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Okay. It seems that Blu Products isn't going to explain anything about the dock port on their Studio 5.3, so I am embarking on a project to reverse engineer it. I'll update my progress here.
Pictures of the dock port:
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Pictures of the plug that fits it. It's the same 30-pin plug as found on the iPod and a bunch of other devices.
(Last 3 images from https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8295)
What I just ordered to work on this project:
(Again from https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8295)
Here's what I've figured out so far.
The cable from my iPod Nano 6th gen has pins 1, 15, 16, 23, 25 and 27. All others are missing. I haven't had time to analyze it all yet, but according to allpinouts.org, 1 is a ground, 15 and 16 are grounds and are tied together (internally on the iPod motherboard), 23 is USB +5v, and 25/27 are USB Data+/- OR, alternately, they are resistor-to-ground value-based signals.
My theory so far is that there is some internal resistance between the pins in this cable and other pins or ground; because plugging just the cable in--with it not being plugged into the USB port--disables the Blu's touchscreen and automatic screen rotation features and locks the screen in whatever position it's in when you plug in the cable. (Although interestingly, if you plug it in in landscape mode, you can use the screen rotation lock hardware button to put it back to portrait mode.) Plugging the other end of the cable into a USB port brings up the Recent Apps display (the thing that comes up when you hold the touchscreen home button down) and the phone says it's charging, but the touchscreen is still disabled. Not sure if it's actually charging or not; I'm gonna leave it plugged in for awhile and see. The phone does not show up as a new USB device when this (iPod) cable is plugged into the dock port.
Once I get the breakout board I'm gonna take the phone apart and see if I can trace where the pins in this dock port go. I'm also going to wire up a USB cable to the breakout board and see if I can get the phone to enumerate.
Hopefully I never toast my phone.
Edit for more pics from teardown:
Notice that this ribbon cable is 3 layers; those are little pieces of a paperclip holding them apart to show the layers.
It really looks like PDMI connector
If it IS a PDMI connector, would getting a usb-to-pdmi cable work to connect to the phone? I've never used pdmi. I know the Dell Streak has a pdmi port though.
You should open it to see what chips are used in that thing. That will help you a LOT to figure out what is going on...
lvnr00tddrd said:
If it IS a PDMI connector, would getting a usb-to-pdmi cable work to connect to the phone? I've never used pdmi. I know the Dell Streak has a pdmi port though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have both Dell Streak 5 and Blu Studio 5.3 and I can comfirm that the pdmi cable for the Streak does not fit in the Studio 5.3.
The ports on both are the same width and same number of pins but the Streak's pins are arranged on 2 wedges, for lack of a better term, whereas the Studio and ipods are 2 rows of pins on both sides of a single wedge. It's like the Streak has a female type port and the Studio/ipods have male type ports.
This could be some kind of dock connector that Blu has not released for our version. I've been doing some research on this phone to find the original recovery firmware and found that this exact phone is being sold under the following names:
Blu Studio 5.3
Texet TM-5200
Umeox X-Land / X-5
Pearl Simvalley SPX-5
On every "rebranded" listing I found they all had this port so it isn't just unique to the Blu. Also might try seeing if anything can be found for the MTK6573 chipset that would include this port. More info on this chipset here mediatek.com /en/Products/ featured_content.php?sn=2 {will have to copy / paste too new to post links yet}.
I've also found other indications through russian and chinese sites that this thing is being pushed in some countries as an iPhone knockoff with a custom "iOS" skin / launcher. Hard to tell for sure due to some things being lost in translation.
So to wrap it all up I would almost go for a crazy guess that this might be used on some of the "iPhone" knockoffs to fake as a 30-pin connector that may or may not actually work or only work for charging.
Its seems like its a docking port for a keyboard. I found this for Pearl Simvalley SPX-5 site found at http://www.pearl.de/a-PX3502-4072.shtml.
Now we know. I think I may import one of these to see if it works on the Blu as well. Might be disabled in the firmware though....
Just got the PodBreakout board. To the soldering station I go. Send good karma my way.
I took the entire thing apart. Everything is under full-board metal shields as can be seen from the recent post-op pic. (You can also see the breakout board.) My phone still works, so I'm not prepared to go pulling the shields off just to see what's under them. I think that the only things would be the MediaTek CPU and some RAM and Flash chips anyway. Everything else is pretty tightly integrated.
Puppeto if you get ahold of one of those keyboards please keep us updated.
Behold the wonders of voiding your warranty:
Ok here's what I've figured out so far.
1. Make sure if you take your phone apart that you reconnect all the connectors inside the phone, or else you'll spend an hour trying to figure out why the dock port won't work at all before realizing what you did.
2. Onward to real research, here's what's been found so far.
Connecting pin 15 to 16 disables the touchscreen, but there is a threshold that must be met that I haven't found yet. If the 2 pins are directly tied together the touchscreen is disabled, and if there's a 3k resistor between them it is, too. But if there's a 100k resistor inline it doesn't disable the touchscreen.
Pin 1 appears to be a ground pin.
Pin 16 is USB ground
Pin 23 is USB +5 volts
It DOES charge when just Pins 16 and 23 are connected. My next step is to find which pins are the USB Data +/-. As can be seen below, it's non-standard.
Connecting Pin 27 to ground presses the hardware multifunction button (bottom middle of the front panel)
Pin 6 to ground presses hardware power key
Pin 29 to ground presses hardware volume down key
Pin 28 to ground is an oddball. Connecting it to ground through a 10k resistor seems to start the music player AND press the hardware volume up key
Connecting pin 9 to ground with a resistor less than 4k causes a white screen followed by a black screen and the phone freezing until the battery is removed.
Audio
Pin 3 - Audio Ground
Pin 4 - Audio Right
Pin 5 - Audio Left
The audio pins appear to be connected to the same lines as the headphone jack, only they don't have the hardware external speaker disable (or if they do I haven't found it yet). Apparently, the headphone hardware triggers a software signal of some kind that disables the external speaker. I confirmed that this is the case by plugging in a set of headphones, in which case these lines still give the audio output but the external speaker is disabled. Apparently this is something that can be controlled from within Android, because there were some bug reports awhile back about the external speaker not disabling when headphones were plugged in. So we need to find (or maybe someone can write?) an app that does nothing but disable the external speaker while leaving the headphone line active.
No luck yet on getting USB working. Still hoping someone here can help me out with knowing how to monitor what's going on by using adb?
Puppeto any luck on that keyboard?
FYI received the keyboard, plugged it in, and YES it works. Didn't receive a prompt or anything when I plugged it in. I opened up a notepad app and just started typing away.
I do forewarn you though it is very cheaply made. Not something I would recommend anyone wasting their time or money on. I found it faster to just type on the screen.
Puppeto would you mind taking the keyboard apart and taking some high-res pictures of it? It would be very very helpful I think because it will have the data lines and possibly some other stuff
Please guys, is there no one trying to get flash working on this phone?
Adobe flash player worked great, however it need some mod
First install MX player then it will ask for special codec, so install them as recommended.
then you need to install UC browser ( try latest version )
Finally install flash 10.3.185.360_armv6.apk from xda
run uc browser, everything fine.
My only concern is Video skype, I couldnt run any version of skype that enables Video call please can anybody help
Hi guys,
As you can see I'm new at the forum, but I have a Motorola Atrix 4G, Rooted, Unlocked BOOTLOADER, and with the NOTTACHTRIX ROM Installed with the Darks Side Kernel....
I also recently bought a Blu Studio D510, and I have an issue with play music...
I tried with several music players, and I'm still not success...
