Related
I have a 8525 that is 14 months old and has been working wonderfully all this time. A few days ago it started to shut itself off at no repeatable times. I pull it out and it is off! I try to load something and it shuts down instead. Today I did a total wipe and reinstalled from a back up. The same problem occurred. I wiped it again and installed a 2 month old backup and the same thing occurred. I have changed the battery. The memory is fine. The only thing that I have not tried is a wipe and a reinstall from scratch, but obviously would prefer not to do that.
WM 6.1 is running
Check to see if your battery connection isn't lose. If the power keeps shutting off for no reason in your pocket it could be that its not making proper connection. If you bought another battery that wasn't a HTC original then it may not be Quite the right size. I had this problem with an extended battery I bought. It was about 1/2mm less width than an original but that was enough to be a problem. A piece of paper between the battery and the casing fixed this.
Cheers...
not the problem
Thanks, but the battery is not the problem as the spare battery is one that I have been using for 6 months and the other one that I tried is the factory battery. Unfortunately, it is more serious than this.
I'm having similar problems with my Hermes...and I bought it ~14months ago too, refurbished, it's a Voda v1605, uk ebay seller.
Actually mine stays powered most of the time and it's not a SW problem: I'm trying various ROMs and I'm 100% sure the problem is HW-based.
Well it's much I have this prob and don't have any warranty, so I opened it and tried to "manually" solve this matter: I put a page between my qwerty and the motherboard, and this, together with some paper under the battery, solved the problem at most.
Now it switches off less frequently, but still not enough to safely bring it in my pocket and always find it switched on after taking it off
I tried to get it repaired but they told me they'd change the motherboard for +/- the price of a "as-new" 2nd hand one
I hope you solve, but if you don't....then I think we have to sell it "as-damaged" (or return it in warranty if you have)...I'm actually looking for a Diamond or TyTn II (see hard choice... thread ) and leave this dear mate
what i was afraid of
This is what I was afraid of. No warranty here so have been thinking of moving to the Tilt, but I am leaving town in a day and have no time to get and set it up.
Its also possible if you dropped your Hermes you may have cracked or bent the battery connectors.... May need to be fixed with soldering iron but is a pain if you can't solder really tiny joints...
Cheers...
ultramag69 said:
Its also possible if you dropped your Hermes you may have cracked or bent the battery connectors.... May need to be fixed with soldering iron but is a pain if you can't solder really tiny joints...
Cheers...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm ready to go, I want my Hermes back
Can you point me to some photos to understand where to solder the connectors better?
I mean, I've already seen them (so many times hehe), I also have that cool yellow gauge that could be useful to understand if they don't "touch" correctly, but I'm not sure I understood where are the soldering points
A photo with some arrow could be useful (or something similar lol).
Many thanks for your help mate!
The best idea would be to go Here - http://michael-channon.spaces.live.com/
Mikes site offers the best tutorials for the Hermes, and, if you need to you can pm him directly.
Cheers...
ultramag69 said:
The best idea would be to go Here - http://michael-channon.spaces.live.com/
Mikes site offers the best tutorials for the Hermes, and, if you need to you can pm him directly.
Cheers...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What a lovable guy! So available, so kind, cool!
Guys, just to let you all be near me...with my hearth that cries at every Hermes black screen...I've opened it again, did some tweaks - again - and did a complete photo-report and a short video too!
See here
http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp120/ErMejoo/My%20v1605%20opened/?albumview=slideshow and for the video choose "Main" on the top corner.
I'm looking forward to the next Mike answer (just sent him the link too) to see if he thinks detaching and soldering again the battery connectors can be the right next choice.
If someone has some ideas or if I have a great one (don't think so but the hope never fades away) or simply for kind words, let's write here.
Thanks to everyone giving support, I really appreciate.
ErMeglio said:
What a lovable guy! So available, so kind, cool!
Guys, just to let you all be near me...with my hearth that cries at every Hermes black screen...I've opened it again, did some tweaks - again - and did a complete photo-report and a short video too!
See here
http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp120/ErMejoo/My%20v1605%20opened/?albumview=slideshow and for the video choose "Main" on the top corner.
I'm looking forward to the next Mike answer (just sent him the link too) to see if he thinks detaching and soldering again the battery connectors can be the right next choice.
If someone has some ideas or if I have a great one (don't think so but the hope never fades away) or simply for kind words, let's write here.
Thanks to everyone giving support, I really appreciate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry was feeling a bit sick yesterday and didn't reply.
Having looked at the pics an video, I am begining to think one of two things:
1. There may be a crack in one of the battery connector soldered joints
Or
2. This has nothing to do with the battery connector and may have more to do with the general condition of the phone.
Number one could probably only be checked by re-soldering the contacts.
Number two is quite unspecific. You see when I look at the pics and see the gaps in the casing, and some damage to internal plastic, I get the feeling that the circuit boards etc are probably not be firmly held in place. In other words there is likely quite a bit of movement internally and between the two halves of the phone.
This in itself could cause the battery to move around. It could also cause the rigid flex cables to move at their connectors.
I think you need to check each and every connector is well inserted AND try to firm up all the looseness and movement internally and in the casing . I'm not sure that wlll be an easy job given some plastic parts appear broken.
I think it's going to be difficult to give further advice (not being able to see and feel the device directly.)
However, I'll have a look at my Hermes this weekend, and try to establish a link between pressing certain areas of the keyboard and a total shutdown.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks Mike, don't have to apologize, you're offering free help
Anyway, I have the WORST news for you....my Hermes has gone, completely.
After the mail I sent you the other day, don't know why really, perhaps for the spray, I don't know, it didn't switch on again.
When I connect the battery charger it comes red, and if I remember what I read somewhere here red means it doesn't feel the battery at all.
I tried to leave it outdoor these 2 days to see if magically that spray which left a film everywhere would have evaporated but this didn't help.
I'm having a very "rude" welder as I said, it has a cutting tip just to make you understand, anyway I've just toggled the battery conn with it (I had nothing to loose) and I have the 2 centered one which took away a dark "film", and on the motherboard I have the 2 silver connectors on each side, which touch 2-by-2, and the 2 centered one which are completely black...don't know if I damaged something that way...
I think tomorrow I could try to weld 4 wires (what are the centered one for?) and see what happens...what do you think?
I'd like to try everything to even explore the 0,01% possibilities to see it working again...
[EDIT 1]
Just updated my album on photobucket with the new photos...
After the mail I sent you the other day, don't know why really, perhaps for the spray, I don't know, it didn't switch on again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
!! What spray? Where did it come from?
When I connect the battery charger it comes red, and if I remember what I read somewhere here red means it doesn't feel the battery at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it means the battery is not charging - which suggests the connector is now disconnected even if it wasn't before.
I'm having a very "rude" welder as I said,.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now!, I think something has happened to the translation here!! Does this welder (let's call him Fred) swear at you and call you rude names? And when you say you have had him!!!
Sorry - I have a weird sense of humour.
Anyway. To be honest, given the general condition of the phone and it's various problems - I think you should start looking for a new phone - you will never be able to rely on the one you have there.
You could also consider making a small amount of money ny selling off parts from the one you have. Folk here are always looking for difficult to find parts.
Sorry to be defeatist about the phone, but I think you realise that it's condition is getting worse not better. Assuming money is no problem then it's time to get yourself a present
Mike
mikechannon said:
!! What spray? Where did it come from?
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Will do a photo in some minutes and upload to photobucket, think you understood I love doing photos with the daddy's (almost) new HD cam
mikechannon said:
Now!, I think something has happened to the translation here!! Does this welder (let's call him Fred) swear at you and call you rude names? And when you say you have had him!!!
Sorry - I have a weird sense of humour.
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Hahahahahahaha ops!! I Said I am an inventive Italian, didn't I?
