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having trouble replacing touch matrix... need help, pictures included

so my touch matrix cracked, got a replacement on ebay that looks perfect. i got it to work but everytime a do, a few days later it stops working until i fix it again. i can't seem to figure out how the flexible PCB connects to the back of the LCD module. it looks like HTC just puts a piece of tape over it.
however, i noticed when taking off the old LCD touch matrix that there was some sort of possibly conductive adhesive that made it very difficult to pull off. i got it off but one of the contacts got stuck on there and it i had to scrape it off with a scalpel.
see picture below for exact details. if anyone has any experience in doing this and getting it to work, please let me know, it's so frustrating not having touch on this phone.
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I think you might need to have that professionally repaired. I used to refurbish phones for Motorola but I've never taken anything this advanced apart before. It sounds like you shouldn't have scraped off that conductive adhesive. The digitizer you bought should have been a relatively simple installation but you should have taken your time peeling off the old cracked digitizer. That adhesive is pretty strong and thats why they use it.
You might want to look into getting your hands on some of that adhesive and just replace it all. Sometimes the oils from your skin from handling such a sensitive ribbon cable could have damaged it as well.
P.S. Unfortunately, most of the people here are software genius's, not hardware experts unfortunately.

it's not too advanced. i figure if they at least offer the part as a replacement option on ebay it can't be too hard. and in the mass view, it's only 4 contacts and relatively easy to replace if you have a minor knowledge of electronics.
i keep taping it down firmly and even putting extra tape on top so that the pressure of the case will press down on the pcb to have a firmer connection.
note: i was very careful to observe ESD precautions, so that isn't it, plus there's no semiconductors that could be damaged in the touch matrix.

dudah85 said:
it's not too advanced. i figure if they at least offer the part as a replacement option on ebay it can't be too hard. and in the mass view, it's only 4 contacts and relatively easy to replace if you have a minor knowledge of electronics.
i keep taping it down firmly and even putting extra tape on top so that the pressure of the case will press down on the pcb to have a firmer connection.
note: i was very careful to observe ESD precautions, so that isn't it, plus there's no semiconductors that could be damaged in the touch matrix.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm... have you tried good old fashion superglue? I mean not neccesarily putting it on the end of the cable where the conductors are, but on the cable right near the conductors to keep it from moving around and then placing a few strips of tape to sandwich the cable with the housing pressing it down tight?

yes i have but i fear what happens if when pressing it down if it gets on the pads, then i'm just totally screwed. it's a tough situation, i wish there was a contact at HTC that could tell me how it's done.
i'm going to also try contacting their support/repair office and see if they can provide any insight.

dudah85 said:
yes i have but i fear what happens if when pressing it down if it gets on the pads, then i'm just totally screwed. it's a tough situation, i wish there was a contact at HTC that could tell me how it's done.
i'm going to also try contacting their support/repair office and see if they can provide any insight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The superglue option is very risky but it could save your @$$ if you only put very little on the ribbon and then hold it in place untill it dries and then press down once the glue is already dry.
On another note, contacting their support office would probably be your best bet.
Everything you have done, even though not done wrong, it a far greater risk than I would have ever taken... I would have sent it in to be repaired of the digitizer had a crack in it or or the dot matrix got scratched. But thats me.
Unfortunately there aren't too many technicians here on this forum since it is almost completely firmware and not hardware here... Then again, there might be a few. Where I live it's kinda late at night so maybe they're sleeping or something. Lol.

i'm neither a hardware nor a software expertm but i may be able to help... i saw the manual somewhere... www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf... try that... maybe it'll help you...

Securing a PCB

I'm planning to make a controller this summer, but the PCB I'm using is a lot smaller than the case I need to use. How do I secure the PCB so it isn't flopping everywhere?

Me, I'd just use hot glue because I have a gun right here.

I have a hot glue gun, too; would that hold it down securely enough? It's a fightstick, it'll get bashed around a lot. A bit rough.

If the PCB has mounting holes you can use screws through the case, a standoff or spacer and a nut.
If you want, you can countersink the case for flat head screws.
If you don't want any holes in the case at all, you can use one of my new favorite pieces of hardware, a "round base T-nut".
Glue the base to the inside of the case with epoxy and mount the PCB with screws.
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No mounting holes in it, sadly. If it helps, it's a 360 controller mobo.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app

obsidianchao said:
If it helps, it's a 360 controller mobo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that does help.
I would buy some rubber grommets that fit the two holes on the pointy ends and the two slots at the top.
I'd glue in (4) 1/4-20 T-nuts, use a flat washer underneath and a bolt on top of the grommet.
Shock mount and everything.

