Related
Tracking this info down was a nightmare for me. Hope this is useful to someone.
Requirements:
• Axxess aswc-1 Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface. (link)
• Time and patience.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT use the 3.5mm Female input (SWC IR-WIRELESS Steering Wheel Key Control Port) on the back of the Atoto A6 Pro. This port does not work for some reason.
**Connections to the Car**
1. Download the vehicle specific instructions for your car, as well as the "Axxess Steering Wheel Control Interface Installation Manual" (two different PDFs) from https://axxessinterfaces.com.
2. Follow the vehicle specific instructions to first connect the AWSC-1 to your car.
**Connections to the Radio**
1. The aswc-1 includes a female 3.5mm connector with a brown and brown/white wire coming out. Use this to connect to the Atoto’s Steering Wheel Key(+) and Steering Wheel Key#(+) wires.
2. Connect the "Steering Wheel Key+” wire of the Atoto A6 to the Brown/White wire of Axxess ASWC-1, connect the "Steering WheelKey#+” wire of the Atoto A6 to the Brown wire of the aswc-1
(yes, both of these wires are positive. I don't know who or why, but it works.)
3. Plug the male 3.5 mm jack from the aswc-1, into the female 3.5 mm jack that you wired up in step 2.
4. The ASWC-1 will NOT auto detect the Atoto A6. (don't worry, not a problem)
5. Follow the instructions from page 12 of the "Axxess Steering Wheel Control Interface Installation Manual" to change your radio type.
Change your radio type to "Visteon". (Visteon is radio type 8).
7. At this point you have completed configuring the aswc-1. Next, move on to your radio.
8. From the radio navigate to: Settings>Default settings>Steering wheel program.
9. Once at the screen press "Reset".
10. Then press any key value from the menu, it will begin to flash.
11. Finally press one of the buttons on your steering wheel. The flashing key (from step 10) on your radio will stop flashing, and a triangular symbol will appear on the key. This indicates the key has been successfully programmed.
repeat steps 10 and 11 until you have programmed all the steering wheel control buttons. :good:
first thanks for the guide there is nothing of information of those two wires anywhere.
second, I followed all the steps except the manual programming of the stereo, but use the axxess app to program the module as Visteon but I still can not make it to work, I know that axxess is well connected to the car because it already worked with my previous stereo but honestly I do not know what else I can do to make it work.
ATOTO steering wheel control for cars with resistance circuit
Just wanted to mention that if you vehicle's steering wheel controls is based on a simple resistance circuit, then it can be connected directly to ATOTO with no need for Axxess aswc-1. My vehicle (2011 Subaru WRX) was in this category.
For my vehicle, there are two wires in the harness and the resistance between these two wires will change depending on which SWC button is pressed on the steering wheel. Unfortunately, the ATOTO documentation is dead wrong how to hook this up. The manual says that if your vehicle has two wires, you should connect the two wires from the vehicle to the "Steering WheelKey#+” and "Steering WheelKey+” wires. That doesn't work. Instead you should connect one of the vehicle wires to chassis ground and the other vehicle wire to either of the ATOTO "Steering WheelKey" wires. I think the ATOTO wires are both labeled as "+" because they assume the vehicle SWC will provide a path to ground. Hope this information helps someone else.
Thanks a lot for your sharing! Really helpful!
jackohound said:
Just wanted to mention that if you vehicle's steering wheel controls is based on a simple resistance circuit, then it can be connected directly to ATOTO with no need for Axxess aswc-1. My vehicle (2011 Subaru WRX) was in this category.
For my vehicle, there are two wires in the harness and the resistance between these two wires will change depending on which SWC button is pressed on the steering wheel. Unfortunately, the ATOTO documentation is dead wrong how to hook this up. The manual says that if your vehicle has two wires, you should connect the two wires from the vehicle to the "Steering WheelKey#+” and "Steering WheelKey+” wires. That doesn't work. Instead you should connect one of the vehicle wires to chassis ground and the other vehicle wire to either of the ATOTO "Steering WheelKey" wires. I think the ATOTO wires are both labeled as "+" because they assume the vehicle SWC will provide a path to ground. Hope this information helps someone else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the Atoto a6 there is a Steering Wheel Key + (Orange wire) and a Steering Wheel Key# + (Brown, Black Stripe).
