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My HD2 finally developed the dreaded unresponsive touchscreen problem this week after just over 2 years use and as I'm now out-of-warranty I've decided to replace the lcd/digitizer myself.
Searching XDA and youTube for inspiration threw up a lot of scattered information, some useful and a lot more that was wrong and misleading so i'd like to establish a thread here with all the right answers provided, in detail.
This should also be of interest to those with dropped phones and smashed screens.
So far I've discovered:
- my unresponsive touchscreen is a hardware (not software) issue; caused by damage to the digitizer cable accumulated over time by repeated presses of the power button, to which it is physically adjacent.
- if the cable is only slightly damaged, a temporary fix might be achieved by pressing on the power button until the touchscreen starts responding again and then avoiding pressing the power button thereafter. ie. letting the phone timeout to sleep automatically and waking the phone up by pressing one of the other buttons rather than the power button.
- a permanent fix involves replacing the digitizer which requires an almost complete teardown of the phone. I'm open to any other suggestions from posters for say, repairing the cable although I haven't seen any as yet.
- although only the digitizer needs replacing, it's easier (albeit slightly more expensive) to replace the LCD and digitizer as a unit, which is the same part whatever version of HD2 you have.
- The disassembly procedure is fiddly with a lot of easily-breakable cables and connectors.
I've already acquired the LCD/ digitizer (part no. 60H00300-00P) from ebay, for £22.99 shipped, which was a pretty good deal as the standard UK price seems to be ~£38. The cheapest I found for the digitizer only (without LCD) in the UK was 11.95 shipped. The difference in price wasn't worth the extra installation hassle for me.
other required items are: a T5 torx screwdriver, a small jeweller's screwdriver set, tweezers, a guitar pick, an old credit card or similar, superglue (or double-sided adhesive tape) and thin (2.5mm?) single-side adhesive tape. also reading glasses or a magnifier might be handy depending on the quality of your close vision (i'm 54 so mine lacks somewhat).
This is by far the best instructional video I have found to date:
http://mperlitsch.hintergrundbild.com/htc_hd2.htm#Zerlegeanleitung
.. unfortunately its in German, which mostly isn't a problem as you can see what he is doing, except at the end as he describes (at length, rather than showing) the final step of superglueing the new LCD/ digitizer into the phone chassis, where i thought I might have missed some important details. Perhaps any German-speaking posters could fill us in on that procedure?
The above website also accompanies the video with some text descriptions of the various stages of disassembly which I will get google- translated into English.
There is another useful-looking instructional site here (hi-res pics, no video):
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+HTC+HD2+PB81120+Screen/5651/1
Finally there are also some leaked official HTC breakdown videos on youTube @720p here:
disassembly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-jnUKufC4&feature=player_embedded
reassembly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
I'll keep the thread updated as I go and I would welcome any help or tips from anybody that has already been down this road.
My aim is to develop a foolproof instructional guide that almost anybody can follow to extend the life of this great phone.
I've read that german thread as well and I'd agree that it does seem to be a very good guide, to read it in english open the page in chrome (or search for the thread in google) and let google translate it,
Step 32 for example translates to Step 32: Now as in step 31 and proceed to the bottom of using each 1 drop of superglue and moisten with clothespins along with the 30-minute fix waiting / drying time. In the bottom right where the flex board stops at the edge of the touchscreen and LCD connector watch film. There, only the metal bridge very carefully and very economical with wet glue. Important: Use sparingly only at the marked positions superglue! Never close the buttons at the bottom, even if the lure still should be as large. It is held there by our HTC special adhesive film wonderfully.
HypoTurtle said:
I've read that german thread as well and I'd agree Step 32: Now as in step 31 and proceed to the bottom of using each 1 drop of superglue and moisten with clothespins along with the 30-minute fix waiting / drying time. In the bottom right where the flex board stops at the edge of the touchscreen and LCD connector watch film. There, only the metal bridge very carefully and very economical with wet glue. Important: Use sparingly only at the marked positions superglue! Never close the buttons at the bottom, even if the lure still should be as large. It is held there by our HTC special adhesive film wonderfully.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I'll have a look and see where his "marked positions" are. i already figured from the video that he was stressing about the buttons.
