Database Users

My SGN Hardware Mods [Photo heavy]

We have a whole forum devoted to software mods, but little talk about hardware mods, so I thought I would share mine and invite others to do the same (large or small):
Touchstone Mod
As a former Palm Pre owner, when I jumped to Android I never gave up my love of inductive charging using the "Touchstone" accessory that was available for the Pre (1) (2) and I wasn't about to start now:
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The finished product was pretty svelte:
(the top piece of tape is to improve friction on the touchstone -- the bottom one provides friction and covers the charging circuit which is flush with the outside of the case (if anyone wants a detailed rundown of the procedure or just wants to gawk at the internal bits I can post details and photos of the touchstone mod).
Car Mount
Touchstone mod out of the way, it was time to mount it in the car. There were some issues here. Specifically, how could I position the relatively large Galaxy note in a place that was: 1.) easy to see and manipulate, 2.) not in the way of my shifter, and 3.) not crowding the passenger?
In the end I used mounting hardware designed for my GoPro camera to get the touchstone into the right place and then I added some Sugru around the touchstone to expand the contact surface, add friction and shape it to the back of the phone:
Finished product:
Easier to Hold
I have no problem holding and operating the Galaxy Note one-handed, but I wished that the back was less slick so that it would stick to my fingers better when I'm resting the phone in one hand. The solution here was simple: a vinyl sticker got the job done:
Easier to Extract S-Pen
The S-Pen is very handy but proved a bugger to get out of the silo. I decided that if I could get the S-Pen out of the phone quickly without looking or picking at it, I would use use it more often. A drop of epoxy proved to be the simple solution:
I like the rubbery grip that bare epoxy gives in this solution. If you would rather that it feel and look like the metal top of the S-Pen, wait until the epoxy is hard to the touch but tacky and rub graphite powder into it with a cloth or paper towel. The result will look exactly like the silver of the pen top.
That's mine -- let me see yours!
-darren

I can definitely see myself using a drop of epoxy. However, I'm intruiged by the touchstone idea. Can you give a little more detailed photos, and maybe what process you went through to achieve it?

Will do. I'll try to get that up in the next 48 hours.
-darren
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk

Hello, please post more pics of the Touchstone mod. I'm very interested in making a similar mod for my Note.

+another for the touchstone mod. Have an extra lying around here. I also like your epoxy idea. Can you detail how you got such a nice clean drop there?
I'm considering making a bedside landscape dock. Do you know if the Note responds to magnets to put it in Desk Clock mode?

Thanks for your patience. I decided to post the details of the touchstone mod on AC since that's where I posted my last two mods and the editors gave me some love by publishing my last one to the front page. I feel that I owe 'em.
Here's a link to the full thread:
Galaxy Note Touchstone Mod [Photo heavy]
Feel free to comment or ask questions in either forum -- I'll watch both.
To answer undrwater's questions: I just got lucky when I put the epoxy on. It's pretty thick stuff and it could have just as easily have wound up a mess. I used the 5-minute set epoxy, in case that's a unique property of the faster setting type.
As for the Note responding to magnets, I haven't seen it behave differently in the presence of the Touchstone dock so I would guess not. That said, I expect the compass would go nuts so perhaps that can be programmed to detect a magnet, in the same way that some apps use it as a metal detector.
I placed the touchstone charging coil too low on the phone to allow for it to be rotated into the landscape orientation but I don't think there would be any problem moving the coil to the middle of the phone to allow for that. The phone will come on when it senses that it's charging and that's an event that you can probably trap with Tasker to accomplish what you want in the form of a bedside clock.
-darren

Touch stone issue
Daren ( I think thats your name)
I recently finished my touchstone mode to my att galalxy note. Everything went smooth for the most part.
Except the back cover and the speaker box!
The back cover had to have a circle completely cut into it.
The speaker did not work at first then i had to bend up the connections so they would touch.
My biggest and most disappointing issue could be a number of things.
When I was finally finished and touch the phone to the touchstone it would only charge the phone for a matter of 30 - 45 seconds before stopping and then restarting some time later.
It got extremely annoying to hear my phone go on and off charge. Also after an hour of this my phone was negative 3 percent from how much battery the screen used when the charge notifier powered it on.
I'm not sure if this is because the wire i used was too thin. or if the outlet that powered the touchstone wasn't strong enough? (it's on a power strip, shouldn't be the issue but you never know)
I had the coil completely touching with the foil that was provided.
This whole thing really pissed me off considering i spent the better part of a day for something that barely worked. Not to mention 100$'s in the hole.
What do you think? Thanks in advance.

I'm sorry that the mod went that poorly but it should be salvageable.
I'm trying to picture the issue with the speaker box as you describe it. Is it possible that the wires pinched somewhere and are keeping the speaker box from seating correctly against the PC board? That would likely cause other fit issues. You should be able to look at it and tell if there's a gap. If so, shave away a little more plastic to make room for your wires.
When you say that the back cover had to have a hole cut in it, was this for the coil? Did the coil not fit between the back and the battery? I have the studs, coil, foil part and electrical tape all sandwiched together between the back cover and the battery area with virtually no distortion of the back. The only thing I had to cut out was the area where the charging circuit goes. If you can post a photo or a link to a photo I might be able to help you more on this.
Finally, regarding the actual charging -- it can be problematic but you can almost always get it working. First, unsolder the wires connecting the charging coil circuit to the wires leading to the phone so that you can work with just the battery door and touchstone. Next, solder some short leads to the charging coil circuit and run these to a multimeter. Set the multimeter to measure DC voltage in the 5V range. Now, place the back onto the touchstone and watch what happens to the voltage.
The charging coil has to be centered on the touchstone just as it was in the original back. Now that you are working with just the back on the touchstone, the coil and studs are looking at you so you can experiment by positioning the metal studs in different locations to get the coil centered just right. Once you are getting steady voltage on the meter, glue them down again and then wire it back to the phone and you should be in business.
It helps to have a few extra Touchstones/backs to experiment with. I have run into one case where a particular touchstone would only work with one or two of my Pre backs, even before moving the parts into a new phone, and I've learned a lot through trial and error (like the fact that the flat foil piece from the Pre is a necessary component).
If you can post or link to some photos, I can probably give you better assistance. Good luck!
-darren

