seems DerBub and me found the solution to his sim cover problem:
it's definitely a mounting issue!
look at the photos showing the missalignment of his cover:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=8833885&postcount=3
this is the result of mounting it like picture one (wrong pressure on the outside of the cover)!
try to mount it as shown on picture two! you need to apply nearly equal pressure to the back side of the cover (where the gap was) and mount it gently!
it IS possible to mount it with OR without gap, that means even if you tried it ten times before and it wont fit, try it again with the method shown in picture 2!!!
even DerBub tried it a couple of times before the cover fitted again (fine) as in delivery condition!
we hope that this information would be usefull for others to fix their gap!
best wishes,
DerBub & tml1504
update:
good to see that this actually really helps some people!
TML1504 said:
seems kid_loco and me found the solution to his sim cover problem:
it's definitely a mounting issue!
look at the photos showing the missalignment of his cover:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=8833885&postcount=3
this is the result of mounting it like picture one (wrong pressure on the outside of the cover)!
try to mount it as shown on picture two! you need to apply nearly equal pressure to the back side of the cover (where the gap was) and mount it gently!
it IS possible to mount it with OR without gap, that means even if you tried it ten times before and it wont fit, try it again with the method shown in picture 2!!!
even kid_loco tried it a couple of times before the cover fitted again (fine) as in delivery condition!
we hope that this information would be usefull for others to fix their gap!
best wishes,
kid_loco & tml1504
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lulz and to think this made so many people panic and go beserke, good finding man thanks for the fix
That always got me when people say it doesn't fit. When you take it out of the box it is a perfect fit, so it has to be the way it is being put back on. It can't magically shrink to now have a gap. Thanks for the tip.
I'm very glad to have this "problem" fixed
As tml1504 wrote I also had this gap problem, even though I've tried to fit the sim cover several times (obviously in a wrong manner).
After fitting the cover in the manner described in pic 2, the cover fits in the way it should fit: even perfectly
regarding tml1504's posting:
pic 1: putting the pressure at the outside (left and right side of the sim cover) causes the ominous gap.
pic 2: just take your phone backwards and push the cover with a smooth equal pressure (3-4 fingers). it is useful to have the thumb at the frontside to stabilise the other 3-4 fingers
best wishes,
DerBub
TML1504 said:
seems kid_loco and me found the solution to his sim cover problem:
it's definitely a mounting issue!
look at the photos showing the missalignment of his cover:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=8833885&postcount=3
this is the result of mounting it like picture one (wrong pressure on the outside of the cover)!
try to mount it as shown on picture two! you need to apply nearly equal pressure to the back side of the cover (where the gap was) and mount it gently!
it IS possible to mount it with OR without gap, that means even if you tried it ten times before and it wont fit, try it again with the method shown in picture 2!!!
even kid_loco tried it a couple of times before the cover fitted again (fine) as in delivery condition!
we hope that this information would be usefull for others to fix their gap!
best wishes,
kid_loco & tml1504
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great info! Thanks very much!
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
We hope we were able to be of assistance to you
cheers
I love you guys for this. Just tried it, and it works wonders! Much appreciated.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
You're welcome
Hopefully this hint will help many users!
Excellent tip there, many thanks!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=819191&page=2
said here you need to apply pressure to back as well as sides as it get the little plastic mounting guides in line, they come as new fine its only when you remove it for the first time and try to get it back on it has a gap
why cant i see picture two?!
This is weird to me because I can't actually put mine on wrong. Even if I squeeze the back cover by the sides as I slide it on, the cover just will not fit at all, it just slides off...
Once the cover is in it's "guide rails" I can push it on with one finger from the very bottom of the phone and it fits right. I still wonder if some phones out there have a dodgy cover or something...
reelist said:
why cant i see picture two?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry, don't know! i've used standard encoding in photoshop and i think everybody else doesn't have a problem with my pictures...
dazultra2000 said:
I still wonder if some phones out there have a dodgy cover or something...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
perhaps this can be the case, but i think none of them is so "dodged up" that a correct mounting wouldn't be possible. just out of curiosity i tried it with mine (although i don't have any gap so far) and i had been able to mount it in a wise that a gap was the result...
so i would still recommend everybody who has the gap to retry the mounting procedure until it fits!
and for the plastics engineers out there:
with plastic tools for molding machines and a considerably high number of parts it would be more than likely that the tool has more than one cavity, which implies that there are more than one possible "version" of the cover on the market. although they should only differ in the micrometer scale, it WOULD be possible that parts from cavity 1 would fit perfect, but parts from cavity 2 have the mounting issue. i will look again on the inside of my cover and try to find some markers, then we should be ably to identify the different cavity's (if they exist)!
