JTAG may be a no go - Droid Eris Android Development

I took the plunge today and voided my warranty to see if we have the pinouts for the serial connection for the JTAG de-bricking method. I unfortunately saw no connection ports available. I have posted pics for all if they want to see the inside and get a better look than me.
http://s811.photobucket.com/albums/zz37/Gh0stRyd3r/Eris%20Inside/

morphius2036 said:
I took the plunge today and voided my warranty to see if we have the pinouts for the serial connection for the JTAG de-bricking method. I unfortunately saw no connection ports available. I have posted pics for all if they want to see the inside and get a better look than me.
http://s811.photobucket.com/albums/zz37/Gh0stRyd3r/Eris%20Inside/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Morphius pictures and your hard work are appreciated, you never know these pictures might come in handy one day with Eris modification. Thanks!

1234567ten

Thanks for the pics, morphius2036. I've been looking for teardown shots, yours are the best I've found so far.
Looks like there are three low-profile headers (near the cut-outs in the board),at least two of which appear to have been covered in Kapton tape ... and thus never used during production build/testing ... which suggests that maybe they have an engineering use... ???
Dunno, I've only used Xilinx jtag. Might be a custom pinout, but even ARM-20 pins would certainly fit in that 24-pin connector.
??
bftb0

as for the connectors all three are used, too my knowledge. the big one connects to the left side of the touchscreen and the middle is for the usb/charger connection that is under the tape and the third smaller on the right connects to the chip on the back side of the touchpanel. I may be noob talking but I just want to downgrade this crap and get a full 100% root working. So far we are only 75% rooted since we have the pioneers that were testing the 2.1 leak. As I say "Pioneer only get arrows in their A$$es.
The link now will have a lot more pics with closer detail shots for thoese that know what they are doing, also to explain the three mysterious connectors I forgot to take a pic of with them connected.

Thank you, Ill have a look over these. Did you cause any damage to your phone when opening it?

other than that one screw under the void label, wich is set to destroy once touched, I lost a screw but no damage phone works perfect.

