Looking at possibly purchasing an android head unit for my 2015 Chevy Cruze and would like to use my portable USB DAC to get a digital signal to my DSP.
Does anyone know if audio over USB is possible on any of these units?
Hi,
I can try to connect my old SteelSeries USB DAC that worked on other Android devices.
Tested, and DAC Controls work (Voli+/-, MUTE, MIC ON) which means that USB DAC is detected correctly, but unfortunately there is no settings for selecting it as output, but again I'm on Stock non root HA Firmware.
NOTE: I tested same DAC on Alcatel Idol 3 and as soon as I connected USB it switched output to DAC immediately so it works without a hinch.
Here is the device I tested on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJ9K4G/ and some pics of device.
Is this supposed to be slapstick/humor?
You will need to elaborate your statement, so that I understand what you meant by it.
marchnz said:
Is this supposed to be slapstick/humor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are referring to my question, it was legitimate. After doing more research I have found the audio is all being controlled by the MCU and not by the Android operating system.
I was hoping it would work similar to my current signal chain which is Samsung Galaxy S8+ > OTG Adapter > Muse Portable DAC > MiniDSP.
Then, answer: Maybe I found it as interesting thing to test especially as I was missing a lot of Low Level Audio Access on Android.
I tend to agree on your findings in Alcatel Developer settings I can clearly set Audio Source for USB (see attachment) and it is Automatically selected when I insert DAC.in OTG like as you pointed for your S8+
Investigating it further and connecting to various Devices I've found one very very strange that Support is directly connected to Kernel "sound support soundcore module" and ALSA, to clam that I've done something interesting and connected the card to my QNAP NAS USB port to see what happen and on my surprise I got Audio OUT on my NAS Music App showed additional option for Audio Source "Internal Sound Card" and it worked flawlessly. So question is what we are missing in PX5 Kernel to make that working.
Related
I wanted to know how to connect via USB to my cars audio system.
I used this tutorial: http://www.mobiletechworld.com/2010/11/18/use-your-windows-phone-7-device-as-a-portable-usb-drive/
I can now store and retrieve picture files from the phone but I still cannot play music files on my cars audio system. It seems as if the phone turns off this feature when my cars head unit tries to communicate with it via USB.
I also cannot connect via bluetooth.
I have read that some folks have been successful in implementing this feat. I really dont want to use the headphone jack because I cannot control the phones audio via my head unit. I guess I am looking to set it up legacy style like my previous phones eg iphone, nexus one, milestone etc.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The portable USB 'trick' doesn't make the device a USB Mass Storage device. It's a client-side registry modification that only makes the device viewable in windows explorer (legacy mode). It's still running its communications over the proprietary MTPz zune-sync protocol. This is why after running the registry modification, you can't just plug your WP7 into another computer and have it pop up, and also why it requires the Zune software to be installed, and to sync up first for it to work.
This is also why it won't/can't work with your USB capable audio system. It has absolutely no ability to do Zune protocol sync (as far as I'm aware, Kenwood made a head unit that could, but I don't know if it works with WP7. I'd doubt it), and despite the misreporting of various sites, your WP7 is not magically now a mass storage device.
Bluetooth may or may not work. I don't know about A2DP support on either your car's head unit, or WP7, and it may be specific to the device/manufacturer as to whether this is present (I have no idea). If bluetooth doesn't work, you're pretty much **** out of luck.
Headphone jack is your best (only) option. I can't recall if the supplied headphone cable has inline media controls. If so, you could probably macguyver that into a line-in cable for your stereo and use the media controls on that. Ghetto, but workable.
wow, that really sucks.. I am liking this phone less and less...
Does anyone know of a kernel allowing users to "hot plug" a USB DAC to get audio out?
Poitee and Trinity seems to support at least USB audio after a reboot, but so far I have had no luck identifying something that will simply allow me to place my Nexus 7 in my dock (with OTG USB DAC connected) and have the audio automatically routed through the external USB DAC.
Therefore, does anyone know of a rom/kernel allowing this (since my Samsung Galaxy S3 can do this)?
No one out there who knows? :crying:
I'll second this. I am installing my Nexus 7 semi-permanent in my Car, and i'd like to take it out and use internal sound without rebooting it every single time.
// Per.
Yeah, I was keen on making a car install too, but this is for a dock I am building.
I can tell you it involves B&O design and pure awesomeness, guess I cannot post images or give links until I reach 10 posts though.
Hotplug USB audio is indeed possible on the Nexus 7, it seems that a few of us all have similar plans for our Nexus's
Give this a try -> http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2029728
If you have any issues try and reply in that thread so we keep them all in the same place.
