Database Users

stylus problem in/out

hello to everybody!
i got my xda trion 2 weeks ago. after one week, it was impossible to bring the stylus into the xda. so i got a new one.
after again one week, the stylus wont come out of the trion.
someone else prob's with the stylus?
greetings
karl

+ 1, probleme like a wizard too

same ting happened with my TyTN today...

+1 with one week old tytn

Same here...
First I couldn't get it out / then I couldn't get it in / then it would simply slide in-and-out freely to the point that only gravity was holding it in place (sorry if this sounds dirty, but this is what happened).
Had to have mine replaced. I've heard this issue has been around since the Wizard...
I really hope I don't have the same problem on TyTn #2!!!

After a few days of having mine suddenly the stylus was becoming enromously difficult to remove. At one point it just wasnt moving so after a forceful tug it pulled out and a tiny transparent square of plastic/rubber fell out with it. Looks like it was in there to keep it in place but i have no idea how to put it back in. Now the stylus removes fine and stays in place too :shock:

I had the same problem.
Could not get the staylus in with my TyTN.
So I did the mistake and pushed it in... a "knack" sound alerted me that something bad happened. Could not get the stylus in still... so I yanked a small rubber plastic piece from the stylus hole on my TyTN. Now I can slide easily the stylus in.
From teh reports I heard my guess is that the rubebr plastic inside the TyTN is used to firmly hold the stylus in. While without this rubebr plastic there is nothing to hold the stylus until you fully place it inside the TyTN.

andmjones said:
After a few days of having mine suddenly the stylus was becoming enromously difficult to remove. At one point it just wasnt moving so after a forceful tug it pulled out and a tiny transparent square of plastic/rubber fell out with it. Looks like it was in there to keep it in place but i have no idea how to put it back in. Now the stylus removes fine and stays in place too :shock:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here TyTN 1 week old.

same here,
think I'll swap mine over for a new one.....

raptorian said:
I had the same problem.
Could not get the staylus in with my TyTN.
So I did the mistake and pushed it in... a "knack" sound alerted me that something bad happened. Could not get the stylus in still... so I yanked a small rubber plastic piece from the stylus hole on my TyTN. Now I can slide easily the stylus in.
From teh reports I heard my guess is that the rubebr plastic inside the TyTN is used to firmly hold the stylus in. While without this rubebr plastic there is nothing to hold the stylus until you fully place it inside the TyTN.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here in 5 days

happend with me after 2 weeks. I've been struggling for a week, and now it's workng again! Don't know how long it will last. I hope it won't brake down, I bought Hermes thrue internetshop. Always sick to return things.

I carry something like this, and only use the tytn stylus in emergencies. I'm hoping this will reduce wear.

Same here - less than 2 weeks.
:shock:

Same here 5 days, luckley I had a replacment on order for BT problems recived that today lets see how this one goes.

me 2
my TYTN's stylus wouldn't stay in the hole.
i sent my tytn to be replaced (due to BT problems and screen alignment)
and i hope i t won't happen again.
when i put the tytn in the box to be sent so the stylus stopped falling :? )
that is odd

My stylus is a little difficult to remove at times, so I had a look down inside the stylus hole and it appears that there are three of those little pink rubber squares protruding from the side and a dark rubber 'socket' at the end to grip the tip when it's fully inserted. The pink squares are obviously there to provide a little more grip along the length of the stylus, but my guess is that even without them the 'socket' at the end would hold the stylus in place. I imagine that over time the pink rubber will either soften up or disintegrate entirely with the friction.

Solution stylus problem
I had the same problem with my stylus, my solution is take a Poster Buddy Brand name Pritt it is so called here in Holland you can place posters and photo's with it on wals, doors etc. looks like white rubber glue, think I see it in the UK with the name Sticky here you can buy it with photostores and bookstores etc. Take a small piece of it turn it between your vingers to a small ball and put it in the stylus hole after that push it to the end with your stylus.
After I do this I have no further problem with the stylus it works great.

