Has anyone looked at the following product for wireless charging (ala Powermat)?
It doesn't look like it outputs a lot of power, but for overnight / sitting on the work desk type of charging, it may be adequate.
www dot seeedstudio dot com/depot/wireless-power-supply-p-701.html
Would be interesting to see if it could be nicely integrated into a phone cover.
I think I will order one to play with even though I am not a developer or a hacker or anything like that!
I've seen charging coils like that hacked into existing devices. There are also, on the horizon, self contained batteries that have the inductive charging built in - upgrade any device to wireless charging! (any device with enough volume to justify making such a battery, anyway)
This definitely could work quiet well for that sort of application. I think it is a bit larger than you would hope but if you put a usb connector on the end I think it would work really well.
Yap, but there are limitations.
Loss of energy
Less efficiency
Low amp ratings
Interference
Bulky.
Goods are
Wireless
No need of conectors that opens to external world( for devices with built in coils)
No connector problems like damaged port,loose contacts etc.
Sent from my HTC HD2 using xda premium
giritrobbins said:
This definitely could work quiet well for that sort of application. I think it is a bit larger than you would hope but if you put a usb connector on the end I think it would work really well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is the $64 problem! Trying to get USB connectors without the need to butcher an existing USB cable. Ideally, I would like to have a double ended USB connector - a male microUSB to plug into the phone, and a female micro or mini USB on the other end - to allow a USB cable connection between the phone or external charger. I know that I could buy from Digikey a male micro USB connector, and a female connector. But these connectors do not come with casings, so any use of them probably wouldn't look pretty without many hours of thought and effort.
I am assuming (without having this charger in my hands with the specifications) that I would probably need to have one or more diodes in-line with the receiver wires to stop external source current entering the receiver and possibly damaging it.
I haven't read up on Li-Ion cell phone batteries and how to keep them efficient. So I don't know whether these batteries can live long term on low current charging, or whether they would need higher current (as from manufacturer provided chargers) to provide efficient long term output.
Induction charging is being used in several applications already, like WII remotes and such. The problem is, as stated above ^^^^ I'm not really sure how lithium ion batteries stand up so such charging, (almost trickle). I know that the batteries used in Wii remotes are Nickel Hydride though.
DMPinBC said:
That is the $64 problem! Trying to get USB connectors without the need to butcher an existing USB cable. Ideally, I would like to have a double ended USB connector - a male microUSB to plug into the phone, and a female micro or mini USB on the other end - to allow a USB cable connection between the phone or external charger. I know that I could buy from Digikey a male micro USB connector, and a female connector. But these connectors do not come with casings, so any use of them probably wouldn't look pretty without many hours of thought and effort.
I am assuming (without having this charger in my hands with the specifications) that I would probably need to have one or more diodes in-line with the receiver wires to stop external source current entering the receiver and possibly damaging it.
I haven't read up on Li-Ion cell phone batteries and how to keep them efficient. So I don't know whether these batteries can live long term on low current charging, or whether they would need higher current (as from manufacturer provided chargers) to provide efficient long term output.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have heard rumours of the device killing batteries. It would be interesting to see how much of the power actually gets to the unit. The wireless power supply you linked in your OP shows a rating of 300-400 mA. That means the average battery would take 3-4 hours to charge from dead if all that power was indeed making it's way to the battery. Not really a trickle charge is all that power makes it to the battery.
All lithium ion battery assemblies have built in circuitry to prevent overcharging, overheating, and possible explosion/fire. The charge circuitry will turn off when fully charged and there's no penalty for topping off a LIon battery without discharging. Hacking a USB cable isn't all that complicated although may not be pretty depending on how well it's soldered together. There will always be a lump in the middle of the cable where the connections are made but you could use sleeving to hide it.
I tried an OEM non branded wireless charger, and after 6 hours of charging, my iphone's battery only increased around 20%...
Anyone tested this on Desire HD?
Anyone know if this will work/has tested on a Samsung Vibrant? Thanks.
I think this technology is still young, probably in 2/3 years it will be improved in its energy losses...
gebedias said:
I think this technology is still young, probably in 2/3 years it will be improved in its energy losses...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think time is going to make it more efficient. I think the trend in industry right now (specifically the WPC) is to define a standard, places where you would use wireless power are places where there is plenty of power.