As this is the only part that I'm nervous about, I'd be interested in anybody else's experience of sticking the new lcd/ digitizer into the chassis. what did you use? and how did it go?
Presumably HTC didn't use superglue at the factory. Has anybody tried double-sided adhesive tape for this?
EDIT: I've just ordered some cheap generic double-sided tape on ebay, advertised as "New Clear Strong Permanent Double Sided Self Adhesive Craft Packaging Tape".
I'm still waiting for my LCD/ digitizer part to arrive and in the meantime bought another HD2, with a smashed screen, to practice disassembly on.
my own HD2 is currently behaving itself as long as I don't forget not to touch the power button.
i've now received my digitizer/ lcd part + (noname) double-sided tape in the post.
i've also found another XDA thread speaking in more detail about the step of fixing the lcd/ digitizer back into the middle chassis here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1341927
there is some debate in that thread over whether tape might be a better bet than superglue. the tape they recommend is 3M brand 2mm double-sided, for which I have sourced a supplier on eBay (item #281023942070 -- "3M 2mm x 50m Adhesive Tape Roll for iPod iPhone iPad - Transparent") for £5.99. I'm going to get a roll of that but may still opt for the superglue method ... undecided.
Mine was the same,
After seeing some videos I decided to buy a digitizer from ebay, it looked really easy on the videos. I bought one for 25€ , the ribbon cable looked strange but I decided to go on. After finishing everything the digitizer doesn't respond. I want to test the digitizer alone, any idea? I've access to a complete electronic lab, so there's no problem to use an oscilloscope or whatever.
Thanks in advance
Lbalddy said:
Mine was the same,
After seeing some videos I decided to buy a digitizer from ebay, it looked really easy on the videos. I bought one for 25€ , the ribbon cable looked strange but I decided to go on. After finishing everything the digitizer doesn't respond. I want to test the digitizer alone, any idea? I've access to a complete electronic lab, so there's no problem to use an oscilloscope or whatever.
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sounds like you might have bought the wrong digitizer. You know there are 2 types, soldered and solderless (plug-in) which have different connectors?
Any pics? How did the disassembly go otherwise?
in the german video i posted, he shows how to reconnect the ribbon cables and test the lcd/ digitizer before glueing it in and reassembling the phone.
Hi All
Picked up a Nexus 4 a few days ago and only just noticed (as result of a call) that the proximity sensor is reporting that its "blocked" at all times, so the phone things its against my head. I can workaround this by using the "Power button to hang Up" option but at present cannot access any in call features.
When I look under good light the sensor, there are 2 areas so not sure which is the sensor, I can see what looks like a bubble under both. if you imagine what an air pocket looks like under a screen protector thats what it looks like but its behind the glass, perfectly centred. I guess its possible that something has broken here as a result of the drop, the top left corner was the point of impact, does that seem likely?
I got the phone cheap as it had a broke screen so have a new one coming. Its the full screen, glass and digitizer. Does anyone know of the sensor is part of the screen or does it sit behind and then I could be really screwed!
Ta
bert682 said:
Hi All
Picked up a Nexus 4 a few days ago and only just noticed (as result of a call) that the proximity sensor is reporting that its "blocked" at all times, so the phone things its against my head. I can workaround this by using the "Power button to hang Up" option but at present cannot access any in call features.
When I look under good light the sensor, there are 2 areas so not sure which is the sensor, I can see what looks like a bubble under both. if you imagine what an air pocket looks like under a screen protector thats what it looks like but its behind the glass, perfectly centred. I guess its possible that something has broken here as a result of the drop, the top left corner was the point of impact, does that seem likely?
I got the phone cheap as it had a broke screen so have a new one coming. Its the full screen, glass and digitizer. Does anyone know of the sensor is part of the screen or does it sit behind and then I could be really screwed!
Ta
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I did a little more reading and it seems that a gorilla has changed the screen on this phone in the past and he / she has used compound to stick the screen down and some of it has gone around the sensor and the resulting press down on the screen has created a few air pockets.
