So... When I took pictures in the dark with the superior auto mode, the faces on the photos were yellow and the photos came out very dark, was really disappointed there. I tried the manual mode- there I could control the brightness so when the brightness is a little bit up (+1) the photos were much better. Also you can control the focus mode which improves the photos a little bit more (I like the multi autofocus). I played with the camera more and tried to change the color and brightness in the superior auto mode and the photos in my eyes came out perfect!!! I really liked the results.
Just click on the image, try this and tell me what you think:
Nice settings
tainka said:
So... When I took pictures in the dark with the superior auto mode, the faces on the photos were yellow and the photos came out very dark, was really disappointed there. I tried the manual mode- there I could control the brightness so when the brightness is a little bit up (+1) the photos were much better. Also you can control the focus mode which improves the photos a little bit more (I like the multi autofocus). I played with the camera more and tried to change the color and brightness in the superior auto mode and the photos in my eyes came out perfect!!! I really liked the results.
Just click on the image, try this and tell me what you think:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same settings as me,
In manual mode also you can change the expoaure to +0.3 or 0.6 to decrese faces noise
karrouma said:
Same settings as me,
In manual mode also you can change the expoaure to +0.3 or 0.6 to decrese faces noise
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know! Thanks!
Thanks!
I would also like to add that adjusting the lighting setting in manual mode with the exposure setting will give you far better pictures than in Superior Auto in low light condition.
that works for me ,thx
where do you find the exposure setting?
Is there panorama mode for camera?
hi guys, can you post some sample with and without these settings? actually i haven't phone...
Related
Got Vignette app last night, and I am not sure I am using it correctly. At main screen I can see auto focus borders, but they are too wide, so pictures look like they have fixed focus.
My question is: is it possible to reduce those auto focus borders somehow, to get focused item, and blurry edges for the things that are not in focus?
hibiskus said:
Got Vignette app last night, and I am not sure I am using it correctly. At main screen I can see auto focus borders, but they are too wide, so pictures look like they have fixed focus.
My question is: is it possible to reduce those auto focus borders somehow, to get focused item, and blurry edges for the things that are not in focus?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've Got the Vignette app and there are many options to be tried out.
The focus is very sensetive and i need to take more shots in bright light but so far the best results have been taking the picture via the on screen button and i know this is basic but give the lens a wipe as well.
I have a feeling there is a gerneral bluring with this app regardless to simulate particular film stocks.
To avoid this you can use the normal camera software and import those photos or any photo from your camera roll and apply the style you want then save over the file or save a copy.
I hope this helps.
hibiskus said:
Got Vignette app last night, and I am not sure I am using it correctly. At main screen I can see auto focus borders, but they are too wide, so pictures look like they have fixed focus.
My question is: is it possible to reduce those auto focus borders somehow, to get focused item, and blurry edges for the things that are not in focus?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean something like a macro mode?
You could try taking a picture with the 'Vignette' effect added onto it (The name of the effect itself is Vignette)
thanks for quick responses guyz, well I am not sure if it does focus actually. I mean physically lens tries to focus, but I dont think it actually focuses anything, so I thought maybe it is possible to reduce those focus borders to get focused item on image.
pngface, yes something like macro, but not that close
Anyway since vignette is saving images withough jpg compression, daylight images will have even better quality than now(and now they are very good)
Every picture I take looks great as I'm previewing it, but once I snap, the picture turns dull and darker. When I try HDR photos, the picture looks terrible-- muddy with no HDR processing it seems. All settings are set to "auto" except when I try HDR.
Under settings, the "save as" is sset to rich tone and is always greyed out-- even when I'm not in HDR mode? Not sure it is actually always saving "rich tone" or not.
Has anyone else seen this behavior?
starmanj said:
Every picture I take looks great as I'm previewing it, but once I snap, the picture turns dull and darker. When I try HDR photos, the picture looks terrible-- muddy with no HDR processing it seems. All settings are set to "auto" except when I try HDR.
