LG Optimus 7 Teardown [w/pictures] - Optimus 7 General

Hi Guys,
Took the liberty of doing a teardown for all of you.
For those following along at home:
Take off the back plate, remove the battery and the SIM card.
Remove all screws (4 on the bottom, 2 in the middle and 2 at the top. Be careful not to strip them!)
Using a guitar pick or case opening tool, remove the bottom plastic piece of the phone. Start at the top edges where the plastic meets the side.
Using the same tool, remove the top plastic piece of the phone. This is incredibly tricky! There are 4 plastic clips on the back and 4 on the front, it is also held in place by adhesive. It wasn't incredibly hard to get off, but insane to get back on (I broke mine trying to get it back on and glued it into place)
Using the clearance given to you by removing the top and bottom pieces, slide the case tool/guitar pick down the side and pop the phone apart. This sometimes requires quite a bit of force and a bigger guitar pick.
Remove the back plate and see this...(image 16 on attachments, I can't post links yet ) Pop off the ribbon cables indicated at the boxes using the tool. Lift the main board assembly out of the phone.
The main board is two levels and held together by thermal adhesive. Slide a guitar pick in between the two levels to carefully break them apart, taking into note that they are connected via a ribbon cable which needs to be removed once they are unglued from one another. This is the top level with the heat shields removed: (image 5 on attachments). The bottom with the heat shields removed reveals the main board. The front of this board is picture 3, the back is picture 7.
Remove the two black screws at the top and use your tool to unclick all the clips on the two sides of the shield. Ensure to remove the antenna cable before lifting it out. When removed, the shield is in picture 9.
Picture 10, screen assembly
Picture 12 is the two top and bottom caps
Picture 6 is the first plastic piece you remove once you take out the screws and the caps.
Conclusions: The Optimus uses 16 GB soldered on HYNIX NAND for storage, and not a SD slot like many of the other manufacturers opted for. I have no idea what the 3rd "dot" is on the light sensors on the front, but unless it is the smallest camera ever created, I sincerely doubt it is a front facing camera. (top left of picture 9).
Thanks for reading and I hope this helps some of you guys do repairs/make a device purchasing decision! Feel free to ask me any questions.

Amazing. And to think I spent the last five hours looking for a teardown (see the button problem thread ). Thank you so much for this. I have one question. Were you able to take off the front keys, specifically, the start key? And does everything work again after putting it together again, if you have done so already?

So the start key is separate and comes out when disassembling. The buttons appear to be part of the screen unit and come out easily. The phone went back together perfectly, the top plastic piece is impossibly hard to reattach and i broke a couple of tabs off. It basically has to bend back into place, very frustrating.

Thanks Andrew. Good one. I was able to use your image to share in one of the post the part that was changed when i had a Bluetooth problem.

Thank you, thank you, thank you. We finally know. I'm not sure why I wanted to know so badly, but I just did. I am pleased to hear that LG opted for the all NAND solution and 16GB. Bravo.
I wonder whether MS has some kind of restriction that if you had no SD slot at all it needed to have a least 16GB?

great stuff
has anyone worked out what the 3rd dot/hole is for yet?

what do you mean by 3rd dot / hole? Which image is that?

hi gurucanto
sorry i couldn't actually locate it in the pics there...probably just me being dense.
but it's on the faceplate where the other sensors are. there's proximity, light and ?
3 holes

It is in picture 9, the top left black piece is the ambient light sensors, and there is a 3rd sensor of some kind there. If it is a front facing camera, it is really, really, really small for a camera sensor.

Can you post the part number of the Hynix NAND? It would be interesting to compare the specs with an SD card.

samayo said:
Can you post the part number of the Hynix NAND? It would be interesting to compare the specs with an SD card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
would be nice to know.
sdcard performance looks pathetic.............
Windows Phone 7 Samsung Omnia 7 vs HTC 7 Trophy vs LG Optimus 7: Performance comparison

Don't have the phone anymore guys, sorry! Can't post beyond what is already here.

Has anyone figured out what the third sensor is?

Hi guys, first of all I want to post two links that refer to the schematic of LG optimus 7 e900 and e900h... maybe can be useful (you can understand what sensors do).
Because I'm under 8 posts so I can't directly post links... see the attached file
Now a question
I just broken my digitizer I bought a new one on ebay. The only thing I'm not really sure is: HOW DO I REMOVE THE TOP CAP? I watched all the pictures but I'm so scared of break it!
Thank you guys

ripp3r said:
Hi guys, first of all I want to post two links that refer to the schematic of LG optimus 7 e900 and e900h... maybe can be useful (you can understand what sensors do).
Because I'm under 8 posts so I can't directly post links... see the attached file
Now a question
I just broken my digitizer I bought a new one on ebay. The only thing I'm not really sure is: HOW DO I REMOVE THE TOP CAP? I watched all the pictures but I'm so scared of break it!
Thank you guys
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WOW! :O
Those manuals is amazingly detailed.
Oh, and if by the cap, you are referring to the black plastic that also has the power button, then it is held in place with hinges, and I think the OP also broke it while he was taking it apart, so I am not sure what the safest way would be...perhaps use an iPod opening tool? Definitely want to stay away from metal tools...

