Blu R1 HD speaker sound quality bad? Why not replace the speaker. - BLU R1 HD Guides, News, & Discussion

Hello everyone,
Unfortnently I do not have a camera to take pictures of my handy work ( or to make a guide). But I can confirm that you can swap the R1's speaker out.
Luckily I had a dead galaxy S4 laying around so, I took the speaker from it. It's pretty much the same dimension of the speaker on the R1. The first tricky
part is to remove the original speaker. If you want the original speaker intact I would recommend removing it slowly and carefully. It's adhered in so
getting it out may take a little force. After you get the original speaker out you will be met with a black rectangle plastic piece. This piece was used to
keep the previous speaker in place while having some foam to keep the speaker housing sealed for quality. what you wanna do is take an Exacto knife
and slowly push between the plastic ring and metal plating behind it. Once it starts lifting, slowly move the blade all around to make the black plastic piece
pop out. I ended up breaking mine in the process ( I was excited and up being a little hasty).
Now we are ready to prep for the galaxy s4 speaker transplant. You need to desolder the speaker (galaxy S4's ) sudo Kapton tape PCB. Then solder short wires to it ( I'm sure on the
exact length is used, maybe 15mm worth). You should use a wire that's flexible and not too large of a gauge ( I used 30 awg wire). Now on the R1 positive should be the right pad and negative is on the left ( this is from having the phone upside down with the camera facing the left and USB port facing the right). You want to place the speaker in the general area where the old speaker was on the PCB. And solder the wires on the PCB (R1's PCB) and the speaker, the flexible wire that I suggested you use comes key here. As there isn't a lot of room for the wiring you need to curl the wire so it won't take up space, but still, have some length if the speaker lifts off the PCB. After that, you put the plastic housing back and kind of wiggle it back and forth until it sits back flush.
After that, you can listen your better and louder sounding R1. Now I don't have to cup my hand on the back to listen anymore If I do it now it's too loud .
If you have any questions feel free to ask away. I know that this may not be the best explanation but I don't have a camera handy to show you.
Maybe I'll draw some pictures in a program or something later.
Requirements:
Soldering iron
Small gauge wire that's flexible
If you would like the wire I used you can find it on amazon titled as this Breadboard P/N B-30-1000 Tin Plated Copper Wire Wrapping 30AWG Cable 305M Blue
Solder
Galaxy S4 speaker from housing ( this may take a little fiddling around to get apart, and finding one is easy on amazon.)
R1 HD of course
Some Patients

For all the work required, and the danger of jacking up your device, you could just use a wired or bluetooth speaker.

cyanix-tech said:
For all the work required, and the danger of jacking up your device, you could just use a wired or bluetooth speaker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well for me this modification is for a general overall use. That way I can hear the ringtones better and if I'm somewhere I can listen to music if I'd like. I would not like to carry a soundbar all the time. The danger is there if you are not electronically inclined ( soldering etc). But overall this took me five minutes. Yes, this is a risk. But, I didn't mind since I have it on silent because it's not loud enough most of the time. The stock speaker sounds horrible.

jet613 said:
Hello everyone,
Unfortnently I do not have a camera to take pictures of my handy work ( or to make a guide). But I can confirm that you can swap the R1's speaker out.
Luckily I had a dead galaxy S4 laying around so, I took the speaker from it. It's pretty much the same dimension of the speaker on the R1. The first tricky
part is to remove the original speaker. If you want the original speaker intact I would recommend removing it slowly and carefully. It's adhered in so
getting it out may take a little force. After you get the original speaker out you will be met with a black rectangle plastic piece. This piece was used to
keep the previous speaker in place while having some foam to keep the speaker housing sealed for quality. what you wanna do is take an Exacto knife
and slowly push between the plastic ring and metal plating behind it. Once it starts lifting, slowly move the blade all around to make the black plastic piece
pop out. I ended up breaking mine in the process ( I was excited and up being a little hasty).
Now we are ready to prep for the galaxy s4 speaker transplant. You need to desolder the speaker (galaxy S4's ) sudo Kapton tape PCB. Then solder short wires to it ( I'm sure on the
exact length is used, maybe 15mm worth). You should use a wire that's flexible and not too large of a gauge ( I used 30 awg wire). Now on the R1 positive should be the right pad and negative is on the left ( this is from having the phone upside down with the camera facing the left and USB port facing the right). You want to place the speaker in the general area where the old speaker was on the PCB. And solder the wires on the PCB (R1's PCB) and the speaker, the flexible wire that I suggested you use comes key here. As there isn't a lot of room for the wiring you need to curl the wire so it won't take up space, but still, have some length if the speaker lifts off the PCB. After that, you put the plastic housing back and kind of wiggle it back and forth until it sits back flush.
After that, you can listen your better and louder sounding R1. Now I don't have to cup my hand on the back to listen anymore If I do it now it's too loud .
If you have any questions feel free to ask away. I know that this may not be the best explanation but I don't have a camera handy to show you.
Maybe I'll draw some pictures in a program or something later.
Requirements:
Soldering iron
Small gauge wire that's flexible
If you would like the wire I used you can find it on amazon titled as this Breadboard P/N B-30-1000 Tin Plated Copper Wire Wrapping 30AWG Cable 305M Blue
Solder
Galaxy S4 speaker from housing ( this may take a little fiddling around to get apart, and finding one is easy on amazon.)
R1 HD of course
Some Patients
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this great mod/hack information for the BLU R1 HD!
Could you please post a detailed picture of the
"Galaxy S4 speaker" that you have used, and links (amazon, eBay, etc) where to get it from??