Under settings, the "save as" is sset to rich tone and is always greyed out-- even when I'm not in HDR mode? Not sure it is actually always saving "rich tone" or not.
Has anyone else seen this behavior?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Have you taken off the plastic cover over the lens?
starmanj said:
Every picture I take looks great as I'm previewing it, but once I snap, the picture turns dull and darker. When I try HDR photos, the picture looks terrible-- muddy with no HDR processing it seems. All settings are set to "auto" except when I try HDR.
Under settings, the "save as" is sset to rich tone and is always greyed out-- even when I'm not in HDR mode? Not sure it is actually always saving "rich tone" or not.
Has anyone else seen this behavior?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haven't got mine yet so I can't try it. Sound bad ... did you remove the protection plastic from lens? LOL
When you start the camera brightness is set to 100% and goes back to normal auto in the gallery. Don't know about save as.
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Thats what I thought about brightness.
But HDR doesn't seem to work. appears to take one photo instead of three and then join them.
dondavis007 said:
When you start the camera brightness is set to 100% and goes back to normal auto in the gallery. Don't know about save as.
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Click to collapse
just wondering what you guys recommend for
(1) Screen Mode
Adaptive Mode (I turned this off... doesn't seem to make a diff?)
Dynamic
Standard (currently set on this)
Professional Photo
Movie
wanted to try Pro Photo and Movie.. but both make the screen yellow.. and reds washed out
(2) Auto Adjust Screen Tone
just wondering if you guys keep this on or off?
(3) Auto Brightness?
do you guys use this or manual adjustments?
(4) Power Savings - Use low power level for screen
1. Dynamic : because i love bright & vivid colors
2. Turned off : to preserve the bright & vividness of colors
3. Turned off : whenever i need i just slide the brighness slider.
4. Turned on : for most activity. Turned off while gaming
Standard, off, off, off. Brightness slider is set to about 10%.
Lux auto brightness for brightness control and photo display settings for correct colour reproduction.
Regards
SM-N900 cihazımdan Tapatalk 4 ile gönderildi
aegeuss said:
Lux auto brightness for brightness control and photo display settings for correct colour reproduction.
Regards
SM-N900 cihazımdan Tapatalk 4 ile gönderildi
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
photo display settings? is that an app?
or are you referring to pro photo mode?
wilflare said:
photo display settings? is that an app?
or are you referring to pro photo mode?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I refer to pro photo mode in screen mode. Please note that I have extensively used Andreilux Perseus kernel and I love the color correction as explained in this post: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=38497753&postcount=3
What I know from what I read from different posts and my own experience, the natural screen mode in Cyanogen mod and pro photo in new Samsung devices is very close to Perseus kernel improvements for correct color reproduction. I love "washed" colors
One more thing, the "reading mode" is very good too, since when you add up to 20 applications in this mode in the settings, it automatically reduces contrast when you run one of these apps. I use it especially for Dolphin browser to read papers etc. It turns back to normal when you close the app.
Last but not least; general brightness level of Note 3, especially under direct sun light, is much better than Note 2, but especially under low light I have to manually reduce the brightness not to disturb my eyes.
Regards.
I'm using the pro photo setting. For brightness settings I'm using the app Lux to fine tune autobrightness which has separate day and night profiles. The app can darken your screen below the 0% setting by applying a filter on the screen. Very useful for totally dark situations.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk 2
aegeuss said:
No, I refer to pro photo mode in screen mode. Please note that I have extensively used Andreilux Perseus kernel and I love the color correction as explained in this post: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=38497753&postcount=3
What I know from what I read from different posts and my own experience, the natural screen mode in Cyanogen mod and pro photo in new Samsung devices is very close to Perseus kernel improvements for correct color reproduction. I love "washed" colors
One more thing, the "reading mode" is very good too, since when you add up to 20 applications in this mode in the settings, it automatically reduces contrast when you run one of these apps. I use it especially for Dolphin browser to read papers etc. It turns back to normal when you close the app.