thanks morphius

Related

Wizard Repair Guide?! Mines Broken :(

Hey Guys,
Well, I'm a bit gutted really! I dropped my XDA Mini S on the floor with the charger in and the connector IN the phone has come apart from inside the phone. The little metal bit is practically hanging out. I'm wondering, if i were to take the phone apart could i re-connect the little part? (I have a soldering iron if thats as simple as its going to be?)
Just wondering if anyone had any guides on how to take the phone apart and take a look at whats wrong?
Any help would be so much appreciated!
Many Thanks,
Tom
The service manual is hosted on the ftp site.
ftp://ftp.xda-developers.com/Wizard/Docs_Tutorials/
Hope this helps.
I suspect you probably broke the socket off, but if you have a soldering iron, you might as well try to get a new mini USB connector to work with.
You might try Pocket PC Techs:
http://www.pocketpctechs.com/main~unit~UTStarcom_XV6700-554~area~repairs~item~REP-USBCON01~name~UTStarcom+XV6700+Mini+USB+Connector+Replacement+Service.htm
I rang them up about an issue I had (screen on the fritz) and they seemed pretty knowledgeable and helpful.
Alternatively there's a company I found today in the UK. I can't vouch if they're good or not.
http://www.xdarepairs.co.uk/home.asp
Good luck.
Well I also have an issue with my wizzard... the mini jack connector (of the handsfree) is a bit loose.
What I am saying is that it does have a good connection with the rest of the circuit and sometimes the sound of the speaker goes off, then I have to insert the habdsfree and tickle it a little bit until it has a good contact.
? have some basic soldering experience,do you think I should give it a try?
Given my device has been apart too many times for me to admit to I thought I'd crack it open to take a pic for you guys. Not sure if this pic will help for those wanting to do some soldering:
Very large pic: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/216/452691530_f47801708f_o.jpg
Excuse the dust.
Ah! That picture at the bottom is exactly what I needed. The metal but at the bottom (the big sqaure) has totally sheared off....bloody thing. Thanks so much for the info on the repair guides. I may give those repair guys a call if i can't get it to work myself.
Thanks alot you guys
As for you WizeMan, it all depends on if you wish to void your warrenty or not. At the end of the day, I installed WM6 on my device so O2 would give me the finger if i tryed to claim. If I'm honest, I'm getting an upgrade next month so I'm not to bothered if I balls it up! Would be nice if I got it working though....
Lemmie know how you get on
unlock k-jam
i read all your write about how to unlock k-jam device but after all i get this message:
Lock Status: 0000000000000000
SIMLock Code: █⌠═eי∟80Γ█Σ☻< δ♠
how can i get it from this .........
lironasseo said:
i read all your write about how to unlock k-jam device but after all i get this message:
Lock Status: 0000000000000000
SIMLock Code: █⌠═eי∟80Γ█Σ☻< δ♠
how can i get it from this .........
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A little bit of a thread hijack but that means it is SIM unlocked.
Let me tell you my news, my friends.
I opened my Qtek 9100 and fixed two serious issues regarding this phone, using... sponge (the one we use to wash the dishes)
1. I put some into the stylus socket (from the thin space it has) and also
2. On the top of the mini jack socket so when i assembled the housing it blocked it from moving (2 of the contacts are no more soldered and i dint have a soldering iron at that time)
Anyway, both operation went ok and my phone is more than fully functioning. Now the stylus is hardly (in a good way) comming out (it first gets longer then comes out).
I wanted to do also the safe singal fix, but didnt find the photos to apply it correclty, so if someone has them, please give link. If you need any info about the "Sponge" Hacks, just post or pm
WizeMan said:
Let me tell you my news, my friends.
I opened my Qtek 9100 and fixed two serious issues regarding this phone, using... sponge (the one we use to wash the dishes)
1. I put some into the stylus socket (from the thin space it has) and also
2. On the top of the mini jack socket so when i assembled the housing it blocked it from moving (2 of the contacts are no more soldered and i dint have a soldering iron at that time)
Anyway, both operation went ok and my phone is more than fully functioning. Now the stylus is hardly (in a good way) comming out (it first gets longer then comes out).
I wanted to do also the safe singal fix, but didnt find the photos to apply it correclty, so if someone has them, please give link. If you need any info about the "Sponge" Hacks, just post or pm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm still trying to get the a new fascia and will probably shove an eraser bit into the stylus spring mechanism to ensure the defect never happens. Also how did you discover the break in the solder joints on the headphones jack? I have a funny situation where the left channel of the headphones doesn't work but I suspected the headphones (the plug has to be pulled at an angle to get any sound out of the left) but now I am thinking it may be the socket itself.
By the way the reception fix pic doesn't load for me either but I unless you truly need it, don't waste your time doing it; I always have all 4 bars and sometimes have 2 bars.
AsGF2MX said:
I'm still trying to get the a new fascia and will probably shove an eraser bit into the stylus spring mechanism to ensure the defect never happens. Also how did you discover the break in the solder joints on the headphones jack? I have a funny situation where the left channel of the headphones doesn't work but I suspected the headphones (the plug has to be pulled at an angle to get any sound out of the left) but now I am thinking it may be the socket itself.
By the way the reception fix pic doesn't load for me either but I unless you truly need it, don't waste your time doing it; I always have all 4 bars and sometimes have 2 bars.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Allright here is the deal.
1. I found out the break in the soldier joints when i opened it. I was really suspicious about it because when i inserted my headphone jack into the connector, i had problem with the contact; the connector was loose and it muted my phones speaker. When i disassembled the phone using the service manual i saw with my eyes that the the joins where f-ed up.
2. I dont really need the signal hack i just wanted to experiment, i have 2.25.11 cingular radio rom and its great.
Btw i suppose you should better use the sponge, because the rubber may wear off but not the sponge...
Thanks for the tip on the sponge. I am going to grab a used but allegedly "like new" body from eBay and also get one of those covers as well.

