Related
This is not possible, correct? There is no IR "receiver" on the unit IIRC.
This will determine whether I put the Ouya in the main TV room where it's used by my wife and parents when they're over babysitting. Right now, I have the Apple TV2 and it's programmed in my Harmony so it's easy for them to use.
So, just to be sure, this can't be programmed with a universal remote?
There's no IR receiver, so the only think that comes to mind is a USB IR receiver, even then dunno what the remote would be able to actually control.
has anyone gotten cec to work with the ouya. there was a discussion on the ouya devs forum about it. cant post the link apparently
I'm curious if this would work. It's a universal remote with bluetooth for a ps3
can't post a url, but the product is SMK-Link Blu-Link - Universal remote control - Bluetooth/infrared
xMCNUGGETx said:
I'm curious if this would work. It's a universal remote with bluetooth for a ps3
can't post a url, but the product is SMK-Link Blu-Link - Universal remote control - Bluetooth/infrared
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a Logitech Harmony One and have the IR to Bluetooth adapter Logitech made for communication with the PS3.
I don't have my OUYA yet, but when I do get one, it will be the first thing that I attempt to use. It only simulates PS3 controller inputs, and from what I understand, PS3 controllers work with the OUYA? Obviously would have no clue how to pair the adapter with the OUYA, but will be fun to tinker nevertheless.
Regardless, for XBMC purposes, imo nothing beats Yatse on my Nexus 4. Sure it would be nice to have all-in-one with the Harmony, but Yatse is just too nice, esp with the plugins (SMS popups on the TV and auto-pause/resume for phone calls). So not end of the world, but still would be nice to see if I could with the Harmony. At very least I'd expect someone to come out with drivers and a usb dongle.
xMCNUGGETx said:
I'm curious if this would work. It's a universal remote with bluetooth for a ps3
can't post a url, but the product is SMK-Link Blu-Link - Universal remote control - Bluetooth/infrared
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why did you pick this off-brand PS3 remote? The Sony branded PS3 remote has the same capabilities (bluetooth and IR), but is cheaper than SMK. The Sony branded remote is $18 right now on Amazon. The SMK one is like $30, Amazon and Target.
I don't have either device. But I have a generic IR remote with a USB receiver, and on my computer it acts as a keyboard input. I'm hoping it works on the Ouya. I think I can remap the keys using XBMC.
coachclass said:
Why did you pick this off-brand PS3 remote? The Sony branded PS3 remote has the same capabilities (bluetooth and IR), but is cheaper than SMK. The Sony branded remote is $18 right now on Amazon. The SMK one is like $30, Amazon and Target.
I don't have either device. But I have a generic IR remote with a USB receiver, and on my computer it acts as a keyboard input. I'm hoping it works on the Ouya. I think I can remap the keys using XBMC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have something similar myself. USB IR receiver with a remote that has a "touch disc" on it.
The device actually shows up on Windows as a Universal HID device that works as both a mouse & keyboard.
The media keys and stuff are mapped really oddly, but if you're gonna use it to drive XBMC, you can keymap all that crap without issue.
Then you'll have to make sure you put the receiver where you can get Line Of Sight.
Honestly I am kinda on the fence about this crap at present. I HAVE my Ouya, and it plays games and junk well, but I have a couple issues that I am sort of waiting on:
-No DTS / DD audio passthrough via HDMI to a receiver
-No HDMI-CEC
-Ouya & other game controllers only work as a very limited/terrible keyboard device in current XBMC builds
-No surround sound output from Ouya system-wide (output currently "stuck" on stereo)
-Can't change Ouya output resolution (currently stuck @ 1080P) (My projector wants 720P or 1080i to do SBS 3D content)
Some / all of these are supposedly going to be fixed in software eventually and all are things that the Ouya hardware CAN do. So far my short term lazy solution has just been to use YATSE on my 7" tablet (my main mobile device), which works fine for XBMC needs. I haven't really bothered to fully set up my XBMC stuff (like my library and a nice skin and junk) because I "need" audio passthrough for it to feel like a fully baked solution I will use all the time for movies and junk.
coachclass said:
Why did you pick this off-brand PS3 remote? The Sony branded PS3 remote has the same capabilities (bluetooth and IR), but is cheaper than SMK. The Sony branded remote is $18 right now on Amazon. The SMK one is like $30, Amazon and Target.