I've just read some -better?- definition of the "noun" on dictionary.com (All rights reserved bla bla bla) and found:
–verb (used with object)
1.to unite or fuse (as pieces of metal) by hammering, compressing, or the like, esp. after rendering soft or pasty by heat, and sometimes with the addition of fusible material like or unlike the pieces to be united.
2.to bring into complete union, harmony, agreement, etc. –verb (used without object)
3.to undergo welding; be capable of being welded: a metal that welds easily.
–noun
4.a welded junction or joint.
5.the act of welding or the state of being welded.
And also:
Weld"er\, n. One(A PERSON??) who welds, or unites pieces of iron, etc., by welding.
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Click to collapse
Mmh I'm quite confused, don't think I understood, wtf does welder mean lol?!
There's also the verb part which seemed correct, isn't it?
Anyway, that's the google translation, knew it was stupid but didn't think that much
mikechannon said:
Sorry to be defeatist about the phone, but I think you realise that it's condition is getting worse not better. Assuming money is no problem then it's time to get yourself a present
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I will, as soon as I can...currently I can't, that's why yesterday my father wanted to help buying 50% (200€) of a Nokia N95 8gb to let me use it and wait better prices for the HTCs out there...and take the Nokia for himself when I decide (what a profiteer haha!!)...BUT of course the shop finished them ([OT]there's a long story for N95s here, everyone wants it but noone gets! In short, my sister got a new bricked one (DOA) and is waiting for a replacement for 2 months; my dad bought one on ebay and got cheated for 270€...now I damage my phone and want to buy at the shop with him and it ends two days after we had seen it there...if this was a film I'd call it "Nokia N95-8gb: the nightmare"! [/OT])!
Thanks for your help anyway, much appreciated!
ErMeglio said:
Will do a photo in some minutes and upload to photobucket, think you understood I love doing photos with the daddy's (almost) new HD cam
Hahahahahahaha ops!! I Said I am an inventive Italian, didn't I?
I've just read some -better?- definition of the "noun" on dictionary.com (All rights reserved bla bla bla) and found:
Mmh I'm quite confused, don't think I understood, wtf does welder mean lol?!
There's also the verb part which seemed correct, isn't it?
Anyway, that's the google translation, knew it was stupid but didn't think that much
Well I will, as soon as I can...currently I can't, that's why yesterday my father wanted to help buying 50% (200€) of a Nokia N95 8gb to let me use it and wait better prices for the HTCs out there...and take the Nokia for himself when I decide (what a profiteer haha!!)...BUT of course the shop finished them ([OT]there's a long story for N95s here, everyone wants it but noone gets! In short, my sister got a new bricked one (DOA) and is waiting for a replacement for 2 months; my dad bought one on ebay and got cheated for 270€...now I damage my phone and want to buy at the shop with him and it ends two days after we had seen it there...if this was a film I'd call it "Nokia N95-8gb: the nightmare"! [/OT])!
Thanks for your help anyway, much appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well you have nothing more to lose by continuing to try things out on the Hermes.
A couple of points regarding your pictures. You know you can upload the pictures to photobucket and then using the direct link that photbucket gives you below the picture you can then post the picture on XDA-Dev. You use the little "insert image" icon when writing a post. As shown here:
http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp120/ErMejoo/My v1605 opened/
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I'm not sure what that black film on the central connectors is. Perhaps it's melted plastic from the connector housing. In any case you should be able to melt it off. (Be careful though because excess heat may be transferred into the board and start loosening other connections. The Hermes has a multilayered m/board and some connections are "sandwiched" between the layers).
I see the picture of the spray - I assume it is a metal polish? It may or may not conduct electricity - if it does that could cause serious problems even after it's cleaned off.
Mike
PS
By the way a welder can be a person who welds or a machine that welds. But you said that it was a rude welder. A machine cannot be rude, so a "rude welder" as you stated, must be a person!!
NB Welding is a term used for joining large pieces of metal. When talking about circuit boards we normally say soldering not welding.
My Italian lessons (thanks to Chiara from Tomtom) are coming along nicely:
Alla fine della strada, girate a sinistra.
(But I don't care I could listen to Chiara's voice all day long)
mikechannon said:
I'm not sure what that black film on the central connectors is. Perhaps it's melted plastic from the connector housing. In any case you should be able to melt it off. (Be careful though because excess heat may be transferred into the board and start loosening other connections. The Hermes has a multilayered m/board and some connections are "sandwiched" between the layers).
I see the picture of the spray - I assume it is a metal polish? It may or may not conduct electricity - if it does that could cause serious problems even after it's cleaned off.
Mike
PS
By the way a welder can be a person who welds or a machine that welds. But you said that it was a rude welder. A machine cannot be rude, so a "rude welder" as you stated, must be a person!!
NB Welding is a term used for joining large pieces of metal. When talking about circuit boards we normally say soldering not welding.
My Italian lessons (thanks to Chiara from Tomtom) are coming along nicely:
Alla fine della strada, girate a sinistra.
(But I don't care I could listen to Chiara's voice all day long)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't try to add all them here because, you know, photobucket slideshow is so sexy
Thanks for the lesson I needed, much appreciated
I just realized the "rude" adjective refers to a person, I used it because in Italian saying something/someone is "rude" or "rudimentale" means it/he is simple, old, rudimentary or primitive...and here we use it for both things and people...think you'd say unkind if it was a person.
Speaking of the Hermes, those 2 black ""connectors"" you see on the board in that photo have not something "more" comparing to the others, but something LESS! It's sort of scaring after having read about the layers, because under the gold connectors, after having removed them, I could detach just a sort of LAYER (that's what I meant with film), which btw didn't seem conducting side-by-side
Will update when I have some time to try the cables ""solution""!
p.s. You'd LOVE Selen's sexy sensual voice for TomTom I think...she's (was) an Italian pornostar still well known...See Wiki!!
Did you remove the traces? That's almost what the pics look like. By that I mean the gold under the solder.
Just received my keyboard back from RMA, and this is how it looks:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
In case you are wondering, the box was in perfect condition. I am very, very angry right now and this was probably the last piece of hardware I bought from asus! Waiting a long time for spare parts for the repair, and then have the nerve to destroy my keyboard and just ship it back to me in this state! I can't even hook up the power plug anymore, so I suppose the drain issue is solved for me!
Update (14/09/2011): Today I finally received my dock back from asus. It once again spent a long time from home, due to asus miscommunication; I first had to wait a week for a response from asus on the damage, then after some hammering I could send it in for a free repair. Then after a week of "waiting for customer", they phoned me again asking for more pictures of the shipping box, when in fact the dock was already back at the repair facility... then a day later I got an invoice, asking me to pay 110 euro's for this repair which wasn't under warranty (mind you I can get a new one for less..). So I yet again had to explain, and after that things went smoothly, not counting DHL delivery. So 6-7 weeks after initially shipping it for the drain problem, I finally get to check if that has actually improved.
Needless to say I'm now very hesitant to buy any other asus gadget in the near future, especially because of the other repair damage threads that have popped up in the mean time
Just sent mine in. I took pictures of every side before returning so that they can't tell me it came to them that way. Keep us posted on their response. IMHO that screams new dock overnighted to you. Time to post this on their twitter site and see how long before they delete it.
BS - I'd be on the phone demanding an overnight replacement... don't even talk to the tier 1 people, demand a manager.
how can someone at the repair center send it out like that! Do they really thing the consumer will be like oh well and not complain. This really boggles my mind that they would do that.
Typical Asus repair.
Call them and DEMAND to speak to a manager. Do NOT take no for an answer.
Tell them that if they do not smarten up that everyone on the net will know your story. Sometimes a little Blackmail is in order.
Digiguest said:
Tell them that if they do not smarten up that everyone on the net will know your story. Sometimes a little Blackmail is in order.