USB connector replacement

Hi there
I have broken recently the USB connector at the bottom of the device. Managed to replace it with a good one but one of the pads is broken of the board. Has anyone got a schematics of it or know where the USB connection point are? It does charge but is not recognised by ActiveSync
THanks
Here you have the Charmer Service Manual:
http://mikechannon.net/PDF Manuals/HTC Charmer_Service_Manual.pdf
thanks for that. However, there is no schematics in this manual. I have already replaced the connector but one of the pins has come of the board. Need a point on board to connect it to. It is the second pin from left looking at the connector facing you.
Thanks
Got to ask,did you get the same USB connector? as i looked and could not find the same one,in the end i replaced it with a smaller one,as for your problem,I have taken mine apart and had a good look round,on the underside there is what looks like a point you could try,it's right where the second pin is,how you would solder there is a tuff one but thats the only thing i can see.
Thanks to your reply. I have notice it and did solder but did not do anything. Can you possibly buzz the connector to the point around and just check which one of them to connect to. I have tried with MDA I but it is complitly different board.
Thanks
I will have a try for you over the next few days,kinda busy with a move going on,just to make sure i'm looking at the right pin,it's the second one along as you look from above going left to right?
failing to load the zipped pic. Only up to 2 MB - should be 8 mb max
As you are looking at the pins connected to the board it is the second one from left. For other people's use if you get all 3 ot them on pic should somebody else need it. If you cannot get the pic I will try to upload the pic tomorrow.
Thanks for your effort
the pic of broken pad
As promissed here is the pic. It's the second pad from left
Thanks
Lonegunman, are you still with us?
Still here, have done a few tests to see if i can pin point a place for you but not had much luck, problem being my one is working, what i will do at some point is remove pin 2 from mine and see if i can find a point, just for your info the pin you are missing is the data -, so as you say it will charge but not sync.
thanks..... Dont think you need to remove it. If you got the multimeter you can measure resistance from that pin to anything around it. when resistance is zero it is defo a point I can connect it to.
Thanks for your effort once again
anyone willing to help please
please...someone has an open charmer. All I need is someone to buzz the second pin to a place on the board
Sorry been busy on loads of other thing (repairing a plasma TV is no fun i can tell you)anyway if your uk based PM me you address i should have a spare one i can post over to you for you to try and work out what you need.
pm sent. thanks
Special thanks to lonegunman who kindly sent me his MDA and help to repair it. The data pin connects to SM resistor just above it.
Thanks lonegunman again