I don't have either device. But I have a generic IR remote with a USB receiver, and on my computer it acts as a keyboard input. I'm hoping it works on the Ouya. I think I can remap the keys using XBMC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wasn't aware the official remote also worked as a universal remote.. (no ps3) I saw the blue-link mentioned on the xbmc site as well as the official ps3 remote
DivinityCycle said:
Honestly I am kinda on the fence about this crap at present. I HAVE my Ouya, and it plays games and junk well, but I have a couple issues that I am sort of waiting on:
-No DTS / DD audio passthrough via HDMI to a receiver
-No HDMI-CEC
-Ouya & other game controllers only work as a very limited/terrible keyboard device in current XBMC builds
-No surround sound output from Ouya system-wide (output currently "stuck" on stereo)
-Can't change Ouya output resolution (currently stuck @ 1080P) (My projector wants 720P or 1080i to do SBS 3D content)
Some / all of these are supposedly going to be fixed in software eventually and all are things that the Ouya hardware CAN do. So far my short term lazy solution has just been to use YATSE on my 7" tablet (my main mobile device), which works fine for XBMC needs. I haven't really bothered to fully set up my XBMC stuff (like my library and a nice skin and junk) because I "need" audio passthrough for it to feel like a fully baked solution I will use all the time for movies and junk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How is HDMI-CEC important if the Ouya already acts as the HTPC? Maybe you had something in mind that was different than what I was thinking of? Isn't CEC just a way for the TV device to control the source via the HDMI connection? Can't you just control the Ouya directly for whatever you wanted the CEC control to be?
Personally, a simple remote (like the Sony PS3 remote) that has IR to turn the TV on/off, and bluetooth to control the Ouya (pause/play/select) is most of what I'm looking for. Using a tablet or smartphone seem to not be as convenient for me.
---------- Post added at 06:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:26 AM ----------
xMCNUGGETx said:
wasn't aware the official remote also worked as a universal remote.. (no ps3) I saw the blue-link mentioned on the xbmc site as well as the official ps3 remote
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To me, the required features are to have IR (to control the TV) and bluetooth (to control the Ouya). That'll keep you from needing to hold two remotes.
If anyone has the PS3 remote and an Ouya, I'd be interested in a detail review of how they work together with XBMC. Particularly, how you navigate the menu structure with the arrow keys. It would be nice to not have to use a coffee table mouse for XBMC.
coachclass said:
How is HDMI-CEC important if the Ouya already acts as the HTPC? Maybe you had something in mind that was different than what I was thinking of? Isn't CEC just a way for the TV device to control the source via the HDMI connection? Can't you just control the Ouya directly for whatever you wanted the CEC control to be?
Personally, a simple remote (like the Sony PS3 remote) that has IR to turn the TV on/off, and bluetooth to control the Ouya (pause/play/select) is most of what I'm looking for. Using a tablet or smartphone seem to not be as convenient for me.
---------- Post added at 06:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:26 AM ----------
To me, the required features are to have IR (to control the TV) and bluetooth (to control the Ouya). That'll keep you from needing to hold two remotes.
If anyone has the PS3 remote and an Ouya, I'd be interested in a detail review of how they work together with XBMC. Particularly, how you navigate the menu structure with the arrow keys. It would be nice to not have to use a coffee table mouse for XBMC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do and as far as xbmc navigation goes all the major functions work except for the pause and play button and volume but thats not a big deal since its programed to my tv. Navigating through the ouya menu isnt as good since the enter button doesnt work. Also if you have xbmc set to launch at startup and use the ps3 remote that will cause xbmc to crash initially and using the power button to turn the tv off causes the ps3 remote to lose connection to the ouya so yuo'll have to resart the ouya for it to work again. One last thing is you'll need this app to pair it since ouya cant do it out of the box https://play.google.com/store/apps/...sImNvbS5qcG4uZnJvbnRpYS53YWthLkJsdWV0b290aCJd
tennisbgc said:
Also if you have xbmc set to launch at startup and use the ps3 remote that will cause xbmc to crash initially and using the power button to turn the tv off causes the ps3 remote to lose connection to the ouya so yuo'll have to resart the ouya for it to work again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Am I correct in thinking the PS3 remote connects to the Ouya via bluetooth? So on the PS3 remote, the power button doesn't just send the power IR signal to the TV, but also acts as a soft-off to turn off the PS3 remote? Is that why the remote is losing its connection to the Ouya
coachclass said:
Am I correct in thinking the PS3 remote connects to the Ouya via bluetooth? So on the PS3 remote, the power button doesn't just send the power IR signal to the TV, but also acts as a soft-off to turn off the PS3 remote? Is that why the remote is losing its connection to the Ouya
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes its bluetooth, It seems that the power button also shuts off the remote. Its definitly not ready for day to day yet (I just went to use it and it caused xbmc to crash)
tennisbgc said:
yes its bluetooth, It seems that the power button also shuts off the remote. Its definitly not ready for day to day yet (I just went to use it and it caused xbmc to crash)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up. That's the kind of operational thing that makes a huge difference in how a device can be used, but you'd never know it from reading the spec sheet.