I can't post links yet (commmmmoooooon) but if you want go to ebay.it (italy) and type this: VETRO SCHERMO TOCH SCREEN VETRINO LG E900 OPTIMUS 7
So you can see what I bought... as you can see there's not the top cap, but if I'll be gentle with it... I shouldn't break it
Anyway thanks for your reply

samayo said:
Can you post the part number of the Hynix NAND? It would be interesting to compare the specs with an SD card.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
According to the pics in the service manual that ripp3r posted earlier the part number of the NAND is: H8BES0UU0MCA or H8BESOUUOMCA (zero or O )
But inside of the document when searching for Hynix I found some another part number:
H8BES0UU0MCR-4EM (NAND 4G / DDR SDRAM 4G ( Hynix)) and
H8BES0UU0MCR-4EMNAND/4GSDRAM/4G(2G*2/32bit)1.7VTO1.9V13.0x10.5
x1.2TR137P---HYNIXSEMICONDUCTORINC.
Hope I could help

The Hynix is the RAM...the NAND is Toshiba branded...

okay sorry, I was just searching for Hynix. I figured that there was something about SDRAM but that's no reason to feel offended. (if I got the '....' right)
In the replacement list it says: THGBM2G7D4FBAI916GBYTE0VTO0V12.0x16.0x1.2TR169 PMLCNANDBGA TOSHIBAELECTRONICSKOREACORPORATION
So kapanak is of course right with Toshiba because it says 16GB in the name.

LOL! Hahahaha...
The "..." is just a habit I have developed over the years, it meant nothing. My post was completely devoid of any emotional implications. Just stating a fact. And thanks for finding the part number. Now we just need someone to run that through a database and give us an idea of the specifications.