There are a bunch of different companies that make wireless power solutions. I think that the best would be to hack together a QI compliant receiver to the USB port on your phone and then use any QI compliant mat for the transmitter.
Related
I use my old Motorola mini-USB supplies and love 'em but would like something with more juice than the ~800mA they put out. Any suggestions? I can occasionally find a folding-plug power supply but then the max current is never specified
TIA,
Richard
Closest I know of is Boxwave's VersaCharger Pro which supplies 1 Amp, which I've found sufficient for charging my Tytn II.
3waygeek said:
Closest I know of is Boxwave's VersaCharger Pro which supplies 1 Amp, which I've found sufficient for charging my Tytn II.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that one is interesting - a little bulkier than I'd prefer. I have to do some testing, but I recently discovered my ~800mA Moto charger won't charge my APC USB battery when it's completely discharged. I've not noticed any issues with my Hermes or Kaiser, but I don't let them get to 0% and I usually can wait overnight when they're really low.
It was a pretty unhappy discovery that my current supply wouldn't charge that battery! Luckily I had my laptop along and it *would* charge from the USB port - which can probably supply 1A or more.
I'd like to get a nice 1.5-2A supply and at least *know* that I wasn't hitting a current limitation
Richard
rsolomon said:
I'd like to get a nice 1.5-2A supply and at least *know* that I wasn't hitting a current limitation
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw this Griffin Powerblock Universal at my local Staples, and the box said 5V @ 1A:
http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/powerblockuniversal
That's a lot more the desired form-factor, but still shy of what I wanted.
I may snag one anyway just to see.
Richard
rsolomon said:
It was a pretty unhappy discovery that my current supply wouldn't charge that battery! Luckily I had my laptop along and it *would* charge from the USB port - which can probably supply 1A or more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, most, if not all, computer USB ports are limited to 500 mA -- to get 1A you need a powered hub.
3waygeek said:
Actually, most, if not all, computer USB ports are limited to 500 mA -- to get 1A you need a powered hub.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not convinced of that. Yes, the spec is max 500mA and I've sometimes seen some machines pop up and complain about overcurrent on a port, but many other times not. I'm also not 100% convinced that all my laptop's USB ports are directly off the chipset - so there may effectively be a powered hub involved here. I guess I'll have to carve up a USB cable and put a current meter in there to answer the question one way or another - don't hold your breath on that one
Richard
A couple of things:
As far as USB port power goes, I've read up about this (forget why), but the USB spec DOES say that each USB port needs to supply at least 500mA... But in practice motherboard manufacturers tie the power lines of multiple ports together, so if a motherboard has 4 ports, the power bus will be connected to all of them, and it will supply at least 500mA x4, or 2000mA (2 Amps) total. There is generally no individual regulation of this however, so if you only have one device plugged in, it has the full 2 amps to draw from. Often other devices like mice or keyboards use so little power that there is plenty left for other peripherals to use well over 500mA even when all the ports are in use. This is actually a problem, as many product manufacturers get "lazy" and design products that actually NEED more than 500mA, especially things like bus powered hard drives, because those work on most systems (but frustratingly, not all).
As far as power supplies, i got curious, and here's what i found:
The exact power supply that comes with the tilt is about $8US from mouser in the US:
http://www.mouser.com/search/Produc...irtualkey55210000virtualkey552-PSA-A05A-050-R
it's mouser part number: 552-PSA-A05A-050-R
Sadly it doesn't fold and it also only provides 1A, so, here's some more stuff:
This part is similar but just has a USB port on it, so if you already have the data cable with you, the AC adapter won't take up much more space:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T1003-ND
Now i'm really not having any luck finding exactly what you need, but if you're a bit handy you can wire a mini USB port onto another 5v power supply with more current output. I can't tell you which wires go where but if you have a multimeter and a soldering gun you should be able to figure it out:
here's a USB mini cable with wires coming off one end if you don't want to cut up a cable you already have: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=WM17104-ND
And any good regulated or switching 5v power supply should be good. Here's one with 2A output, and it's described as "flip out", so i imagine the connector, um, flips out, but it's not a stock part so you'd have to call them, and i don't know if it's regulated or switching (either is good, i think), so you should ask: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T321-P5P-ND
an in stock, non-flip out one is here:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T450-P5P-ND
If you custom wire one, test it on a less important device, just to make sure that it really will be okay, and don't sue me if it breaks something. Plus, i don't know how the kaiser feels about charging at more than 1A, since the stock power supply only provides that much current.
