We have a whole forum devoted to software mods, but little talk about hardware mods, so I thought I would share mine and invite others to do the same (large or small):
Touchstone Mod
As a former Palm Pre owner, when I jumped to Android I never gave up my love of inductive charging using the "Touchstone" accessory that was available for the Pre (1) (2) and I wasn't about to start now:
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The finished product was pretty svelte:
(the top piece of tape is to improve friction on the touchstone -- the bottom one provides friction and covers the charging circuit which is flush with the outside of the case (if anyone wants a detailed rundown of the procedure or just wants to gawk at the internal bits I can post details and photos of the touchstone mod).
Car Mount
Touchstone mod out of the way, it was time to mount it in the car. There were some issues here. Specifically, how could I position the relatively large Galaxy note in a place that was: 1.) easy to see and manipulate, 2.) not in the way of my shifter, and 3.) not crowding the passenger?
In the end I used mounting hardware designed for my GoPro camera to get the touchstone into the right place and then I added some Sugru around the touchstone to expand the contact surface, add friction and shape it to the back of the phone:
Finished product:
Easier to Hold
I have no problem holding and operating the Galaxy Note one-handed, but I wished that the back was less slick so that it would stick to my fingers better when I'm resting the phone in one hand. The solution here was simple: a vinyl sticker got the job done:
Easier to Extract S-Pen
The S-Pen is very handy but proved a bugger to get out of the silo. I decided that if I could get the S-Pen out of the phone quickly without looking or picking at it, I would use use it more often. A drop of epoxy proved to be the simple solution:
I like the rubbery grip that bare epoxy gives in this solution. If you would rather that it feel and look like the metal top of the S-Pen, wait until the epoxy is hard to the touch but tacky and rub graphite powder into it with a cloth or paper towel. The result will look exactly like the silver of the pen top.
That's mine -- let me see yours!
-darren
I can definitely see myself using a drop of epoxy. However, I'm intruiged by the touchstone idea. Can you give a little more detailed photos, and maybe what process you went through to achieve it?
Will do. I'll try to get that up in the next 48 hours.
-darren
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk
Hello, please post more pics of the Touchstone mod. I'm very interested in making a similar mod for my Note.
+another for the touchstone mod. Have an extra lying around here. I also like your epoxy idea. Can you detail how you got such a nice clean drop there?
I'm considering making a bedside landscape dock. Do you know if the Note responds to magnets to put it in Desk Clock mode?
Thanks for your patience. I decided to post the details of the touchstone mod on AC since that's where I posted my last two mods and the editors gave me some love by publishing my last one to the front page. I feel that I owe 'em.
Here's a link to the full thread:
Galaxy Note Touchstone Mod [Photo heavy]
Feel free to comment or ask questions in either forum -- I'll watch both.
To answer undrwater's questions: I just got lucky when I put the epoxy on. It's pretty thick stuff and it could have just as easily have wound up a mess. I used the 5-minute set epoxy, in case that's a unique property of the faster setting type.
As for the Note responding to magnets, I haven't seen it behave differently in the presence of the Touchstone dock so I would guess not. That said, I expect the compass would go nuts so perhaps that can be programmed to detect a magnet, in the same way that some apps use it as a metal detector.
I placed the touchstone charging coil too low on the phone to allow for it to be rotated into the landscape orientation but I don't think there would be any problem moving the coil to the middle of the phone to allow for that. The phone will come on when it senses that it's charging and that's an event that you can probably trap with Tasker to accomplish what you want in the form of a bedside clock.
-darren
Touch stone issue
Daren ( I think thats your name)
I recently finished my touchstone mode to my att galalxy note. Everything went smooth for the most part.
Except the back cover and the speaker box!
The back cover had to have a circle completely cut into it.
The speaker did not work at first then i had to bend up the connections so they would touch.
My biggest and most disappointing issue could be a number of things.
When I was finally finished and touch the phone to the touchstone it would only charge the phone for a matter of 30 - 45 seconds before stopping and then restarting some time later.
It got extremely annoying to hear my phone go on and off charge. Also after an hour of this my phone was negative 3 percent from how much battery the screen used when the charge notifier powered it on.
I'm not sure if this is because the wire i used was too thin. or if the outlet that powered the touchstone wasn't strong enough? (it's on a power strip, shouldn't be the issue but you never know)
I had the coil completely touching with the foil that was provided.
This whole thing really pissed me off considering i spent the better part of a day for something that barely worked. Not to mention 100$'s in the hole.
What do you think? Thanks in advance.
I'm sorry that the mod went that poorly but it should be salvageable.
I'm trying to picture the issue with the speaker box as you describe it. Is it possible that the wires pinched somewhere and are keeping the speaker box from seating correctly against the PC board? That would likely cause other fit issues. You should be able to look at it and tell if there's a gap. If so, shave away a little more plastic to make room for your wires.
When you say that the back cover had to have a hole cut in it, was this for the coil? Did the coil not fit between the back and the battery? I have the studs, coil, foil part and electrical tape all sandwiched together between the back cover and the battery area with virtually no distortion of the back. The only thing I had to cut out was the area where the charging circuit goes. If you can post a photo or a link to a photo I might be able to help you more on this.