regards,
markus
TML1504 said:
sorry, don't know! i've used standard encoding in photoshop and i think everybody else doesn't have a problem with my pictures...
perhaps this can be the case, but i think none of them is so "dodged up" that a correct mounting wouldn't be possible. just out of curiosity i tried it with mine (although i don't have any gap so far) and i had been able to mount it in a wise that a gap was the result...
so i would still recommend everybody who has the gap to retry the mounting procedure until it fits!
and for the plastics engineers out there:
with plastic tools for molding machines and a considerably high number of parts it would be more than likely that the tool has more than one cavity, which implies that there are more than one possible "version" of the cover on the market. although they should only differ in the micrometer scale, it WOULD be possible that parts from cavity 1 would fit perfect, but parts from cavity 2 have the mounting issue. i will look again on the inside of my cover and try to find some markers, then we should be ably to identify the different cavity's (if they exist)!
regards,
markus
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are talking about there maybe being different moulds for the covers, yet you have also said that you can put it on a different way and replicate the gap problem, surely that would mean that the chances are there aren't more than 1 cover and it is just down to user error, as I have always thought. There are many people saying that it is bent, kinked, or just doesn't fit, yet if you take it off and put it on the correct way, none of this happens, strange that.
after reading this post I checked the back of my DHD and noticed I had the gap issue - then applied the pic2 method and no gap!
thanks op
LOLOL, is was this that some people were talking about?!!?
I figure at 1st that had to make a little pressure in the center of the cover so that the cover fitted right into the body...
Nice one... worked perfectly ;-)
onesolo said:
LOLOL, is was this that some people were talking about?!!?
I figure at 1st that had to make a little pressure in the center of the cover so that the cover fitted right into the body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No this is not what those who were first to recieve the DHD (including me) are talking about. What is being shown here is just plain stupidity. Anybody with half a wit would know how to fit the cover on without a 'bump'. This is not the incorrect fit / gap issue.
Pointless thread, please close
but, I have to say, I still have gap between cover and body, about half milimeter,
and cover is creaky little bit...
:-(
Old HD2 was much hardware better than desire hd
My sim cover is getting loose, when I hold it in landscape mode with the usual 2 finger using the camera posistion i can twist my fingers slightly with barely any force making the cover gap ...anyone else?
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
Related
Hey! I just replaced a broken screen and it went quite well, aside from the fact that my mic is not really working as it should anymore (it sounds like I am really far away whenever I speak). After the reassembly, I noticed one plastic piece which for the life of me I cannot find a suitable place for. Does anyone know where it is supposed to go?
I've never had that piece loose after replacing my screen (I've gone through 4!!).
The microphone problem seems to be a common problem with screen replacements (judging by xda, other forums and product reviews). I don't know a fix for that, but wanted to let you know it seems to be everyone
Sent from my MB526 using xda premium
Haha ok, no I haven't been able to spot it n any how-to video or anything so I am completely stumped. Does anyone know if the mic problem is fixable? Been googling a bit without result.
Edit: " end of my woes.
I had the same thing as adam in the end. its the little orange silicon bit that shields the microphone. it fits into the fornt cover near the microphone hole. I accidentally threw it away with the old cover and then had the problem. I had to buy a complete new casing in the edn but it is working fine now.
Chris"
Found this in another thread, but... Hmmm, I know of the three orange parts and I have taken good care of them. None of those are clowe to the mic though, or perhaps I am mixing up the mic with somethng else? Oh well, there was somethng else about a rubber part behind the display, perhaps I'll just stick my rubber thingie in there. Yup.
rakitin said:
Edit: " end of my woes.
I had the same thing as Adam in the end. its the little orange silicon bit that shields the microphone. it fits into the front cover near the microphone hole. I accidentally threw it away with the old cover and then had the problem. I had to buy a complete new casing in the end but it is working fine now.
Chris"
Found this in another thread, but... Hmmm, I know of the three orange parts and I have taken good care of them. None of those are close to the mic though, or perhaps I am mixing up the mic with something else? Oh well, there was something else about a rubber part behind the display, perhaps I'll just stick my rubber thingie in there. Yup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I know what Chris was referring to, it's a rectangular red/orange silicone.... thing. I'll edit this with link to a video at the time it appears, when I get to a computer that is.
-Sent from my MB525 on Quarx's 2nd boot CM10 [BL7]
pk92 said:
I think I know what Chris was referring to, it's a rectangular red/orange silicone.... thing. I'll edit this with link to a video at the time it appears, when I get to a computer that is.