I got a UG007 ii from Amazon for $50. I ordered the original version UG007 but got the one with two microUSB ports, research shows it is the UG007 ii. Very lucky to get a free upgrade, but after reading some other forums also very lucky to not get a *clone*. After reading about clones, and ordering problems, I can report complete success and happiness.
Not many thorough guides and lots of random stabs at getting rooted. Some of the downloads set off my Avira anti virus which was bad, so anything not totally clean was deleted and not used.
DRIVERS: Getting the drivers to work on Window 7 x64bit took some searching and work. I was surprised that both microUSB ports will supply power to the UG007, but only the microUSB next to the microSD slot will work for adb. Also, there is an extra USB section in the settings that allows your device to communicate (at all) with the PC. Wrapping my head around the fact the UG007 ii device defaults to supporting multiple USB host ports, it makes sense there is a switch to reverse the defaults for connecting to a PC. Twisted brain stuff. LOL.
ROOT: Many various methods exist. I found only one root method that worked, and all others I tested failed. After the drivers are working, it is very easy to root using TPSarky-VonDroid-Root.zip. I really like this method installs SuperSU, and I updated it via the market afterwards. I verified root successfully, loaded busybox and terminal emulator via the marketplace.
RECOVERY: I update.zip installed a CWM recovery successfully. The xda member fun_ has this great post for RK3066 devices. Follow the links to CWM-based Recovery images for RK3066 devices and download the UG007_CWM.zip for Ugoos UG007. Aterwards just rename to update.zip and push to /sdcard and install.
During this whole process I used a USB keyboard with small touch pad for *mouse*. The CWM recovery only works with keyboard, but I could have used only a USB mouse on drivers and root setup, because the device has an onscreen keyboard.
Overall the device works great. There are some cons:
First: There appears to be no microphone nor record ability with the stock ROM. I tried lots of bluetooth headsets which play music and movies fine but the microphones failed. I ordered and will try an external USB soundcard dongle later.
Second: There is a security problem because the screen never locks nor sleeps, with one random exception (clicking on items in notifications). The workaround for security is a wonderful application "Smart Lock Free" and its widget to lock/unlock all with one click.
Nothing else really bothers me, so I must say this device is an exciting Android Stick Computer.
Model: rk30sdk
Android version: 4.1.1
Kernel version: 3.0.8+ [email protected] #169 SMP PREEMPT Thu Dec 20 18:07:08 CST 2012
Build number: RK30_ANDROID4.1.1-SDK-v1.00.1015 rk30sdk-eng4.1.1 JRO03H eng.ant.20121220.180742 test-keys
UPDATE ONE: The device is available on Amazon and others. Search for "UG007 ii", verify 2 microUSB ports, verify Android 4.1.1, verify looks same as below:
Afunta(tm) Bluetooth Ug007 Mini Pc Android 4.1 Google Tv Dongle Dual Core Cortex A9 Wifi 1080p RAM 1gb+rom 8gb+3d (2 Micro USB Slots)
Price $56.99 USD from afunta-mall
or
New Version Bluetooth Ug007 II Mini PC Android 4.1.1 Google TV Dongle Dual Core Rockchip 3066 Cortex A9 Wifi 1080p RAM 1GB+ROM 8GB
Price $62.48 USD from geekbuying.com
The above are just two vendor examples, looks exactly like mine. There are many other good vendors. The geekbuying.com guys are interesting because on their website they released a 4.2.2 ROM for this stick. There are also many bad vendors and clones which look different and are not UG007 ii. Your mileage may vary. Good luck.
UPDATE TWO: I have now tested three USB sound cards. The only working USB soundcard, that survives a reboot still working, is the Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS. With this USB soundcard the audio input (microphone) and output (speakers) work with the UG007 ii. See further information in next post.
I added the USB sound card. Now I am able to use a microphone on the UG007 ii. Great.
The (semi) working device is Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS The microphone input works, audio output not.
UPDATE: Finally got audio input and output working with this device. Basically, plug and play is not always a reliable method. Instead reboot with device connected and audio in & out works.
I also got another fancy USB sound card from Syba that does not work for input nor output. This one finally worked. This one did **not** work for me. I did little troubleshooting.
UPDATE: After further testing I found this device also works, but sometimes crashes on plug and play. When I reboot with device connected the audio in & out works, and subsequent plug and play works. Typical problems are caused by plug and play device with recorder application open or music player open, or switching devices with plug and play without rebooting.