My plan for the Ouya was to use the PS3 remote, but the disconnect issue might be a big deal. I have a bluetooth mouse (microsoft brand) that I know goes to sleep when not in use, but it wakes up fast and connects fast. The sleep function is really not an issue for that bluetooth mouse.
I have updated from FIRE OS 3 to FIRE OS 5 Preview.
After the update audio passthrough in Kodi 15.1 (using optical out) isn't working anymore (It was working fine on FIRE OS 3). When I switch on passthrough I get a hissing/cracking sound.
Anyone else experiencing the same issue?
Does it also occur when using HDMI out? (I can't test it because I have no HDMI in on my receiver)
Same problem here with HDMI. Tried Dolby Digital and DTS both get very loud white noise.
Same here with new Fire TV 4k Also Plex didnt use DTS or DD, Plex show DTS as audio format at playing but it play only PCM.
Just thought I 'd give my details, pretty much same issues as above
Tried - Kodi - 15.1 , 15.2r3 , 16.0a
with
Onkyo tx-nr509
Fire TV 2 (4K)
FTV -> TX-NR509 -> TV all via HDMI
I have switched from ATV where i was using using optical and everything was working fine. FireTV only has HDMI tho.
Tried all combinations of settings and all I get when I enable Dolby Digital (AC3) Transcoding is digital static as if Kodi/Android/Linux is failing to tell the amp to switch from PCM. Frustratingly I did have this working once, no idea what I did, tried everything mentioned in this thread.
Fire TV Prime videos are working flawlessly.
For me the current (annoying) workaround is to play the movie, hear the static, press stop, and play it again. it's worked every time for me so far.
HDMI -> mostly decent Denon here
xenoglyph said:
For me the current (annoying) workaround is to play the movie, hear the static, press stop, and play it again. it's worked every time for me so far.
HDMI -> mostly decent Denon here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
which settings do u use on fire tv 2 and your denon? (got an denon avr 2113)
maybe i missed sth on my denon settings
(installation: fire tv 2 -> input media player (hdmi) denon -> monitor out (hdmi) -> tv)
jackiie said:
which settings do u use on fire tv 2 and your denon? (got an denon avr 2113)
maybe i missed sth on my denon settings
(installation: fire tv 2 -> input media player (hdmi) denon -> monitor out (hdmi) -> tv)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same hardware setup for me. in ftv system settings i have it set to dolby digital plus or whatever their pass thru setting is called. and afaik in kodi when it comes to audio the settings don't really matter when you've got pass thru enabled.
Just thought I'd link the following for anyone having the same issues as me with the AFTV. It looks like a fix for DolbyDigital+ was released to fix issues within NETFLIX and PLEX on the AFTV device itself. Amazon are saying a fix will be rolled out on the 30th November for the older Dolby Digital and some are suggesting this should deal with the issues with KODI pass-through - fingers crossed.
http : // www . aftvnews . com / software-update-with-surround-sound-fix-begins-rolling-out-for-2nd-gen-fire-tv /
xenoglyph said:
same hardware setup for me. in ftv system settings i have it set to dolby digital plus or whatever their pass thru setting is called. and afaik in kodi when it comes to audio the settings don't really matter when you've got pass thru enabled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
weird. maybe i missed sth. use the same settings but still some stupid noise. do u stream your movies? do u use mkv as well? can u send me some screenshots? when i disable pass through in kodi it just show multi in at my denon...