Finally, regarding the actual charging -- it can be problematic but you can almost always get it working. First, unsolder the wires connecting the charging coil circuit to the wires leading to the phone so that you can work with just the battery door and touchstone. Next, solder some short leads to the charging coil circuit and run these to a multimeter. Set the multimeter to measure DC voltage in the 5V range. Now, place the back onto the touchstone and watch what happens to the voltage.
The charging coil has to be centered on the touchstone just as it was in the original back. Now that you are working with just the back on the touchstone, the coil and studs are looking at you so you can experiment by positioning the metal studs in different locations to get the coil centered just right. Once you are getting steady voltage on the meter, glue them down again and then wire it back to the phone and you should be in business.
It helps to have a few extra Touchstones/backs to experiment with. I have run into one case where a particular touchstone would only work with one or two of my Pre backs, even before moving the parts into a new phone, and I've learned a lot through trial and error (like the fact that the flat foil piece from the Pre is a necessary component).
If you can post or link to some photos, I can probably give you better assistance. Good luck!
-darren
Oh, by the way -- I just noticed that your mod was on an AT&T Note. Mine was on an International Note which is likely to be similar but the photos I've seen of the AT&T Note show more bits around the speaker box (antennas?) and a slightly different arrangement at the USB port where I attached my wires. I would suggest tracing out the ground and 5VDC wires from the USB-micro port (if you haven't already) to make sure that your chosen attachment points are correct.
-darren
One more one more thing: the AT&T Galaxy Note has an NFC antenna in the battery IIRC. I don't know how that will affect the operation of an inductive charging coil. My only point of reference is the Nexus S 4G that I put a touchstone coil in. I found that if the charging coil was on the *outside* of the phone, with the NFC coil on the inside of the back cover, both operated OK. When the Touchstone coil was sandwiched between the NFC coil and battery, the inductive charging, NFC or both failed to work.
Click here to see my report on modding the Nexus S.
In your case, the order of things mirrors my success with the Nexus S 4G, but your charging coil and NFC will be virtually in contact while they were separated by the rear door plastic on my Nexus S 4G. If the NFC coil is causing trouble, then the back will work, as currently configured, when you take it off the phone and put it on a meter. Let me know what you find.
-darren
RE - Problems with I717 TouchStone Mostly Fixed
Hey Daren, It's Chris.
Thanks for your quick replay. I got everything working, and your completely right. The Positioning of the coil is very important. However. Not as important as the positioning of the foil that was provided with the coil. It turns out that the foil has to be the exact same plan as the coil. and has to hang over the edges of the coil. e.g. the foil cannot be exactly the same size circle as the foil. Thats what caused my issues. I also had to place the coil WITH the foil on the back side of the battery door, and the board on the inside of the battery door. Anyway i'm still testing. I'll let you know how it goes.
Interesting fact. "Battery Mix" Says charging - 36 Min to 100% ( +54.5% p/h ) That's a huge rate of charge. I'm wondering if the capsitor is stopping the charge because the flow rate is too great. Thats why it shuts on and off? Let me know what you think.
Thanks again!
-Chris,
That's great news! That charging rate seems crazy high though. Without hardware or software modification, the phone usually limits charging to 0.5A. If you figure out what is going on maybe you can bottle it and sell it.
-darren
Related
it fits perfectly and feels good
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Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
link? price?
kmetek said:
link? price?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got mine in Wisconsin at Staples store for $40. Or you could order form staples.com
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
I have the case. Not super crazy about it, but better than the tablet being it's naked slippery self. Tight fit getting it on or off, but still slips in the case just a tiny bit in use. The slipping causes things like the front facing web cam will not be aligned it its port.
The actual opening to get the tablet inside is at the bottom of the case when the cover is open in "stand mode" so that can allow the above mentioned slipping also.
The stand function is passable, but I think the angle it creates is a bit too shallow and causes the screen to catch glare from overhead lights. I would like if it stood the tablet a little more upright to escape that glare.
I've seen a very similar case for the iPad series, so we are not alone.
So, not perfect, but better than nothing.
isn't it the same thing like the official ipad 1 case last year
timehunter said:
So, not perfect, but better than nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed. I kinda like mine but would really prefer a slim well fitting leather folio. One nice feature of the case is it doesn't weigh much, so your tablet still feels very light in your hand, which is never the situation with a leather case.
The stand angle is definitely crap though - if I set it on my desk at work it invariably reflects the overhead lights into my eyes. The ability to adjust it even slightly would make that easier.
And agreed - the tablet sure moves around inside the case a lot considering how tight it fits.
the stand position is actually pretty nice for me. i use it at my desk at home (with lamp light, no overhead) so thats probably why i like it. but the only thing i dont like is the cheaply velcro used (seems to undo to easily, i would prefer magnets like a cell phone case) and the slipping out during use. other than that i like it
I've got one of these too, and I noticed that if the slightest bit of anything gets on it, it looks ugly. It was on a table when a bottle of soda got spilled, only a few drops hit it, and you can see exactly where those drops hit it at.
As far as the case goes, it would be a lot better if the flap was magnetic, and if there was something for it to catch on on the back when it's flat. It's obnoxious to have to deal with putting it into the stand shape when you're just holding it to check your e-mail.
netham45 said:
I've got one of these too, and I noticed that if the slightest bit of anything gets on it, it looks ugly. It was on a table when a bottle of soda got spilled, only a few drops hit it, and you can see exactly where those drops hit it at.
