Database Users

Reverse engineering the Blu Studio 5.3 dock port

Okay. It seems that Blu Products isn't going to explain anything about the dock port on their Studio 5.3, so I am embarking on a project to reverse engineer it. I'll update my progress here.
Pictures of the dock port:
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Pictures of the plug that fits it. It's the same 30-pin plug as found on the iPod and a bunch of other devices.
(Last 3 images from https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8295)
What I just ordered to work on this project:
(Again from https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8295)
Here's what I've figured out so far.
The cable from my iPod Nano 6th gen has pins 1, 15, 16, 23, 25 and 27. All others are missing. I haven't had time to analyze it all yet, but according to allpinouts.org, 1 is a ground, 15 and 16 are grounds and are tied together (internally on the iPod motherboard), 23 is USB +5v, and 25/27 are USB Data+/- OR, alternately, they are resistor-to-ground value-based signals.
My theory so far is that there is some internal resistance between the pins in this cable and other pins or ground; because plugging just the cable in--with it not being plugged into the USB port--disables the Blu's touchscreen and automatic screen rotation features and locks the screen in whatever position it's in when you plug in the cable. (Although interestingly, if you plug it in in landscape mode, you can use the screen rotation lock hardware button to put it back to portrait mode.) Plugging the other end of the cable into a USB port brings up the Recent Apps display (the thing that comes up when you hold the touchscreen home button down) and the phone says it's charging, but the touchscreen is still disabled. Not sure if it's actually charging or not; I'm gonna leave it plugged in for awhile and see. The phone does not show up as a new USB device when this (iPod) cable is plugged into the dock port.
Once I get the breakout board I'm gonna take the phone apart and see if I can trace where the pins in this dock port go. I'm also going to wire up a USB cable to the breakout board and see if I can get the phone to enumerate.
Hopefully I never toast my phone.
Edit for more pics from teardown:
Notice that this ribbon cable is 3 layers; those are little pieces of a paperclip holding them apart to show the layers.

It really looks like PDMI connector

If it IS a PDMI connector, would getting a usb-to-pdmi cable work to connect to the phone? I've never used pdmi. I know the Dell Streak has a pdmi port though.

You should open it to see what chips are used in that thing. That will help you a LOT to figure out what is going on...

lvnr00tddrd said:
If it IS a PDMI connector, would getting a usb-to-pdmi cable work to connect to the phone? I've never used pdmi. I know the Dell Streak has a pdmi port though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have both Dell Streak 5 and Blu Studio 5.3 and I can comfirm that the pdmi cable for the Streak does not fit in the Studio 5.3.
The ports on both are the same width and same number of pins but the Streak's pins are arranged on 2 wedges, for lack of a better term, whereas the Studio and ipods are 2 rows of pins on both sides of a single wedge. It's like the Streak has a female type port and the Studio/ipods have male type ports.

This could be some kind of dock connector that Blu has not released for our version. I've been doing some research on this phone to find the original recovery firmware and found that this exact phone is being sold under the following names:
Blu Studio 5.3
Texet TM-5200
Umeox X-Land / X-5
Pearl Simvalley SPX-5
On every "rebranded" listing I found they all had this port so it isn't just unique to the Blu. Also might try seeing if anything can be found for the MTK6573 chipset that would include this port. More info on this chipset here mediatek.com /en/Products/ featured_content.php?sn=2 {will have to copy / paste too new to post links yet}.
I've also found other indications through russian and chinese sites that this thing is being pushed in some countries as an iPhone knockoff with a custom "iOS" skin / launcher. Hard to tell for sure due to some things being lost in translation.
So to wrap it all up I would almost go for a crazy guess that this might be used on some of the "iPhone" knockoffs to fake as a 30-pin connector that may or may not actually work or only work for charging.

Its seems like its a docking port for a keyboard. I found this for Pearl Simvalley SPX-5 site found at http://www.pearl.de/a-PX3502-4072.shtml.

Now we know. I think I may import one of these to see if it works on the Blu as well. Might be disabled in the firmware though....

Just got the PodBreakout board. To the soldering station I go. Send good karma my way.
I took the entire thing apart. Everything is under full-board metal shields as can be seen from the recent post-op pic. (You can also see the breakout board.) My phone still works, so I'm not prepared to go pulling the shields off just to see what's under them. I think that the only things would be the MediaTek CPU and some RAM and Flash chips anyway. Everything else is pretty tightly integrated.
Puppeto if you get ahold of one of those keyboards please keep us updated.
Behold the wonders of voiding your warranty:

Ok here's what I've figured out so far.
1. Make sure if you take your phone apart that you reconnect all the connectors inside the phone, or else you'll spend an hour trying to figure out why the dock port won't work at all before realizing what you did.
2. Onward to real research, here's what's been found so far.
Connecting pin 15 to 16 disables the touchscreen, but there is a threshold that must be met that I haven't found yet. If the 2 pins are directly tied together the touchscreen is disabled, and if there's a 3k resistor between them it is, too. But if there's a 100k resistor inline it doesn't disable the touchscreen.
Pin 1 appears to be a ground pin.
Pin 16 is USB ground
Pin 23 is USB +5 volts
It DOES charge when just Pins 16 and 23 are connected. My next step is to find which pins are the USB Data +/-. As can be seen below, it's non-standard.
Connecting Pin 27 to ground presses the hardware multifunction button (bottom middle of the front panel)
Pin 6 to ground presses hardware power key
Pin 29 to ground presses hardware volume down key
Pin 28 to ground is an oddball. Connecting it to ground through a 10k resistor seems to start the music player AND press the hardware volume up key
Connecting pin 9 to ground with a resistor less than 4k causes a white screen followed by a black screen and the phone freezing until the battery is removed.
Audio
Pin 3 - Audio Ground
Pin 4 - Audio Right
Pin 5 - Audio Left
The audio pins appear to be connected to the same lines as the headphone jack, only they don't have the hardware external speaker disable (or if they do I haven't found it yet). Apparently, the headphone hardware triggers a software signal of some kind that disables the external speaker. I confirmed that this is the case by plugging in a set of headphones, in which case these lines still give the audio output but the external speaker is disabled. Apparently this is something that can be controlled from within Android, because there were some bug reports awhile back about the external speaker not disabling when headphones were plugged in. So we need to find (or maybe someone can write?) an app that does nothing but disable the external speaker while leaving the headphone line active.
No luck yet on getting USB working. Still hoping someone here can help me out with knowing how to monitor what's going on by using adb?