Related

HTC G1 Screen cracked (digitizer) - G1 Parts order

Hi,
I'm new to this forum so i'd like to say hello to everybody first
I have a g1 with the screen cracked. When I say the screen is cracked I mean that upper glass area; The lcd does not seem to be cracked in any way so there is no bleeding at all. Touch still works very well even in the cracked area.
I seem to have come across only 1 ebay auction that was selling a digitizer and everywere is absurdly expensive to buy. Any ideas where i can find one ? At 189$ i'm half way to buying a new phone tbh.
Also I saw in this forum that some people had the same problem and people told them that they would need to replace both lcd AND digitizer, however i clearly saw in the htc dream service manual that they are two separate parts with separate part numbers. Is there some particular reason for this ?
Just to clarify, can any tell me the order in which components are placed in the htc g1 ? Im assuming they are as follows:
Touch Screen Digitizer
LCD Screen
cover and hinge
in that order..Am I right in my assumption ?
Thanks,
Mewt
Bump. I would like to know as well.
Check it out:
This listing just got put up on eBay today. This guy has 50 digitizers for sale:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=230336383436
If you are sure the LCD is intact, you should just buy the Digitizer. The LCD can easily be seen by opening up the phone.
http://cgi.ebay.com/HTC-T-MOBILE-GO...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
I can confirm you can replace the digitizer WITHOUT replacing the lcd.
I just did it. A car ran over my G1 a while ago and I've been lurking on ebay ever since waiting for digitizers to be listed. With a new digitizer, a Torx screwdriver and about an hour I have just replaced the broken one and the new one works perfectly.
Of course that also means I now have a spare G1 since I bought another one in case I couldn't get a replacement.
I will be doing the same shortly.
Actually this is the best price I have found on a digitizer
http://www.perfectesell.com/gog1glscdico.html
Any tips on replacing the part? Does the phone have to come completely apart?
I can't buy from that buyer as he doesn't ship to Malta but thanks, now I know what I need to look for and will be doing so. Hope I can get my g1 working well again...I just hate trying to read messages with cracks in them
Thanks all for your replies
Its quite fiddly but as long as you have the manual you should be okay.
There's a few things tho. Page 23 doesn't really show you how to disconnect the camera very well. On the underside of the main board there is a connector like the one for the screen. It is released by flipping the paddle lever think 90 degrees down. Otherwise the camera connector gets pulled out when you remove the mainboard.
It should go without saying you don't need to disassemble the bottom "chin" part when you remove it. Oh and page 24 has an error, those aren't the 2 screws you need to remove, its 2 long ones, one is in the top right of that picture on page 24 the other is to the right of the one circled.
Mr_dev said:
Its quite fiddly but as long as you have the manual you should be okay.
There's a few things tho. Page 23 doesn't really show you how to disconnect the camera very well. On the underside of the main board there is a connector like the one for the screen. It is released by flipping the paddle lever think 90 degrees down. Otherwise the camera connector gets pulled out when you remove the mainboard.
It should go without saying you don't need to disassemble the bottom "chin" part when you remove it. Oh and page 24 has an error, those aren't the 2 screws you need to remove, its 2 long ones, one is in the top right of that picture on page 24 the other is to the right of the one circled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey would you say the average person would be able to change the digitizer or do you have to be a handy man.. taking anybodys replys ONLY if you''ve done it
Well I guess I am the average person but then I've taken many a pc and laptop apart and put it back together again so maybe not...
There's nothing that requires great skill in it. As long as you're gentle, patient and careful (taking apart a G1 is like making love to a beautiful woman...). Keep track of what screws came from where and don't try and force anything.
Remember you need some torx head screwdrivers. but you can get these on ebay for very little.
I have to admit I feel a bit smug when I see forum posts from people who advise you sent it back to T-Mo and pay a $100+ excess for them to do it. As if!
Ah, my screen is just gently scratched, but it's annoying sometimes. I might look at into this if it gets any worse.
Just looking at the back of the screen when the G1 is open, it looks like I'd have to take the whole phone apart...are there guides I can look at?
Here is some sites that helped me out.
This is an easy to ready explanation to what you are looking at.
http://www.phonewreck.com/wiki/index.php?title=T-Mobile_G1
This is where I found the service manual a while back
http://www.intomobile.com/2008/12/18/dissect-your-t-mobile-g1-with-the-htc-dream-service-manual.html
This was where you can find the digitizer. (I dunno which one it is... but I think its the clearpad) only thing I could not find a match on part numbers anywhere
http://www.synaptics.com/solutions/products
And this is the address and Houston local number for HTC America. (i didnt check the number so i'm 72.34763% sure its right(just do a little social engineering to get to where you need to be.) )
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&i...-95.551229&spn=0.009187,0.015986&z=16&iwloc=A
same boat here. cracked digitizer. seems like the g1 is the only phone, for which you can't buy one.
Mr_dev said:
Well I guess I am the average person but then I've taken many a pc and laptop apart and put it back together again so maybe not...
There's nothing that requires great skill in it. As long as you're gentle, patient and careful (taking apart a G1 is like making love to a beautiful woman...). Keep track of what screws came from where and don't try and force anything.
Remember you need some torx head screwdrivers. but you can get these on ebay for very little.
I have to admit I feel a bit smug when I see forum posts from people who advise you sent it back to T-Mo and pay a $100+ excess for them to do it. As if!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey i have a question i replace my digitizer but now the bottom part of the touch screen... closest to the menu button doesnt work. what do you think can be wrong
Pull it apart again using the service guide section 2.2.3 and make sure all connections have complete contact. If something is not sitting right the circuit may not be ringing out correctly. Once you have gone through all the steps 2.3.2(lcm assembly) and everything looks connected properly, assemble, reboot and test. If it is not fixed you may have a bad digitizer I'm hoping for the fact that most of your screen is working its just a connection problem.
Mr_dev said:
Its quite fiddly but as long as you have the manual you should be okay.
There's a few things tho. Page 23 doesn't really show you how to disconnect the camera very well. On the underside of the main board there is a connector like the one for the screen. It is released by flipping the paddle lever think 90 degrees down. Otherwise the camera connector gets pulled out when you remove the mainboard.
It should go without saying you don't need to disassemble the bottom "chin" part when you remove it. Oh and page 24 has an error, those aren't the 2 screws you need to remove, its 2 long ones, one is in the top right of that picture on page 24 the other is to the right of the one circled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you reassembled what did you do about the tape and gaskets? Were you able to buy new or did you use something else? Thanks!
Matt
s02mike said:
Here is some sites that helped me out.
This is an easy to ready explanation to what you are looking at.
http://www.phonewreck.com/wiki/index.php?title=T-Mobile_G1
This is where I found the service manual a while back
http://www.intomobile.com/2008/12/18/dissect-your-t-mobile-g1-with-the-htc-dream-service-manual.html
This was where you can find the digitizer. (I dunno which one it is... but I think its the clearpad) only thing I could not find a match on part numbers anywhere
http://www.synaptics.com/solutions/products
And this is the address and Houston local number for HTC America. (i didnt check the number so i'm 72.34763% sure its right(just do a little social engineering to get to where you need to be.) )
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&i...-95.551229&spn=0.009187,0.015986&z=16&iwloc=A
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm willing to try replacing it myself as well and i was wondering how much your purchased your new digitizer for. would the one suggested earlier at this link: http://www.perfectesell.com/gog1glscdico.html be good? it seems a lot cheaper than other ones and i dont want to buy a faulty and cheap one that may not work as well or break. any other tips would be GREATLY appreciated. TIA!
Here's the correct page on the Perfectesell site:
http://www.perfectesell.com/htcgog1glscd.html
Same price ($65) as the ebay auction that ended.
I dunno what that $12.95 thing was... price doesn't seem right for glass, touch sensing wizardry
mattcairns said:
When you reassembled what did you do about the tape and gaskets? Were you able to buy new or did you use something else? Thanks!
Matt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some of the gaskets i didnt fully remove so i just place em down... and some of the tape i didnt reuse.
bloob9 said:
i'm willing to try replacing it myself as well and i was wondering how much your purchased your new digitizer for. would the one suggested earlier at this link: http://www.perfectesell.com/gog1glscdico.html be good? it seems a lot cheaper than other ones and i dont want to buy a faulty and cheap one that may not work as well or break. any other tips would be GREATLY appreciated. TIA!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought my digitizer on ebay for about 25 dollars i think. then i bought the screwdrive kit for 7 dollars also
s02mike said:
Pull it apart again using the service guide section 2.2.3 and make sure all connections have complete contact. If something is not sitting right the circuit may not be ringing out correctly. Once you have gone through all the steps 2.3.2(lcm assembly) and everything looks connected properly, assemble, reboot and test. If it is not fixed you may have a bad digitizer I'm hoping for the fact that most of your screen is working its just a connection problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanx i took it apart again and that fixed it... i have 2 more problems 1 major 1 not. i dont know but i normally got 3g service in my house and now i dont what could b the problem.
second is that the screen doesnt swivel smoothy as before

