[USER Tips] Nook HD+ teardown with images (+ video) - Nook HD, HD+ General

Apologies. My English is not a professional!
Hi.
I token apart many mobile and tab items. This one was so easy to do.
If you crack or broke something when you take apart your Nook HD+ then all responsibility goes only for you. My guide is only for knowledge base.
You lose WARRANTY when you take apart your device!
Ok, lets start.
Tools you need:
1. Plastic Triangle Pry Tool
2. Plastic Pry Tool
3. Torx T5 Screwdriver
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1. Take Plastic Triangle Pry Tool and place it to screen on bottom side where screen bezel corner is cut off. VERY GENTLY push the Plastic Triangle Pry Tool behind bezel and screen.
Be aware! Plastic Bezel is very soft and you can broke bezel legs. About which legs I talk, you see on 7 step pictures.
2. Don't take away Plastic Triangle Pry Tool. Move around the entire inside of the plastic bezel. You hear how double sided tape be open.
3. Again don't take away Plastic Triangle Pry Tool. Push it VERY GENTLY more inside, but be aware you can broke little bezel plastic leg.
4. You see that bezel corner goes up at body. Now push Plastic Pry Tool at another side behind bezel and body and remove Plastic Triangle Pry Tool
5. Place Plastic Triangle Pry Tool at outside behind body and bezel and move around the entire outside of the plastic bezel. You again hear how double sided tape be open.
6. Now gently remove bezel at body. You need gently help with Plastic Pry Tool.
7. Hard part is done and this is how looks bezel and legs. These legs are around bezel.
8. Take Torx T5 Screwdriver
9. Unscrew the all screws (marked green on picture) except red marked screws on picture. If you unscrew these screws you can broke one copper foil which one makes ground/background to WiFi antenna.
All screws are same size!
10. Now take Nook to left hand power button side to down and with Plastic Triangle Pry Tool GENTLY detach backside plastic cover a little bit at body. Be aware battery is attached to backside plastic cover and you can broke battery connector on motherboard if you use here power on detach.
11. With right hand fingers GENTLY move battery power cable at mainboard. Place all pieces GENTLY to table.
12. All done. Now it look like this!
Enjoy!
YouTube video example
http://youtu.be/HpVrds3g-M8
When you place back Plastic bezel, you need replace 3mm Double sided tape around bezel. I used this one 3M Sticker tape Double sided tape Adhesive For housing touch screen LCD 3mm
You are welcome to redistribute it but ask for consent before!
I try monitor this thread and reply.

Thanks! I've done a few screen-ectomies in my past, and this will be a useful guide if I need to again. The question I have, did you get it back together?

I can't tell from the Pic. Is that space in the center right a Ram slot that might allow and increase to 2 gig? A Rom upgrade looks like it might be simple also.
edit: my mistake - the the ram slot is actually the Battery contact.

dbh369 said:
Thanks! I've done a few screen-ectomies in my past, and this will be a useful guide if I need to again. The question I have, did you get it back together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This baby opened second time for making this guide. Yes i can make reverse guide too but i dont see reason. Because there are nothing to do. Just put all back. And YES, it works.
One thing have which one i write on monday. You need 3mm double sided clear or black 3M tape to replace tape on bezel.

Nuor60 said:
I can't tell from the Pic. Is that space in the center right a Ram slot that might allow and increase to 2 gig? A Rom upgrade looks like it might be simple also.
edit: my mistake - the the ram slot is actually the Battery contact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are there even ram modules for tablets being sold? With which form factor are we dealing here?
If it can be upgraded though it would be great news, 1 gig is rather constraining.

Added video and link for example 3M double sided 3mm tape.

Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...

OyaNET said:
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your point?

datas0ft said:
What is your point?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Point is, that I love my HD+, but I miss standard micro USB connection and wireless charging.
I'm already running late on a few projects of mine but after seeing the pics I cant get rid of the thoughts of hardware hacking my HD+ to integrate the above features.
BTW. I'm really grateful for the teardown pictures and description.

OyaNET said:
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go for it, then quit your day job! Lol.
Better yet, build a converter adaptor, micro usb female to Nook 30-pin male, then we could use the HD+ for USB hosting.

thanks!

is screen replacement possible?
I am looking at your pictures to determine if it is possible to replace a cracked screen. I dropped mine on the concrete sidewalk and the glass cracked.:crying: The functionality is fine, the lcd was not damaged, just the "glass" (or plastic more likely). I would like to replace it with a new one, but if it is really impossible to do without breaking parts such as the foil ground wire, etc, then I guess I will put up with a cracked screen. Do you think it is really feasible to replace the lcd and digitizer? Thanks.

could i charge the battery directly?

loverppc said:
could i charge the battery directly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Nook HD+ is not charging anymore since one week. Battery goes low now, only green light no orange, tried 2 original power adapter, is it possible to recharche batterie without the internal charging electronics with an external one or is it possible to connect 5v power adapter directly to nook hd+?
thanks!

retaped down the bezel on my HD Plus
nice guide

Is the N home button accessible through this method, or is that built within the screen making it difficult to access? My N button on a Nook HD+ is not very responsive and has to be pressed hard to get it to work (purchased it on ebay), anyone know if this is fixable? I have a Nook HD as well which was brand new and that one's button is very responsive and works with the slightest of touch.