As far as the case goes, it would be a lot better if the flap was magnetic, and if there was something for it to catch on on the back when it's flat. It's obnoxious to have to deal with putting it into the stand shape when you're just holding it to check your e-mail.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At least the case did its job and protected the tablet from your soda damage. Also, the case cleans pretty easily with a damp cloth.
Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk
I have had the Acer case for a couple of weeks. It feels like wetsuit material. but does the job, and it is easy to wipe any dirt off it. I did cut a inverted 'V' so that the microphone was not obstructed.
All the ports are easy to get to but, nevertheless, exposed. So, I wanted a sleeve that I could slip the tablet into when placing it in my briefcase, and I found the attached at a store that sells Japanese goods (the case is actually from China.) See attached photo.
This fits the A500 in the Acer case very nicely, and good enough to take into a meeting.
The cost of the case: $1.50.
ps. The store is Daiso Japan and the item is Plastic Case (B5) 497 990 9845 486. Nothing unique about it and I am sure you can find similar ones around from other stores.
I bought this case and am not too thrilled about it. I already have an Arkon stand so the built-in stand function is kind of useless, and really just makes that side of the cover really flimsy. The case attracts too much "stuff" and degrades the look of the product and it doesnt fit like a glove as you'd think. I also dont like how it doesnt cover up the bottom of the A500 at all, nor the fact that if you dont use the stand fuction, the tablet has a tendency to fall out of the case, since its on "backwards."
that... and the smell... ugh.
Amazon has it on sale today for 29 bucks
http://www.amazon.com/Acer-Iconia-A...14JA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1307123390&sr=8-2
second that on the smell i bought a 10 inch netbook bag today to replace the case
I have the official case and am about to ditch it for a folio style from ebay.
Not only does it look tatty when it is on, it's almost impossible to clean the screen with it on, as all the dust etc collects in the corners, and constant removal and replacement has stretched the opening so I now have the dreaded 'slide' effect.
In addition to this, obviously something abrasive has got between the screen and the case (still waiting for my screen protector to arrive) and put a tiny gouge in the screen on the black bezel near the docking connector - rather knocking on the head the assertion that this is covered in 'Gorilla Glass'.
And lets be honest, the Iconia is a beautiful looking bit of kit, and putting it in the official case makes it look rubbish.
In all, 30 quid wasted!
This case is pretty much garbage. I've had it as long as it's been out and here's the low-down...
When you get it, it reeks. I thought that the shipment of cases was accidentally dropped in a puddle of gasoline. But it turned out that was just from the material the case was made of. It did go away eventually though. It took about 30-40 days but now my case is reek-free.
The second problem was the slip issue. The tab slides down at about 3-4mm, which may not seem like a lot, but it's actually the perfect annoying amount. It causes the front camera to be blocked by the case itself, the speakers to not line up correctly, the bottom part of the front side of the case comes close to blocking you from using the task bar buttons efficiently, and the ambient light sensor is blocked. Some members on here have recommended double sided tape, but don't waste your time. It just slows the slipping down and it doesn't stick to well to the case material. Now I have an entire roll of Scotch double-sided tape that I will never use. However, I have found great success with heavy duty Velcro. I bought a pack with two strips from Staples and used half of one of the strips, cut into 2 and popped them on either side of the Acer logo on the back of the unit. It holds okay with the case material, creates just enough wedge pressure in the back, while allowing you to take the tablet out of the case if you really want to. My front camera and taskbar buttons have not been blocked at all since implementing this Velcro. One user here mentioned that they did some sewing and sewed the unit into the case at the opening and that works well. If my Velcro doesn't work as a more subtle solution long-term, I may go in that direction. I can't help but wonder if the case was made upside-down, would we have the slip problems at all (the opening is at the bottom when you hold it naturally).
The best thing about this case, though (and why I keep bothering to attempt to fix it) is that I love its stand features. The stand on the back is nice, and frankly, better than some of those ugly alternative bulky stands out there. I can stand it up on the table while sitting and eating, or flip it upside down and use the slighter stand to ramp it up just enough while laying down in bed.
Sent from my A500 using XDA Premium App
I bought this case a while back and have not had any problems with it. It's easy to clean with a damp cloth, and protects my tablet. I have not had any issues with my tablet slipping yet. The stand also seems to be stable enough for me. The one thing I did do though was remove the Velcro and glue two tiny rare earth magnets in their place. Now the case snaps shut and stays shut. I wish I could add one more magnet to keep the cover open when holding the tablet.
ReganH22 said:
I bought this case a while back and have not had any problems with it. It's easy to clean with a damp cloth, and protects my tablet. I have not had any issues with my tablet slipping yet. The stand also seems to be stable enough for me. The one thing I did do though was remove the Velcro and glue two tiny rare earth magnets in their place. Now the case snaps shut and stays shut. I wish I could add one more magnet to keep the cover open when holding the tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since implementing the Velcro solution mentioned in my previous post, no interference from slipping! Recommend!
Yeah I might try the Velcro if I start having problems with it slipping.
Well I got bored and since I couldn't find any pictures of the insides of the TF300 I took the cover off, it was a lot simpler than I thought it would be. The volume button and power button are attached so you don't have to worry about them falling out of the cover.