How Do I Remove The Camera Hardware from Mytouch

Hey guys, I work for the DoD now and there's a strict rule that says no to brining cameras to work - which means any phone w/a camera is forbidden unless you want to be fired. It sucks having to resort to using some old phone w/o anything. I used to have the SE W580i and there were some vids on how to do it. Ever since I switched to the mytouch I haven't found anything on how to open up the mytouch. Does anyone know if this is possible? Thanks!
Doboy1788 said:
Hey guys, I work for the DoD now and there's a strict rule that says no to brining cameras to work - which means any phone w/a camera is forbidden unless you want to be fired. It sucks having to resort to using some old phone w/o anything. I used to have the SE W580i and there were some vids on how to do it. Ever since I switched to the mytouch I haven't found anything on how to open up the mytouch. Does anyone know if this is possible? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have seen some dissassembly guides on YouTube. You can try there.
I have also come across some pdf files on the net. Can't remember where I saw them though. Maybe Unlockr.com?
I would suggest getting just a cheap phone such as Metro PCS or some other alternative cheap device without the built in camera.
On an unrealted note, are you posted at? Ft Lewis? I have a buddy that was in a similiar situation for a few months there. Maybe I can get in contact with him to get more information for ya.
Maybe get a case that will cover the lens?
Sent from my HTC Magic
i removed the camera
my friend has a mytouch and i messed around inside and the camera fore closes now. so i had bricked a different one and decided to take it apart and see what the camera entailed. it is super easy. in short, remove the 3 screws holding the camera circuit board in, use a fingernail to unclip the seated black rectangular bar (bottom left of circuit board) and the circuit board will flip up giving you access to the camera clip. undo the tape and use a fingernail to unclip the camera from the board.
i am going to try and remember to make a video when i take hers out. i'll post a link here if i do.

Sim Cover Gap: Fixed!