Ok, so i opened my Nook HD+ up and the micro switch is definitely accessible, but it needs to be replaced as the previous owner seems to have been a bit too harsh with it. Anyone know where i can get an exact replacement? I've replaced car fob key micro switches before, so this shouldn't be an issue.
Here's a photo from the Nook Tablet, the switch is the same in the HD+ (it's about an inch above the USB)
http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/BWtQHPQKynJJROds

Does anyone know where I could buy one of the connectors to attach the digitizer's flexi ribbon to the motherboard?

Mine fast shutdown when in use, despite fully charged. And cannot be tured on, unless plugged in. Use while wired id's fine throughout.
is that battery issue?
Any generic battery module to recommend that can fit?
Dimensions of battery pack please?

Just buy a used Nook. They are fairly cheap. Harvest a battery out of one with a broken screen perhaps.

Related

Samsung Epic 4G Screen Repair Take Apart Guide

This screen repair guide will allow you to safely and quickly repair damaged touch screen digitizer, LCD (AMOLED), and other internal parts of your Samsung Epic 4G. Disassemble your Epic 4G and get your Samsung smartphone working like new again!
This guide will help you to install the following Samsung Epic 4G part(s):
Samsung Epic 4G LCD & Touch Screen Glass Digitizer Assembly
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Torx Screwdriver
Samsung Epic 4G Take Apart Guide:
Remove the back battery cover by pressing in the button at the bottom of the phone, which will then loosen the cover. Then, you can remove the battery.
Now remove the back housing by removing six (6) screws that are holding it in place. There is one located at each corner and one on the center of each side.
Using the safe open pry tool, carefully insert the open pry tool in the crack between the back housing and the front housing of the phone. Start at the bottom, and gently loosen, working your way all the way around the phone. Then remove the back housing by pulling it gently away from the front part of the phone.
Next, use the open pry tool to unlock the keyboard and antenna clips. These are located at the left side of the motherboard, and appear as flat pieces of metal. Using the open pry tool, carefully insert it beneath them and press upward, to bend them into a straight up position instead of flat with the board as they currently are.
Figure 1
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Then you will disconnect the antenna wire, which appears as a small white wire on the right side of the battery location (shown in figure 1). Using nippers, gently pull up on the top and bottom parts of this wire to disconnect it from the phone. Do not fully remove it, simply disconnect it and leave it as it is.
Remove the loud speaker from the bottom of the phone by removing one small screw on the bottom left that holds the loud speaker in place.
At this point, everything should be disconnected so that you can gently remove the entire motherboard from the phone’s housing.
Remove the keyboard frame by removing four screws from the center of the phone. Two of these are located in the black plastic beneath where the motherboard was located. Then, removing the sticker beneath the battery housing (as shown in figure 2) with the safe open pry tool to reveal two more screws that need to be removed. Then, gently pull up on the keyboard frame and it should come off without difficulty.
Figure 2
Now you will remove the C side housing by removing four screws located in a row, beneath the flex cable that is still hanging in place. Then you can remove the C side housing, but be careful not to damage the flex cable as it maneuvers through the hole.
Remove the slide rail by removing four screws, one at each corner. Two of these screws have rubber round covers that will need to be removed with nippers and placed aside. Use the open safe pry tool to pry apart at the top and bottom of the phone. Then move to the sides, where there are six (6) total clips holding the slide rail in place-3 on each side. Using the open pry tool, careful pry apart the sides, being careful not to damage the flex cable. Try to have all sides pried apart before pulling off the slide rail.
Now remove the slide rail flex cable by using nippers to remove the small blue pieces of tape, as shown in figure 3.
Figure 3
The odd-shaped black cable beneath the tape is the slide rail flex cable. By removing the front camera flex cable gently (a beige small cable located behind the camera lens) with nippers, you will be able to pry up the last end of the slide rail flex cable, and gently remove it.
Now you're Samsung Epic 4G will be completely taken apart allowing you to install any replacement parts you have purchased. Keep all parts together in the order you took them apart, and simply reverse the order to put the phone back together.
This should be stickied lol, very good guide, I just hope I never have to use it .
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
+1 Sticky request
Sent from my MIUI V4 Epic 4G via Tapatalk 2 beta 4
Thanks guys!
Glad you found it useful!
Nice guide! Ive done multiple screen replacements on the Epic and other phones and will say that this is a good start. As i recall... dont you have a youtube video explaining this??
EDIT: hmmm i couldnt find it so i guess not lol sorry!
travmofosho said:
Nice guide! Ive done multiple screen replacements on the Epic and other phones and will say that this is a good start. As i recall... dont you have a youtube video explaining this??
EDIT: hmmm i couldnt find it so i guess not lol sorry!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad you liked it!