Also, another kind of plug is the "multi-plug" power supply, with removable plugs to allow for plugs from different countries to clip on, so rather than flipping out the plug, you could just unclip it, if you don't mind having 2 pieces. Here's one of those at 1.2A and $13US: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T946-P5P-ND
or 3.2A at $18US:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/US/DKSUS.dll?Detail?name=T377-P5P-ND
But you might want to call HTC and talk to an engineer (they're hard to get a hold of, but i've been able to do it at other companies if you keep asking) and make sure that higher charging currents are okay.
And i really only checked mouser and digikey for these things, so it's possible that other suppliers might have something different, though they are two of the largest suppliers of this kind of thing in the US, so i'd be surprised.
You could even call CUI direct and speak to someone there, they're nice people and they might be able to make you a custom one for not too much (i doubt they'd do that for one unit, but if they already make something close they might!).
If you can't get what you need easily, try harder! Hehe.
-Taylor
Hi,
can my acer iconia be charged via the usb?
No it cannot be charged via USB.
Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk
Most of the tablets can't be charged over USB - the A/C charger for the Acer is a 12v and I think (don't have mine with me at the moment) over 1 amp; even USB 3.0 only puts out 5v and maxes at 1a.
Having said that, it'd be nice if they could take a trickle charge over the USB input to reduce the battery drain, even if it can't fully charge the battery.
If anyone here also owns a Nook Color you may have noticed that it won't charge over USB either, and in fact even requires a custom "USB" cable attached to their power adapter for charging. Their cable looks like a regular USB cable but it is not.
The screens and batteries are just too big to support the tiny amount of power USB is designed to provide.
Nope, no charging over USB. It has to do with the amount of charge needed to charge the device and USB is unable go generate the needed power.
Sent from my A500 using XDA Premium App
cybermage1 said:
If anyone here also owns a Nook Color you may have noticed that it won't charge over USB either, and in fact even requires a custom "USB" cable attached to their power adapter for charging. Their cable looks like a regular USB cable but it is not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Nook Color does in fact charge over USB. I do it all the time. The only time it needs the AC power adapter is if it next to dead, and you get the "Battery too low to power on". Also, the AC adapter, even though it outputs via MicroUSB, will NOT charge other devices as it doesn't fit exactly for some reason.
martyxng said:
The Nook Color does in fact charge over USB. I do it all the time. The only time it needs the AC power adapter is if it next to dead, and you get the "Battery too low to power on". Also, the AC adapter, even though it outputs via MicroUSB, will NOT charge other devices as it doesn't fit exactly for some reason.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My (retired) 1st gen Sony eReader was like that also, USB charge didn't work once the batt level got too low
NO
Like stated before almost no tablet charges over usb. and like one poster pointed out not even the nook color charges over usb I have one as well.
One poster says the nook does charge but you have to define chargeing. on wall power it charges full in like less then an hour. plugged into usb and only if its off or in sleep with no wifi running it will chrge but it will take all night. so for all purposes it dosent usb charge.
I dont know about other tablets but the iconia has TWO internal batteries(read your box see the little x2 next to the batteries) and most likely why it wont charge over usb.
To tell the truth I have not really understood the hang up on the usb charging or the short cord for the iconia. usually I charge mine when im done with it or not using it so cord length means nothing. and as far as usb charging, usb charging on anything is harder on the battieres. and most likely why alot of companies dont do it.