Looking less forward to changing the screen now as no doubt with my luck the "technician" will have used some crazy heat resistant glue!
Also....missing the speaker grille....funny how you only notice things after you have bought them!
Search for proximity sensor fix after screen replacement here on xda. I've found out that if you switch sides of the little rubber /plastic cover that covers the proximity sensor, your problem will be solved. And the light sensor will work with no problems as well.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Sp_Ark said:
Search for proximity sensor fix after screen replacement here on xda. I've found out that if you switch sides of the little rubber /plastic cover that covers the proximity sensor, your problem will be solved. And the light sensor will work with no problems as well.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really?
From reading the thing to do is either make the height of the bushing a little larger, height wise. Or, to increase the diameter of the holes.
I like your fix the best though....no messing about, just rotate.
Will give it a go, thanks!
It will work for sure, I posted this fix on a YouTube screen replacement guide of octopus glues I think and its confirmed to work from a lot of people. Then if you use a custom rom go to brightness settings while having auto brightness enabled and try changing light sources from dark to very bright places to see the instant lux values you get. If you are not satisfied with the result try custom auto brightness values.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
bert682 said:
Really?
From reading the thing to do is either make the height of the bushing a little larger, height wise. Or, to increase the diameter of the holes.
I like your fix the best though....no messing about, just rotate.
Will give it a go, thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, I discovered this "fix" in a random youtube comment (was that you @Sp_Ark?) just a few days ago, and it worked for me. Then I found a thread here that confirmed that this could be a solution (which could have saved me a week of frustration).
If there's actually something on the proximity sensor, then you might be screwed. Well, not really, or $10 from China. The module is a snap-in piece with connector ribbon that also has the headphone jack. The prox sensor is the smaller one on the right side (when looking at the screen).
Disassembly of the Nexus 4 is pretty simple compared to many other smartphones. You'll need a T5 TORX wrench/bit for the screws at the bottom, and a very small Phillips driver for all the screws in the inside. You'll also need a tool to split the 2 halves apart (your screen replacement might have come with tools). You can find a couple videos on youtube, as well as a detailed teardown (pics) at ifixit.com. If you have a hairdryer (or an actual heat gun) you can make the process easier by softening the glue with heat, but it's not absolutely necessary. Just go slowly and be careful when prying the halves apart so you don't flex it too much and break the glass back.
Which screen assembly did you get? You can get it where it's just the LCD and the digitizer, and you can also get it that has the bezel and speaker with it. When I replaced the screen on my N4, I got the whole deal with the bezel and speaker, since it meant less work and fewer things to screw up.
Planterz said:
Yep, I discovered this "fix" in a random youtube comment (was that you @Sp_Ark?) just a few days ago, and it worked for me. Then I found a thread here that confirmed that this could be a solution (which could have saved me a week of frustration).
If there's actually something on the proximity sensor, then you might be screwed. Well, not really, or $10 from China. The module is a snap-in piece with connector ribbon that also has the headphone jack. The prox sensor is the smaller one on the right side (when looking at the screen).
Disassembly of the Nexus 4 is pretty simple compared to many other smartphones. You'll need a T5 TORX wrench/bit for the screws at the bottom, and a very small Phillips driver for all the screws in the inside. You'll also need a tool to split the 2 halves apart (your screen replacement might have come with tools). You can find a couple videos on youtube, as well as a detailed teardown (pics) at ifixit.com. If you have a hairdryer (or an actual heat gun) you can make the process easier by softening the glue with heat, but it's not absolutely necessary. Just go slowly and be careful when prying the halves apart so you don't flex it too much and break the glass back.
Which screen assembly did you get? You can get it where it's just the LCD and the digitizer, and you can also get it that has the bezel and speaker with it. When I replaced the screen on my N4, I got the whole deal with the bezel and speaker, since it meant less work and fewer things to screw up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got a "kit" off eBay, [URL="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT so it appears to be the complete screen. Ive watched a few videos but from the pictures it looks like the screen comes with the metal backing so I suspect I dont need to remove the old screen from the casing, thoughts?
Im expecting this to be the screen, bezel, and metal backing so I need to do is connect in my motherboard and all the other components.
