USB Test Jigs (used for forcing Samsung Galaxy S phones into downloading mode) - Galaxy S I9000 General

edited for non compliance...

krazykidd said:
edited...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how long until you can ship. i desperately need one. and def dont want to solder lol. let me know asap.

The resistors came in, I'm still waiting on the USB boards to come in. Once they do, I'll solder them (just need to find an iron) and ship them out.
So far I got garyHal, jeremyritzmann, and jotafk on list. One left.
As for the three that ordered, please PM me your preferred methods of shipping so I can factor in the price to bill you over paypal.

If there's any still available, I need one desperately too I'm in australia, but there shouldnt be any custom troubles on either end i think. Thanks

I'll buy one when you're ready. (in the UK btw)

I'm desperatly looking to buy one, if you got any available
Have to be shipped to Norway.

I'm getting a Samsung Epic soon and would like one of these for a just in case thing ,usps priority mail zip is 32539. Pm price and paypal address.
Sent from my HERO200 using XDA App

let me know when i need to paypal you the money

Non compliant under Market Place rules.
Basically, you are fabricating the cables rather than selling your own, used accessories. You manufacture and sell... thus, you are carrying on a business on XDA grounds, which is also not acceptable under General XDA rules.
Thread closed.

For all those wanting to know about the JTAG test jig:
http://factoidz.com/how-to-unbrick-your-samsung-vibrant-galaxy-s/ said:
In the event of a total software brick, meaning that your phone is rendered completely unusable, there is usually only one way to restore it to usable condition: through a JTAG interface. JTAG interfaces are, however, very complicated to create, require very specific knowledge that the average user lacks, and often times can damage your device. Thankfully, Samsung has created an alternate hardware level interface that will force the device into recovery or download mode, allowing the user to flash a new image to his phone. This guide will walk you through the steps of un-bricking your Samsung Vibrant, as well as all other Samsung Galaxy S variants. Materials:
2 micro USB cables of any length.
I recommend these: http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=4867&seq=1&format=2 .
You can get them from a local store if you want, but never pay more than two dollars for a micro USB cable, especially in this case seeing as you are going to rip one apart soon.
A soldering iron.
Not for soldering your phone though, it is for soldering two of the wires in a micro USB cable together.
You can get one of these at a local Radio Shack or home improvement store.
Rosin core solder
Any solder works but rosin core is the easiest to find and its really easy to melt
You can get this at a local Radio Shack or home improvement store.
A 301K ohm resistor
Notice the K. A 301K ohm resistor is different from a 301 ohm resistor!
You can get one of these at a local Radio Shack or from Amazon.com
If you cant find a 301k resistor at Radio Shack, and don’t feel like ordering it, you can just buy 3 100k resistors, and one 1k resistor and solder them together to create a 301K resistor.
Some people will tell you that a 300k resistor will also force a Galaxy S into download mode, but it doesn’t work for everyone, so stick with a 301K.
Wire strippers
Utility knife
Creating the Test Jig:
You will force your Vibrant / Galaxy S variant into download mode by emulating the usb test jig used by Samsung engineers.
Before doing anything. Turn your phone off and let it charge.
If necessary solder the 3 100k resistors and 1k resistor together to make your 301k resistor.
The order you place them in does not matter.
If you bought the 301k resistor disregard this step
Cut one of your Micro USB cables in half, and cut away a section of the sheathing using a utility knife, exposing the five wires within.
Using the wire strippers, remove the insulation of the ends of wires 4 and 5, exposing the copper.
Refer to this image if you do not know which wires 4 and 5 are:
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Solder the 301k resistor across wires 4 and 5, in other words connect them with the resistor.
DO NOT DO THIS WITH THE CHORD PLUGGED INTO YOUR PHONE! THE HEAT CAN DAMAGE IT!
Once the solder is cooled and dry, unplug your Samsung Galaxy S from the charger, and DO NOT TURN IT ON!
Plug the micro USB end of the test jig you just made into the usb port of your Samsung Galaxy S.
Your phone will turn on by itself and boot into recovery mode
Do not turn it on before plugging the jig in or it will not work.
Once it it booted into download mode, flash a rom via ODIN.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Related