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Yes, and this is one of the cases where they owe you a little extra. There should be a few power adapters and a case or two in the box with the replacement.
did you make the call yet??? I wanna know what they had to say
damn that sucks.
Could it have been from the shipping company? Packaging..handling.
Im sure theyll bring this up
wow.. now I'm worried. RMAed mine 10 minuites ago..
turbulent28 said:
damn that sucks.
Could it have been from the shipping company? Packaging..handling.
Im sure theyll bring this up
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe handling.. but OP said box was not damaged, so it was packed already damaged.
OP: I feel for you! That sucks BIG time!! Good luck getting a replacement!!!
(I'm worried now as I am preparing to ship mine to Asus this week).
I, for one, don't believe this. There's no way they'd ship out a dock in this condition knowingly. It is either a case of damage in shipping (it's quite possible that it could get damaged without visible damage to the box), or a case of an accidental switch with somebody else's damaged dock being returned to them.
Either way, I suggest the OP calms down, then calls and maybe gives whomever he talks to the benefit of the doubt, and an opportunity to fix the problem, rather than automatically assuming they deliberately smashed his dock up out of malice and sent it back to him, which is what the tone of his post would suggest.
And perhaps don't post next time until you've given the company you're slamming *any* opportunity to fix the problem, or even made them aware there's an issue.
Who said they deliberately did it? Nobody but you.
The issue is the quality control of their repair center, and if this was during shipping and the box wasnt destroyed then blame still belongs with who packs the box. Also, that is some pretty acute damage, even if it was even poorly packed that would be hard to reproduce.
My TF is on my way back now, I hope it doesn't look all busted up like that.
OMG. That is terrible damage, clearly caused by someone attempting to get into the dock, e.g. RMA repair *is* most likely culprit.
This is GUARANTEED not shipping damage - we can tell from the photo. I could be wrong, like, I have heard of rats living inside keypads, and coming out at night and chewing on computers. Yeah right.
If you contact ASUS directly, they should help you. I am SURE all of us here and on all the other tablet forums will want to know what happens next. Please keep us posted. Good luck.
I am sure hoping you do not need luck to get a replacement dock - it should be automatic.
Subscribed to this thread to know the outcome of this. Looks like the damage is not from shipping en route, but due to the handling of the dock.
ryan stewart said:
Who said they deliberately did it? Nobody but you.
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It was implied in statements such as that Asus "have the nerve to destroy my keyboard" (exact quote).
The issue is the quality control of their repair center, and if this was during shipping and the box wasnt destroyed then blame still belongs with who packs the box. Also, that is some pretty acute damage, even if it was even poorly packed that would be hard to reproduce.
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Click to collapse
You're talking without ANY knowledge of the case. For all you know, the guy didn't pack the thing properly when he shipped it IN to Asus, it was damaged en route to Asus due to his own packaging (and/or on the way back if they reused his provided packaging), and he entirely caused his own problem.
I'm not, incidentally, saying that's what happened -- just that there is not sufficient proof in this thread for anybody except the OP to know what really happened, and it was irresponsible of him to post this thread without giving Asus any opportunity to make right if it *was* their fault. (And having worked in a similar capacity with other companies myself in the past, I don't believe for one second that an Asus employee would knowingly damage the guy's dock and return it without repairing the damage, or not check for damage if they dropped it themselves -- if the damage really happened between being sent in and received back, it's near-guaranteed to have happened during shipping.)
There are far too many people in this forum who, for some reason, believe Asus to be out to get them, and immediately clutch straws on the worst possible conclusion rather than simply giving them an opportunity to work to resolve the problem.
Bob Smith42 said:
OMG. That is terrible damage, clearly caused by someone attempting to get into the dock, e.g. RMA repair *is* most likely culprit.
This is GUARANTEED not shipping damage - we can tell from the photo.
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Click to collapse
From the provided photo, it could not be *less* clear. It looks far more like impact damage to me (fatigued metal, dented around USB port, chipped finish nowhere near the seam between parts).
It would be beyond bizarre to see something like this resulting from an employee opening the case. People trying to get into products at home cause damage, because they don't have the correct tools, don't know where the latches and screws are located and how to get at them, don't have a way to release the latches simultaneously and have to resort to levering or hitting the case to try and release the latches, etc.
Professional service staff don't have any of these issues. We have the correct tools, and for high-volume items like this, we typically have tools specifically made to service the product (for example, a jig that you place the product into which applies the correct pressure at the correct points to release any latches so the case can be dismantled), not only to prevent damage, but also because it saves the employee's valuable time getting cases open so they can do more real work. We also know the locations of the screws and latches etc., and have generally been inside dozens if not hundreds of the things before, so we know precisely how to get a case apart without damage and quickly, even if it's a low-volume item that didn't merit making a specific jig for.
So no, as somebody who's done this work for a living, this doesn't look like damage made trying to enter the case. It looks like damage from a drop, either unprotected, or with insufficient protection.
Are you serious? Look at the damage. Shipping damage doesn't manifest itself as a white glue fingerprint nor does it stress one part of the bezel while leaving the other side completely intact. Notice the thinner strip is bent outwards, not inwards while the other side of the power port is fine. What kind of shipping damage does that? None. You'd have to wedge something in there and turn it to bend the weaker thinner strip outward or you'd have to pull on the weaker thinner strip from the outside with pliers.
Here's my two best bets on how this occurred just to show you how ridiculous that transit damage assertion is:
A screwdriver teleported into the gap between the two and during transit the box slammed onto a side which caused the screwdriver to bend the strip outward before promptly teleporting away.
The driver made a wrong turn and barely skimmed a black hole somewhere in the universe.
This was no shipping damage. If it was shipping damage it would present with a look as if it was slammed on a corner, not as if it was tooled apart.
Either the OP did it, another person did it or a service technician did it. This did not occur in transit, nor did it occur by itself.
You're also being entirely unreasonable to ask him to adopt a calm stance if it was a mistake. Calm would be acceptable if he hadn't paid the exorbitant return shipping fee Asus asks of all returns and if he hadn't waited weeks waiting for parts. Even if you're right and it was an accidental swap, he has a clear right to be ****ing enraged with the level of incompetence that occurred after he sent it to them on his own dime and time.
Tubular said:
A screwdriver teleported into the gap between the two and during transit the box slammed onto a side which caused the screwdriver to bend the strip outward before promptly teleporting away.
The driver made a wrong turn and barely skimmed a black hole somewhere in the universe.
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Click to collapse
Lmfao! That is the funniest **** I've read in a while.
Asus Transformer 3.2 pwnd
www.MiiWiiChat.com
www.SnapSiteAdmins.com
Non-asus-bashers also abound in this forum, to keep a proper balance. Lol...
Though probably not as easy as the S5, it still is technically removable and you can change the battery if you follow the directions, its in the Galaxy S6 manual on page 138
Here is the manual: http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/c...M-G920F_UM_EU_Lollipop_Eng_Rev.1.0_150302.pdf
DISCLAIMER: Attempting this on your own is doing so at your own risk, and I am not responsible for any damage to your phone
HERE IS A VIDEO OF HOW IT WORKS: http://youtu.be/gYDXuK_Hy3I
Not exactly an on-the-go process, though.
I wonder what's actually holding the glass cover on. It just says remove it. It can't just be laying on there. Maybe some type of adhesive that has to be heated. Either way, it seems that it will be easy to replace the battery.
beaverslayer said:
I wonder what's actually holding the glass cover on. It just says remove it. It can't just be laying on there. Maybe some type of adhesive that has to be heated. Either way, it seems that it will be easy to replace the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I read it was some adhesive. I hear you just need to heat the phone to melt the adhesive (apparently there is a video someone doing it with a blowdryer [Not with a Galaxy S6 but with another phone]), the pull the cover off and go on from there...doesn't seem that hard to do
smooth4lyfe said:
Yeah I read it was some adhesive. I hear you just need to heat the phone to melt the adhesive (apparently there is a video someone doing it with a blowdryer [Not with a Galaxy S6 but with another phone]), the pull the cover off and go on from there...doesn't seem that hard to do
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Click to collapse
Ya and voids the warranty, though! Not a problem after the first year though.
natefish said:
Not exactly an on-the-go process, though.