Tips for buying a used universal

Hello! could people please share tips and things to remember when buying a used universal? I mean what are the things that you should do to check or find tell tale signs of defect, hardware, the firmware the os, I have already done a search in the forums and already know some, but there might be things that I have missed, so help would be very nice, I will be meeting the seller so I get to inspect the device up close so it would be nice to armed with the info how to inspect the device from how to check the bootload etc.
Thanks for the help and I hope that this helps others too
The Universal can be bought cheap at german eBay. Look for MDA PRO. You should be able to purchase one for around or less than 100 Euro.
Preferably look for the following signs:
1) Unmodded. Many users got the Universal within a contract from the operator, but did not use it much, because it is too big for them. Such Universals are normally in good condition. When advertised that it ships with an OS different than WM5, you know that the owner has been flashing it. I personally don't like that, because that means it belonged to a power user and must be more worn out.
2) Warranty stickers. Make sure the hinges have the warranty stickers inside. If they are missing, the device has been opened. You don't want to purchase one that has been opened.
3) Screen. Screen should be without scratches and should have had always a screen protector.
4) Speaker. The external speaker which is used for calls can break, as it is fitted with some kind of pogo pins. Make sure it is working.
If you get to test the device first, do as this:
- do a call (bring your SIM card)
- check WLAN and Bluetooth (bring a headphone and try it somewhere with WLAN activity)
- bring a SD card and see if it is read
- check for bad pixels
- play a song
- take a picture
- try the keyboard and touch screen
- try all the buttons
If everything works, that is the best you can check it for.
Of course it could break the next day, but it shouldn't.
Cheers,
vma
Great guide vma!
I´ll just add:
Take special care on the swivel piece (The one that gives Uni it´s great and unbeatable form factor: PDA - Micro Lap top)
take care of another thing when i bouted my universal after i used it for about 1 week the phone was hangs soo much the reason was in the memory crd .....so you must try a memory crd and play a small video on it about 10 minutes
The most important thing everyone forgot to mention is USB port. When looking for a device, see if the port moves in any way or wiggles in its opening. See if the device synchronises with AS, charges etc.
The fact the device had been flashed or opened wouldn't play a huge part for me if everything else works well and the body is in sound condition, e.g. the hinge is not loose, the screen rotates and closes properly, all keys are present and work, keyboard backlight works with and without sensor etc.
Speakers don't just break, as post No2 claims (POGO PINS??), but it is good to check that phone is capable of making/receiving calls, you can hear the other party and the other party can hear you, can play music and earphone plug is in working condition/attached properly
Not reading SD or SIM card is a biggie, dim screen, lost touch sensitivity, scratched or damaged digitizer, worn out buttons - all obvious signs. You can open the back, remove the battery and SIM card and check for a small white blotting paper sticker covering the small mainboard pins under the SIM card, any change in color towards pink - do not buy.
@enigma1nz:
Shame on me, I did indeed forget the USB port!!! You should of course check both: charging and Active Sync connection. A broken USB connector is a mayor issue and hard to solder without proper equipment.
Regarding the speaker: I am speaking out of experience, as one faild on me. The speaker is like a small button and it has two contact plates. They are not pogo pins, but act like them. The speaker will be pressed by the case against two contact points on the PCB. What happens is that apparently some car-holders do too much pressure on the sides of the Universal casing, causing the speaker contacts to bend back and forth everytime the phone is placed or removed from the holder. After a few months the contact gets worse and worse until one of both plates brake off. Because they are so tiny, it is impossible to repair the speaker - believe me, I have tried. I ended up buying a new speaker cell at eBay.
