Database Users

How I Fixed My Speaker Problem (Walkthrough with photos)

Disclaimer: This procedure voids the warranty and you can potentially damage your device.
This guide is for informative purposes only. Perform this procedure at your own risk.
This procedure was performed on an MDA2 (aka XDA2, Qtek2020, I-Mate2, etc).
Original Problem: The speaker stopped working.
Note: There seems to be a similar problem but it requires a totally different approach to fix it and it's out of the scope of this procedure. The problem on my device was somewhat different since when the speaker didn't work, the microphone was still functional. So the problem resides on the speaker connector, not the headphone jack.
Note2: English is not my first language, so please excuse any language errors you may encounter.
Let me start by saying that I have a big passion for gadgets and technology, so I was not going to let go on the opportunity to learn and inspect the guts of my brand new MDA2. You may ask yourself, why in the world don't you send it for repairs if it's a brand new device? Well, the answer is very simple, I bought this device over the Internet and I simply lost hope of being helped by the guys at the place I bought it from, they simply never answered or returned my calls and emails. I grew desperate and tired of using the headphones ALL THE TIME, even for alarms and reminders! and as I said before, I was driven by passion and thirst of knowledge and curiosity so I decided to fix it myself (even with the risk of damaging the device in the process). Let me add that I have some basic knowledge in electronics, and by no means this is my first device I fix. I have some experience. (I have fixed some damaged digitizers on a HP Jornada 568 PocketPC and Compaq iPAQ 3630 Pocket PC, fixed a volume slider on a SE T68i Phone and a SE P800 Smartphone to name a few).
Let me tell you that the MDA2 has been by far the easiest to fix. It's very well designed in terms of components and component placement, and the quality of the materials (plastics and electronics) is exceptional. But this is not a hardware review, so I'll start the walkthrough right now...
This is my victim... i mean... MDA2...
These are the tools required to complete the operation:
Torx #6 tool
Very small Phillips screwdriver (+)
Very small flat screwdriver (-)
Credit Card or similar card
A steady hand
Then I removed the SD Card and Stylus.
Proceed to remove the screws, there are two TORX#6 and four small Phillips (+). Be sure to put them on a safe place, they are very small screws and you don't want to loose them.
There are a couple of hidden Torx#6 screws under that black antenna cover, so we need to remove it. The plastic used in this part is not as dense as the rest of the casing (yes, the casing it's made of plastic!), so we need to be very careful not to break it, so apply very little force.
Start by using the flat screwdriver and insert it in the Stylus silo and use it as a lever (as shown), you will hear a "click" when the lock snaps. You will need flexible hands and dexterity since at this point you will also need to insert the flat screwdriver on the side square hole to release this side of the cover. (see next picture).
Here you can see the two squared-shaped holes where you need to insert the flat screwdriver to release the locks. Be very careful since there are some electronic components just below the square holes and do not apply excessive force to release the locks. Remember, the plastic is very thin on this part.
Now the other side, here you need to also use the flat screwdriver as a lever to release the lock on this side. Be very careful, since you will apply some force on the volume slider.
Now with the bottom part of the black cover released, you will notice there are some more locks to release on the top (just on the edge of the SD slot. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE COVER YET!
One more time we need the flat screwdriver as a lever. Insert the flat screwdriver (as shown) but not too deep. Apply very small force in the direction of the arrow and the edge will snap off releasing the cover.
The black cover is now free.
These are the two hidden Torx#6 screws. Proceed to remove them to release the antenna.
The antenna has been removed.
So far so good, now the toughest part of the whole procedure, opening the MDA2 case. You need to be very patient, do not rush since the finish on the case is very easy to scratch and dent. Proceed with the small flat screwdriver and you need to start from the bottom of the MDA2, In my case as soon as I removed all the screws I noticed a small gap on the bottom so I started from that point, but if you don't see the gap, you can start from the headphone jack hole. Please be gentle and don't try to rush.
At this point you can use a credit card to help release the locks that are located all around the case, this way you won't scratch or dent the case. Start counter-clockwise, that is to the left of the headphone jack towards the Stylus silo. Once you manage to release all the locks on that side of the case, just lift it very slowly and the opposite side will snap off very easily. However, be very careful on that side (where the buttons and volume slider is) since in that particular place the plastic is more fragile because of the holes needed for those controls.
Once the MDA2 has been opened in half you can see the three small black Phillips screws (+) (see picture). Proceed to remove them. Please avoid any contact with the electronic components, since at this point any static charge can damage your precious gadget. And also make sure you don't drop the screws or touch the components with the screwdriver, since the MDA2 it's still very alive. See that coin-shaped thing on the opposite side of the screws? That's a LiPo Battery, and it's keeping your data from being erased. By the way, don't try to beat the 20 minute retention time of the battery, you have made a backup right? So go slowly...
Ok. So far so good... This is the speaker, well, actually that's the speaker encased in a small black boxy thing with two gold plated connectors. (see next Pic for a close up).
As you can see, the two gold plated connectors on the speaker container match the two spring connectors on the mother board.
Ok, here we need to be very, very careful. I pulled both springs as shown on the picture above to give them a little more pressure when assembled again and I also cleaned the gold plated connectors on the speaker container. Make sure you apply only the necessary force to pull the springs since they could be disoldered if too much force is applied. Use common sense.
We're almost done!
Now proceed to put everything back together. Remember to put back all the screws in their correct positions and do not apply excessive force or you will damage the thread and make things worse that they where in the first place. Proceed to close the casing by doing the opposite. Start by placing the case on the buttons and volume slider side first then the opposite side.
You may notice that the camera lens will not allow the case to go all the way, but if you do it slowly it will budge.
Proceed with the rest of the assembly in reverse order.
That's it... You can proceed to test the speaker.
My MDA2 has been working flawlessly ever since!!! :wink:
I hope this procedure was helpful.
Best regards,
Rayan