The whole idea is to be prtable who wants to be teathered to the wall with a charger 4 foot or 6 foot really whats the difference?
side note: the person who said the nook color cord was special? its just a standard mini usb just like on portable hard drives nothing special about it. i lost mine and just used the one from my hard drive worked just fine.
harlaquin said:
To tell the truth I have not really understood the hang up on the usb charging or the short cord for the iconia. usually I charge mine when im done with it or not using it so cord length means nothing. and as far as usb charging, usb charging on anything is harder on the batteries. and most likely why alot of companies don't do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the point with USB charging is it one less adapter you have to carry... if everyting supported the same port type it would make life much easier the the micro USB has been a nice solution for phones
texas-saluki said:
I think the point with USB charging is it one less adapter you have to carry... if everyting supported the same port type it would make life much easier the the micro USB has been a nice solution for phones
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be great. Maybe someday they will design a transport port and technology allowing a single port to both be intelligent enough to transport files to/from a computer as well as charge these devices.
For now, as others have said - the batteries in the A500 take too much juice to be charged through the USB port. Imagine having to charge your tablet for 48 hrs? Or worse, while it's charging you pick it up to check a website and even while charging it just starts draining because the batteries are juicing out faster than they can be charged?
It just wouldn't work.
harlaquin said:
To tell the truth I have not really understood the hang up on the usb charging or the short cord for the iconia. usually I charge mine when im done with it or not using it so cord length means nothing. and as far as usb charging, usb charging on anything is harder on the battieres. and most likely why alot of companies dont do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm traveling to Germany in a few weeks. I have an adapter for my Dell Laptop to deal with the Power over there. The ability to charge my tablet, phone, and any other devices from my laptop would be awesome. If I wish to take my tablet, I'll need to buy another adapter / power converter that I'll hardly ever use. I often travel within the US for business, and carrying one less power adapter would be nice.
Sometimes My kids steal my tablet and use up all the battery, or I simply forget to plug it in... then I go to use it, and it's near dead. With the ridiculously short cord I cant use it while it charges unless I want to sit on the floor next to an electrical outlet or use an extension cord. And of course of the 50 or so power bricks I have.. none match..
While these things are slightly inconvenient.. It's not a show stopper. I love my Iconia.
I think people are used to their android phones, where (for me at least), my habit is to sit down and plug in the usb. It's just easy to keep it charged that way.
I found this neat device though, I think someone called it an extension cord or something? It really solved my problems of the short cord. I bet the guy who invented that is a millionaire.
(Seriously, they could have made the cord longer, just so you could sit the tab on a table and not be stretching, but $2 at Home Depot fixed the issue real quick).
xjestersdeadx said:
I think people are used to their android phones, where (for me at least), my habit is to sit down and plug in the usb. It's just easy to keep it charged that way.
I found this neat device though, I think someone called it an extension cord or something? It really solved my problems of the short cord. I bet the guy who invented that is a millionaire.
(Seriously, they could have made the cord longer, just so you could sit the tab on a table and not be stretching, but $2 at Home Depot fixed the issue real quick).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had to return my first Iconia due to the stinkin to short power cord and when I picked it up it ripped the center pin out with it.... poor thinking acer!
I have almost done it again several times... tomorrow I am making my own car adapter and extending the charger cord myself...
halfevildruid said:
and extending the charger cord myself...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Extending the cable isn't really all that difficult, just cut the cable in two, rip the insulating layer from both ends, add some extra cable in-between and voila! You've got yourself a longer charging cable
WereCatf said:
Extending the cable isn't really all that difficult, just cut the cable in two, rip the insulating layer from both ends, add some extra cable in-between and voila! You've got yourself a longer charging cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, that would definitely do the job but what about electrical resistance or conductance may be depending on the material, diameter of the wire, legth, temperature ... sorry, I'm not an electrician or an engineer but I think one shouldn't do such "grafting" with such sensitive electronic equipment...
Solution
What you ought to make is a 5V to 12V little box that you plug into TWO (or more) USB ports and draw power off both. It would be pretty small, you could probably put it inline. I have a hard drive case that draws power from two USB ports. One is power only, other is power and data. It Y's into a mini USB from two full size USB.