Cheers,
vma
vma said:
@enigma1nz:
Shame on me, I did indeed forget the USB port!!! You should of course check both: charging and Active Sync connection. A broken USB connector is a mayor issue and hard to solder without proper equipment.
Regarding the speaker: I am speaking out of experience, as one faild on me. The speaker is like a small button and it has two contact plates. They are not pogo pins, but act like them. The speaker will be pressed by the case against two contact points on the PCB. What happens is that apparently some car-holders do too much pressure on the sides of the Universal casing, causing the speaker contacts to bend back and forth everytime the phone is placed or removed from the holder. After a few months the contact gets worse and worse until one of both plates brake off. Because they are so tiny, it is impossible to repair the speaker - believe me, I have tried. I ended up buying a new speaker cell at eBay.
Cheers,
vma
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And believe me, I repair devices for a living. Thanks for the run-through, although I could give you the same. It happened to you, doesn't mean it happens often or it is a fault in design. I could give you a list of design faults in quite a few models of expensive cellphones on the market today, the mentioned speakers are not one of them.
I appreciate, the help people! any more inputs? I am happy that all the previous posts were, about how to inspect the device upfront and some other useful tips what to check other inputs will be highly appreciated
Battery can be also considered. Some are sold with good batery some with dead battery. It is not so expensive, but costs something. In general if battery shows less than 50% and devidce still works (even under load) that is a good sign.
Also as for the touch screen - the best test is to open note taker and try to paint something. The painted line must exactly follow the stylus movement if it jumps somewhere, then the touch sensitive layer is bad. I bouht such UNI on eBay (was described as perfect working order), had to replace the digitizer myself.
I do prefer buying not working UNI's on Ebay with good display. Once I bought not booting one - mtty job fixed that. Other time I bouht one where the display was still off - the flex cable popped out from connector. Etc....
Thanks for all the advice people! now, please welcome me to the HTC universal family, (well actually, I have a Dopod 900 but what the heck all are the same right?) your inputs had been essential, for me to get my new baby without any hitches I hope that nothing manifests after the one week assurance the seller gave me
Special thanks to enigma1nz for all the patience and help provided to me I asked her a lot of questions in the pm's but she answered in full detail
Now I have my own device so I will be flashing away, I hope without any problems. Again my thanks to the community hopefully there are more inputs for others who are thinking of buying their 2nd hand universal via meet ups
Excellent news! Congratulations!!! And welcome to the Uni family, of course. As you can see, we are one friendly bunch, all help and support will always be available. Have fun
Damn, I was hoping to do a very good Marlon Brando Godfather impersonation with 'Welcome to the family'
LOL
You started in the right direction!
to midnightsights : welcome
orb3000 said:
LOL
You started in the right direction!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, sweetie, the right direction would be an Orb3000 impersonation and 'Welcome to the forums', but I was worried, being Orb2000, hehe, that I simply won't be able to compete with a more updated version
enigma1nz said:
No, sweetie, the right direction would be an Orb3000 impersonation and 'Welcome to the forums', but I was worried, being Orb2000, hehe, that I simply won't be able to compete with a more updated version
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL.........
enigma1nz said:
No, sweetie, the right direction would be an Orb3000 impersonation and 'Welcome to the forums', but I was worried, being Orb2000, hehe, that I simply won't be able to compete with a more updated version
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks dear, you´re nice
you´ll be Orb4000!!!
Cheers and have a nice weekend,