Puppeto any luck on that keyboard?

FYI received the keyboard, plugged it in, and YES it works. Didn't receive a prompt or anything when I plugged it in. I opened up a notepad app and just started typing away.
I do forewarn you though it is very cheaply made. Not something I would recommend anyone wasting their time or money on. I found it faster to just type on the screen.

Puppeto would you mind taking the keyboard apart and taking some high-res pictures of it? It would be very very helpful I think because it will have the data lines and possibly some other stuff

Please guys, is there no one trying to get flash working on this phone?

Adobe flash player worked great, however it need some mod
First install MX player then it will ask for special codec, so install them as recommended.
then you need to install UC browser ( try latest version )
Finally install flash 10.3.185.360_armv6.apk from xda
run uc browser, everything fine.
My only concern is Video skype, I couldnt run any version of skype that enables Video call please can anybody help

Hi guys,
As you can see I'm new at the forum, but I have a Motorola Atrix 4G, Rooted, Unlocked BOOTLOADER, and with the NOTTACHTRIX ROM Installed with the Darks Side Kernel....
I also recently bought a Blu Studio D510, and I have an issue with play music...
I tried with several music players, and I'm still not success...
All the type of files that I tried are .mp3 and .wma
Do you know were I need to put the files in order to used the music player?
Thank You...

Can someone please provide the ROM without the bloated softwares(facebook, twitter etc.). Just the barebone os. Reason for this is I can then install apps I want and move them to memory card. More memory available.
Found this link which seems to be the ROM. Can someone verify: http://www.pearl.de/support/product.jsp?pdid=PX3459&catid=4073&nodocs=1

chrismotto said:
Can someone please provide the ROM without the bloated softwares(facebook, twitter etc.). Just the barebone os. Reason for this is I can then install apps I want and move them to memory card. More memory available.
Found this link which seems to be the ROM. Can someone verify: http://www.pearl.de/support/product.jsp?pdid=PX3459&catid=4073&nodocs=1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its not the rom. If you are willing to try some other roms for this device (i cant find a blu rom either), search for either the umeox x3 original rom or the texet tm-5200 original rom. the umeox is in chinese and the texet is in russian but change the language in the options and change the launcher and everything should be fine. I have found the texet to be a little lighter and faster, however, i couldnt get any of the drivers to work for it. umeox uses the spx-5 drivers which windows is able to find easily. Im looking for a rom for the pearl simvalley spx-5 phone which is another clone and uses the same hardware, but i havent any luck yet. right now, though im using the umeox which also was able to be rooted with SOC and its working fine so far.. hope i could help

virustwin
Please share the link to this ROM. Thanks a lot.

Hey you all can anyone please supply me with a link to obtain the actual stock rom for the blue studio 5.3 or even a custom rom would be of great help thanking you in advance
Sent from my BLU Studio 5.3 using xda app-developers app

[Q] Help! MK808 No Video

I just bought a MK808 from a guy on CraigsList. I went to his house and played with the device on his TV so I know the thing works. I messed around on it for a while and it seemed fine. Once I got home I hooked it up to my TV (Westinghouse 46" 1080p LED) and the MK808 gets a blue LED power light but nothing is showing up on my TV. I tried it on a few Computer LCDs at the house that are 1680x1050 res using an hdmi-dvi cable and I am still getting nothing. Did the unit somehow fry on my way home? Is there a way to do a factory reset without video to the MK808? Im kind of at a loss here. Im not sure what to do. The guy said I could come back to test it on his TV again but its a 45 minute drive from my place. Id like to save the gas if I can. I know this thing worked so I dont know whats going on.

change Hdmi cable.

But Ive gone from the HDMI on the TV to an HDMI-DVI for the computer monitors. So that is another cable.

spotopolis said:
But Ive gone from the HDMI on the TV to an HDMI-DVI for the computer monitors. So that is another cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But DVI reduction tend to have problems with displaying on some TVs or monitors. Probably do not recognize the resolution settings. I deal with the same problem but with HDMI to HDMI displayed correctly.

spotopolis said:
I just bought a MK808 from a guy on CraigsList. I went to his house and played with the device on his TV so I know the thing works. I messed around on it for a while and it seemed fine. Once I got home I hooked it up to my TV (Westinghouse 46" 1080p LED) and the MK808 gets a blue LED power light but nothing is showing up on my TV. I tried it on a few Computer LCDs at the house that are 1680x1050 res using an hdmi-dvi cable and I am still getting nothing. Did the unit somehow fry on my way home? Is there a way to do a factory reset without video to the MK808? Im kind of at a loss here. Im not sure what to do. The guy said I could come back to test it on his TV again but its a 45 minute drive from my place. Id like to save the gas if I can. I know this thing worked so I dont know whats going on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the bad news: This is a known issue that the MK808 works on some TV's and not on a lot of others. See this forum for some suggestions on how to POSSIBLY solve the issue: http://www.armtvtech.com/armtvtechforum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=141
The unit also has big wifi connectivity issues due to what appears to be shoddy antennas. The unit needs to have the USB power adapter upgraded or it will be under powered and not function properly. There's also a resolution issue which can be fixed with an upgrade in ROM, but you still won't get true 1080p output. First, you would need to get the unit to output video though.
The good news is that if you can solve the video output problem, ensure the proper USB power supply, upgrade the firmware ROM, and possibly do a hardware mod for the antennas, the unit works well. I have mine up and running with little to no issues. Good luck.

