I have a PX5 head unit running Android 8.0 Oreo. I’ve already connected a rear view camera that works great, but I’d also like to connect a front view camera. I’ll be connecting the camera to the composite/CVBS AV IN video input.
I don’t expect any problem using it simply as a front view camera by launching the AV IN app to view the video signal, but I was wondering if it is possible to use the same video signal for the DVR dash cam app (I know the quality won’t be all that great, but still)?
Also, the AV cable harness of my head unit includes a red ‘CAM POW’ wire. I haven’t measured yet, but perhaps somebody knows if it gets 12V when the radio is on? Otherwise I’ll have to look for a different 12V source. I’ve already enabled the ‘Front cam’ option in the Factory settings and I’ve set the ‘DVR’ option to ‘USB+CVBS’.
Nobody? :crying:
The cam pow wire will output 12v when the F-cam app is open (or when reverse gear is triggered via the reverse wire).
I don’t know of a way to use that video for the DVR app, and moreover the front/rear cameras typically have a voltage converter from 12v to whatever lower voltage the camera itself uses. This is integrated either into the camera or on the wire somewhere and it warms up very quickly. The camera isn’t meant to be on all the time as a result because it overheats and can stop working.
The DVR app is made to receive a signal from a certain type of USB camera only afaik. You can find them on AliExpress too.. then again I gotta check my settings, because I’ve never messed around with it.
vassandrei said:
The cam pow wire will output 12v when the F-cam app is open (or when reverse gear is triggered via the reverse wire).
I don’t know of a way to use that video for the DVR app, and moreover the front/rear cameras typically have a voltage converter from 12v to whatever lower voltage the camera itself uses. This is integrated either into the camera or on the wire somewhere and it warms up very quickly. The camera isn’t meant to be on all the time as a result because it overheats and can stop working.
The DVR app is made to receive a signal from a certain type of USB camera only afaik. You can find them on AliExpress too.. then again I gotta check my settings, because I’ve never messed around with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see, thanks for the detailed reply!
I’ll forget about using this camera as a dash cam.
Do you know if the CAM POW wire also outputs 12V when the AV IN app is open? Or is it just when the F-Cam app is open (and set to the front cam)?
jorisvervuurt said:
I see, thanks for the detailed reply!
I’ll forget about using this camera as a dash cam.
Do you know if the CAM POW wire also outputs 12V when the AV IN app is open? Or is it just when the F-Cam app is open (and set to the front cam)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a good question.. I haven't tested. I'll try tomorrow and tell you the result. I'm going to lean towards no though, because otherwise anytime that AV-in would be open my rear/front camera and parking system would turn on, which would be inconvenient if watching some AUX video in source (like a console).
vassandrei said:
That's a good question.. I haven't tested. I'll try tomorrow and tell you the result. I'm going to lean towards no though, because otherwise anytime that AV-in would be open my rear/front camera and parking system would turn on, which would be inconvenient if watching some AUX video in source (like a console).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, thanks!
Another question...
My head unit only has two (yellow) RCA video inputs.
One is labeled 'CAM VIN', to which my reverse camera is connected.
The other input is labeled 'AUX VIN' (also a yellow RCA).
Is my assumption that F-Cam uses the 'AUX VIN' signal correct (so, the same signal that is shown in the AV IN app)?
jorisvervuurt said:
Awesome, thanks!
Another question...
My head unit only has two (yellow) RCA video inputs.
One is labeled 'CAM VIN', to which my reverse camera is connected.
The other input is labeled 'AUX VIN' (also a yellow RCA).
Is my assumption that F-Cam uses the 'AUX VIN' signal correct (so, the same signal that is shown in the AV IN app)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright so I tested and the AVIN app has no effect on the CAM-POW pin, because my parking sensors and rear/front cameras definitely don’t turn on when I open the avin app.