Same issue here... the 2nd day I had it a small transparent square rubber went out of the stylus hole. Now i can put it in and out without problems...

Loose/Jammed Stylus
I'm afraid sending device back for replacement/repair for the stylus problem and loose locking keyboard may only be a temporary fix. Having had my device dismantled I can see exactly what the problesms are with both stylus and keyboard.
For the stylus there is a small block of clear plastic designed to create a friction lock to stop it falling out. There is luckily another small plastic spring lock at the far end so if the stylus is fully in it should click in and not drop out even without the plastic block. The problem is that the plastic block is not held firmly in its slot and as it gets loose creates far too much friction against the stylus which can then drag it right out.
The loose keyboards are due to the metal runners (that you see on back of keyboard partially springing apart (breaking tiny micro welds) at the ends where they lock (or not!) open and closed. These runners if they have sprung open like this will never lock firmly again unless you perform a bit of DIY.
I have performed small operations to fix both these problems and my Keyboard now locks very firmly both open and closed. The stylus issue is dealt with internally with a felt runner at a specific location. BEWARE of course performing these operations will invalidate your warranty. I can be much more specific for anyone who wishes to contact me directly particularly with the keyboard issue which requires quite a chore in dismantling the device - though I can now perform this in half an hour start to finish (Not something I'm proud of with a new device, but I had to workout just how to do the fixes!! )
Actually otherwise I think TYTN is great - superb in fact which is why I did not send it back for repair - couldn't bear to be without it!.
PS Finger around the screen method works every time for me forget all that align screen caper.
Mike

@mikechannon: Do you have high quality pictures of disassembled device where we can see the chipset references? we need to gather information on the hardware used inside the Hermes...

How to replace the digitizer.

I cracked my aria screen pretty much right after I got it, Managed to get my hands on a new digitizer and replaced it. I found a quick walkthrough on Android forums. It helped but had a few points that could have been more succinct.
Posting here in case anyone needs.
Took me about an 1hr 30min the first time trying to figure it out on my own.
My additional comments are indicated by **.
I put some addendums to @Jcawesome's steps...
( http://androidforums.com/1211507-post42.html )
1. Remove backcover
2. Remove Battery, sim chip, and memory card
3. Unscrew the top two screws (meaning the end farthest from the memory card.)
4. Using a flat plastic wedge, (I used the one that came from my ebay order, it looks like the blue tool in this pic )
5. Carefully pull off the parts at the top being very cautious not to break anything. (Do not pull the circuit board out, only lift the end closest to the edge of the phone)
** there are two pieces to pull off....with the phone laying flat (screen down and the top facing away from you) a larger yellow piece with an attached back speaker comes out towards you. a second piece pulls up (north as if on a map)... but becareful because there is a bunch of tape and tackiness all throughout this thing (literally I felt it was held together by tape). I actually pulled off the grill on front as well.
** the circuit board is kept attached near the top right. the element that is the power button snaps off. (there are two little dots just to the right of the speaker with what looks like blackish tape that connects to the circuit board... you can pop this off.
With that off, I could lift the circuit board about 30 degrees or so... I wasn't comfortable pulling it back any farther than that.
I did step 5 AFTER I got the screen off.
6. Using the flat plastic wedge again, push the wedge tool between the phone and the broken screen. (It will feel like you are breaking it but it is fine, it is held on by a sticky paste that will slowly give way)
** careful on this part... especially difficult depending on how your screen is cracked. but it is just a bunch of sticky tape that is keeping it attached.... I had to peel away the goo and connection near the top sensitive areas as my ear piece speaker came off with the goo.
7. Disconnect the connecter from the old digitizer to the new one and remove the old digitizer.
**I used a small little tweezer and sneaked it in underneath the circuit board to pull the digitizer connection out.... a little difficult to push back in, but just took some patience.
8. Being careful not to put fingerprints on any exposed surface of either the phone lcd or the replace screen, place the new digitizer in the exact spot of the old one.
** have some lint free microfiber cloth handy and perhaps some screen cleaner.... I spent about 15 minutes cleaning the lcd screen before laying the replacement digitizer back on.
I actually did step 9 before step 8.
9. Connect the connecter from the new digitizer to the board, be careful not to pull the circuit board out and do not scratch the board.
10. You may want to use some glue to hold the new screen on, hopefully this will not happen again. My phone still had enough of the sticky paste left to hold the new screen fine.
** I agree... the first time you replace it will be fine.... afterwards tho, I can see it running out of tackiness.....
11. Put the phone back together in reverse order.
12. Turn it one and everything should be working again.
** in a nut shell
1) take out two screws
2) detach two yellow shell pieces
3) unhook a latch that is the power button
4) pry off the screen
5) lift the circuit board approx 30 degrees.
6) detach digitizer connection from underneath using tweezer
7) replace digitizer connection, return circuit board flat
8)position digitizer and press down to adhere
9)replace two plastic yellow shell pieces
10) screw it back together
done.
let me know if you have any questions.=)
enjoy your "brand" new aria.