Well I ordered another off Ebay and when it got here it worked on my TV and both of my computer LCDs. So somehow the unit must have fried between picking it up and getting to my place.

Ive been reading up on the firmware updates. Im wondering if this "fried" stick was rooted and had custom firmware on it. It does get power. So Im wondering if I can use the update tools and flash it back to a stock unrooted updated firmware? Maybe there is still hope?

how much power does it need
i got powersupply whit 1 amp
Its only wifi is little poor for me

this site says it needs a 2A powersupply
http://www.geekbuying.com/item/MK80...ip-RK3066-Cortex-A9-Mini-PC-stick-307415.html

It needs more power.
TV USB ports dont five it enough power to do much other than boot and run services.
Try plugging the USB in to a turned on laptop or xbox or even a phone charger plug (Phone plug not good enough for 100% running)
90% of blank screens or freeze ups of MK808 are due to inadequate power supply.
Sent from my MK808 using XDA Premium HD app

Just a little comment since this thread has turned into a thread about power consumption.
I have one of those light-up USB to Micro USB cables. It has a series of EL strips, that give the illusion of "seeing" the electricity move through the cable.
It is also current sensitive, the more current, the faster the EL strips appear to sequence.
As an experiment, I used it to power my Jesurun NX003 Android stick (looks the same as iMito MX1). You can really see the different levels of power consumption for different tasks.
Even just surfing the web, you can see the current jump for a few seconds when it renders the page.
Games, HD video, make it sequence even faster.
Of course, it would also be very easy to fashion a USB cable with a break in the (+5V) line, and a couple of banana jacks so that you could connect up a DVM in Current mode.

Linuxslate said:
Just a little comment since this thread has turned into a thread about power consumption.
I have one of those light-up USB to Micro USB cables. It has a series of EL strips, that give the illusion of "seeing" the electricity move through the cable.
It is also current sensitive, the more current, the faster the EL strips appear to sequence.
As an experiment, I used it to power my Jesurun NX003 Android stick (looks the same as iMito MX1). You can really see the different levels of power consumption for different tasks.
Even just surfing the web, you can see the current jump for a few seconds when it renders the page.
Games, HD video, make it sequence even faster.
Of course, it would also be very easy to fashion a USB cable with a break in the (+5V) line, and a couple of banana jacks so that you could connect up a DVM in Current mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds cool. Do you have a link?

That sounds cool. Do you have a link?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry; Should have included that:
Also, for those in the US, these are apparently on sale at BestBuy for $12.99 (Reg $15.99)
They are available in MicroUSB, MiniUSB, and Apple 30-pin. Black or white cable (off) color. All the ones I have seen light up blue, despite being marked green, purple, etc. (I think they mean "green" as in Tree-hugger).
http://www.dexim.net/us/products/V-Green/DWA065.html
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Just an update to everyone that has tried to help, I got the device working a while back by flashing a custom ROM to it. Its running like a champ and I am currently working on a custom case mod.
I took an old WD MyBook 500GB enclosure and put a laptop 160GB SATA drive in it (to make room).
Removed the MK808 from the case and replaced the heatsink with some vram heatsinks from a aftermarket videocard kit.
Removed the cheap antennas that were soldered to the MK808 and replaced them with the antennas from an old Zoom GamePoint 4420.
I dissembled a 7 port USB hub and removed the cover.
All this will fit in the HDD enclosure with plenty of breathing room. I have had to do some soldering to make it look nice and move the AC port and PowerSwitch from the USB hub to the back of the enclosure with all the other ports. Im still going to have 3 separate PSUs but at least it will be a lot less tangled of a unit. I will post pics once I am completed with my mod.

RoganTheTwat said:
It needs more power.
TV USB ports dont five it enough power to do much other than boot and run services.
Try plugging the USB in to a turned on laptop or xbox or even a phone charger plug (Phone plug not good enough for 100% running)
90% of blank screens or freeze ups of MK808 are due to inadequate power supply.
Sent from my MK808 using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uhost2 offer 5V2A adapter. Support mobile hard disk drive easily.
RK3066 dual core,1.6Ghz,with BT and DLNA feature. If you don't want BT,could choose without BT for cost down.Default root for user,more friendly design in software,hardware and Industrial desgin. Private mold make Uhost special,unique and firm.
Original designed by smallart-odmDOTcom, [email protected]. Skype:rachel.chen11

Hi there,
How did you managed to flash firmware without video display?
Can you give me links and steps please?
Thanks
mkderb

mkderb said:
Hi there,
How did you managed to flash firmware without video display?
Can you give me links and steps please?
Thanks
mkderb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the flash tools for these devices dont require an external display. usually you will have to connect the android stick to the computer via usb while running an update utility for your specific device holding down the recovery hardware button. sometimes if you have flashed a custom recovery img such as clockworkmod you will need to have display connectivity to navigate the recover options. but it all depends on the device you have.

haxin said:
the flash tool or these devices dont require an external display. usually you will have to connect the android stick to the computer via usb while running an update utility for your specific device holding down the recovery hardware button. sometimes if you have flashed a custom recovery img such as clockworkmod you will need to have display connectivity to navigate the recover options. but it all depends on the device you have.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi haxin,
I realized that the device is mk808c not mk808 and I can't find any flashing tool for it
Thanks for thinking about helping me
MKDerb