Cam-VIN is your reverse camera in most likely. It will show when you give the reverse pin 12v and thereby activate the reverse camera app (or open the f-cam app and switch to rear view mode via the button on the screen).
Aux vin is what the AVIN app shows, and is not tied to any power pin as far as I know.
F-cam in is separate from those two and the connector isn’t always present on all units. You might have the f-cam in pin on a second AV connector that doesn’t have any plugs included for it (for instance on my unit f-cam in is on a small 8 pin connector next to my main av connector which I had to make my own cables for)
Check the front parking camera mod thread on here, I posted pictures of what my Witson unit looks like.
vassandrei said:
Alright so I tested and the AVIN app has no effect on the CAM-POW pin, because my parking sensors and rear/front cameras definitely don’t turn on when I open the avin app.
Cam-VIN is your reverse camera in most likely. It will show when you give the reverse pin 12v and thereby activate the reverse camera app (or open the f-cam app and switch to rear view mode via the button on the screen).
Aux vin is what the AVIN app shows, and is not tied to any power pin as far as I know.
F-cam in is separate from those two and the connector isn’t always present on all units. You might have the f-cam in pin on a second AV connector that doesn’t have any plugs included for it (for instance on my unit f-cam in is on a small 8 pin connector next to my main av connector which I had to make my own cables for)
Check the front parking camera mod thread on here, I posted pictures of what my Witson unit looks like.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much!
I've checked the other thread and I may be in luck with the 8 pin connector.
Mine's also a Witson unit: http://www.witson.com/en/displayproduct.html?proID=102131570
I don't have a photo of the actual unit in my car, but according to Witson's product photo it does have the 8-pin connector:
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I currently have my reverse camera connected to CAM VIN (video signal, yellow RCA) and the +12V to the brown REVERSE wire on the main ISO harness.
That brown REVERSE wire gets +12V when I manually change gear to the reverse gear (otherwise it's at 0V, I've measured it), but clicking the reverse camera button in F-Cam doesn't get me +12V on that wire.
If I understand correctly, you have both your front view camera and your reverse camera connected to the red CAM POW wire on the AV-harness?
Does the radio output +12V on the red CAM POW wire when you manually change gear to the reverse gear AND when clicking the reverse camera button in F-Cam?
If so, I'll have to change the wiring.
As for the 8-pin connector: what is it called and where can I order the correct harness?
Thanks again for all the useful info!!!
jorisvervuurt said:
Thank you so much!
I've checked the other thread and I may be in luck with the 8 pin connector.
Mine's also a Witson unit: http://www.witson.com/en/displayproduct.html?proID=102131570
I don't have a photo of the actual unit in my car, but according to Witson's product photo it does have the 8-pin connector:
I currently have my reverse camera connected to CAM VIN (video signal, yellow RCA) and the +12V to the brown REVERSE wire on the main ISO harness.
That brown REVERSE wire gets +12V when I manually change gear to the reverse gear (otherwise it's at 0V, I've measured it), but clicking the reverse camera button in F-Cam doesn't get me +12V on that wire.
If I understand correctly, you have both your front view camera and your reverse camera connected to the red CAM POW wire on the AV-harness?
Does the radio output +12V on the red CAM POW wire when you manually change gear to the reverse gear AND when clicking the reverse camera button in F-Cam?
If so, I'll have to change the wiring.
As for the 8-pin connector: what is it called and where can I order the correct harness?
Thanks again for all the useful info!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The reverse wire is meant to receive 12v+ into the head unit as a signal of you having changed gears. It's typically hooked up to your reverse light (as it turns on when you switch into reverse).
and YES! The CAM POW wire outputs 12v BOTH when in reverse gear (triggered by the reverse signal wire receiving 12v) AND when opening the f-CAM app!! It's actually super cool because not only is it an automatic parking assistance system (for both front and rear) but you can totally check either camera at ANY time, even during driving, or being stuck in traffic. It's quite fun
Yes, I currently have both my front and rear camera powered by the CAM POW wire. I did use a relay though, so as not to overload the one pin (because I have a video-based parking sensor system installed on both the front and rear as well).