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Sent from my SM-G900T using AllianceR(●)m
"Non removable type"
Is this implying there is a type with a removable battery?
crazy talk said:
"Non removable type"
Is this implying there is a type with a removable battery?
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Click to collapse
http://www.phonearena.com/news/Alleged-Galaxy-S6-battery-pack-snapped-confirming-2600-mAh-capacity_id66182
The battery is like this..... it is a non-removable type for you on street or newbies but if you do it carefully in home then it is actually removable.
smooth4lyfe said:
Yeah I read it was some adhesive. I hear you just need to heat the phone to melt the adhesive (apparently there is a video someone doing it with a blowdryer [Not with a Galaxy S6 but with another phone]), the pull the cover off and go on from there...doesn't seem that hard to do
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Work in phone repairs.
Many phones require adhesive heating to get to the internals.
All the Sony's Z's, for example.
Thank god I can replace the battery relatively easily on the s6. I just saw a video of how to replace the battery on the HTC m8 and lol.
Sent from my GT-I9100
Nationalmaverick said:
Work in phone repairs.
Many phones require adhesive heating to get to the internals.
All the Sony's Z's, for example.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you would be able to do this easily...is it a special kind of adhesive? How easy is the process?
Im sure it works similar to this...cant be too hard!!
http://youtu.be/gYDXuK_Hy3I
It's removable in the same way that the iPhone 6 battery is removable....
smooth4lyfe said:
So you would be able to do this easily...is it a special kind of adhesive? How easy is the process?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep any phone repair place worth their salt will have a precise setup already in place for this, I obviously haven't seen the new Galaxies but its about a 45 minute process on the Zs and they're considered by our team to be a real pain relatively speaking.
Two thoughts come to mind. First, I do battery-pull reboots of my S5 all the time (it black screen locks up due to a hardware issue) and I think most of us that flash ROMs have done the same a few times over the years. For instance, how would you get out of download mode if you don't flash anything? I hope that's addressed somewhere.
Second, I hope it comes with everything it needs for wireless charging out of the box. The S5 supports it but needs a coil inserted inside the back cover. I hope that all goes down easily because I've switched to completely wireless charging these days.
bigray327 said:
Two thoughts come to mind. First, I do battery-pull reboots of my S5 all the time (it black screen locks up due to a hardware issue) and I think most of us that flash ROMs have done the same a few times over the years. For instance, how would you get out of download mode if you don't flash anything? I hope that's addressed somewhere.
Second, I hope it comes with everything it needs for wireless charging out of the box. The S5 supports it but needs a coil inserted inside the back cover. I hope that all goes down easily because I've switched to completely wireless charging these days.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ive used the one plus one, the LG G2, and the HTC one m7 all without removable backs. You just hold the power button. no matter where are you in the system partition, (recovery, system or download mode or fastboot mode) holding the power button will yield a reboot or a power off state. and to reply to this thread, its not an easy thing the average joe can do but i myself fix friends phones and have a heatgun so heating up the back glass to soften the adhesive and chnage the battery after the first or second year doesnt look like it'll be a problem. the problem i do have however is if the phone rejects the new battery. my LG G2 rejected the newer battery and that thing would die at 50% and not charge all the way. even after calibration. but back its original battery and everything worked fine again
bigray327 said:
Two thoughts come to mind. First, I do battery-pull reboots of my S5 all the time (it black screen locks up due to a hardware issue) and I think most of us that flash ROMs have done the same a few times over the years. For instance, how would you get out of download mode if you don't flash anything? I hope that's addressed somewhere.
Second, I hope it comes with everything it needs for wireless charging out of the box. The S5 supports it but needs a coil inserted inside the back cover. I hope that all goes down easily because I've switched to completely wireless charging these days.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
(1) For phones with non-removable batteries, there are certain buttons held together to perform hard reset, which is pretty much the same as a battery pull. I think for Samsung devices is Vol Down + Home Button
(2) The S6 is capable of wireless charging out the box, but its confirmed it will not come with a wireless charger in the box. The wireless charger is sold separately for $59.99
I feel famous
- https://bgr.com/2015/03/07/galaxy-s6-removable-battery/
- https://www.yahoo.com/tech/s/actually-remove-galaxy-s6-battery-just-takes-145938651.html
Judging from these leaked housings:
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The back will be adhered using some sort of adhesive, which is considerably difficult to remove by a user with little/no phone repair experience. As noted by the manual, those instructions "are only for your service provider or an authorised repair agent." By this logic, every smartphone (even the HTC One's sandwiched design) has a removable battery, just of varying process complexity.
Nationalmaverick said:
Work in phone repairs.
Many phones require adhesive heating to get to the internals.
All the Sony's Z's, for example.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If we're comparing Samsungs with Sonys, the S6 is more similar to the Z1 than it is to the Z3, because it also involves unscrewing a cover that covers the logic board. But in fact, the S6 is actually very similar to the S5 in that the back housing covering the internals also makes up the side bezel of the phone, albeit being disassembled screen-first, and it is not made of metal/glass. Otherwise, both the S5 and S6 have a mid-frame chassis on which the logic board is mounted on, covered by the back housing then the battery cover.
smooth4lyfe said:
Im sure it works similar to this...cant be too hard!!
http://youtu.be/gYDXuK_Hy3I
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Z3 in that video has been prepared in advance. Take a look at this video, and skip to 2:55:
The Z2 and Z3 both have that stretchy white adhesive holding the back down in the middle. If you expect the Z3's back cover to come off that easily, you're gonna have a bad time.
vantt1 said:
The Z3 in that video has been prepared in advance. Take a look at this video, and skip to 2:55:
The Z2 and Z3 both have that stretchy white adhesive holding the back down in the middle. If you expect the Z3's back cover to come off that easily, you're gonna have a bad time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Out of curiousity, is it a special adhesive that cannot be purchased in stores? Say a laymen person was to remove it on his own by watching a YouTube video. How would he be able to put the cover back on tightly?
smooth4lyfe said:
Out of curiousity, is it a special adhesive that cannot be purchased in stores? Say a laymen person was to remove it on his own by watching a YouTube video. How would he be able to put the cover back on tightly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are two ways of re-applying that adhesive:
1. Use a roll of black 3M tape, and cut it by hand and sticking it around the perimeter of the glass
2. Buy pre-cut double-sided tape that is made specifically for your application (recommended)
Pictured below is a typical roll of 3M tape, underneath a typical pre-cut tape:
The former may be able to be purchased in a hardware store, but the latter may not.
Hello all
I had a chance to buy 15 units of G3, all broken or faulty. The purchase was made via an Swiss operator who was about to recycle the devices, but instead of recycling I bought them via some program for that. They dont pay for recycling, I get the devices extremely cheap, no one pays any tax (Switzerland stuff and their laws)
First of all I want to say - LG made a phenomenal job of envisioning a device - G3 was superb compared to all the phones released in that time period (S5, OPO1, Z2/Z3, etc) with it's bleeding edge technology and phenomenal design (which I am sure inspired others to go bezel-less and edgy and so on). 2K screen, great chipset, infrared focus and insane camera quality, etc.