All the type of files that I tried are .mp3 and .wma
Do you know were I need to put the files in order to used the music player?
Thank You...
Can someone please provide the ROM without the bloated softwares(facebook, twitter etc.). Just the barebone os. Reason for this is I can then install apps I want and move them to memory card. More memory available.
Found this link which seems to be the ROM. Can someone verify: http://www.pearl.de/support/product.jsp?pdid=PX3459&catid=4073&nodocs=1
chrismotto said:
Can someone please provide the ROM without the bloated softwares(facebook, twitter etc.). Just the barebone os. Reason for this is I can then install apps I want and move them to memory card. More memory available.
Found this link which seems to be the ROM. Can someone verify: http://www.pearl.de/support/product.jsp?pdid=PX3459&catid=4073&nodocs=1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its not the rom. If you are willing to try some other roms for this device (i cant find a blu rom either), search for either the umeox x3 original rom or the texet tm-5200 original rom. the umeox is in chinese and the texet is in russian but change the language in the options and change the launcher and everything should be fine. I have found the texet to be a little lighter and faster, however, i couldnt get any of the drivers to work for it. umeox uses the spx-5 drivers which windows is able to find easily. Im looking for a rom for the pearl simvalley spx-5 phone which is another clone and uses the same hardware, but i havent any luck yet. right now, though im using the umeox which also was able to be rooted with SOC and its working fine so far.. hope i could help
virustwin
Please share the link to this ROM. Thanks a lot.
Hey you all can anyone please supply me with a link to obtain the actual stock rom for the blue studio 5.3 or even a custom rom would be of great help thanking you in advance
Sent from my BLU Studio 5.3 using xda app-developers app
Ok, so i'm ordering a replacement digitizer and I figure this would be a good time to try this out.
As you all know, we Kindle Fire owners have neither expandable storage or bluetooth. Hashcode's new 3.0 kernel has the proper kernel modules/support for USB hosting. Instead of having to plug things in every time I need/want extra storage I figure that i'll try and hook up the stuff inside.
So here's what I figure i'll do when I get all the materials:
I already have a mini bluetooth USB dongle that i've disassembled.
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And i'll be getting a mini USB microsd adapter that I can tear apart down to the same type of thing as the bluetooth dongle.
Now, the easy part is finding space to put them, there are a few gaps/spaces that I found for the bluetooth dongle, and placing the microsd adapter should be just as easy.
The hard part is getting the wiring all wired up on the inside, and this is where I need advice/input. Trying to solder the wires to the pins on the charge/USB port would be too hard and risky since they're so close.
I took apart one of my extra mini-b USB cables to use the pins to try and hook them up like that some way, but I don't have everything I need yet, so it's just a thought.
Ideas, advice, thoughts and/or comments?
Also, I will be documenting what i'm doing so that I can post a tutorial if I succeed.
I've also posted this in the Hardware Hacking subsection of the General board to see if they can give me any insight. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=25212394
Many microSD slots have something like a contact that closes only if the microSD is inserted in, activating the reader. You can check this or buy a microSD slot that have this switch built in.
alan110112 said:
Many microSD slots have something like a contact that closes only if the microSD is inserted in, activating the reader. You can check this or buy a microSD slot that have this switch built in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you referring on what the poster said in the other thread I made about the reader needing to be plugged in after the sd is inserted?
If so i'm not 100% sure that will be an issue. The sd will already be in when the Kindle starts up. If it is an issue I might use a small switch of some sort, but i'm hoping for a more elegant solution if the problem arises.
If u do this and open ur kindle than it will look scratched from sides
Sent From my Kindle Fire
Setupetails are Below
Cm7 Barebones+Raven's Kernel
Minimum:300 Higher 1200mhz
Go launcher Ex With MIUI Theme
Games:MC3,Fifa 2012,Real Racing 2,Stick Cricket,Gangster Rio....
Apps:Mx Video Player,JetVid,Titanium Backup,Opera Mobile,Dolphin HD,Adobe Reader
ma.da.ladla said:
If u do this and open ur kindle than it will look scratched from sides
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've already opened it and put it back together like 5 times and I haven't scratched it. You just need the correct tools and a little experience opening devices.
aaricchavez said:
I've already opened it and put it back together like 5 times and I haven't scratched it. You just need the correct tools and a little experience opening devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then I will too if u succeeded.are u planning to solder SD slot to the pins of data cable/charging pins
Sent From my Kindle Fire
Setupetails are Below
Cm7 Barebones+Raven's Kernel
Minimum:300 Higher 1200mhz
Go launcher Ex With MIUI Theme
Games:MC3,Fifa 2012,Real Racing 2,Stick Cricket,Gangster Rio....
Apps:Mx Video Player,JetVid,Titanium Backup,Opera Mobile,Dolphin HD,Adobe Reader
ma.da.ladla said:
Then I will too if u succeeded.are u planning to solder SD slot to the pins of data cable/charging pins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the issue i'm trying to solve. The charge port fits snuggly in a little slot. To solve that i'll probably have to grind that part back some to make a little space for the wires. I will probably use the pins from a USB cable and put some solder on the tip of each one to get them to stay. Then i'll connect some thin wires to the pins, and to the adapter.
I ordered them, but I don't have any more spare USB cables or the sd adapter yet, so I can't do a ton as of this moment.
I'm about to do a little experimenting, if I find a solution i'll take a pic to post.
Which why I'm thinking giving my kindle to my wife and buy a full pack tablet., although might be interesting to see if it work, or just buy those cheap made table with lower specs and which those micro SD card slot etc,... old smart phone would be a nice to get all your parts needed...anyway good luck to your project..
Hey, I'm tring to do this to my Galaxy Nexus as well, minus the bluetooth dongle. If you were able to solder the wires to the usb port, do you think you would be able to get the kindle to see the micro sd?
Are you not concerned that this will affect charging?
brizey said:
Are you not concerned that this will affect charging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Charging wouldn't bother me too much as I can easily pick up another battery with an external charger. Now for the kindle, that might be a different story...
from my experience if you tap onto those pins and short 4&5 together, it would indeed mount on reboot!
but have you thought that if the usb port is in permanent otg mode how will you charge/use adb/and mount usb to pc?
for that i think you will need a switch to separate the otg short.
also at the minute i don't know if there would be enough power to be able to operate the flash drive tapping onto the out pins is the same as plugging in a otg cable/adaptor and as of yet most (if not all) flashdrives need additional power source.
that being said someone mentioned that linux double the safety limit for the max power draw, so i think that maybe some dev-god (hash) would need to alter something in the kernel to lower the safety threshold.
as you pointed out in previous post where to put all those wires
and switch?
not sure but the bluetooth could work but probably with the same issues as above .
hope this helps (i'm not trying to burst your bubble as i like a little hardware Modding myself) but i think you should put your efforts & skills into a slim useable adaptor or something, which pack's all those goodies but 1.can be removable and 2. if you f$+k up your soldering as i have lots on my otg adaptors then its not good bye mr kindle
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda premium
I must have missed the email notification of replies :/
Muddog7998 said:
Hey, I'm tring to do this to my Galaxy Nexus as well, minus the bluetooth dongle. If you were able to solder the wires to the usb port, do you think you would be able to get the kindle to see the micro sd?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, as long as USB host is working.
brizey said:
Are you not concerned that this will affect charging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tested it and so far it does not affect charging.