KODI no audio
I have KODI working until FTV2 firmware 5.0.4. KODI no audio 15.2/16 with red mute button on the top right corner
no way to turned on. Tried wukong remote, adjust amplification, change setting in FTV and kodi. Audio is gone forever.
KODI with 5.0.4 works on my FTV2. But I get only DD passthrough. DTS only white noise with my DENON AVR-X1200W. On PCM Output, channels are switched and need to be remapped. I dindn´t found any way in google to remap hdmi channels on android maybe somebody here is able to do some hacking on the ALSA Interface since we have root.
It also doesn´t look like, that the KODI developers have much interest to fix anything in kodi on FTV2 plattform Most development goes in direction of Nvidia Shield.
For thouse who are using Instant Video it´s absolutely dissapointing since most movies i watch via Kodi are with DTS sound. I have to watch them in Stereo PCM. That sucks! Nvidia Shiled is absolutely useless for me.
@woodybarry
try to do a factory reset and do a clean kodi install, without restoring anything.
bigwillie1 said:
I have updated from FIRE OS 3 to FIRE OS 5 Preview.
After the update audio passthrough in Kodi 15.1 (using optical out) isn't working anymore (It was working fine on FIRE OS 3). When I switch on passthrough I get a hissing/cracking sound.
Anyone else experiencing the same issue?
Does it also occur when using HDMI out? (I can't test it because I have no HDMI in on my receiver)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Had the same issue here.
With Fire OS 3 is use the automatic option, enable passthrough in Kodi (at the moment 16.1) and my Teufel Concept E-Digital did recognize DTS or AC3. With the update to Fire OS 5 I lost this feature
I try all options in FireTV OS 5 settings, with enabled or disabled passthrough option.
I've read something about to try:
-SPMC (because of a better Android support)
-kodi 17 beta (because of some passthrough fixxes)
I search for a method to enable the old Fire OS 3 settings for audio in Fire OS 5! Any ideas? Is it just a another lib/module to replace? @aftvnews
Elias, did you have any ideas?
If I dont find a solution I will sell my AFTV1 box...
Greetings by Idijt
Factory reset of AFTV worked for me. Make sure to back up Kodi config before and liars before wiping.
I just purchased the Shield TV remote to replace my broken Nexus Player remote and the volume control doesnt work because NP has it locked. Any ideas how to unlock it so I can use the remote to change volume?
Since it has HDMI digital output only, the volume is at your playback device, e.g. TV side.
Has nothing to do with HDMI. The Chromecast & Shield are also HDMI only. It's locked down by Google who thought it was a great idea, it's not.
fontong said:
Has nothing to do with HDMI. The Chromecast & Shield are also HDMI only. It's locked down by Google who thought it was a great idea, it's not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is. By having the volume control on the analog side preserves the full fidelity of audio as much as possible. Doing so on a digital audio path reduces effective bit-depth of the audio as well as dynamic range. Almost all HDMI source devices have locked volume control (cable box, DVD/BD players etc.).
I got the volume control working by installing the android 6.0 Image from zulu99.
ladidaaa said:
I got the volume control working by installing the android 6.0 Image from zulu99.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
?? Link please? Tell us more this is ground breaking stuff, don't just post half a sentence! :crying:
there you go:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-player/orig-development/rom-t3222022
this is a completly different ROM so no Android TV anymore!
Tried the USB audio out to a couple of external DACs and both have pops and clicks. It appears like the Shield up samples everything to the max capability of the DAC up to 192k. This causes random unlocking of the signal to the DAC causing the pops and clicks. It also prevents the transmission of bit perfect audio to the DAC.
Does anybody know of a way to switch off up sampling in the Shield so that it plays the native sampling rate of the source? Is there some way of "conning" the Shield during the USB handshake?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
themystical said:
Tried the USB audio out to a couple of external DACs and both have pops and clicks. It appears like the Shield up samples everything to the max capability of the DAC up to 192k. This causes random unlocking of the signal to the DAC causing the pops and clicks. It also prevents the transmission of bit perfect audio to the DAC.