-Sent from my MB525 on Quarx's 2nd boot CM10 [BL7]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! I will open it up again tonight and see if I can fix it. Apparently I also managed to cause some problem with the headset since the right earpiece no longer works. Only the left one... Seems like i really shouldnt do these kinds of repair work myself.
Edit: i think I used too much glue a the bottom while fastening the screen and that is why the mic is not working as it should. Just putting it here so others might take t ny consideration if they see this post. Guess the only way to fixit is to buy a new front.
Greetings,
I tried to search for this problem on this forum but I couldn't find anything specific to this device.
The tablet works fine in all aspects, except the screen flickers when the aluminum back is stressed, i.e. when its being held. The tablet screen will flicker in brightness as the back is pressed.
Usually the most reliable way to reproduce the problem is to flex the tablet, as if you were trying to split a piece of plastic into two by gradually flexing it until it breaks.
Therefore, I have concluded it is a hardware problem, but I don't know exactly what.
I apologize if I'm difficult to understand, and if you need any clarification, let me know.
Thank you everyone for your time.
-Kevin
ktong747 said:
Greetings,
I tried to search for this problem on this forum but I couldn't find anything specific to this device.
The tablet works fine in all aspects, except the screen flickers when the aluminum back is stressed, i.e. when its being held. The tablet screen will flicker in brightness as the back is pressed.
Usually the most reliable way to reproduce the problem is to flex the tablet, as if you were trying to split a piece of plastic into two by gradually flexing it until it breaks.
Therefore, I have concluded it is a hardware problem, but I don't know exactly what.
I apologize if I'm difficult to understand, and if you need any clarification, let me know.
Thank you everyone for your time.
-Kevin
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Kevin,
Yeah, seems like a hardware issue. But I advise not to "flex" the back too much
Probably could be 2 things.
1. Loose connector for the digitizer
2. Bad digitizer
3. Something grounding out against the case.
So my guess would be to spit the case apart. You can find videos on Google Search showing the procedure at You Tube. Then a good inspection of components, paying attention to connectors and the boards (for cracking).
I saw the other day that there are plenty of parts available for the 500, like digitizers, display glass and several other items. Check E-bay.
MD
Moscow Desire said:
Hey Kevin,
Yeah, seems like a hardware issue. But I advise not to "flex" the back too much
Probably could be 2 things.
1. Loose connector for the digitizer
2. Bad digitizer
3. Something grounding out against the case.
So my guess would be to spit the case apart. You can find videos on Google Search showing the procedure at You Tube. Then a good inspection of components, paying attention to connectors and the boards (for cracking).
I saw the other day that there are plenty of parts available for the 500, like digitizers, display glass and several other items. Check E-bay.
MD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your advice Moscow Desire. I've taken the back off before but noticed nothing unusual. Should I just take every component that can be separated out and inspect it? Sounds like a recipe for disaster for an inexperienced person like me.
ktong747 said:
Thanks for your advice Moscow Desire. I've taken the back off before but noticed nothing unusual. Should I just take every component that can be separated out and inspect it? Sounds like a recipe for disaster for an inexperienced person like me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Moscow Desire,
I have taken my tablet apart with the instruction from the videos but I didn't see anything that is loosen so far. Do you think I will need to unscrew everything until I take out the screen to know what's wrong? My screen keeps flickering with white lines at the edge of the screen and it's really annoying. :crying:
Thanks!
I want to open my N10 up, but I really don't know how much force to be using to separate the back from the screen (seems like it would require an extreme amount of force).
I have a suction cup attached to the screen, and I have the screw off the back. From there, I assume I would start at a corner and just press it downward to try to get the back off? Should it require a lot of force? Does the back bend, or should it?
Do a search, got to be videos on you tube.
Sent from my MB855 using xda premium
rbeavers said:
Do a search, got to be videos on you tube.
Sent from my MB855 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only thing I can find is the PowerMedic teardown, which doesn't explain how much force should be needed still...
I'd rather hear from someone personally how hard it was to open their N10.
espionage724 said:
Only thing I can find is the PowerMedic teardown, which doesn't explain how much force should be needed still...
I'd rather hear from someone personally how hard it was to open their N10.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search youtube( google nexus 10 gets clean) shows the rear cover being removed. I couldn't post a link because I don't know how to! Hope it helps if
Lipp24 said:
Search youtube( google nexus 10 gets clean) shows the rear cover being removed. I couldn't post a link because I don't know how to! Hope it helps if
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Found it
Hmm, I'll have to see if I have a separating tool, but that doesn't look like too much force was used at all.
