Hi professionals. Thanks for reading my plea for help. I have a 2005 SLK 200 R171. I recently decided to change my player from the usual audio 20 with cd changer to this Erisin Android PX5 head unit i got off aliexpress. When i received it, i noticed that the harness supplied with the player did not fit my car. Hence i opted to buy a Dynavin harness which by pictures the harness fitted my original plug but the cable attaching to my headunit did not. So i did my rewiring myself. Followed the usual colour and power and got the headunit powered up. However i noticed the can bus is fed with one constant wire, one ground wire, and both the can high and can low cables from the car. And there are 3 cables that goes from the canbus unit to the headunit i.e. brown for reverse, red for acc, orange for illumination. I have 2 more wires with a small harness (White and white/black stripe wire) that does not have an input to anywhere (I believe that Is the canbus high and low to the headunit) and a blue wire. On my headunit harness, according to the wiring diagram attached with the player, there is only one wire going to the can low socket and the can high is empty. Hence i attached my can low from the headunit to a blue wire from the canbus and noticed my steering wheel controls work (volume buttons and +/- track). However, the display on my dash says audio off. Also my rear view camera goes on and off (I looped the trigger wire to the reverse brown wire that exits the canbus and goes to the headunit reverse). I will try an attach a video. Does anyone know if i have made a mistake in the wiring? And does anyone have a wiring diagram for the can bus decoder (brown semi transparent box)?
Any help is very very much appreciated. Thanks tonnes.
My issue link
vimeo dot com slash 462084336
( sorry wasnt allowed to post a link)
Hello Haven,
Did you ever receive an answer? I am having a similar issue. I bought an android head unit with can bus decoder. Almost all the wiring harnesses were wrong and I had to rewire myself. the chinese supplier did not provide any wiring diagrams or pinouts, (claims they do not have any). I finally got my reverse camera, sound, and steering wheel controls working. (all come directly into head unit. The can bus decoder does not seem to be connected to the can H and Can L from the vehicle. I have the same 3 wires from can bus decoder box to android head unit. I am certain based on the other wire harnesses received that the wiring from car to can bus decoder is wrong. Can you tell me what two pins the Can H and Can L are fed to on your decoder box?
Related
Hello
I've searched and tried plenty, and maybe this was covered but I can't find anything..
I recently bought a Klyde unit for my 2013 Hyundai sonata with dimension stereo and stock amplifier..
The wiring seemed simple enough, but I cannot get any sound through my speakers.
I did quite a bit of troubleshooting and even got a replacement canbus decoder from the seller but still nothing..
Is there a simple solution that someone else knows or should I just return the thing and get a different one..
Thanks a million I'm stumped
Edit: the rca cables have sound coming out but I'm trying to keep the stock amplifier and speakers..
The spdif signal going to the canbus "amp controller" box gets 12v power, I get about 200 to 250mv signal into it but 10mv going out to the car's harness
Is there a way to "enable" the amp controller like the Metra boxes?
Sent from my SM-N900W8
Anyone?
I have more pics if it helps
Thanks again
Bought a Metra amp interface and now it works
I am wondering if this might be how to solve my problem. This is the post I made on the large android head unit thread, do you think this metra amp interface would solve this for my lancer also?
if so which did you get and where, I think you have the same head unit I have.
"I just received my unit thursday I had it installed friday, but it was not giving any audio signal and the amp wasn't being turned on. They tried to manually turn on the amp, but there was still no audio coming through.
so I am wondering if there is anything I can do to troubleshoot it myself while waiting for a reply from the seller. There is a few notable things that might be the problem but I figured I would ask here to check before I start.
First there is a red wire that looks like it was cut right near the canbus unit it came this way out of the box, the installer said it had power to it, I am wondering if it's supposed to be cut or if reconnecting it could help, also there is a blue wire on the harness that is not connected into the harness also. will attach pictures. (or not because I am not allowed hopefully you can figure out how to see them below...)
red wire ------- pasteboard dot co/MO1wkXJ.jpg
blue wire ------- pasteboard dot co/MO6kqKs.jpg
back of unit ---- pasteboard dot co/MO9x1eI.jpg"
So what Metra Interface Kit...
I know this is an old thread but I have a 2014 Sonata Limited w/ Dimension Amp and android head unit doesn't output audio either with the Amp controller box or spdif box. I believe these boxes that came with it are not working properly. Please inform me of what kit I need to purchase.
Seeing reports...
I'm seeing reports the the hybl-04 is the Metra kit that you have ended up using. Is this correct?
Hi all!
I have just installed a Joying JUL128N2 in my 2007 Alfa Romeo 159.
Overall, I am happy with this unit.
I have read through most of the posts regarding this unit, and that has helped me to solve a lot of issues in the last 3 days. For that, I thank this community!