The 8 pin connector -- I have no idea what it's called. I just dug around through my old head unit connectors from my other car and found one that was the same size but wider. I cut it so that it was 4 pins (instead of something like 16). So, if someone else knows what those types of connectors are called, that would be helpful.
vassandrei said:
The reverse wire is meant to receive 12v+ into the head unit as a signal of you having changed gears. It's typically hooked up to your reverse light (as it turns on when you switch into reverse).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My head unit has two brown REVERSE wires; one on the main ISO harness and one on the AV harness. The one on the AV harness never outputs +12V, as it is the trigger wire. The REVERSE wire on the main ISO harness however, does output +12V when I manually select reverse gear. This is done through the CANbus system. My reverse camera is not connected to the reverse light wiring.
vassandrei said:
and YES! The CAM POW wire outputs 12v BOTH when in reverse gear (triggered by the reverse signal wire receiving 12v) AND when opening the f-CAM app!! It's actually super cool because not only is it an automatic parking assistance system (for both front and rear) but you can totally check either camera at ANY time, even during driving, or being stuck in traffic. It's quite fun
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds great! I’ll be measuring some of these wires soon, as I’m probably going to change the wiring. It’ll be particulary useful to read license plates of cars that are ‘bumperklevers’ as we call them in Dutch.
vassandrei said:
Yes, I currently have both my front and rear camera powered by the CAM POW wire. I did use a relay though, so as not to overload the one pin (because I have a video-based parking sensor system installed on both the front and rear as well).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, okay. Will that also be necessary when connecting two simple cameras, of which one has four white LEDs? I guess they won’t use that much power.
vassandrei said:
The 8 pin connector -- I have no idea what it's called. I just dug around through my old head unit connectors from my other car and found one that was the same size but wider. I cut it so that it was 4 pins (instead of something like 16). So, if someone else knows what those types of connectors are called, that would be helpful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aha, okay. I’ll ask the seller of my radio.
@vassandrei I have just (without taking the radio out of the dashboard) measured the red CAM POW wire on the AV-harness.
Good news! Normally, the wire reads 0V. When I open the F-Cam app - no matter if the front or back camera is selected - it reads +12V. This is also the case when the reverse gear is selected, even when the F-Cam app is not opened.
Note that all of the above is working without having the reverse trigger wire connected to the reverse light positive; all through the CANbus system.:laugh:
I’m going to change how my reverse camera is connected, as it right now only gets power when I select the reverse gear.
Bad news! :crying:
I just took my radio out to see if it has the 8-pin connector.
Unfortunately, it doesn’t actually have the connector installed, though it does look like everything on the PCB in place; it’s just the connector that wasn’t soldered on during production (probably to save cost).
I could open the unit and manually solder a connector on, but I assume that will void my warranty...
jorisvervuurt said:
Bad news! :crying:
I just took my radio out to see if it has the 8-pin connector.
Unfortunately, it doesn’t actually have the connector installed, though it does look like everything on the PCB in place; it’s just the connector that wasn’t soldered on during production (probably to save cost).
I could open the unit and manually solder a connector on, but I assume that will void my warranty...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awww man that sucks! I would still consider soldering.. the warranty isn’t worth much (huge pain in the butt to send for repairs anyway ). The convenience and novelty are worth it for me
vassandrei said:
Awww man that sucks! I would still consider soldering.. the warranty isn’t worth much (huge pain in the butt to send for repairs anyway ). The convenience and novelty are worth it for me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I’m definitely considering soldering directly to the board (I’m quite experienced in soldering so that is no problem at all). Instead of ordering through e.g. AliExpress, I ordered the radio through Icebox Auto in the UK, so should I need the warranty, it shouldn’t be a very big problem as I also live in the EU (The Netherlands).