All red crosses instead of pictures...

And then the pictures came
Nice walkthrough you've made !

thanks for the very good explanation!
Illustrated by pictures is always great!
Thanks

Thanks, this is my way of saying "Thank you" to this marvelous community! 8)
P.S.- If you don't see the images, please try again later, since those images are hosted on my webserver and sometimes I need to reboot it... sorry...
Best regards,
Rayan

Just a little bump since I've noticed that many people want to open their beloved devices and I thought my walkthrough might help...
MODS: Any chance to make it a "Post it?" :wink:
Best regards,
Rayan

Excellent post, cheers, and if English is your second langauge then I'd never have known it! There are plenty of people for whom it is their first langauge who can't write as well as you!

Wow. Your documentation is better than what comes with the XDA itself! And your English is better than most people in the US. Great service to the XDA community.

Excellent work, man!

Thanks guys!
I'm glad you liked it!
If anyone has questions about the procedure, please don't hessitate to ask!
Best regards,
Rayan

Great! Somethings in life are free, for opening your XDA II there's Mastercard!!!
hahahahaha

pictures are gone? or is it just me?
did anyone kept a copy?

Sooooo sorry guys... I switched to a new hosting company and recreated my website but forgot to restore those images... I will take them back online ASAP!

waiting for the pics to comeonline again!
please do it asap!
thanks

any luck putting the pictures back online ?

Hello folks!
Sorry for the loooong delay, but as you can see, the pics are back!!!
If you have any questions about the procedure, don't hesitate to ask.
Best regards,
Rayan

Can someone help me?
I had the same problem myself, except that i've done all the stuff you said and i still have the problem... I can hear the phone ringing, but no sound comes from the device (Alarms, appontments, Media Player, etc). When i answer the calls i can't hear any sound from the people who is calling me... Can someone help me?
:shock:

Gents,
Slightly off topic, so please bear with me.
My M1000 has had a problem ever since I got it. The camera seems out of focus as soon as I try to make pictures past say 1,5 meters. Would the serrated ring around the camera lens perhaps be used to focus the device?
Thanks!
Stefan out

I tried to move the serrated lens just to play with it and see if I could get better focus and remember that it was really hard as if it was glued or something.
However, I didn't apply much force but seems like it's meant to be some sort of focus adjustmet, specially because it looks very close to the lens in my webcam when disasembled.
Should you give it a try, let us know...

is there a way to power an ipaq 3630 without the power adapter but with a different battery? like a cel battery? how is the power conector to the ipaq and battery?

Camera: macro function working?

Hello, does the macro function (the switch near the lens) really work? I tried several pictures and can't see any difference between normal and macro.
I notice that I can't put the switch fully to the top (to normal mode) but easily full to the bottom (to macro). Maybe it's dispositioned and therefor it doesn't reach the macro function internally?

Works extremely well for me. You are trying to use it in a macro fashion right, ie trying to focus on something say < 15cms away?
V

vijay555 said:
Works extremely well for me. You are trying to use it in a macro fashion right, ie trying to focus on something say < 15cms away?
V
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes I am. I'm afraid by device has to go back to repair (just got it back today from another repair which lasted a month...)