Oh, wow, that's perfect. Thanks!
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app

Double sided Foam Tape, or even Better Servo Tape
Servo tape is used to hold Down Servos in RC Cars, Planes, helicopters etc.

You've got me thinking, obsidianchao.
I can get a wired Xbox 360 controller at Family Dollar for $11.
I'm not sure if they implement the whole deal, but 11 switch inputs, 2 joysticks,
a headset interface and a UART would be a great deal.
I'm sure that the switches and things are not the best quality, but I wouldn't be reusing them.
Hmm...

Hot glue
Hot glue is the best idea...

I agree with the above posts that suggest the screws in the pcb and then to the box. It is likely not entirely a feasible solution if you have a pcb without holes for starters. I have no idea what your project details are to know whether or not to suggest to you drilling or punching holes in yourself (if that is the route you choose to take for securing that is)
I am highly against hot glue just because it firstly gives and no offense to anyone or their suggestion, just a messy quick solution which I again not knowing what you are working on or how much neatness and whatever matters to you. I have a particular way with doing stuff as neat and clean as possible in regard to stuff like electronics work but that is just me and not trying to be rude but the main glaring issue I have with the hot glue idea is the potential for the heat from the glue or gun to alter or damage the project board like if you have things on the pcb that could be compromised by overheating and what not. Nevermind potentially damaging via warping the PCB itself which can cause a potential project-in-the-can situation if you get me... and if you choose to glob tons of the stuff on the bottom of your project or however and stick it in, sure it will be stuck to the project box but I would say have a DMM handi to check values of circuits or damage/warping unless this is really not that serious of a project for things like neatness to matter.
I have to say that the double sided tape is a nice middle of the road idea that does not really compromise anything unless it is placed over any components that can and do radiate heat like if it is a power supply style project or things that could cause a melting of tape in places and potential icky smells to emanate from the project box
Though I probably caused some more confusion with my excessive analysis of the main suggestions, I hope it helped shed a bit of light on the potential dangers or things to look out for with whatever methods as to not ruin your hard work or compromise it. Just sayin..:good: :laugh:

I ended up buying a controller. It was on sale for $6.60, an XBox wired controller.
Not being a gamer I hadn't realized that XBox came in two flavors.
I took out the original cord and put in a USB cord.
It appears as a 3 port hub, with a vendor specific on the first port.
The other two ports are the "memory modules" and I may wire up regular USB sockets to that.
I'll have to find a driver for it.