There are just a bunch of clips holding the back on and all I did was slip my spudger in between the seam around the screen and it started popping apart.
I did start on the bottom and the opposite side of the volume rocker and then just worked my way around it.
Only took about 5 minutes being careful the first time around. Would only take a minute or two now since I know how easy this thing comes apart.
If you do this be sure to remove your micro SD card first though.
I didn't go any further than just remove the back, really didn't feel like doing a full tear down and didn't want to remove the warranty sticker either.
Putting it back on only takes a minute.
The one thing that did surprise me was the amount of finger print smudges there were on the copper strips and the metallic coating on the underside of the cover, they definitely weren't mine , so much for using gloves.
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Here's the direct links to the full sized images.
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7640/005esp.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/6397/006kt.jpg
nice
i always wonders how it look like o the inside. by any chance are you planing to crawl to the cpu and gpu?
Unless I get really bored I probably won't tear it down any further.
The CPU/GPU look to be under the large copper shield and it's stuck down pretty good. I'd definitely would bend it up really bad trying to get it off as it's very thin, and on the lower edge of it there's a warranty sticker so I wouldn't want to damage it.
Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic
turdbogls said:
Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can find a white or red one on eBay then yes it is. There are no components on the cover itself except for a heat dispersion pad. That's it.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Just a thought... Could the bootloader encryption be on a chip?
obsidianchao said:
Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The copper foil is probably used as dual purpose, heat spreader and EMI shielding. The piece over the CPU/GPU does have a black plastic backing insulating it from other components. But I couldn't tell if the copper foil was in direct contact with the CPU/GPU or not with the way it was stuck down, and I didn't want to pry up on it as it would bend out of shape very easily.
Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..
DuneBug said:
Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are a couple pictures posted in OP, I updated it to include links to the full sized images.
Oh oops, Opera mobile wasn't showing the pics till u added the links..
Very interesting, everything is clean and tight hehe.
Thanks
Yes a back replacement for those who like to mod would be cool!
Nice. If they were ever to sell the red one I would look for the red back. Lol. That's the one I really wanted but couldn't resist.
Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using XDA
There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?
psjw12 said:
There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/
chili_red said:
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look for a port to put a 3g receiver
poor quality control on these items
archondragon said:
hey can you post a youtube video man on how to disassemble it? i am seriously having a touch screen issue, i'm afraid to take it apart unless i see a video on how to do it, but so far i found none. hopefullly maybe you can show.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9
LOL
You got some nerve!
I’m very afraid of taking apart my electronics. (Sloppy hands)
You know who assembles for ASUS? Because I’ve seen pictures of FOXXCON workers wearing gloves, or fingertip cover if not whole gloves.
Ripped mine apart today.
Buster99 said:
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dropped mine three days after I got it - doesn't take a hit very well.. Still powers up and operates but glass/touchscreen is shattered and no touch response, so it's basically a doorstop..
Ripped into it after seeing this post - no video of the process though, sorry.. Getting the back off is indeed easy.. Video connector is right there and easy to get to in order to re-seat if you suspect a bad connection.. It is the metallic micro-connector that actually has wires and is taped down with a clear tape.
Also, touchscreen plastic ribbon connector is also easy to get to in order to re-seat.. It is the wide plastic strip type ribbon (with internal wiring strips) that ends up splitting into two connections with little foam rubber pieces on top of them to keep them from backing out.. When you pull the connections out, as I did today, it's good to know how they work. The two touchscreen headers (connectors) on the pcb are a hinged/clamping type. The back of the connector (away from the ribbon) hinges up and the ribbon is free.
Anyway, removing a shattered touchscreen is a bear - lots and lots of sticky adhesive. Double-sided sticky tape (half inch wide) holding the touchscreen to the flimsy plastic bezel all the way around, and double-sided sticky foam (2mm wide) holding the touchscreen to the TFT display assembly all the way around.
I need confirmation, please, from anyone; is this touchscreen for the TF300 the same one used for the TF201. I would assume it is, but do not want to order one based on an assumption.. I have the whole unit reassembled and working w/o touchscreen. Installing it will be miles easier than taking it out for sure..
Apologies. My English is not a professional!
Hi.
I token apart many mobile and tab items. This one was so easy to do.
If you crack or broke something when you take apart your Nook HD+ then all responsibility goes only for you. My guide is only for knowledge base.
You lose WARRANTY when you take apart your device!
Ok, lets start.
Tools you need:
1. Plastic Triangle Pry Tool
2. Plastic Pry Tool
3. Torx T5 Screwdriver
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1. Take Plastic Triangle Pry Tool and place it to screen on bottom side where screen bezel corner is cut off. VERY GENTLY push the Plastic Triangle Pry Tool behind bezel and screen.
Be aware! Plastic Bezel is very soft and you can broke bezel legs. About which legs I talk, you see on 7 step pictures.
2. Don't take away Plastic Triangle Pry Tool. Move around the entire inside of the plastic bezel. You hear how double sided tape be open.
3. Again don't take away Plastic Triangle Pry Tool. Push it VERY GENTLY more inside, but be aware you can broke little bezel plastic leg.
4. You see that bezel corner goes up at body. Now push Plastic Pry Tool at another side behind bezel and body and remove Plastic Triangle Pry Tool
5. Place Plastic Triangle Pry Tool at outside behind body and bezel and move around the entire outside of the plastic bezel. You again hear how double sided tape be open.
