I want to open my N10 up, but I really don't know how much force to be using to separate the back from the screen (seems like it would require an extreme amount of force).
I have a suction cup attached to the screen, and I have the screw off the back. From there, I assume I would start at a corner and just press it downward to try to get the back off? Should it require a lot of force? Does the back bend, or should it?
Do a search, got to be videos on you tube.
Sent from my MB855 using xda premium
rbeavers said:
Do a search, got to be videos on you tube.
Sent from my MB855 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only thing I can find is the PowerMedic teardown, which doesn't explain how much force should be needed still...
I'd rather hear from someone personally how hard it was to open their N10.
espionage724 said:
Only thing I can find is the PowerMedic teardown, which doesn't explain how much force should be needed still...
I'd rather hear from someone personally how hard it was to open their N10.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search youtube( google nexus 10 gets clean) shows the rear cover being removed. I couldn't post a link because I don't know how to! Hope it helps if
Lipp24 said:
Search youtube( google nexus 10 gets clean) shows the rear cover being removed. I couldn't post a link because I don't know how to! Hope it helps if
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Found it
Hmm, I'll have to see if I have a separating tool, but that doesn't look like too much force was used at all.
Finally got it open. Was a huge pain to do with a credit card (basically destroyed it mostly), but I started with the top-middle edge, and worked my way around from there. Biggest pain was to get the bottom edge off, but I managed to get that off after a while.
So, I just noticed that my Pogo connection area, there's a pin broken. From left-to-right, it's the 5th pin. Why is this?
espionage724 said:
Finally got it open. Was a huge pain to do with a credit card (basically destroyed it mostly), but I started with the top-middle edge, and worked my way around from there. Biggest pain was to get the bottom edge off, but I managed to get that off after a while.
So, I just noticed that my Pogo connection area, there's a pin broken. From left-to-right, it's the 5th pin. Why is this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean on the inside of the N10 there is a pin broken? I looked at those powerbook medic photos which its hard to get an angle on that area, but it didnt look like any of the inside pin connections were missing, so are you saying it looks intentionally not connected/separated?
bigmatty said:
Do you mean on the inside of the N10 there is a pin broken? I looked at those powerbook medic photos which its hard to get an angle on that area, but it didnt look like any of the inside pin connections were missing, so are you saying it looks intentionally not connected/separated?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's like a 3-piece system in the Pogo cable area. The N10 shell has the 5 pin area and has metal contact sheets on the inside for those pins. The N10 itself then has strips of metal I think above metal contact points. The strip of metal that should come in-contact on the N10 itself is cut-short on the 5th pin.
Probably not the best explanation though. I think I saw a post on the Pogo cable thread of someone mentioning this.
espionage724 said:
It's like a 3-piece system in the Pogo cable area. The N10 shell has the 5 pin area and has metal contact sheets on the inside for those pins. The N10 itself then has strips of metal I think above metal contact points. The strip of metal that should come in-contact on the N10 itself is cut-short on the 5th pin.
Probably not the best explanation though. I think I saw a post on the Pogo cable thread of someone mentioning this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know there was a post about the pogo charger that included pictures, and in the picture one of the pins was either missing or shaded. the discussion assumed it was missing and gave theorys on why. (all perfectly reasonable as I remember.) BUT I just got a pogo in the mail a couple days ago and, at least this vesion, has all its pins. im guessing there is a couple ways the pogo "port" could be utilized, so a variety of combinations would certainly make sense.
but as for that cut short you're talking about, does it look machine done? like if its a ribbon-like material does the notch made in it look perfectly made such that it was done by machine? or does it look jagged or snagged? if it looks machine made Im sure its intentional. if it looked jagged or snagged Id be concerned that is on accident.
EDIT: i ask/say "ribbon like material" but same basic thought process for me re: metal extensoin posts - does the "cut" look like it was done with some sort of grinding device that would leave the pins as "not sharp" or does it look cut like when you flex metal a bunch and it snaps or if you use wire cutters how it leaves a jagged edge.