Oh, by the way -- I just noticed that your mod was on an AT&T Note. Mine was on an International Note which is likely to be similar but the photos I've seen of the AT&T Note show more bits around the speaker box (antennas?) and a slightly different arrangement at the USB port where I attached my wires. I would suggest tracing out the ground and 5VDC wires from the USB-micro port (if you haven't already) to make sure that your chosen attachment points are correct.
-darren

One more one more thing: the AT&T Galaxy Note has an NFC antenna in the battery IIRC. I don't know how that will affect the operation of an inductive charging coil. My only point of reference is the Nexus S 4G that I put a touchstone coil in. I found that if the charging coil was on the *outside* of the phone, with the NFC coil on the inside of the back cover, both operated OK. When the Touchstone coil was sandwiched between the NFC coil and battery, the inductive charging, NFC or both failed to work.
Click here to see my report on modding the Nexus S.
In your case, the order of things mirrors my success with the Nexus S 4G, but your charging coil and NFC will be virtually in contact while they were separated by the rear door plastic on my Nexus S 4G. If the NFC coil is causing trouble, then the back will work, as currently configured, when you take it off the phone and put it on a meter. Let me know what you find.
-darren

RE - Problems with I717 TouchStone Mostly Fixed
Hey Daren, It's Chris.
Thanks for your quick replay. I got everything working, and your completely right. The Positioning of the coil is very important. However. Not as important as the positioning of the foil that was provided with the coil. It turns out that the foil has to be the exact same plan as the coil. and has to hang over the edges of the coil. e.g. the foil cannot be exactly the same size circle as the foil. Thats what caused my issues. I also had to place the coil WITH the foil on the back side of the battery door, and the board on the inside of the battery door. Anyway i'm still testing. I'll let you know how it goes.
Interesting fact. "Battery Mix" Says charging - 36 Min to 100% ( +54.5% p/h ) That's a huge rate of charge. I'm wondering if the capsitor is stopping the charge because the flow rate is too great. Thats why it shuts on and off? Let me know what you think.
Thanks again!

-Chris,
That's great news! That charging rate seems crazy high though. Without hardware or software modification, the phone usually limits charging to 0.5A. If you figure out what is going on maybe you can bottle it and sell it.
-darren

TF300 Back removed

Well I got bored and since I couldn't find any pictures of the insides of the TF300 I took the cover off, it was a lot simpler than I thought it would be. The volume button and power button are attached so you don't have to worry about them falling out of the cover.
There are just a bunch of clips holding the back on and all I did was slip my spudger in between the seam around the screen and it started popping apart.
I did start on the bottom and the opposite side of the volume rocker and then just worked my way around it.
Only took about 5 minutes being careful the first time around. Would only take a minute or two now since I know how easy this thing comes apart.
If you do this be sure to remove your micro SD card first though.
I didn't go any further than just remove the back, really didn't feel like doing a full tear down and didn't want to remove the warranty sticker either.
Putting it back on only takes a minute.
The one thing that did surprise me was the amount of finger print smudges there were on the copper strips and the metallic coating on the underside of the cover, they definitely weren't mine , so much for using gloves.
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Here's the direct links to the full sized images.
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7640/005esp.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/6397/006kt.jpg

nice
i always wonders how it look like o the inside. by any chance are you planing to crawl to the cpu and gpu?

Unless I get really bored I probably won't tear it down any further.
The CPU/GPU look to be under the large copper shield and it's stuck down pretty good. I'd definitely would bend it up really bad trying to get it off as it's very thin, and on the lower edge of it there's a warranty sticker so I wouldn't want to damage it.

Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic

turdbogls said:
Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can find a white or red one on eBay then yes it is. There are no components on the cover itself except for a heat dispersion pad. That's it.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app

Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app

Just a thought... Could the bootloader encryption be on a chip?

obsidianchao said:
Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The copper foil is probably used as dual purpose, heat spreader and EMI shielding. The piece over the CPU/GPU does have a black plastic backing insulating it from other components. But I couldn't tell if the copper foil was in direct contact with the CPU/GPU or not with the way it was stuck down, and I didn't want to pry up on it as it would bend out of shape very easily.

Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..

DuneBug said:
Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are a couple pictures posted in OP, I updated it to include links to the full sized images.

Oh oops, Opera mobile wasn't showing the pics till u added the links..

Very interesting, everything is clean and tight hehe.
Thanks
Yes a back replacement for those who like to mod would be cool!

Nice. If they were ever to sell the red one I would look for the red back. Lol. That's the one I really wanted but couldn't resist.
Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using XDA

There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?

psjw12 said:
There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/

chili_red said:
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look for a port to put a 3g receiver

poor quality control on these items

archondragon said:
hey can you post a youtube video man on how to disassemble it? i am seriously having a touch screen issue, i'm afraid to take it apart unless i see a video on how to do it, but so far i found none. hopefullly maybe you can show.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9

LOL
You got some nerve!
I’m very afraid of taking apart my electronics. (Sloppy hands)
You know who assembles for ASUS? Because I’ve seen pictures of FOXXCON workers wearing gloves, or fingertip cover if not whole gloves.