On my Metra harness there is a Steering Wheel 1 (Green), Steering Wheel 2 (Blue), 12v (Red) and Ground (Black). All for the Steering controls.
This is on my 11 WRX.
andrewd5418 said:
On the Atoto a6 there is a Steering Wheel Key + (Orange wire) and a Steering Wheel Key# + (Brown, Black Stripe).
On my Metra harness there is a Steering Wheel 1 (Green), Steering Wheel 2 (Blue), 12v (Red) and Ground (Black). All for the Steering controls.
This is on my 11 WRX.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you give a link to the Metra harness you have? The 2011 WRX steering wheel controls have 2 or 3 wires depending on your car's options, so having 4 steering wheel wires on the Metra harness seems strange. I'll paste one of the wiring diagrams here, guessing at your car's options. If you have trouble pasting a link to a Metra part like 70-8901 , just add some spaces onto the URL to make it look like plain text.
Also it would help to know if your 2011 WRX came originally from the factory with a non-bluetooth radio, bluetooth radio, or with the Navigation. The important point here is whether your steering wheel has just the Vol+/Vol-/Mode/Seek button cluster or if you also have the other cluster for controlling the bluetooth phone.
My guess is that you should connect Metra SteeringWheel1 to ATOTO Steering_Wheel_Key+, connect Metra SteeringWheel2 to Chassis Ground, and leave the any other steering wheel specific wires on your Metra harness unconnected since ATOTO doesnt need those. This is just a guess without the other info that I requested.
My bad. It is an "upgraded metra". It won't let me post a link. From auto harness house part AHH-70-7552
My cars a limited no nav. So it has bluetooth.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
andrewd5418 said:
My bad. It is an "upgraded metra". It won't let me post a link. From auto harness house part AHH-70-7552
My cars a limited no nav. So it has bluetooth.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, so given that you have harness AHH-70-7552, then you should connect Metra SteeringWheel1 to ATOTO Steering_Wheel_Key+; connect Metra SteeringWheel2 to ATOTO Steering Wheel Key#+; leave the Metra SWC +12 and ground wires unconnected (ATOTO doesnt need those). The "third" common wire from your vehicle's SWC will be correctly connected by ground by the harness itself, as is noted in the AH-70-7552 product page:
*Pin 14 is grounded in the harness for the convenience of the installer. If this connection is not desired, cut the wire that connects between pin 14 and pin 10
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BTW, you might find this AE64 page useful for details on the pinouts for your subaru's 20-pin connector.
On a separate topic, are you connecting a back-up camera to the ATOTO? Noticed that your Metra harness doesnt have the reverse gear signal.
I was going to eventually and just run a wire from the reverse sensor wire to the units harness
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
---------- Post added at 10:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 PM ----------
Do you know if I leave the parking brake wire disconnected on the atoto harness?
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andrewd5418 said:
I was going to eventually and just run a wire from the reverse sensor wire to the units harness
Do you know if I leave the parking brake wire disconnected on the atoto harness?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that's what I did on my install and what I would recommend. The ATOTO has a "feature" where it will disable playback of videos unless the parking brake is set, but that feature is disabled by default. There is no particular reason to connect the parking brake wire to the ATOTO unless you plan on enabling that feature.
Atoto swc
Thank you for your tip, my car Mitsubishi Pajero dakar has 2 wires with diferent resisteses, i conected 1 cable from the car to ATOTO and the second cable of the car to ATOTO AND GROUND toghether, that was the only way that worked... if i leave the second cable of atoto without ground it do not work..
Outlander 2015 Problem
Hi All !
I followed your instructions.
I have a Outlander 2015 and a ATOTO Pro A6.
After configuring the AWSC-1, only two buttons on the steering wheel work in the mapping panel (Volume up and skip right) no other wheel button is recongnized by ATOTO
I tried to swap the wires from the male jack connected to Steering key and key# with no luck.
Anybody encountered the same problem ?
Thank you
help what colour
jackohound said:
Just wanted to mention that if you vehicle's steering wheel controls is based on a simple resistance circuit, then it can be connected directly to ATOTO with no need for Axxess aswc-1. My vehicle (2011 Subaru WRX) was in this category.