Camera Macro
pietrucci said:
yes I am. I'm afraid by device has to go back to repair (just got it back today from another repair which lasted a month...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is sheer carelessness from your last repair. There is nothing broken on the camera zoom just that the back has been placed on and the catch on the casing has missed the toggle arm on camera. A simple 20 sec job which you could easily do yourself if it weren't for that VOID sticker. Give your last repairer a good talking to.
Mike

mikechannon said:
This is sheer carelessness from your last repair. There is nothing broken on the camera zoom just that the back has been placed on and the catch on the casing has missed the toggle arm on camera. A simple 20 sec job which you could easily do yourself if it weren't for that VOID sticker. Give your last repairer a good talking to.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you mean the little sticker on top of the screw next to the camera on the right, this is already broken, by the HTC repairer I assume...
When I unscrew the back (4 screws) then I will be able to repair it myself you think? (first find the appropriate screwdriver).

Easy Repair
pietrucci said:
If you mean the little sticker on top of the screw next to the camera on the right, this is already broken, by the HTC repairer I assume...
When I unscrew the back (4 screws) then I will be able to repair it myself you think? (first find the appropriate screwdriver).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it's an easy fix as there is nothing broken inside. Get set of phone screwdrivers from maplin or such like. Open phone bottom end first needs just a little bit of easing out as there are pop in connections all around. Tilt bottom edge up and with a bit of judicious wiggling it will pop off!. The problem will be immediately obvious. There is a small "arm" on the camera that fits into the movable macro switch on the case.
Easiest wat I've found to get them to match up is move both lever and and switch toward top of device and place back on by moving it straight down onto phone (not at an angle). Before putting screws in check switch moves fully and in good light you'll actually see lens and black ring moving in an out. Once full screwed up (forgive expression) you may need to press a little on top edge to get case to return fully into position.
Mike

mikechannon said:
Yes it's an easy fix as there is nothing broken inside. Get set of phone screwdrivers from maplin or such like. Open phone bottom end first needs just a little bit of easing out as there are pop in connections all around. Tilt bottom edge up and with a bit of judicious wiggling it will pop off!. The problem will be immediately obvious. There is a small "arm" on the camera that fits into the movable macro switch on the case.
Easiest wat I've found to get them to match up is move both lever and and switch toward top of device and place back on by moving it straight down onto phone (not at an angle). Before putting screws in check switch moves fully and in good light you'll actually see lens and black ring moving in an out. Once full screwed up (forgive expression) you may need to press a little on top edge to get case to return fully into position.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Many thanx, it works again!!!
As you said I lifted the bottom, played with the switch and it fell into place!
First I tried to remove the whole cover, but at the cameraside it didn't get off that easy and I was affraid to damage something. But then I solved it without lifted the whole cover. SO I'M VERY HAPPY NOW!!!
(by the way, is there a trick to get the whole cover off? Not that I want to do that at the moment...)
Pietrucci

Congratulations
pietrucci said:
Many thanx, it works again!!!
As you said I lifted the bottom, played with the switch and it fell into place!
First I tried to remove the whole cover, but at the cameraside it didn't get off that easy and I was affraid to damage something. But then I solved it without lifted the whole cover. SO I'M VERY HAPPY NOW!!!
(by the way, is there a trick to get the whole cover off? Not that I want to do that at the moment...)
Piettrucci
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Knew you could do it, congratulations. The back is fiddly, it helps if you have the tool that looks like a flat blade screwdriver with a slightly bend tip - meant for providing a little leverage to pull the case out enough to release the click in clips. A blunt knife could also be used if you want to go down market. Steer clear of a sledgehammer though!
Mike

Keyboard is getting too loose!

Hi,
just another question by a lam3 user
After some day using my tytn, i noticed that the keyboard is very loose, just after locking it under the lcd.
to explain better: video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pj56htWOHEk
as you see, the keyboard is very loose just after locking it.
My device id is 640, so it is affected by some keyboard sliding problems(is a v1605)...but my question is: There is something i can do to fix this?
i tried to tighten the screws i signed here
but without significative improvement.
this is a minor issue,i think, but if i can fix it my tytn will go better in my huge hands
however, no problem if the fixing procedure involves to remove the warranty sticker up the screw, the tytn is on italy and i do not think that vodafone uk will change it
many many thanks
gtazok

The screws you've tightened are just for the housing. To make the keyboard tighter, you need to take the device apart
These 2 links explain everything you need:
http://michael-channon.spaces.live....BlogPart&_c02_owner=1&partqs=cat=Hermes+Fixes
http://www.howardforums.com/showpost.php?p=9119842&postcount=1
Good luck!

underneath your main board is 4 screws tighten those and you should be set. If not you may need to by a new housing. I hope the tighten helps though.

omg, this will really need to open all the device!
damn, there is no other way?