I’ve emailed them to ask about soldering to the board. Preferably, I’d solder the correct female connector to the PCB, but I haven’t found the name of the 8 pin connector so far. :crying:
Here’s a photo of how my radio looks from the back:
jorisvervuurt said:
Yeah, I’m definitely considering soldering directly to the board (I’m quite experienced in soldering so that is no problem at all). Instead of ordering through e.g. AliExpress, I ordered the radio through Icebox Auto in the UK, so should I need the warranty, it shouldn’t be a very big problem as I also live in the EU (The Netherlands).
I’ve emailed them to ask about soldering to the board. Preferably, I’d solder the correct female connector to the PCB, but I haven’t found the name of the 8 pin connector so far. :crying:
Here’s a photo of how my radio looks from the back:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah the one to the left of the circle hole is it. I can even see the bits of solder on the pads! I would solder a wire directly to the board, not bothering with connectors
vassandrei said:
Yeah the one to the left of the circle hole is it. I can even see the bits of solder on the pads! I would solder a wire directly to the board, not bothering with connectors
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, it really looks like they just saved on production costs and figured we wouldn’t need the connector. Soldering wires would work too, though I prefer the connectors to be as they would be from the factory. I’ve been looking around the internet and it looks like it’s a 2x4p PHB wire-to-board connector with 2.0mm spacing. Not entirely sure though, but they look identical...
Will keep this thread updated once I hear from Rob at Icebox Auto. :good:
By the way, which pins are needed for the F-CAM RCA-in? I assume ground and signal, but which ones are they on the 8-pin connector?
jorisvervuurt said:
Yep, it really looks like they just saved on production costs and figured we wouldn’t need the connector. Soldering wires would work too, though I prefer the connectors to be as they would be from the factory. I’ve been looking around the internet and it looks like it’s a 2x4p PHB wire-to-board connector with 2.0mm spacing. Not entirely sure though, but they look identical...
Will keep this thread updated once I hear from Rob at Icebox Auto. :good:
By the way, which pins are needed for the F-CAM RCA-in? I assume ground and signal, but which ones are they on the 8-pin connector?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the way I have it on mine:
vassandrei said:
This is the way I have it on mine:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, thanks for the clear picture!
Today I went ahead and took out the radio (again); this time including the wiring...
I've rewired the rear view camera, so that I can enable it even while driving forward.
I've modified the AV-harness so that I have two +12V wires (with bullet connectors) coming from the CAM-POW wire. See attached photo.
Almost all preparations for a future front-view camera are finished. Modifying the radio's PCB is the only thing left to do, but I'm gonna wait for Icebox Auto's response regarding the warranty.
It's kind of funny to enable the rear view camera while driving forward. :silly:
@vassandrei An additional question regarding the CAM-POW wire:
Do you know how much current (mA) the CAM-POW wire can provide?
As you can see in my previous post, I’d like to connect two cameras to the CAM-POW wire. One of those cameras has 4 white LEDs built-in. How does a relay setup look and when is it needed? Or will two cameras work just fine?
[SOLVED] TL: DR: Diagram show pink wire is for backup camera when the correct wire is brown as indicated by the tag on the wire itself.
I've had my SWM 8802 for about 8 months. I've always used a separate dashcam/backup cam combo, but also purchased a separate backup cam with an RCA output jack, and now I want to use it with my SWM 8802.
My head unit has a dedicated app from the home screen named AV In. Without anything connected (or connected but not powered, it just remains at the boot screen. Now my backup camera is tested and working. It has a power jack and an RCA jack. I tested this by hooking up a 12v 1A power adapter to it and an RCA cable from it to a TV, and it works. So with my vehicle I have the same power adapter connected to an extension cord. and it lights up.