So, with a microphone connected on the first, I decided to try VOIP programs again. After installing Groove IP, same as before it crashed when launched. However, Talkatone works. It is complicated to get it working. Here is what I did:
Installed Talkatone, In the settings it gives under the *Phone* tab, I selected Call Settings. I changed Start Call on "normal". It was set to "BlueTooth (when available)", but I could never get the microphone working, listening with bluetooth headset and microphone input to the USB sound card. Bluetooth was wierd because I was able to hear on the headset with setting "Bluetooth (when available)" but neither the bluetooth nor USB sound card microphone input worked. Bluetooth devices never show in the Android Sound settings.
Under Android Settings, Sound, Sound Devices Manager. With the above USB sound card connected the options are:
Talkatone working configuration:
Sound input devices: USB PnP Sound Device (***selected)
Sound output devices:
ROCKCHIP HDMI (***selected)
USB PnP Sound Device (not selected)
Note: I switched my audio OUT setting to HDMI and connected a speaker to the back of my HDMI monitor. You, like me, are probably now saying WTF. Yes? While the microphone is working on USB PnP Sound Device it seems the audio output does not work on either of my USB sound cards. However, with Talkatone setup Start Call on normal, the HDMI audio output works with the microphone input on USB PnP Sound Device. LOL
UPDATE: If you reboot with USB sound card connected you can use USB PnP Sound Device output. But, plug-n-play may kill your output until reboot with connected.
I run tests using Music player for audio output, and the Sound Recorder for input. The Sound Recorder application can be *found* on the stick computer in the /system/app folder. It is bundled with the device but I was unable to find a launch icon. Information on Sound Recorder is Version 4.1.1-eng.ant.20121212.085830 Once run, I can subsequently find & run again using search on "SoundRecorder". Also, in the Play market the Sound Recorder Shortcut by Kayan Nurav gives an icon as a fix to launch Sound Recorder.
Using these configurations I can successfully make Talkatone voice calls with the UG007 ii. My voice quality depends on microphone sensitivity. The sound out via HDMI to speakers sounds perfect.
There are still some annoyances. After reboot or re-plugging the USB sound card: if you want Rockchip HDMI output the Android settings need to be fixed (as shown above). I frequently test sound output using the music player and test input with sound recorder because of frequent sound input and/or output failures requiring me to reboot. Definitely a work in progress, yet interesting.
UPDATE: Finally got audio input and output working with these devices. Basically, plug and play is not a good method. Instead reboot with device connected and audio in & out works. I tested a third USB sound card where audio input/microphone does *not* ever work. If you find some, please post further examples of working USB soundcards in this thread.
quick question
i want to use the stick computer as web/ftp server so i only need it on and there is no need to a TV except for the first time i use+configure
does the stick turn on and boot just by plugging the power ??
mf_ said:
quick question
i want to use the stick computer as web/ftp server so i only need it on and there is no need to a TV except for the first time i use+configure
does the stick turn on and boot just by plugging the power ??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it does nothing with power plugged only. I must first plug HDMI and then power to get boot.
Bob Smith42 said:
No, it does nothing with power plugged only. I must first plug HDMI and then power to get boot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you please do me a favor (im asking because not connecting to tv avoids extra electricity costs, since android can be controlled trough airdroid)
connecting the HDMI cable only to ug007ii and leave the other side hanging loose without connecting to TV
does it boot ??
mf_ said:
can you please do me a favor (im asking because not connecting to tv avoids extra electricity costs, since android can be controlled trough airdroid)
connecting the HDMI cable only to ug007ii and leave the other side hanging loose without connecting to TV
does it boot ??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. It does not power up when connected only to cable. But, if you turn off monitor and connect cable it does boot.
There is an old hack of putting resisters on DB15 video connectors and plugging into laptop external video ports. What this did was enable new screen resolutions on 1st generation netbook computers. It was something if done wrong could also ruin your video card. LOL
Thinking along the same lines there us surely some way to fake the HDMI monitor connection by hacking an HDMI plug.
Cant Wait
I just got the exact same unit you did I was expecting the UG007 cant wait to hook it up in the AM Thanks for all your postings it will be a great guideline for me.
Thanks Again
Thx, OP, for this thread~! It came in really handy after I purchased the UG007II and I was looking for a way to root and install CWM. I got this for mom for Mother's Day and she really loves it for watching Netflix shows & movies.
CWM for Official UGOOS 4.2.2 firmware
Has anyone else upgraded to the latest official 4.2.2 firmware? I have and it's very good. Smoother, faster, and everything still works, of course. I also got it rooted using the original method for the original Android 4.1.1 firmware.