Muddog7998 said:
Charging wouldn't bother me too much as I can easily pick up another battery with an external charger. Now for the kindle, that might be a different story...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read above.
lovejoy777 said:
from my experience if you tap onto those pins and short 4&5 together, it would indeed mount on reboot!
but have you thought that if the usb port is in permanent otg mode how will you charge/use adb/and mount usb to pc?
for that i think you will need a switch to separate the otg short.
also at the minute i don't know if there would be enough power to be able to operate the flash drive tapping onto the out pins is the same as plugging in a otg cable/adaptor and as of yet most (if not all) flashdrives need additional power source.
that being said someone mentioned that linux double the safety limit for the max power draw, so i think that maybe some dev-god (hash) would need to alter something in the kernel to lower the safety threshold.
as you pointed out in previous post where to put all those wires
and switch?
not sure but the bluetooth could work but probably with the same issues as above .
hope this helps (i'm not trying to burst your bubble as i like a little hardware Modding myself) but i think you should put your efforts & skills into a slim useable adaptor or something, which pack's all those goodies but 1.can be removable and 2. if you f$+k up your soldering as i have lots on my otg adaptors then its not good bye mr kindle
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got the wires soldered onto the pins no problem, I just can't get USB host to work at all, I haven't tested since build #6(I think)(I used some modules someone posted that they compiled) of Hashcode's kernel though. I know I didn't mess up soldering cause USB still works as well as charging, and I get a reading on a multimeter when I test the + & - leads.
I've thought of a solution for turning off USB host easily, all it requires is a magnet and a reed switch/s. Read below.
Also, my main goal is to get storage working, after that I might try bluetooth and/or gps over UART(read below)I've ordered about 10 different microsd adapters, some of which claim to need no power(confused me at first lol, I think they meant no external power), anyways, my point is microsd cards require very little power to run, so I think they'll work. If power is an issue I can just take a couple of resistors and such and power the adapter straight from the battery.
Other thread was created here, just want to keep all the threads up to date: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1632277
aaricchavez said:
The UART modules are only an idea, the main problem with going that direction instead of USB host is the drivers the modules would need(They all usually come with generic ones, but they would need to be customized for Android). I have very limited code/coding knowledge so I would need alot of help or soeone to do that part completely. I was going to pm Hashcode for help if I decided to try out the UART modules. Also, i'm unsure if more than one module can be used at the same time.
Like I just posted in the thread i'm still waiting on some stuff to arrive to actually get started on the USB host attempt. I have the wires soldered to the USB/Charge port pins, but since I don't have the microsd adapter or any more spare cords to rip apart I can't go further. I ordered about 10 different mini microsd adapters to take apart and see which works out the best.
Other people have USB host working, so shouldn't be difficult. I've just never used USB host before so i'm not real sure of what to expect.
The only downside is that there needs to be a switch of some sort somewhere to disable USB host so that adb/storage will work. I'm trying to think of something a little more elegant that having a huge hole in the case with a switch protruding out of the side. I'm going to go searching for some solutions and a super small switch.
All the UART GPS modules I found when searching "uart gps module" on Google are mostly from India and are between $30-50ish, the receivers look to be about the size of a quarter.
*http://robokits.co.in/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=289
*http://robosapiensindia.com/robomar...n=com_virtuemart&Itemid=64&vmcchk=1&Itemid=64
*http://robosapiensindia.com/robosap...ategory_id=27&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=64
I decided to look on Sparkfun and adafruit and i'm glad I did, it looks like they both have some modules, but I haven't looked around and dug through them yet.
*http://www.sparkfun.com/categories/4
*http://www.adafruit.com/category/35_58
All the optimism aside i'm not all too sure that we could get the GPS UART module to work. From what I see (First picture: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1471813) the UART output that Hashcode put into use only has two GNDs a TX and RX. The modules that I found all look like they need 8 connections. Adafruit has a nice pic of the connections labeled here: http://www.adafruit.com/products/746
If you're talking about microsd UART modules, as mentioned in the thread I created, someone made the point that it wouldn't make much sense because speeds would be way too low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
aaricchavez said:
I hate to double post, but I found the perfect solution for the switch. A reed switch or two plus a small magnet will work wonders
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8642
Edit: Here are the switches that I am buying, they're the cheapest spdt reed switches I could find: http://www.newark.com/hamlin/mdrr-dt-15-20-f/switch-reed-spdt-co-1-5a-175vdc/dp/24C6463
This will allow USB host to be activated constantly and then deactivated easily with a neodymium magnet to use adb, USB storage and whatnot.
I'm pleased that I found such an elegant solution, no need to mess up the housing to put in a switch
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey everyone. I have been working on an in-dash Nexus 7 install in my 2010 Jetta Wolfsburg, and I thought I would share my progress as I go in case any one else was considering this for their car. I did a similar install with the original Samsung Galaxy Tab in my 1998 BMW 540i which can be seen on bimmerforums if you're interested. Just search E39 Android Tablet Install.
The first think I did was to buy a double din kit from Metra for about $12 from ebay. I took a Dremel to this and modified it by cutting off the center piece as well as all 4 clips on the corners. Then I got some Plastic Weld made by JB weld from Home Depot and started to shape the bezel like I wanted it to be for the Nexus 7. To get this to be flat and mate with the tablet nicely, I had to take a nail file and sandpaper and fill/sand/fill/sand etc until I got it to be as flat as I could. This is what it looked like at first:
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I then added more to the bottom molding to give the tablet some support from the sides as well. I think this will help in keeping it stable. These are depicted by the yellow arrows. The filing/sanding I was talking about was referring to the red lines in the pictures. I am trying to get these surfaces to be as flat as possible so that the tablet will mate closely with the bezel.
I plasti-dipped the bezel, which FYI matches remarkably well with the interior plastic. Then I attached elastic bands traversing each other diagonally to hold the tablet to the bezel. In addition, I attached magnets around the bezel, which can be seen as the black circles around the edge. I will explain why I did this in more detail as I continue with the install. I also started messing around with the tablet to make it how I would want it in the car. I am using the 2013 Nexus 7 running Paranoid Android so that I can customize every app individually. I put the buttons on the side and made them red to match the interior. One thing that I am happy about is that the way that I chopped up the bezel, I left the camera, light sensor, and notification light open to be used. This way I could even do video calls (granted I will be looking at the road) which might be pretty cool. Here are some more pictures:
I then removed the stock headunit.
This gave me more room to work. I bought a CR2-VW2 harness by PAC from one of the VW forum members. This harness allowed me to connect an aftermarket headunit and retain the stock audio system (amp, speakers etc) but did not include steering wheel controls, which I did not need anyway. I chose the Alpine UTE-42BT for a few reasons. First, it is only $88 which is very reasonable. Secondly, it doesn't have a CD player which is good since that feature would never be used anyway. It has a front auxiliary port and bluetooth handsfree built in, which will allow me to use handsfree from the tablet. I will explain the intricacies of this in a more detailed write up when the project is completely done. As of right now, this is how it is looking:
Pardon the mess, the project is ongoing =) As of right now, the tablet is running on battery, but I am planning on setting it up so that it receives power when the car starts, thus turning on the screen, and when the power shuts off, the screen timeout of 7 seconds will kick in. I'm realizing that 16GB is not a lot of space for something I want to keep music on, so I recently bought a USB OTG cable to mount external storage and I'm waiting for that to arrive. Does anyone have experience with using USB OTG that could provide some insight into this? Will Google Music pick up on the media on the USB storage and add it automatically if I use Stickmount or something like that? I'm going to see how that works out before I decide I need to buy a 32GB Nexus 7 instead. To charge it (if USB OTG works, meaning that the micro USB port will be taken), I will get a wireless charger and plug that into the cigarette lighter for power. If USB OTG doesn't work, I will power it directly using micro USB. One thing I would recommend to anyone trying this is to pick up a ground loop isolator, since charger and using auxiliary at one can lead to some interference. There should be more to come over the next week as I get some more of these peripheral supplies. It sounds great though, and the functionality is far superior to the stock headunit.