THAT'S what tablet makers ought to use. 1A at 5V is 5 watts, which is about 420mA @ 12 Volts which would probably let you charge when off at least on a tablet. Assuming no loss of course, but I bet you could still get 400mA effective.
x51 said:
I'm traveling to Germany in a few weeks. I have an adapter for my Dell Laptop to deal with the Power over there. The ability to charge my tablet, phone, and any other devices from my laptop would be awesome. If I wish to take my tablet, I'll need to buy another adapter / power converter that I'll hardly ever use. I often travel within the US for business, and carrying one less power adapter would be nice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont know if you've already made your trip to Germany or not, but as far as your Acer is concerned, all you need is a $0.30 US to German plug adapter. the brick from the iconia can already handle 110-240v. actually, most laptops and such's (even desktops) power supplies handle up to 240v due to people traveling with them. you dont need to worry about getting a special converter. this is coming from someone who's lived in Germany for 2 years, Bosnia for 7 months, and Iraq for 12 months. just look at the power supply and find the voltage on there and if it says 110-240v you're good. if its like 110-120v then you will need the power converter. lost a PlayStation 1 back in 1999 that way because I didnt check.
theroblog.com said:
What you ought to make is a 5V to 12V little box that you plug into TWO (or more) USB ports and draw power off both. It would be pretty small, you could probably put it inline. I have a hard drive case that draws power from two USB ports. One is power only, other is power and data. It Y's into a mini USB from two full size USB.
THAT'S what tablet makers ought to use. 1A at 5V is 5 watts, which is about 420mA @ 12 Volts which would probably let you charge when off at least on a tablet. Assuming no loss of course, but I bet you could still get 400mA effective.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like your thinking! (As oppose to all the nay-sayers who accepts defeat so readily...)
Another thing we should consider: many USB ports (even USB 2.0) will provide more power than the specification calls for - my motherboard puts out 1,500mAh on multiple ports, and my laptop has a dedicated "phone charging port" that puts out 1,000 mAh. Some travel adapter also has a USB charging port that puts out more than 500mAh. I know this is not the norm but is becoming a trend. So, for the lucky few who has a high-power USB port, charging the tablet via USB is entirely feasible. In fact, even with standard USB port, it can be done, just not "well".
If you don't believe me, do the math yourself - the Iconia has 2x 3.26Ah battery. At 3.7v, that is about 24 watt. For 2x USB at 500mAh, you get about 5 W/hr of juice. At no-loss, the tablet would be charged in less than 5 hours. Even if we assume 30% loss (typical), it will still be less than 7 hour to fully charge the tablet - aka one night of sleep. And it only gets better if your laptop puts out more power on the USB ports.
I would much rather have 1 power adapter for my laptop, and then plug all my phone/tablet/wifi-hotspot into the laptop... as oppose to lugging around 4 different power bricks. Plus, for those of you who travel a lot, you will know this... hotels never have enough power outlets! I have to start bringing my own powerstrip these days because if there are two of us sharing a room, we'd frequently have to pull out the TV cabinet and unplug the TV, or charge the phones in the bathroom...
So, any chance we can put this in action? And instead of waiting for tablet manufacturers to get their acts together, how many of you would actually pay for a "2x-USB-to-12v" adapter cable that is smaller/lighter than the Iconia wall brick but can charge your tablet overnight via laptop? If there is enough interest, I wonder if we could get a Kickstarter project going for this...
W.
Jumping in here a little late, but it's not true that no tablets can be charged via USB. My Samsung Galaxy Tab can be charged over USB. Mine is the 7" model, no idea about its 10" big brother.
HP TouchPad 16GB also takes charge from USB slow but still charges.
on the other hand my Acer A500 does not!
Bought one of these guys to hardwire a charger in my car:
http://www.mountguys.com/product_p/mfx5v-b-micro.htm
On the charger is specifies 5V 1500mA output. Is that ok? I know it's more than stock, but I thought circuitry can step it down if needed.
Also, I'm thinking I want to hardwire to the always hot lead that goes to the radio memory function. Any chance of current problems? Don't think it will drain my battery if I leave it charging while shopping (or at the bar)
Thanks.
I'm curious why you chose to hardwire it, when the device can only pull 700mA, and these little wonders work perfectly.
Nice! Got one of these also... twice the ports and 5X the price:
http://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Powerjolt-Dual-Universal-Micro/dp/B0042B9U8Q/ref=pd_cp_e_2
Yours and mine above specify 1A... this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Charger-Samsu...96/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1318442293&sr=8-15
2.1 A.
I just wanted a cleaner look in a little sports car... the hardwire is going to come out the panel and go straight to a dock. But now I'm worried that 1500 mA could be troublesome?
