I just dropped my A7, no damage, everything running fine, except there is now a small openning around the power button and I can't get the mat plastic to clip tight like the rest around ...
I didn't try to open it completely and re-clip it ... would that help ?
I need to fix this. Any ideas?
There are 2 "covered" screws (you must have torx) by the "dock port". Once you have unscrewed the screws, slide the back cover out, then you can snap the side panel back in.
Related
Hi!
Can anyone help me with recommendations how to remove back cover from my XDA I? I tryed to do that, but unsuccessfully . I don't want to damage this device, so I decidied to ask some advice.
Xda I case open
Just use a slot screwdriver for the top two slot screws. Then T6 for bottom two. Then unit held screen face-down ; use a plastic lolly stick with sharpend flat edge to work between front and back case. It`s best to start at the bottom right edge, near the hard reset hole.
Using a downward push action, plus, practice the case should just pop apart. Work the stick around the bottom, forcefully. Things should just workout o.k. from there.
Remove the void sticker from screw using tweezers. With care it will remain in tact, and can be replaced.
Remember to be forcefull
anyone have some more details to get into the xda ( i amtrying to replace the LCD) pictures/instructions what ever i can get will be greatly appreciated
I used a T6 torx for the bottom screws and a standard flat blade for the top, remove stylus. If you have finger nails, force your thumb nail along the groove starting near the reset hole, this will pop the tabs, you can then slide your thumb nail all the way around and remove the back. You will then need to remove 2 very small crosshead screws, one at bottom left and the ither at the top offset to the right, this is under a label "warranty void". The flat cables can be removed by bringing forward with a tiny flat screw driver, the retaining tabs, on the small ones try to bring the tabs forward towards the cable, at the same time, once you do one you will get the idea. The larger flat connecter needs the 2 retainers at the sides to be moved slightly to the sides to release the flat cable. Once this is done it is very obvious how to get the rest out. Seperating the screen from the digitizer is not so easy but it will seperate if you are diligent and careful but firm.
cruisin-thru said:
I used a T6 torx for the bottom screws and a standard flat blade for the top, remove stylus. If you have finger nails, force your thumb nail along the groove starting near the reset hole, this will pop the tabs, you can then slide your thumb nail all the way around and remove the back. You will then need to remove 2 very small crosshead screws, one at bottom left and the ither at the top offset to the right, this is under a label "warranty void". The flat cables can be removed by bringing forward with a tiny flat screw driver, the retaining tabs, on the small ones try to bring the tabs forward towards the cable, at the same time, once you do one you will get the idea. The larger flat connecter needs the 2 retainers at the sides to be moved slightly to the sides to release the flat cable. Once this is done it is very obvious how to get the rest out. Seperating the screen from the digitizer is not so easy but it will seperate if you are diligent and careful but firm.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks bud... well i dont want to mess with the digitiser if it is a pain the spare i am getting is having a prob wih sound so i will just go ahead and replace both instead of trying to seperate them... will keep u posted as soon as the other one arrives...
if anyone has more comments plz feel free to add the more the merrier and the chances of a screw up are reduced.
i will also try take pictures along the way so that someone else gains.
Broken XDA
Hi all,
can anyone help me fix my xda. A couple of weeks ago a bit of the headphone plug broke inside the connector. In an attempt to clear it I opened up the XDA. But now it doesn't power on after I've replaced the cover.
Any pointers would be much appreciated
Before you open your phone you should push the unscrewed top half of the stylus in the hole bottom right of your xda, this disconnects the battery, you need to check the flat shiny connecters on the edge of the board make sure thay havent been pulled out, the power from batter is on 2 contact pads inside rear of case so I dont think that is the problem. You could try using the stylus as mentioned as it may need switching back on.
Hi,
The keyboard stopped working on my device so I opened it up to find the tiny flat keyboard cable not properley seated on the mainboard. I tried putting it back but 1)its SOOOO tine and fidley, and 2) the tiny plastic saddle / clip bit that holds the cable down broke in half.
I suspect it may have been cracked already somehow and that why it came loose.
Anyway, anyone know where I can get one of these little clips? Any tips for putting them back together?
Thanks!
Anthony
i dropped my tytn the otherday now the slide out keyboard wont work,or lite up, does this mean some things come off in side and i need to dissmantle it?,
Be an idea to check... Do a search for the HTC Hermes service guide and you will find out what you need to do to take apart. You should only need to remove the back cover to see if the connector has come out. Should be on the left hand side about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom next to the bottom protective plate on the Main board. Push connector in(sorry, don't have photo's). If it clips back in the that was the problem, if it still won't work then other problem.
Be careful of the battery catch and camera switch when replacing the back cover...
