My charge port is busted and I want to replace it but cannot find G900W8 (Canadian model) anywhere.
I read somewhere that I could use the G900T model daughter board.
Can anyone confirm this? Thanks!
you can buy any charge port of any model, it is default from manufacture. ------- Galaxy S5 SM-G900F works aswell like i said.
you can't buy the charger port of Galaxy S5 New Edition because i believe it has different mAh and it has some pieces that does not have on S5 Old edition.
My model is the Canadian version Galaxy S5 - so you're saying I'd be fine no matter what version of the daughter board I buy?
A second question - I've noticed online you can buy just the silver micro-usb port... Would this be an easy fix? Does the port itself pop on and off the motherboard? Or is it hardwired / requiring lots of intricate soldering? If it pops on and off just like the flex cables do onto existing pins, then that seems like a much better solution - but I can't tell without taking the whole thing apart and no one discusses this as an option online - they all talk about replacing the daughter board.
No.....it won't be fine.....this is something I know about....having had experience of this issue on a number of Samsung devices.....
You *do* need to match the board physically.....but not only that, you need to match the REV (revision) number from your existing board to the one you buy....
There will likely be a number of older/newer versions of the board, and in my experience they are NOT interchangeable.....
And as for replacing just the socket, this is something I have considered attempting in the past....but the simple truth is that the connectors are just too small to accurately hand solder....You'd need a very low power soldering iron with a needle point tip and a rock steady hand.
You'd also need a lighted magnifying glass to enable you to actually see what you were doing.
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg
keithross39 said:
No.....it won't be fine.....this is something I know about....having had experience of this issue on a number of Samsung devices.....
You *do* need to match the board physically.....but not only that, you need to match the REV (revision) number from your existing board to the one you buy....
There will likely be a number of older/newer versions of the board, and in my experience they are NOT interchangeable.....
And as for replacing just the socket, this is something I have considered attempting in the past....but the simple truth is that the connectors are just too small to accurately hand solder....You'd need a very low power soldering iron with a needle point tip and a rock steady hand.
You'd also need a lighted magnifying glass to enable you to actually see what you were doing.
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
in fact i believe they are default.
only matching the revision number. if you find an recent revision, that's fine. only not buying an old revision.
only what changes is the modem country code.
scott487 said:
My model is the Canadian version Galaxy S5 - so you're saying I'd be fine no matter what version of the daughter board I buy?
A second question - I've noticed online you can buy just the silver micro-usb port... Would this be an easy fix? Does the port itself pop on and off the motherboard? Or is it hardwired / requiring lots of intricate soldering? If it pops on and off just like the flex cables do onto existing pins, then that seems like a much better solution - but I can't tell without taking the whole thing apart and no one discusses this as an option online - they all talk about replacing the daughter board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
to change the usb port, you will need an soldering iron; 30w will be enough to do the work.
and experience how to solder.
keithross39 said:
No.....it won't be fine.....this is something I know about....having had experience of this issue on a number of Samsung devices.....
You *do* need to match the board physically.....but not only that, you need to match the REV (revision) number from your existing board to the one you buy....
There will likely be a number of older/newer versions of the board, and in my experience they are NOT interchangeable.....
And as for replacing just the socket, this is something I have considered attempting in the past....but the simple truth is that the connectors are just too small to accurately hand solder....You'd need a very low power soldering iron with a needle point tip and a rock steady hand.
You'd also need a lighted magnifying glass to enable you to actually see what you were doing.
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks - But I'm wondering what you think of this posting: http://forums.androidcentral.com/sa...0w8-charging-port-flex-cable-replacement.html
It's saying that Canadians (G900W8) should use the T version. That's what I'm hoping to confirm. Because I cannot find the G900W8 version online anywhere.
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@DBlackFireD There is simply no way of accurately soldering these contacts.....
I have all the practical hand soldering experience you can think of.....it can't be done.....There is a reason that these boards are assembled on automated production lines, and that is that computer controlled robots do not have shaky hands. If you try to hand solder the socket, you WILL end up causing other damage.
@scott487 I understand that the W8 board may be hard to find.....it might well be the case that the board for the T variant is compatible....I had a look at the thread you linked to, and I noticed the lack of feedback as to whether it worked or not...
If it were me, I'd still try to source the W8 board, and keep the T board in mind as a last resort.
With regards to what has been said about the REV versions of replacement boards.....
There may be some truth about newer replacements being reverse compatible with older originals....but doing things the other way around *definitely will not* work.....
And getting the wrong REV version has been known to break functionality on other Samsung phones.......things like data transfer, signal strength etc; so these boards are NOT generic/default....