Last but not least; general brightness level of Note 3, especially under direct sun light, is much better than Note 2, but especially under low light I have to manually reduce the brightness not to disturb my eyes.
Regards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks! I will give Pro Photo a try and see how my eyes get used to it
shall give Lux a try too... I had it on my MBP but didn't really like it.. :X
hmm what about Auto Adjust Screen Mode?
aegeuss said:
No, I refer to pro photo mode in screen mode. Please note that I have extensively used Andreilux Perseus kernel and I love the color correction as explained in this post: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=38497753&postcount=3
What I know from what I read from different posts and my own experience, the natural screen mode in Cyanogen mod and pro photo in new Samsung devices is very close to Perseus kernel improvements for correct color reproduction. I love "washed" colors
One more thing, the "reading mode" is very good too, since when you add up to 20 applications in this mode in the settings, it automatically reduces contrast when you run one of these apps. I use it especially for Dolphin browser to read papers etc. It turns back to normal when you close the app.
Last but not least; general brightness level of Note 3, especially under direct sun light, is much better than Note 2, but especially under low light I have to manually reduce the brightness not to disturb my eyes.
Regards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been trying out Reading Mode... but it is making the screen really dim though.
Do you have power-savings mode ON?
No, I only use the power saving mod when I have around 15% battery left and I do not experience any dimnes in normal use.
Regards
SM-N900 cihazımdan Tapatalk 4 ile gönderildi
been using the Professional Photo mode. I must say I'm liking the colors much better
anyone tried out LUX?
hmm.. seems like Professional Photo mode.. causes a level of yellowing?
Adaptive at 50% Auto Brightness.
Unbelievable colours at an unbelievable power consumption rate, much better than my N2.
Just updated to 2.1.0.11, camera greatly improved.
**In previous rom camera used to take photo in high ISO, about 1000. So, there was so much grain. But new rom uses at best 450 ISO. Therefore image quality greatly improved.(sample images are not of same lighting condition, but you can easily differentiate the noise)
**Viewfinder is clearer.
**Focusing is little bit leggy, specially in low light.
**Flash quality improved. But you have to keep the subject nearer, because camera no more raise ISO above 450,so light sensitivity is less.
**Light Balance is now perfect, no more yellowish photo.
**A new smart mode added. Activate that mode, press shutter, wait a few seconds then three option will come- best photo, action shot, motion focus.
**There is a bad news for advanced users who like to play with camera settings- 3rd party camera app doesn't work anymore, they cant change iso, white balance, etc anything.
I finally managed to spend some time with the DNG files from my LG G4. In other threads and forums I've read that you can't push shadows from the G4's RAW up quite much. Well, being an experienced professional I managed to do it and decided to write this thread. I hope you find it useful.
Below are screenshots of Adobe Camera RAW's window, so you can see the settings for the photo I used. It was really dark when I took this photo and I already knew I will have very dark shadows. I didn't wanted to go beyond ISO 100 and couldn't make it with slower then half a second shutter speed. In the screenshots you can see what it looked like before editing. The settings apply to Lightroom too.
What you would normally do to the shadows in your photos is to push up the "Shadows" setting. In the case of G4 this proves to be not enough. You have to push the "Blacks" setting too. This will light up the shadows enough. I added some push up in the "Curves" too, as I needed more detail in the midtones too. All this brings us to two new problems - noise and purple/magenta tinting. To fix the tinting is easy - go to HSL tab and lower the saturation of Purple and Magenta. Noise, on the other hand, can be tricky. You can see my settings below. You will need all the color NR you can get and the leftover chroma noise will be cleared with combination of "Luminance" and "Luminance detail" - first one will soften the chroma, the second will refine the artifacts of the chroma. Some sharpening will compensate the softening from the chroma reduction.
The 100% crop screenshots are from the upper left corner and will give you a better idea of what is happening. One is before editing, the other is after. I hope all of this is useful to you, my friends!
P.S.: Link to download the DNG file in the example -> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9AzM3KL7-I7YnJUTnhvUERQM28/view?usp=sharing