Kids.... broke my charging data cable for Galaxy tablet P7300 at the connection head.
All wires have come off the piece.
Does anyone have diagram to what color wire connects where?
Thinking of re-soldering the wires back.
There seem to be RED WHITE GREEN and BLACK wires.
Back of the 30 pin connector seem to have 2 pins one above the other and 2 more pins further to the right (as you are looking at it when connected to the Tablet facing you)
Is it worth the try?
Waiting for another cable to be delivered.
Here is the pinout:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=9925838
Related
Hi, great site!
I have been trying to audio enable a powered cradle.
I followed instructions on the connectors page about the 10K resistor on pin 19 to ground, but it doesn't work.
The pcb as shown in the picture, which is the underneath of the pcb is labeled pin 1 - 21 which conflicts with the pinout on the connectors page. Are the pinout for the 2020i and the xda II (2020) the same?
This is the connector the correct way up show inserted in to the 2020i.
I came to the conclusion by resistance testing pin 1 that the topside was 1-21 until i found that the first pin on the bottom side seams to be invisible linked to the first pin on the topside, if you follow my drift.
The charging side of things seems to work OK. ie the charge light comes on and the screen gets brighter which is how i have it set - full brightness on power!
thankssssss
What i could really do with is confirmation of which side of the pcb is odd pins and which side is even pins with pin 1 being left most on the bottom of the pda. This will confirm either way the work i have done.
Thankz
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Connectors
And given that XDA 2 accessories work on the 2i, I'd imagine they are the same layout.
Thanks Pug that is the page that i have been referencing for the work i have done! :wink:
Does anyone know what pin 15 UDC- is for?
On the cradle I bought it is connected to pin 17 GND for some reason.
Ideas as to why?
had a mess around with this setup and cannot get the audio to work throught the bottom connector, goona go down the bluetooth gateway alley, will suffice for what i want and has other uses as well!
Last week I replaced my flex ribbon cable because I tore the ribbon cable to the power button while replacing the digitizer.
After installing the new flex cable my blutooth signal has been terrible. When listening to music via S9-HD's when I go to put the phone back in my pocket the audio cuts out just in the motion from texting to placing the phone in my pocket. Also when walking its impossible to listen to any music because it cuts out so much.
What might my problem be? Is the blutooth antenna on the flex cable or did I mess something up when I took apart my phone?
anyone?
bump
We aren't ignoring you dude. I promise. Have you disassembled the phone again and tried wiggling things around?
Finally had the time to take it apart again and wiggled things around. It improved a little bit, but still the range is no where near what it was before I replaced the flex ribbon cable.
Does anyone know which cable is the Bluetooth cable? is it the black one on the left near the white cable or the single black cable on the opposite side? I did notice when I took my phone apart again was a small pinch in the single black cable. Would that pinch be enough to break the wire under the shielding?
I can get pics if needed some time this weekend.
wonderbread24 said:
Finally had the time to take it apart again and wiggled things around. It improved a little bit, but still the range is no where near what it was before I replaced the flex ribbon cable.
Does anyone know which cable is the Bluetooth cable? is it the black one on the left near the white cable or the single black cable on the opposite side? I did notice when I took my phone apart again was a small pinch in the single black cable. Would that pinch be enough to break the wire under the shielding?
I can get pics if needed some time this weekend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those types of cables are made of SUPER fine wire. A pinch can easily sever them inside the shielding.
How do i know for sure that the kinked cable is the bluetooth cable? So I can order the right one to eliminate that factor.
Does it look like that?
http://www.cellulardr.com/t-mobile-...y-touch-4g-blue-tooth-coax-cable-tmobile.html
There are two that look like that.
One on the left side and one on the right when looking at the phone with the back open and the screen facing down.