Hello again jet613,
Since there are so many different speakers models for the "Galaxy S4" at Amazon.com, I would greatly appreciate if you Could post a detailed picture of this "Galaxy S4 speaker" that you have used, and links at amazon, eBay, etc...

You can simply replace the original speaker with the "OEM Motorola MOTO G 2nd Gen XT1064 XT1063 XT1068 Loud Speaker Ear Speaker." I bought it from eBay, and it fit perfectly. If you use this method, you will still need to remove the "black rectangle plastic piece" after removing the original speaker, as described by ulises.rodriguez.

powerd0317 said:
You can simply replace the original speaker with the "OEM Motorola MOTO G 2nd Gen XT1064 XT1063 XT1068 Loud Speaker Ear Speaker." I bought it from eBay, and it fit perfectly. If you use this method, you will still need to remove the "black rectangle plastic piece" after removing the original speaker, as described by ulises.rodriguez.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for finding a commonly available replacement speaker!
Can you give us your opinion on how much of a difference replacing the speaker made? How much louder is it? Is it also clearer as well as louder?
The original Blu speaker is about the worst speaker I've heard.

yaconsult said:
Thank you for finding a commonly available replacement speaker!
Can you give us your opinion on how much of a difference replacing the speaker made? How much louder is it? Is it also clearer as well as louder?
The original Blu speaker is about the worst speaker I've heard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
After replacing the speaker, the sound is much more clear and also louder (though not super loud).

Confirmed, but my thoughts
With marginal at best soldering ability this mod was performed. I decided to take the back off and solder the wires directly to the logic board.
There is a small rubber piece inside the back of the Blu speaker slot you'll want to remove to make things fit.
To be honest I'm not super impressed with the sound quality but it is better. The speaker that came out of the Blu R1 HD was very poor quality.
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Related