Finally got it open. Was a huge pain to do with a credit card (basically destroyed it mostly), but I started with the top-middle edge, and worked my way around from there. Biggest pain was to get the bottom edge off, but I managed to get that off after a while.
So, I just noticed that my Pogo connection area, there's a pin broken. From left-to-right, it's the 5th pin. Why is this?
espionage724 said:
Finally got it open. Was a huge pain to do with a credit card (basically destroyed it mostly), but I started with the top-middle edge, and worked my way around from there. Biggest pain was to get the bottom edge off, but I managed to get that off after a while.
So, I just noticed that my Pogo connection area, there's a pin broken. From left-to-right, it's the 5th pin. Why is this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean on the inside of the N10 there is a pin broken? I looked at those powerbook medic photos which its hard to get an angle on that area, but it didnt look like any of the inside pin connections were missing, so are you saying it looks intentionally not connected/separated?
bigmatty said:
Do you mean on the inside of the N10 there is a pin broken? I looked at those powerbook medic photos which its hard to get an angle on that area, but it didnt look like any of the inside pin connections were missing, so are you saying it looks intentionally not connected/separated?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's like a 3-piece system in the Pogo cable area. The N10 shell has the 5 pin area and has metal contact sheets on the inside for those pins. The N10 itself then has strips of metal I think above metal contact points. The strip of metal that should come in-contact on the N10 itself is cut-short on the 5th pin.
Probably not the best explanation though. I think I saw a post on the Pogo cable thread of someone mentioning this.
espionage724 said:
It's like a 3-piece system in the Pogo cable area. The N10 shell has the 5 pin area and has metal contact sheets on the inside for those pins. The N10 itself then has strips of metal I think above metal contact points. The strip of metal that should come in-contact on the N10 itself is cut-short on the 5th pin.
Probably not the best explanation though. I think I saw a post on the Pogo cable thread of someone mentioning this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know there was a post about the pogo charger that included pictures, and in the picture one of the pins was either missing or shaded. the discussion assumed it was missing and gave theorys on why. (all perfectly reasonable as I remember.) BUT I just got a pogo in the mail a couple days ago and, at least this vesion, has all its pins. im guessing there is a couple ways the pogo "port" could be utilized, so a variety of combinations would certainly make sense.
but as for that cut short you're talking about, does it look machine done? like if its a ribbon-like material does the notch made in it look perfectly made such that it was done by machine? or does it look jagged or snagged? if it looks machine made Im sure its intentional. if it looked jagged or snagged Id be concerned that is on accident.
EDIT: i ask/say "ribbon like material" but same basic thought process for me re: metal extensoin posts - does the "cut" look like it was done with some sort of grinding device that would leave the pins as "not sharp" or does it look cut like when you flex metal a bunch and it snaps or if you use wire cutters how it leaves a jagged edge.
/my .02
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Afternoon all,
So yeah I'm loving this phone greatly, but I've noticed something horrible for a phone so well made.
If anyway else owns one can you please check if your headset has a tiny gap ( Im really do mean tiny gap) between the front metal casing and
the cream looking plastic band around the phone. So were the headjack and on switch is . . . .
I noticed it last night and if I press the back and front together the gap closes.
After speaking to P4U they said no one else has rang in with such problem and they said they would exchange it wen more arrive in stock.
I ended up going in store were I discover they ave one there but is a pre ordered handset. The guy did open it up and checked both handsets.
They new one did also have a tiny gap but not as bad?
Bit shocked as I havent really used the phone alot as Im still using my S3 till I pay my contract off.
Anyone else got this?7
Cheers
Re: HTC One Owners check it out!
I have read somewhere 2 weeks ago it is a problem for some demo set. But seems it existing on retail phone now. Also I heard iphone5 has such problem but people think it acceptable.
So maybe other users can give their view.
And you would better to have a clear photo upload others can judge.
mmx6688 said:
I have read somewhere 2 weeks ago it is a problem for some demo set. But seems it existing on retail phone now. Also I heard iphone5 has such problem but people think it acceptable.
So maybe other users can give their view.
And you would better to have a clear photo upload others can judge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What would be best way to post a photo on here? I havent actually needed to do it before?
Re: HTC One Owners check it out!
There was another thread on this exact issue. It is very small, but then again these phones aren't exacty cheap. So should be uniform all around.
Sent from a galaxy far away!
ILS_SuperNova said:
What would be best way to post a photo on here? I havent actually needed to do it before?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Select Quick Reply and then Select Go Advanced. Over at the top, click on the attachment incon (looks like a paper clip) and browse to where ever the photo is saved
Re: HTC One Owners check it out!