Am I off in thinking this?
That's the full part. The one you've posted is the type I usually go for, they're good quality so far.
bert682 said:
I got a "kit" off eBay, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144377215?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT so it appears to be the complete screen. Ive watched a few videos but from the pictures it looks like the screen comes with the metal backing so I suspect I dont need to remove the old screen from the casing, thoughts?
Im expecting this to be the screen, bezel, and metal backing so I need to do is connect in my motherboard and all the other components.
Am I off in thinking this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You made a wise choice, young padawan.
Yeah, that looks to be the entire front assembly, including the screen+digitizer, already installed in the bezel. Also includes the earpiece plus the speaker grill that you're missing. You'll have to swap over the guts, and that's about it. It's easiest to swap the power and volume rocker buttons first since it's a bit harder to get them where they go if you've got the logic board in the way. Just remember that the contact points need to make a ^ rather than a v when you're assembling it with the screen facing down. Tweezers are good to have, especially if they're very long and even better if they're curved. I also recommend doing this over a clean towel to avoid scratching the screen (there'll probably be a film over it too), and the fluffier the towel the better, to catch the tiny screws from flying and disappearing.
Honestly, getting the 2 halves apart is probably the hardest part. They make specialized tools for this, and often the sellers will include them, but it doesn't look like your purchase includes them (mine didn't either). Something plastic is the best choice, since you're less likely to cause cosmetic damage to the plastic (especially the bezel) if you slip (and you will slip). As I said before, GO SLOWLY. Work it apart a little bit at a time, alternate side to side, starting from the bottom. Eventually you'll be able to pull the 2 halves apart.
The battery will be stuck in pretty good and will need to be pried out. If I were you (and a week or so ago, I was you), I'd pop a new battery in while you're at it. At this point in the phone's life, it's probably had at least a few hundred cycles on the battery and has lost 10-20% of its original capacity. The other components shouldn't be nearly as hard to get out. Just pry in various points until the piece pops out. Do not force anything. Just work it out slowly. After you pop off the piece that covers the USB port, there's the board that has the port, and that can be slightly tricky to get out. Best way I found is to slip something small and flat (screwdriver?) into the port and push up and out, and the board should come out easily.
Thankfully, there's only 3 different screws used, and they're all easily differentiated from each other. There's the 2 T5 TORX that hold the halves together, the 2 very short screws with wide heads that hold the battery in place, and the rest that hold everything else are all identical to each other.
It looks like on your assembly, it comes with its own adhesives. Everywhere there's a blue film, pull it off and there'll be adhesive underneath. I'd recommend leaving the film on over the part where the sensor/headphone jack module goes until you're sure you can stick it in place with the proximity sensor not acting wonky. Download an app (I used Phone Tester) that can read the prox sensor. FYI, as long as everything is in place, and you've attached the battery, you can boot the phone without replacing the back cover, and test the sensor (just depress the center bit of the power button board). You don't need to screw everything in, but you should at least screw and tighten down the few that surround the sensor area. Once you've got it reading properly (best of luck), it's time to put all back together.
You should familiarize yourself with the teardown/reassembly guides out there. Go to ifixit.com and have everything ready to look at. This is the video that I used to guide me, and I watched it through a few times before I attempted it myself. You should be just fine with your phone after familiarizing yourself, but if you have any specific problems or questions, feel free to ask, and I'm all too happy to help.
Planterz said:
You made a wise choice, young padawan.
Yeah, that looks to be the entire front assembly, including the screen+digitizer, already installed in the bezel. Also includes the earpiece plus the speaker grill that you're missing. You'll have to swap over the guts, and that's about it. It's easiest to swap the power and volume rocker buttons first since it's a bit harder to get them where they go if you've got the logic board in the way. Just remember that the contact points need to make a ^ rather than a v when you're assembling it with the screen facing down. Tweezers are good to have, especially if they're very long and even better if they're curved. I also recommend doing this over a clean towel to avoid scratching the screen (there'll probably be a film over it too), and the fluffier the towel the better, to catch the tiny screws from flying and disappearing.