Very amazing. I've a plan to put a tablet of some sort in one of my cars! you beat me to it long ago seems like! I wanted to connect my rasberry pi to some sort of 7inch touchscreen!
but this is wayyy nicer.
PROPS!
Reminds me of Statham's Audi from Transporter. Looks pretty futuristic.
Kookas said:
Reminds me of Statham's Audi from Transporter. Looks pretty futuristic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My friend just got the statham harcut
Awesome work samboner, keep us updated on your progress!
7786 said:
Awesome work samboner, keep us updated on your progress!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude, leave me alone! Unless you're here to answer my USB OTG questions. Otherwise, back to leaving me alone Olley.
Looks good, but otg and charging will not happen unless a kernel supports it.
They got it working on the 2012 n7 so most likely will happen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
BrianDigital said:
Looks good, but otg and charging will not happen unless a kernel supports it.
They got it working on the 2012 n7 so most likely will happen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm this for wireless charging and USB OTG. On mine the wireless charging cuts off when the OTG cable is plugged in.
7786 said:
Awesome work samboner, keep us updated on your progress!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BrianDigital said:
Looks good, but otg and charging will not happen unless a kernel supports it.
They got it working on the 2012 n7 so most likely will happen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PMentior said:
I can confirm this for wireless charging and USB OTG. On mine the wireless charging cuts off when the OTG cable is plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh shoot, you can't do wireless charging and USB OTG at the same time? That is going to be a major problem for me. Well I'm glad I didn't buy a wireless charger yet. The USB OTG is working out like a charm, but I definitely need to have a long term charging solution. I don't want to have to take it in and out. Do any of you know if anyone is working on a kernel that allows USB OTG and wireless charging simultaneously?
faruqster said:
Oh shoot, you can't do wireless charging and USB OTG at the same time? That is going to be a major problem for me. Well I'm glad I didn't buy a wireless charger yet. The USB OTG is working out like a charm, but I definitely need to have a long term charging solution. I don't want to have to take it in and out. Do any of you know if anyone is working on a kernel that allows USB OTG and wireless charging simultaneously?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you somehow use Bluetooth instead of OTG?
Options!
I made a steering wheel interface for Androids, n7 primarily.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2206156
For one, I can tell you that you can Charge and use USB OTG if you install the right kernel.
read here too
http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=2113259
I haven't tried the pogo pins and USB OTG together, that might work. Otherwise there are a few options.
(to be clear, the best option would be a kernel that allows USB OTG and charging, at the same time. )
:good: First, probably best, Buy an adjustable regulator like this : http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/adjustable-dcdc-power-converter-125v-35v3a-p-1534.html and adjust it to 3.9Volts (lipo used in tablet works between 3.7v and 4.2v) , use the always on BATT 12v input. Then remove the back cover of the N7, remove the battery, and power it directly from the car. http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+7+Teardown/9623/1 It looks like the black, yellow and red wires would be Ground, Vcharge and Vout, but you'd need to verify. You'd probably have to cut the wire. You might want to order a replacement on Ebay to use. You can then use tap to wake to turn the screen on or a USB micro setup like the one I made to tell the tablet to turn on/off with the key (act as if a keyboard was plugged in and you hit the power key).
Second, and most tricky. USB OTG uses pin 5 as the sense pin for Host/Client. IF you don't intend to use Host mode all of the time, like just when pressing a steering wheel button, you could use a Microcontroller to trigger the mode.
Third, Would be to charge when the car is off, and USB host when the car is on. Again this comes down to using pin5, or if you follow Kuchar09's post he has a wire diagram for this.
---------- Post added at 01:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:14 PM ----------
Sorry, I just realized yours is a 2013 version. Same deal, not sure about the kernel, but someone will make one. Also not sure about the touch control, it needs kernel modules to work, so again compatible kernel.
BUT my first option, still the best work around.
Here is the tear down http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+7+2nd+Generation+Teardown/16072/1 and you can see the battery still uses wires. you'll need to test what they are. Powering the tablet with a regulator in place of the battery would be ideal.
...
http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/wireless/seagate-satellite/
That would solve the problem.
fzelle said:
http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/wireless/seagate-satellite/
That would solve the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, my first thought was a wifi HDD as well. Just give it power and put it somewhere out of the way. personally, I'd wire it and put it in/under the glove box for easy media adding/removal.
I've done this in several vehicles so far.
What are you doing about heat in a parked car in the sun? At 90 outside, in my sons car ( lighter colored cloth interior ) it's approx 110-115 in the car. In my 350z with black leather, it's over 120 inside.... With the hookup you have going, making that a removable mount would be pretty easy with a pair of nice magnets to snap that entire enclosure and tab into place. Makes it nice when you have to leave the car in the sun for any amount of time, or to work on it, etc.... I've seen 1 screen physically crack, and a 2nd device just flat out die. Something to keep in mind depending on where you live.
As far as the power issues.... I use tasker. When the power is cut to the device, I force it into deep sleep and airplane mode. It will go for 2 weeks+ sitting there idle without dying. When the power is fired up, wake up ( no lock screen ), and set the screen to full bright and no timeout. No need to hack the device. A kernel for this would be great like the orig N7 had, but until we get one, this will work too.
Also, don't go BT to a head unit IF you care about the sound quality ( compressed audio sucks and if you have a good system, you'll hear the difference ). Go with a DAC ( from 30 to 300 bucks depending on what you get ). The sound quality will be much better then using the compressed BT crapola. Or even go out via the head phones, it's still much better then BT.
Just some things I've come across doing this for a few years now with various devices.
Oh yea.. and put an anti glare screen protector on it. Play with them to find the right one, or your screen will be invisible when you have glasses on. IPads do the exact same thing. Once you go into landscape mode, black screen ( put on your shades and just turn it, you'll see.... it sucks )..
fzelle said:
http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/wireless/seagate-satellite/
That would solve the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Coronado is dead said:
Yeah, my first thought was a wifi HDD as well. Just give it power and put it somewhere out of the way. personally, I'd wire it and put it in/under the glove box for easy media adding/removal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How exactly do these wifi hard drives work? Can I connect to a wifi hotspot while using one of these? How exactly is the storage mounted? Do you have to use a file explorer to access the files, or will Google Music be able to find the media automatically? ie media scanner
rkennison said:
I've done this in several vehicles so far.
What are you doing about heat in a parked car in the sun? At 90 outside, in my sons car ( lighter colored cloth interior ) it's approx 110-115 in the car. In my 350z with black leather, it's over 120 inside.... With the hookup you have going, making that a removable mount would be pretty easy with a pair of nice magnets to snap that entire enclosure and tab into place. Makes it nice when you have to leave the car in the sun for any amount of time, or to work on it, etc.... I've seen 1 screen physically crack, and a 2nd device just flat out die. Something to keep in mind depending on where you live.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good advice. Yeah, that's the plan with the magnets I built into the bezel. I am going to put some metal/magnets in the cavity where the tablet will go and I'll use those to put the tablet/bezel combination in and out.
rkennison said:
IAs far as the power issues.... I use tasker. When the power is cut to the device, I force it into deep sleep and airplane mode. It will go for 2 weeks+ sitting there idle without dying. When the power is fired up, wake up ( no lock screen ), and set the screen to full bright and no timeout. No need to hack the device. A kernel for this would be great like the orig N7 had, but until we get one, this will work too.