Anyway, I still haven´t hook up the canbus box to enable my steering wheel controls. I have the following question:
Installation
I have purchased an ISO wiring adapter kit for my car (CTSAR002.2), which includes a canbus decoder box connected inline, (by a plug in one end of the box) between the car side of the wiring and the headunit side. It seems that wires go in and out from this same plug (at least 3 come out and are free)
There is another plug in the opposite end of the box that should be used to connect to specific radio brands. I received a universal version of that cable (CTMULTILEAD.2), which has 3 wires and a 3.5mm jack plug.
Question: Do I need to use the “multilead” patch, or should I use the 3 free wires coming from the front part on the main harness?
In any case, what goes where?
The mentioned cables for reference:
http://www.connects2.co.uk/Product/ProductItem/CTSAR002.2
http://www.connects2.co.uk/Product/ProductItem/CTMULTILEAD.2
Furthermore: is it possible for other car brands, other than VAG group, to send more information to the HU, such as parking assist and other car info?
Thanks very much!
Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).
surfer63 said:
Hi,
I finally bought this universal SWC unit from aliexpress: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Car-...574.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f4f4c4d3Pq2pc
I repeated this Boyka video, so I'm pretty sure that I did everything correct.
My unit originally has a CANbus as I have a Skoda.
I removed the CANbus when I got the unit (because I don't want it anyway) , connected it again 2 months ago (let's give it a shot), and now for the SWC I removed it again (as I know the CANbus "takes over" when it comes to SWC).
I disconnected the brown key1, the pink key2 and the GND wire from the little CANbus adapter connector.
From the the SQC receiving box to the Joying, I connected ACC to ACC, key1 to brown, key2 to pink, GND to GND.
In the steering wheel screen nothing works when I push buttons on the small unit or on the screen, be it long or short. The 6 fields in the top of the screen only quickly alternate between 254-255 (see attached IMG_20181020_145152172.jpg).
So then I connected my multimeter (set on 20V) as well. I connected the RED additionally to the key1 and the BLACK additionally to the GND.
I now read 5.3V source voltage. When I push buttons to close the loop, the voltage drops for a number of keys to, for example, 0.8V or 1.3V or 2.8V. Some buttons don't react.
When I connect the RED additionally to the key2, the source voltage is again 5.3V. Now the other keys show values like 1.3V or 2.8V when pressed.
Obviously the little universal unit works and it obviously needs both key1 and key2 wires.
As said, I have the CANbus disconnected and in the CARsettings I have set the CANbus settings to NULL.
What is wrong, or what am I doing wrong?
(Note: I repeated this on my Sofia unit with the exact same results: zero, that is).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought one of these for my Joying Sofia system, one made for VWs, as I have a Passat. I had the exact same experience as you, right down to measuring the voltages and seeing them change.
Step back to my previous sysyem, an Xtrons that I bought a universal steering wheel mounted wireless controller, and it worked flawlessly. The Xtrons was also made specifically fow VWs, but the generic controller worked fine. I tried it with the VW-centric Joying Sofia and went through the testing discussed previously.
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.
markmorto said:
I contacted Joying Support and was told that the system itself would only respond to the resistance from the VW Can Bus and unless I had that I was out if luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case? Because I first disconnected the brown/pink from the Joying CANbus connector and also removed the entire JY CANbus itself.
Anyway, I will check again. I thought that the brown and pink key1 and key2 wires were leading, but obviously that's not true.
The green (CAN/L) and black/green(CAN/H) wire coming from the Skoda (in my case) ISO adapter are leading into the JY CAN bus. The pink/brown then come again from the JY CANbus and lead to the unit.
So I will try to connect the key1/key2 wires to the green and black/green wire. But maybe I need to ground the CAN/L wire and connect one or both key1/key2 wires to the CAN/H wire.
(Although in one of the Joying diagrams, the green and green/black are for the Left Rear speaker, but that does not comply with my Skoda ISO adapter. confusing.)
Of course it can also mean that the JY CANbus expects a digital CANbus signal instead of an analog resistive signal, in which case it will not work at all, not without an analog to digital converter at least.
To be continued.
surfer63 said:
Thanks for your reply.
Did Joying say anything about when you remove the CAN bus adapter? Should it somehow work in that case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.
markmorto said:
The way they made it sound, the stereo itself only responded to CAN bus signals. The reply was a little strange in that it mentioned 'resistor values that match original VW'. I don't know if other head units have this problem, but am a little frustrated that I lost this functionality that I had with a "cheaper" Chinese head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.
surfer63 said:
It is also very weird.
I checked the Boyka video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odnEb-1b310) where he is in a VW, using a Joying unit with a CAN bus where he simply soldered/connected the key1/key2 wires to the brown and pink. Why does that work? It is a Sofia like you have and like I still have on the bench currently doing my tests on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had some more mail exchange with Joying. The VW models have a different motherboard with different connections. The unit in the video is actually a universal model just connected to display the working of a universal SWC with a universal Joying unit.