I still maintain that replacing your existing board with one that has an identical REV number should be considered as a first resort......
http://i.imgur.com/rVnFwJM.jpg
Related
so my touch matrix cracked, got a replacement on ebay that looks perfect. i got it to work but everytime a do, a few days later it stops working until i fix it again. i can't seem to figure out how the flexible PCB connects to the back of the LCD module. it looks like HTC just puts a piece of tape over it.
however, i noticed when taking off the old LCD touch matrix that there was some sort of possibly conductive adhesive that made it very difficult to pull off. i got it off but one of the contacts got stuck on there and it i had to scrape it off with a scalpel.
see picture below for exact details. if anyone has any experience in doing this and getting it to work, please let me know, it's so frustrating not having touch on this phone.
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I think you might need to have that professionally repaired. I used to refurbish phones for Motorola but I've never taken anything this advanced apart before. It sounds like you shouldn't have scraped off that conductive adhesive. The digitizer you bought should have been a relatively simple installation but you should have taken your time peeling off the old cracked digitizer. That adhesive is pretty strong and thats why they use it.
You might want to look into getting your hands on some of that adhesive and just replace it all. Sometimes the oils from your skin from handling such a sensitive ribbon cable could have damaged it as well.
P.S. Unfortunately, most of the people here are software genius's, not hardware experts unfortunately.
it's not too advanced. i figure if they at least offer the part as a replacement option on ebay it can't be too hard. and in the mass view, it's only 4 contacts and relatively easy to replace if you have a minor knowledge of electronics.
i keep taping it down firmly and even putting extra tape on top so that the pressure of the case will press down on the pcb to have a firmer connection.
note: i was very careful to observe ESD precautions, so that isn't it, plus there's no semiconductors that could be damaged in the touch matrix.
dudah85 said:
it's not too advanced. i figure if they at least offer the part as a replacement option on ebay it can't be too hard. and in the mass view, it's only 4 contacts and relatively easy to replace if you have a minor knowledge of electronics.
i keep taping it down firmly and even putting extra tape on top so that the pressure of the case will press down on the pcb to have a firmer connection.
note: i was very careful to observe ESD precautions, so that isn't it, plus there's no semiconductors that could be damaged in the touch matrix.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm... have you tried good old fashion superglue? I mean not neccesarily putting it on the end of the cable where the conductors are, but on the cable right near the conductors to keep it from moving around and then placing a few strips of tape to sandwich the cable with the housing pressing it down tight?
yes i have but i fear what happens if when pressing it down if it gets on the pads, then i'm just totally screwed. it's a tough situation, i wish there was a contact at HTC that could tell me how it's done.
i'm going to also try contacting their support/repair office and see if they can provide any insight.
dudah85 said:
yes i have but i fear what happens if when pressing it down if it gets on the pads, then i'm just totally screwed. it's a tough situation, i wish there was a contact at HTC that could tell me how it's done.
i'm going to also try contacting their support/repair office and see if they can provide any insight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The superglue option is very risky but it could save your @$$ if you only put very little on the ribbon and then hold it in place untill it dries and then press down once the glue is already dry.
On another note, contacting their support office would probably be your best bet.
Everything you have done, even though not done wrong, it a far greater risk than I would have ever taken... I would have sent it in to be repaired of the digitizer had a crack in it or or the dot matrix got scratched. But thats me.
Unfortunately there aren't too many technicians here on this forum since it is almost completely firmware and not hardware here... Then again, there might be a few. Where I live it's kinda late at night so maybe they're sleeping or something. Lol.
i'm neither a hardware nor a software expertm but i may be able to help... i saw the manual somewhere... www.mdatweak.com/downloads/Wizard_Service_Manual.pdf... try that... maybe it'll help you...
Before I get started, I already know that AT&T and TMobile are using different UMTS bands and that's why the G1 won't work on AT&T's 3G network. I've read many threads on this topic.
But...
I saw this...
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...in another thread and it really got me wondering. The two Avago chips seem to control the frequecy used. What if one were to replace the ACMP-7381 with an ACMP-7331-TR1 and also replace the ACMP-7391 with an ACMP-7311-TR1? I checked the datasheets (available on the Avago website) and they all seem to be pin compatible.
Would I be willing to try it? Ummm... I don't know! I'm just curious if anybody else has any thoughts or comments?
So you want to carefully unsolder the chip and solder another, then pray it doesn't cause some problems with the logic circuit and finally spend lots of time messing with the phones firmware. Just to get 3G speeds where you already can get edge speeds.