But I'm having issues with CWM. I installed the original UG007 CWM through the Rockchip flash tool (as opposed to the update.zip method b/c it doesn't work with 4.2.2 anymore) but I can't actually create any Nandroids inside CWM. Things aren't being mounted & recognized correctly.
Does anyone know of any updated CWM recovery for 4.2.2?
i try everithing and cant connect to my pc de UG007 II
Tried the USB audio out to a couple of external DACs and both have pops and clicks. It appears like the Shield up samples everything to the max capability of the DAC up to 192k. This causes random unlocking of the signal to the DAC causing the pops and clicks. It also prevents the transmission of bit perfect audio to the DAC.
Does anybody know of a way to switch off up sampling in the Shield so that it plays the native sampling rate of the source? Is there some way of "conning" the Shield during the USB handshake?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
themystical said:
Tried the USB audio out to a couple of external DACs and both have pops and clicks. It appears like the Shield up samples everything to the max capability of the DAC up to 192k. This causes random unlocking of the signal to the DAC causing the pops and clicks. It also prevents the transmission of bit perfect audio to the DAC.
Does anybody know of a way to switch off up sampling in the Shield so that it plays the native sampling rate of the source? Is there some way of "conning" the Shield during the USB handshake?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Response from Nvidia customer service:
We're sorry, unfortunately there is no option for Manual control upsampling or downsampling with External Digital to Analog Converter on Shield Android TV.
Any help appreciated!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for posting this. I have similar issues using a NAD D3020 amp as my DAC. If there's constant audio it's fine, but whenever the SHIELD idles for a bit the next sound (e.g. scrolling through menus) is a loud crackle/pop.
This is sorted now with the 3.0 update. It is now possible to select 192k or 44.1k audio output through settings.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Hi all,
I just saw this thread about USB DAC. My problem is slightly different.
Indeed, FW 3.0 just improved USB DAC compatibility within Android. Still, a new problem arises within Kodi.
With 2.1 FW, I could use my Rega DAC (it is passthrough compatible). AC3 and DTS were sent to my AV receiver perfectly (passthrough working under Kodi).
With 3.0, I can no longer use my Rega DAC under Kodi. Passthrough is not functional within Kodi. I have ugly white/pink noise instead.
So now I'm left with no possibility to let my DAC passthrough the audio to my receiver. This is really boring since my receiver has no USB in, and requires my DAC to passthrough via optical cable.
Good news is improved compatibility under Android system : my other high-end DAC now works with 3.0 (impossible under 2.1) although it is not passthrough compatible.
So my question : what's wrong with the 3.0 update related to USB device or audio passthrough within Kodi ?
Anyone with a hint or solution ? Thanks by advance.
AngelHeart said:
Hi all,
I just saw this thread about USB DAC. My problem is slightly different.
Indeed, FW 3.0 just improved USB DAC compatibility within Android. Still, a new problem arises within Kodi.
With 2.1 FW, I could use my Rega DAC (it is passthrough compatible). AC3 and DTS were sent to my AV receiver perfectly (passthrough working under Kodi).
With 3.0, I can no longer use my Rega DAC under Kodi. Passthrough is not functional within Kodi. I have ugly white/pink noise instead.
So now I'm left with no possibility to let my DAC passthrough the audio to my receiver. This is really boring since my receiver has no USB in, and requires my DAC to passthrough via optical cable.
Good news is improved compatibility under Android system : my other high-end DAC now works with 3.0 (impossible under 2.1) although it is not passthrough compatible.
So my question : what's wrong with the 3.0 update related to USB device or audio passthrough within Kodi ?
Anyone with a hint or solution ? Thanks by advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First post here, I had a related issue where I had to modify audio_policy.conf in order to get DTS to passthrough to receiver via the TV's optical connection (Shield to TV to Receiver). That problem was related to the TV's EDID not reporting DTS capability, even though it technically works (probably omitted due to licensing fees). Anyway, in \system\etc\audio_policy.conf, there was also a setting for USB passthrough. You may be able to manually enter the formats to passthrough instead of relying on "dynamic", which relies on polling the device what it supports. (requires root access to edit this).
Thanks for advice.
I'll check this and come back after rooting my SATV
settings
Hi,
I've not been able to root my device, since root is difficult to perform with 500gb version added to 4K TV (TWRP not compatible).
Still, seems like USB passthrough is set to "2". Apparently "0" means disabled whereas "1" is activated (correct me if I'm wrong)
So, do I have no choice except from root ? If you have any clue about this, could you please keep me in the know ?