I couldn't really tell from your video if it is the standard loose keyboard problem you've got, but my keyboard was loose in the way that when closed it could 'fall' open pretty easily.
I used the guides above, and while it does invalidate your warranty (unless you're able to remove the warranty sticker without breaking it), it is very easy to do and put back together.

my problem is, as shown on video:
when i try to press the power button, i apply some force to my forefinger to tighten the grabbing around the phone.
when i apply this force, the upper part of the phone(the part where is the buttons of mail and iexplore) slide off the housing, and go for about 2 mm (as shown in the video).
i will like to tightnen this, to do that the phone will never slide the keyb without apply *Decent* pressure.
the keyboard,however, stay solid when fully opened, and *decent* pressure is needed to restore it from the full opening to housing closed.
was i *almost* clear? i'm very sorry but i understand that my english is a mess and really confusing, but if someone could guide me, i can do photo, pictures and so on.
thanks
gtazok

Yep, that sounds exactly the same as my problem!
The 2 links above should help, as long as you're happy to take the phone apart. If you are willing, it is pretty easy to do, but will invalidate your warranty if you still have one.
A couple of taps on the indents on the sliders with a screwdriver will make the sliders much tighter, and you can test the tightness before putting it back together.
I went a bit overboard with mine and overtightened it, but now I prefer it that way -there's no way the keyboard will slide out without some effort

StarMonkee said:
Yep, that sounds exactly the same as my problem!
The 2 links above should help, as long as you're happy to take the phone apart. If you are willing, it is pretty easy to do, but will invalidate your warranty if you still have one.
A couple of taps on the indents on the sliders with a screwdriver will make the sliders much tighter, and you can test the tightness before putting it back together.
I went a bit overboard with mine and overtightened it, but now I prefer it that way -there's no way the keyboard will slide out without some effort
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
great, that was exactly was i searched so!
but..a couple of taps...i have noticed that the indents are "stamped", there is the possibility i will break it with too much force?
and, for opening the tytn, where i can find all the needed in one pack? i live in italy, but i have no idea of what screwdriver and things must(and where)buy.
maybe there is some omnicomprensive pack that could be shipped to italy without problem.
many thanks, i appreciate much
Gtazok

The metal is quite soft in the sliders so it is possible to hit it too hard, but I don't think you're likely to do that if you start softly and keep testing the slider tightness until it's right.
The only 'special' screws are the ones holding the case in, but they can be opened pretty easily with a small flat screwdriver. From what I can remember, the screws inside the phone are just small normal screws.

gtazok said:
omg, this will really need to open all the device!
damn, there is no other way?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay If you do tighten those screws it will help that. I've seen them to be soo bad that if you tilt the device it slides open. Soo basically if you still under warranty send it to your provider other wise follow this guide.
ftp://ftp.xda-developers.com/Uploads/Hermes/Hermes_Manual_Hyins/Hermes_Service_Manual.pdf
This will guide you through the entire process of taking apart your Hermes. Good luck if you have any questions.
[email protected]

HI!!
just managed to re-close my hermes (first time i closed it without inserting the last cable LOL...i forgot it, but before powering off he comed to my mind..omg what i have risked not plugging last cable before closing??)
however, i did manage do disassembly only with a standard little screwdriver, not without problems
i just arrived to disassemble the keyb, and get rid on the rails.
I must admit that i NEVER have seen so much dust in a phone(i think mine was re-assembled from another).
i have extracted the rails, the 2, and tried to gentle tapping the indents.No way to go, i tapped *gently*(sometimes a little hard) but i really noticed no improvement
so,i thinked:
"if i change the rails, i will have a perfectly mirrored situation, with the keyboard closed it will be ok, with keyb opened it will be a little loose"
(remember, the keyb was loose when try to open it, not when to close)
So i changed the rails, switching them...
and now it's really better, the phone rarely go off his housing, closed, and go down a little more easily(but is acceptable, because i never do any "forcing" when it's open..)
maybe, with time, the opening will become a problem, with the keyb sliding to close when it's open.
However, maybe this not occour.So for now i'm happy
last thing. I noticed that on the page where the man tried to adjust the rails, he suggested
1)to tap the indents( tried, work very very little)
2)to insert pieces of ribbon
i not tried the second suggestion, because i have not understand WHERE to insert those pieces.Maybe he was suggesting to insert them at the end of the rails? where the carts block? if it is, why? i tried to pull up the small piece of "sheet"(i don't know if it's the correct term, sorry for my bad english ) on the border of the cart where it don't block, but whitout results..so inserting ribbon what improvement would have done?
thanks for the patience to read all my messed up english and many thanks
gtaz