Only thing they made bad was actual hardware assembly: I have never seen such bad work in modern electronics judging just by the amount of extra-flux you can see on the motherboards, looks extremely sloppy. That kind of assembly eventually led to 1000 problems, which I am sure all of us G3 owners experienced past the 24 month warranty period. Some would go so far to say that this stuff with G3 could be considered Planned obsolescence with all the problems appearing just around the 24 months clock, and with the MM update (taking into account that LG held the Nexus flag at that moment and they went over their heads thinking they are going to surpass Samsung, just like Samsung did to HTC)
My 15 units were:
- 6 units BSOD
- 5 units screen flicker
- 2 units "wifi turning on"
- 2 units sim card removed and restart/No sim card/invalid card
Note: I am not electrician and I dont understand how to read schematics, all of my info came from people that I figured best know how to repair mobile phone stuff (and also speak THE WORST english)
G3 motherboard layout for future reference:
http://i.imgsafe.org/1b64bf1021.jpg
1. BSOD -
The problem is with bad BGA solder of MMC chip. Not the actual chip (very rare occurrence). In short: BGA Solder is type of assembly that uses little balls of solder instead of pins, to hold the chip in place. There are more than 60+ balls on the MMC chip so no homemade replacement is possible (there is actually a turkish video which is NOT the way to do it as the guy doesnt add new balls, just strips old ones away)
permanent solution: give it into a repair shop to replace or do a proper reball of the Sandisk memory chip
semi-permanent solution (sometimes works 100%): give the chip a heat of 120-150 celsius (no american units, sorry) for 2 minutes (using a high powered hair dryer of at least 2000W, or a proper heat-gun) with slight push (I used wooden objects so that Metalic ones wouldnt damage the chip) > this repaired total of 5 BSOD phones, just one went dead completely after several tries. ALL of my 5 units never went back to BSOD. Please, DO NOT use ovens or anything like that, If you dont have a god-damn hair dryer give it to a technician and ask him to blow it for a minute or so. Ovens WILL burn other parts of the board, and knowing how shi*ty the whole assembly is, baking the board will just detach other chips. If you apply pressure to the chip, use something wooden like a chopstick or a pencil (dont use bamboo, it will release oils, use dry wood)
2. screen flicker -
The problem IS NOT a graphic chip (analogix), the problem is NOT CPU, as many have speculated in the past and the people who putt thermal paste over a CPU need serious education on the topic. Thermal paste is in no way a magical substance that lowers temperature when applied - it's purpose is to fill the gaps between a heating body (CPU) and heat dispenser (cooling unit, cooler, aluminum grill, etc), so thermal paste is a gap filler, not a cooling magical stuff. With that out of the picture, the problem of the screen flicker is a completely separate integrated circuit which goes haywire due to some magnetic stuff:
PERMANENT SOLUTION (homemade doable):
Now first, go back to motherboard image, and on the front side of the board find Gyro Sensor chip - just above that chip, there is a grid of 5x5 pin-like circuits.
http://i.imgsafe.org/1ba7e9ccc9.jpg
Now that you have located them, that is your LCD screen flicker solution: I didnt quite understand what is really going on there, but you need to apply heat (just like in the BSOD solution, same time same temperature), and use metallic object to "clean" the pins. He explained to me that the screen flicker is due to some magnetic residue that builds up in that circuits, and a clean metal will remove it. (how that is even possible I dont know but the solution works) Long story short - I used a really fine metallic brush (Dremel set) and once I heated it up, just strolled with brush over those pin-heads. According to the guy, the metallic object needed for cleaning should be non-magnetic. If you dont remove the screen flicker at first, use a really fine object to give all the pins a push (once heated), I used broken needle (regular needle is too sharp) or smallest Phillips screwdriver in my set. IMPORTANT: when doing this, there is a ton of chips nearby so it's smart to protect rest of the board with Alu-foil
total of my 5 screen flicker units NEVER went back to screen flicker issue. Special note: 2 of my units after completely removed screen flicker issue, immediately went to "no sim card" issue and I dont know how that is connected, but there is also a method for sim-card issue repair further down the topic
3. Wifi turning on/wifi grayed out/wifi scanning
The problem over here is also not the problem of the actual Wifi chip (motherboard image back side, red mark). The problem is the power controller located on the front side (red mark). It is also a BGA solder issue so it's repairable
permanent solution: reball or replace chip in proper mobile service shop
semi-permanent solluton: Use the same method of repairing as for the BSOD problem, but with applying heat + pressure onto the power controller chip. Be careful as there are tons of IC's nearby. Homemade solution worked partially for me - one unit (out of 2) is completely repaired, other unit actually went dead (I believe I gave it too much pressure, that was my first repair )
4. Sim card removed and restart/No sim card/invalid card -
The problem with this is also not a problem of RF chip (backside green) or the 2g/3g/4g chip (backside light red), and it is NOT a problem of Sim card slot: it's one lousy mo-fo chip that's not even listed in the hardware parts image, and it's only noted in the actual schematics (I believe it's a chip for regulating power onto the sim card slot and transferring data further)
this one (red arrow pointing onto it):
http://i.imgsafe.org/1c52a74d87.jpg
permanent solution: replace, reball or reflow in service shops (when I say replace, it makes sense as new chips out of the box have BGA balls already on it, just need to place it and heat it up)
semi-permanent solution: same method goes like BSOD and wifi problems - apply heat and moderate pressure with wooden object. The problem with this one is that it will reappear as a problem. I had one unit in the service shop where the repair guy gave it some insane heat for 5-6 seconds while protecting rest of the board, and it was permanent, no sim problem any more. In homemade variant, the problem seems almost unable to fix, but you need to be persistent. sometimes it takes 4-5 tries for the phone (placing the board, and removing it again and so on is a pain in the arse) to recognize sim and after that you are good for a month or so, once it "catches" I gave it a try with a higher temperature / less time (200c, 30 seconds) and it shows better results, I dont need to try the board for 3-4-5 times until it recognizes the SIM, it's imediately good to go, but even with that it reappears after a month, 2 months, but sometimes after only couple of days
one unit is permanent (reflow in service shop), others (repaired screen flickers that went "no sim card" ) bug me still with reappearing SIM problem.
There you go, I wanted to share this with everyone so you people wouldnt lose your mind with paper tricks, ovens, and such, as G3 is still really powerful device and it would be bad for all the units to end up in a bin. I am using 3/32 version with fulmics and it works as any new 600 usd device, if G3 still works without a flaw there is really no need to go newer, not yet.
END NOTE: every attempt at trying this is on your own responsibility, I am not responsible if you fry your board, break your device, or tear your flex cables and such.
END NOTE2: in my experience, dont attempt to try the newly repaired board with battery less than 40%, I wont get into it right now but all Li-ion/Li-poly devices work at their best when there is a good charge
good luck with potential experiments fellow XDA people
Thank you for this thread, I'm sure it will help a lot of more technologically-minded users on XDA. As for me, I did have a sim card removed problem but thankfully it appeared within my warranty period so I took it to them and they replaced the entire PCB (MoBo).
Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info. After troubleshooting a few BSOD & flicker phones I came to pretty much the same conclusion as well. Although some temporary G3 fixes work for a short time, nothing is actually "repaired" until you replace the BGA ball solder; so unless you have the proper equipment to work on BGA components you're kind of screwed.