For my vehicle, there are two wires in the harness and the resistance between these two wires will change depending on which SWC button is pressed on the steering wheel. Unfortunately, the ATOTO documentation is dead wrong how to hook this up. The manual says that if your vehicle has two wires, you should connect the two wires from the vehicle to the "Steering WheelKey#+” and "Steering WheelKey+” wires. That doesn't work. Instead you should connect one of the vehicle wires to chassis ground and the other vehicle wire to either of the ATOTO "Steering WheelKey" wires. I think the ATOTO wires are both labeled as "+" because they assume the vehicle SWC will provide a path to ground. Hope this information helps someone else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a 2011 subaru forester sounds like same wires /radio but what wire from the car do I need to connect? I understand I dont need a controller for this? there are 2 wires coming from atoto radio harness but what are the color of wires i need to connect to the car?
inventiveash said:
I have a 2011 subaru forester sounds like same wires /radio but what wire from the car do I need to connect?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did your 2011 Subaru Forester come from the factory with Navigation? If not, then does your steering wheel one cluster of SWC buttons (Vol+,Vol-, Seek+, Seek-, Mode, Mute) or does it also have the second cluster of SWC buttons for controlling Bluetooth phone? These questions affects the color and location of the wires you'll be looking for.
It has volume +&-
Tune up and down
Mode
No mute button
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
creatingash said:
It has volume +&-
Tune up and down
Mode
No mute button
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, Take that to mean your 2011 Subaru Forester did not come with factory navigation and does not have the Bluetooth steering wheel buttons. In that case, you are looking for the following two wires on your car:
Yellow wire: Connected to pin 14 of your 20-pin Subaru audio connector.
LightGreen with red stripe: Connected to pin 4 of the 20-pin Subaru audio connector.
Refer to pics and pinouts of the 20-pin Subaru connector. Connect one of the above two Subaru wires (either one) to ground. Connect the remaining Subaru wire to ATOTO orange-black steering wheel key (+).
Leave the ATOTO brown-black steering wheel key #(+) unconnected. This worked for me, but others had reported that they needed to connect the steering wheel key #(+) to ground, so you could try that if needed.
Thank you, I will give it a try,
Since you are familiar any idea the best place for finding a reverse light wire easy to get to.
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inventiveash said:
any idea the best place for finding a reverse light wire easy to get to?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On 2011 Subaru Forester with factory navigation, that wire (a brown wire with yellow stripe) would be brought out to one of the navigation connectors. Don't know if that wire is accessible in your vehicle's instrument panel harness or not.
2015 Honda Fit
I've got the AWSC-01 connected to the HDCC-02 harness. The module will sense my buttons for setup but I cannot get it to work with the head unit. The head unit will detect a button press when the module ends it's setup mode on boot though. I've got it hooked up as described using the wires through the HDCC-02 harness. I even tried grounding each wire and it didn't make a difference.
According to another user they had to buy a $100 adapter to get it to work. I really don't want to pay $100 for steering wheel buttons.
Help would be appreciated.
2014 WRX l, no nav, bluetooth.
So my Metra harness did not come with steering wheel pins (4, 13, 14) can I just bypass the harness and hook it up straight from the A6 to the cars wires?
Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).
surfer63 said:
Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought one of these for my Joying Sofia system, one made for VWs, as I have a Passat. I had the exact same experience as you, right down to measuring the voltages and seeing them change.
Step back to my previous sysyem, an Xtrons that I bought a universal steering wheel mounted wireless controller, and it worked flawlessly. The Xtrons was also made specifically fow VWs, but the generic controller worked fine. I tried it with the VW-centric Joying Sofia and went through the testing discussed previously.
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.
markmorto said:
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case? Because I first disconnected the brown/pink from the Joying CANbus connector and also removed the entire JY CANbus itself.
Anyway, I will check again. I thought that the brown and pink key1 and key2 wires were leading, but obviously that's not true.
The green (CAN/L) and black/green(CAN/H) wire coming from the Skoda (in my case) ISO adapter are leading into the JY CAN bus. The pink/brown then come again from the JY CANbus and lead to the unit.
So I will try to connect the key1/key2 wires to the green and black/green wire. But maybe I need to ground the CAN/L wire and connect one or both key1/key2 wires to the CAN/H wire.