[How to] Repair the LCD cable clamp you broke while replacing the digitizer

I am certain that I'm getting the post syntax incorrect, let me know and I'll adjust it.
Anywho, I found out too late that when removing the black goo from the LCD's flex cable, you need to:
1. Heat it gently
2. Pull the goo from the INSIDE EDGE to the OUTSIDE EDGE.
3. Not break that paper-thin, fragile, incredibly tiny sliver of plastic that is the difference between an LCD that will turn on and an LCD that will not!
So, I managed to do none of these things. I went ahead and replaced the digitizer and tried various (failed) methods of mitigating the damage I had wrought, finding no help on the internet, only commiseration.
Tonight I had a flash of inspiration, and what the heck, it worked. I carefully used a needle to separate the tiny wire tips protruding from the clamp (my poorly-considered sideways goo-removal bent a few until they touched each other) while wishing I had a microscope, then I prepared a short length of PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW, folded it in half lengthwise ("long-ways"), and gingerly placed it beneath the overlying digitizer cable so that it compressed the LCD cable against the contacts beneath. I put the phone back together, and here I am today.
Now, I probably should have laid a bit of tape over this so that it won't shake free. I'll wait until it shakes free to do that, then report back.
I fully expect this post to elicit discussion of the dozen ways in which to better achieve this repair, and why my method is the worst of the bunch.
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I guess yours isn't the worst fix!
moktarino said:
I am certain that I'm getting the post syntax incorrect, let me know and I'll adjust it.
Anywho, I found out too late that when removing the black goo from the LCD's flex cable, you need to:
1. Heat it gently
2. Pull the goo from the INSIDE EDGE to the OUTSIDE EDGE.
3. Not break that paper-thin, fragile, incredibly tiny sliver of plastic that is the difference between an LCD that will turn on and an LCD that will not!
So, I managed to do none of these things. I went ahead and replaced the digitizer and tried various (failed) methods of mitigating the damage I had wrought, finding no help on the internet, only commiseration.
Tonight I had a flash of inspiration, and what the heck, it worked. I carefully used a needle to separate the tiny wire tips protruding from the clamp (my poorly-considered sideways goo-removal bent a few until they touched each other) while wishing I had a microscope, then I prepared a short length of PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW, folded it in half lengthwise ("long-ways"), and gingerly placed it beneath the overlying digitizer cable so that it compressed the LCD cable against the contacts beneath. I put the phone back together, and here I am today.
Now, I probably should have laid a bit of tape over this so that it won't shake free. I'll wait until it shakes free to do that, then report back.
I fully expect this post to elicit discussion of the dozen ways in which to better achieve this repair, and why my method is the worst of the bunch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently, it's not such a bad idea after all! I'm just wondering how to adapt it to work on an EVO 4G. There's no ribbon to put it underneath, but I get the idea... one would think those incredibly thin/weak plastic clamps (which should be relatively simple to replace) could be purchases for 10 to 100 times what they are worth (say, $3USD?) and problem solved. I put an HD2 screen in an EVO 4G, worked fine, until I didn't glue it in properly, and it popped out. My g/f brought it back to me, saying that I needed to fix it right! I went back in, and that damned wide flex ribbon cable, just the angle I was at, along with my son jumping about the table I was working at, I inadvertently broke that clamp, in three pieces! Damned frustrating too! I gotta get me a dedicated desk for my PC/CELL/TV repairs... with lights, magnifying glass, and a locked door...

Well folks, I have outdone myself today. I was digging through my old tech to harvest the buzzer motor out of an old Boost Mobile Motorola i425 phone. After ripping it apart for the motor, I decided to pick through the rest of the parts to see if there was anything worth keeping (I bet you know where I'm going with this by now), and after harvesting the speakers, I noticed that the LCD cable looked suspiciously similar to the one on my poor Droid X.
3 hours later, I have fully repaired my Droid X. It was pretty tricky though, but I discovered that if you bend the metal bits at either end of the connector down, you can slide the clamp in and then bend them back upright.
Parts reuse FTW! Thanks Motorola! i425's are apparently $5 on eBay now, btw.

You saved my life (and the one from my Sensation). Such a simple and working idea! Thanks!

Will Defy still be water-proof without the usb cover?

Usb cover is loosing badly, it's so easy to open it
I searched this and found out that this is a common issue,
but I'm wondering if the phone will remain water-proof with this condition?
I found a defy tear down post in a China forum, in the post he mentioned: (see also the attach pic below)
Defy's usb connector is an isolated unit which is produced with a water-proof process,
so it is actually no problem with the cover opened in water.
The cover is just to prevent a short circuit when expose to water.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://bbs.gfan.com/android-287841-1-1.html
So now I'm totally confused.
Will Defy still be water-proof without the usb cover?
And, did anyone here tested your defy underwater with the cover opened?

I wouldn't really bet on it, mate If someone has tested the theory, though, please let us know what were the results

I don't think because the USB pins can be short circuited due to water
I don't want a Tapatalk sig!

it's logical ... but today I discovered little wet spot in usb connector ... but still works... :angel:
so we need some conformation about this ...:crying:

deffyplus said:
it's logical ... but today I discovered little wet spot in usb connector ... but still works... :angel:
so we need some conformation about this ...:crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ionize that water and put it in your USB
Lol don't do that!
I don't want a Tapatalk sig!

Unlikely!
I'd say without the cover the phone will very likely allow water in through the USB port - take a look at the charge socket and note the square holes on the left and right sides of the metal connector.... now take a look at a dismantled Defy and it clearly shows that through these holes water would then go onto the main PCB
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The short answer would be no.
It may still be fairly water resistant compared to other phones, but the cover is there for a reason.
Wouldn't go dunking it any time soon

No! It will not be waterproof w/o usb cover.