I just lengthened my power cord

It's been so annoying having the power cord to be so short. And I don't want to spend like 30 bucks for something longer. So, I just cut it up in half, insert in between 6 feet of cable, and voila! Testing it now. Just saw the power % go from 93 to 94. Woohoo, success!
nice! What cable did you use?
I just use a 6-foot one of these to plug the OEM charger into:
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Cost <$3 and no risk of messing up the OEM cable by splicing it.
smarta** lol jk. You have a good point but I think the object is to have something a little cleaner lol
I have a kazillion adaptors lying around. I just cut the cord from one of those and insert.
The Odom Project said:
smarta** lol jk. You have a good point but I think the object is to have something a little cleaner lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha. What's cleaner than an extension cord? Splicing together multiple cords and covering with electrical tape?
I did something similar. Took an old USB cable, nipped the connector and stripped the cables. Used the ground of the USB cable for the ground on the adapter. I ended up using 3 of the USB cables to get some better gauge on the wire to the + of the adapter. Works great! Put some heat shrink on and it looks awesome.
internetpilot said:
Haha. What's cleaner than an extension cord? Splicing together multiple cords and covering with electrical tape?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But the big black box will be pulled along if you wanna use your iconia while plugged in.
goodintentions said:
But the big black box will be pulled along if you wanna use your iconia while plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pulled along? Are you dancing with A500 while it's plugged in or...? Haha.
Just kidding -- I know what you're saying. And to be honest, Acer has got to be the cheapest bastards in the entire tablet industry for not adding US$0.20 worth of wire to make the the charger an industry standard length. I mean, c'mon...is two feet of wire really that much of a production deal-breaker for them?
But back on your project, personally, I would only do what you did with an extra or maybe 3rd-party charger -- not the OEM one. But that's just me. I'd rather just use the extension cord until a longer, cheap alternative charger is found.
You still get a "Thanks" from me (if for no other reason than tolerating my smart-a$$ remarks)!
Car Charger Cord Extender Combo
I just found this car charger on ebay which contains a very magical 6 foot extension power cable for the iconia
http://cgi.ebay.com/Car-Adapter-Charger-4-Acer-Iconia-Tablet-A500-Android-3-/120755579233?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1d97e961#ht_2744wt_1344
nctrnl said:
I just found this car charger on ebay which contains a very magical 6 foot extension power cable for the iconia
http://cgi.ebay.com/Car-Adapter-Charger-4-Acer-Iconia-Tablet-A500-Android-3-/120755579233?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1d97e961#ht_2744wt_1344
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Way ahead of you. Mine arrived few days ago.
I'm lengthening my power cord right now... okay, hold on... wait...
...
... gimme a sec, I'm a little nervous...
gammaRascal said:
I'm lengthening my power cord right now... okay, hold on... wait...
...
... gimme a sec, I'm a little nervous...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't do it unless you know what you're doing. Can you at least reassure me by telling me how you're connecting the cords?
After market 6' charger
ElectronicCrap.com has a 6' aftermarket charger for$15. This was posted in another thread.
Yoda31 said:
ElectronicCrap.com has a 6' aftermarket charger for$15. This was posted in another thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
here you go
http://electroniccrap.com/store/ind..._id=49&zenid=4ddfd1c939de32e1d19ecde70dbeb634
Sent from my A500 using XDA Premium Appk
Amusing and informative thread!
I've been a hardware hacker for decades now, and I see the value in any successful lengthening of this ridiculously short cord!
internetpilot said:
I just use a 6-foot one of these to plug the OEM charger into:
Cost <$3 and no risk of messing up the OEM cable by splicing it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use this since day 1 just my cost $1 lol.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
nctrnl said:
I just found this car charger on ebay which contains a very magical 6 foot extension power cable for the iconia
http://cgi.ebay.com/Car-Adapter-Charger-4-Acer-Iconia-Tablet-A500-Android-3-/120755579233?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1d97e961#ht_2744wt_1344
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great find! The original charger bought seperately is $14.95 at Walmart, and still only 2 ft. long!
BTW does anyone know if Xoom's charger would work with A500, the plug seems as big as the Acer's?
Does anyone has the exact dimension of the connector ? int/ext diameter ?
Standard one seems to be 0.7mm int and 2.5mm ext, but I have nothing precise enough to confirm
Edit:
as stated by FloatingFatMan, it's 3*1mm connector:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=15102344&postcount=24

Extension Cable for Webtop?