6. Now gently remove bezel at body. You need gently help with Plastic Pry Tool.
7. Hard part is done and this is how looks bezel and legs. These legs are around bezel.
8. Take Torx T5 Screwdriver
9. Unscrew the all screws (marked green on picture) except red marked screws on picture. If you unscrew these screws you can broke one copper foil which one makes ground/background to WiFi antenna.
All screws are same size!
10. Now take Nook to left hand power button side to down and with Plastic Triangle Pry Tool GENTLY detach backside plastic cover a little bit at body. Be aware battery is attached to backside plastic cover and you can broke battery connector on motherboard if you use here power on detach.
11. With right hand fingers GENTLY move battery power cable at mainboard. Place all pieces GENTLY to table.
12. All done. Now it look like this!
Enjoy!
YouTube video example
http://youtu.be/HpVrds3g-M8
When you place back Plastic bezel, you need replace 3mm Double sided tape around bezel. I used this one 3M Sticker tape Double sided tape Adhesive For housing touch screen LCD 3mm
You are welcome to redistribute it but ask for consent before!
I try monitor this thread and reply.
Thanks! I've done a few screen-ectomies in my past, and this will be a useful guide if I need to again. The question I have, did you get it back together?
I can't tell from the Pic. Is that space in the center right a Ram slot that might allow and increase to 2 gig? A Rom upgrade looks like it might be simple also.
edit: my mistake - the the ram slot is actually the Battery contact.
dbh369 said:
Thanks! I've done a few screen-ectomies in my past, and this will be a useful guide if I need to again. The question I have, did you get it back together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This baby opened second time for making this guide. Yes i can make reverse guide too but i dont see reason. Because there are nothing to do. Just put all back. And YES, it works.
One thing have which one i write on monday. You need 3mm double sided clear or black 3M tape to replace tape on bezel.
Nuor60 said:
I can't tell from the Pic. Is that space in the center right a Ram slot that might allow and increase to 2 gig? A Rom upgrade looks like it might be simple also.
edit: my mistake - the the ram slot is actually the Battery contact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are there even ram modules for tablets being sold? With which form factor are we dealing here?
If it can be upgraded though it would be great news, 1 gig is rather constraining.
Added video and link for example 3M double sided 3mm tape.
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
OyaNET said:
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your point?
datas0ft said:
What is your point?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Point is, that I love my HD+, but I miss standard micro USB connection and wireless charging.
I'm already running late on a few projects of mine but after seeing the pics I cant get rid of the thoughts of hardware hacking my HD+ to integrate the above features.
BTW. I'm really grateful for the teardown pictures and description.
OyaNET said:
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go for it, then quit your day job! Lol.
Better yet, build a converter adaptor, micro usb female to Nook 30-pin male, then we could use the HD+ for USB hosting.
thanks!
is screen replacement possible?
I am looking at your pictures to determine if it is possible to replace a cracked screen. I dropped mine on the concrete sidewalk and the glass cracked.:crying: The functionality is fine, the lcd was not damaged, just the "glass" (or plastic more likely). I would like to replace it with a new one, but if it is really impossible to do without breaking parts such as the foil ground wire, etc, then I guess I will put up with a cracked screen. Do you think it is really feasible to replace the lcd and digitizer? Thanks.
could i charge the battery directly?
loverppc said:
could i charge the battery directly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Nook HD+ is not charging anymore since one week. Battery goes low now, only green light no orange, tried 2 original power adapter, is it possible to recharche batterie without the internal charging electronics with an external one or is it possible to connect 5v power adapter directly to nook hd+?
thanks!
retaped down the bezel on my HD Plus
nice guide
Is the N home button accessible through this method, or is that built within the screen making it difficult to access? My N button on a Nook HD+ is not very responsive and has to be pressed hard to get it to work (purchased it on ebay), anyone know if this is fixable? I have a Nook HD as well which was brand new and that one's button is very responsive and works with the slightest of touch.
Ok, so i opened my Nook HD+ up and the micro switch is definitely accessible, but it needs to be replaced as the previous owner seems to have been a bit too harsh with it. Anyone know where i can get an exact replacement? I've replaced car fob key micro switches before, so this shouldn't be an issue.
Here's a photo from the Nook Tablet, the switch is the same in the HD+ (it's about an inch above the USB)
http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/BWtQHPQKynJJROds
Does anyone know where I could buy one of the connectors to attach the digitizer's flexi ribbon to the motherboard?
Mine fast shutdown when in use, despite fully charged. And cannot be tured on, unless plugged in. Use while wired id's fine throughout.
is that battery issue?
Any generic battery module to recommend that can fit?
Dimensions of battery pack please?
Just buy a used Nook. They are fairly cheap. Harvest a battery out of one with a broken screen perhaps.
In case anyone feels like taking their RAZR HD apart, here are some instructions:
1. Get the following items together first:
Little dish, to hold screws & parts so they're not lost
"T-5" torx screwdriver
Plastic or thick wooden toothpicks, for gently prying connectors apart
A box to hold the screen/pcb/etc. so they won't get damaged
2. Use the torx screwdriver to remove the two screws on the bottom.
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3. This little plastic trim is going to fly out of the phone, so point it at your dish on the next step so it doesn't land under your couch.