the sliders are becoming loose as the beginning.
someone knows where to buy the sliders as a spare parts?

anyone know?

ok no way?

gtazok said:
anyone know?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take a look in this thread & mikechannon's link; if not there, then just pm / ask mikechannon...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=298784

galaxys said:
Take a look in this thread & mikechannon's link; if not there, then just pm / ask mikechannon...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=298784
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks

gtazok said:
the sliders are becoming loose as the beginning.
someone knows where to buy the sliders as a spare parts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you just need to increase those indents a bit more than you did. It is more successful to tap the indents using a small flat blade screwdriver and a small hammer. (Go easy of course and keep testing as you tap. You want a very firm click into place. You should hear the click and it should be really quite hard to move the slider over the indents using your finger tips)
The tapping technique is probably better than just pressing a screwdriver blade onto the indent. Pressing rather than tapping is likely to simply bend the entire metal strip and curve it slightly. This might improve the grip for a while but as the curve gradually straightens out again the slider will just become loose again. Using the tapping method I did mine well over a year ago and I have never had to redo it and it takes a very firm push an audibl clicks to open the device.
(Buying new sliders will not solve your problem. The vast majority, it seems to me were made withy too shallow indents. It may be worth buying new ones if the micro welds have sprung apart however)
Mike

hi
i dismantled my hermes one more time. This time i put out an hammer(a big hammer,indeed)so i "gently" hammered with a flat screwdriver the indents.
result? the keyb is now "really locked" when i open it..but the opening problem remain.
when i try to open it when it is closed, with my finger, i notice that the slipping of the upper left part(seeing the phone from the front) is EVER too loose, i reopened 2 times and tapped "not so gently" the incriminated indent, but i noticed no result. i also tried to exchange the sliders (the lower with the higher) but no improvement was done.
i think that is a defective implementation, because the "centre of pressure" is located in the upper part of the phone, so the phone is like to open more easily when it is closed. Did anyone noticed that?
however, the overall is increased, i think, about 30-40% more tighten as before, and that is no bad.
shame it has no solved my problem, but life it so bad that i can will be live happy with a little loose tytn
thanks
Gtazok

I agree that my the upper left keyboard slider has always been looser than the bottom...

good, that confirm my idea.
let us know if any other noticed the same thing.
thanks
gtazok

[Q] Epic Disassembly - How can I open it up?

I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?

IBNobody said:
I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.

scriz said:
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?

IBNobody said:
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lmao @ ====> or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?[/QUOTE]
hilarious!

http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.

los1223 said:
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Searched disassembly, not teardown. Thanks.
The link actually helped.
The Epic has 2 microphones?

start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.

Kcarpenter said:
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've found a teardown picture that illustrates the difficulty...
https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/eas/GetApplicationAttachment.html?id=1311529
The problem was the two tabs. I didn't realize how long they were.

There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.

arashed31 said:
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once I saw how the back cover was snapped on (wide indents that snap to the silver), I was able to remove it. I used a credit card, sliding it down from the volume button, parallel to the phone. Every so often, I'd use the card as a wedge to pry the top off. Eventually, it snapped open.
Unfortunately, I am unable to find a problem. The main microphone works. It just doesn't work in speakerphone mode.
Oh well... I'm on my 4th Epic. I'm holding off on returning them to Amazon. I'll have 3 of 'em sitting around in case I need to make a FrankenEpic.