dude,, this is a PITA,, I did,, was about 1hour, the hardest part,, is to not put the fingers on the LCD and cleaning the new screen..... dust particles everywhere... and at the end still got one...

Sorry eortizr, If I made it seem easier than it was. I spent quite a while cleaning the lcd screen when I replaced the digitizer... I don't think it's possible to change the digitizer without getting fingerprints on it though. But with some diligence and working in a clean area, I was able to keep all dust and finger prints out of the final product.

My wife dropped hers. Cracked up pretty good but still functional. Think I might just go ahead and pay the $100 and have someone who does it for a living do it.
I can totally see me trying DIY concentrating real hard dripping sweat all over it and ruining the MB. LOL

Replaced the screen today. Half way in I thought I definitely bit off more than I could chew. I got it done though. A couple of things I learned:
The digitizer unplugs away from you or toward the screen with the phone laying flat (screen down and the top facing away from you). I kept thinking i had to unplug it by pulling it north, toward the top of the phone.
I dropped and threw away both the front speaker and the very small rubber piece that covers the proximity sensor so... when I turned the phone on everything looked good, until I answered my phone. The screen went blank and I couldn't hear anything. I found the speaker and the proximity sensor cover and replaced them.
I would do it again, its worth saving $50 or so.
Thanks for the tutorial dreamflux.
I found the whole kit including the adhesive here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180643624141
This is the seller in case the sale ends and the link breaks: http://myworld.ebay.com/chinaphoneaccessories/?_trksid=p4340.l2559

I found a replacement digitizer from tmart dot com for $55, free shipping. Just search Aria on their site, you'll find it. Sorry, I can't seem to post links yet.
What was peculiar, was that it has only the HTC logo in the center, and no ATT logo. Looks nice and clean. They included plastic separator tools and torx drivers, though nothing in this phone uses torx. The site is a little shady, and while their headquartered in Hong Kong, it shipped from Brooklyn NY about 5 days after purchase, priority mail. The swap wasn't bad, but my only complaint is that the lights from the softkeys seem to shine up onto the screen, but you get used to it. It's probably because I didn't transfer the stickers over on the bottom of the digitizer.

Thanks for the directions ... I just replaced my digitizer. I had 2 major problems: 1) my power button doesn't work any longer (I'm going to take it apart and try to put it back together and see if that fixes it), and 2) you HAVE to use BLACK sticky stuff to seat the bottom of the digitizer - I used the clear stuff that came with the digitizer, and now I have tons of light bleeding into the LCD from the button backlights. I'm not sure what to do about the bleed ... I guess I'll have to tear it down again and put black stuff in ... damn.