Also, don't go BT to a head unit IF you care about the sound quality ( compressed audio sucks and if you have a good system, you'll hear the difference ). Go with a DAC ( from 30 to 300 bucks depending on what you get ). The sound quality will be much better then using the compressed BT crapola. Or even go out via the head phones, it's still much better then BT.
Just some things I've come across doing this for a few years now with various devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking about rolling on battery alone, but I thought it would be nice to run it from a charger. I'm realizing that there physically isn't room to use the micro USB port, so I think I will use a wireless charger. I figured I would use Tasker to turn the timeout off, turn on the wifi and bluetooth, and other stuff like that with power, and reverse it when the power drops out. I am planning to use the auxiliary output for now.
rkennison said:
IOh yea.. and put an anti glare screen protector on it. Play with them to find the right one, or your screen will be invisible when you have glasses on. IPads do the exact same thing. Once you go into landscape mode, black screen ( put on your shades and just turn it, you'll see.... it sucks )..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is definitely something to think about. Are there any brands you would recommend or have experience with?
You could also mount a 120mm fan behind it for when it's hot. Heck, I bet the fan could run while the car is off and draw next to nothing from the battery. You would only need to run the fan at a few hundred rpm as well.
Fiio makes some pretty good ones without breaking the wallet. You can bypass the charging issues by just going headphone jack into the DAC, then into your headunit via an aux port (3.5 or RCA, they make DACs for each). You can go with a USB DAC as well, but I think there are driver requirements and crap to deal with on top of the power issues when hooking up via the N7s usb port. Just sounds messy so I've not tried it that way.
I pulled the HU from my son's completely and go from DAC right into the amp ( well into a crossover first so I can pull the sub frequencies into a separate amp as well ).
I kept my HU in. I just like having the 2 7" screens on the dash so I can still have full nav on the HU and music on the N7.
Oh and I just checked, the spigen ultra crystal screen protectors will cure the landscape sunglass issue. I'm sure others will as well, but I can verify these.
The hdd's create a hotspot the tablet would connect to. I don't know how the tablet would react as far as scanning media. You could soft link the files from the hard drive to the tablet if it doesn't just recognize cans play them. The Seagate is dlna compatible so it should be easy to play from.
A small fan would be easy enought to cool the tablet, you could even have a temp sensor on it, think attic fan, that would just come on automatically. Also of you follow my suggestion and remove the battery, and power it right from the car, the back cover would be off so cooling would be easier.
I run my system phone to Bluetooth (Sony sbh20) straight to my amps, it sounds great. All this bs about USB DAC's is mostly BS. The tablet has a DAC inside its what is converting the 1's and 0's to music. Yeah it might not be the best DAC on the market but I don't think its the source of bad sound quality on most any unit.
I personally am not a fan of hiding a deck just for the amp inside of it. This basically makes zero sense. However many new factory sound systems have the head unit specially eq'd to make the crappy speakers sound good. You might have to get new speakers to make a direct tablet -> amp -> speaker method sound good.
I did car audio for 10yrs I know a bit about it.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4
That is beautiful! I want to do that so bad but I change tablets too much. So here's my option, bluetooth and all.
2013 N7 Kang Banged!
Hello all, I am new to this forum. I brought my thread over here because on the forums I post on normally for my car they seem to have 0 interest in the subject. My goal is to receive help from you guys, as well as maybe help any of you out! So to start off with a little history of the car. The car is a 2004 Mustang with non-mach stereo. I Currently have a single din radio and 2 amps (1 for door speakers, other for 2 12" subs), and all upgraded speakers and wiring. I have always wanted a touch screen radio and navigation, so that i did not have to use my phone the whole time while driving. I was looking into pioneers and alpine double dins, but for the features i wanted i couldn't justify spending 1200 bucks. So that left me at the same place i started at. I started browsing tablet installs when i discovered one of the guys i follow on instagram put a Ipad Mini into his dash. This really got me thinking about what i could do, so after about 6 months of juggling the idea, and doing some heavy research about which tablet to use and which Roms were best for in-car installation i found the Nexus 7. And that Triggered this build, which i will regularly update as the build goes on.
So to start off this is the list of stuff that i will need or have acquired, acquired is marked with blue, and will also have the price and total at the end. Items that have unknown prices are ones that i have not decided what to get or cant find what i want.
Need/Have:
- Nexus 7 2013 (32gb) (115.00 - Staples)
- Timurs Rom (28.94 - Donation)
- Clarion EQS746 (54.49 - Amazon)
- Behringer UCA202 USB DAC (29.99 - Amazon)
- 2X DC-DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W Double USB Output Power Adapter (11.99 Ebay)
- USB Hub - Powered (unknown)
- Back-Up Camera (16.87 - Ebay)
- Easy Cap (Unknown)
- FM transmitter (Unknown)
- PlexiGlass (21.99 - Lowes)
- RCA Cables (6.99 - Radioshack)
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter (4.99 - Amazon)
- OTG Cable with Power (3.99 - Amazon)
- Micro USB to USB (6.98 - Amazon) Need this to connect the right angle to the OTG cable
- Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (9.29 - Amazon) Need this for parts of the mounting method
- Metra 70-5520 Wiring Harness (4.49 - Amazon) This is to connect power
- Hard Snap on Case (4.29 - Amazon) Part of Mounting Method
Total Price: $320.20
This list is for stuff previous to nexus 7 install/as well as some apps for in dash installation:
Hifonics Hfi1000.1d (129.99 - Amazon)
Hifonics ZRX600.4 (93.00 - Amazon)
LI12D4 - Incriminator Audio 12" x 2 (508.00 - Amazon)
Beautiful Widgets Pro (3.63 - Play Store)
Tasker (2.99 - Play Store)
Nova Launcher Prime (4.00 - Play Store)
GMD Auto Hide Pro (2.49 - Play Store)
Total Price: $744.10 - Most of this is tied up up in speakers/amps.
I chose Timurs rom because of the dedicated support forums, and the amount of followers behind the build, This rom allows for fixed installation, which is most likely what ill be doing. It enables OTG so i can hook up a USB hub to it, and have access to back up camera, music storage, and also play audio through the DAC.
As far as mounting method for the tablet will be doing away with the radio completely and putting the tablet in its place like so (Imagine it behind the bezel lol)
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"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
For mounting I stumbled upon different ways that people have accomplished and didnt like any of them, most of them stayed out of the bezel, and the ones that were in the bezel were fixed and was not easy to remove.... then i found this build, i loved the idea of having it fixed, but then again easily removable if need be!
Subaru In-Car Install - Mounting
So that is when i started to build this!
It is pretty messy looking right now, but i will be painting it black so that it will blend with the case, and look like it is meant to be their.
I have a bunch of parts coming in the mail this week, that is the only thing that is holding up the In-Car process of the build.
I had a bunch of free time yesterday so i decided to start working on the UI for the tablet. I found a build that someone had done in a BMW that i really liked, and they even posted their PSD file for it. I began Chopping it to meet my own personal needs and build, and came up with this!
On the Tablet side, i just used it as a background and created invisible widgets that were placed onto the "Icon" and directly linked to the corresponding app. After i got all of that worked out, and added some widgets to the screen and removed the navigation bad i decided to work with tasker a little bit. I wanted the device to stimulate when power is off to key, and when power is on to key. So i created two different profiles and added task to each, they are as follows.