MKV Jetta 2013 Nexus 7 Install - work in progress

Hey everyone. I have been working on an in-dash Nexus 7 install in my 2010 Jetta Wolfsburg, and I thought I would share my progress as I go in case any one else was considering this for their car. I did a similar install with the original Samsung Galaxy Tab in my 1998 BMW 540i which can be seen on bimmerforums if you're interested. Just search E39 Android Tablet Install.
The first think I did was to buy a double din kit from Metra for about $12 from ebay. I took a Dremel to this and modified it by cutting off the center piece as well as all 4 clips on the corners. Then I got some Plastic Weld made by JB weld from Home Depot and started to shape the bezel like I wanted it to be for the Nexus 7. To get this to be flat and mate with the tablet nicely, I had to take a nail file and sandpaper and fill/sand/fill/sand etc until I got it to be as flat as I could. This is what it looked like at first:
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I then added more to the bottom molding to give the tablet some support from the sides as well. I think this will help in keeping it stable. These are depicted by the yellow arrows. The filing/sanding I was talking about was referring to the red lines in the pictures. I am trying to get these surfaces to be as flat as possible so that the tablet will mate closely with the bezel.
I plasti-dipped the bezel, which FYI matches remarkably well with the interior plastic. Then I attached elastic bands traversing each other diagonally to hold the tablet to the bezel. In addition, I attached magnets around the bezel, which can be seen as the black circles around the edge. I will explain why I did this in more detail as I continue with the install. I also started messing around with the tablet to make it how I would want it in the car. I am using the 2013 Nexus 7 running Paranoid Android so that I can customize every app individually. I put the buttons on the side and made them red to match the interior. One thing that I am happy about is that the way that I chopped up the bezel, I left the camera, light sensor, and notification light open to be used. This way I could even do video calls (granted I will be looking at the road) which might be pretty cool. Here are some more pictures:
I then removed the stock headunit.
This gave me more room to work. I bought a CR2-VW2 harness by PAC from one of the VW forum members. This harness allowed me to connect an aftermarket headunit and retain the stock audio system (amp, speakers etc) but did not include steering wheel controls, which I did not need anyway. I chose the Alpine UTE-42BT for a few reasons. First, it is only $88 which is very reasonable. Secondly, it doesn't have a CD player which is good since that feature would never be used anyway. It has a front auxiliary port and bluetooth handsfree built in, which will allow me to use handsfree from the tablet. I will explain the intricacies of this in a more detailed write up when the project is completely done. As of right now, this is how it is looking:
Pardon the mess, the project is ongoing =) As of right now, the tablet is running on battery, but I am planning on setting it up so that it receives power when the car starts, thus turning on the screen, and when the power shuts off, the screen timeout of 7 seconds will kick in. I'm realizing that 16GB is not a lot of space for something I want to keep music on, so I recently bought a USB OTG cable to mount external storage and I'm waiting for that to arrive. Does anyone have experience with using USB OTG that could provide some insight into this? Will Google Music pick up on the media on the USB storage and add it automatically if I use Stickmount or something like that? I'm going to see how that works out before I decide I need to buy a 32GB Nexus 7 instead. To charge it (if USB OTG works, meaning that the micro USB port will be taken), I will get a wireless charger and plug that into the cigarette lighter for power. If USB OTG doesn't work, I will power it directly using micro USB. One thing I would recommend to anyone trying this is to pick up a ground loop isolator, since charger and using auxiliary at one can lead to some interference. There should be more to come over the next week as I get some more of these peripheral supplies. It sounds great though, and the functionality is far superior to the stock headunit.

Very amazing. I've a plan to put a tablet of some sort in one of my cars! you beat me to it long ago seems like! I wanted to connect my rasberry pi to some sort of 7inch touchscreen!
but this is wayyy nicer.
PROPS!

Reminds me of Statham's Audi from Transporter. Looks pretty futuristic.

Kookas said:
Reminds me of Statham's Audi from Transporter. Looks pretty futuristic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My friend just got the statham harcut

Awesome work samboner, keep us updated on your progress!

7786 said:
Awesome work samboner, keep us updated on your progress!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude, leave me alone! Unless you're here to answer my USB OTG questions. Otherwise, back to leaving me alone Olley.

Looks good, but otg and charging will not happen unless a kernel supports it.
They got it working on the 2012 n7 so most likely will happen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

BrianDigital said:
Looks good, but otg and charging will not happen unless a kernel supports it.
They got it working on the 2012 n7 so most likely will happen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm this for wireless charging and USB OTG. On mine the wireless charging cuts off when the OTG cable is plugged in.

7786 said:
Awesome work samboner, keep us updated on your progress!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
BrianDigital said:
Looks good, but otg and charging will not happen unless a kernel supports it.
They got it working on the 2012 n7 so most likely will happen
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
PMentior said:
I can confirm this for wireless charging and USB OTG. On mine the wireless charging cuts off when the OTG cable is plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh shoot, you can't do wireless charging and USB OTG at the same time? That is going to be a major problem for me. Well I'm glad I didn't buy a wireless charger yet. The USB OTG is working out like a charm, but I definitely need to have a long term charging solution. I don't want to have to take it in and out. Do any of you know if anyone is working on a kernel that allows USB OTG and wireless charging simultaneously?

faruqster said:
Oh shoot, you can't do wireless charging and USB OTG at the same time? That is going to be a major problem for me. Well I'm glad I didn't buy a wireless charger yet. The USB OTG is working out like a charm, but I definitely need to have a long term charging solution. I don't want to have to take it in and out. Do any of you know if anyone is working on a kernel that allows USB OTG and wireless charging simultaneously?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you somehow use Bluetooth instead of OTG?