That's the deal with that excess backlighting! I thought it was just a matter of the screen being misaligned. Terrible that I have to replace that black foam, it got shredded while I was dismantling the thing to replace the digitizer.

eortizr said:
dude,, this is a PITA,, I did,, was about 1hour, the hardest part,, is to not put the fingers on the LCD and cleaning the new screen..... dust particles everywhere... and at the end still got one...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its always suggested to work in a dust-free space but we all know that's virtually impossible.

I had a bit of fun with dust & fingerprints when replacing my LCD after getting my Aria, After a time or two of taking apart and being unsuccessful, I left it as is with one visible flake.

If you take a hot shower the steam in the air sticks to dust particles leaving no dust
Sent from my Liberty using XDA App

aria
use electrical tape to cover up the lighting that comes through the digitizer
use 3m double sided tape to hold digitizer to lcd
use rubber gloves to change screen to not get finger prints on it

dust906 said:
use electrical tape to cover up the lighting that comes through the digitizer
use 3m double sided tape to hold digitizer to lcd
use rubber gloves to change screen to not get finger prints on it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
*Just to make sure I'm putting the electrical tape on correctly*
put the double sided tape on and then put the electrical tap (sticky side facing up) on top of the ds tape then apply the screen to the lcd

Thanks for the explanation dreamflux.. This, along with some youtube videos helped me out to change the digitizer, but patience is THE key...

Brought my phone with me to Cedar Point the other day. Survived the entire day....until I stopped at the bars on the way home. Got out of the car, forgetting I had my phone on my lap---shattered right by the track pad.
Just got my digitizer today for $22 on ebay (not bad) After 2 hours and a migraine later, everything came out great.
The only 2 things wrong now are the light from the softkeys bleeding onto the screen and out the sides (I'm just going to shut those lights off), and the trackpad sits a little lower than the screen now. Either I didn't align it right, or the glue isn't holding well. It's weird, if you press on the glass anound the trackpad, it wakes the phone (cm7 trackpad wake).
I only plan on using the phone for a few more months, so I'm happy with the results.

Uhhggg, did the replacement on my son's Aria. It wasn't so bad, but now the LCD screen doesn't light.
I get the vibration when you first hit the power button. Is this correct? I'm not too familiar with the phone.
Rececked the connector for the LCD and it seems to be snapped in.

brivette007 said:
Brought my phone with me to Cedar Point the other day. Survived the entire day....until I stopped at the bars on the way home. Got out of the car, forgetting I had my phone on my lap---shattered right by the track pad.
Just got my digitizer today for $22 on ebay (not bad) After 2 hours and a migraine later, everything came out great.
The only 2 things wrong now are the light from the softkeys bleeding onto the screen and out the sides (I'm just going to shut those lights off), and the trackpad sits a little lower than the screen now. Either I didn't align it right, or the glue isn't holding well. It's weird, if you press on the glass anound the trackpad, it wakes the phone (cm7 trackpad wake).
I only plan on using the phone for a few more months, so I'm happy with the results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did you have any problems with the digitizer responsivenes or something like that? I'm need one and curious about the quality of the cheap digitizers in ebay.

so I replaced my friends screen and now the phone turns on, has sound, vibrates, but just doesnt turn the screen on... the light sensor works and all, and if I call it, it rings and everything, just the screen won't turn on it stays black... I've checked the 2 ribbons and everything is fine, anyone have a suggestion..??

jdmsohc22 said:
so I replaced my friends screen and now the phone turns on, has sound, vibrates, but just doesnt turn the screen on... the light sensor works and all, and if I call it, it rings and everything, just the screen won't turn on it stays black... I've checked the 2 ribbons and everything is fine, anyone have a suggestion..??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so what I meant was the digitizer turns on, but it is just a dark lit screen, no visual anything going on.. If i call it from another phone it will ring, but when i swipe right to left to answer and press around where the answer button is it doesn't respond either, just rings and rings... anyways just wanted to elaborate a little more..
---------- Post added at 02:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:08 AM ----------
msailer said:
Uhhggg, did the replacement on my son's Aria. It wasn't so bad, but now the LCD screen doesn't light.
I get the vibration when you first hit the power button. Is this correct? I'm not too familiar with the phone.
Rececked the connector for the LCD and it seems to be snapped in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same thing is happening with me as well..

