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I killed my phone's usb connector. HELP!!!

Hi!
I made big big big mistake. I thought I am able to make the inductive mod and solder it directly to the usb connector of the phone. Big fail! Dumb me...
First everything was working but then I wanted more and tried to resolder the new cable to the very small VCC pin of the usb connector. Puff and nearly the complete pad for USB VCC disappeared :-(. Seems I soldered to hot or to long.
I now have a phone which I can't charge any more. Right now I'm on 30% battery so I don't have much time...
I think there are some possibilities:
1st:
Find out where the USB VCC pin goes and solder a cable from there. Right now I had no luck and I can't measure with a ohm-meter to find an other pad with the same net. I also have no board layout from the pcb. Maybe someone of you can help with measuring or pcb data?
2nd:
I find a temporary solution by charging the battery (i have to of them) manual with a lab power supply and some resistor? Does anybody know the max ampere load for the battery of the SGS? Any ideas for charging voltage and series-resistor value?
3rd:
Is there a way to get a working main pcb for the GT-I9000? Maybe from a phone with a defect display? This shouldn't cost too much since I am also thinking about a new model.
4th:
Will it blend? Kaboom? Burn baby burn? ...
Hope I can get help with this!

Well you need a hardware engineer to answer you and here youll rarely find one.
hit thankxx if i helped. sent from my mind through telepathy (ya its possible)!

Purchase another battery (have at least 2) and an external battery charger.

upichie said:
Purchase another battery (have at least 2) and an external battery charger.
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I already have 2 batteries. Where do I get such a "external battery charger"? Most of them seems to use usb connectors and this is broken on my phone.

Search for it on ebay and if ypu cant find one search for it on google.
hit thankxx if i helped. sent from my mind through telepathy (ya its possible)!

BHuvan goyal said:
Search for it on ebay and if ypu cant find one search for it on google.
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Click to collapse
For example, one of these.
(Note: I merely searched "i9000 battery charger" and sorted by price. I in no way recommend, have tested, or endorse the usefulness of the previously linked to product.) ...

fpdragon said:
...
2nd:
I find a temporary solution by charging the battery (i have to of them) manual with a lab power supply and some resistor? Does anybody know the max ampere load for the battery of the SGS? Any ideas for charging voltage and series-resistor value?
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it is dangerous but possible:
use a precision voltage source of
4.195 V +- 10mV
and a series resistor of 2.2Ohm, 1%, 1/2W
if your batt is down to 3.3V it will start charging with about 400mA and goes up to 4.195 V ( will need several hours, you can charge it over night)
never charge to a voltage above 4.210V !!! your LiIon batt will die !!!
best solution is: go and buy an external charger with a battery (approx. 12-19€ with shipping) on ebay
look for a polarcell 1800mAh batt, like this one
http://goo.gl/Cun7U
it's worth the money, i've bought one and use it since two weeks and am very pleased with it.
But be careful, there are some other batterys from hongkong, which also claim 1800mAh, but they don't have it, i had one too and it measured only 1300mAh.

tiwag said:
it is dangerous but possible:
use a precision voltage source of
4.195 V +- 10mV
and a series resistor of 2.2Ohm, 1%, 1/2W
if your batt is down to 3.3V it will start charging with about 400mA and goes up to 4.195 V ( will need several hours, you can charge it over night)
never charge to a voltage above 4.210V !!! your LiIon batt will die !!!
best solution is: go and buy an external charger with a battery (approx. 12-19€ with shipping) on ebay
look for a polarcell 1800mAh batt, like this one
http://goo.gl/Cun7U
it's worth the money, i've bought one and use it since two weeks and am very pleased with it.
But be careful, there are some other batterys from hongkong, which also claim 1800mAh, but they don't have it, i had one too and it measured only 1300mAh.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the detailed infos.
I already have one of these 1800mAh batteries and my subjective impression was good. The second battery I have is the original one.
I will buy one of these charging adapters. Until it is coming I was thinking about using a labratory power supply with your mentioned 2,2Ohm Resistor and with a Ampere limitation of 400mA. Should be no risk, isn't it? Then slowly rise the voltage until I get the current of about 300mA.
The thing is... I have no spare phone and I really would need it on Monday.