Options!
I made a steering wheel interface for Androids, n7 primarily.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2206156
For one, I can tell you that you can Charge and use USB OTG if you install the right kernel.
read here too
http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=2113259
I haven't tried the pogo pins and USB OTG together, that might work. Otherwise there are a few options.
(to be clear, the best option would be a kernel that allows USB OTG and charging, at the same time. )
:good: First, probably best, Buy an adjustable regulator like this : http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/adjustable-dcdc-power-converter-125v-35v3a-p-1534.html and adjust it to 3.9Volts (lipo used in tablet works between 3.7v and 4.2v) , use the always on BATT 12v input. Then remove the back cover of the N7, remove the battery, and power it directly from the car. http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+7+Teardown/9623/1 It looks like the black, yellow and red wires would be Ground, Vcharge and Vout, but you'd need to verify. You'd probably have to cut the wire. You might want to order a replacement on Ebay to use. You can then use tap to wake to turn the screen on or a USB micro setup like the one I made to tell the tablet to turn on/off with the key (act as if a keyboard was plugged in and you hit the power key).
Second, and most tricky. USB OTG uses pin 5 as the sense pin for Host/Client. IF you don't intend to use Host mode all of the time, like just when pressing a steering wheel button, you could use a Microcontroller to trigger the mode.
Third, Would be to charge when the car is off, and USB host when the car is on. Again this comes down to using pin5, or if you follow Kuchar09's post he has a wire diagram for this.
---------- Post added at 01:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:14 PM ----------
Sorry, I just realized yours is a 2013 version. Same deal, not sure about the kernel, but someone will make one. Also not sure about the touch control, it needs kernel modules to work, so again compatible kernel.
BUT my first option, still the best work around.
Here is the tear down http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+7+2nd+Generation+Teardown/16072/1 and you can see the battery still uses wires. you'll need to test what they are. Powering the tablet with a regulator in place of the battery would be ideal.

...

http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/wireless/seagate-satellite/
That would solve the problem.

fzelle said:
http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/wireless/seagate-satellite/
That would solve the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, my first thought was a wifi HDD as well. Just give it power and put it somewhere out of the way. personally, I'd wire it and put it in/under the glove box for easy media adding/removal.

I've done this in several vehicles so far.
What are you doing about heat in a parked car in the sun? At 90 outside, in my sons car ( lighter colored cloth interior ) it's approx 110-115 in the car. In my 350z with black leather, it's over 120 inside.... With the hookup you have going, making that a removable mount would be pretty easy with a pair of nice magnets to snap that entire enclosure and tab into place. Makes it nice when you have to leave the car in the sun for any amount of time, or to work on it, etc.... I've seen 1 screen physically crack, and a 2nd device just flat out die. Something to keep in mind depending on where you live.
As far as the power issues.... I use tasker. When the power is cut to the device, I force it into deep sleep and airplane mode. It will go for 2 weeks+ sitting there idle without dying. When the power is fired up, wake up ( no lock screen ), and set the screen to full bright and no timeout. No need to hack the device. A kernel for this would be great like the orig N7 had, but until we get one, this will work too.
Also, don't go BT to a head unit IF you care about the sound quality ( compressed audio sucks and if you have a good system, you'll hear the difference ). Go with a DAC ( from 30 to 300 bucks depending on what you get ). The sound quality will be much better then using the compressed BT crapola. Or even go out via the head phones, it's still much better then BT.
Just some things I've come across doing this for a few years now with various devices.
Oh yea.. and put an anti glare screen protector on it. Play with them to find the right one, or your screen will be invisible when you have glasses on. IPads do the exact same thing. Once you go into landscape mode, black screen ( put on your shades and just turn it, you'll see.... it sucks )..

fzelle said:
http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/portable-hard-drives/wireless/seagate-satellite/
That would solve the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Coronado is dead said:
Yeah, my first thought was a wifi HDD as well. Just give it power and put it somewhere out of the way. personally, I'd wire it and put it in/under the glove box for easy media adding/removal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How exactly do these wifi hard drives work? Can I connect to a wifi hotspot while using one of these? How exactly is the storage mounted? Do you have to use a file explorer to access the files, or will Google Music be able to find the media automatically? ie media scanner
rkennison said:
I've done this in several vehicles so far.
What are you doing about heat in a parked car in the sun? At 90 outside, in my sons car ( lighter colored cloth interior ) it's approx 110-115 in the car. In my 350z with black leather, it's over 120 inside.... With the hookup you have going, making that a removable mount would be pretty easy with a pair of nice magnets to snap that entire enclosure and tab into place. Makes it nice when you have to leave the car in the sun for any amount of time, or to work on it, etc.... I've seen 1 screen physically crack, and a 2nd device just flat out die. Something to keep in mind depending on where you live.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good advice. Yeah, that's the plan with the magnets I built into the bezel. I am going to put some metal/magnets in the cavity where the tablet will go and I'll use those to put the tablet/bezel combination in and out.
rkennison said:
IAs far as the power issues.... I use tasker. When the power is cut to the device, I force it into deep sleep and airplane mode. It will go for 2 weeks+ sitting there idle without dying. When the power is fired up, wake up ( no lock screen ), and set the screen to full bright and no timeout. No need to hack the device. A kernel for this would be great like the orig N7 had, but until we get one, this will work too.
Also, don't go BT to a head unit IF you care about the sound quality ( compressed audio sucks and if you have a good system, you'll hear the difference ). Go with a DAC ( from 30 to 300 bucks depending on what you get ). The sound quality will be much better then using the compressed BT crapola. Or even go out via the head phones, it's still much better then BT.
Just some things I've come across doing this for a few years now with various devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking about rolling on battery alone, but I thought it would be nice to run it from a charger. I'm realizing that there physically isn't room to use the micro USB port, so I think I will use a wireless charger. I figured I would use Tasker to turn the timeout off, turn on the wifi and bluetooth, and other stuff like that with power, and reverse it when the power drops out. I am planning to use the auxiliary output for now.
rkennison said:
IOh yea.. and put an anti glare screen protector on it. Play with them to find the right one, or your screen will be invisible when you have glasses on. IPads do the exact same thing. Once you go into landscape mode, black screen ( put on your shades and just turn it, you'll see.... it sucks )..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is definitely something to think about. Are there any brands you would recommend or have experience with?

You could also mount a 120mm fan behind it for when it's hot. Heck, I bet the fan could run while the car is off and draw next to nothing from the battery. You would only need to run the fan at a few hundred rpm as well.