So maybe I should try to use some "universal analog/CAN-bus steering wheel converter" and connect the SWC to the converter, and then connect the converter to the CAN/H, CAN/L connectors of the Joying ISO adapter.
But I'm already tired of it. I wanted a simple way to try and maybe do some test work for XFytTweaker.
Hello all!
I've got a Joying Octo-core 4Gb/32Gb 8.1 SC9853i unit installed in my 2005 Toyota Prius (w/nav and jbl sound.). I'm very pleased with the main functions of the unit, but I'm having a couple of issues. I've been messaging Joying about it. They're trying to help, but I'm getting the impression they aren't quite tracking me.
The first issue is with the steering wheel controls. My car has the three wire controls which are attached to key1, key2, and ground on the Joying supplied Toyota harness. I have double, triple, and quadruple checked these wires on both sides of each connector. Using my multi-meter, I can see changes in resistance upon button presses when checking from key1 to ground, and different buttons from key2 to ground, exactly as expected. I can see this happening all the way to the iso plug that goes to the back of the head unit. The signal is definitely getting to the unit.
When I go into the control software, though, absolutely nothing happens when I try to program buttons. There is a batch of numbers across the top that are supposed to change according to resistance, but they are quite stubbornly sitting at 255.
If my phone was exhibiting squirrelly behavior like this, I'd re-flash it and start fresh. Extending this concept to the head unit, I found Joying's update page and pulled a fresh copy of the firmware, carefully checking the version for my head unit. This one is the 4.3 release. It appeared to flash successfully, but there was no change in the SWC functions. I also tried the 3.29 release to no avail. I ended up sticking with that one for now, as notifications don't work on the newer release. I also rooted it with Magisk. That didn't change anything, not did I expect it to.
I'm also having difficulty with my reverse camera. My car did not have one to start with, but I added one a very long time ago using a CanView system (a low-production aftermarket mini computer that injected video via the navigation feed.) I've removed all of that except the camera itself, which is a simple thing that produces video on a composite RCA plug, which I've plugged in to the rev-video jack on the head unit. It completely refuses to switch to the reverse video.
My harness has a can-bus decoder which I thought would pick up reverse, but I'm starting to think it only enables the jbl amplifier. So, I grabbed a reverse wire from the tail light and connected it to the appropriate wire in the harness. It still won't switch. I even tried using an always-hot to test the reverse and it wouldn't switch. I repeated this with a completely different RCA camera, just in case the problem was with the installed one. No dice.
I'm at a loss for what to do to troubleshoot now. Anybody have an idea?
cannot say anything about SWC as i have different HU.
About reverse camera - can you post the picture of your harness? Usually HU has the wire marked as "BACK CAM" or "REV CAM" or "REAR CAM" or similar, and the +Vcc (or GND) on this cable controls the switching to reverse camera view. Some HUs have switchable setting to detect either +Vcc or GND on this cable - pls check this also (it is in the car settings in a part protected with password).
Hello fellow Prius NHW20 owner! I have just installed a SC9853i based Android 8.1 unit (can't post link yet, search for Nuoweida 9853 solution). My steering wheel control works fine. I connected a 68 Ohm resister between pins 9 and 10 of the CN703 port. I connected SW1 (pin 7) and SW2 (pin 8) and GND (pin 6) to the corresponding wires of the head unit. I used the Toyota Steering Wheel harness that I got from ebay.
I still haven't installed the rear camera. Let me know if you have any questions.
Hello, I recently got a radio and I am trying to figure out the wiring before I proceed with the install.
I have a harness that came with a radio, but I know the backup camera requires a step down to 6v, so I got a Toyota 24 pin connector with stepdown to 6v.
I realized I did not get a pass through version of the harness, so I am trying to retrofit this into the harness that came with the android radio. I do not have the harness in my hand yet as I am still waiting for it, but I believe some of the wires from the image above are already occupied by the android radio's harness. I traced the radio's harness and noticed the coinciding wires goes to a canbus decode, so should I just split and add this camera adapter's wire onto the wire to avoid removing any functionality that requires canbus?
I have an OEM USB retention adapter, but noticed that I do not have an OEM 3.5mm aux retention adapter. Waiting for an adapter is going to take forever as I live in Canada and shopping in the USA would be prohibitively expensive in terms of shipping. How would I approach this?
I found diagrams to Toyota's 28 pin wiring. Please google an image if you can, because I am too new to post photos.
Both of these photos are pretty similar for pin 11,25,26,27,28. Does pinning 11 and 25 together with a 2.7K resistor and then pinning 26, 27 and 28 to red and white RCA plugs to connect to the android head unit's RCA plugs sound right for retaining OEM Aux?
Finally, does anyone know if most general electronic stores have the correct pins to plug into these harness plugs?
Thank you
Hi, I recently bought the same radio, the canbus does not work for me, the steering wheel controls do not go, I installed the camera but I cannot find the reverse pin in the oem connectors because by powering the CAM it works,