The rear of my head unit has AV1, and AV2 (which I found out are video outputs), but it also has CAMIN and CVBSIN. Whne I have the camera going to CAMIN, and the AV In app activated, nothing shows up except the AV IN boot screen. However when I have the same RCA cable from the camera to the CVBSIN my head unit displays a red warning triangle with, "Viewing while driving strictly prohibited. Parking Break must be engaged to view." I don't know what the CVBS IN does, but if that's the only video port that works I'd like to find a way to disable that parking break sensor. Otherwise, why is the CAMIN not working the way it should? I can't have a backup camera if I have to have the parking brake enabled.
Attached is a photo of the wiring diagram that was advertised with the head unit. What steps should I take? The original RCA video cable has a red wire at both ends. What should those get attached to?
CAMIN is the input for the backup camera (CVBS camera - RCA plug).
CVBSIN is the input for the AUX AV IN camera (CVBS camera - RCA plug).
The backup camera will only display when triggered by the reverse gear signal... The pink wire in your image (PARKING SENSOR CONTROL) needs 12VDC when the vehicle is in reverse gear. This is usually connected to one of the reverse lamps at the rear of the vehicle (as is the power connector for the camera) so that the camera is powered up and the head unit switches tyo the camera input at the same time. The red wire in the video cable makes this easy... Attach the red wire to the pink wire at the head unit and connect the red wire to the power wire at the camera.
On almost all android head units, the backup (reverse) camera input is not available to the android operating system, so no android app can display the rear camera. The backup camera output is connected directly to the screen via the MCU so that the image is available even before the android operating system has booted.
The CVBSIN is the auxiliary in. Most unit require the brake wire (brown wire in your image) to be connected to ground before the image is displayed, for safety reasons. You can usually bypass it by connecting the brown wire directly to ground, or by selecting the bypass option that is available in the advanced car settings of most android head units.
That is excellent information! I wish that was included with the manual for all Android head units. I will try your suggestions and follow up. Thank you for this!
At first I tried the red wire to the stereo and no luck, only to come back and re-read the message and see that it should be a pink wire. I tried that = same.
Prior to this and after my first post. I had taken a terminal block and ran ring terminals to it. I hooked up my existing backup camera to it and it works fine, so I know those terminals are good. I ran new ones from the power connector + and - to the same terminals = still no video and no power to the camera. I made sure the car was on and the gear was in reverse. Perhaps I have to solder these ones on. Seems like the wires are a very small gauge for some reason. My alternative was to use an extension cord and plug that into the power of the camera, then test the video the Android head unit.
I just went ahead and bought a fuse tap, going to try that for the backup camera. I bought two, so if needed I can use another one to supply power to the camera itself.
I got it! It turns out that while the diagram showed the pink wire for the backup camera, the wire was labeled (or colored) wrong. I was out at my car this morning going to attempt it again when I traced the brown wire from the harness and it read "BACK". After some fiddling, I routed everything correctly including the powered RCA cable to a positive for the backup light, and the positive on the other end to the brown wire terminal. I started it up, hit the AV app, put it in reverse, and it displayed! So, it appears that when it down, use pink or brown to determine which one works.
I have a similar issue. My vehicle harness plugs straight in but its missing the cables for the brake. Is there a way of finding this easily? The cam works when plugged into the additional AV socket but so far can get it to work off the reverse.
Thanks.
So I've had absolutely no help from Atoto support on this, but the problem I'm facing is that each time I turn the key or flick right on to ignition my unit boots from scratch each time. I really had hoped for a 2s boot up not complete power on cycles.
If it's a case of my wiring, the harness goes into a steering wheel loom (Connect2) and then on to the car plug. There isn't any visible option of running the yellow wire to a permanent 12v source. It's possible all is wired up correctly and my vehicle (Nissan nv200) has a switched feed. Any thoughts?
invertgoat said:
So I've had absolutely no help from Atoto support on this, but the problem I'm facing is that each time I turn the key or flick right on to ignition my unit boots from scratch each time. I really had hoped for a 2s boot up not complete power on cycles.