(Although in one of the Joying diagrams, the green and green/black are for the Left Rear speaker, but that does not comply with my Skoda ISO adapter. confusing.)
Of course it can also mean that the JY CANbus expects a digital CANbus signal instead of an analog resistive signal, in which case it will not work at all, not without an analog to digital converter at least.
To be continued.
surfer63 said:
Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.
markmorto said:
The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.
surfer63 said:
It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had some more mail exchange with Joying. The VW models have a different motherboard with different connections. The unit in the video is actually a universal model just connected to display the working of a universal SWC with a universal Joying unit.
So maybe I should try to use some "universal analog/CAN-bus steering wheel converter" and connect the SWC to the converter, and then connect the converter to the CAN/H, CAN/L connectors of the Joying ISO adapter.
But I'm already tired of it. I wanted a simple way to try and maybe do some test work for XFytTweaker.
Hi all !
I'm starting a new thread because I did not find a lot of information about ATOTO A6 Pro and steering wheel controls.
I have a outlander 2015 and Im trying to use the steering wheel controls on the ATOTO using a aswc-1. I plugged the brown wire and brown white of the aswc to the two swc wires on the ATOTO.
The aswc auto detects the car but not the radio. I tried pioneer and Visteon but only two buttons work (vol up and seek forward).
I also tried to switch the two wires. No luck.
Anybody had success configuring the pro version ? Which radio type did you use ?
Tried to contact Atoto support but no news from them yet.
Thank you !
Hi, me too I need an interface between sec and tesla style android radio. Let me know if it will work
Inviato dal mio ONEPLUS A6003 utilizzando Tapatalk
Problem solved !
I finally found a solution to my problem.
I got rid of the aswc-1
I connected pin 9 from the 20 pin power harness to the steering wheel key + (not the #) of the ATOTO pro and I also connect pin 19 to ground.
That's it !
After that I configured the different associations between keys and action in
Settings general settings steering wheel on ATOTO.
Hope it helps
Merry xmas to all. !!!
LoloTheJeeper said:
I finally found a solution to my problem.
I got rid of the aswc-1
I connected pin 9 from the 20 pin power harness to the steering wheel key + (not the #) of the ATOTO pro and I also connect pin 19 to ground.
That's it !
After that I configured the different associations between keys and action in
Settings general settings steering wheel on ATOTO.
Hope it helps
Merry xmas to all. !!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lolo - how did you identify which wire to attach to the Atoto, and which to ground?
I have an issue with Atoto A6 and steering wheel controls as well. The information on this subject is all over the place.
I have a 2010 Prius with steering wheel control built in, but the suggestion was that I could not use Atoto's SWC without an Axxess ASCW-1. So I bought that, and a wiring harness for the Atoto to the Prius, so I wouldn't have to wire anything myself.
So, the radio is working fine... but the steering wheel control is completely non-operative. I'm using only four wires on the Axxess - red, black, green orange (or brown?) and green black. Wiring just the power and ground (red and black) I got a slowly alternating red/green on the Axxess. Wiring to the SWC1 and ground gave me a solid green on the Axxess (the wire harness SWC2 is an empty socket). Even with the solid green, when attempting to program the SWC in the Atoto menus results in no response. I'm sure the wiring is janky, of course, because the information is so sparse and at times conflicting.
So... do I even NEED the Axxess on an Atoto A6 and the 10-15 Prius? If I don't need it, what's the process for hooking up the stereo alone? This is making me... unhappy. LOL.
sonicsleuth said:
Lolo - how did you identify which wire to attach to the Atoto, and which to ground?
I have an issue with Atoto A6 and steering wheel controls as well. The information on this subject is all over the place.
I have a 2010 Prius with steering wheel control built in, but the suggestion was that I could not use Atoto's SWC without an Axxess ASCW-1. So I bought that, and a wiring harness for the Atoto to the Prius, so I wouldn't have to wire anything myself.
So, the radio is working fine... but the steering wheel control is completely non-operative. I'm using only four wires on the Axxess - red, black, green orange (or brown?) and green black. Wiring just the power and ground (red and black) I got a slowly alternating red/green on the Axxess. Wiring to the SWC1 and ground gave me a solid green on the Axxess (the wire harness SWC2 is an empty socket). Even with the solid green, when attempting to program the SWC in the Atoto menus results in no response. I'm sure the wiring is janky, of course, because the information is so sparse and at times conflicting.