I configured the power supply to 4,21V at 400mA max (current delimiter).
It startet at about 4V and I had a constant 400mA load. After about one hour the current delimiter switched off and I now have stable 4,21V. The current lowers slowly.
I think this should be a save charging procedure?

Wireless charging

Has anyone looked at the following product for wireless charging (ala Powermat)?
It doesn't look like it outputs a lot of power, but for overnight / sitting on the work desk type of charging, it may be adequate.
www dot seeedstudio dot com/depot/wireless-power-supply-p-701.html
Would be interesting to see if it could be nicely integrated into a phone cover.
I think I will order one to play with even though I am not a developer or a hacker or anything like that!

I've seen charging coils like that hacked into existing devices. There are also, on the horizon, self contained batteries that have the inductive charging built in - upgrade any device to wireless charging! (any device with enough volume to justify making such a battery, anyway)

This definitely could work quiet well for that sort of application. I think it is a bit larger than you would hope but if you put a usb connector on the end I think it would work really well.

Yap, but there are limitations.
Loss of energy
Less efficiency
Low amp ratings
Interference
Bulky.
Goods are
Wireless
No need of conectors that opens to external world( for devices with built in coils)
No connector problems like damaged port,loose contacts etc.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using xda premium

giritrobbins said:
This definitely could work quiet well for that sort of application. I think it is a bit larger than you would hope but if you put a usb connector on the end I think it would work really well.
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Click to collapse
That is the $64 problem! Trying to get USB connectors without the need to butcher an existing USB cable. Ideally, I would like to have a double ended USB connector - a male microUSB to plug into the phone, and a female micro or mini USB on the other end - to allow a USB cable connection between the phone or external charger. I know that I could buy from Digikey a male micro USB connector, and a female connector. But these connectors do not come with casings, so any use of them probably wouldn't look pretty without many hours of thought and effort.
I am assuming (without having this charger in my hands with the specifications) that I would probably need to have one or more diodes in-line with the receiver wires to stop external source current entering the receiver and possibly damaging it.
I haven't read up on Li-Ion cell phone batteries and how to keep them efficient. So I don't know whether these batteries can live long term on low current charging, or whether they would need higher current (as from manufacturer provided chargers) to provide efficient long term output.

Induction charging is being used in several applications already, like WII remotes and such. The problem is, as stated above ^^^^ I'm not really sure how lithium ion batteries stand up so such charging, (almost trickle). I know that the batteries used in Wii remotes are Nickel Hydride though.

DMPinBC said:
That is the $64 problem! Trying to get USB connectors without the need to butcher an existing USB cable. Ideally, I would like to have a double ended USB connector - a male microUSB to plug into the phone, and a female micro or mini USB on the other end - to allow a USB cable connection between the phone or external charger. I know that I could buy from Digikey a male micro USB connector, and a female connector. But these connectors do not come with casings, so any use of them probably wouldn't look pretty without many hours of thought and effort.
I am assuming (without having this charger in my hands with the specifications) that I would probably need to have one or more diodes in-line with the receiver wires to stop external source current entering the receiver and possibly damaging it.
I haven't read up on Li-Ion cell phone batteries and how to keep them efficient. So I don't know whether these batteries can live long term on low current charging, or whether they would need higher current (as from manufacturer provided chargers) to provide efficient long term output.
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Click to collapse
I have heard rumours of the device killing batteries. It would be interesting to see how much of the power actually gets to the unit. The wireless power supply you linked in your OP shows a rating of 300-400 mA. That means the average battery would take 3-4 hours to charge from dead if all that power was indeed making it's way to the battery. Not really a trickle charge is all that power makes it to the battery.

All lithium ion battery assemblies have built in circuitry to prevent overcharging, overheating, and possible explosion/fire. The charge circuitry will turn off when fully charged and there's no penalty for topping off a LIon battery without discharging. Hacking a USB cable isn't all that complicated although may not be pretty depending on how well it's soldered together. There will always be a lump in the middle of the cable where the connections are made but you could use sleeving to hide it.

I tried an OEM non branded wireless charger, and after 6 hours of charging, my iphone's battery only increased around 20%...

Anyone tested this on Desire HD?

Anyone know if this will work/has tested on a Samsung Vibrant? Thanks.