If you want to do it as a project to see if you can, then I say cool, but if you are doing this just for 3G speeds on the AT&T network, then I think it's pointless, especially with the massive 3G rollouts T-Mobile is now doing.
i will post photos of the Canadian htc dream circuit board in a few hours.
I am VERY interested! I had my G1 on at&t with EDGE but finally switched to T-mobile for 3G with unimpressive results. I would be hesitant to try since Ive never messed with these components but I was able to do the LED soldering mod to my Samsung and Nokia back in the day and made a few circuit boards in school. I definitely think I could physically complete the hardware swap its just what happens next that Im worried about. lol
What if the component your swapping has a different Ω rating? This could undervolt or even worse burn out other components. Now were talking about adding resistors or possibly removing other ones already exsisting on the board. Not to mention that this board is SMT (surface mount), meaning there aren't any solder points on the bottom and the components don't have pins unless they are heavy and then they are only little plastic stabilizers.
You're looking at much more cost and hassle than it's probably worth.
Also, would the stock antenna work with the different frequency?
crapy pics
THE ONE WITH THE BLUE DOT IS THE ROGERS DREAM (the other one is t-mobile G1)
sorry that i didn't have a good camera but i tried..
gallery:
http://img26.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=1000387n.jpg
direct links:
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/2493/1000387n.jpg
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/1443/1000391xhu.jpg
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/5339/1000392.jpg
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/6840/1000395k.jpg
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/2313/1000403h.jpg
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/1760/1000409k.jpg
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/434/1000410o.jpg
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/2037/1000411x.jpg
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/2975/1000412jlh.jpg
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/5475/1000413u.jpg
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/2125/1000414w.jpg
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/449/1000415.jpg
http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/3241/1000417i.jpg
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/6424/1000420v.jpg
SiXiam said:
If you want to do it as a project to see if you can, then I say cool, but if you are doing this just for 3G speeds on the AT&T network, then I think it's pointless, especially with the massive 3G rollouts T-Mobile is now doing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah... I guess I'm just a tinkerer at heart! I'm really not that unhappy with edge speeds most of the time.
aggtrfrad said:
i will post photos of the Canadian htc dream circuit board in a few hours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
woot! Very interested to see those photos. Doh! Posted them at the same time I replied!!
SiXiam said:
What if the component your swapping has a different Ω rating? This could undervolt or even worse burn out other components. Now were talking about adding resistors or possibly removing other ones already exsisting on the board. Not to mention that this board is SMT (surface mount), meaning there aren't any solder points on the bottom and the components don't have pins unless they are heavy and then they are only little plastic stabilizers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I come from a computer engineering background. I know all about surface mount components and how difficult soldering can be. I could pour over the datasheets a bit more if I decide to pursue this any further and even speak to a rep from Avago. I'm more concerned about the software at this point. I'm wondering if I would need to make firmware changes?
breaultm said:
You're looking at much more cost and hassle than it's probably worth.
Also, would the stock antenna work with the different frequency?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't know about the antenna, but I doubt the cost of those two ICs is gonna break the bank. Ya know?
Thanks for the replies... Anybody have any thoughts on the firmware?
aggtrfrad said:
THE ONE WITH THE BLUE DOT IS THE ROGERS DREAM (the other one is t-mobile G1)
sorry that i didn't have a good camera but i tried..
gallery:
http://img26.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=1000387n.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BOOYAH!! See, it's right there! Those two small ICs in the upper left-hand corner: Avago 7311 and Avago 7331!
Ok, so I compared the two boards a little closer. The board itself appears to be the same. The two Avago chips are the same as I originally suggested. However, several of the smaller resistors and/or capacitors appear to be different. I bet this mod is theoretically possible, but it's probably more trouble than it's worth.
wow hmmm tell me if it works if you solder it right
i too have been thinking about this, but i am not gonna take apart the G1 again, it was enough of a hassle keeping that damn void sticker from breaking. i have a few phones that are compatible on ATT 3G and t-mobile 3G and thought about switching the cips, but i don't think i am up for the challenge. my 8525 has been apart for almost a year and a half now and i lost most of the screws so it's in a box waiting for me to come up with some project for the parts
edited for non compliance...
krazykidd said:
edited...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how long until you can ship. i desperately need one. and def dont want to solder lol. let me know asap.
The resistors came in, I'm still waiting on the USB boards to come in. Once they do, I'll solder them (just need to find an iron) and ship them out.
So far I got garyHal, jeremyritzmann, and jotafk on list. One left.
As for the three that ordered, please PM me your preferred methods of shipping so I can factor in the price to bill you over paypal.