[GUIDE] How to replace a scratched camera

So not that long after getting a SGS2 at launch I managed to get the camera lens scratched. Pictures became fuzzy and useless. I guess some dirt got caught between my desk and the lens and upon nudging my phone the scratch appeared. I have since received follow up scratches further compounding the issue.
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So ladies and gentlemen, as I could not find much help on the subject, I present a quick guide to fixing said problem.
Polish - didn't work. I then discovered that the camera is covered by a protective screen which is integrated with the case. So... flea-bay, a Hong Kong distributor of replacement Samsung Galaxy S2 Housings and ten quid later I am presented with a new case.
1. Clear some space and give it a wipe down, don't want any more scratches eh?
2. Prepare your new back plate by cutting up a screen-protector and putting it over the camera lens. I'm going to redo mine at some point, but it will do for now:
3. Turn off and remove the usual gubbins from your phone (battery, sim, sd)
4. Using a precision cross-head screwdriver, unscrew the five screws on the rear of the phone. Use a small magnet to lift them from their resting position and put them somewhere safe (preferably in a layout you remember for their return trip).
5. The tricky bit is always separating the case. Do not be tempted to ram a screw driver down the side and twist, this will just mess up the case. I just used my finger nails and worked it free.
The top is the least resistive and easiest to get your nail in. Work the top loose and then work down each side a bit at a time. You can use your new case as a guide for where the clips are. Be careful not to snap the clips at the bottom of the phone. I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't break anything, and if I can do it, anybody can.
6. You'll notice a couple of things different - strangely, I had an extra electrical connector at the top of my phone, no adverse effects yet.
The speaker system (and probably some other stuff) is embedded in the lower part of the phone.
A precision flat-head screwdriver gently levered on the left will unclip the left side. For the right side pop your screwdriver in from the other side where the battery cover clips into. The speaker part should just pop out.
Mine came out sans-grille. This isn't glued onto the case, so should just lift off, place back onto the speaker component before inserting into your new device.
7. Remove the protective sticker from the inside of the lens screen.
8. Pop the new back onto your phone, starting at the bottom and working your way up the sides evenly.
11. Replace screws, don't over tighten as you may break the plastic threads. Screw lightly anti-clockwise first and you'll feel the thread line up, this reduces the chances of you getting your thread crossed and wrecking it.
10. Remove the button support stickers and other protective coverings
11. Reinstall your gubbins and power up!
12. Snap away
Hope this helps.
Dash
A great guide, maybe I'll use it one day. The only thing i find strange is that i even have a slightly bigger scratch along the lens protection, yet my pictures still look good...
If you look closely at the first image you'll see faint scratches over the centre of the lens. The big one on the edge I don't think has an impact. It took me ages of peering in bright sunlight to spot them.
Dashers said:
If you look closely at the first image you'll see faint scratches over the centre of the lens. The big one on the edge I don't think has an impact. It took me ages of peering in bright sunlight to spot them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to bump this. This thread is interesting as, upon the first day I got this phone I realized that the place the camera is in seems to be an easy target for scratches. I mean, the camera and flash glasses are ridiculously exposed and when you put the phone on any surface it is actually laying directly over them. So, I was wondering, is there any way to protect the camera? I guess a screen protector would ruin picture quality, right?
i wld agree that yes, even with just resting the phone on table with time YOU WILL get some minor scratches.
Dident compromize my camera quality (yet) but i was affraid in time it will.
So i did what OP did-with screen protector i had spare.
I was not in a need to replace anything so i just cut small cube-shape of protector (thin,dare i say cheap one will work best, not some fancy,thick or reflective protector)
and then i just sticked it well outside the camera lens and put case back on. You cannot see it tbh and no picture quality decrease
So I cut square protective folie and put it on the camera glass... but what about glue which comes with protector folie? There are un-glue protectors but I am not sure the will snap to such small area at all....
Really pictures quality didn't decrease?
not at all.
although,my protector was sticky by itself i quess i wld suggest you do the same
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda app-developers app
Im saving this thread for when I scratch mine!
I am going forward to order new housing.
I will follow this guide then !
Thanks
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
great tutorial it should be sticky !!
I just got mine today and will do this swap later today! Checked the case out looks good, looked at the camera lens area and found scratches! Bugged me out that! Turns out there is a plastic covering over it
I got a black s2 which I've polished the chrome bezel off, to make it black and scrubbed the whole back casing to give it that matte finish, I ordered for a white one now to give it that contrasting 'Oreo cookie' look :silly:
Will post pics when done, wish me luck and pray I don't break anything!
UPDATE:
Well I managed to sucessfully do the swap and I must say this device looks killer this way! I am in love with it! The grip seems to have suffered a bit and t (Glossy vs textured) there were some difference between the original and the one I got (a cheap one but fits perfect with good finish) but nothing seems any different function wise.
Sorry for the horrible quality pics as I only had my Nexus 7 with me (Clicking pics with the ffc is a pain) I'll try to get high res images if anyone wants to see...
Good.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
mzone1510 said:
I just got mine today and will do this swap later today! Checked the case out looks good, looked at the camera lens area and found scratches! Bugged me out that! Turns out there is a plastic covering over it
I got a black s2 which I've polished the chrome bezel off, to make it black and scrubbed the whole back casing to give it that matte finish, I ordered for a white one now to give it that contrasting 'Oreo cookie' look :silly:
Will post pics when done, wish me luck and pray I don't break anything!
UPDATE:
Well I managed to sucessfully do the swap and I must say this device looks killer this way! I am in love with it! The grip seems to have suffered a bit and t (Glossy vs textured) there were some difference between the original and the one I got (a cheap one but fits perfect with good finish) but nothing seems any different function wise.
Sorry for the horrible quality pics as I only had my Nexus 7 with me (Clicking pics with the ffc is a pain) I'll try to get high res images if anyone wants to see...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
looks very cool! nice ideea man.
Thanks it's really useful
Very interesting.
Got a lot of dust inside the lens ..
Nice post
Great Work helped me very much::: (-:
Hi all! I got scratches all over that protective glass so pictures are unusable...
I want to purchase the part to replace it but i'm not too sure what to get from ebay..I found http://m.ebay.com/itm/141303100240?nav=SEARCH this,but is this what I really need or do I need something else?
Please,if this is not the correct part,can someone link me the correct one?
Thanks in advance!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA Free mobile app
Dashers said:
A precision flat-head screwdriver gently levered on the left will unclip the left side. For the right side pop your screwdriver in from the other side where the battery cover clips into. The speaker part should just pop out.
Mine came out sans-grille. This isn't glued onto the case, so should just lift off, place back onto the speaker component before inserting into your new device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I dunno about 2011.. But by 2017 the little rubber band around the speaker was basically fused with that placed on the plastic frame.
In the end anyway, it was just about leveraging a bit more with the screwdriver on the bottom left corner of the thing.
Funnily, I discovered just afterwards that if camera is everything you care about there are alternatives.

My SGN Hardware Mods [Photo heavy]