Ripped mine apart today.
Buster99 said:
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dropped mine three days after I got it - doesn't take a hit very well.. Still powers up and operates but glass/touchscreen is shattered and no touch response, so it's basically a doorstop..
Ripped into it after seeing this post - no video of the process though, sorry.. Getting the back off is indeed easy.. Video connector is right there and easy to get to in order to re-seat if you suspect a bad connection.. It is the metallic micro-connector that actually has wires and is taped down with a clear tape.
Also, touchscreen plastic ribbon connector is also easy to get to in order to re-seat.. It is the wide plastic strip type ribbon (with internal wiring strips) that ends up splitting into two connections with little foam rubber pieces on top of them to keep them from backing out.. When you pull the connections out, as I did today, it's good to know how they work. The two touchscreen headers (connectors) on the pcb are a hinged/clamping type. The back of the connector (away from the ribbon) hinges up and the ribbon is free.
Anyway, removing a shattered touchscreen is a bear - lots and lots of sticky adhesive. Double-sided sticky tape (half inch wide) holding the touchscreen to the flimsy plastic bezel all the way around, and double-sided sticky foam (2mm wide) holding the touchscreen to the TFT display assembly all the way around.
I need confirmation, please, from anyone; is this touchscreen for the TF300 the same one used for the TF201. I would assume it is, but do not want to order one based on an assumption.. I have the whole unit reassembled and working w/o touchscreen. Installing it will be miles easier than taking it out for sure..

[USER Tips] Nook HD+ teardown with images (+ video)

Apologies. My English is not a professional!
Hi.
I token apart many mobile and tab items. This one was so easy to do.
If you crack or broke something when you take apart your Nook HD+ then all responsibility goes only for you. My guide is only for knowledge base.
You lose WARRANTY when you take apart your device!
Ok, lets start.
Tools you need:
1. Plastic Triangle Pry Tool
2. Plastic Pry Tool
3. Torx T5 Screwdriver
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1. Take Plastic Triangle Pry Tool and place it to screen on bottom side where screen bezel corner is cut off. VERY GENTLY push the Plastic Triangle Pry Tool behind bezel and screen.
Be aware! Plastic Bezel is very soft and you can broke bezel legs. About which legs I talk, you see on 7 step pictures.
2. Don't take away Plastic Triangle Pry Tool. Move around the entire inside of the plastic bezel. You hear how double sided tape be open.
3. Again don't take away Plastic Triangle Pry Tool. Push it VERY GENTLY more inside, but be aware you can broke little bezel plastic leg.
4. You see that bezel corner goes up at body. Now push Plastic Pry Tool at another side behind bezel and body and remove Plastic Triangle Pry Tool
5. Place Plastic Triangle Pry Tool at outside behind body and bezel and move around the entire outside of the plastic bezel. You again hear how double sided tape be open.
6. Now gently remove bezel at body. You need gently help with Plastic Pry Tool.
7. Hard part is done and this is how looks bezel and legs. These legs are around bezel.
8. Take Torx T5 Screwdriver
9. Unscrew the all screws (marked green on picture) except red marked screws on picture. If you unscrew these screws you can broke one copper foil which one makes ground/background to WiFi antenna.
All screws are same size!
10. Now take Nook to left hand power button side to down and with Plastic Triangle Pry Tool GENTLY detach backside plastic cover a little bit at body. Be aware battery is attached to backside plastic cover and you can broke battery connector on motherboard if you use here power on detach.
11. With right hand fingers GENTLY move battery power cable at mainboard. Place all pieces GENTLY to table.
12. All done. Now it look like this!
Enjoy!
YouTube video example
http://youtu.be/HpVrds3g-M8
When you place back Plastic bezel, you need replace 3mm Double sided tape around bezel. I used this one 3M Sticker tape Double sided tape Adhesive For housing touch screen LCD 3mm
You are welcome to redistribute it but ask for consent before!
I try monitor this thread and reply.

Thanks! I've done a few screen-ectomies in my past, and this will be a useful guide if I need to again. The question I have, did you get it back together?

I can't tell from the Pic. Is that space in the center right a Ram slot that might allow and increase to 2 gig? A Rom upgrade looks like it might be simple also.
edit: my mistake - the the ram slot is actually the Battery contact.

dbh369 said:
Thanks! I've done a few screen-ectomies in my past, and this will be a useful guide if I need to again. The question I have, did you get it back together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This baby opened second time for making this guide. Yes i can make reverse guide too but i dont see reason. Because there are nothing to do. Just put all back. And YES, it works.
One thing have which one i write on monday. You need 3mm double sided clear or black 3M tape to replace tape on bezel.

Nuor60 said:
I can't tell from the Pic. Is that space in the center right a Ram slot that might allow and increase to 2 gig? A Rom upgrade looks like it might be simple also.
edit: my mistake - the the ram slot is actually the Battery contact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are there even ram modules for tablets being sold? With which form factor are we dealing here?
If it can be upgraded though it would be great news, 1 gig is rather constraining.

Added video and link for example 3M double sided 3mm tape.

Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...

OyaNET said:
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your point?

datas0ft said:
What is your point?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Point is, that I love my HD+, but I miss standard micro USB connection and wireless charging.
I'm already running late on a few projects of mine but after seeing the pics I cant get rid of the thoughts of hardware hacking my HD+ to integrate the above features.
BTW. I'm really grateful for the teardown pictures and description.

OyaNET said:
Huh...
I probably should have not read this topic. As a hardware engineer I might have some sleepless nights dreaming of wireless charging circuitry and a microUSB hacked into this beautiful body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go for it, then quit your day job! Lol.
Better yet, build a converter adaptor, micro usb female to Nook 30-pin male, then we could use the HD+ for USB hosting.

thanks!

is screen replacement possible?
I am looking at your pictures to determine if it is possible to replace a cracked screen. I dropped mine on the concrete sidewalk and the glass cracked.:crying: The functionality is fine, the lcd was not damaged, just the "glass" (or plastic more likely). I would like to replace it with a new one, but if it is really impossible to do without breaking parts such as the foil ground wire, etc, then I guess I will put up with a cracked screen. Do you think it is really feasible to replace the lcd and digitizer? Thanks.

could i charge the battery directly?

loverppc said:
could i charge the battery directly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Nook HD+ is not charging anymore since one week. Battery goes low now, only green light no orange, tried 2 original power adapter, is it possible to recharche batterie without the internal charging electronics with an external one or is it possible to connect 5v power adapter directly to nook hd+?
thanks!

retaped down the bezel on my HD Plus
nice guide

Is the N home button accessible through this method, or is that built within the screen making it difficult to access? My N button on a Nook HD+ is not very responsive and has to be pressed hard to get it to work (purchased it on ebay), anyone know if this is fixable? I have a Nook HD as well which was brand new and that one's button is very responsive and works with the slightest of touch.