Hey Guys,
I'm kinda afraid that I might break my Webtop's dock or my Atrix while docking/undocking it, plus I would like to keep my phone on the table & not on the dock... So I was wondering if there were Micro-HDMI extension cables, like a:
Micro-HDMI Female to Micro-HDMI Male Cable
&
Micro-USB Female to Micro-USB Male Cable
Thanks...
I also, I need these cables
somebody know where I can buy or make these cables ,,please
dealextreme
your best bet will be deal extreme. I got a micro hdmi female to hdmi female coupler from there. Couldn't find it anywhere else actually.
---------- Post added at 07:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:16 PM ----------
dealextreme.com/p/hdmi-male-to-hdmi-mini-female-adapter-black-41323[/url]
plus
dealextreme.com/p/gold-plated-hdmi-female-to-female-adapter-converter-29363[/url]
plus
dealextreme.com/p/hdmi-male-to-micro-hdmi-male-cable-145cm-length-66080[/url]
will get you the HDMI conversion
I cannot find a combo for the usb
I find it really funny that a thread opened up the same day I had this idea, though there haven't been any new posts since I last checked. I would really like to see something like this, it would be much easier than taking out my atrix out of my otterbox case each time I want to use the webtop.
A while ago I read this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1376679
and the part mentioned:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/hdmi-male-to-micro-hdmi-female-adapter-66079
if coupled with a hdmi female to female piece and the hdmi cable that came with the phone would cover the hdmi part of the proposed extender cable.
I'm having some trouble with finding a good cable with a micro usb female end though
I was thinking... If we took this, ripped it appart and soldered the micro female part to the micro male part on this. Wouldn't it work? Same concept for the micro usb. Plus I looked up mods for the Webdock, and the dock on the back can be taken apart to reveal two separate connectors without ruining anything important...
This guy modded his Webdock to work with the Photon. So I was thinking of just taking it apart like he did in the pictures, and using it like that. Or kinda mod the dock to make it wider so I can use my Atrix with my tpu case...
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I actually followed that and started to take apart my webtop. It's really easy to do so, but the cables are pretty well stuck in their slot, even after taking off the metal bracket thing. Besides, I'm to afraid to heavily modify the device, it's a little too fragile for my tastes. I was thinking of extending the cables out to allow me to attach the atrix in the otterbox, but it would be too risky for me, and it would probably be very flimsy. I'm going to continue to look for cables/adapters to suit my need
micro hdmi male to micro hdmi female
hey guys this is my first post but i found this item and it works on the atrix lapdock pretty cool piece i would include a link bbut i am new but i found this on all4cellulars website
That's what I've been looking for but I wish it was longer. I would use this so I can use my phone as a webcam on my lapdock. Now for a usb version and this would be complete.
http://www.all4cellular.com/micro-hdmi-male-to-female-adapter-type-d.html
Ok, just ordered these from ebay. Hopefully the HDMI is long enough so I can use my phone as a webcam on my Lapdock. If not, will buy another one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/29059482363...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3046wt_1508
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36042990934...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_2333wt_1010
I have experienced that this works on dock very well .
Extension cables for motorola found
Just found these extension cables for atrix2 sure they will work for other motorola phones containing a micro hdmi and micro usb. Someone got smart and paired they items on amazon, I sure for a good markup but after all the hassle of trying to find them I'm good with it.
on amazon search B007RFRHIY
Good luck.

Adding things using the miniPCIExpress. SSD? External GPU???D-rom? Moar?