I think this technology is still young, probably in 2/3 years it will be improved in its energy losses...

gebedias said:
I think this technology is still young, probably in 2/3 years it will be improved in its energy losses...
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Click to collapse
I don't think time is going to make it more efficient. I think the trend in industry right now (specifically the WPC) is to define a standard, places where you would use wireless power are places where there is plenty of power.
There are a bunch of different companies that make wireless power solutions. I think that the best would be to hack together a QI compliant receiver to the USB port on your phone and then use any QI compliant mat for the transmitter.

very strange battery problem no awnsers any where

Hi all
I have brought a sunny cube v7 (cheap tablet) and upon receiving this morning I went ahead and left it to charge for a few hours. When I came back it was fully charged so unplugged it imediatly powered off. I cracked it open and the battery it self is reading about 4v but after the protection circuit its reading about 2, the tablet itself is saying its fully charged but it won't turn on without charger . tried looking everywhere but all I could read was about not charging or a defunct battery. Any help is appreciated

Just give it back if it's under warranty?
Sent from my ST26i using xda premium

Thats the problem it wa from china so by the time i pay for shipping back there i might as well buy another one, it was only £40

Well, you seem to know about the protection circuit.
They can vary in coverage from over-discharge, over-charge and over-current.
Some of them will actually latch up once activated.
If you battery is reading 4 V there is no reason for the protection to be activated.
You can try bypassing the protection circuit.
That's living a bit dangerously, both as to your health and the health of the battery.
Still, as a proof of principle you could do it carefully.
You can buy a similar battery protection module on eBay for a couple of bucks.

Renate NST said:
Well, you seem to know about the protection circuit.
They can vary in coverage from over-discharge, over-charge and over-current.
Some of them will actually latch up once activated.
If you battery is reading 4 V there is no reason for the protection to be activated.
You can try bypassing the protection circuit.
That's living a bit dangerously, both as to your health and the health of the battery.
Still, as a proof of principle you could do it carefully.
You can buy a similar battery protection module on eBay for a couple of bucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, I work as an electrical engineer repairing phones for insurance companies so i sort of know what im on about but never had this problem before and nobody at my work has faced it so thats a dead end. all I know about it is what ive read, I havent come across any information about this problem online. Do you know if i can just buy a similar protection circuit, or can I buy a bigger size battery (both in size and capacity) and will it still charge fully? thanks for the help!
Edit:
will my tablet tell me how charged the battery is if I remove the protection circuit?
2nd Edit, what controls the voltage to the battery, the circuit on the mother board or the protection circuit, as i understand it the protectionis only there in case the mobo gets a short, in other words the mobo says "im not taking any more voltage from you battery" then proceeds to shut down, is this the case? also with charging is it the mobo that starts the trickle charge +90% batt or isit the protection circuit, any help is greatly appreciated just want to get this sorted

The protection circuit is completely invisible and inactive except in cases of failure.
Charging circuits on the main board control conditioning, charging, terminating.
Determining percentage battery charge is a bit of voodoo based on voltage, temperature and estimated current load.
I don't know if any device (some? all?) are using Hall effect current sensors to measure instead of estimating.
I would think that a slightly bigger battery would not be a problem.
A smaller battery would not like getting charged too fast.

Replacing both the battery and the protective circuit shouldn't really be a problem. Are you measuring the voltage on the battery before/after the protective circuit - under load though? A battery without a load will always show a higher voltage than when "put to work". The protecive circuit itself does put a microscopic load on the battery, but I'm not sure if its enough for a decent load voltage read. if you have an old computer fan (probably won't go around if sub-5 volts, but should tolerate load long enough for a read) or something else that will "just work" off a 3.7v supply, I'd suggest you try that before shopping for parts.
Keep in mind, if buying a new protective circuit - it should be rated to comply with your tablet. Overcharge and overdischarge voltages are fairly similar across the board - but you'll want to look at Overcharge and overdischarge currents. Make sure these do not crash with the normal operational currents of the tablet. If the tablet for example, consume up to 2 amps under heavy load - you cannot use a protective circuit with an overdischarge current rating of less than 2 amps. If you did, it would trigger the protective circuit under normal (heavy) use. Same for overcharge current - make sure it is rated with a reasonable margin above what the stock charger delivers - otherwise the stock charger will pop the circuit.
I'd also advice getting one that is designed for the number of cells the current (or new) battery "pack" will be composed of. It will make putting it together much more simple and tidy.