So... do I even NEED the Axxess on an Atoto A6 and the 10-15 Prius? If I don't need it, what's the process for hooking up the stereo alone? This is making me... unhappy. LOL.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure about the 10-15 Prius, but you can check with a multimeter. If you only have 1 or 2 SWC wires, just check resistance between the wire(s) and ground when you press buttons. Resistive SWC just use different resistances for each button press (which you'll see in Ohms). If they're resistive, no adapter necessary. Just splice and go.
lastdeadmouse said:
I'm not sure about the 10-15 Prius, but you can check with a multimeter. If you only have 1 or 2 SWC wires, just check resistance between the wire(s) and ground when you press buttons. Resistive SWC just use different resistances for each button press (which you'll see in Ohms). If they're resistive, no adapter necessary. Just splice and go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I figured it out by going back to my early years as an IT tech.
There were FOUR separate wiring harnesses the original Prius II (2010, non-JBL) had connected to the factory Matsushita stereo. I bought an Axxess ASWC-1 and a wiring harness specifically for the Atoto A6 to a Prius. The new harness only used TWO of the FOUR harnesses (an 8 pin and a 12 pin, unused were a 20 pin and a 10 pin). The problem is that the wiring harness had two SWC wires, and neither was *actually* going to the factory SWC. I couldn't diagnose which wires were the SWC... so like an IT tech, I hooked the old radio up and just started eliminating the harnesses one at a time to figure out which one had the SWC wires.
Lots of web searching told me I might be looking for a pink and red wire, the process above *confirmed* that the harness with the pink and red wires was the harness that included the SWC. SO. I cut the pink and red and hand-wired them to the SWC1 and 2 of the Atoto HU (ignoring the Axxess ASWC-1 completely)... and it worked. Went into the Android default settings, programmed the Keys to Vol + and - and FFD/Rew, and then it completely worked. What's more, I can return the Axxess ASWC-1 to Amazon and have one less aftermarket part jammed into my dash.
I put all this information here so if anybody has a similar Prius they want to upgrade they can see my experience. If you have a Prius 2010-2015 and you want to upgrade the factory radio, you can do it with an Atoto A6 and retain your SWC without any adapters. Yay!
LoloTheJeeper said:
Problem solved !
I finally found a solution to my problem.
I got rid of the aswc-1
I connected pin 9 from the 20 pin power harness to the steering wheel key + (not the #) of the ATOTO pro and I also connect pin 19 to ground.
That's it !
After that I configured the different associations between keys and action in
Settings general settings steering wheel on ATOTO.
Hope it helps
Merry xmas to all. !!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What vehicle? I need help with a 2014 Nissan Altima. Anyone out there?
pyng123 said:
What vehicle? I need help with a 2014 Nissan Altima. Anyone out there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you end up going with Atoto. I am considered one and did not find much information!
Hi professionals. Thanks for reading my plea for help. I have a 2005 SLK 200 R171. I recently decided to change my player from the usual audio 20 with cd changer to this Erisin Android PX5 head unit i got off aliexpress. When i received it, i noticed that the harness supplied with the player did not fit my car. Hence i opted to buy a Dynavin harness which by pictures the harness fitted my original plug but the cable attaching to my headunit did not. So i did my rewiring myself. Followed the usual colour and power and got the headunit powered up. However i noticed the can bus is fed with one constant wire, one ground wire, and both the can high and can low cables from the car. And there are 3 cables that goes from the canbus unit to the headunit i.e. brown for reverse, red for acc, orange for illumination. I have 2 more wires with a small harness (White and white/black stripe wire) that does not have an input to anywhere (I believe that Is the canbus high and low to the headunit) and a blue wire. On my headunit harness, according to the wiring diagram attached with the player, there is only one wire going to the can low socket and the can high is empty. Hence i attached my can low from the headunit to a blue wire from the canbus and noticed my steering wheel controls work (volume buttons and +/- track). However, the display on my dash says audio off. Also my rear view camera goes on and off (I looped the trigger wire to the reverse brown wire that exits the canbus and goes to the headunit reverse). I will try an attach a video. Does anyone know if i have made a mistake in the wiring? And does anyone have a wiring diagram for the can bus decoder (brown semi transparent box)?