Honestly, getting the 2 halves apart is probably the hardest part. They make specialized tools for this, and often the sellers will include them, but it doesn't look like your purchase includes them (mine didn't either). Something plastic is the best choice, since you're less likely to cause cosmetic damage to the plastic (especially the bezel) if you slip (and you will slip). As I said before, GO SLOWLY. Work it apart a little bit at a time, alternate side to side, starting from the bottom. Eventually you'll be able to pull the 2 halves apart.
The battery will be stuck in pretty good and will need to be pried out. If I were you (and a week or so ago, I was you, I'd pop a new battery in while you're at it. At this point in the phone's life, it's probably had at least a few hundred cycles on the battery and has lost 10-20% of its original capacity. The other comments shouldn't be nearly as hard to get out. Just pry in various points until the piece pops out. Do not force anything. Just work it out slowly. After you pop off the piece that covers the USB port, there's the board that has the port, and that can be slightly tricky to get out. Best way I found is to slip something small and flat (screwdriver?) into the port and push up and out, and the board should come out easily.
Thankfully, there's only 3 different screws used, and they're all easily differentiated from each other. There's the 2 T5 TORX that hold the halves together, the 2 very short screws with wide heads that hold the battery in place, and the rest that hold everything else are all identical to each other.
It looks like on your assembly, it comes with its own adhesives. Everywhere there's a blue film, pull it off and there'll be adhesive underneath. I'd recommend leaving the film on over the part where the sensor/headphone jack module goes until you're sure you can stick it in place with the proximity sensor not acting wonky. Download an app (I used Phone Tester) that can read the prox sensor. FYI, as long as everything is in place, and you've attached the battery, you can boot the phone without replacing the back cover, and test the sensor (just depress the center bit of the power button board). You don't need to screw everything in, but you should at least screw and tighten down the few that surround the sensor area. Once you've got it reading properly (best of luck), it's time to put all back together.
You should familiarize yourself with the teardown/reassembly guides out there. Go to ifixit.com and have everything ready to look at. This is the video[/i] that I used to guide me, and I watched it through a few times before I attempted it myself. You should be just fine with your phone after familiarizing yourself, but if you have any specific problems or questions, feel free to ask, and I'm all too happy to help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, I saw some cheaper screens but that one notes that its LG compliant etc. I bought a set of tools separately so will have all the stuff needed. Didnt think about the battery, will order one as it does make sense!
Thanks for the info, will update as I go.
If you want to have a working battery like it used to be before removing it, you have to be very patient and extra careful while trying to remove it. Use some heat for the glue and try with something very thin like a nylon guitar pick. In anyway don't bent the battery and don't start from top. It will be easier to first remove the mother board. Iv already destroyed 4 5 batteries while trying to remove them. Sorry for my English, I hope you understand.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Sp_Ark said:
If you want to have a working battery like it used to be before removing it, you have to be very patient and extra careful while trying to remove it. Use some heat for the glue and try with something very thin like a nylon guitar pick. In anyway don't bent the battery and don't start from top. It will be easier to first remove the mother board. Iv already destroyed 4 5 batteries while trying to remove them. Sorry for my English, I hope you understand.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea was extra careful, used a little heat. Someone has definately replaced the screen on the phone before but seems to have been careful enough as no screws missing etc, except the lost the little speaker grille
New screen in and working well. The proximity sensor seems to be working but it reports all or nothing rather than varied. Is this correct?
bert682 said:
Yea was extra careful, used a little heat. Someone has definately replaced the screen on the phone before but seems to have been careful enough as no screws missing etc, except the lost the little speaker grille
New screen in and working well. The proximity sensor seems to be working but it reports all or nothing rather than varied. Is this correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah this is normal.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
bert682 said:
New screen in and working well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! See, it wasn't too bad, was it? Ifixit gives the N4 a 7/10 for repairability, and that's pretty high for them. After replacing my N4 screen, friend/coworker asked if I could do the same for his HTC One M7 with a completely shattered, yet functional digitizer. I said "HEEEEEEEEEEELL NO!"