LG has a quality problem with their manufacturing techniques of their motherboards; the latest issue was bootloop issues on the later G-series phones that were also tied to poor soldering(which they are now being sued over). It's a shame too, because I like LG's devices...just hard to trust them completely at this point. But I guess that's the philosophy of these huge OEM's these days: skimp on quality to meet sales demands. Samsung is a good example of this as well with their exploding note 7's and red tinted S8 displays(that they refuse to admit is a hardware problem - "lets just make the red tint slider longer!" just like their software "fix" for the Note 7 battery that didn't work and eventually required a massive recall). Buying a phone is turning into a crap shoot these days
@startswithPendswithOOH - you are right about everything, they really have crappy assembly. But for me, almost all of BSOD and screen flicker issues are repairable in the home conditions using methods from original post. Luckily I do have a professional heat gun so I can even experiment on the temperature and time of heating and my repair rate is great (fortunately I had 15 devices to experiment on). I actually made some money of it, sold almost all of them that were repaired and not a single buyer called me back with a problem. My girlfriend and my nephew are going with my repaired G3s and they use it constantly. Especially my girl, she abuses it to the point that I get annoyed and remove all her running apps (sums up to 20+ ) cause she uses just 10 of some social apps and such, her phone should overheat and problems should reappear if it were not for a good repair. She usesd BSOD repaired device and didnt have one for 4 months now
Update on possible solution for the sim card problem
I did a little tempering with a piece of dry wood, and I made it EXACTLY into a shape of the square of the SIM card chip (described in the original post). I used a stick and shaped it with dremel sandpapering tool, to be exactly the size of the square. Then I putt a cloth underneath the board (so when applying pressure from the upper side you wont break some other stuff opposite) and made a pressure with wooden stick, approximately the force needed to pierce the styrofoam with index finger. That's about the strongest pressure you can give it, and not damage the board. heated it up with 200c with a heat gun for a minute
6th day without problems, without sim card failure, should be noted that I am abusing that board via data and calls going all the time and it seems the problem is solved, will report again in 3 weeks (full month)
Hey!
Do you have any fix for rear camera problem?
Sp3cTeR said:
Hey!
Do you have any fix for rear camera problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well I do - only problem with rear camera should be - replace rear camera :cyclops:
Oooooh, I stand corrected after a bit of google-ing. I see that it IS an actual problem with no solution, camera sometimes works, sometimes it doesnt. Well, it could be yet another chip on the board, actually the way people described the problem on Androidcentral forums, seems it's 100% a chip issue. If it was HW issue it would work or not work, this partial usability points to another motherboard problem
anyways you should check all the stuff that should NOT be motherboard issue
1. camera module gone bad - replacement should be extremely cheap, check out service shops for spare or Aliexpress for mega-cheap spare, if you know how to open ask someone with G3 to replace cam modules for couple of days to check
2. camera flex cable - in the process of fiddling with the phone and removing motherboard several times, one can easily tear the flex cable of the cam, examine it
3. motherboard connector for camera - for this I really dont see even a remote chance of happening, but im still mentioning it
4. software problem - eliminate the possibility of tempering with root access with files, by doing a factory reset
Well, just bought lg g3 for $60. Pretty clean. The problem was that owner couldn't get it out of Firwmare Upgrade screen, had no experience nor time / patience. So I bought it. Later that night, managed to flash v10e from lgg3root(dot)com tutorial for it. From the first try.
But using the phone got laggier and laggier, and if I were to do multiple tasks like switching between apps and stuff like this, the phone would freeze and then in about 15-20 seconds it would give me the LG logo and pretty much stay there, eventually giving the "kernel crashed" screen (BSOD ?? )
Please, what do u think the problem is?
Managed eventually get v20h / v30b on it but was pretty much unusable, and most of the time, when trying to get it connect with the ADB and run "reboot recovery" and do factory wipe, it would just crash again. Now I'm stuggling to get v10e again on it ... but it's really a pain. I've got about a week worth of hours into making it work. Please, read my thread to get some more 'clues' https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/help/help-horrible-experience-d855-t3600094
AKAndrew41 said:
Well, just bought lg g3 for $60. Pretty clean. The problem was that owner couldn't get it out of Firwmare Upgrade screen, had no experience nor time / patience. So I bought it. Later that night, managed to flash v10e from lgg3root(dot)com tutorial for it. From the first try.
But using the phone got laggier and laggier, and if I were to do multiple tasks like switching between apps and stuff like this, the phone would freeze and then in about 15-20 seconds it would give me the LG logo and pretty much stay there, eventually giving the "kernel crashed" screen (BSOD ?? )
Please, what do u think the problem is?
Managed eventually get v20h / v30b on it but was pretty much unusable, and most of the time, when trying to get it connect with the ADB and run "reboot recovery" and do factory wipe, it would just crash again. Now I'm stuggling to get v10e again on it ... but it's really a pain. I've got about a week worth of hours into making it work. Please, read my thread to get some more 'clues' https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/help/help-horrible-experience-d855-t3600094
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, the links arr down?
i fixed my screen flickering issue thank you so much i will report if it comes back it's no problem for me but the fix you described works that means those circuits have something to do with this,i would like to know if it's possible to clean those circuits with alcohol it's maybe stupid but idk you tell me other than that thank you
edit:it's back sorry if got anyone excited,i'm back to putting the pressure on the SOC
Thank bro u saved my device!
Updated : flickering to fading comes again after less than an hour with less usage , just charging it, so i tried heated up and put pressure again but this time on the processor.
Igoritza said:
4. Sim card removed and restart/No sim card/invalid card -
The problem with this is also not a problem of RF chip (backside green) or the 2g/3g/4g chip (backside light red), and it is NOT a problem of Sim card slot: it's one lousy mo-fo chip that's not even listed in the hardware parts image, and it's only noted in the actual schematics (I believe it's a chip for regulating power onto the sim card slot and transferring data further)
this one (red arrow pointing onto it):
http://i.imgsafe.org/1c52a74d87.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well done mate, but according to service manual the chip you pointing with red arrow is NFC
Im bit confused now what it have to do with the sim
As far as i think, if bsod or screen flicker comes up, theres no need to fix it because its dead, so just buy a new mobo and thats it.
startswithPendswithOOH said:
Thanks for the info. After troubleshooting a few BSOD & flicker phones I came to pretty much the same conclusion as well. Although some temporary G3 fixes work for a short time, nothing is actually "repaired" until you replace the BGA ball solder; so unless you have the proper equipment to work on BGA components you're kind of screwed.
LG has a quality problem with their manufacturing techniques of their motherboards; the latest issue was bootloop issues on the later G-series phones that were also tied to poor soldering(which they are now being sued over). It's a shame too, because I like LG's devices...just hard to trust them completely at this point. But I guess that's the philosophy of these huge OEM's these days: skimp on quality to meet sales demands. Samsung is a good example of this as well with their exploding note 7's and red tinted S8 displays(that they refuse to admit is a hardware problem - "lets just make the red tint slider longer!" just like their software "fix" for the Note 7 battery that didn't work and eventually required a massive recall). Buying a phone is turning into a crap shoot these days
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Preach on. Lol i got a g4 im in the lawsuit over
Yeah black screen comes back when the tmperature was hot. So its time to throw away this crap g3. Hopeless .
2 years ago a yellow coffe spot appeared on the top corner of my lg3 display, so i sent back to warranty and they changed the lcd screen.
Some month after the same coffe spot appear in the same area, i brought back the phone in warranty they changed the lcd. again
Now i have the problem for the 3rd time, im not in warranty anymore.
In my opinion is not the lcd, the lcd cant burn itself in that way, i think is a glue problem and maybe i can buy a new 13$ glass on amazon and replace it.
But before to risk to broke the phone, anyone experienced that?
This is an image i found on google image, is not my G3 but that explain my situation.
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L33TaS said:
As far as i think, if bsod or screen flicker comes up, theres no need to fix it because its dead, so just buy a new mobo and thats it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that's is also a temporary solution,if you're wasting money better buy another smartphone that is no an lg,go with another reliable brand
Khalid47 said:
i fixed my screen flickering issue thank you so much i will report if it comes back it's no problem for me but the fix you described works that means those circuits have something to do with this,i would like to know if it's possible to clean those circuits with alcohol it's maybe stupid but idk you tell me other than that thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how close did you hold the heat gun/ hair dryer?
Khalid47 said:
that's is also a temporary solution,if you're wasting money better buy another smartphone that is no an lg,go with another reliable brand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is true. I bought a new mobo from DhGate to fix the famous "WiFi saved but not connecting issue" only to end up with the screen flickering, lines, and fade to black issue with the replacement mobo. I want to get a new phone but I'm waiting for the note 8/ pixel 2 .
unbreakabl3 said:
how close did you hold the heat gun/ hair dryer?