seems DerBub and me found the solution to his sim cover problem:
it's definitely a mounting issue!
look at the photos showing the missalignment of his cover:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=8833885&postcount=3
this is the result of mounting it like picture one (wrong pressure on the outside of the cover)!
try to mount it as shown on picture two! you need to apply nearly equal pressure to the back side of the cover (where the gap was) and mount it gently!
it IS possible to mount it with OR without gap, that means even if you tried it ten times before and it wont fit, try it again with the method shown in picture 2!!!
even DerBub tried it a couple of times before the cover fitted again (fine) as in delivery condition!
we hope that this information would be usefull for others to fix their gap!
best wishes,
DerBub & tml1504
update:
good to see that this actually really helps some people!
TML1504 said:
seems kid_loco and me found the solution to his sim cover problem:
it's definitely a mounting issue!
look at the photos showing the missalignment of his cover:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=8833885&postcount=3
this is the result of mounting it like picture one (wrong pressure on the outside of the cover)!
try to mount it as shown on picture two! you need to apply nearly equal pressure to the back side of the cover (where the gap was) and mount it gently!
it IS possible to mount it with OR without gap, that means even if you tried it ten times before and it wont fit, try it again with the method shown in picture 2!!!
even kid_loco tried it a couple of times before the cover fitted again (fine) as in delivery condition!
we hope that this information would be usefull for others to fix their gap!
best wishes,
kid_loco & tml1504
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lulz and to think this made so many people panic and go beserke, good finding man thanks for the fix
That always got me when people say it doesn't fit. When you take it out of the box it is a perfect fit, so it has to be the way it is being put back on. It can't magically shrink to now have a gap. Thanks for the tip.
I'm very glad to have this "problem" fixed
As tml1504 wrote I also had this gap problem, even though I've tried to fit the sim cover several times (obviously in a wrong manner).
After fitting the cover in the manner described in pic 2, the cover fits in the way it should fit: even perfectly
regarding tml1504's posting:
pic 1: putting the pressure at the outside (left and right side of the sim cover) causes the ominous gap.
pic 2: just take your phone backwards and push the cover with a smooth equal pressure (3-4 fingers). it is useful to have the thumb at the frontside to stabilise the other 3-4 fingers
best wishes,
DerBub
TML1504 said:
seems kid_loco and me found the solution to his sim cover problem:
it's definitely a mounting issue!
look at the photos showing the missalignment of his cover:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=8833885&postcount=3
this is the result of mounting it like picture one (wrong pressure on the outside of the cover)!
try to mount it as shown on picture two! you need to apply nearly equal pressure to the back side of the cover (where the gap was) and mount it gently!
it IS possible to mount it with OR without gap, that means even if you tried it ten times before and it wont fit, try it again with the method shown in picture 2!!!
even kid_loco tried it a couple of times before the cover fitted again (fine) as in delivery condition!
we hope that this information would be usefull for others to fix their gap!
best wishes,
kid_loco & tml1504
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great info! Thanks very much!
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
We hope we were able to be of assistance to you
cheers
I love you guys for this. Just tried it, and it works wonders! Much appreciated.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
You're welcome
Hopefully this hint will help many users!
Excellent tip there, many thanks!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=819191&page=2
said here you need to apply pressure to back as well as sides as it get the little plastic mounting guides in line, they come as new fine its only when you remove it for the first time and try to get it back on it has a gap
why cant i see picture two?!
This is weird to me because I can't actually put mine on wrong. Even if I squeeze the back cover by the sides as I slide it on, the cover just will not fit at all, it just slides off...
Once the cover is in it's "guide rails" I can push it on with one finger from the very bottom of the phone and it fits right. I still wonder if some phones out there have a dodgy cover or something...
reelist said:
why cant i see picture two?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry, don't know! i've used standard encoding in photoshop and i think everybody else doesn't have a problem with my pictures...
dazultra2000 said:
I still wonder if some phones out there have a dodgy cover or something...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
perhaps this can be the case, but i think none of them is so "dodged up" that a correct mounting wouldn't be possible. just out of curiosity i tried it with mine (although i don't have any gap so far) and i had been able to mount it in a wise that a gap was the result...
so i would still recommend everybody who has the gap to retry the mounting procedure until it fits!
and for the plastics engineers out there:
with plastic tools for molding machines and a considerably high number of parts it would be more than likely that the tool has more than one cavity, which implies that there are more than one possible "version" of the cover on the market. although they should only differ in the micrometer scale, it WOULD be possible that parts from cavity 1 would fit perfect, but parts from cavity 2 have the mounting issue. i will look again on the inside of my cover and try to find some markers, then we should be ably to identify the different cavity's (if they exist)!
regards,
markus
TML1504 said:
sorry, don't know! i've used standard encoding in photoshop and i think everybody else doesn't have a problem with my pictures...
perhaps this can be the case, but i think none of them is so "dodged up" that a correct mounting wouldn't be possible. just out of curiosity i tried it with mine (although i don't have any gap so far) and i had been able to mount it in a wise that a gap was the result...
so i would still recommend everybody who has the gap to retry the mounting procedure until it fits!
and for the plastics engineers out there:
with plastic tools for molding machines and a considerably high number of parts it would be more than likely that the tool has more than one cavity, which implies that there are more than one possible "version" of the cover on the market. although they should only differ in the micrometer scale, it WOULD be possible that parts from cavity 1 would fit perfect, but parts from cavity 2 have the mounting issue. i will look again on the inside of my cover and try to find some markers, then we should be ably to identify the different cavity's (if they exist)!
regards,
markus
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are talking about there maybe being different moulds for the covers, yet you have also said that you can put it on a different way and replicate the gap problem, surely that would mean that the chances are there aren't more than 1 cover and it is just down to user error, as I have always thought. There are many people saying that it is bent, kinked, or just doesn't fit, yet if you take it off and put it on the correct way, none of this happens, strange that.
after reading this post I checked the back of my DHD and noticed I had the gap issue - then applied the pic2 method and no gap!
thanks op
LOLOL, is was this that some people were talking about?!!?
I figure at 1st that had to make a little pressure in the center of the cover so that the cover fitted right into the body...
Nice one... worked perfectly ;-)
onesolo said:
LOLOL, is was this that some people were talking about?!!?
I figure at 1st that had to make a little pressure in the center of the cover so that the cover fitted right into the body...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No this is not what those who were first to recieve the DHD (including me) are talking about. What is being shown here is just plain stupidity. Anybody with half a wit would know how to fit the cover on without a 'bump'. This is not the incorrect fit / gap issue.
Pointless thread, please close
but, I have to say, I still have gap between cover and body, about half milimeter,
and cover is creaky little bit...
:-(
Old HD2 was much hardware better than desire hd
My sim cover is getting loose, when I hold it in landscape mode with the usual 2 finger using the camera posistion i can twist my fingers slightly with barely any force making the cover gap ...anyone else?
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App