Does anybody know of a way to switch off up sampling in the Shield so that it plays the native sampling rate of the source? Is there some way of "conning" the Shield during the USB handshake?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Response from Nvidia customer service:
We're sorry, unfortunately there is no option for Manual control upsampling or downsampling with External Digital to Analog Converter on Shield Android TV.
Any help appreciated!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for posting this. I have similar issues using a NAD D3020 amp as my DAC. If there's constant audio it's fine, but whenever the SHIELD idles for a bit the next sound (e.g. scrolling through menus) is a loud crackle/pop.
This is sorted now with the 3.0 update. It is now possible to select 192k or 44.1k audio output through settings.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Hi all,
I just saw this thread about USB DAC. My problem is slightly different.
Indeed, FW 3.0 just improved USB DAC compatibility within Android. Still, a new problem arises within Kodi.
With 2.1 FW, I could use my Rega DAC (it is passthrough compatible). AC3 and DTS were sent to my AV receiver perfectly (passthrough working under Kodi).
With 3.0, I can no longer use my Rega DAC under Kodi. Passthrough is not functional within Kodi. I have ugly white/pink noise instead.
So now I'm left with no possibility to let my DAC passthrough the audio to my receiver. This is really boring since my receiver has no USB in, and requires my DAC to passthrough via optical cable.
Good news is improved compatibility under Android system : my other high-end DAC now works with 3.0 (impossible under 2.1) although it is not passthrough compatible.
So my question : what's wrong with the 3.0 update related to USB device or audio passthrough within Kodi ?
Anyone with a hint or solution ? Thanks by advance.
AngelHeart said:
Hi all,
I just saw this thread about USB DAC. My problem is slightly different.
Indeed, FW 3.0 just improved USB DAC compatibility within Android. Still, a new problem arises within Kodi.
With 2.1 FW, I could use my Rega DAC (it is passthrough compatible). AC3 and DTS were sent to my AV receiver perfectly (passthrough working under Kodi).
With 3.0, I can no longer use my Rega DAC under Kodi. Passthrough is not functional within Kodi. I have ugly white/pink noise instead.
So now I'm left with no possibility to let my DAC passthrough the audio to my receiver. This is really boring since my receiver has no USB in, and requires my DAC to passthrough via optical cable.
Good news is improved compatibility under Android system : my other high-end DAC now works with 3.0 (impossible under 2.1) although it is not passthrough compatible.
So my question : what's wrong with the 3.0 update related to USB device or audio passthrough within Kodi ?
Anyone with a hint or solution ? Thanks by advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First post here, I had a related issue where I had to modify audio_policy.conf in order to get DTS to passthrough to receiver via the TV's optical connection (Shield to TV to Receiver). That problem was related to the TV's EDID not reporting DTS capability, even though it technically works (probably omitted due to licensing fees). Anyway, in \system\etc\audio_policy.conf, there was also a setting for USB passthrough. You may be able to manually enter the formats to passthrough instead of relying on "dynamic", which relies on polling the device what it supports. (requires root access to edit this).
Thanks for advice.
I'll check this and come back after rooting my SATV
settings
Hi,
I've not been able to root my device, since root is difficult to perform with 500gb version added to 4K TV (TWRP not compatible).
Still, seems like USB passthrough is set to "2". Apparently "0" means disabled whereas "1" is activated (correct me if I'm wrong)
So, do I have no choice except from root ? If you have any clue about this, could you please keep me in the know ?
Thanks in advance,
Pops and clicks
I just put in a Turtle Beach Audio Advantage Micro II USB Analog & Digital Audio Adapter. Works just fine like people are saying but when no audio is going on the led on the Micro II goes off. Then when there is anything, even system sounds it kicks on the LED turns on and my speakers pop loud. Has anyone figured a fix or is this just USB audio. And is an HDMI audio puller a better solution for simple stereo 2.1 setup? Or does that pop too?
OK. Think i found a temp fix. When using USB DAC direct to an analog source it kept popping because it was sending live signal to hot amp every time USB DAC would come back from standby. SO how to keep DAC from sleeping when no sound was live, I installed VirtualHere USB Server From the TV Play store. Checked always as this was only USB device i had plugged in. Then went to setting and only checked Start On Boot. Since then after full restart DAC stays on, LED stays lit and sound is always on. No more pops.