/my .02
Related
seems DerBub and me found the solution to his sim cover problem:
it's definitely a mounting issue!
look at the photos showing the missalignment of his cover:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=8833885&postcount=3
this is the result of mounting it like picture one (wrong pressure on the outside of the cover)!
try to mount it as shown on picture two! you need to apply nearly equal pressure to the back side of the cover (where the gap was) and mount it gently!
it IS possible to mount it with OR without gap, that means even if you tried it ten times before and it wont fit, try it again with the method shown in picture 2!!!
even DerBub tried it a couple of times before the cover fitted again (fine) as in delivery condition!
we hope that this information would be usefull for others to fix their gap!
best wishes,
DerBub & tml1504
update:
good to see that this actually really helps some people!
TML1504 said:
seems kid_loco and me found the solution to his sim cover problem:
it's definitely a mounting issue!
look at the photos showing the missalignment of his cover:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=8833885&postcount=3
this is the result of mounting it like picture one (wrong pressure on the outside of the cover)!
try to mount it as shown on picture two! you need to apply nearly equal pressure to the back side of the cover (where the gap was) and mount it gently!
it IS possible to mount it with OR without gap, that means even if you tried it ten times before and it wont fit, try it again with the method shown in picture 2!!!
even kid_loco tried it a couple of times before the cover fitted again (fine) as in delivery condition!
we hope that this information would be usefull for others to fix their gap!
best wishes,
kid_loco & tml1504
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lulz and to think this made so many people panic and go beserke, good finding man thanks for the fix
That always got me when people say it doesn't fit. When you take it out of the box it is a perfect fit, so it has to be the way it is being put back on. It can't magically shrink to now have a gap. Thanks for the tip.
I'm very glad to have this "problem" fixed
As tml1504 wrote I also had this gap problem, even though I've tried to fit the sim cover several times (obviously in a wrong manner).
After fitting the cover in the manner described in pic 2, the cover fits in the way it should fit: even perfectly
regarding tml1504's posting:
pic 1: putting the pressure at the outside (left and right side of the sim cover) causes the ominous gap.
pic 2: just take your phone backwards and push the cover with a smooth equal pressure (3-4 fingers). it is useful to have the thumb at the frontside to stabilise the other 3-4 fingers
best wishes,
DerBub
TML1504 said:
seems kid_loco and me found the solution to his sim cover problem:
it's definitely a mounting issue!
look at the photos showing the missalignment of his cover:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=8833885&postcount=3
this is the result of mounting it like picture one (wrong pressure on the outside of the cover)!
try to mount it as shown on picture two! you need to apply nearly equal pressure to the back side of the cover (where the gap was) and mount it gently!
it IS possible to mount it with OR without gap, that means even if you tried it ten times before and it wont fit, try it again with the method shown in picture 2!!!
even kid_loco tried it a couple of times before the cover fitted again (fine) as in delivery condition!
we hope that this information would be usefull for others to fix their gap!
best wishes,
kid_loco & tml1504
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great info! Thanks very much!
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
We hope we were able to be of assistance to you
cheers
I love you guys for this. Just tried it, and it works wonders! Much appreciated.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
You're welcome
Hopefully this hint will help many users!
Excellent tip there, many thanks!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=819191&page=2
said here you need to apply pressure to back as well as sides as it get the little plastic mounting guides in line, they come as new fine its only when you remove it for the first time and try to get it back on it has a gap
why cant i see picture two?!
This is weird to me because I can't actually put mine on wrong. Even if I squeeze the back cover by the sides as I slide it on, the cover just will not fit at all, it just slides off...
Once the cover is in it's "guide rails" I can push it on with one finger from the very bottom of the phone and it fits right. I still wonder if some phones out there have a dodgy cover or something...
reelist said:
why cant i see picture two?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry, don't know! i've used standard encoding in photoshop and i think everybody else doesn't have a problem with my pictures...
dazultra2000 said:
I still wonder if some phones out there have a dodgy cover or something...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
perhaps this can be the case, but i think none of them is so "dodged up" that a correct mounting wouldn't be possible. just out of curiosity i tried it with mine (although i don't have any gap so far) and i had been able to mount it in a wise that a gap was the result...
so i would still recommend everybody who has the gap to retry the mounting procedure until it fits!