Fiio makes some pretty good ones without breaking the wallet. You can bypass the charging issues by just going headphone jack into the DAC, then into your headunit via an aux port (3.5 or RCA, they make DACs for each). You can go with a USB DAC as well, but I think there are driver requirements and crap to deal with on top of the power issues when hooking up via the N7s usb port. Just sounds messy so I've not tried it that way.
I pulled the HU from my son's completely and go from DAC right into the amp ( well into a crossover first so I can pull the sub frequencies into a separate amp as well ).
I kept my HU in. I just like having the 2 7" screens on the dash so I can still have full nav on the HU and music on the N7.
Oh and I just checked, the spigen ultra crystal screen protectors will cure the landscape sunglass issue. I'm sure others will as well, but I can verify these.

The hdd's create a hotspot the tablet would connect to. I don't know how the tablet would react as far as scanning media. You could soft link the files from the hard drive to the tablet if it doesn't just recognize cans play them. The Seagate is dlna compatible so it should be easy to play from.
A small fan would be easy enought to cool the tablet, you could even have a temp sensor on it, think attic fan, that would just come on automatically. Also of you follow my suggestion and remove the battery, and power it right from the car, the back cover would be off so cooling would be easier.
I run my system phone to Bluetooth (Sony sbh20) straight to my amps, it sounds great. All this bs about USB DAC's is mostly BS. The tablet has a DAC inside its what is converting the 1's and 0's to music. Yeah it might not be the best DAC on the market but I don't think its the source of bad sound quality on most any unit.
I personally am not a fan of hiding a deck just for the amp inside of it. This basically makes zero sense. However many new factory sound systems have the head unit specially eq'd to make the crappy speakers sound good. You might have to get new speakers to make a direct tablet -> amp -> speaker method sound good.
I did car audio for 10yrs I know a bit about it.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

That is beautiful! I want to do that so bad but I change tablets too much. So here's my option, bluetooth and all.
2013 N7 Kang Banged!

[MOD] Moto G Working Removable Storage

Hey guys, so I know that there was a lot of false speculation about the possibility of altering the internal storage capacity of the G.
That was false, as the internal storage is actually an eMMC chip.
However, I bought a XT1032 model, with 16GB of internal storage, and, being a ruthlessly enthusiastic electronic engineer, I decided to take the matter of SD card support into my own hands.
I noticed, shortly after getting it, that my phone, being the single SIM variant, has an unused slot in the side, and, upon closer inspection, no important components around that area.
So it began; turning the unused SIM slot into a microSD slot.
I first went to PC World, and bought this tiny USB card reader:
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I then stripped away all of the plastic, and all of the metal USB connector. I was left with this:
I then took the microSD slot from an old phone:
The above image shows two contacts in the top right corner which are pressed closed only when the microSD is present.
This is crucial to the operation of this mod, because it enables me to distinguish whether the SD is present or not (more on this later).
I then glued the card holder to the reader circuit board:
I used pliers and a scalpel to remove the unused SIM holder, and scrape an indent in the phone's pcb, to give more space to the reader circuit:
Finally, I soldered (VERY carefully) the relevant connections to the inside of the phone's connector, used a scalpel to cut away any obstructive plastic, and cut a copper sheet to fit over the SoC, RAM, eMMC, etc.:
And then put it all back together. I powered the phone up, and used a charger and a 2GB microSD to test everything, and hey presto, IT WORKS!
This mod takes advantage of the USB OTG function of the Moto G. My modifications, while extensive, are essentially an "Internal, Switch-able, OTG microSD Card Reader".
This is where the card holder contacts I mentioned earlier become important. The phone uses pin 4 of the USB connector to detect what is connected. A certain value of resistance between pin 4 and GND tell the phone what a connected device is. For charging the phone, or connecting it to a computer, pin 4 needs to be dealt with by the computer or charger. We cannot interfere with pin 4 in these two situations.
If we kept pin 4 low, the phone would try to constantly power the SD card reader, and so would not accept a charge, and would soon run out of battery. The solution is to only enable OTG when the microSD is present. This means that for charging, I take the SD out, the switch on the connector opens, letting pin 4 be controlled by the charger/computer. The phone can charge up, and when it's finished, I put the SD card back in, and OTG takes over again.
Neat huh?
Many thanks, and I hope you enjoyed reading!

to charge the device we could use a very little switch that short pin 4 to 5 (but needs to remember to uninstall SD in software first)

and this is the reason why i love xda.
neat stuff... too bad i have dual sim

abhifx said:
and this is the reason why i love xda.
neat stuff... too bad i have dual sim
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's nothing too bad
I'd u are a single sim user what you can do is use the other unused sim port for sd card
Correct me if I am wrong
Sent from my Moto G using Tapatalk

rr46000 said:
There's nothing too bad
I'd u are a single sim user what you can do is use the other unused sim port for sd card
Correct me if I am wrong
Sent from my Moto G using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am using both the sims... so too bad.
on the other hand... people have been using universal qi charger with moto g... a similar setup with card in battery back would result in same functionality and a bit less geeky