How to disassemble the HTC HD2?

I need a guide how to take off the screen from the backcover. There are 4 screws, but when you remove them, the screen doesn't move, also when using a vacuum pump.
Is there a special trick to get the display removed?
I know, a guy @ www.xda-china.com has managed to disassemble the HD2, but as i don't understand chinese i can't register there and ask him.
Benz-Driver said:
I know, a guy @ www.xda-china.com has managed to disassemble the HD2, but as i don't understand chinese i can't register there and ask him.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea about your question, but did you ever try the google translation tools on this web site? It should be possible to translate it to English at least. Mabye that brings you forward ...
Request!
When taking your HD2 apart, could you PLEASE do the following:
Take high resolution pictures of the chips inside (pref. ALL chips)
A lot of us here really want to know what the memory chips say and what the broadcom chip says!
This would help a lot in the possible (if possible) development of a FM transmitter driver/app for the HD2 and it would once and for all answer the question if we have 448MB or 576MB of RAM and 512MB or 1GB of ROM.
Thanks a lot!
AGREE!
Yeah, i totally agree with ralphfx.
In this thread, i also requested some high quality pictures of the chips located inside the HD2 - the Boradcom chip especially.
This would be highly appreciated.
yeah,we are all interested about ram rom and comm chipset....we really appreciate if you take photos about this argument....
1. have a nice insurance
2. use excessive force
3. take pictures
4. call the insurance company, tell them someone bumped in to you on the bus and the phone fell and people walked on it
5. Win Win situation, we get pics, you get new phone
may I ask why you want to open it?
br3nt said:
may I ask why you want to open it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
because the right upper corner of the display is lower than the other three corners and i would like to fix this. But i won't do that unless i have a really good guide, in order not to destroy the HD2.
i can recognize the same thing on my phone (at least it seems to be so). but:
(1) it is maybe 0.1mm difference at the top right corner _at most_ (just feelable when you move your fingers over the corners slightly and compare)
(2) there is no difference in the other corners, especially not in the lower left one. which makes me assume that it is not the screen that is tilt, but the frame that is bend. (did you check that with a master tool? maybe difficult due to the keys at the bottom...)
anyway, the difference is (at least over here) so small i didnt even realize it until i read your thread and took a _very_ close look at mine. of course, how bad it really is is highly subjective and as we all want pictures from the chips inside as well: plz go ahead! (and someone give him that howto finally!)
I had to remove the camera from my HD and here is how I have done it:
(This information is provided as is without warranty to accuracy. I take no responsibility for your action. Removing the back cover will void the warranty!)
Image 1:
Remove the 4 Screws. As you see on the Image, two of the screws have a stickers on them. I tried but I couldn't remove them in one piece. From this point on, you no longer have warranty on your phone!)
Image 2:
To remove the back, you need a plastic tool like the one on the Image.
Do not use metal or other hard tools. (They will damage the very soft and fragile frame and your phone will look ugly.)
Image 3 - Top:
These are the hooks that keep the top in place. You have to insert the plastic tool between the display and the frame and very carefully disengage the hooks on both sides.
Image 3 - Bottom:
The bottom side of the cover. On this side there are no hooks only a long retaining edge. At the reassembly this edge clips in first and then the top hooks snap in.
That's all. I haven't disassembled the phone any further as I only needed to get to the camera.
For all of you, who are not allowed to carry a phone with camera at work: this is your device! As there is no second forward facing camera, only the main camera must be removed. It is held by a cage (see last image). This can be carefully pried up and turned to the side. Then the camera can be removed and the cage closed again. Be very careful! The release for the cage is above some capacitors and you have not much space to work. Use a sharp and tiny screwdriver.
The camera driver is intelligent enough not to cause any side effects. When the camera software is started, nothing happens. No error message, no freezing, nothing.
I closed the camera hole with a piece of black plastic (from the back of a CD cover) and so it still looks fine.
The HD2 is the best business phone and it is a real joy to use in a daily basis...
Cheers,
Thinman
you've solved your problem?
Thinman24, please repeat procedure and open up on top right corner so we can check to see if the BCM4329 chip is present for FM transmitter function. See here for more info :
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=622377&page=26
Great job!
where is the external speaker?
thinman24 said:
For all of you, who are not allowed to carry a phone with camera at work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why would you not be allowed to carry a phone with a camera at work?
Spike15 said:
Why would you not be allowed to carry a phone with a camera at work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Security...
Thinman24, please repeat procedure and open up on top right corner so we can check to see if the BCM4329 chip is present for FM transmitter function. See here for more info :
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sorry, I can't do that. I took the images in December right after my phone arrived and as you know: never change a runnig system...
The Frame around the Display is VERY soft and disassembling the phone repeatedly will certainly introduce some dents and bumps.
I had two minor ones (due to the fact, that there were no guides and I was looking for the hooks on the side) but I could smooth them out, so hey are barely visible.
I will check my images at home in the evening. Maybe I have one where the chip is visible but don't hold your breath as it wasn't my main concern back then.
Why would you not be allowed to carry a phone with a camera at work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm working in a Design Center of a car company... camera == loss of job, immediately. They take this very seriously here.
where is the external speaker?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's to the right of the Camera Opening on Image 3. It's attached to the back cover and is connected by springloaded contacts (can be seen on the last image).
There are no wires between the back cover and the Display/MainModule. Everything is connected by touch contacts. Makes the removal very simple.
Cheers,
Thinman
...so we can check to see if the BCM4329 chip is present for FM transmitter function.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I checked my photos, but the chips are covered so the images are not much use...
Cheers,
Thinman
It's alright - thanks for your time though ^^
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=624331 <--- internal pictures of the HD2
thinman24 said:
I'm working in a Design Center of a car company... camera == loss of job, immediately. They take this very seriously here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you not allowed to bring your eyes to work either?
Lol...
Spike15 said:
Are you not allowed to bring your eyes to work either?
Lol...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
actually you made me lol
pretty common sense/logic that he is not allowed to use the camera inside the building in his line of work
another example is when I went to the VW/Audi factory in germany with my class a couple of years ago we had to turn in our phones at the entrance due to security reasons... also in places where there's government secrets/building - if you get caught in action you can get jail (something like that, was a while ago....)
Really extensive disassemble photo-guide in russian.
http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc_hd2/