4. Hold the phone like you'd hold a newspaper, and slide the screen up. (Like it was a slider phone). It should move about 1/4"
5. The screen will now unfold from the back. It's attached with 2 ribbon cables. You remove the cables by pulling on them
6. The screen is now detached. Put it in a box on a high shelf out of your way so it's not lost or stepped on.
7. There are 10 black screws to remove. Use your T-5 Torx screwdriver. Put all of them into your dish of safekeeping.
8. The metal camera clip (item 2) is now loose. Put it in your dish.
9. Remove the clear plastic over the speaker connector (item 1). It is held on with medium adhesive, you can use a thin blade to pry it away from the plastic. Put it in your dish.
10. Pry the button ribbon cable (item 3) off the PCB, it is held with a light adhesive. Then pull it out of the connector in the direction of the arrow (HINT: see maxx pictures)
11. Here is the button ribbon cable detached
12. The speaker cable plug is held in a "U" shaped channel. You detach it by pulling it towards you (away from the back of the phone). (HINT: see maxx pictures)
13. (optional) You can remove the camera by pulling the ribbon cable up. Not recommended- they are kind of annoying to re-attach.
13. Remove the plastic cover over the battery ribbon cable. It is held on with light adhesive.
14. Push/pull the battery cable down to detach it. (HINT: see maxx pictures) Remember to use plastic/wood to do this- when shorted, these batteries can literally melt metal instantly.
15. With the 2 ribbon cables + speaker cable disconnected, you can now remove the PCB
16. The battery is attached with double-sided tape. You have to pry it out by pulling on the sides. There are 2 "battery removal" stickers on the battery which suggest that is where you should pry. However, I found that I could most easily pull up the upper-left corner, which would let me put my fingers underneath to pull it off. Regardless of how you go about it, be gentle, as the battery is somewhat malleable (like clay) so you want to bend it as little as possible
17. The locations of the double-sided tape- a little on top, and a bigger one on the bottom
18. The speaker is held in place with a light adhesive.
Update:
The screen appears to be plastic-welded into its bezel in several spots. The speaker & LED are removable, but the screen is not:
Update:
Closer pictures of the back cover and chassis.
Also a picture of the EV30 battery electronics, for those considering attaching an induction charger. The arrows are:
Red: Where the battery leads are soldered. Clearly we can't attach charger there because it would bypass the safety electronics
Yellow: Snugly plugs into a socket on the PCB- no place to attach charging
Green: Where the plug is attached to electronics. Your best option.
Razr HD MAXX Teardown
Are you nervous about taking apart your Razr HD MAXX? No worries, it's exactly the same as the regular version. Let's go to it!
Remove screws and slide up
Unfold the screen and detach
Close-ups of the PCB
Prying up the speaker connector
Prying up the button cable
Pushing down the battery connector. Once it's pushed down this far, you can pry it up from underneath (where the arrow points).
PCB removed, and close-ups of the battery sitting in the battery tray
The MAXX battery: model EV40 ... 3300mAh!
Convert RAZR HD -> RAZR HD MAXX
Are you interested in frankensteining your RAZR HD to have the MAXX battery? YES, it can be done! You don't even have to remove the battery or speaker.
Once you have remove the PCBs from both phones, the back panels are an identical layout.
The MAXX back is slightly taller
Re: Razr HD Teardown
Grant2, did u so that little tutorial yourself? If so request a sticky for that bro that's good stuff!!!
If u didn't, ALWAYS source your info, especially for stuff like that
Sticky. Great job
icenight89 said:
Grant2, did u so that little tutorial yourself?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes the pictures + text are all mine. Have the higher-resolution pix but i downsized them all to 640x640 to fit on the forums.
Thanks for the compliments!
Thanks for posting them up man.
Great job - Grant2..Jut a small remark: I notice that the battery is 2460 mAh in your picture, and not 2530 mAh as the spec suggested.
Its 2460/2530 mAh. I wonder what does that mean.. does it mean its in between this?
Re: Razr HD Teardown
Motorolalover said:
Its 2460/2530 mAh. I wonder what does that mean.. does it mean its in between this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think our right, 70 mAh is is pretty small amount, could be a margin of error?
Motorolalover said:
Its 2460/2530 mAh. I wonder what does that mean.. does it mean its in between this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"2460/2530 mAh (min/typ)" ... i take that to mean:
2460 mAh = minimum (guaranteed by the manufacturing process and/or quality assurance testing)
2530 mAh = typical (most batteries will have this amount)
What's interesting is the "9.3/10Wh (min/typ)", which has double the tolerance (7%) as the mAh (2.8%)
2460 mAh @ 3.8v = 9.3Wh
2530 mAh @ 3.8v = 9.6Wh
So I suspect that the package, for whatever reason, overstates the "typical" Wh slightly.
Thanks! I was waiting for a teardown to give me an idea of how repairable it is. I will probably get one soon...
One thing tho: Is the screen fused with the front glass? Is it also fused with the carcass? (meaning that if it breaks of the touch stops you have to replace the WHOLE front assembly)
I believe all AMOLED displays works that way, but it doesn't hurt to ask...
I wonder if we had a vzw maxx HD if we could just slap the back onto the xt925, battery and all so I would't have to pry all the electronics off the maxx back just to use it?