We have a whole forum devoted to software mods, but little talk about hardware mods, so I thought I would share mine and invite others to do the same (large or small):
Touchstone Mod
As a former Palm Pre owner, when I jumped to Android I never gave up my love of inductive charging using the "Touchstone" accessory that was available for the Pre (1) (2) and I wasn't about to start now:
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The finished product was pretty svelte:
(the top piece of tape is to improve friction on the touchstone -- the bottom one provides friction and covers the charging circuit which is flush with the outside of the case (if anyone wants a detailed rundown of the procedure or just wants to gawk at the internal bits I can post details and photos of the touchstone mod).
Car Mount
Touchstone mod out of the way, it was time to mount it in the car. There were some issues here. Specifically, how could I position the relatively large Galaxy note in a place that was: 1.) easy to see and manipulate, 2.) not in the way of my shifter, and 3.) not crowding the passenger?
In the end I used mounting hardware designed for my GoPro camera to get the touchstone into the right place and then I added some Sugru around the touchstone to expand the contact surface, add friction and shape it to the back of the phone:
Finished product:
Easier to Hold
I have no problem holding and operating the Galaxy Note one-handed, but I wished that the back was less slick so that it would stick to my fingers better when I'm resting the phone in one hand. The solution here was simple: a vinyl sticker got the job done:
Easier to Extract S-Pen
The S-Pen is very handy but proved a bugger to get out of the silo. I decided that if I could get the S-Pen out of the phone quickly without looking or picking at it, I would use use it more often. A drop of epoxy proved to be the simple solution:
I like the rubbery grip that bare epoxy gives in this solution. If you would rather that it feel and look like the metal top of the S-Pen, wait until the epoxy is hard to the touch but tacky and rub graphite powder into it with a cloth or paper towel. The result will look exactly like the silver of the pen top.
That's mine -- let me see yours!
-darren
I can definitely see myself using a drop of epoxy. However, I'm intruiged by the touchstone idea. Can you give a little more detailed photos, and maybe what process you went through to achieve it?
Will do. I'll try to get that up in the next 48 hours.
-darren
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk
Hello, please post more pics of the Touchstone mod. I'm very interested in making a similar mod for my Note.
+another for the touchstone mod. Have an extra lying around here. I also like your epoxy idea. Can you detail how you got such a nice clean drop there?
I'm considering making a bedside landscape dock. Do you know if the Note responds to magnets to put it in Desk Clock mode?
Thanks for your patience. I decided to post the details of the touchstone mod on AC since that's where I posted my last two mods and the editors gave me some love by publishing my last one to the front page. I feel that I owe 'em.
Here's a link to the full thread:
Galaxy Note Touchstone Mod [Photo heavy]
Feel free to comment or ask questions in either forum -- I'll watch both.
To answer undrwater's questions: I just got lucky when I put the epoxy on. It's pretty thick stuff and it could have just as easily have wound up a mess. I used the 5-minute set epoxy, in case that's a unique property of the faster setting type.
As for the Note responding to magnets, I haven't seen it behave differently in the presence of the Touchstone dock so I would guess not. That said, I expect the compass would go nuts so perhaps that can be programmed to detect a magnet, in the same way that some apps use it as a metal detector.
I placed the touchstone charging coil too low on the phone to allow for it to be rotated into the landscape orientation but I don't think there would be any problem moving the coil to the middle of the phone to allow for that. The phone will come on when it senses that it's charging and that's an event that you can probably trap with Tasker to accomplish what you want in the form of a bedside clock.
-darren
Touch stone issue
Daren ( I think thats your name)
I recently finished my touchstone mode to my att galalxy note. Everything went smooth for the most part.
Except the back cover and the speaker box!
The back cover had to have a circle completely cut into it.
The speaker did not work at first then i had to bend up the connections so they would touch.
My biggest and most disappointing issue could be a number of things.
When I was finally finished and touch the phone to the touchstone it would only charge the phone for a matter of 30 - 45 seconds before stopping and then restarting some time later.
It got extremely annoying to hear my phone go on and off charge. Also after an hour of this my phone was negative 3 percent from how much battery the screen used when the charge notifier powered it on.
I'm not sure if this is because the wire i used was too thin. or if the outlet that powered the touchstone wasn't strong enough? (it's on a power strip, shouldn't be the issue but you never know)