^^^^ Soooooo.....I got the same thing on my wife phone, the BLACK SCREEN. I did my homework and read and watched videos on how to replace the digitizer. I was in a steamy room with all my tools from work with pre-cut electrical and .005" double sticky tape. im a mechanical assembler. I did everything to the tee and was very carefull. i think i got a bunk one from china. I bought mine for $19 from china. It had at&t logo and everything. you get what you pay for? So I've got to pay now $50 for a replacement phone through ins. Not bad because before i made the claim i thought the replacement was $150. Anyways just a heads up. Now i got a phone of spare parts Whats cool is that i get to root her phone all over again. So if anyone here has had the black screen. let me know what happened next with your situation. Did you fix it? replaced it with another one? thanks

[Q] Broken LCD screen :(

Hey im panicing so bad rite now. I just broke my htc's LCD screen ! Mad sad from this disaster . Dont got much money so can someone please tell me whats the cheapest or best way to replace or fix it ? I really need help because im freaking out!

The repair choices
There are basically two choices. Doing it yourself or having it repaired.
In either case the most straight forward is to replace the screen and digitizer as one unit. I expect you can still see things on the screen yet its cracked from one corner. Its the digitizer on the top that usually suffers but its hard to replace by itself. There is a YouTube video showing how to do this (search on Replace Touch Screen on HTC HD2 on YouTube).
If you are game to do it yourself (an electronics tech would be able to do it fairly well, though it is still fairly difficult) then you can buy a complete screen and digitizer off ebay (around $100). Getting the unit out of the case is tricky as its held in with 4xT5 Torx screws (easy bit) and lock notches around the case (tricky part). I found thin stiff plastic bits slotted in between the module and the case works well at releasing the locking notches. Then press out at the top of the battery area, while pulling the top edge of the plastic case out and down with your finger nails. One side at a time. Don't forget to remove the SIM card and SD card as these will hold the module in place if not removed.
The double sided tapes used to hold the screen in place are a problem, but warming them up with a carefully applied heat gun does release them. I would add that there is no need to unscrew any of the electronics boards as the screen can be replaced without doing this. Releasing the screen ribbon cable connector is done by flipping up the black locking section on the ribbon socket. Slide in the new cable, lock it down, then curl it around as you slide it backward under the metal case so that the curl in the cable occurs in that small space under the metal rather than being folded over sharply, which can fracture the ribbon cable "wires" rendering the screen dead.
Press the screen back down onto the tape (hopefully the tape has remained slick enough as its all that holds the screen in place). Be careful to align the edges and top and bottom correctly, otherwise your buttons won't work and the screen will not sit in the case properly. You can test the buttons as you align to feel for the slight click. Be sure to test all four as alignment left to right is just as critical for full function as up and down. You should also watch to be sure the light sensor little plastic bit (its a small clear cube of plastic) doesn't fall out and disappear while you are doing the screen swap and it stays in place during reassembly.
Then press it home into the plastic case. I remove the volume button (if it hasn't fallen out already) as it tends to push the volume button pads out of alignment (they are only held in with yellow tape (be careful not to loose them). Then with it all snapped in place pull out at the volume button section and slot the button back in place. Orientation is fairly obvious with the button points lower down and the joining bar going behind the case plastic to lock it in place (all with the screen facing upward). You may find the volume button only works if you press down on the screen slightly. This movement will be taken up when you screw the 4 torx screws back in.
Finish by powering up (with fingers crossed) and test. Hopefully all working.
Alternatively, if thats put you off doing it yourself, get it repaired by a service agent (around $300). Then it comes back all done with a small warranty. Most of the phone providers will be able to direct you to a good independent service agent.