Ok, so i opened my Nook HD+ up and the micro switch is definitely accessible, but it needs to be replaced as the previous owner seems to have been a bit too harsh with it. Anyone know where i can get an exact replacement? I've replaced car fob key micro switches before, so this shouldn't be an issue.
Here's a photo from the Nook Tablet, the switch is the same in the HD+ (it's about an inch above the USB)
http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/BWtQHPQKynJJROds

Does anyone know where I could buy one of the connectors to attach the digitizer's flexi ribbon to the motherboard?

Mine fast shutdown when in use, despite fully charged. And cannot be tured on, unless plugged in. Use while wired id's fine throughout.
is that battery issue?
Any generic battery module to recommend that can fit?
Dimensions of battery pack please?

Just buy a used Nook. They are fairly cheap. Harvest a battery out of one with a broken screen perhaps.

Nexus 7 (2013) Take Apart Repair Guide

Is the screen on your Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) cracked or broken? You can repair the screen or other internal parts and components with this in depth repair guide. The guide will take you through each crucial step that will be essential in effectively performing a successful and safe opening of your device and repair nearly any desired part.
This guide will aid your installation of the following Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) parts:
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) LCD Screen Replacement
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) LCD + Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Essential Tools:
Safe Pry Opening Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver (#00)
Heat Gun/Hair Dryer
Google Nexus 7 (2nd Generation) Tear Down Guide:​
In order to get started with the repair you will first need to completely power down your device.
After the device is powered down you can start separating the unit's back cover from the screen assembly and also the motherboard.
Due to the fact the two are sealed together very firmly on this model, it may be very advantageous to begin with a small knife to release the first clips.
Normally if you start on the side of the device you will find it to be the easiest route. Next step use your pry tool to wedge between the seams around the sides and corners of the device until the back cover detaches from the tablet. Also be sure not to pry near the USB port located on the base.
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After you have removed the back cover from the tablet, simply use your pry tool to release the battery connector which is found on the top right side of your device. This is done to be certain that the device is totally powered down.
Next you will use a Small Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the four (4) Small Phillips screws which are depicted in red in the figure below.
Also depicted below in the figure are the remaining flex cable connections which are colored green. Use your pry tool to release the flex cable connections. It is important to use caution and remove the connections while avoiding tearing any of the cables.
Once the flex cables are released, you will be able to carefully take out the battery and the housing it is located in.
Now that the cables have been released you will be able to detach the five (5) connections colored in green below using your pry tool, as well as extract all the screws (seventeen of them) from both the top and bottom motherboard components using your Small Phillips screwdriver.
Something to be aware of is the fact that the Small Phillips screws are unequal in size so it will be very important to keep them separated to ensure that the screws are later placed in the correct spots.
After you have removed the screws, you will then use your pry tool to take out the bottom motherboard component (Figure 3.1 ), along with the loud speaker underneath the motherboard (Figure 3.2).
You will find another connector under the loud speaker and using the pry tool can release it. Holding this part down is adhesive tape which needs to be cautiously removed (Figure 3.3) and this will make it possible to pull out the long orange flex cable.
Then using your pry tool carefully take out the top motherboard component. It is important to be certain all connections have been released from this piece to ensure that none of the flex cables release while you remove the motherboard.
Following the removal of the top motherboard component, you will then be able to remove the top speaker underneath it, which is displayed in Figure 3.5.
The last part you will need to extract from the housing is the button flex cable found on the left side. Using your pry tool, lightly press against this cable in order to release the cable that is bound to the housing with adhesive (Figure 3.6). After this piece is removed it will be possible to begin taking the glass touch screen off of the the housing.
Prior to taking off the screen, you will need to use a heat gun (on low) or a hair dryer to heat up the sides and corners of the device for approximately 40 seconds to 1 minute, this will make sure the tablet is not excessively heated. Once the device is heated up the adhesive that holds the screen together will noticeably loosen.
Next, after the sides and corners have been heated up, use your pry tool to shim in between the housing and the screen assembly, and be sure to run the tool around the sides of the entire device.
Finally, substitute in the new parts while discarding damaged parts and simply reverse these steps in order to reassemble your device back together.
RepairsUniverse's Repair Guides are for informational and learning purposes only. Perform this repair at your own risk.

Cool guide! This will be useful not only for general repairs, but also for those of us who want to do hard-mods.
Now I just have to buy one. The end of the month can't come fast enough...

Taking the back cover off looks to be a pain and almost impossible without doing damage. They are very well built.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium

This guide is excellent.

Well, it happened. Screen broke just by setting it down face-up on the pavement. These devices are incredibly fragile.
Is there any retailer that currently sells the replacement glass/digitizer? I am not thrilled to pay more than I paid for the device to have it repaired ($208!)

kgraves22 said:
Well, it happened. Screen broke just by setting it down face-up on the pavement. These devices are incredibly fragile.
Is there any retailer that currently sells the replacement glass/digitizer? I am not thrilled to pay more than I paid for the device to have it repaired ($208!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We're expecting to receive parts for this device. Check back with us soon.