We didn't do a video for the Epic however we did do a video for a couple of other Samsung phones which were very similar models and process for the screen replacement.
A few months ago the local Sprint store replaced the screen on my phone. Now the screen is loose on one side and doesn't quite sit square. Not sure if something loosened up or is bent or what, but this guide will be useful as I take the phone apart and try to tighten up the slider.
Thanks.
Nice. minor point...
repairsuniverse said:
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Trox Screwdriver
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is spelled Torx.
LargePrime said:
Nice. minor point...It is spelled Torx.
[/LIST]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Typo fixed.
I've taken apart several Epics, not using this guide although I wish I would have lol, so I know that there are some very detailed steps involved. Thank you very much for creating this thread and taking the time to write up a how-to! I am a strong advocate of doing-it-yourself so this kind of thing makes me glad that there are others who refuse to pay exorbitant amounts of money for repairs that could be done on your own, for much cheaper.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
2 errors in this guide, just trying to help out from a Sprint tech standpoint.
A T5 screwdriver is not needed. All the screws in the SPHD700 are Phillips.
Removing the speaker is unnecessary. Sure if you need to replace the speaker, but removing the plate that houses the keyboard components does not require the speaker to be removed. It's best practice not to unless necessary, simply because the speaker has a cable component underneath that snaps into a corresponding cable on the keyboard; failure to ensure it sits properly will of course prevent your speaker and vibrator from working.
Heretofore, removing the bottom end of the white antenna wire from the speaker is also unnecessary.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
Just wondering - where is everyone ordering replacement parts from?
Perhaps when this info is answered it could be added to the OP so that all the info is in one nice easy to find area
altimuh said:
Just wondering - where is everyone ordering replacement parts from?
Perhaps when this info is answered it could be added to the OP so that all the info is in one nice easy to find area
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Samsung Epic replacement parts can be found here - Samsung Epic Replacement Parts
Hope this helps.
Great guide
Thanks for such a great write up.
blamethenetwork said:
Thanks for such a great write up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem.
Glad you found it useful.
When my phone is in landscape mode the swype doesnt work when im swyping say the word android where i have to slide left and right. I dont know what the internals of the epic4g is made up of but im guessing theres a digitizer or sensor part under the outer screen. Could it be the problem or is there some app for calibrating the touch screen where im having trouble getting the word to complete through long left and right swype movements? I used the dev tools to test the areas i touch and it appears fine but not very accurate but doesnt seem like im having bad areas on the touchscreen.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA
Does anyone have any experience replacing just the glass without replacing the LCD and digitizer? I cracked my glass and eBay has the part for very cheap, but sprint wants $100 deductaple to replace the phone. I'm wondering if the LCD and glass are bonded together.
zman0900 said:
Does anyone have any experience replacing just the glass without replacing the LCD and digitizer? I cracked my glass and eBay has the part for very cheap, but sprint wants $100 deductaple to replace the phone. I'm wondering if the LCD and glass are bonded together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I've heard is the digitizer is so close to the screen or glass its really impossible to do it with out error... you'd have to get the whole deal and replace it.
Also might want to drop TEP as it requires a deductible and get a third party protection plan...
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
ÜBER™ said:
From what I've heard is the digitizer is so close to the screen or glass its really impossible to do it with out error... you'd have to get the whole deal and replace it.
Also might want to drop TEP as it requires a deductible and get a third party protection plan...
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Went ahead and payed the $100. The cable that connects the two haves of the slider was sticking out of the case, so I took the phone apart to try plugging it back in hoping I could at least make the cracked screen light up. Turns out the cable was broken too, so I figured it would be cheaper to just get the replacement. Thanks for that 3rd party plan idea. I'll have to look into that for my next phone.
cm9eq
zman0900 said:
Went ahead and payed the $100. The cable that connects the two haves of the slider was sticking out of the case, so I took the phone apart to try plugging it back in hoping I could at least make the cracked screen light up. Turns out the cable was broken too, so I figured it would be cheaper to just get the replacement. Thanks for that 3rd party plan idea. I'll have to look into that for my next phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I'm buying my gnex from wirefly and they offer a premium protection plan for 7.50 a month and it covers everything... theft, damage, etc. With NO deductible. not bad...
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium

Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab Screen Take Apart Repair Guide