Power on phone without battery

Anyone been able to turn on this phone and run it without a battery with permanent power?

Short answer: not possible.
Longer answer: You would need a pretty hefty engineering brain to figure this out, as the circuitry of the daughter board detects and adjusts the mainboards voltages and such, based on the battery output. When battery output is 0, meaning dead/removed battery, the daughter board doesn't supply voltages to the mainboard.
Now, you could replace the battery with a supercapacitor, but you'd need to have a pretty big one to output the current of a fully charged battery of the 6P - something around the 10kf mark, which IIRC from my university days, is roughly the size of 2 D-cell batteries or so. You'd then need to wire this all in, and even if you made it neat and 3D printed a new back, you went from a slim phone to a small brick. You'd also still need to provide current to charge the super capacitor, which doesn't use normal voltages like the charger and daughterboard can output, so you'd need to add in a voltage regulator board, wire that to the daughterboard, let the DB send current to the mainboard, and since this all outputs a lot of heat, now you run into a serious heating / cooling problem. Add a fan, a larger super capacitor to power said fan, and well, you now have something that looks like a bomb lol.
To touch further on the heat problem - my dash camera has a 10kf SC in it that I wired in instead of the crappy NiCad battery it came with. It was hot enough to keep the snow melted through the windshield on its own with 12v 1a current - roughly 20% of the current the wall charger of the 6p provides. It didn't keep the whole windshield free, rather, a spot large enough to let the camera do its thing without issue.

Thanks Wiltron for your reply. Doesn't seem worth it for me to go through that much trouble to be honest, besides, having something in your car that looks like a bomb these days will get me more attention than I want. I do have to say that I'm able to power the phone with just the charger connected, but up to a certain point, when the cpu spikes while booting it runs short of power and shuts off. Same thing when I'm fully booted into android, I disconnect the battery and it will stay running up to the point where I start some app or even just turn the phone on its side and the phone just goes dark. I'm thinking that the daughterboard does provide power to the motherboard without a battery, but just not enough. Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?

cbgreen said:
Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
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It can provide as much current as normal operations permit, however just make sure the cable and charger are official and supported, like Benson certified cables and a decent quality car charger like Anker.
Don't go crazy with the 50amp 120v brick chargers for cars, but don't grab the cheap ass gas station 0.5a 5v 4 for $10 special either
Tronsmart has good ones - I use one personally that has the certified USB C cable built into it.. minimal issues other than the thing does get hot

Nook OG Running on Charger

I have two original nook first editions, both had puffy batteries, and would not charge or turn on, I took out the batteries, but was wondering if I can run them off of their chargers. Would be willing to root or run new software, I just want to see them run again... thanks!

farmerstele3 said:
I took out the batteries, but was wondering if I can run them off of their chargers.
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Maybe. There's a couple of problems here.
The first is simply that the USB charging circuit usually can't deliver the peak current required by the device.
Next is the fact that the battery check is probably in different places in the code.
It's easier to pretend that you have a battery.
That means that you need a 4V to 4.3V supply connected in where the battery was.
Depending on how many wires go to the battery pack there may be temperature sensors or ID resistors.
You need to keep the old ones or implement new ones.
I've got half a dozen devices that have been so modified.
How many wires/colors does the battery connector have? Photo would be appreciated.
You need to either reuse the little BMS circuit board or measure it and implement it.
Here's a photo of my brand new Walmart Onn8 tablet that is running off a 4V supply

Renate said:
Maybe. There's a couple of problems here.
The first is simply that the USB charging circuit usually can't deliver the peak current required by the device.
Next is the fact that the battery check is probably in different places in the code.
It's easier to pretend that you have a battery.
That means that you need a 4V to 4.3V supply connected in where the battery was.
Depending on how many wires go to the battery pack there may be temperature sensors or ID resistors.
You need to keep the old ones or implement new ones.
I've got half a dozen devices that have been so modified.
How many wires/colors does the battery connector have? Photo would be appreciated.
You need to either reuse the little BMS circuit board or measure it and implement it.
Here's a photo of my brand new Walmart Onn8 tablet that is running off a 4V supply
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll have to rip it apart again, so it will be a while.