Planterz said:
Awesome! See, it wasn't too bad, was it? Ifixit gives the N4 a 7/10 for repairability, and that's pretty high for them. After replacing my N4 screen, friend/coworker asked if I could do the same for his HTC One M7 with a completely shattered, yet functional digitizer. I said "HEEEEEEEEEEELL NO!"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, not with the correct tools. I will admit had I not bought the plastic tools, tweezers etc I may have struggled.
The battery was my main concern, its really stuck down, even though this had been replaced before and likely a less tacky glue used it was still tough. Had to use some heat to soften it and the "battery cover" has seen better days. Next thing to replace is that, just for piece of mind.
All in all, pretty nice experience, the phone seems more modular that other phones I have taken apart which is nice.
just found a very easy way to replace the whole display in just 3 minutes by accessing it from the front side..
i am not yet allowed to post the link, but if you google this
IMPEXTROM CAMBIAR TROCAR DISPLAY HTC HD2
you will see the 3 minutes video
seems possible as there are 19 positive and just one negative vote on this video..
(my display was broken, but have worked for a year or so.
now it is frozen/ unresponsive and i have purchased a full display.)
but it seems too easy to be true ...
any hints?
thanx &cheers
That been set up for the video as you can see it been off before & the chassis the lcd is bonded to is clean of all bonding tape :-/
Also original has signal interference tape runing down sides across all 3 layers.
also if you heat the front first thing to seperate is the digi from LCD as the lcd to mid chassis is a strong bond.
Best way is popping them out of rear cover, fitting a pre built lcd/digitizer is not hard, just use quality adhesive to hold lcd to centre chassis & buy pre cut black foam tape for the top & bottom digi glass edges or rebuild is next to pointless without this done well.
I've done a good 30 odd HD2 screen & mainboards & no way I could do it to my standard via that video.
Hi Mister B - thanks a lot for your advice, i believe you are right!
but as i have never attempted to disassemble a mobile phone, is there a video tutorial how to do that properly for an absolute beginner?
as I need my phone functioning tomorrow, i'm considering to try it in the morning.
light2 said:
Hi Mister B - thanks a lot for your advice, i believe you are right!
but as i have never attempted to disassemble a mobile phone, is there a video tutorial how to do that properly for an absolute beginner?
as I need my phone functioning tomorrow, i'm considering to try it in the morning.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if Mister B will reply in time, there is a good thread here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1566179 with a video in post 2 else google hd2 disassembly youtube perhaps
Hi Robbie P,
Thanks a lot for the link!
Now it seems I will have to postpone this operation for a day or so, until i learn:
1) What time I would need (seems about 2h for a beginner)
2) What money I would need - as I have to buy these tools- what would be a price... i guess 10-15 euros?
(BTW Finally I guess that people who published aforementioned 3.5-minutes tutorial did so not to help us, but to make us damage our smartphones, so their services would then earn more, repairing it?
As I see no other explanation...Now found another such a scam video -
just google " HTC HD2 repair, disassembly manual ")
Cheers
Have a good read of link put up by robbie p
I done a few posts in it that worth looking at as you don't need remove the flexboard & volume button & antenna cables which saves a lot of possible accidents & hassle.
Most important thing is extreme care, volume button is damaged easily if pry of back badly or with screwdriver. antenna tabs are snapped off mainboard with poor handling while separating the layers.
It easy to do but first one is never perfect unless you really pay attention.
You don't need much tools, a basic kit from ebay for about 4euros will cover you along with things you probably got already such as hairdryer & razorblades etc.
Just buy good padded tapes to fit top & bottom of digitizer & strong tape to bond lcd to centre chassis
links to some parts in the HD2 wiki >
http://forum.xda-developers.com/wiki/HTC_HD2#Fixes.2C_Hints_.26_Tips
tools
Hi Mister B!
Thanks a lot for you precious advise.
Will try to do it myself, not in a hurry, as soon as I get 3 hours spare time - hoping it would be enough.
Then I will need to install some good Android instead of the original WM6.5- but that is for another topic
My Qs:
You don't need much tools, a basic kit from ebay for about 4euros will cover you
this is what I got with my display from Ebay: Is it enough?
1 pry tool ,1T5 screwdriver and 1 T6 screwdriver.