Orange cable
Hey this is sweet! In figure 3.3 I am curious to know what that flex cable is for. Thanks.

repairsuniverse said:
We're expecting to receive parts for this device. Check back with us soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome. Is there any possibility you can give me a rough estimate for the part and for full repair? I am subscribing to this thread so I will be looking for your reply when the parts become available. Thank you very much.
By the way, if you ever need information on parts, flashing, or programming for Cricket Communications, I am your man!
Thank you so very much, I've had this device for 10 days and I'm pretty much devastated.

kgraves22 said:
Awesome. Is there any possibility you can give me a rough estimate for the part and for full repair? I am subscribing to this thread so I will be looking for your reply when the parts become available. Thank you very much.
By the way, if you ever need information on parts, flashing, or programming for Cricket Communications, I am your man!
Thank you so very much, I've had this device for 10 days and I'm pretty much devastated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll have a better idea when we get the parts in. I'll try and keep you updated or you can visit my website from the link in my signature.

repairsuniverse said:
I'll have a better idea when we get the parts in. I'll try and keep you updated or you can visit my website from the link in my signature.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever get parts? I need to order a new screen and digitizer for 2nd gen nexus 7.
Thanks

combres said:
Did you ever get parts? I need to order a new screen and digitizer for 2nd gen nexus 7.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We're still waiting... We have had alot of customers asking the same question.

Does the back cover feel more loose if you snap it back on after taking it off? Or is it still solid?

I need a digitizer only not sure how difficult that is to fix though....

That screen + lcd replacement cost more than what the actual N7 cost at any store. wow

gypsy214 said:
That screen + lcd replacement cost more than what the actual N7 cost at any store. wow
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah that price is horrible

keilflex said:
Yeah that price is horrible
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found this place called xcubicle that replaces the screen and lcd undearneath for 189.00 better price than going to pay 350 for a new one.Also go on etradersupply they sell the screen for cheaper

How adventagious is it to put a tiny plate of copper on where the CPU is? Im not sure how much room there is but my CPU tends to get in the 70c range when browsing at 1.9ghz. I feel like there's be reason to add a chunk of copper to attempt to reduce temps for a little bit before it starts to throttle...

Same here!
kgraves22 said:
Well, it happened. Screen broke just by setting it down face-up on the pavement. These devices are incredibly fragile.
Is there any retailer that currently sells the replacement glass/digitizer? I am not thrilled to pay more than I paid for the device to have it repaired ($208!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you find any seller? I also got my nexus's screen cracked and looked for replacement some site even said 600$ come on who is going to pay that much for screen ... the cheapest i got was 208 $ so even that is high for a device this cheap... so if you or anyone got some idea where and how to get replacement glass/digitizer that will be great help. (LCD is just working fine so why to buy lcd but all of them include lcd which i think makes it expensive. )

Buy a new tablet.
Keep the broken one for a year, spare part will be cheaper.

sk8trix said:
I need a digitizer only not sure how difficult that is to fix though....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can go to our site and find the piece your looking for as well as get a free pry tool for the job. We also have a tutorial video you can follow to help you in fixing your phone and have "live chat" support so you can easily get help if needed. But on newer phones we don't recommend getting just the digitizer as it can be a little more difficult to separate from the LCD, and to prevent further issues or complications, it may be worth your time and money to get the combination LCD and Digitizer.

[Repair guide] OnePlus One Full Disassembly/Screen Replacement + Re-assembly Tutorial