It won't be troublesome, just useless.
I have a setup for my iPod that utilizes one of what I linked. I've got a USB+RCA-to-dock cable running into my center console, then into a port in there, to some empty space in front of it (under the trim, totally invisible) where my audio guys spliced a new line into the RCA jacks that came from the factory, and split off another power line. The charger's in there, cable connects to the ports... It's nice and clean.
this should be fine. the amperage rating on a charger just tells what it is capable of if requested. it is up to the phone itself to provide the requested amount of current. that is to say if this charger can provide 1500mA, but our phones can only use 750mA, your good. it is provided all the current it needs. now on the other hand, if you were charging some device that could use 2000mA(unheard of) this charger would provide all it could, the device would just charge slower.
the voltage is fine. most chargers are rated at 5v, and should be spot on as long as it is a decent brand from a trusted source. a knock off may be out of spec to what it is rated. that is where you could run in to trouble with frying a phone.
anyway, besides all that, this seems risky. not hardwiring a charger to your car, but leaving it there while you are shopping or in the bar. ever heard that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? id hate to come out of a bar to a broken window and no phone...
i never leave my phone unattended outside of my home.
austin420 said:
some device that could use 2000mA(unheard of)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
iPad, TouchPad, Galaxy Tab 10.1...
Guess I'm a noob.. very detailed answer in FAQ.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=802711&highlight=voltage+amps+charger
Now to find out if those pins are shorted...
Reading from the AC adapter, this thing can charge at 1.8 amps. I'm doing some research on car chargers that can output 2 amps to the phone via a USB cable, but the trick is getting the phone to pull more than .5 amps from a car accessory outlet. So far I haven't had much luck. There seems to be a lot of info on ipad stuff, but not much in the way of high powered Android devices. So I thought I'd start a thread about compatible car chargers that will allow a full 1.8 amp pull from my car outlet, and see what you guys and gals think and have tried. I've attached a pic of my current setup. It's a Proclip holder on a 2012 Mustang. I've used this same setup for several previous phones (S2 Skyrocket and S3). The holder itself is adjustable to accommodate various phones with cases.
earlthepearl said:
Reading from the AC adapter, this thing can charge at 1.8 amps. I'm doing some research on car chargers that can output 2 amps to the phone via a USB cable, but the trick is getting the phone to pull more than .5 amps from a car accessory outlet. So far I haven't had much luck. There seems to be a lot of info on ipad stuff, but not much in the way of high powered Android devices. So I thought I'd start a thread about compatible car chargers that will allow a full 1.8 amp pull from my car outlet, and see what you guys and gals think and have tried. I've attached a pic of my current setup. It's a Proclip holder on a 2012 Mustang. I've used this same setup for several previous phones (S2 Skyrocket and S3). The holder itself is adjustable to accommodate various phones with cases.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Data pins need shorted together, either in the USB cig plug, or some micro USB cables are this way...
Additionally, the USB cable you use needs to have thick enough power wires to support 1.8A charge draw. Many USB cables use 28 AWG wire for the data conductors, and then you get varying degrees of wire gauge for the power conductors depending on manufacturer. Some people use 28 AWG for both, some use 26, and good cables are made with 24 AWG wire. The thicker wire gauge means less resistance so less power is lost and more can be put into the battery. To pull a proper 1.8A the phone probably should have 22AWG power wire in the USB cable really...
earlthepearl said:
Reading from the AC adapter, this thing can charge at 1.8 amps. I'm doing some research on car chargers that can output 2 amps to the phone via a USB cable, but the trick is getting the phone to pull more than .5 amps from a car accessory outlet. So far I haven't had much luck. There seems to be a lot of info on ipad stuff, but not much in the way of high powered Android devices. So I thought I'd start a thread about compatible car chargers that will allow a full 1.8 amp pull from my car outlet, and see what you guys and gals think and have tried. I've attached a pic of my current setup. It's a Proclip holder on a 2012 Mustang. I've used this same setup for several previous phones (S2 Skyrocket and S3). The holder itself is adjustable to accommodate various phones with cases.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, not trying to hijack your thread, but can you tell me which case you are using? I like the fact that it has a large lip around the screen.