@grant2 excellent work dude. thanks a lot.
You said ask for pictures if you need... here is mine..
can you take few more pictures of the back cover under the battery.
I am trying to figure out if i can squeeze an Qi or powermat receiver in there, maybe with some bulging... but not sure about the NFC and etc around the area.
cheers
amedeh123 said:
One thing tho: Is the screen fused with the front glass? Is it also fused with the carcass? (meaning that if it breaks of the touch stops you have to replace the WHOLE front assembly)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YES the display appears to be plastic-welded to the bezel! There is no obvious way to separate them. (see pics in main post)
I cannot determine if the glass is fused with display or not.
nippit said:
I am trying to figure out if i can squeeze an Qi or powermat receiver in there, maybe with some bulging... but not sure about the NFC and etc around the area.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
New pictures in the main post! Unfortunately I'm not sure they can give you the info you want...
007shark talks about putting a magnet on the cover in this post: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=34805593&postcount=17 so clearly there is room to put more in there.
The cover is already shaped thicker at the top, which is where the NFC is glued, so the battery tray is actually flat.
I don't think there is room for something about as thick as a credit card. The case can flex a bit, but only in the middle, so anything thicker than a credit card would have to be a decent amount smaller than the battery tray (which is 105mm x 58mm) for the flexing to give more room.
I could only find a picture of a Qi receiver for the Galaxy S3. If the pad you are thinking of using is the same dimensions as that, I expect it to fit. However, getting power to the battery is another issue. The EV30 battery plug has 4 pins and they fit snugly into the PCB. You can't really attach there.
It seems much more plausible to solder the receiver to the battery's electronics at the same place as its plug is soldered. You would need to use your voltmeter to identify which of the solder points actually connect to the + and - terminals on the battery. (See picture in 1st post). Once you've soldered the wires you can attach the receiver to the battery with the double-sided tape that's already on the battery.
If you attempt an install, please let us know how it goes.! This sounds like a great mod.
Edit: I tried to reassemble phone with a credit card between battery & PCB. It was still too thick. I would guess you could fit approx. 1/2 credit card thickness, or approx. 0.35mm. However if you include the potential flex from the back cover this receiver probably could still fit.
grant2 said:
"2460/2530 mAh (min/typ)" ... i take that to mean:
2460 mAh = minimum (guaranteed by the manufacturing process and/or quality assurance testing)
2530 mAh = typical (most batteries will have this amount)
What's interesting is the "9.3/10Wh (min/typ)", which has double the tolerance (7%) as the mAh (2.8%)
2460 mAh @ 3.8v = 9.3Wh
2530 mAh @ 3.8v = 9.6Wh
So I suspect that the package, for whatever reason, overstates the "typical" Wh slightly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually not weird for the tolerance.
The voltage probably has some tolerance. So P=IR.
That is Power is equal to Voltage times Current.
So 2.460x3.8v = 9.4Wh
If we back into the number then we will assume 3.8V is the minimum voltage from the battery based on the specs.
Then that means you could have a voltage as high as 3.95 from the battery based on 10Wh.
The bottom line is that to get to 10Wh either the voltage or current capacity has to go up.
tech_head said:
Actually not weird for the tolerance.
The voltage probably has some tolerance. So P=IR.
That is Power is equal to Voltage times Current.
So 2.460x3.8v = 9.4Wh
If we back into the number then we will assume 3.8V is the minimum voltage from the battery based on the specs.
Then that means you could have a voltage as high as 3.95 from the battery based on 10Wh.
The bottom line is that to get to 10Wh either the voltage or current capacity has to go up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2.46ah x 3.8v = 9.348Wh. So I think you are rounding the wrong way.
I considered that variable voltage may be responsible for the discrepancy, and although there was some merit, I wasn't really convinced.
My EV30 battery has a voltage range of 3.51v -> 4.33v during discharge. This would produce an average voltage of 3.92v, assuming an even slope. If the slope were convex (i.e., voltage drops more slowly at higher voltages) the average could indeed be 3.95v.
The problems I have with the idea is:
1) voltage is controlled by the onboard electronics. Others might tell me if this isn't the case, but every EV30 battery should have _exactly_ the same voltage range (determined by controlling electronics), even if the capacities vary (determined by electrode materials). Therefore voltage cannot contribute to the delta between "min" and "typ" batteries.
2) why would the "min" Wh be calculated from 1 arbitrary voltage level (the one displayed on the label) and the "typ" be calculated from some other arbitrary voltage level (3.95v) that's not listed anywhere?
...
an interesting academic discussion, and perhaps one day someone in the battery manufacturing industry can confirm exactly how the numbers on the label were derived?
grant2 said:
YES the display appears to be plastic-welded to the bezel! There is no obvious way to separate them. (see pics in main post)
I cannot determine if the glass is fused with display or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Damn! I was hoping to remove the sand and crap that's stuck inbetween the bezel and screen!
Anyway, nice teardown! Thanks so much for taking the time and posting.
asd
i love my phone
Disclaimer: Read this thread completely before doing anything. I'm NOT responsible for any damage done to your device while doing this. DO IT ON YOUR OWN RISK. I'M ALSO NOT SURE IF THIS VOIDS YOUR WARRANTY OR NOT.