Any help is very very much appreciated. Thanks tonnes.
My issue link
vimeo dot com slash 462084336
( sorry wasnt allowed to post a link)
Hello Haven,
Did you ever receive an answer? I am having a similar issue. I bought an android head unit with can bus decoder. Almost all the wiring harnesses were wrong and I had to rewire myself. the chinese supplier did not provide any wiring diagrams or pinouts, (claims they do not have any). I finally got my reverse camera, sound, and steering wheel controls working. (all come directly into head unit. The can bus decoder does not seem to be connected to the can H and Can L from the vehicle. I have the same 3 wires from can bus decoder box to android head unit. I am certain based on the other wire harnesses received that the wiring from car to can bus decoder is wrong. Can you tell me what two pins the Can H and Can L are fed to on your decoder box?
Seeing if anyone has any input here to possibly assist getting on of the new Joying Android 10 units working with the steering wheel controls on my 2008 350Z. I just cannot wrap my head around this. I don't believe my car has CANBUS but there seems to be no real concrete info. If not, I've read some conflicting items here. There's 2 plugs on the car harness that went to the stock radio that don't seem to have an equivalent to the aftermarket harness or unit. Can they be adapted somehow
There are universal adapters but I read that you have to splice and solder IN THE CAR for this **** to actually work? What a nightmare. Is there anything that I can pre-wire that just works? The AXXESS and PAC unit seem to require an engineering degree to figure out in addition to splicing the factory harness. This all seems so ridiculously difficult, there has to be a better way here.
level5music said:
Seeing if anyone has any input here to possibly assist getting on of the new Joying Android 10 units working with the steering wheel controls on my 2008 350Z. I just cannot wrap my head around this. I don't believe my car has CANBUS but there seems to be no real concrete info. If not, I've read some conflicting items here. There's 2 plugs on the car harness that went to the stock radio that don't seem to have an equivalent to the aftermarket harness or unit. Can they be adapted somehow
There are universal adapters but I read that you have to splice and solder IN THE CAR for this **** to actually work? What a nightmare. Is there anything that I can pre-wire that just works? The AXXESS and PAC unit seem to require an engineering degree to figure out in addition to splicing the factory harness. This all seems so ridiculously difficult, there has to be a better way here.
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What is your unit, post info including MCU, joying means zip.
Yes, please post additional information. It looks like there should be an AXXESS module for your steering wheel controls. You have to indicate which trim option you have...base audio, standard audio or Bose. Here:
https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2008&Make=Nissan&Model=350Z&TrimOption[]=Base%20audio&TrimOption[]=BOSE&TrimOption[]=Standard%20Audio
You can update the trim on that page to be specific to your car. I took a quick look at the instructions and CAN-HI and CAN-LO so it looks like it's possible yours has a Canbus interface. If yours does, not sure if the AXXESS modules will help. If you don't need a canbus module for anything else, then you could possibly use the AXXESS module just for the steering wheel controls on the canbus interface.
I used an AXXESS module for my 2012 Kia Sorento as the amplifier and sound required it. It came with a steering wheel control module as well. Took a bit, but finally set it up as needed. The best thing you can get is a schematic for your car as it will show details about your steering wheel buttons and how they communicate / are wired to the head unit. Get the schematic and you can set up the buttons. Mine, however, does not have or require canbus.
marchnz said:
What is your unit, post info including MCU, joying means zip.
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Can't find this info anywhere. Not in the box, not in the Amazon order, not in any of the menus etc. I'm super surprised how difficult it is to find.
mastrv said:
Yes, please post additional information. It looks like there should be an AXXESS module for your steering wheel controls. You have to indicate which trim option you have...base audio, standard audio or Bose. Here:
https://axxessinterfaces.com/products?Year=2008&Make=Nissan&Model=350Z&TrimOption[]=Base%20audio&TrimOption[]=BOSE&TrimOption[]=Standard%20Audio
You can update the trim on that page to be specific to your car. I took a quick look at the instructions and CAN-HI and CAN-LO so it looks like it's possible yours has a Canbus interface. If yours does, not sure if the AXXESS modules will help. If you don't need a canbus module for anything else, then you could possibly use the AXXESS module just for the steering wheel controls on the canbus interface.