Does your outer touchscreen for Galaxy Tab has been damaged or cracked? This take apart repair guide shows you how to disassemble the Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab cell phone quickly and safely. This guide can assist with the installation of replacement parts.
This guide will help you to install the following Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab part:
Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Tri Wings Screwdriver
Small Philips Screwdriver
Adhesive Stips (For Touch Screen Digitizer Replacements)
Samsung P1000 Galaxy Tab Take apart guide:
There are two screws at the bottom of the unit, and under two small plastic discs, use your small blade to remove this. With the discs remove you can use your tri wings screw drivers to remove the two screws as shown in Figure 1.
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Figure 1​
Using your case opener tool begin to pry the back case of the unit be careful the buttons on the sides start from the bottom and work your way around.
With the back case remove, you can now remove the battery, the battery is held to the motherboard with the single screw and the connector, use your Philip screw driver to remove the screw and your case opener tool to pry the connector free, and gently pull the battery from the unit.
There are seven screws that you'll need to remove from the motherboard as shown in Figure 2. You can now remove the six ribbon connectors on the motherboard. These connectors for the back facing camera. After removing the connector gently pull up and the camera will come up as well.
Figure 2​
These connectors for the back facing camera. After removing the connector gently pull up and the camera will come out as well. With the screws and connectors remove, you can now lift the motherboard from the unit.
Carefully remove the ribbon cable for the LCD from the connector on the back of the screen assembly. Use your case opener tool to pull out the plastic tab.
You can now apply heat to the outside edges (front of device). We suggest using a heat gun or hair dryer. 30 seconds to a minute is all you will need to loosen the adhesive. Immediately use a safe open pry tool on the outside edges of the screen and the housing. Re-heat if necessary.
Remove the housing from the screen assembly. You can now use a safe open pry tool to release the touch screen from the LCD screen. Apply heat if needed.
Your Samsung Galaxy Tab P1000 is now disassembled and the appropriate parts can be replaced.
To reassemble, follow this guide in reverse.
Simply reverse the order to put the phone back together.
Thanks, useful. Been looking for something like this. Using guitar pick...
Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk
fluffmonster said:
Thanks, useful. Been looking for something like this. Using guitar pick...
Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Glad it helped!!
What kind of adhesive is used to re-attach the digitizer
I just stuck a cheap 1 $ Screen guard on my tab... as it was bigger in size than my tab... i had to use a cutter to cut it and so i inserted the cutter in between the panel and the glass digitizer in all the four sides for cutting the extra part of screen guard.... and today after a week i saw the digitizer coming off the tab.... pls help me wat to do... the four corners of he digzer and the inside panel are still a bit sticky....
What kind of adhesive is used to re-attach the digitizer. Or maybe the soft gasket around the display melts and becomes the adhesive under heat?
Hi
Repaired two of mine and on went perfectly but the other has mess with green but if I push down on the tab screen then it is perfect.
Been debating weather to take apart again and resit everything. Also noticed on LCD itself there is a like loose liquid pattern ( if you know what I mean) nor to sure if they are connected.
Regards
Here is the pic
if you can see the green pattern
now here is when I push the screen in slightly
Just wondering before I go and take apart again is there any point or is there anything you can advise?
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
saheb_mnm said:
I just stuck a cheap 1 $ Screen guard on my tab... as it was bigger in size than my tab... i had to use a cutter to cut it and so i inserted the cutter in between the panel and the glass digitizer in all the four sides for cutting the extra part of screen guard.... and today after a week i saw the digitizer coming off the tab.... pls help me wat to do... the four corners of he digzer and the inside panel are still a bit sticky....
What kind of adhesive is used to re-attach the digitizer. Or maybe the soft gasket around the display melts and becomes the adhesive under heat?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We recommend the adhesive strips here to create a secure bond. These are the correct thickness strips for the touch screen. Digitizer adhesive strips
fluffmonster said:
Thanks, useful. Been looking for something like this. Using guitar pick...
Sent from my GT-P6800 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's pretty clever, really. Not sure why I haven't thought of using a guitar pick rather than stocking up on "Special Service Tools."
do u deliver in india????
repairsuniverse said:
We recommend the adhesive strips here to create a secure bond. These are the correct thickness strips for the touch screen. Digitizer adhesive strips
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
do u deliver in india????
---------- Post added at 12:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:31 PM ----------
alexgogan said:
Hi
Repaired two of mine and on went perfectly but the other has mess with green but if I push down on the tab screen then it is perfect.
Been debating weather to take apart again and resit everything. Also noticed on LCD itself there is a like loose liquid pattern ( if you know what I mean) nor to sure if they are connected.
Regards
Here is the pic
if you can see the green pattern
now here is when I push the screen in slightly
Just wondering before I go and take apart again is there any point or is there anything you can advise?
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I Just want to know wat glue u used to stick the screen back....
how did u stick the Touch Digitizer...???
I got 3M 2mm double sided tape for this, Repair Universe screen I think comes with the tape on it, and if it doesn't its about $4
alexgogan said:
I got 3M 2mm double sided tape for this, Repair Universe screen I think comes with the tape on it, and if it doesn't its about $4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank You ... i am just wondering where can I get it.....
Deliver to India?
saheb_mnm said:
do u deliver in india????
Sorry we do not ship to India.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey what keyboard dock are you using?
It's one I sourced from China could not get what I wanted so am bringing in a few of them to sell on my site when it's launched later this month, have seen a few on eBay though but were not as good.
Regards
Sent from my LT26i using XDA
Sorry it took so long but we do ship to India now. Chat with us on our site for immediate assistance.
saz542 said:
thank You ... i am just wondering where can I get it.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We carry the adhesive strips on our site. A link to the site can be found in our signature below.