This is true. I bought a new mobo from DhGate to fix the famous "WiFi saved but not connecting issue" only to end up with the screen flickering, lines, and fade to black issue with the replacement mobo. I want to get a new phone but I'm waiting for the note 8/ pixel 2 .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i held a hairdryer for 3 mins with my hand i'm thinking the problem will comeback but i don't care i fixed it many times temporarely,as for the mobo you shouldn't have wasted your money it's really dumb people who buy it again we already know that it will die really what's the point of that,as for your future daily driver i would recommand you go with a sony i'm not working for them or anything i had a sony and my brother has one never experienced anything hardware related or software related,just talking from my experience with this brand i can't advise you something that i never tried samsung or xiaomi etc...,goodluck with your fixing
Khalid47 said:
i held a hairdryer for 3 mins with my hand i'm thinking the problem will comeback but i don't care i fixed it many times temporarely,as for the mobo you shouldn't have wasted your money it's really dumb people who buy it again we already know that it will die really what's the point of that,as for your future daily driver i would recommand you go with a sony i'm not working for them or anything i had a sony and my brother has one never experienced anything hardware related or software related,just talking from my experience with this brand i can't advise you something that i never tried samsung or xiaomi etc...,goodluck with your fixing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i meant how far away from the chip did you hold the hairdryer? 10cm, 20cm etc.
well I wanted to keep the phone going till the Fall lol.. and plus i didnt think that the replacement would have issues tbh. Thanks for the recommendation. I'll look into them.
I ordered online a motherboard for my dead N910G due to EMMC bug and I'm thinking on what I'm gonna do to prevent It from happening again on the new motherboard. I didn't yet receive the new motherboard and I'm assuming that it is currently on Android 5.0.
Do I need to stay in Lollipop and don't bother to upgrade it to Marshmallow? Or maybe, put a custom rom instead? Or how about putting another layer of material between the emmc and the thermal pad(though, I'm thinking to replace the thermal pad with something thicker instead, maybe 2.0mm)~I'm quite aware that this one is "fix" for Note 4s already experiencing emmc bug. Or is it something that's inevitable and probably die again within months or years?
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Did you read?
https://forum.xda-developers.com/note-4/help/100-fix-galaxy-note-4-emmc-error-random-t3859448
Heros2002 said:
Did you read?
https://forum.xda-developers.com/note-4/help/100-fix-galaxy-note-4-emmc-error-random-t3859448
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm thinking of doing this too but this is more of a "fix" for note 4's that's already experiencing emmc errors instead of a prevention. But putting a fresh thermal pad can't really do harm so I might try to do this.
mikel023 said:
I ordered online a motherboard for my dead N910G due to EMMC bug and I'm thinking on what I'm gonna do to prevent It from happening again on the new motherboard. I didn't yet receive the new motherboard and I'm assuming that it is currently on Android 5.0.
Do I need to stay in Lollipop and don't bother to upgrade it to Marshmallow? Or maybe, put a custom rom instead? Or how about putting another layer of material between the emmc and the thermal pad(though, I'm thinking to replace the thermal pad with something thicker instead, maybe 2.0mm)~I'm quite aware that this one is "fix" for Note 4s already experiencing emmc bug. Or is it something that's inevitable and probably die again within months or years?
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My understanding of the eMMC chip failure is following: it is due to the crack in the soldering. Have a vague memory of reading that Samsung even got sued for using bad materials. Anyway - Some temporarily fix the issue with cardbord (linked above), which then i believe works simply by pressing the components together and thus in best case re-establishing the electric contact within the circuit. Tried that myself, didn't work for me. Certain apps will perhaps help just a period of time by tweaking some settings, which i believe relieves the pressure off of the chip. To hold the phone in the freezer every now and then to get it to start is just not feasable. Did that too, works for a while, again, probably due to the material shrinking a bit in the cold thus making components connect again. What remains for me to try is actually having it in the oven for couple of minutes (yes, people have tried that too... ). I have a couple of old spare ones so it's not bigger shame if they break completelly.
But these are all my experiences with workarounds/temporary fixes when issue ALREADY is there.
I did replace a few motherboards. Those i orderered came with Marshmallow, which i was happy with. Don't know where you ordered yours from, I got mine from China but no issues anyway. If you got it from China, check the IMEI number tho. Specially the motherboards on older phones can suffer from bad IMEIs. Also use some app that can see in the system if it is the right chip you have, otherwise trying to flash custom roms might not end well…
My experience has so far been good. After replacement i played with both stock and custom roms and so far nothing broke again after more than half a year. As for your question of prevention - so far i haven't found anything that would lead me to believe that it might prevent it from happening again. So i got me a spare Note4. And a couple of spare motherboards in case they break. I don't really want to open those i use as daily drivers, since they never really feel as tight afterwards. And as far as i understand, there is no way to predict if your motherboard is going to break. So it's a gamble.
Edit:
And a friendly piece of advice regarding the replacement itself: take your time and preferably couple of valiums. I armed myself with lots of videos on youtube on how to do it so I started thinking i was a pro, which i clearly wasnt so i didn't take the time. So i took me a couple of broken screens before i mastered the art of … not breaking the screen. Not every time at least…
Use heat gun. Right tools. And did i mention to take your time?
Btw - the two connectors (you'll see which ones i mean in due time) are a pain to connect. THERE you can use some padding to sort of lift the connectors that are on the phone so that the connectors on the motherboard can click in them more easily.
Good luck!
prkfsz said:
I did replace a few motherboards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HI - did you replaced a MB from a Snapdragon variant with another MB from Exynos variant, please?
Like I have my son's 910F and I'd like to buy a replacement MB of 910C.
Any experience on this? I understood from other users that there are some issues with cameras. Probably no show stopper for me, but just to confirm if that's the case and if after replacing cameras all was ok.
Apologize to OP ( @mikel023 ) for intrusion.
Thanks.
w41ru5 said:
HI - did you replaced a MB from a Snapdragon variant with another MB from Exynos variant, please?
Like I have my son's 910F and I'd like to buy a replacement MB of 910C.
Any experience on this? I understood from other users that there are some issues with cameras. Probably no show stopper for me, but just to confirm if that's the case and if after replacing cameras all was ok.
Apologize to OP ( @mikel023 ) for intrusion.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I worked only with 910F, that meant replacing Snapdragon with same version of Snapdragon. So i can't say anything about that kind of issues.
prkfsz said:
I worked only with 910F, that meant replacing Snapdragon with same version of Snapdragon. So i can't say anything about that kind of issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks
prkfsz said:
My understanding of the eMMC chip failure is following: it is due to the crack in the soldering. Have a vague memory of reading that Samsung even got sued for using bad materials. Anyway - Some temporarily fix the issue with cardbord (linked above), which then i believe works simply by pressing the components together and thus in best case re-establishing the electric contact within the circuit. Tried that myself, didn't work for me. Certain apps will perhaps help just a period of time by tweaking some settings, which i believe relieves the pressure off of the chip. To hold the phone in the freezer every now and then to get it to start is just not feasable. Did that too, works for a while, again, probably due to the material shrinking a bit in the cold thus making components connect again. What remains for me to try is actually having it in the oven for couple of minutes (yes, people have tried that too... ). I have a couple of old spare ones so it's not bigger shame if they break completelly.
But these are all my experiences with workarounds/temporary fixes when issue ALREADY is there.
I did replace a few motherboards. Those i orderered came with Marshmallow, which i was happy with. Don't know where you ordered yours from, I got mine from China but no issues anyway. If you got it from China, check the IMEI number tho. Specially the motherboards on older phones can suffer from bad IMEIs. Also use some app that can see in the system if it is the right chip you have, otherwise trying to flash custom roms might not end well…
My experience has so far been good. After replacement i played with both stock and custom roms and so far nothing broke again after more than half a year. As for your question of prevention - so far i haven't found anything that would lead me to believe that it might prevent it from happening again. So i got me a spare Note4. And a couple of spare motherboards in case they break. I don't really want to open those i use as daily drivers, since they never really feel as tight afterwards. And as far as i understand, there is no way to predict if your motherboard is going to break. So it's a gamble.