Re-House Your Xperia Play : Things to Know

This is going to be basically a review, not a tutorial, of what I experienced after I re housed my R800x in white and the steps I went through to get it done, I have no prior knowledge on the process, I simple "went for it" and had success.
~~ Please Note: Performing this can seriously damage your phone and if done wrong will possibly permanently destroy your device, please read everything and do everything slowly, Please understand you may attempt this at your own risk, you have been warned! ~~
For a good understanding on how to tear your Play apart and not break anything check this video out, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3n5ZfkqhzE
You can find the White Housing I purchased in these 2 links
The outside of the screen (digitizer) as seen in First photo
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Touch-Scree...&otn=2&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=7007674525043897251
The White Housing Top , Middle plate, Control pad plate and Back as seen in the Second and Third photos
(I have seen a cheaper one since I bought mine, but this is the one I bought)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-Housin...500747?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27bf9d978b
This link is another R800x thats branded Verizon but I doubt it having the service ribbon sticker (for lack of better words which comes into play later) because they dont show a back view of the Middle plate
http://cnn.cn/shop/sony-ericsson-xperia-play-cdma-black-housing-verizon-branded-p-12588.html
After getting your parts and watching the video you should be where I was at in Photo Four, my phone torn down and the new pieces ready to make this r800x look great.
Photos Five and Six -are close ups reviewing it all.
Photo Seven - is where I started, the touch joy stick pcb ribbon. It was kinda scary thinking if i rip this thing or pull to much that the touch pads wouldnt work anymore, and thanks to ShadowGun I was able to verify they still did. I used the blue tool for prying the phone , to help peal back the ribbon as you see it, you can give it a decent pull with your fingers as you get enough pealed up, try to pull as close to the glued end as possible so you dont risk tearing or something.
Photos Eight and Nine - I had finished moving the touch pad ribbon to the new white control pad plate and started removing the Menu, Start and Select buttons and transferring them to the white plate. Using the blue tool again sorta scrap up the backing to each of the; Menu and Start and Select buttons, it helps to push from the other side on the button a little. You need to try and not to deform the sticker/glue piece that holds the buttons in place or it might Not stick to good on the new plate, a sweat gripping moment that I first thought would just never work but patience does pay off in this step.
Photo Ten - it was all done, that piece at least.
From there I moved onto the the Middle Plate, which required a few steps if you decide you want to swap these out. One in particular that left me clueless for a few days without service, bare with me on this part..
There is a black Antenna sticker on the Bottom half of the Middle plate on your R800X, which has a gold ribbon on its opposite side that finishes a circuit, without this circuit completed your phone will Not have service and dialing *228 will not work your phone will tell you, in a mans voice "The code you have entered is in-correct please check you code and try again" - The first time I heard that I was thinking hmm thats probably not good and Verizon told me "thats not programmed in our system, you should Never get a msg like that or a mans voice" So I had them send me a replacement ( Of course I didnt mention this was all my fault and I re housed it, and thats the real reason I wouldnt go to the store to have it checked out, but that shouldnt matter right )
Upon getting the replacement phone I, for somehow the first time, Noticed the black sticker antenna on the back of the Middle plate. I grabbed my original housing and noticed the sticker antenna on it as well, so I pealed that off and revealed, to me which was previously unseen, this gold ribbon connects a circuit with two terminals on the phones mother board. The gold ribbons two ends slide into a slot on the Middle plate, underneath it to make the connection. I replaced this black sticker onto the new White Middle plate because the back of the L1 and R1 triggers are White and they are Black on the original Vz housing.
Photo Eleven-Shows the back of the New white trigger Middle plate, no black sticker antenna
Photo Twelve-The Middle plate from the Verizon replacement
Photos Antenna 2 and Antenna 3-These are the other 2 antennas also needed for service, be sure to pull those off and place them onto the new middle housing of your new phone.
For the r800i and r800a they have another antenna on the middle plate (I just dont have a photo :crying: I have an r800x) I can tell you at least that if your holding the middle housing and the Antenna 2 is on your right, the r800i/r800a other antenna will be on the left side of the housing.
Photo Thirteen- I wanted the White triggers so I super glued the black sticker antenna back on, worked out pretty good if you ask me, minus my thumb print of course. .
Photo Fourteen- I circled the inside area of the Middle plate where the you can see the opposite side of the gold ribbon that makes the connection with the mother board of the phone in the top half and you can see its not on the New Middle plate in the bottom half of the photo.
If you decide to go ahead and swap the Middle plate, you will need to remove the speakers as well and I cracked my original plate removing the left speaker, they are in there pretty tight, I basically pryed up on them in anyway that I wasn't destroying any part of them. As seen in Photo Fourteen
In Photo Fifteen I was now ready to replace the Top half of the phone and put the new Digitizer on. You wont need any extra glue here, the New White Half of the housing comes with a clear plastic film on it (sorry I had already removed before I took the photo) that was protecting some glue, thats seems to be holding up pretty good a week later and I dont think it will ever come off. Once you have replace you new Digitizer on the new Top half of the White housing, you are ready to reverse the steps seen in the Video linked at the beginning , once you have completed that you will be enjoying your newly housed in luxurious White and Silver Xperia Play as I am in the Final Photos.