I had the coil completely touching with the foil that was provided.
This whole thing really pissed me off considering i spent the better part of a day for something that barely worked. Not to mention 100$'s in the hole.
What do you think? Thanks in advance.
I'm sorry that the mod went that poorly but it should be salvageable.
I'm trying to picture the issue with the speaker box as you describe it. Is it possible that the wires pinched somewhere and are keeping the speaker box from seating correctly against the PC board? That would likely cause other fit issues. You should be able to look at it and tell if there's a gap. If so, shave away a little more plastic to make room for your wires.
When you say that the back cover had to have a hole cut in it, was this for the coil? Did the coil not fit between the back and the battery? I have the studs, coil, foil part and electrical tape all sandwiched together between the back cover and the battery area with virtually no distortion of the back. The only thing I had to cut out was the area where the charging circuit goes. If you can post a photo or a link to a photo I might be able to help you more on this.
Finally, regarding the actual charging -- it can be problematic but you can almost always get it working. First, unsolder the wires connecting the charging coil circuit to the wires leading to the phone so that you can work with just the battery door and touchstone. Next, solder some short leads to the charging coil circuit and run these to a multimeter. Set the multimeter to measure DC voltage in the 5V range. Now, place the back onto the touchstone and watch what happens to the voltage.
The charging coil has to be centered on the touchstone just as it was in the original back. Now that you are working with just the back on the touchstone, the coil and studs are looking at you so you can experiment by positioning the metal studs in different locations to get the coil centered just right. Once you are getting steady voltage on the meter, glue them down again and then wire it back to the phone and you should be in business.
It helps to have a few extra Touchstones/backs to experiment with. I have run into one case where a particular touchstone would only work with one or two of my Pre backs, even before moving the parts into a new phone, and I've learned a lot through trial and error (like the fact that the flat foil piece from the Pre is a necessary component).
If you can post or link to some photos, I can probably give you better assistance. Good luck!
-darren
Oh, by the way -- I just noticed that your mod was on an AT&T Note. Mine was on an International Note which is likely to be similar but the photos I've seen of the AT&T Note show more bits around the speaker box (antennas?) and a slightly different arrangement at the USB port where I attached my wires. I would suggest tracing out the ground and 5VDC wires from the USB-micro port (if you haven't already) to make sure that your chosen attachment points are correct.
-darren
One more one more thing: the AT&T Galaxy Note has an NFC antenna in the battery IIRC. I don't know how that will affect the operation of an inductive charging coil. My only point of reference is the Nexus S 4G that I put a touchstone coil in. I found that if the charging coil was on the *outside* of the phone, with the NFC coil on the inside of the back cover, both operated OK. When the Touchstone coil was sandwiched between the NFC coil and battery, the inductive charging, NFC or both failed to work.
Click here to see my report on modding the Nexus S.
In your case, the order of things mirrors my success with the Nexus S 4G, but your charging coil and NFC will be virtually in contact while they were separated by the rear door plastic on my Nexus S 4G. If the NFC coil is causing trouble, then the back will work, as currently configured, when you take it off the phone and put it on a meter. Let me know what you find.
-darren
RE - Problems with I717 TouchStone Mostly Fixed
Hey Daren, It's Chris.
Thanks for your quick replay. I got everything working, and your completely right. The Positioning of the coil is very important. However. Not as important as the positioning of the foil that was provided with the coil. It turns out that the foil has to be the exact same plan as the coil. and has to hang over the edges of the coil. e.g. the foil cannot be exactly the same size circle as the foil. Thats what caused my issues. I also had to place the coil WITH the foil on the back side of the battery door, and the board on the inside of the battery door. Anyway i'm still testing. I'll let you know how it goes.
Interesting fact. "Battery Mix" Says charging - 36 Min to 100% ( +54.5% p/h ) That's a huge rate of charge. I'm wondering if the capsitor is stopping the charge because the flow rate is too great. Thats why it shuts on and off? Let me know what you think.
Thanks again!
-Chris,
That's great news! That charging rate seems crazy high though. Without hardware or software modification, the phone usually limits charging to 0.5A. If you figure out what is going on maybe you can bottle it and sell it.
-darren