I got mine today, have looked but not used the phone yet. On both the top and bottom, I can squeeze and a hairline gap will come together, but I don't think this is a problem really. It is negligible and it probably won't have any impact at all, the phone still seems premium and solid in the hand, and it is not like they advertise it as being waterproof or anything in which case this would be an issue.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
I have a slight gap on the top, nowhere else though, and its very slight, I keep a case on it at all times though, so no big issue
Ive put two links to photos I took. Hopefully the links work. One is with gap and then me pushing the edges together . . .
Re: HTC One Owners check it out!
ILS_SuperNova said:
Ive put two links to photos I took. Hopefully the links work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't work for me
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAFc/34GVNAI3mKc/s661/20130319_152241.jpg
Hopefully these work. Gap
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAFg/LjpkmfaPpBs/s496/20130319_152305.jpg
me pressing gap together
ILS_SuperNova said:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAFc/34GVNAI3mKc/s661/20130319_152241.jpg
Hopefully these work. Gap
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAFg/LjpkmfaPpBs/s496/20130319_152305.jpg
me pressing gap together
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If that was my phone I would send it back but that's just me.... hope mine is ok when I get home later on.
This gap may be engineered to provide for thermal expansion differences between glass and aluminum
Definitely looks like a defect to me. Lint, dust, water etc could all get in there very easily and cause problems down the line. I'd get it replaced.
ILS_SuperNova said:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAFc/34GVNAI3mKc/s661/20130319_152241.jpg
Hopefully these work. Gap
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAFg/LjpkmfaPpBs/s496/20130319_152305.jpg
me pressing gap together
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i would say its fine i have something familiar on my One X between the metal rim holding the screen and the unibody
believe me you have not seen defects this is nothing compared to last year
i would keep it, can i?
llothar said:
This gap may be engineered to provide for thermal expansion differences between glass and aluminum
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My mates htc one had zero gap all the way around.
Yeah I maybe abit paranoid on this matter. After seeing the other newly opened htc one and seeing that also had a little gap then I though maybe
its just the way its made. I will see hopefully thursday if more come into stock.
Re: HTC One Owners check it out!
If I'm looking at the same thing is u on top of the phone theres a very very small gap between the metal casing and plastic filler.
Can't see I'm bothered about a gap of 0.25mm though. I don't think I'd ever want a replacement.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
This photo is posted by others sometime ago.
But this kind of gap also on other phones, like S4.
llothar said:
This gap may be engineered to provide for thermal expansion differences between glass and aluminum
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can definitely confirm such behavior in my One X, it expands a little from heat
but by design? i don't know, HTC promised zero gap didn't they?
Thread title is misleading: please change it.
Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?
bert682 said:
Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.
bert682 said:
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?
You need a different screen if you want to fix it.
bert682 said:
Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen
lopezk38 said:
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea I took it all apart and while the new one was connected I was able to connect the old one, upside down etc. It worked OK. Did a bit of a blow and properly pressing down on the connectors.
I could accept the screen is at fault at return it but when the issue is not 100% of the time I know my luck will be that when it gets tested at the sellers end it will work, get sent back to me and be broken again.
Have some monitoring apps running now so I can tell of its heat. Since this side is away from the battery im less incluined to think its heat from that. The motherboard does run down that side so it could be something in that? Ever seen any reports of that getting too hot?
Could even be heat from the antenna cable somehow?
Strange that it spans the whole length though.
Ill risk the return I think, got a video of it being broken so will see what happens.
Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.
Planterz said:
Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.
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Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?
bert682 said:
Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interestingly enough , the original digitizer is wrapped with aluminum tape. Some knockoffs have a better cover in fact. They use a hard aluminum sheet instead of aluminum tape. Some knockoffs don't have that shielding which is bad because that tape is there to keep the IC from getting spammed with useless data by radio frequencies and such.
If you haven't dropped your device , i don'T think it is likely that there is a problem with the glass. It's most likely the IC.
You could transfer your old flex to your new glass which is easy but you need some seriously steady hands.
When you remove the glass from the frame , you will see the flex cable's contact zone. It's basically the part where it connects to the glass. If you heat that area up with a heat gun it's gonna come right off when the solder beneath melts. Take out the new one and the old one. You need a flathead tip for your solering iron , which is like a flathead screwdriver. Simply take some solder and spread that solder around the contact dots , don't worry it won't stick to the plastic but it will melt if you keep it at the same spot too much. When you're done spreading , there are two dots with which you can align your old flex cable to your new glass. Use some adhesive tape around the alignment dots and Align the dots with your flex cable (you'll know which dots when you see it because it's orange and kinda stands out) press it so the adhesive holds and then use your heat gun and melt the solder to the contact zone.
It's actually easier than it sounds.