Edit:
And a friendly piece of advice regarding the replacement itself: take your time and preferably couple of valiums. I armed myself with lots of videos on youtube on how to do it so I started thinking i was a pro, which i clearly wasnt so i didn't take the time. So i took me a couple of broken screens before i mastered the art of … not breaking the screen. Not every time at least…
Use heat gun. Right tools. And did i mention to take your time?
Btw - the two connectors (you'll see which ones i mean in due time) are a pain to connect. THERE you can use some padding to sort of lift the connectors that are on the phone so that the connectors on the motherboard can click in them more easily.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I expect to receive the new motherboard within this week and I already disassembled it in advance. I managed to almost separated the lcd screen to the motherboard tray because I didn't watch closely enough the tutorial that I'm following to and I wedged the prying tool parallel to the screen. Fortunately, nothing cracked and it seems the screen held up fine, (well.. hopefully.. still crossing my fingers 'til the motherboard arrives. lol)
By the way, I have a few questions regarding on reassembling it back. First, can I replace the thermal pads with thicker one? 1 or 2mm thick is what I can buy here locally. And second, can I use something like B7000 glue to reattach the screen to the frame? I'm gonna put it along the red line shown on the image below.
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I'm looking forward to "that connector". I hope it doesn't give me too much headache. lol
Thanks!
mikel023 said:
I expect to receive the new motherboard within this week and I already disassembled it in advance. I managed to almost separated the lcd screen to the motherboard tray because I didn't watch closely enough the tutorial that I'm following to and I wedged the prying tool parallel to the screen. Fortunately, nothing cracked and it seems the screen held up fine, (well.. hopefully.. still crossing my fingers 'til the motherboard arrives. lol)
By the way, I have a few questions regarding on reassembling it back. First, can I replace the thermal pads with thicker one? 1 or 2mm thick is what I can buy here locally. And second, can I use something like B7000 glue to reattach the screen to the frame? I'm gonna put it along the red line shown on the image below.
I'm looking forward to "that connector". I hope it doesn't give me too much headache. lol
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Regarding thermal pads i am reasoning this way: given the supposed cause of the issue, installing thermal pads would perhaps only delay the outbreak of the issue for a while, should it occure. Putting too much thermal pads would on the other hand perhaps put too much physical strain strain on the circuits, well, depending on how soft or hard they are. So if you're planning on scraping the old thermal pads, i'd go with 2mm ones, otherwise 1mm.
Please remember tho that i am not an expert even tho i did read up considerably about the issue. So i cannot guarantee one approach or the other is the right one.
As for the glue, i never used it. Used one of these instead:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Reason i never used the glue is that it's not unusual that after you assemble stuff, it turns out something is not working right so you have to disassemble. Then you make everything work, assemble it again, and then something won't work anyway. Especially so when you are still learning. So i never dared using glue because having to open it again after having used glue would make one glorious mess. I was learning and, well, playing. Besides, like i said, i never had to disassemble any of my daily drivers so it didn't matter that they perhaps don't seem to sit 100% tight.
prkfsz said:
Regarding thermal pads i am reasoning this way: given the supposed cause of the issue, installing thermal pads would perhaps only delay the outbreak of the issue for a while, should it occure. Putting too much thermal pads would on the other hand perhaps put too much physical strain strain on the circuits, well, depending on how soft or hard they are. So if you're planning on scraping the old thermal pads, i'd go with 2mm ones, otherwise 1mm.
Please remember tho that i am not an expert even tho i did read up considerably about the issue. So i cannot guarantee one approach or the other is the right one.
As for the glue, i never used it. Used one of these instead:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Reason i never used the glue is that it's not unusual that after you assemble stuff, it turns out something is not working right so you have to disassemble. Then you make everything work, assemble it again, and then something won't work anyway. Especially so when you are still learning. So i never dared using glue because having to open it again after having used glue would make one glorious mess. I was learning and, well, playing. Besides, like i said, i never had to disassemble any of my daily drivers so it didn't matter that they perhaps don't seem to sit 100% tight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just for update, the motherboard finally arrived today and mounted it temporarily yet just to test it. I'm still waiting for the adhesive and the thermal pad before I can seal everything shut. I tried to connect it to charger and the vibrator motor "bleeps" for few millisecond but the screen didn't turned on. Does this just mean that I didn't connected the connectors at the back properly? I only tried it once and I didn't put a padding like what you've said on the connectors yet.
mikel023 said:
Just for update, the motherboard finally arrived today and mounted it temporarily yet just to test it. I'm still waiting for the adhesive and the thermal pad before I can seal everything shut. I tried to connect it to charger and the vibrator motor "bleeps" for few millisecond but the screen didn't turned on. Does this just mean that I didn't connected the connectors at the back properly? I only tried it once and I didn't put a padding like what you've said on the connectors yet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean the battery indicator doesn't come on on the screen when you connect the device to charger? Can't really say, i think it should come on, yes. To check that - when charging, try and press the start button shortly, that usually wakes it up and it will show the battery indicator on the screen if you connected the MB properly. But why don't you try and start it up if you got the new MB connected? Then you can see if it works and if it's connected properly.
Usually if you get the connectors right, you will hear a 'click' when they connect.
prkfsz said:
You mean the battery indicator doesn't come on on the screen when you connect the device to charger? Can't really say, i think it should come on, yes. To check that - when charging, try and press the start button shortly, that usually wakes it up and it will show the battery indicator on the screen if you connected the MB properly. But why don't you try and start it up if you got the new MB connected? Then you can see if it works and if it's connected properly.
Usually if you get the connectors right, you will hear a 'click' when they connect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another update, I took my time connecting the new MB but still, the screen won't turn on just like the first time I connected it just to test. The LED lights up red indicating that it's charging and I connected it to my PC and it shows up on the device manager. When I press the power button, it vibrates indicating that it is indeed turning on. Also tried entering to recovery and download mode with no avail.
it's really just the screen is refusing to connect or something. I already shoved a piece of cardboard to the connectors and I hear a satisfying click when pushing the MB in place. Should I just keep trying on reconnecting the mb?
P.S: I'm starting to think that I might just killed the screen accidentally.
mikel023 said:
Another update, I took my time connecting the new MB but still, the screen won't turn on just like the first time I connected it just to test. The LED lights up red indicating that it's charging and I connected it to my PC and it shows up on the device manager. When I press the power button, it vibrates indicating that it is indeed turning on. Also tried entering to recovery and download mode with no avail.
it's really just the screen is refusing to connect or something. I already shoved a piece of cardboard to the connectors and I hear a satisfying click when pushing the MB in place. Should I just keep trying on reconnecting the mb?
P.S: I'm starting to think that I might just killed the screen accidentally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check thoroughly up close the integrity of the LCD directly under the glass. If it's broken, then there will sometimes be very tiny cracks in it.
But of course try and re-connect everything again. Don't forget the Little black screw on the left hand side of the MB when you're reconnecting it. Sometimes it won't work without that screw in place. Try also and remove the extra thermal pads you said you would install.
PS. There are LCDs for N4 on aliexpress that nowadays don't go for much. Tried several sorts and they usually work good.
If it's any consolation, the N4 is apparently one of the trickiest devices to work with…
I can confirm that, to some degree, snapdragon and exynos motherboards are compatible.
I had a N910A with a defective mobo and a N910U with a cracked screen. So I placed the N910U mobo in the N910A body. I used 910U modems and everything works fine, with the exception of s pen silo detection, which could be a result of this.