TF300 Back removed

Well I got bored and since I couldn't find any pictures of the insides of the TF300 I took the cover off, it was a lot simpler than I thought it would be. The volume button and power button are attached so you don't have to worry about them falling out of the cover.
There are just a bunch of clips holding the back on and all I did was slip my spudger in between the seam around the screen and it started popping apart.
I did start on the bottom and the opposite side of the volume rocker and then just worked my way around it.
Only took about 5 minutes being careful the first time around. Would only take a minute or two now since I know how easy this thing comes apart.
If you do this be sure to remove your micro SD card first though.
I didn't go any further than just remove the back, really didn't feel like doing a full tear down and didn't want to remove the warranty sticker either.
Putting it back on only takes a minute.
The one thing that did surprise me was the amount of finger print smudges there were on the copper strips and the metallic coating on the underside of the cover, they definitely weren't mine , so much for using gloves.
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Here's the direct links to the full sized images.
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7640/005esp.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/6397/006kt.jpg
nice
i always wonders how it look like o the inside. by any chance are you planing to crawl to the cpu and gpu?
Unless I get really bored I probably won't tear it down any further.
The CPU/GPU look to be under the large copper shield and it's stuck down pretty good. I'd definitely would bend it up really bad trying to get it off as it's very thin, and on the lower edge of it there's a warranty sticker so I wouldn't want to damage it.
Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic
turdbogls said:
Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can find a white or red one on eBay then yes it is. There are no components on the cover itself except for a heat dispersion pad. That's it.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Just a thought... Could the bootloader encryption be on a chip?
obsidianchao said:
Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The copper foil is probably used as dual purpose, heat spreader and EMI shielding. The piece over the CPU/GPU does have a black plastic backing insulating it from other components. But I couldn't tell if the copper foil was in direct contact with the CPU/GPU or not with the way it was stuck down, and I didn't want to pry up on it as it would bend out of shape very easily.
Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..
DuneBug said:
Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are a couple pictures posted in OP, I updated it to include links to the full sized images.
Oh oops, Opera mobile wasn't showing the pics till u added the links..
Very interesting, everything is clean and tight hehe.
Thanks
Yes a back replacement for those who like to mod would be cool!
Nice. If they were ever to sell the red one I would look for the red back. Lol. That's the one I really wanted but couldn't resist.
Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using XDA
There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?
psjw12 said:
There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/
chili_red said:
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look for a port to put a 3g receiver
poor quality control on these items
archondragon said:
hey can you post a youtube video man on how to disassemble it? i am seriously having a touch screen issue, i'm afraid to take it apart unless i see a video on how to do it, but so far i found none. hopefullly maybe you can show.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9
LOL
You got some nerve!
I’m very afraid of taking apart my electronics. (Sloppy hands)
You know who assembles for ASUS? Because I’ve seen pictures of FOXXCON workers wearing gloves, or fingertip cover if not whole gloves.
Ripped mine apart today.
Buster99 said:
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dropped mine three days after I got it - doesn't take a hit very well.. Still powers up and operates but glass/touchscreen is shattered and no touch response, so it's basically a doorstop..
Ripped into it after seeing this post - no video of the process though, sorry.. Getting the back off is indeed easy.. Video connector is right there and easy to get to in order to re-seat if you suspect a bad connection.. It is the metallic micro-connector that actually has wires and is taped down with a clear tape.
Also, touchscreen plastic ribbon connector is also easy to get to in order to re-seat.. It is the wide plastic strip type ribbon (with internal wiring strips) that ends up splitting into two connections with little foam rubber pieces on top of them to keep them from backing out.. When you pull the connections out, as I did today, it's good to know how they work. The two touchscreen headers (connectors) on the pcb are a hinged/clamping type. The back of the connector (away from the ribbon) hinges up and the ribbon is free.
Anyway, removing a shattered touchscreen is a bear - lots and lots of sticky adhesive. Double-sided sticky tape (half inch wide) holding the touchscreen to the flimsy plastic bezel all the way around, and double-sided sticky foam (2mm wide) holding the touchscreen to the TFT display assembly all the way around.
I need confirmation, please, from anyone; is this touchscreen for the TF300 the same one used for the TF201. I would assume it is, but do not want to order one based on an assumption.. I have the whole unit reassembled and working w/o touchscreen. Installing it will be miles easier than taking it out for sure..