[Q] Epic Disassembly - How can I open it up?

I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
IBNobody said:
I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
scriz said:
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
IBNobody said:
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lmao @ ====> or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?[/QUOTE]
hilarious!
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
los1223 said:
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
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Searched disassembly, not teardown. Thanks.
The link actually helped.
The Epic has 2 microphones?
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
Kcarpenter said:
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
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I've found a teardown picture that illustrates the difficulty...
https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/eas/GetApplicationAttachment.html?id=1311529
The problem was the two tabs. I didn't realize how long they were.
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
arashed31 said:
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
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Once I saw how the back cover was snapped on (wide indents that snap to the silver), I was able to remove it. I used a credit card, sliding it down from the volume button, parallel to the phone. Every so often, I'd use the card as a wedge to pry the top off. Eventually, it snapped open.
Unfortunately, I am unable to find a problem. The main microphone works. It just doesn't work in speakerphone mode.
Oh well... I'm on my 4th Epic. I'm holding off on returning them to Amazon. I'll have 3 of 'em sitting around in case I need to make a FrankenEpic.
Do you see any way to tighten the screen slider?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
Hey, if/while you're still in there... do you see a MLF-type chip (these are the ones that look like a plastic box with no visible pins because the metal pads are entirely on the underside) that's approximately 3mm x 4mm that has something like "FSA 9480" (or just "9480", or even "Fairchild") written on it? Probably near the USB port? I've read about its existence inside the Epic (and all Galaxy S models), and it seems to be getting enumerated by the kernel during bootup, but I didn't see any actual chip bearing the name in any teardown pics I've looked at. I'm starting to suspect that the "9480" *might* just be IP that Samsung licensed from Fairchild and incorporated into one of their own ASICs (with "9480" being the "IP name" of the chip Fairchild sells as the 9280), but it's really hard to tell.
For anyone who didn't see my other post, or the thread in the I9000 board, the FSA9480 is a USB switch that enables the USB port's two data pins to be repurposed for a) serial UART Txd and Rxd, b) Stereo audio left and right out, c) mono headset with audio out and mic in, and d) JTAG via a special interface called "JIG" that's kind of like Atmel's Debugwire and serializes the various pins of a JTAG interface. It's not actually using USB... it electronically disconnects the two pins from the USB interface, and connects them to the audio/uart/JIG pins elsewhere inside the phone.
Also, if you can see anything that resembles a manufacturer or part number for the USB port, that would be awesome. I know that someone, somewhere HAS to make them, but trying to find nonstandard, offbeat connectors in the millions of items sold by companies like Digikey, Arrow, Avnet, Mouser, etc. is like looking for a needle in a haystack unless you already know the exact part number you're looking for.
didnt really llook too hard, but i didnt see any
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
Yes its rather easy you take off the back cover use something like a guitar pick to pop the back snaps apart then from there undo the connections to the main board remove it a few more screws under the sticker and one under the main board i think there is a ribbon cable you have to be genital with they rip really easy also make sure its put back the way it needs to be.. when replacing the screen there are tear down guides all over the new that show it in detail...
Edit: Found a Video for you... http://satmedia.co.uk/sprint-samsung-epic-4g-galaxy-s-sph-d700-take-apart-tear-down-video-mpg/
Chabsin said:
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
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Pry bar and hammer should do it!
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