I just switched to using a new TV over the weekend that's (finally!) 4k.
If it matters, the TV is the bleeding new Vizio P65-C1 also a good write up on the TV can be found here.
When I plug the Shield TV directly into the TV via HDMI and go to the Shield's settings then HDMI, it detects and shows (Recommended) next to 4K 60hz, which is what I set it to.
I can play YouTube 4K videos, I can watch anything I want without issue on Plex or Kodi, I can play all of my usual Shield exclusive games like Doom 3 or Portal without issue but for whatever reason, Netflix will just not play anything. Not just 4K/UHD content, just any content. I can move around through the Netflix menus and browse for what I want to watch without issue but when I try to actually play something it has no audio and freezes and might jump forward in broken increments or will be 100% frozen on the screen. I can stop it without issue and the app is otherwise responsive and not frozen.
I can Cast Netflix content to my Shield TV and it works without issue also. Correction, I cannot cast Netflix to the Shield TV. Same issues as trying to play locally. I was accidentally casting to my TV directly, which does work without issue. Both my TV and y Shield TV are hard wired to my router directly via ethernet.
It's only when I try using the Netflix app that is built-in.
The thing I noticed when I Cast vs the native app is it shows a loading progress screen and can take a few seconds depending on the contents quality to hit 100% then start playing. It seems like the native Netflix app is not trying to cache the content and seems like it's trying to direct stream it, which it cannot keep up with for some reason.
The same happens with cartoons, older shows that at best are available in 1080P like X-files or of course UHD/4K content. There is no different in the behavior between the different source videos in the native app.
I have already created a support request directly with Nvidia but wanted to see if others have encountered this as well and have any suggestions on what I can try to fix it?
Correction, I cannot cast Netflix to the Shield TV. Same issues as trying to play locally. I was accidentally casting to my TV directly, which does work without issue. Both my TV and y Shield TV are hard wired to my router directly via ethernet.
Hey man... Finally got some sun in Atlanta?? What a nice day....
Anyways...see the link below I answered for somebody else, see it applies to you. They key is HDCP2.2 compatible equipment all along your video signal, Shield (which is), receiver, TV input. If any isn't, it won't work.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tv/help/netflix-4k-issue-t3291720
MrBungle67 said:
Hey man... Finally got some sun in Atlanta?? What a nice day....
Anyways...see the link below I answered for somebody else, see it applies to you. They key is HDCP2.2 compatible equipment all along your video signal, Shield (which is), receiver, TV input. If any isn't, it won't work.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tv/help/netflix-4k-issue-t3291720
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was a beautiful pollen coated day today
I checked and sure enough the TV does support HDCP2.2. Though it also notes that while it's HDMI 2.0, it's not enabled yet and will be coming soon in a firmware upgrade. Makes me wonder if that'll fix this once it's available.
I'm still going back and forth with Nvidia as well but so far nothing other than answering some questions and sending them some logs.
From your TV user manual:
When connecting a HDMI 2.0 device, HDMI Color Subsampling needs to be enabled to support 4K resolution at 60hz.
reTARDIS said:
Though it also notes that while it's HDMI 2.0, it's not enabled yet and will be coming soon in a firmware upgrade.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Statement not correct... It support HDMI 2.0 out of the box. It's the HDMI 2.0a support that will be coming via a firmware upgrade.
the.teejster said:
From your TV user manual:
When connecting a HDMI 2.0 device, HDMI Color Subsampling needs to be enabled to support 4K resolution at 60hz.
Statement not correct... It support HDMI 2.0 out of the box. It's the HDMI 2.0a support that will be coming via a firmware upgrade.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, good catch. I'm not as up to date on the HDMI specs/standards these days.
I'm guessing then that HDCP2.2 should work out of the box though but will contact Vizio support to confirm.
Just curious...have you tried different HDMI inputs?
"The new P-Series models will include: four HDMI 2.0a/HDCP 2,2 inputs, plus one additional HDMI that handles 4k/60p at 4:2:0, although it is listed as HDMI 1.4, Vizio told us. The HDMI 2.0a inputs will allow the Vizio displays to connect to new Ultra HD Blu-ray players to stream 4K with HDR10 metadata, something earlier Vizio 4K UHDTVs have lacked"
Are you connected to that "one" input?