TF300 Back removed

Well I got bored and since I couldn't find any pictures of the insides of the TF300 I took the cover off, it was a lot simpler than I thought it would be. The volume button and power button are attached so you don't have to worry about them falling out of the cover.
There are just a bunch of clips holding the back on and all I did was slip my spudger in between the seam around the screen and it started popping apart.
I did start on the bottom and the opposite side of the volume rocker and then just worked my way around it.
Only took about 5 minutes being careful the first time around. Would only take a minute or two now since I know how easy this thing comes apart.
If you do this be sure to remove your micro SD card first though.
I didn't go any further than just remove the back, really didn't feel like doing a full tear down and didn't want to remove the warranty sticker either.
Putting it back on only takes a minute.
The one thing that did surprise me was the amount of finger print smudges there were on the copper strips and the metallic coating on the underside of the cover, they definitely weren't mine , so much for using gloves.
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Here's the direct links to the full sized images.
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7640/005esp.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/6397/006kt.jpg
nice
i always wonders how it look like o the inside. by any chance are you planing to crawl to the cpu and gpu?
Unless I get really bored I probably won't tear it down any further.
The CPU/GPU look to be under the large copper shield and it's stuck down pretty good. I'd definitely would bend it up really bad trying to get it off as it's very thin, and on the lower edge of it there's a warranty sticker so I wouldn't want to damage it.
Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic
turdbogls said:
Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can find a white or red one on eBay then yes it is. There are no components on the cover itself except for a heat dispersion pad. That's it.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Just a thought... Could the bootloader encryption be on a chip?
obsidianchao said:
Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The copper foil is probably used as dual purpose, heat spreader and EMI shielding. The piece over the CPU/GPU does have a black plastic backing insulating it from other components. But I couldn't tell if the copper foil was in direct contact with the CPU/GPU or not with the way it was stuck down, and I didn't want to pry up on it as it would bend out of shape very easily.
Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..
DuneBug said:
Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are a couple pictures posted in OP, I updated it to include links to the full sized images.
Oh oops, Opera mobile wasn't showing the pics till u added the links..
Very interesting, everything is clean and tight hehe.
Thanks
Yes a back replacement for those who like to mod would be cool!
Nice. If they were ever to sell the red one I would look for the red back. Lol. That's the one I really wanted but couldn't resist.
Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using XDA
There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?
psjw12 said:
There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/
chili_red said:
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look for a port to put a 3g receiver
poor quality control on these items
archondragon said:
hey can you post a youtube video man on how to disassemble it? i am seriously having a touch screen issue, i'm afraid to take it apart unless i see a video on how to do it, but so far i found none. hopefullly maybe you can show.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9
LOL
You got some nerve!
I’m very afraid of taking apart my electronics. (Sloppy hands)
You know who assembles for ASUS? Because I’ve seen pictures of FOXXCON workers wearing gloves, or fingertip cover if not whole gloves.
Ripped mine apart today.
Buster99 said:
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dropped mine three days after I got it - doesn't take a hit very well.. Still powers up and operates but glass/touchscreen is shattered and no touch response, so it's basically a doorstop..
Ripped into it after seeing this post - no video of the process though, sorry.. Getting the back off is indeed easy.. Video connector is right there and easy to get to in order to re-seat if you suspect a bad connection.. It is the metallic micro-connector that actually has wires and is taped down with a clear tape.
Also, touchscreen plastic ribbon connector is also easy to get to in order to re-seat.. It is the wide plastic strip type ribbon (with internal wiring strips) that ends up splitting into two connections with little foam rubber pieces on top of them to keep them from backing out.. When you pull the connections out, as I did today, it's good to know how they work. The two touchscreen headers (connectors) on the pcb are a hinged/clamping type. The back of the connector (away from the ribbon) hinges up and the ribbon is free.
Anyway, removing a shattered touchscreen is a bear - lots and lots of sticky adhesive. Double-sided sticky tape (half inch wide) holding the touchscreen to the flimsy plastic bezel all the way around, and double-sided sticky foam (2mm wide) holding the touchscreen to the TFT display assembly all the way around.
I need confirmation, please, from anyone; is this touchscreen for the TF300 the same one used for the TF201. I would assume it is, but do not want to order one based on an assumption.. I have the whole unit reassembled and working w/o touchscreen. Installing it will be miles easier than taking it out for sure..