Hey all,
I had to open up my TPT today to resolder/enforce some points (the dreaded broken power button problem) and was a bit surprised how much room there is to work inside the case. Put me in the hardware modding mood. So....
I know of the work people have done to add WAN cards using the mini PCI express slot that is just sitting there, but my data plan sucks to much to use it heavily. What else comes in mini PCI express that we can play around with? Any ideas? I've only used this slot on a laptop once for a cd-rom, and I know of solid state drives in this format. Or how about this :
http://www.techchee.com/2010/05/26/msis-first-external-graphic-card-for-laptops/
Nice miniPCIe -> whatever adapters for more possibilities:
http://www.hwtools.net/
If anything it could be an easy usb port.
edited: second link addition
There's just something about cracking a case and seeing all that virgin territory that makes me want to start adding in and swapping out, too. I really like the idea of an SSD. Or maybe later I will slug in a wwan card and donate more money towards my cell provider's latest hot, expensive vehicle.
miniPCIe SSDs require a special type of miniPCIe slot. You have to have a SATA compatible version for SATA SSDs, PATA for PATA SSDs. I remember from when I was getting a mPCIe SSD for my dell mini 9.
I doubt android has the drivers for it anyways. The WWAN is probably the only option.
gallahad2000 said:
miniPCIe SSDs require a special type of miniPCIe slot. You have to have a SATA compatible version for SATA SSDs, PATA for PATA SSDs. I remember from when I was getting a mPCIe SSD for my dell mini 9.
I doubt android has the drivers for it anyways. The WWAN is probably the only option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've read that, and I'm not to sure on the rarity of those compatible ports. There weren't any good markings on the board itself. Here's a crop of an image I took for reference:
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Unfortunately I already closed it back up, so sometime later I'll separate the board from the case to inspect the back, or fish around the stock kernel to see if it just so happens to support it already (though I'd be amazed if so). For now I'm trying to scavenge anything that I can plug into this port to start testing with. My touchpad didnt have anything to offer, but I think I have a netbook laying around This USB adapter looks really interesting:
http://www.hwtools.net/Adapter/PM3U.html
But last time I ordered from a site like this, the USB drive didnt fit into any of my ports...
After some more reading, it looks like we'll be fine with the port. Getting the drivers is another issue, but there are SSDs for both mSata and mPCIe. There was even work on the joojoo converting a SSD to support the other protocol. Hopefully my scavenging doesn't end up needing this though.
Edit:
I ended up buying this mPCIe to USB/SATA adapter from amazon. Cheap option so I can start messing with available hardware to see what we can get away with. There were cheaper boards available over seas for ~$3, but I'd prefer to pay the extra money to get it delivered in 3-5 days rather than 14-armageddon days. I ordered a 15 cent usb stick from hong kong that never arrived (though a 10 cent one did!).
Also, there is no 5V pin on the pci specifications. So I'm not sure if my previously linked usb adapter had a circuit off of the 3V or 12V or just gave you either of them raw. If someone ends up buying it I'd check it with a multimeter first. I guess you can tell I'm really wary of these companies.
Updates in a week's shipping!
Anapmac said:
...
Also, there is no 5V pin on the pci specifications. So I'm not sure if my previously linked usb adapter had a circuit off of the 3V or 12V or just gave you either of them raw. If someone ends up buying it I'd check it with a multimeter first. I guess you can tell I'm really wary of these companies.
Updates in a week's shipping!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking at the pictures for the hwtools adapter, it looks like there is a voltage regulator (circled below) on it that probably brings the 12 volts down to 5. The Amazon adapter probably has something similar but I can't see much in the Amazon pictures.