HD2's innards: Attempted vibration motor fix gone horribly wrong.. HELP!

I'm hoping somebody with some knowledge of the HD2's innards can help me...
My vibration stopped working on my HD2. I found the plastic LED flash cover to be 'pushed in' (with the help of a couple xda threads I dug up). Others said it was an easy fix: Open the case and push that piece of plastic back into place.
I opened up the case to correct it. But after putting it back together not only does vibrate not work, but the volume keys, speakers (both earpiece and speakerphone), flash, notification led, and camera all don't work.
I obviously screwed something up, but I have no clue what it could have been. I was very careful. One thing I'll note is that when I pulled the case apart, the plastic volume rocker went flying. When putting the phone back together I got it back into place so that I THOUGHT it should work (it was seated properly and felt "clicky" for up/down movements.
But clearly wasn't just the volume rocker that was affected. It doesn't seem that I pulled anything else loose or anything like that...
But no luck, all that I listed above is non functional, and what I'm left with is a glorified 3.5 in tablet
Any ideas?? Thanks in advance!!!

Snapped a couple quick pics which may help:
http://i50.tinypic.com/mmsa36.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/sl1kdx.jpg
Unfortunately when comparing these to other pictures of the inside of the HD2 that I found online, I fail to see any differences, or anything I could have inadvertently screwed up.

Most likely you screwed up(or disconnected from motherboard) somehow your main flexboard, but your picture are not usable for this, you should take off your motherboard+main flexboard from chassis to have a full view!

You probobly just disconnected a small cable. I have no idea of the HD2 innards but did multiple repairs of small stuffs and the flat cables hold in place by a plastic clicker pull out easily - just reopen and check them all, you should be fine.

Thanks for the input! I figured it's something like that, just one small cable. But I didn't even take off the board at all... The pictures show the full extent of the disassembly... Do we still think it's necessary to disassemble it further?
I checked all visible connections, but yeah, maybe I somehow yanked out something that is NOT visible. I'll try to check again today... In the meantime, any more ideas from anyone else? Thanks!

For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...

Have u tried starting up the phone without the backing? I had this issue when I painted my housing the led cover was stopping the motor from spinning but if i took out the backing it works. So I just trimmed the led cover and now it works.

Mister B said:
For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm nooby with regard to this stuff; I only attempted the repair since I read in a couple other threads about multiple self-proclaimed non-super-tech savvy people were able to open it up and move the plastic LED cover for an easy fix.
So what exactly am I looking for with regard to the main-flex? Where is it? I thought I wouldn't really see that unless I removed the board which I haven't done... is it still possible I knocked it loose or damaged it? I didn't think that would be possible since I ONLY removed the back cover (though it does take a slightly uncomfortable amount of force to do so, so I guess anything can happen...).
If not the main flex cable, is there anything else specific to look at which may be disconnected? It seems to be all the stuff at the top of the phone that fails to work (camera, speakers, vibration, flash, volume keys). While the stuff on the bottom (other hardware buttons, charging jack, headphone jack, etc).
THanks!

I have given up. After being stumped briefly how to hard reset the device without the volume keys working (I have Android installed), I was able to do it via ADB from the Android dev kit.
To ebay I go...

GPS problems? Have the fix...