I hope this helps, this was the first time I tore a phone apart physically and might have my "names of pieces" wrong but I tried to explain it in a way that makes sense and simple to look at. I do wanna make a video or something because I think anyone looking to do this would benefit more from a better "visual tutorial" but I dont have much time as id like to and this should serve good.
I hope in anyone who decides to go through with this, and enjoys having a white Xperia Play like I have
That looks awesome!!! Mind taking a couple photos of the screen and with it powered on to see how good this after market screen is? Awesome job and the white looks nice and clean.
I bought my Xperia Play in white so this doesn't apply to me. But you did a great job there ! looks brand new !
jgregoryj1 said:
That looks awesome!!! Mind taking a couple photos of the screen and with it powered on to see how good this after market screen is? Awesome job and the white looks nice and clean.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can definitelty take a few photos, I only replaced the outside of the screen, the actual lcd is the same from when I got the phone, the after market digitizer is just as clear an still allows the screen to keep its nice crisp image, Ill take a few photos later on though and update OP.
sufy1000 said:
I bought my Xperia Play in white so this doesn't apply to me. But you did a great job there ! looks brand new !
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Click to collapse
Thank you! I wish Verizon had offered it in white but figures they didn't, I makes it all that much more mine now though.. custom rom , kernel, and now housing I like it so much more.
Thats sweet nice write up. I'll probably do mine later this year or next year after the case and screen gets worn down and scratched up a bit more.
Thanks for this,
Would you reccomend cheap cases as I have seen diffrent colours (blue,orange) which I wouldn't mind trying.
Thanks
AloushA said:
Thanks for this,
Would you reccomend cheap cases as I have seen diffrent colours (blue,orange) which I wouldn't mind trying.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your welcome, Do you mean an actual case for the phone or a new housing?
Sent from my R800x using xda premium
Thank you, good sir!
I really appreciate your work here and I'll use this guide as soon as my housing arrives.
I will be doing this very same project in a few days. What is the use of the black sticker? If i break it will my Play still work? Please reply
androidtechdaily said:
I will be doing this very same project in a few days. What is the use of the black sticker? If i break it will my Play still work? Please reply
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The black sticker completes a circuit that is needed for service. Idk exactly what circuit it completes but the sticker has a gold pcb type ribbon on it that makes contact with two pins on the motherboard. Without the black sticker in place your phone will boot with no service. I didn't find out until after the fact and if you look in my photo where I glued the sticker back on you can see its a little mangled but glued it down flat and my service is just as good as it always was . Well as good as 3g can be lol .. But to answer your last question as long as you pull the sticker off slowly and don't rip it you should be fine. The gold ribbon on the bottom half just can't be torn in half or the circuit won't complete. But it peeled off without tearing for me, just take your time and you should be good to go.
Sent from my R800x using xda premium
Great job mate!
How would You describe the operation difficulty from 1/10?
Ps. I have experience with w995 full rehousing and some others mobiles.
Hi, i wish to know what is beneath this 2 black square stickers marked in red circles, and what is their function.
Thanks
Great job, will keep this in mind, white looks so good, version didn't have that option
Sent from my little GIZMO ``\[©_o],,
I have the black one Xperia Play but i bought me the White Cover by amazon for 34,99€ (Complete and Original) But i dont think that i can do this without brick my phone ((
0mega007 said:
Hi, i wish to know what is beneath this 2 black square stickers marked in red circles, and what is their function.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is there a screw begind the stikers, holdding the l and r buttons hardware?
us there only black / white available?
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using XDA
Ill reply to everyone this evening!
Sent from my R800x using xda premium
shakalek said:
Great job mate!
How would You describe the operation difficulty from 1/10?
Ps. I have experience with w995 full rehousing and some others mobiles.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont think Im best to give you a good 1/10 rating, this is the only re-house Ive done, it wasn't to bad I suppose though. I think if you have some experience with the process then you shouldn't have to much trouble
ioo7 said:
Great job, will keep this in mind, white looks so good, version didn't have that option
Sent from my little GIZMO ``\[©_o],,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, Verizon should've offered the option, but their to busy releasing phones that they dont plan to update...
evo_racer said:
I have the black one Xperia Play but i bought me the White Cover by amazon for 34,99€ (Complete and Original) But i dont think that i can do this without brick my phone ((
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you want to add me on gtalk I can help you if you decide to go through with it, I dont think you will brick it though
0mega007 said:
Is there a screw begind the stikers, holdding the l and r buttons hardware?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The sticker is covering up the actual buttons on the phones mother board that are L1 and R1 triggers. The L and R triggers are connected with metal rod, wound up with a small spring.
Nhialor said:
us there only black / white available?
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ive seen orange XPlays but I didnt see any housing's in other colors then white and black, but I only did a search for White specifically though.
216Monster said:
The sticker is covering up the actual buttons on the phones mother board that are L1 and R1 triggers. The L and R triggers are connected with metal rod, wound up with a small spring.
But if this stickers are removed, would the buttons fall off or stop working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
veeery nice man
i've changed my digitizer 2 times , on first time , i've broke my digitizer and on second time i succeed