MrBungle67 said:
Just curious...have you tried different HDMI inputs?
"The new P-Series models will include: four HDMI 2.0a/HDCP 2,2 inputs, plus one additional HDMI that handles 4k/60p at 4:2:0, although it is listed as HDMI 1.4, Vizio told us. The HDMI 2.0a inputs will allow the Vizio displays to connect to new Ultra HD Blu-ray players to stream 4K with HDR10 metadata, something earlier Vizio 4K UHDTVs have lacked"
Are you connected to that "one" input?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
According to Vizio's support "The tv supports HDCP 2.2 on all HDMI ports" so I'm not sure. The manual does not detail specific ports at all for HDCP.
@reTARDIS I just bought the same TV and am seeing the same issue. I noticed that if I change the Audio setting for the show I'm watching from "English 5.1" to "English" the show streams correctly. I'm not sure why this is happening either.
oracleicom said:
@reTARDIS I just bought the same TV and am seeing the same issue. I noticed that if I change the Audio setting for the show I'm watching from "English 5.1" to "English" the show streams correctly. I'm not sure why this is happening either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting find. I'll test that on mine this evening.
@oracleicom I just tried this and confirmed it works for me as well. I send an update to Nvidia with this info to see what they have to say. Thanks for the workaround. It's not perfect but will do for the short term.
I would make sure you have a HDMI 2.0 cable (18Gb/sec), that's the only one that supports 4K @ 60fps with 4:4:4 chroma (color).
Use a port on the tv that supports HDMI 2.0.
I am having the same issue with Nvidia Shield and and the same TV. I was so excited when I got it today. I can also make it go with changing it english from 5.1. I had the Shield hooked up to a previous Vizio 4k TV and there was no issue. I am talking to Vizio support now and they want to blame the Shield even though it works fine with their previous 4K TV.
I also tested with my Nexus Player and it has the same issue.
@reTARDIS Did you ever get a reply from anyone at Vizio or Nvidia? On mine, everything but Netflix works fine, so maybe it is something that Netflix can fix in their Android TV app.
Correction, both Google Play Movies & TV and Netflix have the issue. Nvidia is saying it is Vizio's issue and Vizio is saying it is Nvidia's issue. I pointed out the Nexus Player has the same issue with the new Vizio and they have not replied.
reverik said:
@reTARDIS Did you ever get a reply from anyone at Vizio or Nvidia? On mine, everything but Netflix works fine, so maybe it is something that Netflix can fix in their Android TV app.
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They've really not given any indication that they have a clear understanding on what is happening and every time I ask for an update, if they reply at all, it's just to say that they're still researching the issue.
They recently suggested that I test the following.
SHIELD TV HDMI out -> Vizio P65-C1 -> Vizio P65-C1 HDMI ARC to Pioneer SC-1522K
Initially, I didn't think this would work as I had thought TV's did not output anything via HDMI and could only input but after doing some further reading today into HDMI and ARC, I think it might work to output just audio from my TV via HDMI to the receiver using one of the HDMI ports that supports ARC but I have not yet tried this.
As a backup solution, I just ordered this USB to Optical audio adapter last night that others have said works with the Shield TV to output audio via USB to TOSLINK. The device includes a TOSLINK to SPDIF adapter. I plan on just using this to output SPDIF directly to my receiver to bypass the Vizio TV to see if this resolves the issue or not. I will update later once I've tested it out.
I'll report back my findings with both test.
Update: The same issue exist with the USB to SPDIF/Optical adapter straight into the SPDIF/Optical input on my receiver (bypassing the TV for audio).
I'm at a loss for what to try next and the issue has not gone away.
Update: I figured out how to make ARC via HDMI work from my TV to my receiver over the weekend and am now only using audio out for all devices connect to my TV via HDMI then out via the ARC HDMI port on my TV (HDMI 1) and into the ARC input on my Pioneer receiver. While audio works without issue for any connected device and the Shield TV in general, the same issue exist as before with 5.1 audio playback from Netflix on the Shield TV.
I also did a factory reset on my Shield TV this past weekend but sadly it didn't change/fix the issue which still persist.
I just cast to my TV now for Netflix and avoid using the Netflix app on the Shield TV.