and for the plastics engineers out there:
with plastic tools for molding machines and a considerably high number of parts it would be more than likely that the tool has more than one cavity, which implies that there are more than one possible "version" of the cover on the market. although they should only differ in the micrometer scale, it WOULD be possible that parts from cavity 1 would fit perfect, but parts from cavity 2 have the mounting issue. i will look again on the inside of my cover and try to find some markers, then we should be ably to identify the different cavity's (if they exist)!
regards,
markus
TML1504 said:
sorry, don't know! i've used standard encoding in photoshop and i think everybody else doesn't have a problem with my pictures...
perhaps this can be the case, but i think none of them is so "dodged up" that a correct mounting wouldn't be possible. just out of curiosity i tried it with mine (although i don't have any gap so far) and i had been able to mount it in a wise that a gap was the result...
so i would still recommend everybody who has the gap to retry the mounting procedure until it fits!
and for the plastics engineers out there:
with plastic tools for molding machines and a considerably high number of parts it would be more than likely that the tool has more than one cavity, which implies that there are more than one possible "version" of the cover on the market. although they should only differ in the micrometer scale, it WOULD be possible that parts from cavity 1 would fit perfect, but parts from cavity 2 have the mounting issue. i will look again on the inside of my cover and try to find some markers, then we should be ably to identify the different cavity's (if they exist)!
regards,
markus
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are talking about there maybe being different moulds for the covers, yet you have also said that you can put it on a different way and replicate the gap problem, surely that would mean that the chances are there aren't more than 1 cover and it is just down to user error, as I have always thought. There are many people saying that it is bent, kinked, or just doesn't fit, yet if you take it off and put it on the correct way, none of this happens, strange that.
after reading this post I checked the back of my DHD and noticed I had the gap issue - then applied the pic2 method and no gap!
thanks op
LOLOL, is was this that some people were talking about?!!?
I figure at 1st that had to make a little pressure in the center of the cover so that the cover fitted right into the body...
Nice one... worked perfectly ;-)
onesolo said:
LOLOL, is was this that some people were talking about?!!?
I figure at 1st that had to make a little pressure in the center of the cover so that the cover fitted right into the body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No this is not what those who were first to recieve the DHD (including me) are talking about. What is being shown here is just plain stupidity. Anybody with half a wit would know how to fit the cover on without a 'bump'. This is not the incorrect fit / gap issue.
Pointless thread, please close
but, I have to say, I still have gap between cover and body, about half milimeter,
and cover is creaky little bit...
:-(
Old HD2 was much hardware better than desire hd
My sim cover is getting loose, when I hold it in landscape mode with the usual 2 finger using the camera posistion i can twist my fingers slightly with barely any force making the cover gap ...anyone else?
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
While reading the conspiracy theories, defects, issues (you know the ones that you never knew you had an issue until someone else told you theirs) threads..
I got to wanting to know how many of the "hard to open" box owners have had any issues with their units.
I realized my original hard to open box unit had double/ retaped seal.
Might they have taken a few of the units out and done something to them prior to shipping. Perhaps a last min fix (not a firmware update, as my unit got them after I opened it) or was that just to stick the FCC sticker on?
-CC
What do you define as a "hard to open box"?
just lou said:
What do you define as a "hard to open box"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This; http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1775785&highlight=hard+unbox
There are more threads about having a hard time opening it, suggesting to use a blender, sledgehammer, microwave or little sister to get it open. Not coming up on searches atm tho...
Interesting. :laugh: I can't say I had a "hard to open box" then.
Mine had 4 stickers on it .. one on each side of the box. After about 10 minutes of use ... my digitizer goes crazy and will not register in spots.
Mine wasn't exactly a slide-out easy open but it wasn't all that hard. I have no issues with mine.
Mine was exceptionally difficult to open, no issues with my unit.
Ah, that could be it? Makes sense.
Mine had been double taped back up, and left on to run down, so perhaps the screws had been tightened and they'd turned it on to test, without powering off.
Good theory.
With a box cutter I had my N7 out of the box in about 30 seconds.
Do people no longer use sharp objects to open boxes any more?
The box was most likely opened to add your account.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
Mine was opened, no screen problems though
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
I find it hilarious people are basing quality of hardware on how hard it is to open a box.
For the record my box was low to medium hard to open and my nexus 7 is awesome.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
It's all about the technique. Most people will squeeze the sides causing a suction making it difficult to open. The people with technique slightly pull out all four sides to loosen top cover, lift under the opposing corners of top cover and shake out the bottom. No problem getting it opened and got a perfect first unit. Second unit from B&H in transit.