Thanks
What model pro clip holder is that? I need to replace the one from my nexus. May hold out for the G2 specific one with the cable built in (like the nexus one I have now), but no telling how long that will be.
mikea3000 said:
Hi, not trying to hijack your thread, but can you tell me which case you are using? I like the fact that it has a large lip around the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the Body Glove case from the AT&T store. It was the only one they had at the time, and I didn't feel like waiting to order one so I overpaid in exchange for some piece of mind.
stetsonaw said:
What model pro clip holder is that? I need to replace the one from my nexus. May hold out for the G2 specific one with the cable built in (like the nexus one I have now), but no telling how long that will be.
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It's the holder I ordered for my Skyrocket a few years ago. It's a generic adjustable one that fits a lot of different phones with cases. It has fit my SR, GS3, and now my G2, all with cases.
EniGmA1987 said:
Additionally, the USB cable you use needs to have thick enough power wires to support 1.8A charge draw.
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I have a custom 5 inch up angle micro USB cable I ordered from www.usbfirewire.com. It is a very thick wire, thicker than the charging cable the G2 came with. The one in my pic is probably not thick enough for a 2 amp charge.
Here is an interesting article I came across about car chargers:
The Best USB Car Charger
EniGmA1987 said:
Additionally, the USB cable you use needs to have thick enough power wires to support 1.8A charge draw. Many USB cables use 28 AWG wire for the data conductors, and then you get varying degrees of wire gauge for the power conductors depending on manufacturer. Some people use 28 AWG for both, some use 26, and good cables are made with 24 AWG wire. The thicker wire gauge means less resistance so less power is lost and more can be put into the battery. To pull a proper 1.8A the phone probably should have 22AWG power wire in the USB cable really...
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Spot on. FWIW, the LG OEM cable is 20AWG on the power wires. This is the only viable explanation as I can't get the OEM wall charger to work with any cables I have sitting around (24AWG at best).
So would we be better off just using the factory charger with a power inverter or is there an actual car charger that will work?
Provided you short the data pins in whatever car charger you buy (if they arent already) and you get a cable with beefy power conductors then you should be able to draw 1.5-1.8A of power through a car charger. You have to make sure the car charger will do what you want though, many 2A chargers also have 2 ports to plug into. What they don't tell you is that each port is limited to 1A and both together will give 2A draw, but not to charge one device. The car itself also may limit power to the charger as well, I know my car specifically says 1.4A max through the cigarette plug. So it is possible to do, it is all just dependent on so many other things that you have to check off the list.
in_dmand said:
So would we be better off just using the factory charger with a power inverter or is there an actual car charger that will work?
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That's what I'm trying to figure out. I'm tempted to try that Scosche charger, with my thick USB cable. I installed Currentwidget, so I should be ale to see at what rate I'm charging at if I decide to order it.
in_dmand said:
So would we be better off just using the factory charger with a power inverter or is there an actual car charger that will work?
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I like the Powergen dual 2.1A USB charger I got off of Amazon. Has served me well. But really, anything 1.8A+ that's quality will do. The trick is going to be the USB cable. Still trying to source one from a reputable site, but you want something with 20AWG for the power. If I find something, I'll post it. Thus far I found two sites, kinda obscure, but not thrilled that the shipping alone costs more than the cables which run $6.
---------- Post added at 08:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:39 PM ----------
EniGmA1987 said:
Provided you short the data pins in whatever car charger you buy (if they arent already) and you get a cable with beefy power conductors then you should be able to draw 1.5-1.8A of power through a car charger. You have to make sure the car charger will do what you want though, many 2A chargers also have 2 ports to plug into. What they don't tell you is that each port is limited to 1A and both together will give 2A draw, but not to charge one device. The car itself also may limit power to the charger as well, I know my car specifically says 1.4A max through the cigarette plug. So it is possible to do, it is all just dependent on so many other things that you have to check off the list.