Nexus 7 (2013) Take Apart Repair Guide

Is the screen on your Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) cracked or broken? You can repair the screen or other internal parts and components with this in depth repair guide. The guide will take you through each crucial step that will be essential in effectively performing a successful and safe opening of your device and repair nearly any desired part.
This guide will aid your installation of the following Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) parts:
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) LCD Screen Replacement
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) LCD + Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Essential Tools:
Safe Pry Opening Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver (#00)
Heat Gun/Hair Dryer
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) Tear Down Guide:​
In order to get started with the repair you will first need to completely power down your device.
After the device is powered down you can start separating the unit's back cover from the screen assembly and also the motherboard.
Due to the fact the two are sealed together very firmly on this model, it may be very advantageous to begin with a small knife to release the first clips.
Normally if you start on the side of the device you will find it to be the easiest route. Next step use your pry tool to wedge between the seams around the sides and corners of the device until the back cover detaches from the tablet. Also be sure not to pry near the USB port located on the base.
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After you have removed the back cover from the tablet, simply use your pry tool to release the battery connector which is found on the top right side of your device. This is done to be certain that the device is totally powered down.
Next you will use a Small Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the four (4) Small Phillips screws which are depicted in red in the figure below.
Also depicted below in the figure are the remaining flex cable connections which are colored green. Use your pry tool to release the flex cable connections. It is important to use caution and remove the connections while avoiding tearing any of the cables.
Once the flex cables are released, you will be able to carefully take out the battery and the housing it is located in.
Now that the cables have been released you will be able to detach the five (5) connections colored in green below using your pry tool, as well as extract all the screws (seventeen of them) from both the top and bottom motherboard components using your Small Phillips screwdriver.
Something to be aware of is the fact that the Small Phillips screws are unequal in size so it will be very important to keep them separated to ensure that the screws are later placed in the correct spots.
After you have removed the screws, you will then use your pry tool to take out the bottom motherboard component (Figure 3.1 ), along with the loud speaker underneath the motherboard (Figure 3.2).
You will find another connector under the loud speaker and using the pry tool can release it. Holding this part down is adhesive tape which needs to be cautiously removed (Figure 3.3) and this will make it possible to pull out the long orange flex cable.
Then using your pry tool carefully take out the top motherboard component. It is important to be certain all connections have been released from this piece to ensure that none of the flex cables release while you remove the motherboard.
Following the removal of the top motherboard component, you will then be able to remove the top speaker underneath it, which is displayed in Figure 3.5.
The last part you will need to extract from the housing is the button flex cable found on the left side. Using your pry tool, lightly press against this cable in order to release the cable that is bound to the housing with adhesive (Figure 3.6). After this piece is removed it will be possible to begin taking the glass touch screen off of the the housing.
Prior to taking off the screen, you will need to use a heat gun (on low) or a hair dryer to heat up the sides and corners of the device for approximately 40 seconds to 1 minute, this will make sure the tablet is not excessively heated. Once the device is heated up the adhesive that holds the screen together will noticeably loosen.
Next, after the sides and corners have been heated up, use your pry tool to shim in between the housing and the screen assembly, and be sure to run the tool around the sides of the entire device.
Finally, substitute in the new parts while discarding damaged parts and simply reverse these steps in order to reassemble your device back together.
RepairsUniverse's Repair Guides are for informational and learning purposes only. Perform this repair at your own risk.
Cool guide! This will be useful not only for general repairs, but also for those of us who want to do hard-mods.
Now I just have to buy one. The end of the month can't come fast enough...
Taking the back cover off looks to be a pain and almost impossible without doing damage. They are very well built.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
This guide is excellent.
Well, it happened. Screen broke just by setting it down face-up on the pavement. These devices are incredibly fragile.
Is there any retailer that currently sells the replacement glass/digitizer? I am not thrilled to pay more than I paid for the device to have it repaired ($208!)
kgraves22 said:
Well, it happened. Screen broke just by setting it down face-up on the pavement. These devices are incredibly fragile.
Is there any retailer that currently sells the replacement glass/digitizer? I am not thrilled to pay more than I paid for the device to have it repaired ($208!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We're expecting to receive parts for this device. Check back with us soon.
Orange cable
Hey this is sweet! In figure 3.3 I am curious to know what that flex cable is for. Thanks.
repairsuniverse said:
We're expecting to receive parts for this device. Check back with us soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome. Is there any possibility you can give me a rough estimate for the part and for full repair? I am subscribing to this thread so I will be looking for your reply when the parts become available. Thank you very much.
By the way, if you ever need information on parts, flashing, or programming for Cricket Communications, I am your man!
Thank you so very much, I've had this device for 10 days and I'm pretty much devastated.
kgraves22 said:
Awesome. Is there any possibility you can give me a rough estimate for the part and for full repair? I am subscribing to this thread so I will be looking for your reply when the parts become available. Thank you very much.
By the way, if you ever need information on parts, flashing, or programming for Cricket Communications, I am your man!
Thank you so very much, I've had this device for 10 days and I'm pretty much devastated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll have a better idea when we get the parts in. I'll try and keep you updated or you can visit my website from the link in my signature.
repairsuniverse said:
I'll have a better idea when we get the parts in. I'll try and keep you updated or you can visit my website from the link in my signature.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever get parts? I need to order a new screen and digitizer for 2nd gen nexus 7.
Thanks
combres said:
Did you ever get parts? I need to order a new screen and digitizer for 2nd gen nexus 7.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We're still waiting... We have had alot of customers asking the same question.
Does the back cover feel more loose if you snap it back on after taking it off? Or is it still solid?
I need a digitizer only not sure how difficult that is to fix though....
That screen + lcd replacement cost more than what the actual N7 cost at any store. wow
gypsy214 said:
That screen + lcd replacement cost more than what the actual N7 cost at any store. wow
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah that price is horrible
keilflex said:
Yeah that price is horrible
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found this place called xcubicle that replaces the screen and lcd undearneath for 189.00 better price than going to pay 350 for a new one.Also go on etradersupply they sell the screen for cheaper
How adventagious is it to put a tiny plate of copper on where the CPU is? Im not sure how much room there is but my CPU tends to get in the 70c range when browsing at 1.9ghz. I feel like there's be reason to add a chunk of copper to attempt to reduce temps for a little bit before it starts to throttle...
Same here!
kgraves22 said:
Well, it happened. Screen broke just by setting it down face-up on the pavement. These devices are incredibly fragile.
Is there any retailer that currently sells the replacement glass/digitizer? I am not thrilled to pay more than I paid for the device to have it repaired ($208!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you find any seller? I also got my nexus's screen cracked and looked for replacement some site even said 600$ come on who is going to pay that much for screen ... the cheapest i got was 208 $ so even that is high for a device this cheap... so if you or anyone got some idea where and how to get replacement glass/digitizer that will be great help. (LCD is just working fine so why to buy lcd but all of them include lcd which i think makes it expensive. )
Buy a new tablet.
Keep the broken one for a year, spare part will be cheaper.
sk8trix said:
I need a digitizer only not sure how difficult that is to fix though....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can go to our site and find the piece your looking for as well as get a free pry tool for the job. We also have a tutorial video you can follow to help you in fixing your phone and have "live chat" support so you can easily get help if needed. But on newer phones we don't recommend getting just the digitizer as it can be a little more difficult to separate from the LCD, and to prevent further issues or complications, it may be worth your time and money to get the combination LCD and Digitizer.