Mine was ridiculously hard to push out, I slid a v v thin bread knife down all the sides, not much help, much application of even pressure got a tiny bit of movement enabling me to pinch the rim of the sleeve then mm by mm 1 edge at a time I got movement then it slid off, I've thoroughly inspected the device NO sign of any of the common issues and a very happy consumer.
Just for more emphasis the sleeve was on TIGHT, my collar is blue and my arms are strong but this was so tight I was concerned that tightness might cause damage.
El Daddy said:
The box was most likely opened to add your account.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Add my account? How'd the store know I was gonna buy that unit at that store to put in my account without knowing the details?
Sent from my grouper using Tapatalk
theelite said:
I find it hilarious people are basing quality of hardware on how hard it is to open a box.
For the record my box was low to medium hard to open and my nexus 7 is awesome.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The question is it perhaps those with the harder to open boxes was because of the retaping to reseal a unit that may have been fixed last minute after the fact?
Once I got mine out I realized the tape glue and additional unintended to the design thickness of the added tape caused it to stick to the sleeve.
My second unit slid out almost by itself. It too had double tape but it seems the gamestop employees had already slid the sleeve off before. The inner box had smege on it, the sleeve was less than pristine, as my original unit.
Sent from my grouper using Tapatalk
clockcycle said:
Add my account? How'd the store know I was gonna buy that unit at that store to put in my account without knowing the details?
Sent from my grouper using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a good question. But mine was very difficult to open, I was surprised by it.
When I turned it on, it had my email and name there, I only had to enter my password.
Somehow it knew that unit was for my account.
My box wasn't hard to open at all. Yes the tapes were sturdy and can't be easily "cut" with your finger nails but it didn't stand a chance against my key. I opened my box in less than 30 seconds. Not sure what all the fuss is about.
Bielinsk said:
That is a good question. But mine was very difficult to open, I was surprised by it.
When I turned it on, it had my email and name there, I only had to enter my password.
Somehow it knew that unit was for my account.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you ordered from Google Play, there was an option to add your Google account before shipping.
The outer sleeve on mine was extremely tight, tight, tight! But the box itself was a breeze. A perfect unit inside. Loving it.
This is a picture of a circuit board from an LG WCP-700 Qi charger. It makes a very annoying beep, but I can't figure out what is making it. My best guess so far is the part labeled 331. Any help would be appreciated.
BadBoyNDSU said:
This is a picture of a circuit board from an LG WCP-700 Qi charger. It makes a very annoying beep, but I can't figure out what is making it. My best guess so far is the part labeled 331. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the beep that loud? If you find out, be sure to post it here. Mine is on it's way.
That looks like it. I'll certainly take mine out when it arrives in a few days, if you are too afraid to yank it wait and I'll let you know how it turns out.
I'd rather have a dead charger than a loud annoying one
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Might want to check this out. Someone stated that they took it out and it's dead.
I have the same question, I got the case open expecting this to be easy but I'm not 100% sure what to pull off the PCB. I think you are right that it has to be the part labeled 331. There is just not anything else that it could be.
That said I'm not willing to pull it without some confirmation. Maybe somebody here with more EE experience can tell us for sure.
I don't get my nexus 4 until tomorrow, maybe once I have it I can get the charger to beep and listen for where the sound is coming from.
Apologies for being slightly OT (although I'll be looking to do this when I get mine).
I'm struggling to find a supported voltage range in any specifications for this pad - I'm UK based and need either an adaptor or convertor depending on the range.
Could someone who has one let me know what the specs are please?
How did you get it open??? I've been trying for a week now and have all but ruined the bottom ha! A "How To" would be appreciated!
Jester23 said:
How did you get it open??? I've been trying for a week now and have all but ruined the bottom ha! A "How To" would be appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 4 little rubber feet on the bottom pull out and there are 4 small Phillips screws underneath.
I had to use a small screw driver to pry up on the feet, it felt like they might rip but they all came out undamaged. Once those screws are out the top and bottom are still held together by a couple of snap-tabs in the middle of the long sides. I was able to get them apart with a little prying and again nothing broke even though it felt like it might. The PCB is held on by 4 obvious Phillips screws.