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I suspect the phone can detect the charger capacity because my OEM LG cable works on both the Apple and Non-Apple ports on the Powergen charger. Since that's the case, the phone doesn't seem to care if the data pins are shorted or not. And the Powergen is advertised as 4.2A total, so 2.1A per port.
kyler13 said:
I like the Powergen dual 2.1A USB charger I got off of Amazon. Has served me well. But really, anything 1.8A+ that's quality will do. The trick is going to be the USB cable. Still trying to source one from a reputable site, but you want something with 20AWG for the power. If I find something, I'll post it. Thus far I found two sites, kinda obscure, but not thrilled that the shipping alone costs more than the cables which run $6.
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Something worth considering is looking at charging cables labeled for tablets. They usually charge in this amperage range. I plugged my g2 into my kindle fire HD charger (1.8A) and didn't get any slow charge warnings.
Geekybiker said:
Something worth considering is looking at charging cables labeled for tablets. They usually charge in this amperage range. I plugged my g2 into my kindle fire HD charger (1.8A) and didn't get any slow charge warnings.
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Doesn't that come with the same Amazon branded usb cable you can get by itself? Take a look on the cable. A lot of times they label the wire gauge.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk 4
my amazon branded micro usb cables are 28awg and they still allow quick charge with oem wall charger.
The charging issues associated with this phone has been a huge PITA. I've been carrying my stock cable around just so I can charge my phone!!! Subscribed so I can maybe help out with some info...
bova80 said:
my amazon branded micro usb cables are 28awg and they still allow quick charge with oem wall charger.
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Are you certain that's not just the data side that is 28awg? Very surprised you can pull 1.8A at 28awg.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk 4
kyler13 said:
Doesn't that come with the same Amazon branded usb cable you can get by itself? Take a look on the cable. A lot of times they label the wire gauge.
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk 4
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They are unmarked.
Anyone been able to turn on this phone and run it without a battery with permanent power?
Short answer: not possible.
Longer answer: You would need a pretty hefty engineering brain to figure this out, as the circuitry of the daughter board detects and adjusts the mainboards voltages and such, based on the battery output. When battery output is 0, meaning dead/removed battery, the daughter board doesn't supply voltages to the mainboard.
Now, you could replace the battery with a supercapacitor, but you'd need to have a pretty big one to output the current of a fully charged battery of the 6P - something around the 10kf mark, which IIRC from my university days, is roughly the size of 2 D-cell batteries or so. You'd then need to wire this all in, and even if you made it neat and 3D printed a new back, you went from a slim phone to a small brick. You'd also still need to provide current to charge the super capacitor, which doesn't use normal voltages like the charger and daughterboard can output, so you'd need to add in a voltage regulator board, wire that to the daughterboard, let the DB send current to the mainboard, and since this all outputs a lot of heat, now you run into a serious heating / cooling problem. Add a fan, a larger super capacitor to power said fan, and well, you now have something that looks like a bomb lol.
To touch further on the heat problem - my dash camera has a 10kf SC in it that I wired in instead of the crappy NiCad battery it came with. It was hot enough to keep the snow melted through the windshield on its own with 12v 1a current - roughly 20% of the current the wall charger of the 6p provides. It didn't keep the whole windshield free, rather, a spot large enough to let the camera do its thing without issue.
Thanks Wiltron for your reply. Doesn't seem worth it for me to go through that much trouble to be honest, besides, having something in your car that looks like a bomb these days will get me more attention than I want. I do have to say that I'm able to power the phone with just the charger connected, but up to a certain point, when the cpu spikes while booting it runs short of power and shuts off. Same thing when I'm fully booted into android, I disconnect the battery and it will stay running up to the point where I start some app or even just turn the phone on its side and the phone just goes dark. I'm thinking that the daughterboard does provide power to the motherboard without a battery, but just not enough. Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
cbgreen said:
Do you think a heftier charger might overload the circuitry of the phone?
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It can provide as much current as normal operations permit, however just make sure the cable and charger are official and supported, like Benson certified cables and a decent quality car charger like Anker.
Don't go crazy with the 50amp 120v brick chargers for cars, but don't grab the cheap ass gas station 0.5a 5v 4 for $10 special either
Tronsmart has good ones - I use one personally that has the certified USB C cable built into it.. minimal issues other than the thing does get hot