Hello everyone,
Like many of you, I ended up breaking my back glass of new Nexus 4. But being from India finding a replacement wasn't easy and if it was possible it wasn't cheap at all. So I did loads research and found just back glass lens only for cheap ($25 to India from China with free shipping) delivery time was fast got it within 10 days. I thought its cheap so its worth taking a risk. I was unable to find any guide online to replace just glass so I thought I'll make one here to help others out.
Requirement:
Back glass lens only replacement.
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T5 screw driver and few other tools to remove glass from back (As shown in picture below)
Adhesives remover, I used nail polish remover as I had nothing else and at least for me it worked well.
Adhesives to stick new glass on back, I used SYNTHETIC RUBBER BASED ADHESIVE as I had nothing else. But I suggest find something better than this.
Cover yourself properly(full pants, full sleeves shirt or tshirt, glooves, piece of cloth to cover your mouth and if possible eye gear too (You'll need this to protect yourself from small glass particles and glass dust) Basically cover yourself as much as you can, if you don't like to be in mess like me.
This is what removed glass looks like.
LEAST 2-3 HOURS of your time.
PS: You should do this in safe environment, glass is so thin while removing it can cause you serious harm(cuts, can fly into your eyes or mouth) It becomes powder form so if you're not careful you'll be left with glass dust all over you. Also Make sure NO children are around when you do this.
Lets get started.
1. You'll need to remove back door from nexus 4. You can either google how to do that or goto following link for xda guide
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2257896
2. Wireless charging coil and speaker grill is directly attached to glass. So you'll have to remove speaker grill first before removing glass from back and if possible charging coil too, if not you can remove it later like it did.
3. Now you can start removing glass out from where its broken or like me you can look under back door and you'll find 2 holes in upper part. Using something sharp punch through them. You can start from there then. Also make sure you don't use excessive force as plastic used in door is really weak, it can crack or break easily. So always support the part of door with finger from below while you're removing glass on top of it. This took me almost 1 and half hour to get this done. It will take time initially and will be hard but will get faster and easier as you'll get used to it. I removed glass from border of case and corners as it has somewhat plastic support below and left the glass on coil for last as its very delicate.
4. If you did as I did in pictures, you'll be left with charging coil and glass on it. I removed charging coil at this point from back door and removed glass really carefully. Removing glass from coil alone took me an hour. You can see some part of plastic protection of coil is removed while scrapping glass out, though I'm sure its still working fine, but still be really be careful while doing it. After done this is what you'll be left with.
5. Use Adhesives remover (in my case nail polish remover) to clean back door and charging coil. This is really important, as you need no residue left on it before putting new glass on. This is what it looked like after cleaning it.
6. After its all clean, Use Adhesive you chose and apply if on back door evenly and fit glass on it. if its rubber based like one i used let it dry for a bit before fitting glass on it. As rubber based ones takes time to dry. I did not apply adhesive on charging coil as some of its plastic protection was removed so I didn't wanted to take any chances. So I stick glass on back without charging coil and this is end result.
7. Now my back is ready, I stick speaker grill back on it and I just put charging coil on glass back without adhesive I didn't wanted it to be stuck with glass again as incase glass breaks again its pain in a** to remove it from glass. So i just place it in its place and put my phone back together again.
8. My phone is working perfectly fine now, fitting is not as original but that's cause of Adhesives I used. If you use better it will be just as brand new.
Below are few things you should keep in mind before doing this.
It took me least 3-4 hours to do this, was it all worth the pain? I was getting just a back without nfc and wireless charging for $75 shipped to India and original back door replacement with all equipment for $100+ neither were worth according to me and I didn't wanted to spend so much money on it either. I had back screen guard on when it fell, So all broken glass was behind guard and I further sealed it with clear tape so glass wasn't going anywhere and further it was in case. So no one could even see its broken. I fixed it cause I might be selling this phone to replace with Nexus 5 incase its worth an upgrade. Also I bought phone from USA as I was never gonna claim Warranty either so thinking if this will void warranty or not wasn't something I had to worry about. So making phone as good as new for $25 it was money well spent. Infact you can get this glass lens cheaper than what I spent depending on country you live it. Also there is risk to break the back door itself as its fragile. So please consider everything before you even try this. If you're careful enough I don't think you'll have problem doing this fix.
My phone is working perfectly fine now, tested everything besides wireless charging as I don't have wireless charger but nfc and all are working just fine.
I got my replacement from china and it came well packed thought should share with you guys incase you are wondering if its safe to get something so delicate from china.
If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'll try to help as much as I can. Hope this helpful to people. Good Luck with your repair
Arvin
Really useful. I do hope never to use it though btw how did u order it? I'm your neighbor from Pakistan, i might drop this thing like u unfortunately did. So was wanting to know that
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
WasifSal said:
Really useful. I do hope never to use it though btw how did u order it? I'm your neighbor from Pakistan, i might drop this thing like u unfortunately did. So was wanting to know that
Sent from my Nexus 4 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ebay.com
wow LOL what a freaking mess!
Damn, good job man.
exb0 said:
Damn, good job man.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks
arvinchugh said:
ebay.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Links or it didn't happen
I can't seem to find a good reliable ad actually :/
WasifSal said:
Links or it didn't happen
I can't seem to find a good reliable ad actually :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There you go.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140993242760?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649