Sent from my Glacier using XDA
Well, there is a white and a black cable. The one in the product photo is black. Provided that is not a generic stock photo it should be the black one.
what I have:
A single wire from my apart wall, that connects to the door button, when I use multimeter, it reads 0V - 0.5V AC, when someone press the door button, it raises to 5V AC
I have no access to the door buzzer transformer, and I don't konw when it's isolated or floating or even has a ground
a RPi 2B, some resistor, some capacitors, some sharp817 optoisolators, a breadboard, some jumper wires
What I want to do:
I want to connect this wire through an optoisolators and resistors to the RPi's GPIO, so I can call something like
GPIO.add_event_detect(channel, GPIO.RISING, callback=my_callback) to detect the door button push event
What's my problem:
I have no idea how to exactly make the cirecuit work, especially there is only one AC wire (positive live wire may be?, where's the ground wire?)
please help
and wish everyone merry christmas
I think it would be easier, when you use a schmitt-trigger and control a digital input of the Rpi. Did i understand right, that you only want to detect 0V or 5V ? You are not interestet in voltage levels between ?
Hey guys. For the last 3 days i've been trying to fix my headphones (original AKG) and i've burned my fingers with the solder and wasted almost 1/16 pound of solder. So now im here to help anyone trying to fix their own headphones.
WIRE GUIDE:
GREEN - LEFT CHANNEL
RED - RIGHT CHANNEL
BLACK (2 wires) - VOLUME UP/ VOLUME DOWN
So here we go.
I bought 2 of these:
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32821...ZVf&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite
One for the AKG headphones and one for an apple pair.
First things first, cut the wire as close as you can to the jack. Then get a razor blade and cut off about 1/2 inch of nylon braiding. Continue by using the razor blade to peel 3/4 inches of rubber shielding from the 1/2 that was taken off of the nylon braiding. Once that is done, separate the wires from the white nylon, once it is done, cut the white nylon.
Here comes the tricky part. You will have in your hands 5 wires.
One Red, which is wrapped by a copper wire (which is the ground for that particular speaker side)
One green, same as the red.
2 black wires. Which have volume up and volume down functionality. One of the black wires has a copper & black wire wrapped around it. These are 2 separate wires. The SUPER THIN BLACK is the common ground for both speakers.(It'll sound muffled if you dont conect it).
And last but not least one copper wire.
Take: The last copper wire, the SUPER THIN black wire, the copper wire that was wrapped around the red and green wires and join them. This is your common ground.
Soldering for the headphone jack linked above:
This is a TRRS jack (Tip, Ring, Ring, Sleeve)
The common ground gets soldered to the first ring on the jack. The red to the one above it, the green to the upper most tip and the 2 black wires go to the outter sleeve (little metal paddle to the side.
But wait there's more!
Original apple headphone wiring color:
Green - Left
Red - Right
Red/Copper - Right ground
Green/Copper - Left ground
Red/Green - Mic, Volume UP/DOWN
Thats all Folks!
Reserved
Here are some pictures of the finished product
Quick observation:
I was playing pubg with the headphones and noticed i was creating a ton of static through the MIC. I did heat up the replacement jack a lot so im inclined to believe i melted the inner plastic that separates the contacts.will have to test another headphone to see if this is the case.
Soldering tip: Do NOT heat up the item to be soldered for too long (3+ seconds) if your solder wont melt instantly after you touch it, either your solder is bad or the iron is too cold.
respect
Hello friends,
Today I received the multimedia system that I ordered from AliExpress and of course the frame did not arrive compatible with the car (as I was promised),
But I improvised and managed to overcome it,
The problem is that I connect all the cables properly and turn on the car but the unit just doesnt turn on,
Maybe I'm missing something and I don't know? I even tried replacing the fuse, but nothing.
In the video you can see everything, although in the video I only connect the power cable, but before that I tried with everything...
the system should turn on even when nothing is connected except the power cable, right?
I would appreciate your help because I am at a loss and the seller is not really helpful..
seat ibiza 2016
yanivos89 said:
Hello friends,
Today I received the multimedia system that I ordered from AliExpress and of course the frame did not arrive compatible with the car (as I was promised),
But I improvised and managed to overcome it,
The problem is that I connect all the cables properly and turn on the car but the unit just doesnt turn on,
Maybe I'm missing something and I don't know? I even tried replacing the fuse, but nothing.