Hey anyone already opened up their HD2? I need to open mine since my back button got stuck while my baby girl tried to press too hard on it. Now the back button feels like it's not presing at all compared to the other buttons.
i also have a spare housing that I am thinking of putting in.
Anyone can point me to the right direction?
Thanks
i've had the back off mine.
first search youtube for leo disassembly and you'll find an htc disassembly video: "leo Ds" (and another "leo As" for reassembly). they are somewhat daunting, but do not despair!
mine came back from a htc warranty service with a fingerprint on the inside of the lens glass and i couldn't be bothered sending it back again for cleaning so i did it myself. cracking the case isn't all that easy, or wasn't for me.
after you remove the 4 screws (get the void sticker and moisture indicator out with a pin), you still have to unclip the back from the chassis. WHY do electronics manufacturers design them like that??! in the video the tech uses a plastic hooked tool which i do not possess so i had to rely on my fingernails -- which i nearly pulled out! i tried for a good 15 minutes before it finally separated (with me sweating all the way that i was going to damage the LCD with the force i was having to apply). but it all finished happily in the end.
good luck with yours!
Not sure if it's worth it.
1st things 1st, watch the video on youtube..
.
Assuming u broke the keypad (just like me, but mine is right in the middle) at about the 6th minute of the disassembly video, they'll show u where u'd be replacing the keypad.
Removing the 'lcm and follow the indicator' isnt as simple as it look. you'd find the glue to be really tough. Putting it in an oven, sure, it'd be hot to the touch, and let it cool down a bit it'd be hard again. Hairdryer? Still too hot. Gloves?u'll lose touch sesitivity. So what i did was use a small blade/box cutter and cut which ever visible glue... and assembling, i had to replace all the double sided tape with some cheap ones...weak ones. Could be a good thing.. or a bad thing. Good, cos i know i dont have to wrestle with some really tough glue..in case i ruined my lcd again.... bad.. cos its..not that secure, i rmember that i nearly ripped it open unintentionally!
Neway replacing my digitizer+lcd took about 3 hours...had a couple of breaks, and spent 15 mins looking for the proximity sensor or was it the ambient light sense 'lense'..very tiny things those things are. So be careful...cos i eventually lost it..grrr
Anyway, Best of luck.. .now to find a replacement keypad that cost less than 5usd..hehe
dsx2b said:
1st things 1st, watch the video on youtube..
spent 15 mins looking for the proximity sensor or was it the ambient light sense 'lense'..very tiny things those things are. So be careful...cos i eventually lost it..grrr5usd..hehe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a good tip here is to work with the phone in a large tupperware box so that if something drops out it can't go anywhere.
note to the OP: i've read several posts where people damaged the ribbon cable connecting the bottom buttons to the mainboard so be careful. it looks very delicate.
Having just opened mine up several times recently I can offer a couple of tips.
1. Unscrew the four screws - they are T5 torx size.
2. Use thin stiff plastic pieces (I found the plastic case that nails are sold in to be the right stiffness and thickness). Cut some up and push them between the case and the phone works so that they hold each of the locking tabs out in turn. I used five or six bits to do this. Three on the vol control side, two at the top and one on the top area of the other side.
3. Then pushing out at the top where the battery would sit while prying with finger nails outward on the long vol control side you can work each of the locking tabs out so the plastic bits hold them unlocked. Do this along that side, across the top and down the other side working each one a little bit as you go and repeat.
4. This should allow the top edge to come out allowing you to lift is out and "up" so that the button end slides out.
This worked very well for me..several times.
The display is held to the electronics portion by double sided tape and yes it is very strong. But you can soften the adhesion significantly using a heat gun. But you must be careful to heat the whole area to avoid thermal differences cracking the screen. The heat will loosen the tapes grip allowing you to pry the screen away from the electronics side.
Note that the screen is made up of the LCD covered by the glued on digitizer and they are connected with a single ribbon cable on the lower right hand side (I think from memory). This means the screen has to lift off with a hinge action. Lifting along the opposite long edge to the ribbon cable, rather than lift from the top or bottom.
Hope this helps.
Hi, I tried to open mine and followeed the video, be careful as the video makes it look much easier than what it really is, I ended up ruining my device, just take your time and do it slowly.
Thanks guys! Gonna try it over the weekend. Worst case is that I break my case or put some cosmetic damage. I have a spare case though hehe.
The problem about the key is the back button feels stuck.... the other buttons are snappy and have a tactile sort of feel, where as the back button doesn't have the same feel. looks like it was pressed to hard and never popped back up...
just annoying when i've been very careful with the phone.
ok looks like i wouldn't have to open my phone.... i tried to but then there's a warranty void sticker, so I just called tmobile and explained about the back key being stuck.... and they're sending me a replacement.
i'm gonna lose my invisible shield full body though... but better than risking breaking my phone....