[TUT] Get rid of the Dust in Front Camera

Hi, everyone. This time I'm gonna show you how to dismantling your Redmi Note 2 and how to avoid letting dust in the front camera.
You can simply check if you'll get this trouble by this way:
Cut a slice of paper by scissors or your hair and try to stick into left of the receiver. If you can stick into it, then your front camera will be dusty someday.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First, these are the tools you need:
1. Your RN2
2. Scissors
3. Double-sided tape
4. Foam rubber tape (Optional)
5. Alcohol
6. Tiny Screwdriver
7. Glasses cloth
8. Fingernail
9. Patient
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Let get started!
First, screw up "12" tiny screws, two of it has stickers on it. I don't even want to send back China to repair it, so don't worry about the stickers.
now, you have to use your nail stick into the left corner of the phone, then follow the slit between main-board base and main-board cover.
You should slit the left side till the "volume + " button and stop here.
Now, stick into the first place and start to slit right, you'll meet right down corner, then keep on.
Keeps slit to the right up corner near the screw hole than stop here.
Here's the most difficult part, you should carefully hold both side of the cover and slowly pull up them by your prefer hand.
The other hand, again use your nail to slit into it, this would be hard, so be patient and carefully, or you'll brake your main-board cover into two piece
After you finish previous step, it is getting easy now.
What I point out is the front camera module, carefully pick it up with your nail , you can clean the dust now
Be very carefully that don't bend the cable or you'll screw all up :silly:
Use whatever you like to clean up the space between camera and glass.
Now, times to seal it up!
Use the double-side tape to stick on the back of the front camera module
First, cut it to fit the size of camera and stick on it one by one. Don't forget to remove both of the sticker.
I use 4 piece of the tape. Remember, don't remove the last sticker of the tape!
After that, you can put back your camera module.
Now, you can put back your main-board cover and try to boot your device, if it boot up and nothing hurt, then you are free to go :good:
All the pics took by my old Lenovo A820
Hello!
First of all thank you for the tutorial. I am going to use it for sure - I don't want to send it back either!
I don't have to do the test, I already have dust
So, there are two things that i need you to clarify for me, if possible.
1. I find this part "You should slit the left side till the "volume - " button and stop here.
Now, stick into the first place and start to slit right, you'll meet right down corner, then keep on.
Keeps slit to the right up corner near the screw hole than stop here." really difficult. I found this myfixguide.com/manual/xiaomi-redmi-note-2-teardown/ that doesn't say that it's hard, but I tottaly trust you.
So, when I meet with my nail the volume - , then I stick my nail "more inside" (sorry for this)? And when you say left and right, you mean as I look the phone from the back, right? From which corner do I start?
2. In the last photo, i can't see how you plase the tape, which is the most important I guess.
Can you upload a video or pictures on the route your nail followed to open the device please? Of course not open it again, from the outside, just to be sure.
Thank you in advance and for your time. Hope we will find a solution for this problem
AntwnisGr said:
Hello!
First of all thank you for the tutorial. I am going to use it for sure - I don't want to send it back either!
I don't have to do the test, I already have dust
So, there are two things that i need you to clarify for me, if possible.
1. I find this part "You should slit the left side till the "volume - " button and stop here.
Now, stick into the first place and start to slit right, you'll meet right down corner, then keep on.
Keeps slit to the right up corner near the screw hole than stop here." really difficult. I found this myfixguide.com/manual/xiaomi-redmi-note-2-teardown/ that doesn't say that it's hard, but I tottaly trust you.
So, when I meet with my nail the volume - , then I stick my nail "more inside" (sorry for this)? And when you say left and right, you mean as I look the phone from the back, right? From which corner do I start?
2. In the last photo, i can't see how you plase the tape, which is the most important I guess.
Can you upload a video or pictures on the route your nail followed to open the device please? Of course not open it again, from the outside, just to be sure.
Thank you in advance and for your time. Hope we will find a solution for this problem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry about not clearly explained the detail of how to tear down.