Just buy good padded tapes to fit top & bottom of digitizer
I also got this one from Ebay: is it good? if you paste the title below into ebay.co.uk it you will see more details:
2mm Double Sided Layer Adhesive Sticky Tape Sticker for Mobile Phone Glue LCD
& strong tape to bond lcd to centre chassis
Which width, and should it also be double-sided?
Cheers
For tape you want this >
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCDFIX-Fr...765?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e9ebb1595
I assume you have lcd & digitizer pre-built new !?
You would be better off with couple more decent pry tools, the green ones tend be better than the blue plastic stuff.
I use 2 pry tools on top of HD2 either side of speaker grill as makes back housing removal a few second job & leaves not one mark if done right.
Only other thing you may need is tweezers & cleaning buds for old glue.
top digitizer tape need be right or blocks sensor hole or looks shabby.
Don't force the old lcd off centre chassis as if gets bent then never fit back right, warming it up with hairdryer helps ease it off.
I always have a spare button board on hand too as makes it easy bench test the lcd/digitizer hook to mainboard side by side with battery held on mainboard pins & spare button board used to power on, also good as likely find old board breaks if gone brittle.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360542084387
tools I've got
Hi Mister B!
Thanks so much for your suggestions!
Yes, I've got the full display, and only the tools as on the photo.
My few Qs:
Only other thing you may need is tweezers & cleaning buds for old glue.
Could not find plastic tweezers, only metal ones... But those cotton sticks for ears i have
I could order the LCD tape, though it seems a long wait (7-10 days) for express delivery up here, so is there an alternative?
Thanks for a link to the button board! As I guess mine is damaged, for during last few months I had to press hard on the power button to get the phone responsive again. Then even this trick stopped working.
But also due to the longer waiting to get in from China - is there a way to test and learn if i need to replace it , before starting digging into my HD2?
Cheers
I would get the lcd digi top/bottom tape kit as what you got in big roll will be no good.
all else is good.
button board is handy as ribbons go brittle so can break plus you can use it to power up the device in a pre build test with lcd/digi & mainboard laid flat side by side & new ribbon plugged in to mainboard to power on. Most stuff makes it to uk pretty quickly, quicker order - quicker get it
Well, i will then order both items today, in hope it won't take too long to deliver up here (Belgrade, Serbia).
A video tutorial with all the tricks you have suggested would be the easiest way to follow, but it seems there's no such a video - yet.
Certainly, I'am either not sure whether will be able to film my own attempt.
Mister B - thanks so much! Following your suggestions, and the topic mentioned by Robbie P - I will likely manage to do the job properly!
Cheers
If have any question during rebuild post them here & I will respond as soon as see it.
Good luck ...
Thanks!
The other day I got the MM update and decided to force install the VR software to see if I could without the VR. It worked and i could browse the store, so it piqued my intreset.
Today I grabbed a spare Gear VR from a family member and took it home tonstart messing with it. I already knew a non Inovator Edition would not work with my GN4, but I wanted to see for myself why.
After looking at it and seeing how close it is to fitting, and confirming that the usb connector fits in and triggers the VR system to work, I started to look over the system closer to see how I could make it work and try to keep it as clean as possible without using my Dremmel.
Turns out its really easy to make it fit-ish (but enough).
Flip up the usb tab and there are 2x phillips screws. Remove them to pull the plate holding the usb connector in the clip. Slide off the plastic cover and youll see the usb has a thin ribbon attached that is long enough to pull out of the clip completely while still staying attached.
Now all you need is to take a flathead and on the bottom side of the clip, pry it out of the VR headset. Its held in with pegs on each end. The top peg is longer and connected to a spring, so you want to pull the bottom peg out first. Once the bottom one is out, you will need to pull with a little force to separate the top peg from the spring. Make sure to not damage the usb ribbon.
Now the same on the other side, but pry the top peg out first. Once the 2 pegs are out, youll have a long spring attached to the botttom of the clip that can be release by 2 more small phillips screws.
Now your done! Plug in the usb to your GN4 and place the smoaked plastic cover over your phone to hold it in place. I was able to watch the GoT intro VR video and browse the VR web before my batty died.