If there's any still available, I need one desperately too I'm in australia, but there shouldnt be any custom troubles on either end i think. Thanks
I'll buy one when you're ready. (in the UK btw)
I'm desperatly looking to buy one, if you got any available
Have to be shipped to Norway.
I'm getting a Samsung Epic soon and would like one of these for a just in case thing ,usps priority mail zip is 32539. Pm price and paypal address.
Sent from my HERO200 using XDA App
let me know when i need to paypal you the money
Non compliant under Market Place rules.
Basically, you are fabricating the cables rather than selling your own, used accessories. You manufacture and sell... thus, you are carrying on a business on XDA grounds, which is also not acceptable under General XDA rules.
Thread closed.
For all those wanting to know about the JTAG test jig:
http://factoidz.com/how-to-unbrick-your-samsung-vibrant-galaxy-s/ said:
In the event of a total software brick, meaning that your phone is rendered completely unusable, there is usually only one way to restore it to usable condition: through a JTAG interface. JTAG interfaces are, however, very complicated to create, require very specific knowledge that the average user lacks, and often times can damage your device. Thankfully, Samsung has created an alternate hardware level interface that will force the device into recovery or download mode, allowing the user to flash a new image to his phone. This guide will walk you through the steps of un-bricking your Samsung Vibrant, as well as all other Samsung Galaxy S variants. Materials:
2 micro USB cables of any length.
I recommend these: http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=4867&seq=1&format=2 .
You can get them from a local store if you want, but never pay more than two dollars for a micro USB cable, especially in this case seeing as you are going to rip one apart soon.
A soldering iron.
Not for soldering your phone though, it is for soldering two of the wires in a micro USB cable together.
You can get one of these at a local Radio Shack or home improvement store.
Rosin core solder
Any solder works but rosin core is the easiest to find and its really easy to melt
You can get this at a local Radio Shack or home improvement store.
A 301K ohm resistor
Notice the K. A 301K ohm resistor is different from a 301 ohm resistor!
You can get one of these at a local Radio Shack or from Amazon.com
If you cant find a 301k resistor at Radio Shack, and don’t feel like ordering it, you can just buy 3 100k resistors, and one 1k resistor and solder them together to create a 301K resistor.
Some people will tell you that a 300k resistor will also force a Galaxy S into download mode, but it doesn’t work for everyone, so stick with a 301K.
Wire strippers
Utility knife
Creating the Test Jig:
You will force your Vibrant / Galaxy S variant into download mode by emulating the usb test jig used by Samsung engineers.
Before doing anything. Turn your phone off and let it charge.
If necessary solder the 3 100k resistors and 1k resistor together to make your 301k resistor.
The order you place them in does not matter.
If you bought the 301k resistor disregard this step
Cut one of your Micro USB cables in half, and cut away a section of the sheathing using a utility knife, exposing the five wires within.
Using the wire strippers, remove the insulation of the ends of wires 4 and 5, exposing the copper.
Refer to this image if you do not know which wires 4 and 5 are:
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Solder the 301k resistor across wires 4 and 5, in other words connect them with the resistor.
DO NOT DO THIS WITH THE CHORD PLUGGED INTO YOUR PHONE! THE HEAT CAN DAMAGE IT!
Once the solder is cooled and dry, unplug your Samsung Galaxy S from the charger, and DO NOT TURN IT ON!
Plug the micro USB end of the test jig you just made into the usb port of your Samsung Galaxy S.
Your phone will turn on by itself and boot into recovery mode
Do not turn it on before plugging the jig in or it will not work.
Once it it booted into download mode, flash a rom via ODIN.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usb cover is loosing badly, it's so easy to open it
I searched this and found out that this is a common issue,
but I'm wondering if the phone will remain water-proof with this condition?
I found a defy tear down post in a China forum, in the post he mentioned: (see also the attach pic below)
Defy's usb connector is an isolated unit which is produced with a water-proof process,
so it is actually no problem with the cover opened in water.
The cover is just to prevent a short circuit when expose to water.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://bbs.gfan.com/android-287841-1-1.html
So now I'm totally confused.
Will Defy still be water-proof without the usb cover?
And, did anyone here tested your defy underwater with the cover opened?
I wouldn't really bet on it, mate If someone has tested the theory, though, please let us know what were the results
I don't think because the USB pins can be short circuited due to water
I don't want a Tapatalk sig!
it's logical ... but today I discovered little wet spot in usb connector ... but still works... :angel:
so we need some conformation about this ...:crying:
deffyplus said:
it's logical ... but today I discovered little wet spot in usb connector ... but still works... :angel:
so we need some conformation about this ...:crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ionize that water and put it in your USB
Lol don't do that!