Power ON:
Airplane Mode - Disabled
Display Timeout - 23hrs
Display Brightness - 158
Popup - Welcome Back
Media Volume - Level 14 of 15
Bluetooth - ON
GPS - On
Wifi - On
Auto Sync - On
Power OFF:
Popup - Booting into Low Power Mode
Display Timeout - 15s
Wait 10s
Bluetooth - Off
Auto-Sync - Off
Wifi - Off
Music - Stop
Airplane Mode - On
TaskKill - Chrome/Maps/Pandora/Spotify/PowerAmp
Go Home
Some Video Action
I will update this regularly, if you have any questions comments or anything else please post below in fact i encourage it!
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
Looks good!
In regards to your female aux issue, has your main head unit got more than one aux input? If so there is your answer. If not I know turtle beach used to supply a female 3.5 to 2ph piggy back which would do it just make sure the tablet is muted first.
ratykat said:
Looks good!
In regards to your female aux issue, has your main head unit got more than one aux input? If so there is your answer. If not I know turtle beach used to supply a female 3.5 to 2ph piggy back which would do it just make sure the tablet is muted first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am getting rid of the Radio unit all together. Using the USB DAC to send audio to an EQ which has an input from the DAC, and the AUX input. The EQ has a physical push button to switch between Main IN and the AUX IN inputs. So i wanted to Run a Female connector to the center console so that i could just plug in an male cord to the Female Input and hook that up to anyone's phone if they wanted.
Sounds like you're already there then. What was it that you were uncertain of about it?
ratykat said:
Sounds like you're already there then. What was it that you were uncertain of about it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How to mount the Aux... I cant find a RCA to Female Aux that allows it to be fixed installed.
EDIT:
LIKE THIS!!!! But Cheaper lol, i dont care for the aftermarket USB + Aux either..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-Audio-XMC-3-5MM-PNL-3-5-mm-Panel-Mount-Jack-connects-aux-cable-/301084428008?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item461a07c6e8
BurningCanine said:
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
why not use the factory installed aux. Simply solder the cable inline with the factory cables and then hook it up to the aux of the clarion. you don't have to cut the cables just simply splice into them but make sure your connections are good and there is no cold solder as your sound quality is going to depend on it. you can also do the same with the USB, if you car has one, most of the time there is an extension mid way in the center console.
I am in the process of doing mine and I ran into that same plexi 2din case attachment...I might be going that route too as it can all be removed as one unit. I am also adding LEDs for the powers of each device. I will be able to troubleshoot faster knowing what may be wrong, ex: led for step down, led for otg, led for each usb hub, but hopefully nothing goes wrong. Good luck on the project. I too will be using Timur 2013 lollipop, it only makes sense to you use it since I have no idea how to compile something like that.
btw, if you are going to have all that incased inside that plexi box, you should consider getting a 5v/0.21amp Usb powered cpu fan to keep things cool in there, just connect it to the hub.
butwhydoitalk2u said:
why not use the factory installed aux. Simply solder the cable inline with the factory cables and then hook it up to the aux of the clarion. you don't have to cut the cables just simply splice into them but make sure your connections are good and there is no cold solder as your sound quality is going to depend on it. you can also do the same with the USB, if you car has one, most of the time there is an extension mid way in the center console.
I am in the process of doing mine and I ran into that same plexi 2din case attachment...I might be going that route too as it can all be removed as one unit. I am also adding LEDs for the powers of each device. I will be able to troubleshoot faster knowing what may be wrong, ex: led for step down, led for otg, led for each usb hub, but hopefully nothing goes wrong. Good luck on the project. I too will be using Timur 2013 lollipop, it only makes sense to you use it since I have no idea how to compile something like that.
btw, if you are going to have all that incased inside that plexi box, you should consider getting a 5v/0.21amp Usb powered cpu fan to keep things cool in there, just connect it to the hub.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aux was not an option in my year mustang. The plexiglass just helps keep the components in one place, if i ever decide to rip it out when i sell the car. I am running into an issue on where to install the EQ however.
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
ratykat said:
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I havent bought into yet. I am still considering my options and to see if there is a way around it. I got most of ny pieces for the build in already, but i have yet to mess around with it. I am assuming a custom lolli rom, something like cleanrom with experimentalx, might be all I would need, but your needs may be different. I'll start my own thread once I have everything in order.
As far as the aux...just buy an extention aux male to female or for a more professional look and even more functional they sell receptacles that take the place of your cigarette lighter, unless you need one of those, that offer an aux and usb. You can run a usb powerd from the step down to charge phone or usb extension from usb hub for music.
Also, the fan is to dissipate the heat that is going to build up from your car sitting in the sun and the greenhouse effect the plexi is going to give your electronics. Just my opinion. The EQ can be mounted in any position from under the dash to inside the glove box. The one thing to consider is how often you are going to access the knobs on it. If you are going to do it frequently then it needs to be mounted somewhere in plain view. I am not too familiar with the car. Good luck on the build though.
ratykat said:
Is this any good to you?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Input-Flush-Mount-female-auxiliary/dp/B00C6AGSDU
I'm interested in how you guys are finding Timurs build considering it's the first build I've seen that's paid for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was mostly interested in Timurs due to the huge support behind him, and all of the drivers, and programs already built into his Rom/Kernal. It just made it so much more simple to me. Also for that Aux Cable, i want to retain a factory look, and i cant see that being very factory looking inside my center console. I think i will end up using the JBL one that i posted earlier, it looks more factory than the rest and i can ensure that the quality is the highest.
butwhydoitalk2u said:
I havent bought into yet. I am still considering my options and to see if there is a way around it. I got most of ny pieces for the build in already, but i have yet to mess around with it. I am assuming a custom lolli rom, something like cleanrom with experimentalx, might be all I would need, but your needs may be different. I'll start my own thread once I have everything in order.
As far as the aux...just buy an extention aux male to female or for a more professional look and even more functional they sell receptacles that take the place of your cigarette lighter, unless you need one of those, that offer an aux and usb. You can run a usb powerd from the step down to charge phone or usb extension from usb hub for music.
Also, the fan is to dissipate the heat that is going to build up from your car sitting in the sun and the greenhouse effect the plexi is going to give your electronics. Just my opinion. The EQ can be mounted in any position from under the dash to inside the glove box. The one thing to consider is how often you are going to access the knobs on it. If you are going to do it frequently then it needs to be mounted somewhere in plain view. I am not too familiar with the car. Good luck on the build though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im going to run temp activated fan i think to control when it gets to hot. Seems the best for me since it can be on when the car is off to keep it a little cooler in the summer. That small of a fan wouldnt drain the battery too fast either. AS far as the EQ, i chose this EQ because of the physical Volume nob. Im thinking that i am going to end up moving the buttons for my Fogs, Defrost and Traction control down, and glass the EQ in their spots.
Well, i went to install the tablet today. Ended up breaking the OTG cable so i have another one on the way by saturday. Will update when it comes!
Sorry to hear that. You must have done something sever though, all my usb otg cables have been attacked with the Dremel to get it in the tight space I havevand they're fine :S
That aux I posted up is what you asked for, cheaper. If you have a fold down cigarette tray then it could easily hide in there and still look OEM. The jl audio one you posted looks like it takes over the 12v supply with that cap in it, so if have a quick measure.
Whilst we are on the subject of 12v, what have you done for power? I'm looking at running a usb charger off the back of my lighter/12v so you can't see it in the future. Just curious if you've taken power from elsewhere.