That is if you're not scared to take out sixteen screws and figure out to take the back plastic fame off. I havent found a definitive guide for fixing gps and reading quite a few posts of pinch this area or twist/torque your phone and not working I decided to take the phone apart. I did find video guides for screen replacement that I used to figure out this adventure. Heat gun is not needed, but recommended. I highly recommend the plastic spudgers you can get from places like ifixit, but all I had was plastic butter knife and my computer repair kit, of which you will definitely need a #00 Philips screwdrivers.
Ok. The first picture is what you want. How I got to that point was I took out all 16 screws. If you have a heat gun, heat the edges of screen from front first. But if that is too much trouble or scared you'll burn your screen then you're going to have wing it like I did. Start separating the plastic inside the battery cavity. Be careful not to break the little strip of plastic around the micro SD card like I did. But try and make sure you have gap between the phone and insides of the battery cavity. If you have heated your screen adhesive up this will be less tricky. Push out on the micro SD card slot and upper right area of battery cavity. There are plastic locking tabs around the back plastic frame that lock into mid metal frame. Don't be scared to push but also take caution of your screen as our amoled's are very fragile. Keep pushing. Separate the inside parts again if you have to. You're trying to open enough one side will pop out enough you can get a spudger or in my case a plastic butter knife under one side screen and separate the adhesive and give you better chance of pushing out the phone away from the plastic back. Take care when pushing your knife or spudger underneath screen. Only go in about .25"/.5cm max. Don't want to scratch or mess up screen or connectors. In my picture it kind of looks hinged but is because there is adhesive on the other side keeping it like that. But keep pushing til it happens. Once it does separate the rest is easy.
In the second picture you'll notice 3 parts of plastic that look like they can be separated from the back plastic frame. Don't pay attention to that part. Pay attention to the contacts underneath those 3 places where it is like your antenna contacts are on the pcbs underneath. Some other references said the contacts above the vibrator motor were the gps contacts. Well I bent those up and snapped phone back together and tried gps. Didn't work. Btw, you should probably use something plastic or non conductive to bend the contacts up. My plastic butter knife was too thick so I used a very very small flat blade and was particularly careful. I bent every contact related to those 3 pieces of plastic I pointed out on the back plastic. I snapped back together and tested again. Satellites galore. Locked 6 satswithin 15 seconds and locked to another couple next 15 seconds down to 30 feet, inside my apartment. Turned gps off and went outside turned back on and was locking almost 15 satellites in less than 15 seconds to less than 10 feet accuracy. A few more seconds and I picked up more satellites.
Anyways, you can finish there or do some maintenance inside your phone. On all the places those metal contacts contacted on inside of the back plastic frame I used a qtip with cotton torn off and a drop of arctic clean #2 to clean the black spots I saw on contacts on inside of plastic frame popped off. I also cleaned all the contacts. Pushed down on any connector I saw. Used another qtip to clean around the USB cavity on the back plastic frame. Used another qtip with cotton torn off to clean inside USB port. I pushed on the top PCB where underneath are your display related connectors. One thing I forgot was to clean camera since it was exposed but luckily no dust or fingerprints got in it so my camera is fine. While you have it open figure out anything else to routine. Look at the USB PCB closely and take pictures if your USB port I'd flaking out on you for future reference. When done snap back together.
As an aside, when I got to the point I was ready to fully put back together, I notice my power button was mushy when I tried powering on to test before i put all screws in. Took it apart again and kind of slipped. Scared me, and I had reason to because when I put frames back together and made sure power and volume buttons weren't mushy. My screen didn't come on but it vibrated like it was on. Took apart again and pushed on the top PCB and heard a resounding click. Snapped back together turned and screen was good. Whew. Then I put EVERYTHING back together. 16 screws back in. Double checked all the tightnesses by hand and try not to strip any. I'm sure that will be a bad headache if you strip a screw.
After that, *#0*# and do every test to make sure all hardware is good. Goto developer options and Test your pointer location and touches. Test your repaired gps.
Sorry I didn't have better pictures. The moto x is decent camera but didn't take all the pictures I needed because I winged it with common sense and some of the pictures didn't come out well that would helped a little. If you follow all the directions, are careful and pay attention to detail that I might've not pointed out your gps and cellular reception should all have improved if you wiped the contacts clean and bent up a hair. Should've got rid of oxidation, dirt And improved contact so reception should improve a couple dB and your SNR on gps should be quite good.
Second picture didn't show... so here it is... remember this picture is for you to figure out all the contacts underneath the 3 plastic covers on the back plastic frame itself.
Did this thread go unused even though I see people still having GPS issues? GPS is still awesome on my notes after busting it open.