If it's a case of my wiring, the harness goes into a steering wheel loom (Connect2) and then on to the car plug. There isn't any visible option of running the yellow wire to a permanent 12v source. It's possible all is wired up correctly and my vehicle (Nissan nv200) has a switched feed. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You'll need to get a multimeter and check to see if the 12v constant wire is truly getting a constant 12v. Test it as soon as you turn the key off and if it does have 12v then wait a couple hours and test it before turning the ignition on to ensure it's not something in the vehicle that is turning it off after a period of time.
If at any time that wire does not have a constant 12v then it's an issue/'feature' with your vehicle. If it always has 12v then potentially an issue with the HU.
kramttocs said:
You'll need to get a multimeter and check to see if the 12v constant wire is truly getting a constant 12v. Test it as soon as you turn the key off and if it does have 12v then wait a couple hours and test it before turning the ignition on to ensure it's not something in the vehicle that is turning it off after a period of time.
If at any time that wire does not have a constant 12v then it's an issue/'feature' with your vehicle. If it always has 12v then potentially an issue with the HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since my OP I actually cut and fused the yellow wire on my harness out of the unit to a permanent 12v source on my fusebox. I then cut the red accessory wire on the head unit and connected it to the yellow wire on the harness. Kind od screwy and in reverse but I guess it makes sense as my old radio didn't need a permanent 12v. It was a simple on off thing.
Fingers crossed I haven't flattened my battery...
I picked up an Ali Express "Sadocom" 4GB /64GB head unit for a 2000-2006 Toyota Corolla and several other related Toyotas. It's slightly wider than a regular 2din Android, but it retains the 7" screen and has two knobs and several buttons on each side. I'm putting it into a 1998 Dodge truck, and it is replacing an older 1GB/16GB unit. The new unit came with ZERO documents, there is no wiring diagram on the unit. It takes several days for the seller to respond, and they are lackluster at best- example I asked for a wiring diagram, and the response was "Which one?". In the about the unit screen, it says it is a 8259, or 8259 pro depending on which screen you are on.
I found a pinout site that had data for the Corolla, and used it by cross-referencing the connectors on the new unit. Most of the wires were the common yellow= battery, red= accessory, black= ground etc. It powered up right away and the illumination lights up when I turn on the parking lights. Speaker balance is correct. The main connector is a 16-pin connector. The only wire I did not use was the blue antenna/amp power since the truck has neither. There is a small gauge black wire with small ring terminal coming from the area of the accessory connectors. It's only a couple of inches long.
Problems I need help with solved (no thanks to vendor):
1. Steering wheel controls. There are two unidentified wires (plus the small black one on a different part of the radio), so I presumed they were the SWC wires. One was Orange/Black and the other White/Black (it was smaller and not next to the white speaker wire, that W/B wire was larger). The older Android I had in the truck worked OK with the factory SWC. My truck uses a +/- SWC system. I tried connecting the Orange/Black to + and the White/Black to - but could not program any button. I also reversed these and the radio sees no SWC input when I try to program them.
Solution: Use OR/BK radio wire to truck SWC + wire, and truck SWC - wire to radio ground wire. Both sets of controls working properly. See attached PDF for diagram.
2. (solved, see update below) I can't change the logo or any other password-protected menu functions. I Googled Sadocom and 8259 and password w/o any success. I read through several threads here, and tried the following codes w/o success (the input limit is 4 numbers- no letters)
Solution: 5678 works.
UPDATE- I did more reading and 5678 worked to unlock the radio.
UPDATE 2- The accessory power problem was user error! I forgot on these older vehicles accessory is one position back from off, not one position forward (I thought accessory was off). I was used to it being one forward after working on some newer vehicles. I have deleted that problem from the post and title for brevity.
UPDATE 3- I measured the two wires in question, and both are putting out about 3.2V positive. I wired the OR/BK to my RD/BK SWC positive wire, and my BK/BR SWC negative to the radio's ground wire. Voila! Working SWC. PDF diagram attached.