In regards to kernels I run glitch on a stock 5 build and that does usb otg audio and fast charge absolutely fine. The only issue I've seen so far is occasionally I have to reboot for the audio to switch back to the DAC. Let me know how you get on with Timurs and if it's worth buying
ratykat said:
Sorry to hear that. You must have done something sever though, all my usb otg cables have been attacked with the Dremel to get it in the tight space I havevand they're fine :S
That aux I posted up is what you asked for, cheaper. If you have a fold down cigarette tray then it could easily hide in there and still look OEM. The jl audio one you posted looks like it takes over the 12v supply with that cap in it, so if have a quick measure.
Whilst we are on the subject of 12v, what have you done for power? I'm looking at running a usb charger off the back of my lighter/12v so you can't see it in the future. Just curious if you've taken power from elsewhere.
In regards to kernels I run glitch on a stock 5 build and that does usb otg audio and fast charge absolutely fine. The only issue I've seen so far is occasionally I have to reboot for the audio to switch back to the DAC. Let me know how you get on with Timurs and if it's worth buying
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable didnt break, but the tip of the OTG cable did. When i was installing i had to bend it a little to go into a notch i made in my console, well it bent to much and wouldnt work anymore. I may try and shave the supporting rubber around it and make a right angle from it.
Yeah looking more and more of it, i think im going to go with the JL one because i have a cigarette lighter outlet in the bezel on my dash that doesn't work that well, so i will just replace it with that. As far as power, i had bought 2 DC-DC 15w 3a usb chargers that you wire directly to a 12v supply, turns out that they didnt work so im contacting the seller to see if it is my fault they dont work or just faulty. If it turns out that it does not work regardless of what i did i am going to go to radio shack and pick up an accessories socket and glue it to the inside of the box i made so it wont be seen. Turns out that the harness i bought from metra has a power and a ground and it will shut off and turn on as the key is turned. So if it comes down to it i will hook it up to that. Also seeing as my remote on wire wont be connected to anything i hooked that up to the power to the radio as well and piggy backed the EQ remote on from it. I will let you know what happens with the power though, i have it currently hooked up to the cigarette lighter that doesn't work all the time, and it seems to be doing fine.
As far as timurs rom goes, it has everything i want in one rom. It has all the files for backup camera, it has power management, DAC doesnt have any issues, it is a seamless product with all the necessities i needed in one build. One of the reasons i went towards that rom is because of the amount of stuff in one place that i wouldnt have to hunt for!
Its all finished for the time being, i will start adding on the other things later on as i need them.
Im looking for a super super thing auxiliary cable. I litteralt have the space of two quaters. Tried removine all the rubber and folding but still the mettal part is too long
dude this is awesome!!
I wish I knew how to make stuff like this, I own a 04 Mustang and damn it now I wanna have my N7 there lol
BurningCanine said:
Hello all, I am new to this forum. I brought my thread over here because on the forums I post on normally for my car they seem to have 0 interest in the subject. My goal is to receive help from you guys, as well as maybe help any of you out! So to start off with a little history of the car. The car is a 2004 Mustang with non-mach stereo. I Currently have a single din radio and 2 amps (1 for door speakers, other for 2 12" subs), and all upgraded speakers and wiring. I have always wanted a touch screen radio and navigation, so that i did not have to use my phone the whole time while driving. I was looking into pioneers and alpine double dins, but for the features i wanted i couldn't justify spending 1200 bucks. So that left me at the same place i started at. I started browsing tablet installs when i discovered one of the guys i follow on instagram put a Ipad Mini into his dash. This really got me thinking about what i could do, so after about 6 months of juggling the idea, and doing some heavy research about which tablet to use and which Roms were best for in-car installation i found the Nexus 7. And that Triggered this build, which i will regularly update as the build goes on.
So to start off this is the list of stuff that i will need or have acquired, acquired is marked with blue, and will also have the price and total at the end. Items that have unknown prices are ones that i have not decided what to get or cant find what i want.
Need/Have:
- Nexus 7 2013 (32gb) (115.00 - Staples)
- Timurs Rom (28.94 - Donation)
- Clarion EQS746 (54.49 - Amazon)
- Behringer UCA202 USB DAC (29.99 - Amazon)
- 2X DC-DC Converter Module 12V To 5V 3A 15W Double USB Output Power Adapter (11.99 Ebay)
- USB Hub - Powered (unknown)
- Back-Up Camera (16.87 - Ebay)
- Easy Cap (Unknown)
- FM transmitter (Unknown)
- PlexiGlass (21.99 - Lowes)
- RCA Cables (6.99 - Radioshack)
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter (4.99 - Amazon)
- OTG Cable with Power (3.99 - Amazon)
- Micro USB to USB (6.98 - Amazon) Need this to connect the right angle to the OTG cable
- Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (9.29 - Amazon) Need this for parts of the mounting method
- Metra 70-5520 Wiring Harness (4.49 - Amazon) This is to connect power
- Hard Snap on Case (4.29 - Amazon) Part of Mounting Method
Total Price: $320.20
This list is for stuff previous to nexus 7 install/as well as some apps for in dash installation:
Hifonics Hfi1000.1d (129.99 - Amazon)
Hifonics ZRX600.4 (93.00 - Amazon)
LI12D4 - Incriminator Audio 12" x 2 (508.00 - Amazon)
Beautiful Widgets Pro (3.63 - Play Store)
Tasker (2.99 - Play Store)
Nova Launcher Prime (4.00 - Play Store)
GMD Auto Hide Pro (2.49 - Play Store)
Total Price: $744.10 - Most of this is tied up up in speakers/amps.
I chose Timurs rom because of the dedicated support forums, and the amount of followers behind the build, This rom allows for fixed installation, which is most likely what ill be doing. It enables OTG so i can hook up a USB hub to it, and have access to back up camera, music storage, and also play audio through the DAC.
As far as mounting method for the tablet will be doing away with the radio completely and putting the tablet in its place like so (Imagine it behind the bezel lol)
For mounting I stumbled upon different ways that people have accomplished and didnt like any of them, most of them stayed out of the bezel, and the ones that were in the bezel were fixed and was not easy to remove.... then i found this build, i loved the idea of having it fixed, but then again easily removable if need be!
Subaru In-Car Install - Mounting
So that is when i started to build this!
It is pretty messy looking right now, but i will be painting it black so that it will blend with the case, and look like it is meant to be their.
I have a bunch of parts coming in the mail this week, that is the only thing that is holding up the In-Car process of the build.
I had a bunch of free time yesterday so i decided to start working on the UI for the tablet. I found a build that someone had done in a BMW that i really liked, and they even posted their PSD file for it. I began Chopping it to meet my own personal needs and build, and came up with this!
On the Tablet side, i just used it as a background and created invisible widgets that were placed onto the "Icon" and directly linked to the corresponding app. After i got all of that worked out, and added some widgets to the screen and removed the navigation bad i decided to work with tasker a little bit. I wanted the device to stimulate when power is off to key, and when power is on to key. So i created two different profiles and added task to each, they are as follows.
Power ON:
Airplane Mode - Disabled
Display Timeout - 23hrs
Display Brightness - 158
Popup - Welcome Back
Media Volume - Level 14 of 15
Bluetooth - ON
GPS - On
Wifi - On
Auto Sync - On
Power OFF:
Popup - Booting into Low Power Mode
Display Timeout - 15s
Wait 10s
Bluetooth - Off
Auto-Sync - Off
Wifi - Off
Music - Stop
Airplane Mode - On
TaskKill - Chrome/Maps/Pandora/Spotify/PowerAmp
Go Home
Some Video Action
I will update this regularly, if you have any questions comments or anything else please post below in fact i encourage it!