Sorry I don't have any pictures and can't take any until after I get home from work later.
CodeMonkey said:
Apologies for being slightly OT (although I'll be looking to do this when I get mine).
I'm struggling to find a supported voltage range in any specifications for this pad - I'm UK based and need either an adaptor or convertor depending on the range.
Could someone who has one let me know what the specs are please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here.
brettray said:
The 4 little rubber feet on the bottom pull out and there are 4 small Phillips screws underneath.
I had to use a small screw driver to pry up on the feet, it felt like they might rip but they all came out undamaged. Once those screws are out the top and bottom are still held together by a couple of snap-tabs in the middle of the long sides. I was able to get them apart with a little prying and again nothing broke even though it felt like it might. The PCB is held on by 4 obvious Phillips screws.
Sorry I don't have any pictures and can't take any until after I get home from work later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, mine is different then... I got it from Amazon and its a Verizon one and the bottom is all one solid rubery unit. I saw the 4 posts with screws when I pry it open but couldn't get to the screws.
Thanks!
Instead of pulling it or jacking up the PCB trying to disconnect, could you maybe just drown the thing in some sort of epoxy? if not muting it, may at least muffle it some
Check the ZENS Qi wireless chargers, no beep and work great!
Jean2000 said:
Check the ZENS Qi wireless chargers, no beep and work great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw them and would love to but not available in Canada or the US it looks like...
Jester23 said:
I saw them and would love to but not available in Canada or the US it looks like...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are now...!
check the store on wpcentral website
Jean2000 said:
They are now...!
check the store on wpcentral website
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like OOS currently.
Neo42 said:
Instead of pulling it or jacking up the PCB trying to disconnect, could you maybe just drown the thing in some sort of epoxy? if not muting it, may at least muffle it some
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried putting my finger over different parts of the PCB and the letting it beep, including "331", and nothing I do lessens the volume. That's why I'm baffled on what part is the actual speaker.
The part labled 331 looks like an choke/inductor to me. I wouldn't remove it...
edit: do you have a picture of the other side of the PCB?
Luxferro said:
The part labled 331 looks like an choke/inductor to me. I wouldn't remove it...
edit: do you have a picture of the other side of the PCB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only things on the back side of the PCB are the two LEDs at the top. I am beginning to think that the sound is coming from the coil itself, like it is performing double duty as a charging coil and as a speaker coil.
BTW, I got my phone today and can confirm (as has been said elsewhere) that this charger works perfectly for charging the nexus 4. Well... expect for the loud beeps.
Jester23 said:
OK, mine is different then... I got it from Amazon and its a Verizon one and the bottom is all one solid rubery unit. I saw the 4 posts with screws when I pry it open but couldn't get to the screws.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just for reference here are some pictures of my charger, so that you can see the screw locations. Mine is also Verizon branded and came from amazon.
brettray said:
Just for reference here are some pictures of my charger, so that you can see the screw locations. Mine is also Verizon branded and came from amazon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, turns out the plugs were there the two I had tried to pry out tore making me think they did not come out. So, now just to figure out where the beep is coming from!
As I was walking my nexus 7 slipped out of my hand and fell on the floor. A couple of minutes later I tried to turn on WiFi, but it couldn't get a strong signal. However if I'm close to the router it connects. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
You probably only need to pop the back off, make sure it's not full of grit and fluff, and put it back on again.
Just run your thumbnail around under the back bezel, starting from the middle of a long edge - knives or screwdrivers won't do the plastic any good. Try to avoid touching components and contacts once you have it open. Static won't do the components any good, and fingerprints aren't great on spring contacts.
The cover will easily clip back on with gentle pressure at the edges.
Fuzzra said:
You probably only need to pop the back off, make sure it's not full of grit and fluff, and put it back on again.
Just run your thumbnail around under the back bezel, starting from the middle of a long edge - knives or screwdrivers won't do the plastic any good. Try to avoid touching components and contacts once you have it open. Static won't do the components any good, and fingerprints aren't great on spring contacts.
The cover will easily clip back on with gentle pressure at the edges.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did..but it didn't help :/
kittymoonstah said:
I did..but it didn't help :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I FIXED IT! I FIXED IT! Thanks anyway for trying to help
Out of interest, how did you fix it?