I appreciate the answers and opinions, and I would like this to grow into a larger debate ...
Again going back to the Chinese forum...There is a picture that explains why can not agree with that usb is not attached to matherboard...cover is all about mud, dust, serious conditions which may be subject to phone ...
p.s. It is my opinion...?? What do you think??

deffyplus said:
I appreciate the answers and opinions, and I would like this to grow into a larger debate ...
Again going back to the Chinese forum...There is a picture that explains why can not agree with that usb is not attached to matherboard...cover is all about mud, dust, serious conditions which may be subject to phone ...
p.s. It is my opinion...?? What do you think??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Clearly the Chinese picture you show is different to the Defy 525 / Defy+526 which as my image shows has the USB port soldered directly to the circuit board. The socket looks like it's in the other side of the board as well.... the Defy we know has the socket to the right of the SIM as shown in my picture, your picture shows the socket directly next to the SIM socket. It would make sense to have a seperate USB port that plugs in because these sockets wear out and need replacing and a plug on socket is easy to replace whereas the soldered socket might even damage the circuit board if knocked hard.
So the answer is still that the version with directly soldered socket will let water inside the phone without a cover.... I have no idea about the version your picture shows... I suspect it would be much more water resistant as it'll be a solid block no doubt.

Defy isn't fully waterproof, it's rather water resistant. My friend killed his defy by testing this so beware, espesially without usb or microphone cover.

our zepagoal
not recommended without the plug! and i dont get why anyone would bother!

Z3C wireless charging achieved

Hey all,
I got this idea from someone else here, but I couldnt find the thread again to post this there.
My wife wanted a tough case, but she didn't want to have to use the USB port to charge. She had read, and she felt that the flap over the USB was too fragile.
So I decided to mod her Qi Charging.
We got her this case:
(too new can't post links)
and I got these things for the mod:
(too new can't post links)
I used a small piece of card paper (that came with the charger) I measured and drew out the design on the card, then I used the copper tape to make the contacts. I used two unbroken stips.
I used two small rolled up bits of copper tape to push the points out a little.
then I cut the wire off the charger and peeled back the shielding.
It turns out that there is some unshielded copper right under the thick part of the wire.
I did two very basic solders right to the tape, lined it up in the case and presto! Qi charging.
I did all the copper runs under the charger to prevent interference.
See pics for more detail.
If you have any questions I would be happy to help.
Sorry about the size of the photos.
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Nice work
What are the charge times like?
Also you can post links by putting a space before the .com i am pretty sure, doesnt make it a hyperlink though.

nzzane said:
Nice work
What are the charge times like?
Also you can post links by putting a space before the .com i am pretty sure, doesn't make it a hyperlink though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just finished today so I can't say much about the charge times. The multi-meter I used was showing about 5-7 watts so I would guess that charging time should be about the same too a little slower than standard USB.
Here are the links with the space before the ".com"
http://smile.amazon .com/gp/product/B00HI8JYFE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
http://smile.amazon .com/gp/product/B00EY44I42?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
don't be fooled by the listing the copper tape does NOT have Conductive Adhesive... at least not good enough to trust.

Very interesting. I didn't thought that the module could be so slim you can probably put it between your case and the phone without changing the thickness.
My rear glass is already broken, maybe I'll think about an internal soldering.
This module :
http://www.trait-tech.com/product/T-SAM-7226B__new-arrivedultra-slim-qi-wireless-charging-receiver-module-for-most-phone-with-micro-usb-interface-bottom-left-and-inward-of-micro-usb-interface.html
seems better to avoid interferences.

nzzane said:
Nice work
What are the charge times like?
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Simple.
Technical details of that QI receiver:
Output: 5V /500mA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Z3C Battery is 2600mAh.
Therefore you can say, that a full charge takes a bit more than 5 hours.

flamand
I'm looking forward to trying this. However, I don't understand one thing: how are the contacts that match up to the magnetic thing on the side of the phone connected to the wireless charger receiver? Do the two long strips of copper under the receiver connect up to the two short strips that make contact with the phone?

This is very nice, gotta try it sometime! Also, what case are you using?

Did it too, thanks for the thread.
My back glass was already broken so I had nothing to loose.
I installed the devilcase aluminum bump and the leather back they gave is pretty convenient to hide the glass.
I do not think you can achieve that with a pristine glass because the result is very slightly cambered, I don't notice it on a daily basis.
Here are the pics :

Waterproofness?
VERY NICE, been looking for something like this!
my question is how this fairs in waterproofness. is the QI receiver module waterproof?