[USER Tips] Nook HD+ teardown with images (+ video)

Apologies. My English is not a professional!
Hi.
I token apart many mobile and tab items. This one was so easy to do.
If you crack or broke something when you take apart your Nook HD+ then all responsibility goes only for you. My guide is only for knowledge base.
You lose WARRANTY when you take apart your device!
Ok, lets start.
Tools you need:
1. Plastic Triangle Pry Tool
2. Plastic Pry Tool
3. Torx T5 Screwdriver
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1. Take Plastic Triangle Pry Tool and place it to screen on bottom side where screen bezel corner is cut off. VERY GENTLY push the Plastic Triangle Pry Tool behind bezel and screen.
Be aware! Plastic Bezel is very soft and you can broke bezel legs. About which legs I talk, you see on 7 step pictures.
2. Don't take away Plastic Triangle Pry Tool. Move around the entire inside of the plastic bezel. You hear how double sided tape be open.
3. Again don't take away Plastic Triangle Pry Tool. Push it VERY GENTLY more inside, but be aware you can broke little bezel plastic leg.
4. You see that bezel corner goes up at body. Now push Plastic Pry Tool at another side behind bezel and body and remove Plastic Triangle Pry Tool
5. Place Plastic Triangle Pry Tool at outside behind body and bezel and move around the entire outside of the plastic bezel. You again hear how double sided tape be open.
6. Now gently remove bezel at body. You need gently help with Plastic Pry Tool.
7. Hard part is done and this is how looks bezel and legs. These legs are around bezel.
8. Take Torx T5 Screwdriver
9. Unscrew the all screws (marked green on picture) except red marked screws on picture. If you unscrew these screws you can broke one copper foil which one makes ground/background to WiFi antenna.
All screws are same size!
10. Now take Nook to left hand power button side to down and with Plastic Triangle Pry Tool GENTLY detach backside plastic cover a little bit at body. Be aware battery is attached to backside plastic cover and you can broke battery connector on motherboard if you use here power on detach.
11. With right hand fingers GENTLY move battery power cable at mainboard. Place all pieces GENTLY to table.
12. All done. Now it look like this!
Enjoy!
YouTube video example
http://youtu.be/HpVrds3g-M8
When you place back Plastic bezel, you need replace 3mm Double sided tape around bezel. I used this one 3M Sticker tape Double sided tape Adhesive For housing touch screen LCD 3mm
You are welcome to redistribute it but ask for consent before!
I try monitor this thread and reply.
Thanks! I've done a few screen-ectomies in my past, and this will be a useful guide if I need to again. The question I have, did you get it back together?
I can't tell from the Pic. Is that space in the center right a Ram slot that might allow and increase to 2 gig? A Rom upgrade looks like it might be simple also.
edit: my mistake - the the ram slot is actually the Battery contact.
dbh369 said:
Thanks! I've done a few screen-ectomies in my past, and this will be a useful guide if I need to again. The question I have, did you get it back together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This baby opened second time for making this guide. Yes i can make reverse guide too but i dont see reason. Because there are nothing to do. Just put all back. And YES, it works.
One thing have which one i write on monday. You need 3mm double sided clear or black 3M tape to replace tape on bezel.
Nuor60 said:
I can't tell from the Pic. Is that space in the center right a Ram slot that might allow and increase to 2 gig? A Rom upgrade looks like it might be simple also.
edit: my mistake - the the ram slot is actually the Battery contact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are there even ram modules for tablets being sold? With which form factor are we dealing here?
If it can be upgraded though it would be great news, 1 gig is rather constraining.
Added video and link for example 3M double sided 3mm tape.
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
OyaNET said:
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your point?
datas0ft said:
What is your point?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Point is, that I love my HD+, but I miss standard micro USB connection and wireless charging.
I'm already running late on a few projects of mine but after seeing the pics I cant get rid of the thoughts of hardware hacking my HD+ to integrate the above features.
BTW. I'm really grateful for the teardown pictures and description.
OyaNET said:
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go for it, then quit your day job! Lol.
Better yet, build a converter adaptor, micro usb female to Nook 30-pin male, then we could use the HD+ for USB hosting.
thanks!
is screen replacement possible?
I am looking at your pictures to determine if it is possible to replace a cracked screen. I dropped mine on the concrete sidewalk and the glass cracked.:crying: The functionality is fine, the lcd was not damaged, just the "glass" (or plastic more likely). I would like to replace it with a new one, but if it is really impossible to do without breaking parts such as the foil ground wire, etc, then I guess I will put up with a cracked screen. Do you think it is really feasible to replace the lcd and digitizer? Thanks.
could i charge the battery directly?
loverppc said:
could i charge the battery directly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Nook HD+ is not charging anymore since one week. Battery goes low now, only green light no orange, tried 2 original power adapter, is it possible to recharche batterie without the internal charging electronics with an external one or is it possible to connect 5v power adapter directly to nook hd+?
thanks!
retaped down the bezel on my HD Plus
nice guide
Is the N home button accessible through this method, or is that built within the screen making it difficult to access? My N button on a Nook HD+ is not very responsive and has to be pressed hard to get it to work (purchased it on ebay), anyone know if this is fixable? I have a Nook HD as well which was brand new and that one's button is very responsive and works with the slightest of touch.
Ok, so i opened my Nook HD+ up and the micro switch is definitely accessible, but it needs to be replaced as the previous owner seems to have been a bit too harsh with it. Anyone know where i can get an exact replacement? I've replaced car fob key micro switches before, so this shouldn't be an issue.
Here's a photo from the Nook Tablet, the switch is the same in the HD+ (it's about an inch above the USB)
http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/BWtQHPQKynJJROds
Does anyone know where I could buy one of the connectors to attach the digitizer's flexi ribbon to the motherboard?
Mine fast shutdown when in use, despite fully charged. And cannot be tured on, unless plugged in. Use while wired id's fine throughout.
is that battery issue?
Any generic battery module to recommend that can fit?
Dimensions of battery pack please?
Just buy a used Nook. They are fairly cheap. Harvest a battery out of one with a broken screen perhaps.