It's always good to put your solution at the end just in case somebody find the thread two years from now and it helps them. Also, I'm terribly nosy and like collecting fixes in my brain.
Fuzzra said:
Out of interest, how did you fix it?
It's always good to put your solution at the end just in case somebody find the thread two years from now and it helps them. Also, I'm terribly nosy and like collecting fixes in my brain.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well.. I'll try to explain it. It's rather simple. When you see the nexus 7 without its lid, search for the two little gold raised up thingies that connect with two little plates on the inside of the lid itself. I just raised them a little bit with my finger so that they could have better contact with the plates. Then just close it and voila. Im sorry for not being all technical with you xD
kittymoonstah said:
Well.. I'll try to explain it. It's rather simple. When you see the nexus 7 without its lid, search for the two little gold raised up thingies that connect with two little plates on the inside of the lid itself. I just raised them a little bit with my finger so that they could have better contact with the plates. Then just close it and voila. Im sorry for not being all technical with you xD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. Do any of these spring contacts have anything to do with wifi signal strength?
I own 2 first gen nexus7 stock kitkat never rooted... Both suffer from wifi authorization issues and signal drops..
I just grabed one after reading this, its wifi as usual was not connected. I popped the back off and adjusted all the contact springs. I think there was 6 or 8 of them.. Anyway i got wifi connection right away.. A fluke? Or do any of these springs and the back cover effect wifi?
TKG26 said:
Interesting. Do any of these spring contacts have anything to do with wifi signal strength?
I own 2 first gen nexus7 stock kitkat never rooted... Both suffer from wifi authorization issues and signal drops..
I just grabed one after reading this, its wifi as usual was not connected. I popped the back off and adjusted all the contact springs. I think there was 6 or 8 of them.. Anyway i got wifi connection right away.. A fluke? Or do any of these springs and the back cover effect wifi?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for this late reply. When I fiddled around with it there were only 2 springs.. :/
No . Problem either way my problem came back.
The fix came from setting up a different security option on the router.
Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?
bert682 said:
Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.
bert682 said:
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.
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Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?
You need a different screen if you want to fix it.
bert682 said:
Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?
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Click to collapse
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen
lopezk38 said:
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen
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Yea I took it all apart and while the new one was connected I was able to connect the old one, upside down etc. It worked OK. Did a bit of a blow and properly pressing down on the connectors.
I could accept the screen is at fault at return it but when the issue is not 100% of the time I know my luck will be that when it gets tested at the sellers end it will work, get sent back to me and be broken again.
Have some monitoring apps running now so I can tell of its heat. Since this side is away from the battery im less incluined to think its heat from that. The motherboard does run down that side so it could be something in that? Ever seen any reports of that getting too hot?
Could even be heat from the antenna cable somehow?
Strange that it spans the whole length though.
Ill risk the return I think, got a video of it being broken so will see what happens.
Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.
Planterz said:
Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.
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Click to collapse
Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?
bert682 said:
Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interestingly enough , the original digitizer is wrapped with aluminum tape. Some knockoffs have a better cover in fact. They use a hard aluminum sheet instead of aluminum tape. Some knockoffs don't have that shielding which is bad because that tape is there to keep the IC from getting spammed with useless data by radio frequencies and such.
If you haven't dropped your device , i don'T think it is likely that there is a problem with the glass. It's most likely the IC.
You could transfer your old flex to your new glass which is easy but you need some seriously steady hands.
When you remove the glass from the frame , you will see the flex cable's contact zone. It's basically the part where it connects to the glass. If you heat that area up with a heat gun it's gonna come right off when the solder beneath melts. Take out the new one and the old one. You need a flathead tip for your solering iron , which is like a flathead screwdriver. Simply take some solder and spread that solder around the contact dots , don't worry it won't stick to the plastic but it will melt if you keep it at the same spot too much. When you're done spreading , there are two dots with which you can align your old flex cable to your new glass. Use some adhesive tape around the alignment dots and Align the dots with your flex cable (you'll know which dots when you see it because it's orange and kinda stands out) press it so the adhesive holds and then use your heat gun and melt the solder to the contact zone.
It's actually easier than it sounds.