I used an AXXESS module for my 2012 Kia Sorento as the amplifier and sound required it. It came with a steering wheel control module as well. Took a bit, but finally set it up as needed. The best thing you can get is a schematic for your car as it will show details about your steering wheel buttons and how they communicate / are wired to the head unit. Get the schematic and you can set up the buttons. Mine, however, does not have or require canbus.
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Thanks for the info, but this is nearly impossible for me to understand. The tech docs for this AXXESS make zero sense at all. I don't see any of the items pointed out in the documents on my harness for either the car or the radio. They simply do not exist. I don't get how there are zero plug and play options for this. I don't see any options for Canbus for my car either. Whenever I Google this, I only find info related to LS1 swaps (meaning those who put an older Corvette motor into their 350Z). So frustrating.
Well, let's start with a couple of questions:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit...correct?
What is the Joying model number?
Do you have schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? These will definitively inform what wires to use. With the buttons on your steering wheel, like volume up and down, they went to your factory head unit to change the volume. This information either went directly to the factory head unit for it to interpret or went through the canbus where the factory radio also obtained this information
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? It's a small box with a lot of wires going in and out.
Whether or not you used or need a canbus module is another question. What kinds of other things did your old factory head unit do:
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in?
Rear view factory camera?
Rear factory radar?
If your factory head unit was fairly basic, then you may not need a canbus module. Please post a picture of your dash...maybe a couple with the gauges and another for the center stalk where the radio and the climate controls go...also a picture of the steering wheel buttons. These will help inform the likeliness of having or needing a canbus module.
Not sure if you know what a canbus module looks like. This page shows 5 different types/manufacturers of canbus modules:
CANBUS settings
cc2.teyes.ru
If you don't need a canbus module, you need to figure out which wires to use to connect to the Android head unit.
Thanks for your continued responses and help mastrv. I'll answer your questions as best I can:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit - Yes. I had an older Joying unit since 2016. The same harness can be used so it was a simple swap out after the not-so-simple task of pulling the entire center console away from the car.
What is the Joying model number? - I don't see this anywhere at all. Not in About Device, not in other menus, not on the box, not on the unit, not on the Amazon order, not on the Amazon product page. I cannot find this info whatsoever, and I have looked for it thoroughly.
Do you have the schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? No, and maybe at best. I don't know what I'm looking for here. There are two plugs that went to the factory CD player that go unused on the aftermarket harness. It's absolutely mindboggling there isn't an adapter for this.
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? I don't know, but I don't see anything resembling this in my car.
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in? Nope.
Rear view factory camera? Nope.
Rear factory radar? Nope.
As for the rest, I'll need to do so over the weekend. The entire cernter console has to be removed in this car to replace the head unit. This is why it's absolutely not possible for me to do things like solder inside the vehicle, and majority of these items are tucked away. How does AXXESS or PAC expect users to install this garbage? There isn't any space for it, and they label wiring that doesn't even exist in this car! Why not just made a single adapter and be done with it?
mastrv said:
Well, let's start with a couple of questions:
Sounds like you've already installed the head unit...correct?
What is the Joying model number?
Do you have schematics for your car? If not, can you get them? These will definitively inform what wires to use. With the buttons on your steering wheel, like volume up and down, they went to your factory head unit to change the volume. This information either went directly to the factory head unit for it to interpret or went through the canbus where the factory radio also obtained this information
Did the harness you used have a can bus module? It's a small box with a lot of wires going in and out.
Whether or not you used or need a canbus module is another question. What kinds of other things did your old factory head unit do:
Did you have bluetooth phone built-in?
Rear view factory camera?
Rear factory radar?
If your factory head unit was fairly basic, then you may not need a canbus module. Please post a picture of your dash...maybe a couple with the gauges and another for the center stalk where the radio and the climate controls go...also a picture of the steering wheel buttons. These will help inform the likeliness of having or needing a canbus module.
Not sure if you know what a canbus module looks like. This page shows 5 different types/manufacturers of canbus modules:
CANBUS settings
cc2.teyes.ru
If you don't need a canbus module, you need to figure out which wires to use to connect to the Android head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From the information you've provided, it's most likely that you don't need a canbus at all...especially since your old unit didn't have one.