That is if you're not scared to take out sixteen screws and figure out to take the back plastic fame off. I havent found a definitive guide for fixing gps and reading quite a few posts of pinch this area or twist/torque your phone and not working I decided to take the phone apart. I did find video guides for screen replacement that I used to figure out this adventure. Heat gun is not needed, but recommended. I highly recommend the plastic spudgers you can get from places like ifixit, but all I had was plastic butter knife and my computer repair kit, of which you will definitely need a #00 Philips screwdrivers.
Ok. The first picture is what you want. How I got to that point was I took out all 16 screws. If you have a heat gun, heat the edges of screen from front first. But if that is too much trouble or scared you'll burn your screen then you're going to have wing it like I did. Start separating the plastic inside the battery cavity. Be careful not to break the little strip of plastic around the micro SD card like I did. But try and make sure you have gap between the phone and insides of the battery cavity. If you have heated your screen adhesive up this will be less tricky. Push out on the micro SD card slot and upper right area of battery cavity. There are plastic locking tabs around the back plastic frame that lock into mid metal frame. Don't be scared to push but also take caution of your screen as our amoled's are very fragile. Keep pushing. Separate the inside parts again if you have to. You're trying to open enough one side will pop out enough you can get a spudger or in my case a plastic butter knife under one side screen and separate the adhesive and give you better chance of pushing out the phone away from the plastic back. Take care when pushing your knife or spudger underneath screen. Only go in about .25"/.5cm max. Don't want to scratch or mess up screen or connectors. In my picture it kind of looks hinged but is because there is adhesive on the other side keeping it like that. But keep pushing til it happens. Once it does separate the rest is easy.
In the second picture you'll notice 3 parts of plastic that look like they can be separated from the back plastic frame. Don't pay attention to that part. Pay attention to the contacts underneath those 3 places where it is like your antenna contacts are on the pcbs underneath. Some other references said the contacts above the vibrator motor were the gps contacts. Well I bent those up and snapped phone back together and tried gps. Didn't work. Btw, you should probably use something plastic or non conductive to bend the contacts up. My plastic butter knife was too thick so I used a very very small flat blade and was particularly careful. I bent every contact related to those 3 pieces of plastic I pointed out on the back plastic. I snapped back together and tested again. Satellites galore. Locked 6 satswithin 15 seconds and locked to another couple next 15 seconds down to 30 feet, inside my apartment. Turned gps off and went outside turned back on and was locking almost 15 satellites in less than 15 seconds to less than 10 feet accuracy. A few more seconds and I picked up more satellites.
Anyways, you can finish there or do some maintenance inside your phone. On all the places those metal contacts contacted on inside of the back plastic frame I used a qtip with cotton torn off and a drop of arctic clean #2 to clean the black spots I saw on contacts on inside of plastic frame popped off. I also cleaned all the contacts. Pushed down on any connector I saw. Used another qtip to clean around the USB cavity on the back plastic frame. Used another qtip with cotton torn off to clean inside USB port. I pushed on the top PCB where underneath are your display related connectors. One thing I forgot was to clean camera since it was exposed but luckily no dust or fingerprints got in it so my camera is fine. While you have it open figure out anything else to routine. Look at the USB PCB closely and take pictures if your USB port I'd flaking out on you for future reference. When done snap back together.
As an aside, when I got to the point I was ready to fully put back together, I notice my power button was mushy when I tried powering on to test before i put all screws in. Took it apart again and kind of slipped. Scared me, and I had reason to because when I put frames back together and made sure power and volume buttons weren't mushy. My screen didn't come on but it vibrated like it was on. Took apart again and pushed on the top PCB and heard a resounding click. Snapped back together turned and screen was good. Whew. Then I put EVERYTHING back together. 16 screws back in. Double checked all the tightnesses by hand and try not to strip any. I'm sure that will be a bad headache if you strip a screw.
After that, *#0*# and do every test to make sure all hardware is good. Goto developer options and Test your pointer location and touches. Test your repaired gps.
Sorry I didn't have better pictures. The moto x is decent camera but didn't take all the pictures I needed because I winged it with common sense and some of the pictures didn't come out well that would helped a little. If you follow all the directions, are careful and pay attention to detail that I might've not pointed out your gps and cellular reception should all have improved if you wiped the contacts clean and bent up a hair. Should've got rid of oxidation, dirt And improved contact so reception should improve a couple dB and your SNR on gps should be quite good.

Second picture didn't show... so here it is... remember this picture is for you to figure out all the contacts underneath the 3 plastic covers on the back plastic frame itself.

Did this thread go unused even though I see people still having GPS issues? GPS is still awesome on my notes after busting it open.