1.
Here's the route how I tear down my device, and sorry I just modify the image to show you this because I don't have my second device now.
It is easy to stick your fingernail into left bottom corner, and do like the image shows. On left side, you'll reach "volume + " (sorry it is "+" not "-" , my bad.)and near infrared blaster, and on the other side, you'll reach near 3.5 mm audio hole.
It is not recommend to keeps using your nail to slit the upper side because you can see the gap is not a straight line , you should hold both side near the position like the image below and using one hand on it like to open your back cover while using the other hand's nail to stick into the gap to helping the opening.
2.
Paste the tape on the back of the camera like I circle out. Just on the square.
It is not means there's no anti-dust washer, but it is not tie enough to make it seal, paste tapes on the back of camera just to push the camera module more close to the glass to make sure that washer works.
On the other hand why I don't recommend using foam rubber tape, some may ask this should works better than double-side tape.
1. Temperature near here is very high, you can see the CPU's temp. mostly high at 70 Celsius, this may melt our tape.
2. We can easily control the thickness.
Sorry for my bad English. I hope you understand, if you have any question, I'm glad to help. :highfive:
Ok thank you! I will give it a try soon
So, now, do you get any new dust after this procedure? And if you do the test with the paper from the left (to see if it is well fitted), is it ok now??
Thanks for this!
I'm going to give it a go soon. I've been having some earpiece issues so I'll have a look at the connections while I'm at it. Is the earpiece speaker relatively easily accessible?
Dust started accumulating in my front camera. It has affected the camera quality. I can't understand the tutorial well. Can anybody make a video tutorial of this?
dh33r4j said:
Dust started accumulating in my front camera. It has affected the camera quality. I can't understand the tutorial well. Can anybody make a video tutorial of this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, video would be great
Thank you for the tutorial, having the same problem.
Just in case I didn't undestand well: we are using tape just to make pressure on the camera so the dust can't get there, right?
Thank you!!
Thanks a lot ,just did everything and worked perfectly of course,now I can take selfies again thanks for the tutorial!!!So easy,guys dont be afraid ,at least nothing happened to me .
Thanks for this. I didn't "pull" both sides apart after reaching the headphone socket, but i gently pushed one side away from the other with one hand, and continued on the other side of the headphone socket with a fingernail, and like that it popped open completely. Cleaned it with a cotton swab (making a rotating motion between my fingers as i "polished" the glass.
It was actually a lot less scary than i imagined. I even managed to put the tiny stickers back on the screws
I broke the mid frame do you guys know where to get sparepart?
cpeterjohansson said:
I broke the mid frame do you guys know where to get sparepart?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it useless now? Did some of the electronics get damaged, or just the plastic? If just the plastic, can't you use special glue?
I just checked Aliexpress, but i don't see the part you need. On the other hand, the phone is very cheap now (€120) and maybe you can find a second hand phone or a bricked phone for cheap?
ozfunghi said:
Is it useless now? Did some of the electronics get damaged, or just the plastic? If just the plastic, can't you use special glue?
I just checked Aliexpress, but i don't see the part you need. On the other hand, the phone is very cheap now (€120) and maybe you can find a second hand phone or a bricked phone for cheap?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I fixed with glue but there was black sticker with some metal thats not there anymore. Dont know what it is thou, maby some heat stuff?
Great work friend..IT was fairly easy than what I thought. Cleaned the front camera as you mentioned in the steps. I used 2 pieces of Double sided tape to fit the camera module. Many thanks for bringing this brilliant tutorial. I am very happy to get my clean camera back on my 8 months old RMN2.......Cheers!!
Can I suggest this tutorial video to disassemble RN2? I found it very useful to rid off dust on front camera, and then, as mentioned here, I put a piece of isolating tape to protect the camera module.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3C4hs-XPdQ
Very great
Thanks for helping clearing dust at front camera

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