In the video you can see everything, although in the video I only connect the power cable, but before that I tried with everything...
the system should turn on even when nothing is connected except the power cable, right?
I would appreciate your help because I am at a loss and the seller is not really helpful..
seat ibiza 2016
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should read the installation guide.
There are 2 power lines necessary to get it booting, and a ground to the car body.
There is a red one (mostly) which has BAT power at all time, and most probably a yellow one marked with ACC. This line switches the radio on when you turn the ignition key to on, so this line needs 12V from the ignition.
rigattoni said:
You should read the installation guide.
There are 2 power lines necessary to get it booting, and a ground to the car body.
There is a red one (mostly) which has BAT power at all time, and most probably a yellow one marked with ACC. This line switches the radio on when you turn the ignition key to on, so this line needs 12V from the ignition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this are the cables that i have
yanivos89 said:
this are the cables that i have
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use a voltmeter or test light and measure the lines Battery, ACC and Ground.
Battery should have constant power and ACC should be powered if the ignition is on.
What is about the missing connection here?
yanivos89
To add the may be missing information:
You don´t feed the unit with any power. There is a connector with yellow and red line from both connectors, but you need to connect the one from the Quadlock to the head unit cable tree with the same colors. In the second picture I think there is an open connector for that.
thanks, you mean these orange and red wires? i connected them but still nothing
yanivos89 said:
thanks, you mean these orange and red wires? i connected them but still nothing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that this connector does not fit your car
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
wotii098 said:
I think that this connector does not fit your car
View attachment 5799475
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
seat ibiza 2016
wotii098 said:
I think that this connector does not fit your car
View attachment 5799475
Connectors in green area are used for speakers. And metal connectors in plug (from vehicle) are present.
Connectors in red area are used to supply power [battery+, ground, ACC], buttons illumination etc. and metal connectors are NOT present.
Look at blue arrows for reference
What is cars brand, model and production year?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have the same unit and cable tree?
I can´t see the counterpart of the Quadlock connector coming from the unit.
To get a proper answer, we should see both connectors from the front and the back.
rigattoni said:
Do you have the same unit and cable tree?
I can´t see the counterpart of the Quadlock connector coming from the unit.
To get a proper answer, we should see both connectors from the front and the back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, those connectors are taken from yanivos89 photos - left is harness from his SEAT, right is from his android head unit.
There is no way to connect 52pin quadlock to 40 pin quadlock, even if plug physically it can be connected, the pins inside simply dont match.
yanivos89 said:
seat ibiza 2016
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Best you can do is contact seller and ask for new harness. You need 52 quadlock connector, similiar to rest of modern VW group cars
Volkswagen (2015-2020) WG8 Sensor-Screen Bluetooth Head Unit pinout diagram @ pinoutguide.com
Additionaly you need to know that in your case everything is highly dependable on CANBUS decoder - harness from your car doesn't provide ACC signal to wake radio or signal for buttons illumination. It is solved via CAN signals.
Maybe CANBUS decoder also has to be replaced if wrong harness was sent.
Ahhh... didn´t see that.
You are right. In this case he has a wrong cable tree from Ali.
thanks very much to you both! i will check this,
what about the canbus? also need to replace or it fit?
yanivos89 said:
thanks very much to you both! i will check this,
what about the canbus? also need to replace or it fit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...but you told us, that you was aware that the unit does not fit your car, right?
Wasn´t that good your decision to buy a not matching unit, right? Makes it complicated to reconfigure that stuff.
In this case: I think you will have to pay for a harness and may be also for a new CAN box. Try to buy one from the seller, or:
You also can buy a harness for VW/Skoda/Seat and crimp it to the current harness.
In this case you need to follow the connection graph on the unit and compare this with a picture of the OEM connector. Should be found on Google. May be the CAN connector works, may be not. There are a lot of CAN boxes available for your car in combination with Chinese aftermarket radios.
Good luck!
I think your car is MQB platform and the radio is for PQ platform. 52pin qadlock to 40pin. Maybe a reduction will help you
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mN4W48q
the harness of the 52 pins did solve my problem, thanks everyone for the help!