Help finding correct charge port daughter board for Galaxy s5 G900W8

My charge port is busted and I want to replace it but cannot find G900W8 (Canadian model) anywhere.
I read somewhere that I could use the G900T model daughter board.
Can anyone confirm this? Thanks!
you can buy any charge port of any model, it is default from manufacture. ------- Galaxy S5 SM-G900F works aswell like i said.
you can't buy the charger port of Galaxy S5 New Edition because i believe it has different mAh and it has some pieces that does not have on S5 Old edition.
My model is the Canadian version Galaxy S5 - so you're saying I'd be fine no matter what version of the daughter board I buy?
A second question - I've noticed online you can buy just the silver micro-usb port... Would this be an easy fix? Does the port itself pop on and off the motherboard? Or is it hardwired / requiring lots of intricate soldering? If it pops on and off just like the flex cables do onto existing pins, then that seems like a much better solution - but I can't tell without taking the whole thing apart and no one discusses this as an option online - they all talk about replacing the daughter board.
No.....it won't be fine.....this is something I know about....having had experience of this issue on a number of Samsung devices.....
You *do* need to match the board physically.....but not only that, you need to match the REV (revision) number from your existing board to the one you buy....
There will likely be a number of older/newer versions of the board, and in my experience they are NOT interchangeable.....
And as for replacing just the socket, this is something I have considered attempting in the past....but the simple truth is that the connectors are just too small to accurately hand solder....You'd need a very low power soldering iron with a needle point tip and a rock steady hand.
You'd also need a lighted magnifying glass to enable you to actually see what you were doing.
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg
keithross39 said:
No.....it won't be fine.....this is something I know about....having had experience of this issue on a number of Samsung devices.....
You *do* need to match the board physically.....but not only that, you need to match the REV (revision) number from your existing board to the one you buy....
There will likely be a number of older/newer versions of the board, and in my experience they are NOT interchangeable.....
And as for replacing just the socket, this is something I have considered attempting in the past....but the simple truth is that the connectors are just too small to accurately hand solder....You'd need a very low power soldering iron with a needle point tip and a rock steady hand.
You'd also need a lighted magnifying glass to enable you to actually see what you were doing.
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
in fact i believe they are default.
only matching the revision number. if you find an recent revision, that's fine. only not buying an old revision.
only what changes is the modem country code.
scott487 said:
My model is the Canadian version Galaxy S5 - so you're saying I'd be fine no matter what version of the daughter board I buy?
A second question - I've noticed online you can buy just the silver micro-usb port... Would this be an easy fix? Does the port itself pop on and off the motherboard? Or is it hardwired / requiring lots of intricate soldering? If it pops on and off just like the flex cables do onto existing pins, then that seems like a much better solution - but I can't tell without taking the whole thing apart and no one discusses this as an option online - they all talk about replacing the daughter board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
to change the usb port, you will need an soldering iron; 30w will be enough to do the work.
and experience how to solder.
keithross39 said:
No.....it won't be fine.....this is something I know about....having had experience of this issue on a number of Samsung devices.....
You *do* need to match the board physically.....but not only that, you need to match the REV (revision) number from your existing board to the one you buy....
There will likely be a number of older/newer versions of the board, and in my experience they are NOT interchangeable.....
And as for replacing just the socket, this is something I have considered attempting in the past....but the simple truth is that the connectors are just too small to accurately hand solder....You'd need a very low power soldering iron with a needle point tip and a rock steady hand.
You'd also need a lighted magnifying glass to enable you to actually see what you were doing.
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks - But I'm wondering what you think of this posting: http://forums.androidcentral.com/sa...0w8-charging-port-flex-cable-replacement.html
It's saying that Canadians (G900W8) should use the T version. That's what I'm hoping to confirm. Because I cannot find the G900W8 version online anywhere.
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@DBlackFireD There is simply no way of accurately soldering these contacts.....
I have all the practical hand soldering experience you can think of.....it can't be done.....There is a reason that these boards are assembled on automated production lines, and that is that computer controlled robots do not have shaky hands. If you try to hand solder the socket, you WILL end up causing other damage.
@scott487 I understand that the W8 board may be hard to find.....it might well be the case that the board for the T variant is compatible....I had a look at the thread you linked to, and I noticed the lack of feedback as to whether it worked or not...
If it were me, I'd still try to source the W8 board, and keep the T board in mind as a last resort.
With regards to what has been said about the REV versions of replacement boards.....
There may be some truth about newer replacements being reverse compatible with older originals....but doing things the other way around *definitely will not* work.....
And getting the wrong REV version has been known to break functionality on other Samsung phones.......things like data transfer, signal strength etc; so these boards are NOT generic/default....
I still maintain that replacing your existing board with one that has an identical REV number should be considered as a first resort......
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg

FPC Battery Connector for main logic board

Hi guys, is there anywhere I can get a fpc battery terminal for the logic board as per image attached? one of the brass prongs got caught in the battery and pinged off to my horror!
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Gutted is an understatement!
@turbotux If it's *just* the connector you want, and you're happy/able to solder it to the board, you can get it here.....
http://www.fonejoy.com/genuine-sams...edge-j1-j5-battery-connector-3711-008737.html
I personally wouldn't touch a hand soldering job like that, and I have been regularly using a soldering iron on all sorts of kit for over 20 years. The connectors are invariably microscopic and the potential to cause other, accidental damage is too high.
But if you want to try it....fair play and good luck (I think you'll need it).
Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.
keithross39 said:
Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.
turbotux said:
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.
Click to expand...
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Yeah....you have a broken phone right now so why not try it? Just be *REAL* careful....There are a number of surface mounted components in close proximity to your work area....
Damaging them through accidental contact with the soldering iron (or even simple heat transfer along the board) is a BIG possibility....
---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ----------
One final bit of advice (though you probably already know this) 'tin' or coat the solder points on the new part before going near the board. It'll help minimise the length of time the iron is in contact with the board.
I have a soldering iron with a 'home modified' reversable tip. You can see in the picture, at one end is the standard 4mm tip while at the other is a 1mm tip that tapers down to practically a needle point. This is the end that sees the most use, and it is that size of tip that you're going to need.
Just to update, I managed to solder it and it still did not work unfortunely so I've bought another n910f handset, these things happen. However the cause of this I think is down to the extended battery I had pulling on the whole module, I'm going to be running the stock batteries I have from now on.
A worthy purchase however is the extended battery I've picked up for those long cycle rides which should easily see me through, for interest its a 14000mAh Logic3 which I picked up from Maplin for around £40 and compared to its 30000mAh Chinese predecessor it totally kicks ass.
A expensive lesson learned here....
I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.
keithross39 said:
I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.
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Yeah the safe approach, I'm going down this route also, thanks for all your help
Yeah....It also minimises wear on the micro usb socket built into the phone...which is one big weak point on these devices.

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