The pictures are quite big. Resize the browser window width to shrink the pictures to a more manageable size.
Disclaimer: Perform the following repairs at your own risk. This thread is for educational purposes only. You will void your warranty if you proceed. But that's implied, right?
Disassembly
Many of you will already know how troublesome sending a phone back to the manufacturer for repairs is. This is especially the case for OnePlus, whose after-sales support isn't exceptional, and compared to the price of the OPO itself, their repair costs are by no means affordable ($201 and an unknown amount of days). I've read that a number of forum members have repaired their screens themselves using parts from the internet, but it wasn't all that well documented. So as a mobile phone repairer by profession, I thought it would help a lot of people with broken screens for me to write up a detailed walkthrough/tutorial teaching them how to fix it themselves. Let's get to it!
New: a video! (credits to @stephenlotus)
Note that this guide can be used to replace any modular component; the StyleSwap cover, camera, charging port, you name it - just disassemble your phone until you reach your desired step, replace the faulty/damaged part, then re-assemble it!
Actually obtaining the replacement part? Well, that's another story
Equipment/Materials:
Precision screwdriver set (cross-head/Phillip's head, flat-head)
Sharp craft knife/Stanley knife
Plastic pry tools
Fine-tipped tweezers
Stainless steel pry tools
Thin, rigid cards/guitar picks
Hairdryer/industrial hot air gun (recommended)
Air blower (use this to clean the cameras and lenses before closing it up (not your breath))
A full screen assembly (not just the see-through glass digitizer)*
A roll (or a couple of different widths) of double-sided 3M repair tape or pre-cut 3M tape (see second post)
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*The screen can be bought from various sellers on the internet starting from about $80 for the more repair-friendly version, depending on postage and stuff. Given the exclusive nature of the OnePlus One, any seller that sells a "Genuine/Original/OEM" screen assembly is 95% guaranteed to be an original screen. It isn't profitable for third party manufacturers to produce aftermarket replacements or re-manufacture working LCDs with broken glass (glass broken but LCD still works, remove broken glass and re-laminate a new one onto it). The market is small, because most people would still prefer to RMA their phones.
Also note that this guide assumes you will be re-using the old frame/chassis. If you plan to replace it too, then you will need to remove the earpiece grille (if the new screen doesn't have it) from the old screen, and it's best to move the foam lining from the old frame to the new frame too.
I don't think I'm allowed to disclose sites that sell "original" OnePlus accessories/parts, so get Googling!
Actually, I can now. Mwahahahahaha!
You can buy the screen assembly from sites like eBay and AliExpress. I recommend getting the fully assembled screen, complete with capacitive key backlights:
www.aliexpress.com/item/for-Oneplus...zer-assembly-by-free-shipping/2022582516.html
The one without the button backlights is cheaper, but you'll have to take it from your old screen:
www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shippi...mbly-For-Oneplus-One-1-A0001/32245677673.html
Do not get the glass/digitizer only, unless you're up to the challenge, your LCD still works and you want the great savings:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Orig...or-OnePlus-One-Free-shipping/32243992827.html
Note: there's absolutely nothing wrong with my OnePlus One (well, except for very mild touchscreen issues). If I were to wait until I actually break it (which is never in a million years), I'd never get around to writing this tutorial. Your experience may vary, depending on severity of damage.
Step 1: Eject the SIM tray.
Step 2: Remove the StyleSwap cover. Using a plastic pry tool, start by lightly wedging it underneath the SIM slot (do not pry), and run it across the gap to release the clips. This ensures minimal/no damage to the battery and/or scratches to the StyleSwap cover, unlike using OnePlus' "Press and Peel" method. Never forget.
Step 3: Using a knife with a sharp tip, remove the rubber screw caps covering the three screws in the middle of the camera lens cover.
Step 4: Unscrew all the screws, and put them in a safe place where you won't lose them.
Step 5: Using a plastic pry tool, pry off the camera cover from the corner near the power button or volume button. Caution! The battery flex may be stuck to the cover, so don't lift it up all the way. Detach it from the cover before fully removing it.
​
Step 6: Using the aforementioned method, do the same for the speaker assembly. Remove the rubber screw caps, unscrew all the screws and store in a safe place. Note how the screws covered with the caps are smaller.
Step 7: Pry off the speaker assembly, starting from the USB port.
Step 8: Use a plastic pry tool to detach the battery flex connector if it hasn't detached yet, then carefully wedge a stainless steel pry tool underneath the battery, starting at the bottom left corner. This side has less adhesive, so it's easier to start on this side. DO NOT PUSH DOWN INTO THE CHASSIS. Delicate flex cables reside here. Keep all pushing of the pry tool as horizontal as possible.
Step 9: Once the left side of the battery has lifted enough, change directions of the pry tool. Use the left side of the chassis as a leverage point, and lift the battery out of the battery well. Be careful not to puncture or deform the battery. You can use a pry tool to cut the adhesive on the right side off the battery.
Step 10: Unplug all the flex cable connectors off the logic board. There are 4 along the bottom edge and 1 to the left of the camera. DO NOT USE THE LOGIC BOARD AS A LEVERAGE POINT. There are delicate surface mount components on the logic board that can easily be damaged accidentally and are nearly impossible to replace. Hold down the logic board, and pull the flex connector up and away from the board.
Alternatively, if you want to cut to the chase and just replace the screen without removing all that other stuff, you can, by only disconnecting the LCD and digitizer flex (rightmost flex along the bottom and the wide flex in the top left corner respectively) and skipping to Step 19. Just remember to remove the plastic block in Step 16 and also be careful not to overheat the earpiece area.
Step 11: Unscrew the screw holding down the logic board. It is located next to the power button. Do not lose it for mix it up with the other screws. It is different in every dimension.
Step 12: Using a sharp knife, peel the button flexes off the chassis, making sure the bottom edge comes off first and be careful not to cut the flex.
Step 13: Push the digitizer flex away from the logic board so it doesn't get caught, and lift the logic board up from the chassis in an arc motion, starting from the top left corner. Rotate it clockwise while doing so.
Step 14: There is still one connector still connected to the logic board on the underside, and that's the cellular antenna connector. Pull the antenna slightly out of its groove.
Step 15: Detach the antenna connector from the logic board using a plastic pry tool. You can use the logic board as the leverage point here, but make sure there aren't any delicate components nearby.
Step 16: Using a pair of fine-tipped tweezers, remove the plastic block that sits next to the digitizer flex connector.
iFixit's teardown does not cover this. If you don't remove it, the flex connector will be caught and will not come out.
Step 17: Carefully, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the earpiece. This prevents the diaphragm from being damaged later on, when the hot air gun is used.
CAUTION: the earpiece's diaphragm and voice coil has the tendency to fall apart and separate itself from the rest of the earpiece. Be careful.
Step 18 (optional if doing a screen replacement, just don't damage them in the process): Peel the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex and USB port flex from the chassis, and remove them.
Step 19: Evenly heat the bezels of the screen using a hairdryer on high heat setting or a hot air gun on a med-high heat setting (~300 °C/~600 °F) on low airflow setting. This softens the adhesive holding the screen in place, making removal easier. Caution! The chassis can become very hot, as it is metal. Do not heat one area for a prolonged period of time, as it can permanently deform the plastic bezel surrounding the screen (or damage the LCD/digitizer, if it's a working one you intend to reuse).
This step I do not have exact instructions for, because my screen isn't broken. I had to be careful not to break it, as it was my only screen. You can use a knife to pry off broken pieces of glass.
WARNING: If you are removing a working intact display and intend to keep it that way, do NOT separate any of the LCD layers from the glass. As it is laminated, separating it will result in permanent damage to the display assembly.
I don't know what this copper does. It doesn't seem significant. New screen assemblies don't seem to have it. Also note that the screen is removed as a single piece assembly.
Step 20: Scrape off the copper bits and the old adhesive from the chassis using a tool of your choice, making sure to not damage anything else.
Step 21: Clean up your work area to prepare for re-assembly! Be careful of broken glass bits.
Obligatory exploded view pic:

Re-assembly
Now might be a good time to fix your grounding issues! If your touch issues arose from the increase of the device's temperature, you may have to cover the whole metallic back of the LCD with tape too.
Note: if the screen still has issues even when isolated as below, then the screen itself may be faulty.
To re-assemble it, it pretty much is just going through the steps in reverse order. When the phone is fully disassembled and nothing is adhered into place, now's the time to test your replacement screen assembly. You can do so by fitting the screen into the frame without using any adhesive, connect it to the logic board along with the battery and turn it on, or if you're lazy like me, just connect it up like this:
It is not recommended to keep the phone powered on for any longer than a few minutes like this, because the logic board effectively has no heatsink.
Step 1: As mentioned before, the old glue can no longer be reused, so we'll have to apply some adhesive tape, cut by hand. If this were a mainstream phone, it'd be pretty easy to get machine-cut 3M tape that fits the bezel perfectly, to ensure an optimal fit.
Sadly, this isn't the case, so we'll have to resort to rolls of that tape of various widths. You can buy these from eBay by searching "3M double sided repair tape".
Update: pre-cut tape is now an option! You can get it on AliExpress .
I personally used 1 mm for the side bezels and 3 mm for the top and bottom, but experiment to obtain maximum coverage. Make sure you don't cover any sensor holes. Usually, this tape in roll form isn't adequately thick, so double up and use two layers.
IMPORTANT: Check that there aren't remnants of broken glass on the bezel when you install the screen or tape. They can cause the screen to easily break.
Also check that you've moved the earpiece grille and capacitive key backlight pads (if the new screen doesn't have them) over from the old screen to the new one. And if you really want to, move the foam ring surrounding the front camera hole in the glass to. It prevents light from the LCD's backlight from leaking into view.
Step 2: Thread the flexes through their respective holes, and fit the screen into the chassis. Lightly heat the bezels (not too much; you don't want to damage the new LCD) to soften the adhesive, and place the screen face down on a clean, flat surface. Push down on the chassis with moderate force.
Step 3: Replace the rubber plastic block that sits in the digitizer flex slot.
Step 4: Make sure the proximity sensor, light sensor and front camera holes are clean and aren't covered by tape.
Step 5: If they were removed during the disassembly, replace the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex, then the USB port flex. Watch out for that weird bit that sticks out on the left ide of the speaker flex. Don't forget to reconnect the cellular antenna down the bottom.
Step 6: Put the earpiece back into the chassis. It should be oriented such that the two contact points are next to the digitizer flex.
Step 7: Reconnect the cellular antenna at the logic board. Do not push hardly unless you're absolutely sure it's aligned correctly.
Step 8: Tuck the antenna back into its groove.
Step 9: When reseating the logic board, ensure that the flex connectors stay clear from it. You don't want to have them end up underneath the logic board. Check that the board is flush with the screw holes.
Step 10: Make sure the front camera is also sitting flush. If it isn't, the camera cover may not fit, and the front camera will not be centered.
Step 11: Reconnect all the flex cables, and replace the logic board screw.
Step 12: Stick the button flexes back down onto the chassis.
Step 13: Straighten all the flex cables by lifting them up and stretching them towards the logic board, the stick them back down.
Step 14: Put the battery back in, then reconnect the flex.
Step 15: Replace the camera cover and screw it back into place.
Step 15b: Replace the tamper seal/water damage indicator (you won't get warranty either way, but might as well)
Step 16: Put the speaker assembly back in, and screw it into place.
Step 17: Replace all the rubber screw caps.
Step 18: Replace the StyleSwap cover, and put the SIM tray (with card) back in. Although the tray fits either way (like in Sony's Xperia Z series phones), the side with the gold contacts should face up when the phone faces down. Inserting it upside down will result in the phone not reading the SIM card, and risk damage to the internal SIM reader. LG, HTC and Apple's phones' SIM trays are designed to only fit one-way.
Step 19: Turn the phone on, and enjoy the results of your efforts!

Added to OnePlus One index thread:
[INDEX] OnePlus One Resources Compilation Roll-Up
Transmitted via Bacon

How difficult is this repair for someone who has no experience repairing phones?
I broke my screen 2 days ago and I'm wondering if it's worth trying to repair it, this guide seems pretty solid but some steps look like you might easily break the phone entirely.

naithantu said:
How difficult is this repair for someone who has no experience repairing phones?
I broke my screen 2 days ago and I'm wondering if it's worth trying to repair it, this guide seems pretty solid but some steps look like you might easily break the phone entirely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have no experience it'll probably be pretty difficult for you, unless you have a good technical/mechanical mind.

timmaaa said:
If you have no experience it'll probably be pretty difficult for you, unless you have a good technical/mechanical mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess it should be possible to do it myself then, or at least give it a try
I'll probably order a new screen tomorrow, will post here in a month or so when the screen arrived

Query
Excellent guide and I have all the bits removed from the old frame.
I thought I would be an easier route to use a brand new frame, instead of trying to heat the old LCD off.
I have tested everything on the bench and it powers up and we have touch screen
But I have now stopped the reassembly to check the following out. The new frame although having the required sticky parts does not have the black parts, which I assume is insulation.
Do I need this? what can I replace it with, is insulation tape ok although slightly thicker or maybe thin scotch magic tape? The guide mentions a good time to fix the touch screen issues, in the 4 days I had it prior to the drop, I don't think I had an issues, but does this need to be done, and am I right in reading that's also just cover the metal of the screen with insulation tape or scotch magic tape again?
I have attached an image of the black tape I refer to on the frame
Thanks,
Stephen.

CyberActive said:
Query
Excellent guide and I have all the bits removed from the old frame.
I thought I would be an easier route to use a brand new frame, instead of trying to heat the old LCD off.
I have tested everything on the bench and it powers up and we have touch screen
But I have now stopped the reassembly to check the following out. The new frame although having the required sticky parts does not have the black parts, which I assume is insulation.
Do I need this? what can I replace it with, is insulation tape ok although slightly thicker or maybe thin scotch magic tape? The guide mentions a good time to fix the touch screen issues, in the 4 days I had it prior to the drop, I don't think I had an issues, but does this need to be done, and am I right in reading that's also just cover the metal of the screen with insulation tape or scotch magic tape again?
I have attached an image of the black tape I refer to on the frame
Thanks,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it was originally in the phone, it's always a good idea to replace it, or use a substitute in place of it. I don't know how it'll affect the phone's functionality if it isn't replaced, because I've never tried it. It's best to play it safe and tape up those corresponding areas with electrical tape. Scotch tape may be too thin.
Dang, 4 days??
Also, does your replacement screen have the earpiece grille pre-installed? When I disassembled mine, the earpiece was not part of the frame, but stuck to the screen.