The only thing you're concerned about is the steering wheel controls, right?
Only thing that needs to be determined is which wires to be used for the steering wheel controls.
OK. I think I've found some good info for your model. The info doesn't have 2008 but it's for a 2007 and I think the 2008 is the same. This has information about the wires to use from the factory harness that connected to the old stereo:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/360447d1390787670-finally-repurpose-your-steering-wheel-buttons-for-forced-induction-infiniti350zradiobuttonboxgeneralinstallguider1-7.pdf
It's for something called a Radio Button Box for racing applications. The install details the wires to use. On pages 2 and 3 it shows a piece of a schematic and identifies wires for Remote Control A, Remote Control B and Remote Control Ground. These would directly attach to Key1 and Key2 on the Android Head unit and any ground. On page 3 it also talks about how to test measure with a multi-meter to make sure these are the correct wires. The wires are in M39 connector:
Remote Control A is pin 22 and coloured R/G, Red and Green
Remote Control B is pin 23 and coloured OR, Orange
Remote Control Ground is pin 25 Y, Yellow
There is also a picture of the connector and it shows the wires from back and front. I think it shows the connector for an Infiniti G35, which is identical to the 350Z except for the wire colours.
I think you may not need any module and can connect those directly to the Android head unit...and then use the steering wheel control app to map them as you like.
FYI, the picture of the steering wheel controls includes a rocker for Volume up/down, buttons for Mode beside a Power button and a Prev/Next rocker.
FYI, the my350z site has much information and there is an Audio/Video section:
Audio & Video - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
Audio & Video - 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics
my350z.com
mastrv said:
From the information you've provided, it's most likely that you don't need a canbus at all...especially since your old unit didn't have one.
The only thing you're concerned about is the steering wheel controls, right?
Only thing that needs to be determined is which wires to be used for the steering wheel controls.
OK. I think I've found some good info for your model. The info doesn't have 2008 but it's for a 2007 and I think the 2008 is the same. This has information about the wires to use from the factory harness that connected to the old stereo:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/forced-induction/360447d1390787670-finally-repurpose-your-steering-wheel-buttons-for-forced-induction-infiniti350zradiobuttonboxgeneralinstallguider1-7.pdf
It's for something called a Radio Button Box for racing applications. The install details the wires to use. On pages 2 and 3 it shows a piece of a schematic and identifies wires for Remote Control A, Remote Control B and Remote Control Ground. These would directly attach to Key1 and Key2 on the Android Head unit and any ground. On page 3 it also talks about how to test measure with a multi-meter to make sure these are the correct wires. The wires are in M39 connector:
Remote Control A is pin 22 and coloured R/G, Red and Green
Remote Control B is pin 23 and coloured OR, Orange
Remote Control Ground is pin 25 Y, Yellow
There is also a picture of the connector and it shows the wires from back and front. I think it shows the connector for an Infiniti G35, which is identical to the 350Z except for the wire colours.
I think you may not need any module and can connect those directly to the Android head unit...and then use the steering wheel control app to map them as you like.
FYI, the picture of the steering wheel controls includes a rocker for Volume up/down, buttons for Mode beside a Power button and a Prev/Next rocker.
FYI, the my350z site has much information and there is an Audio/Video section:
Audio & Video - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion
Audio & Video - 350Z Mobile entertainment and other electronics
my350z.com
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Click to collapse
Thanks again mastvr! Still really confused on this. So, my harness to the Joying unit has a pink Key 1 and brown Key 2 wires. What I don't get here is how I'm connecting to the car here. Soldering is pretty much off the table. I'm also very leary of cutting anything factory in the vehicle, although I guess if I HAVE to, maybe I would. My apprehension here is that if I cut something, and it's wrong, I'm going to end up with a hacked up factory harness that I neither have the skills, space, equipment or otherwise know-how to fix. That's why I sincerely wish there was something I could just adapt in a plug-and-play fashion. So completely frustrated with this.
If you don't have a connector for the plug in the link I provided, you can always use a t-tap connector so you don't have to cut it...or maybe there's some module you can use.
Anyway, there's enough info to make sure those are the correct wires. So, good luck with the rest.