I don't want a Tapatalk sig!
Unlikely!
I'd say without the cover the phone will very likely allow water in through the USB port - take a look at the charge socket and note the square holes on the left and right sides of the metal connector.... now take a look at a dismantled Defy and it clearly shows that through these holes water would then go onto the main PCB
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The short answer would be no.
It may still be fairly water resistant compared to other phones, but the cover is there for a reason.
Wouldn't go dunking it any time soon
No! It will not be waterproof w/o usb cover.
I appreciate the answers and opinions, and I would like this to grow into a larger debate ...
Again going back to the Chinese forum...There is a picture that explains why can not agree with that usb is not attached to matherboard...cover is all about mud, dust, serious conditions which may be subject to phone ...
p.s. It is my opinion...?? What do you think??
deffyplus said:
I appreciate the answers and opinions, and I would like this to grow into a larger debate ...
Again going back to the Chinese forum...There is a picture that explains why can not agree with that usb is not attached to matherboard...cover is all about mud, dust, serious conditions which may be subject to phone ...
p.s. It is my opinion...?? What do you think??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Clearly the Chinese picture you show is different to the Defy 525 / Defy+526 which as my image shows has the USB port soldered directly to the circuit board. The socket looks like it's in the other side of the board as well.... the Defy we know has the socket to the right of the SIM as shown in my picture, your picture shows the socket directly next to the SIM socket. It would make sense to have a seperate USB port that plugs in because these sockets wear out and need replacing and a plug on socket is easy to replace whereas the soldered socket might even damage the circuit board if knocked hard.
So the answer is still that the version with directly soldered socket will let water inside the phone without a cover.... I have no idea about the version your picture shows... I suspect it would be much more water resistant as it'll be a solid block no doubt.
Defy isn't fully waterproof, it's rather water resistant. My friend killed his defy by testing this so beware, espesially without usb or microphone cover.
our zepagoal
not recommended without the plug! and i dont get why anyone would bother!
Hi guys, is there anywhere I can get a fpc battery terminal for the logic board as per image attached? one of the brass prongs got caught in the battery and pinged off to my horror!
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Gutted is an understatement!
@turbotux If it's *just* the connector you want, and you're happy/able to solder it to the board, you can get it here.....
http://www.fonejoy.com/genuine-sams...edge-j1-j5-battery-connector-3711-008737.html
I personally wouldn't touch a hand soldering job like that, and I have been regularly using a soldering iron on all sorts of kit for over 20 years. The connectors are invariably microscopic and the potential to cause other, accidental damage is too high.
But if you want to try it....fair play and good luck (I think you'll need it).
Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.
keithross39 said:
Having actually had a 'close up' look at the connector, the solder points are bigger than I thought they would be (I've hand soldered smaller contacts). It would be possible to hand solder, but you'd need a *very* fine tipped soldering iron. And preferably one that produced a lower level of heat than a 'regular' soldering iron.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.
turbotux said:
Thank you so much for the response, it appears the solder points are big enough, look it's broken each way so it's worth a try I guess.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah....you have a broken phone right now so why not try it? Just be *REAL* careful....There are a number of surface mounted components in close proximity to your work area....
Damaging them through accidental contact with the soldering iron (or even simple heat transfer along the board) is a BIG possibility....
---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ----------
One final bit of advice (though you probably already know this) 'tin' or coat the solder points on the new part before going near the board. It'll help minimise the length of time the iron is in contact with the board.
I have a soldering iron with a 'home modified' reversable tip. You can see in the picture, at one end is the standard 4mm tip while at the other is a 1mm tip that tapers down to practically a needle point. This is the end that sees the most use, and it is that size of tip that you're going to need.
Just to update, I managed to solder it and it still did not work unfortunely so I've bought another n910f handset, these things happen. However the cause of this I think is down to the extended battery I had pulling on the whole module, I'm going to be running the stock batteries I have from now on.
A worthy purchase however is the extended battery I've picked up for those long cycle rides which should easily see me through, for interest its a 14000mAh Logic3 which I picked up from Maplin for around £40 and compared to its 30000mAh Chinese predecessor it totally kicks ass.
A expensive lesson learned here....
I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.
keithross39 said:
I've gone a slightly different route with my S5 and wife's N4. I have 3 batteries for each and an external charger for both types.
The spare batteries are standard capacity, but they're made by Anker.
Batteries get rotated so there's always a good battery in the phone, one that's charging and a fully charged one waiting for use.
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Yeah the safe approach, I'm going down this route also, thanks for all your help
Yeah....It also minimises wear on the micro usb socket built into the phone...which is one big weak point on these devices.