[TUT] Get rid of the Dust in Front Camera

Hi, everyone. This time I'm gonna show you how to dismantling your Redmi Note 2 and how to avoid letting dust in the front camera.
You can simply check if you'll get this trouble by this way:
Cut a slice of paper by scissors or your hair and try to stick into left of the receiver. If you can stick into it, then your front camera will be dusty someday.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First, these are the tools you need:
1. Your RN2
2. Scissors
3. Double-sided tape
4. Foam rubber tape (Optional)
5. Alcohol
6. Tiny Screwdriver
7. Glasses cloth
8. Fingernail
9. Patient
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Click to collapse
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Let get started!
First, screw up "12" tiny screws, two of it has stickers on it. I don't even want to send back China to repair it, so don't worry about the stickers.
now, you have to use your nail stick into the left corner of the phone, then follow the slit between main-board base and main-board cover.
You should slit the left side till the "volume + " button and stop here.
Now, stick into the first place and start to slit right, you'll meet right down corner, then keep on.
Keeps slit to the right up corner near the screw hole than stop here.
Here's the most difficult part, you should carefully hold both side of the cover and slowly pull up them by your prefer hand.
The other hand, again use your nail to slit into it, this would be hard, so be patient and carefully, or you'll brake your main-board cover into two piece
After you finish previous step, it is getting easy now.
What I point out is the front camera module, carefully pick it up with your nail , you can clean the dust now
Be very carefully that don't bend the cable or you'll screw all up :silly:
Use whatever you like to clean up the space between camera and glass.
Now, times to seal it up!
Use the double-side tape to stick on the back of the front camera module
First, cut it to fit the size of camera and stick on it one by one. Don't forget to remove both of the sticker.
I use 4 piece of the tape. Remember, don't remove the last sticker of the tape!
After that, you can put back your camera module.
Now, you can put back your main-board cover and try to boot your device, if it boot up and nothing hurt, then you are free to go :good:
All the pics took by my old Lenovo A820
Hello!
First of all thank you for the tutorial. I am going to use it for sure - I don't want to send it back either!
I don't have to do the test, I already have dust
So, there are two things that i need you to clarify for me, if possible.
1. I find this part "You should slit the left side till the "volume - " button and stop here.
Now, stick into the first place and start to slit right, you'll meet right down corner, then keep on.
Keeps slit to the right up corner near the screw hole than stop here." really difficult. I found this myfixguide.com/manual/xiaomi-redmi-note-2-teardown/ that doesn't say that it's hard, but I tottaly trust you.
So, when I meet with my nail the volume - , then I stick my nail "more inside" (sorry for this)? And when you say left and right, you mean as I look the phone from the back, right? From which corner do I start?
2. In the last photo, i can't see how you plase the tape, which is the most important I guess.
Can you upload a video or pictures on the route your nail followed to open the device please? Of course not open it again, from the outside, just to be sure.
Thank you in advance and for your time. Hope we will find a solution for this problem
AntwnisGr said:
Hello!
First of all thank you for the tutorial. I am going to use it for sure - I don't want to send it back either!
I don't have to do the test, I already have dust
So, there are two things that i need you to clarify for me, if possible.
1. I find this part "You should slit the left side till the "volume - " button and stop here.
Now, stick into the first place and start to slit right, you'll meet right down corner, then keep on.
Keeps slit to the right up corner near the screw hole than stop here." really difficult. I found this myfixguide.com/manual/xiaomi-redmi-note-2-teardown/ that doesn't say that it's hard, but I tottaly trust you.
So, when I meet with my nail the volume - , then I stick my nail "more inside" (sorry for this)? And when you say left and right, you mean as I look the phone from the back, right? From which corner do I start?
2. In the last photo, i can't see how you plase the tape, which is the most important I guess.
Can you upload a video or pictures on the route your nail followed to open the device please? Of course not open it again, from the outside, just to be sure.
Thank you in advance and for your time. Hope we will find a solution for this problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry about not clearly explained the detail of how to tear down.
1.
Here's the route how I tear down my device, and sorry I just modify the image to show you this because I don't have my second device now.
It is easy to stick your fingernail into left bottom corner, and do like the image shows. On left side, you'll reach "volume + " (sorry it is "+" not "-" , my bad.)and near infrared blaster, and on the other side, you'll reach near 3.5 mm audio hole.
It is not recommend to keeps using your nail to slit the upper side because you can see the gap is not a straight line , you should hold both side near the position like the image below and using one hand on it like to open your back cover while using the other hand's nail to stick into the gap to helping the opening.
2.
Paste the tape on the back of the camera like I circle out. Just on the square.
It is not means there's no anti-dust washer, but it is not tie enough to make it seal, paste tapes on the back of camera just to push the camera module more close to the glass to make sure that washer works.
On the other hand why I don't recommend using foam rubber tape, some may ask this should works better than double-side tape.
1. Temperature near here is very high, you can see the CPU's temp. mostly high at 70 Celsius, this may melt our tape.
2. We can easily control the thickness.
Sorry for my bad English. I hope you understand, if you have any question, I'm glad to help. :highfive:
Ok thank you! I will give it a try soon
So, now, do you get any new dust after this procedure? And if you do the test with the paper from the left (to see if it is well fitted), is it ok now??
Thanks for this!
I'm going to give it a go soon. I've been having some earpiece issues so I'll have a look at the connections while I'm at it. Is the earpiece speaker relatively easily accessible?
Dust started accumulating in my front camera. It has affected the camera quality. I can't understand the tutorial well. Can anybody make a video tutorial of this?
dh33r4j said:
Dust started accumulating in my front camera. It has affected the camera quality. I can't understand the tutorial well. Can anybody make a video tutorial of this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, video would be great
Thank you for the tutorial, having the same problem.
Just in case I didn't undestand well: we are using tape just to make pressure on the camera so the dust can't get there, right?
Thank you!!
Thanks a lot ,just did everything and worked perfectly of course,now I can take selfies again thanks for the tutorial!!!So easy,guys dont be afraid ,at least nothing happened to me .
Thanks for this. I didn't "pull" both sides apart after reaching the headphone socket, but i gently pushed one side away from the other with one hand, and continued on the other side of the headphone socket with a fingernail, and like that it popped open completely. Cleaned it with a cotton swab (making a rotating motion between my fingers as i "polished" the glass.
It was actually a lot less scary than i imagined. I even managed to put the tiny stickers back on the screws
I broke the mid frame do you guys know where to get sparepart?
cpeterjohansson said:
I broke the mid frame do you guys know where to get sparepart?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it useless now? Did some of the electronics get damaged, or just the plastic? If just the plastic, can't you use special glue?
I just checked Aliexpress, but i don't see the part you need. On the other hand, the phone is very cheap now (€120) and maybe you can find a second hand phone or a bricked phone for cheap?
ozfunghi said:
Is it useless now? Did some of the electronics get damaged, or just the plastic? If just the plastic, can't you use special glue?
I just checked Aliexpress, but i don't see the part you need. On the other hand, the phone is very cheap now (€120) and maybe you can find a second hand phone or a bricked phone for cheap?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I fixed with glue but there was black sticker with some metal thats not there anymore. Dont know what it is thou, maby some heat stuff?
Great work friend..IT was fairly easy than what I thought. Cleaned the front camera as you mentioned in the steps. I used 2 pieces of Double sided tape to fit the camera module. Many thanks for bringing this brilliant tutorial. I am very happy to get my clean camera back on my 8 months old RMN2.......Cheers!!
Can I suggest this tutorial video to disassemble RN2? I found it very useful to rid off dust on front camera, and then, as mentioned here, I put a piece of isolating tape to protect the camera module.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3C4hs-XPdQ
Very great
Thanks for helping clearing dust at front camera

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