callidus_ex_de_latebros said:
WORK IN PROGRESS!! - I WILL REMOVE THIS FIRST LINE WHEN THE PROJECT IS FINISHED (IN A COUPLE OF DAYS)!
Hey guys, so I know that there was a lot of false speculation about the possibility of altering the internal storage capacity of the G.
That was false, as the internal storage is actually an eMMC chip.
However, I bought a XT1032 model, with 16GB of internal storage, and, being a ruthlessly enthusiastic electronic engineer, I decided to take the matter of SD card support into my own hands.
I noticed, shortly after getting it, that my phone, being the single SIM variant, has an unused slot in the side, and, upon closer inspection, no important components around that area.
So it began; turning the unused SIM slot into a microSD slot.
I first went to PC World, and bought this tiny USB card reader:
I then stripped away all of the plastic, and all of the metal USB connector. I was left with this:
I then took the microSD slot from an old phone:
The above image shows two contacts in the top right corner which are pressed closed only when the microSD is present.
This is crucial to the operation of this mod, because it enables me to distinguish whether the SD is present or not (more on this later).
This mod takes advantage of the USB OTG function of the Moto G. My modifications, while extensive, are essentially an "Internal, Switch-able, OTG microSD Card Reader".
This is where the card holder contacts I mentioned earlier become important. The phone uses pin 4 of the USB connector to detect what is connected. A certain value of resistance between pin 4 and GND tell the phone what a connected device is. For charging the phone, or connecting it to a computer, pin 4 needs to be dealt with by the computer or charger. We cannot interfere with pin 4 in these two situations.
If we kept pin 4 low, the phone would try to constantly power the SD card reader, and so would not accept a charge, and would soon run out of battery. The solution is to only enable OTG when the microSD is present. This means that for charging, I take the SD out, the switch on the connector opens, letting pin 4 be controlled by the charger/computer. The phone can charge up, and when it's finished, I put the SD card back in, and OTG takes over again.
Neat huh?
I have made a video demonstration:
VIDEO WILL BE INSERTED HERE SHORTLY.
P.S: I also took the opportunity to add some copper sheet over the SoC and RAM, etc.. for better thermal management:
Many thanks, and I hope you enjoyed reading!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I made these project, but i use external connector for change the state otg to state charge battery, good project and good idea that "presence sd switch"
http://www.htcmania.com/showthread.php?t=764854

vientodearena said:
I made these project, but i use external connector for change the state otg to state charge battery, good project and good idea that "presence sd switch"
http://www.htcmania.com/showthread.php?t=764854
View attachment 2764920
View attachment 2764921
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! I honestly hadn't seen your post, but my apologies for lack of originality.
I presume you soldered the microUSB connector internally then? That's what I'm going to do - very carefully!
Thanks to everyone else for their nice comments. More pictures of the finished project, and hopefully a video, will be up soon.

vientodearena said:
I made these project, but i use external connector for change the state otg to state charge battery, good project and good idea that "presence sd switch"
http://www.htcmania.com/showthread.php?t=764854
View attachment 2764920
View attachment 2764921
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Guys, both project are really cool!!
@vientodearena: could you please translate it ?

fabus said:
Guys, both project are really cool!!
@vientodearena: could you please translate it ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1

A quick question, does anyone know why USB OTG prevents deep sleep (More to the point, how I could disable this)?
It means that the battery usage when the screen is on is pretty much the same as usual, but when the screen is off, the battery usage is massive, as deep sleep isn't occurring.

callidus_ex_de_latebros said:
A quick question, does anyone know why USB OTG prevents deep sleep (More to the point, how I could disable this)?
It means that the battery usage when the screen is on is pretty much the same as usual, but when the screen is off, the battery usage is massive, as deep sleep isn't occurring.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably this is related to supplying power by phone to otg device. It would be really good improvement in next kernels to stop giving power to otg device when it is idle.
Currently, when u r copying some files, playing music from e.g. otg drive, when phone would go into deep sleep, transfer would be stopped because phone goes into deep sleep, so this also wouldn't be good approach...
Wysłane z mojego Moto G przy użyciu Tapatalka

http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2569911

Hey Mr. Calidos (OP), any news on your project? I already made this topic a favorite one for me.. Heheh.
[]s!
Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

JJmattos1 said:
Any news on your project?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, at the moment, a kernel module called 'msm_otg' is stopping the device from sleeping while the SD is inserted.
This means that I have to take the SD out when I'm not using the phone.
To solve this, I need to modify the kernel to allow deep sleep to occur. I'll post an update when I've solved this problem.
P.S; My username is actually Latin. It means: "The cunning of that which is hidden". It's about people's use of technology that they don't understand.

I see!
So, you'll only post the video after making this little mod on the kernel side?
[]s and thanks again for the great idea that you got !
Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

Might try a video without kernel mod, but I am doing a-level exams at the moment, so I'm quite busy.
Sent from my Moto G using Tapatalk

I'm wondering, if i use a ROM that has a Wakelock Blocker, like PAC-MAN, and use that feature to stop that OTG wakelock, will the OTG still work or not?
Sent from me using my tablet using an app.

The problem is that otg is not recognised as a system app or process, as it's controlled by the kernel, which is firmware.

callidus_ex_de_latebros said:
The problem is that otg is not recognised as a system app or process, as it's controlled by the kernel, which is firmware.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will help work on the kernel when my device gets here around the 15th i know a little something about kernels

Any news?

Newsmy Carpad 4

Just a place holder for now. I rec'd my test/sample unit today. I took it out of the box just long enough to snap a photo or 2 to send to a friend. Nothing detailed worth posting here yet. I'll try to take better photos this evening, and might even try to get wired into the truck.
Of note: It looks just like the NU/NR3001. Same screen size, same buttons. It also came with a dash cam with a dedicated harness/plug. I haven't investigated the underlying connection type (USB, Composite, etc).
Will post more details and clean up this OP as I do.

Thanks two-head/three-arms. Looking forward to it!

First look. I have a few software/language issues to solve before I put this in my truck, but here's a quick runthrough:

I can't watch properly at work but those Bonovo apps look very familiar.

Antutu Score: 31896
http://imgur.com/a/nu84T#mwhpSCN

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Antutu Score: 31896
http://imgur.com/a/nu84T#mwhpSCN
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey. It is not clear, and where a slot for a SIM card. Look on their website in China http://www.newsmy-car.com/product/showproduct.php?lang=cn&id=75

Thanks for posting. I am wondering if they packaged the main board in an NR housing as the new one is not yet ready, and this is a sample. Just a guess as the one on the web page looks a little different and it definitely needs a slot for a sim card. Seems like they made very little change to the MCU portion if the same code runs on it; stating that based on version number. Dash camera specific slot is of course new but all other cables are identical to the ones I received with my NR. If you get a chance please test USB behavior on shutdown. Thanks!