Thanks in advance,
Pops and clicks
I just put in a Turtle Beach Audio Advantage Micro II USB Analog & Digital Audio Adapter. Works just fine like people are saying but when no audio is going on the led on the Micro II goes off. Then when there is anything, even system sounds it kicks on the LED turns on and my speakers pop loud. Has anyone figured a fix or is this just USB audio. And is an HDMI audio puller a better solution for simple stereo 2.1 setup? Or does that pop too?
OK. Think i found a temp fix. When using USB DAC direct to an analog source it kept popping because it was sending live signal to hot amp every time USB DAC would come back from standby. SO how to keep DAC from sleeping when no sound was live, I installed VirtualHere USB Server From the TV Play store. Checked always as this was only USB device i had plugged in. Then went to setting and only checked Start On Boot. Since then after full restart DAC stays on, LED stays lit and sound is always on. No more pops.
Hello y'all,
I recently discovered by accident that when I tried plugging in my PS4 controller through the USB-C port the phone was showing headphones icon in the status bar. And sure enough, the audio wasn't coming from the phone. So can anyone test this out since I don't have any USB-C headphones, but I always wanted them.
Thanks to anyone participating in this test.
Write your results here.
Audio through USB-C works at least since Android 8.1. I've USB-C mini DAC (Hidizs Sonata HD) and works perfectly. Also I tested Nobsound NS-10g USB input via USB host adapter and also works. So, isn't a new feature of 9.0 update, if you are thinking so.
I've been using fulla schiit 2, usb audio works on 8.1
xsam123 said:
Audio through USB-C works at least since Android 8.1. I've USB-C mini DAC (Hidizs Sonata HD) and works perfectly. Also I tested Nobsound NS-10g USB input via USB host adapter and also works. So, isn't a new feature of 9.0 update, if you are thinking so.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually yes, I was thinking it's new because when I tried my friends USB C headphones it didn't respond.
But thank you for clarifying me! Your response is appreciated.
xsam123 said:
Audio through USB-C works at least since Android 8.1. I've USB-C mini DAC (Hidizs Sonata HD) and works perfectly. Also I tested Nobsound NS-10g USB input via USB host adapter and also works. So, isn't a new feature of 9.0 update, if you are thinking so.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does your Hidizs Sonata work also with Android Pie? I've just got Sonata II and it works only if I connect it within one minute after reboot. After that the phone ignores it and acts like nothing has been connected (but the phone is powering the dongle as I see increased draw in logcat and hear a very faint click in the headphones). So if I want to listen via Sonata, I must connect it first and reboot the phone, then it works perfectly. I tried all the available firmwares for Sonata, it does the same with all of them. With the PC or Huawei phone it works whenever I connect the dongle, so it most probably isn't faulty USB DAC, but rather something in the phone. Also I'm missing the option "Audio source" in the USB options in the phone's settings completely, if it makes any difference/sense.
_mysiak_ said:
Does your Hidizs Sonata work also with Android Pie? I've just got Sonata II and it works only if I connect it within one minute after reboot. After that the phone ignores it and acts like nothing has been connected (but the phone is powering the dongle as I see increased draw in logcat and hear a very faint click in the headphones). So if I want to listen via Sonata, I must connect it first and reboot the phone, then it works perfectly. I tried all the available firmwares for Sonata, it does the same with all of them. With the PC or Huawei phone it works whenever I connect the dongle, so it most probably isn't faulty USB DAC, but rather something in the phone. Also I'm missing the option "Audio source" in the USB options in the phone's settings completely, if it makes any difference/sense.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, my unit works perfectly with Android Pie, stock and custom ROM. What build are you using? Maybe something is corrupt
Enviado desde mi Mi A1 mediante Tapatalk
xsam123 said:
Yes, my unit works perfectly with Android Pie, stock and custom ROM. What build are you using? Maybe something is corrupt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no stock Android Pie, tried the adapter with February patch. Unfortunately adapter just stopped working with all of my devices (got really hot and then died completely), so can't verify with March update.
I'm going to visit an Apple store and try their USB-C - 3.5mm adapter, it is being said to be of a very high quality and is just 10USD/EUR and available locally, so I don't have to wait more than a month for delivery of another Hidizs from China.
Apple dongle behaves the same. Working when connected within ~1 minute after reboot, won't work on later (re)connection. I tried a different kernel to no avail. Would love to know why is it happening.
Edit: it happens that I'm forgetful, see explanation below
Oh my.. I'm stupid guys, I totally forgot that I configured recommended workaround "disable USB host" for 70000.USB wakelock couple of months ago. It was running one minute after boot via Tasker, no wonders I was experiencing this. Dongle works completely fine now (except of volume buttons on the Apple DAC). Sorry for stupid confusion.