Hi There,
I have installed a generic android 10.1 - 2GB (RAM)+32GB (ROM) unit and have an issue with the reverse camera.
When in reverse, screen blanks out but no image.
I have had the unit and the camera replaced and have had 2 experienced installers look at the problem but no fix.
Does anyone have any suggestions to fix the problem?
Also, do you think a 12V DC Kit Power Relay Filter Rectifiers Capacitor may help?
Thanks in advance
Bondibiz said:
Hi There,
I have installed a generic android 10.1 - 2GB (RAM)+32GB (ROM) unit and have an issue with the reverse camera.
When in reverse, screen blanks out but no image.
I have had the unit and the camera replaced and have had 2 experienced installers look at the problem but no fix.
Does anyone have any suggestions to fix the problem?
Also, do you think a 12V DC Kit Power Relay Filter Rectifiers Capacitor may help?
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The radio shows the blank black screen because the radio gets no video signal.
This can be related to 2 different things:
Missing 12V power at the camera.
Measure the cam connection for ground and +12V if your reverse gear is activated.
If there is missing something, you need to follow the cable and check the connections.
The fact that the black screen is shown, tells us that the radio itself is connected correctly.
Wrong CAM-In port used.
Check if you really used the CAM-In and not the Video-In connector
The capacitor is normally not helpful if you don´t get a video signal.
You don´t tell us in your posting how the power is provided to the cam. So that may help for further investigation.
rigattoni said:
The radio shows the blank black screen because the radio gets no video signal.
This can be related to 2 different things:
Missing 12V power at the camera.
Measure the cam connection for ground and +12V if your reverse gear is activated.
If there is missing something, you need to follow the cable and check the connections.
The fact that the black screen is shown, tells us that the radio itself is connected correctly.
Wrong CAM-In port used.
Check if you really used the CAM-In and not the Video-In connector
The capacitor is normally not helpful if you don´t get a video signal.
You don´t tell us in your posting how the power is provided to the cam. So that may help for further investigation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The power to the cam is provided by connecting the positives from the camera to the reverse light positive input and the negative earthed. This is then connected to the android head unit, video input and the reverse cable.
Bondibiz said:
The power to the cam is provided by connecting the positives from the camera to the reverse light positive input and the negative earthed. This is then connected to the android head unit, video input and the reverse cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you check that the Cam is connected to the CAM-IN connector at the unit?
...and did you measure the voltage delivered to the cam?
Which car are you driving? Does it have LED back lights?
Does the cam deliver a picture if you connect it directly to +12V instead of using the back light?
Without measuring, there is no need to answer from your side. This is mandatory to step forward.
i have the same issue. reverse camera show during installation but after few hours no image. only can see the lines. i connect the rca to my tv.it show reverse image .
I already wrote it in another topic. You need to use search instead of a new topic.. I don't know which car and which head unit. I had a VW Golf 6 powered by the reversing light and there was interference, stripes across the image. There are suppressors for powering from the reversing light, also on AliExpress. But the better option is mine. I found a pin on my main unit directly for powering the backup camera, which has 12v when I put it in reverse. It works perfectly, without interference or problems. I have a Can-Bus system. I'll put the pin-out of my unit here. Maybe it will help you.
And what about the black image after putting it in reverse, either there is no 12v power supply for the camera, or the input for the camera is incorrect.. use the cinch Reverse Cam input, do not plug into the cinch Cam-in this it is used for the front camera. Another option is to set the main unit for the backup camera, maybe the system is NTSC and it is set to PAL, or vice versa, depending on where you come from. Another option is to set the input of the backup camera type AHD, and the camera is normal, SD, I I tried the AHD type (better quality) and the picture was black. Inform us.
I got some issued on my android car head unit. No video input, on reserse.
Usinf canbus cable pink for electricity.
Check the video here :