Also i am looking for ideas to install a Female input AUX into my Center Console for a factory look into the EQ, anyone know how?
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Click to collapse
How did you get the nexus 32 gb for $115??
kbrn said:
dude this is awesome!!
I wish I knew how to make stuff like this, I own a 04 Mustang and damn it now I wanna have my N7 there lol
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Click to collapse
Lol, Wasnt that hard at all. If you want to do the build i can hook you up with all the information and resources to get u where u need to be.
lucky_strike33 said:
How did you get the nexus 32 gb for $115??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Local Staples had them on clearance, had trouble with register taking my card. Manager gave me 15% Discount for my troubles.
UPDATE: System works fine so far, only one little bug that i am working out. GPS and wifi connect and work properly, USB DAC works flawlessly, charger works well. The little bug is that when the tablet comes out of firm sleep the buttons dont seem to work except the back button. Dont know what it is but im looking into it.
Where do I buy Timur for my nexus 2013? I went onto his website but couldn't find the donation or download option?
so i have a somewhat similar install in my e39. I am doing 3.5mm to RCA right now, i want to make the switch over to USB OTG.
What specific parts do I need to make it work??
PS I have a pre-amp RCA input processor that it has to connect to.
Just a place holder for now. I rec'd my test/sample unit today. I took it out of the box just long enough to snap a photo or 2 to send to a friend. Nothing detailed worth posting here yet. I'll try to take better photos this evening, and might even try to get wired into the truck.
Of note: It looks just like the NU/NR3001. Same screen size, same buttons. It also came with a dash cam with a dedicated harness/plug. I haven't investigated the underlying connection type (USB, Composite, etc).
Will post more details and clean up this OP as I do.
Thanks two-head/three-arms. Looking forward to it!
First look. I have a few software/language issues to solve before I put this in my truck, but here's a quick runthrough:
I can't watch properly at work but those Bonovo apps look very familiar.
Antutu Score: 31896
http://imgur.com/a/nu84T#mwhpSCN
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Antutu Score: 31896
http://imgur.com/a/nu84T#mwhpSCN
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Click to collapse
Hey. It is not clear, and where a slot for a SIM card. Look on their website in China http://www.newsmy-car.com/product/showproduct.php?lang=cn&id=75
Thanks for posting. I am wondering if they packaged the main board in an NR housing as the new one is not yet ready, and this is a sample. Just a guess as the one on the web page looks a little different and it definitely needs a slot for a sim card. Seems like they made very little change to the MCU portion if the same code runs on it; stating that based on version number. Dash camera specific slot is of course new but all other cables are identical to the ones I received with my NR. If you get a chance please test USB behavior on shutdown. Thanks!
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Antutu Score: 31896
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw a post just now about the Joying x86 Sofia units getting 21901, so that score seems pretty damn good.
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely looks hacked together. The main board is much smaller than the NR one. I think they would take advantage by packaging in a smaller chassis. No heatsink on the one you have; the NR one is not adequate as is if you run all four channels at moderate to high volumes.
Does it really only have 1 GB RAM, as listed on the webpage?
Be careful with the USB you order. Several people have had issues with cables longer than 3ft. You should have gotten a second USB cable with it and too bad they did not give you the 5.1 cable (sticker shows it has the output).
hello, I am also curious. the Carpad 4 has really only 1 GB of RAM and 16 GB of internal space ?? For me to have 1 GB would be a total regression.
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I saw is a failure . The device really is not ready at all. And what they want from you? What is the test? Here it is necessary to refine the mind is still lots and lots. 1GB of RAM is not serious at all. My NU 1GB of memory and I want to buy a new unit with 2GB of RAM, 1GB is not too much and not enough.
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where do you think the SOC is? I think it must be on the same board as the sim (underneath the MCU board or on the underside) as the SOC they are using has built in 4g/Bluetooth/wifi and all the antennae are all originating off that board. I am guessing that black overhang off the back are the external 4g antennae?
This is my Carpad 4 . It has simcard slot in the unit. We need to open cover to insert simcard - this is so fun! And we have somethings more:
1- This unit haven't Chplay to install app from market; may be in final version they will update this. I have only head unit for tester
2 - xposed additions (one of the most interesting module for exposed framework on our car) will not work at all. So we can't use this exposed addition module to do something as carpad 3. We will ask Newsmy do keyeditor can function as addition xposed.
3 - Ram 1Gb - this is downgrade product from carpad 3
The good new is Camera has got verry good quantily (HD camera 720p or 1080P)
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I have this unit in my hand, so if someone needs more pictures , I will take
The 1GB seems to be the only real downside so far. But, that may or may not affect real world performance. I'm still trying to sort out a few things before I put it in the truck full time. Then I can see if the RAM degrades performance.
The camera additions are pretty neat, and I'm waiting to see how this 'New Yan' remote app works (I can't get logged in).
I cut their rear camera harness and tried to wire in my existing OEM rear cam (I REALLY don't want to run their camera to the back of my truck!), but that didn't work on my initial test. The front/DVR cam is pretty neat. I was able to sideload Waze, and will make another stab at sideloading Google Play services this weekend.
I'll take some more pics/videos when done.
I know some are dismissing this device due to the 1GB, but I'd suggest holding off on judgement. What myself and @ngochoangimsat have is an early engineering build. If we give them good feedback, the final product might be well worth having.
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
What myself and @ngochoangimsat have is an early engineering build. If we give them good feedback, the final product might be well worth having.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I'm hoping. I still think the NR is a pretty great device with xdAuto on it (with the stock ROM I could never get it to stop reporting "Main activity has stopped".
Unrelated I am curious about the relationship between Bonovo and Newsmy. Is Bonovo a supplier to Newsmy. The MCU board on the 4 actually says Bonovo, not Newsmy!
Another test video:
I also came up with a really crazy idea. I was working on a friends NR5002 getting ready for his install next week. Realize that all the Nu/NR and Carpad4 chassis and screens, etc. should be interchangeable. I have an NU5002 with no android box to power it... and of course I prefer the 8" screen to the 7" universal so ......
Tearing them all down now.... Could be able to make a Carpad4 version of my NU5002
Well, crap. I broke it.
The 8" screen from NU5002 does work. The chassis parts are not quite as interchangeable as I had hoped. I could force it to work, but still had a few too many issues to solve, so I went to put it back together in original form. Unfortunately, the LCD ribbon connector is in a vary precarious spot and it evidently lifted away from the board at some point during my trials. I tried to superglue it back to the board, and can get video to display if I put just the right amount of pressure on the cable, but as soon as I let go, it quits.
Back to square one.
Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Well, crap. I broke it.
The 8" screen from NU5002 does work. The chassis parts are not quite as interchangeable as I had hoped. I could force it to work, but still had a few too many issues to solve, so I went to put it back together in original form. Unfortunately, the LCD ribbon connector is in a vary precarious spot and it evidently lifted away from the board at some point during my trials. I tried to superglue it back to the board, and can get video to display if I put just the right amount of pressure on the cable, but as soon as I let go, it quits.
Back to square one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry, it is possible that it will come in handy.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=60056637&postcount=3864
Very interesting, I too have a NU5002 and would love an 8" version. Is it still mostly empty with circuit boards on the bottom? This would help me as I need to modify the case and maybe remove the screen from the rest to make it fit in my car.
Software wise, is it lollipop with a kit kat base like I've seen other manufacturers do?
Syncing text from phone to head unit seems like a neat feature. Any idea of back porting it to previous units? Honestly that should already be implemented in Android natively.