Pixel 4 - Need Replacement Motherboard

Hi all, was replacing my cracked screen and managed to graze some of the resistors on the motherboard and its possible one was unseated.
New screen and old screen both turn on but the touch does not register. I think I need a new motherboard.
Does anyone know where to get motherboard parts? Does anyone have one for sale as i would love to put this thing back together!
A more likely culprit is that the digitizer wasn't plugged back in properly . I would suggest that you take the phone apart again and make sure all of the connections are seated properly.
I've had a phone with motherboard issues and they generally completely stop working (black screen, no boot, etc). That's why I really don't think the touch screen issue is a result of a loose component on the mother board. That being said, if you really feel like it is a loose connection on the mother board, you can try baking the board in an oven to soften the solder joints which allows them to re-adhere when they cool down. Yes, it can actually work. Take the phone apart and stick just the motherboard (don't put the case, screen, battery, etc in the oven) in an oven at 400 degrees for about 10 minutes. I've always rested the motherboard on top of two wooden spoons that were sitting on a cookie sheet. This keeps the motherboard off the hot metal surface and allows the hot air to get to all parts of the mother board. Remove the motherboard and let it cool down before installing the board.
Thanks Sic for the reply. You made me not give up hope. I will try again and bake some mobo.
But which wire is the actual digitizer. Is it the one on the far right?
The rest seem to attach to bumpers or usbc charger. Thanks again for reply.
Attached 2 photos. 1 is my mobo with red circles around what i think was damaged. I think this is the only connection to the screen digitizer in the phone.
The second is from IFIXIT mobo. it looks a bit different, possibly different revision but showing the same angle. Digitizer connection on top.
Could one of those circles connections cause the digitizer to not pick up finger contact but the screen works perfectly?
Looking at the two pictures, I could be easily convinced that there isn't suppose to my any components where you have your red circles. If you look at the IFIXIT picture, there are three components, then a break, then 6 more components and another break. You red circles seem to correspond with the breaks in the IFIXIT image, although it is clear that the motherboard isn't identical in the two images. Just my two cents.
sic0048 said:
Looking at the two pictures, I could be easily convinced that there isn't suppose to my any components where you have your red circles. If you look at the IFIXIT picture, there are three components, then a break, then 6 more components and another break. You red circles seem to correspond with the breaks in the IFIXIT image, although it is clear that the motherboard isn't identical in the two images. Just my two cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply.
Well, back to using my Pickle 3 which is still great and my Pixel 4 cupcakes are about ready. Let me check the oven.
Any update? I'm curious to know if baking the motherboard helped at all.
sic0048 said:
Any update? I'm curious to know if baking the motherboard helped at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update. Phone no longer boots after reinstalling everything.
I pre-heated to 200c ~ 400f and let it sit for 10 minutes and cool before reinstalling all the components. Was a final attempt I know.
ridethasky said:
Update. Phone no longer boots after reinstalling everything.
I pre-heated to 200c ~ 400f and let it sit for 10 minutes and cool before reinstalling all the components. Was a final attempt I know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's too bad. I'm not all that surprised it didn't help, but I am surprised it actually made the problem worse.
Perhaps one of the components was loose and baking it made the connection fail completely. As I noted before, motherboard issues generally result in a no boot situation.
Baking it was a last ditch effort to try to get it to work, but don't feel like you have to quit now. You can try baking it again - perhaps for slightly longer this time. You have nothing to loose and perhaps it will cause a bad connection to re-solidify. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Hello I am sorry that your phone is not working. I was wondering if you do find a new board if you wanted to sell me your old mother board. I want to try a project of replacing the ram chip with a 16gb chip but to do so I need a old board.
Hello, I have the same problem, my pixel 4 XL got wet (I know, it was stupid) it reaches a depth of 2 meters, I opened it to myself if I could save it and it was completely rusty. and several transistors and chips came out. So I decided to look for a motherboard to repair it. anyone know where i can get the replacement? :crying: :crying: :crying:
ridethasky said:
Does anyone have one for sale as i would love to put this thing back together!
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