vantt1 said:
If it was originally in the phone, it's always a good idea to replace it, or use a substitute in place of it. I don't know how it'll affect the phone's functionality if it isn't replaced, because I've never tried it. It's best to play it safe and tape up those corresponding areas with electrical tape. Scotch tape may be too thin.
Dang, 4 days??
Also, does your replacement screen have the earpiece grille pre-installed? When I disassembled mine, the earpiece was not part of the frame, but stuck to the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok making some progress
Turns out the black that's under the flat connectors is there on the replacement frame, just a different colour.
I am starting to think that the black that's under the main board could be some sort of heat sink tape? I am referring the black that's actually stuck to the logic board on the top and also on the frame below the logic board and linked to the rear facing camera.
I have tried to remove the old screen with a hair dryer but have failed miserably. So I can not see for myself what the black under the screen was like can you remember if it was like what I believe to be heat sink tape or was it just adhesive or insulation?
Thanks for the heads up about the speaker grill, that is attached to the old screen, I managed to break that out as that's where the screen was smashed.
I have also noticed there is some conductive tape that bridges the frame and back of the screen together, that's not on the replacement parts.
There is also an adhesive o ring stuck to the glass in the front facing camera slot that's not on there replacement part.
Hopefully will get it rebuilt soon
Thanks Stephen

CyberActive said:
Ok making some progress
Turns out the black that's under the flat connectors is there on the replacement frame, just a different colour.
I am starting to think that the black that's under the main board could be some sort of heat sink tape? I am referring the black that's actually stuck to the logic board on the top and also on the frame below the logic board and linked to the rear facing camera.
I have tried to remove the old screen with a hair dryer but have failed miserably. So I can not see for myself what the black under the screen was like can you remember if it was like what I believe to be heat sink tape or was it just adhesive or insulation?
Thanks for the heads up about the speaker grill, that is attached to the old screen, I managed to break that out as that's where the screen was smashed.
I have also noticed there is some conductive tape that bridges the frame and back of the screen together, that's not on the replacement parts.
There is also an adhesive o ring stuck to the glass in the front facing camera slot that's not on there replacement part.
Hopefully will get it rebuilt soon
Thanks Stephen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that tape is very similar to the type that's found on the inside of the iPhone 5's midframe. Apparently it's a "heat dissipation shield" film. You can probably buy it on eBay then trim it to the same shape as the original.
I don't know what that copper stuff that bridges the LCD to the frame is. I scraped off the bridging bits, and nothing seems off on my end.
Replace that O ring if you can. If you use the front camera, the backlight from the LCD might leak into view. I know it does on the Nexus 5.

Great stuff, slowly getting there, I will get that orderderd and cut to size, these are what I am looking at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iPhone-4-...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item418dc2333a
and / or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-iPhone...nk-dissipation-adhesive-sticker-/171636569146
Was it this same stuff that was on the frame surface behind the LCD? or was that just insulation?
Also you mentioned the touch screen fix, what is involved in that?
Thanks Stephen.

CyberActive said:
Great stuff, slowly getting there, I will get that orderderd and cut to size, these are what I am looking at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iPhone-4-...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item418dc2333a
and / or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-iPhone...nk-dissipation-adhesive-sticker-/171636569146
Was it this same stuff that was on the frame surface behind the LCD? or was that just insulation?
Also you mentioned the touch screen fix, what is involved in that?
Thanks Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stuff behind the LCD is more of a foam tape/film than a graphite tape. It feels similar to the one found behind the Nexus 5's LCD, but darker and smoother. And of course, the Nexus 5's isn't big enough.
The touchscreen fix involves putting tape on the chassis underneath the digitizer flex. If the issue was heat related, the metallic back of the LCD may need to be taped up too (apparently along the perimeter, creating a rectangle).
See above picture, circled in red: it looks like there's some heat dissipation tape underneath the LCD too.

Ah ok, any suggestions on what I could replace the stuff behind the LCD with then? I have searched for the nexus 5 stuff and I can no locate any of that either.
Thanks,
Stephen.

CyberActive said:
Ah ok, any suggestions on what I could replace the stuff behind the LCD with then? I have searched for the nexus 5 stuff and I can no locate any of that either.
Thanks,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At the moment the best way to obtain it would probably be to take it out of your old frame. It's really hard to find OnePlus One specific parts these days.

guess I will have to go buy a heat gun over the next few days as I tried using a hair dryer and was not able to get even a little bit of movement on lifting the lcd from the frame.
I will post back over the new few days how it goes. fingers crossed.

I followed this guide and it was perfect!
The only downside is that when heating the screen i've managed seperate the plastic bezel from the screen it's self which is now out of shape as well. I'm hoping if i just heat it back up a little I can reform it back.
Just waiting on delivery of some repair tape.

hi guys i just send my one to repair for over 150€ because i thought it could only be changed as a wholle.. screen functions online half of the screen touchscreen doesnt work becuase of a small crack on the side.....SO DO I NEED JUST A NEW TOUCH DIGITIZER??? is this also with the corning glass on top?? mits not right??

Finally got everything I needed to go ahead with the screen replacement. This teardown was extremely helpful. I did have one snag and I haven't tested yet. When removing the earpiece it disassembled into two pieces and unwound but I gingerly repositioned the copper thread and left the earpiece in during the heating and old screen removal.
The new screen is outstanding and completely changes the experience of using the One Plus One. I only wish they had done better quality control in the first place.

Thanks for this guide. I'm going to order a new screen/digitizer today. I guess in about a month I'll be attempting this. When I broke my OnePlus I ordered a new one that day, so I plan on selling the second one if this repair is successful. If it's not, then I guess I lose $70 and some time. Wish me luck!

This is interesting. If appears a new battery technology would be nice guide.