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Antutu Score: 31896
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw a post just now about the Joying x86 Sofia units getting 21901, so that score seems pretty damn good.

Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely looks hacked together. The main board is much smaller than the NR one. I think they would take advantage by packaging in a smaller chassis. No heatsink on the one you have; the NR one is not adequate as is if you run all four channels at moderate to high volumes.
Does it really only have 1 GB RAM, as listed on the webpage?
Be careful with the USB you order. Several people have had issues with cables longer than 3ft. You should have gotten a second USB cable with it and too bad they did not give you the 5.1 cable (sticker shows it has the output).

hello, I am also curious. the Carpad 4 has really only 1 GB of RAM and 16 GB of internal space ?? For me to have 1 GB would be a total regression.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I saw is a failure . The device really is not ready at all. And what they want from you? What is the test? Here it is necessary to refine the mind is still lots and lots. 1GB of RAM is not serious at all. My NU 1GB of memory and I want to buy a new unit with 2GB of RAM, 1GB is not too much and not enough.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Some more images.
http://imgur.com/a/3AhhI
There is indeed a SIM slot inside. You have to void warranty to get to it though? I'm now starting to also wonder if this isn't the final chassis.
I'm also very frustrated in that the only USB Connection is on one of the small harnesses and it's USB-Female A. Which means I need an Male A to Male cable to connect to my computer. Since that is technically against USB Spec, I didn't have one of those. Started to cut a few cords apart and make one, but decided to just order one from Amazon instead. Will be here in a couple of days. Hopefully I can sideload Play services and get some real apps on here, check out ADB, etc.
I can't put this in my truck until I am able to load G-maps and/or Waze and G-play Music or Power amp, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where do you think the SOC is? I think it must be on the same board as the sim (underneath the MCU board or on the underside) as the SOC they are using has built in 4g/Bluetooth/wifi and all the antennae are all originating off that board. I am guessing that black overhang off the back are the external 4g antennae?

This is my Carpad 4 . It has simcard slot in the unit. We need to open cover to insert simcard - this is so fun! And we have somethings more:
1- This unit haven't Chplay to install app from market; may be in final version they will update this. I have only head unit for tester
2 - xposed additions (one of the most interesting module for exposed framework on our car) will not work at all. So we can't use this exposed addition module to do something as carpad 3. We will ask Newsmy do keyeditor can function as addition xposed.
3 - Ram 1Gb - this is downgrade product from carpad 3
The good new is Camera has got verry good quantily (HD camera 720p or 1080P)
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"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
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I have this unit in my hand, so if someone needs more pictures , I will take

The 1GB seems to be the only real downside so far. But, that may or may not affect real world performance. I'm still trying to sort out a few things before I put it in the truck full time. Then I can see if the RAM degrades performance.
The camera additions are pretty neat, and I'm waiting to see how this 'New Yan' remote app works (I can't get logged in).
I cut their rear camera harness and tried to wire in my existing OEM rear cam (I REALLY don't want to run their camera to the back of my truck!), but that didn't work on my initial test. The front/DVR cam is pretty neat. I was able to sideload Waze, and will make another stab at sideloading Google Play services this weekend.
I'll take some more pics/videos when done.
I know some are dismissing this device due to the 1GB, but I'd suggest holding off on judgement. What myself and @ngochoangimsat have is an early engineering build. If we give them good feedback, the final product might be well worth having.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
What myself and @ngochoangimsat have is an early engineering build. If we give them good feedback, the final product might be well worth having.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I'm hoping. I still think the NR is a pretty great device with xdAuto on it (with the stock ROM I could never get it to stop reporting "Main activity has stopped".
Unrelated I am curious about the relationship between Bonovo and Newsmy. Is Bonovo a supplier to Newsmy. The MCU board on the 4 actually says Bonovo, not Newsmy!

Another test video:
I also came up with a really crazy idea. I was working on a friends NR5002 getting ready for his install next week. Realize that all the Nu/NR and Carpad4 chassis and screens, etc. should be interchangeable. I have an NU5002 with no android box to power it... and of course I prefer the 8" screen to the 7" universal so ......
Tearing them all down now.... Could be able to make a Carpad4 version of my NU5002

Well, crap. I broke it.
The 8" screen from NU5002 does work. The chassis parts are not quite as interchangeable as I had hoped. I could force it to work, but still had a few too many issues to solve, so I went to put it back together in original form. Unfortunately, the LCD ribbon connector is in a vary precarious spot and it evidently lifted away from the board at some point during my trials. I tried to superglue it back to the board, and can get video to display if I put just the right amount of pressure on the cable, but as soon as I let go, it quits.
Back to square one.

Zaphod-Beeblebrox said:
Well, crap. I broke it.
The 8" screen from NU5002 does work. The chassis parts are not quite as interchangeable as I had hoped. I could force it to work, but still had a few too many issues to solve, so I went to put it back together in original form. Unfortunately, the LCD ribbon connector is in a vary precarious spot and it evidently lifted away from the board at some point during my trials. I tried to superglue it back to the board, and can get video to display if I put just the right amount of pressure on the cable, but as soon as I let go, it quits.
Back to square one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry, it is possible that it will come in handy.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=60056637&postcount=3864

Very interesting, I too have a NU5002 and would love an 8" version. Is it still mostly empty with circuit boards on the bottom? This would help me as I need to modify the case and maybe remove the screen from the rest to make it fit in my car.
Software wise, is it lollipop with a kit kat base like I've seen other manufacturers do?
Syncing text from phone to head unit seems like a neat feature. Any idea of back porting it to previous units? Honestly that should already be implemented in Android natively.