Obviously this will void any warranty and you risk damage to your VR.
Have fun!
Linked image to show that I actually did it.
http://imgur.com/nWjdc65
Sent from my SM-N910P using XDA Free mobile app
Not bad, but still too much effort for me. How ridiculous that Samsung didn't make the new Gear VR compatible with the Note 4! Makes you realise once again what a f... up business this is!
I will be using this thread to track my upgrade of the amplifier chip on the Intel Sofia based Joying units.
I chose the Pioneer PA2030A but apparently you can also use the TDA7850 chip.
To quote @kampfschachtel:
If your speakers are 4 ohm I would use the Pioneer as it has more power at 4 ohm, if you have 2 ohm speakers (like eg a lot of the BMW ones) then the TDA7850 is your choice. Be aware you get orginals as they are lot low quality clones on the market.
Joying radio and new Pioneer PA2030A chip
You can see in the back where the amp chip is anchored in the metal frame with two screws. The metal frame provides some cooling.
First step: take unit apart using the 2 screws - 1 on each side. At this step, say goodbye to your warranty!
1 more screws on the back and then you can take the top cover off
Behold! The internals!
Slide up the 2 USB cables from the frame and carefully disconnect the single USB cable from the board, the ribbon cable from the motherboard (which takes video and touch input to the screen) and then on the back, unscrew the GPS antenna from the frame. The other bundle of mic, radio antenna and USB cable just keep as is, as it's more work to untangle the wires.
NOTE! The ribbon cable uses a slide-lock to keep the cable in. Carefully pull the brown slider back and then remove the ribbon from the slot. Don't force it or you may damage it and will need to get a new ribbon.
Your can see the cables that were removed.
Next remove the following 4 screws and also the smaller 2 screws holding the amp chip to the frame
You can see the metal bracket that holds the amp chip falls off. Notice in the back, that the amp chip is held to the frame with some thermal paste. We'll need some more of that later when the chip is replaced.
Remove 2 more bolts that hold the motherboard - on the corners. 1 you can see where my screwdriver is resting.
Carefully pry out the board from the case.
You can see the chip we'll replace and the solders in the back that we'll have to work with.
NOTE: interesting marking on the board - PX3-MAIN. Other folks might know more on this, but did they re-use the main host board from their other stereos with minor modifications? Looks like it.
Next step - warm up the solder gun!
Time to go find my solder gun... dammit! Where did I put it? Haha!
You're going to want to pay attention to how high the chip sits on the board as the new one will have to be at a similar height to bolt back to the metal frame.
---removed---
Another side note... It looks like the SD card reader board has space for another SD card reader slot. If one wants dual SD card, maybe another soldering project down the line? The metal frame is also pre-cut for the second slot so it would be an easy project!
Making slow progress on removing the chip. A nice solder sucker would be great right now!
It looks easy, but that soldering looks the most difficult part of the job, how can you loose it with so many pins on the board, and i suppose you can do that by every chinese android radio?
Flemischguy said:
It looks easy, but that soldering looks the most difficult part of the job, how can you loose it with so many pins on the board, and i suppose you can do that by every chinese android radio?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You take your time Slowly heat up pins and you go around to each pin... over and over again.
bogdi1988 said:
You take your time Slowly heat up pins and you go around to each pin... over and over again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you use a classic soldering on electric? I think that i would use a soldering on gas, which is instantly hot and blow hot air over the pins (and faster)
Just a thought
So I got the chip soldered. Ran a quick test and got audio, but the channels are all over the place. Gotta trace all my solders to make sure I didn't mess up anything.
Flemischguy said:
Do you use a classic soldering on electric? I think that i would use a soldering on gas, which is instantly hot and blow hot air over the pins (and faster)
Just a thought
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, I did use a classic one.
I might have to re-do all solders.
Well, until I figure out my solder stuff... feedback on what I was able to test as it was.
Audio was significantly more powerful! Quite a difference! I'll spend some more time on this over the next couple days.
It is a tricky mod, but worth it!
I think my chip might be faulty so I got a new one coming in next week. I'll update this post next week when I get it