Do you see any way to tighten the screen slider?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App

Hey, if/while you're still in there... do you see a MLF-type chip (these are the ones that look like a plastic box with no visible pins because the metal pads are entirely on the underside) that's approximately 3mm x 4mm that has something like "FSA 9480" (or just "9480", or even "Fairchild") written on it? Probably near the USB port? I've read about its existence inside the Epic (and all Galaxy S models), and it seems to be getting enumerated by the kernel during bootup, but I didn't see any actual chip bearing the name in any teardown pics I've looked at. I'm starting to suspect that the "9480" *might* just be IP that Samsung licensed from Fairchild and incorporated into one of their own ASICs (with "9480" being the "IP name" of the chip Fairchild sells as the 9280), but it's really hard to tell.
For anyone who didn't see my other post, or the thread in the I9000 board, the FSA9480 is a USB switch that enables the USB port's two data pins to be repurposed for a) serial UART Txd and Rxd, b) Stereo audio left and right out, c) mono headset with audio out and mic in, and d) JTAG via a special interface called "JIG" that's kind of like Atmel's Debugwire and serializes the various pins of a JTAG interface. It's not actually using USB... it electronically disconnects the two pins from the USB interface, and connects them to the audio/uart/JIG pins elsewhere inside the phone.
Also, if you can see anything that resembles a manufacturer or part number for the USB port, that would be awesome. I know that someone, somewhere HAS to make them, but trying to find nonstandard, offbeat connectors in the millions of items sold by companies like Digikey, Arrow, Avnet, Mouser, etc. is like looking for a needle in a haystack unless you already know the exact part number you're looking for.

didnt really llook too hard, but i didnt see any

How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?

Yes its rather easy you take off the back cover use something like a guitar pick to pop the back snaps apart then from there undo the connections to the main board remove it a few more screws under the sticker and one under the main board i think there is a ribbon cable you have to be genital with they rip really easy also make sure its put back the way it needs to be.. when replacing the screen there are tear down guides all over the new that show it in detail...
Edit: Found a Video for you... http://satmedia.co.uk/sprint-samsung-epic-4g-galaxy-s-sph-d700-take-apart-tear-down-video-mpg/
Chabsin said:
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Pry bar and hammer should do it!
Sent from my '' Bag Phone ''

Project <HandyHD2>

Hi there!
With this post I`am starting a new thred about creating something like this:
out from HTC HD2.
IMPOSSIBRU?
NO!
Right now I have:
two broken HTC HD2 (EU and USA models). Both with broken digitizers. EU model is also disassembled
;
this case
(sorry I've already remade it and dont have original photo);
Ideas! many of em. Too many I think.
Why?
I think it would be great to have pda/phone based on your arm. At least it is always in your hand. Or very close to it .
This thread will contain:
photos. I hope I will not forget taking photos of the process;
maybe sketches. I am very bad in painting, but sometimes it is easier to show your idea rather than to describe it;
many text mistakes. I am using half my studied english half google translate >_<
I am looking forward for some support and of course ideas from those, who are interested in this.
So here we go!
<25.06.14>
Right now I remade case. I got it without protection screen (it was removed with scissors). Screen from HD2 fits it perfectly!
Of course, I could leave the phone simple in there... NO! It is not the way I want it to! It would be as thin and comfortable as possible!
I've removed the belt with velcro (am I using the right word for it? ) becouse it was designed for forearm and is too long for wrist, Right now I'am resew the velcro becouse I want it to contact arm with soft part, not the hard one.
Wow, I've just bent needle. The case rubber is realy tough
As far as my needle is broken and I want to sleep (it is 01:24 lol), I will describe the basic idea now.
I want to separate screen, motherboard, camera and battery. Place them at different part of the hand to make the whole system smaller.
The screen will be on the upper side of the hand. Screen and only screen.
The case will be fasten with velcro. It will be remade also
This case had a small pocket for keys and/or other things
. And it size is just like motherboard
. So I want to put a motherboard in this pocket and place it on the belt on the back (bottom) side of the hand
. Becouse of it small size I beleve that it wouldn't be broken on the hand.
</25.06.14>

Reserved
Reserved

Reserved
Maybe I will use it

your first pic reminds me of the nuclear device in the Predator movies
It might be a bit tricky receiving a call with the phone on your forearm, bt headset?
Look forward to updates on your progress though.
Best of luck

Robbie P said:
your first pic reminds me of the nuclear device in the Predator movies
It might be a bit tricky receiving a call with the phone on your forearm, bt headset?
Look forward to updates on your progress though.
Best of luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found it. Lol, rly look alike (don't have 10 posts to put img here)
The first pic (and basic idea) is taken from the Operation Black Mesa game (HL2 mod)
I think of bt headset or wired headset puted from arm to ear (under clothes it is not so tricky I think). I want to put earphone jack to upper side. I will make some sketches tomorrow.

E1Dor4do said:
I found it. Lol, rly look alike (don't have 10 posts to put img here)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found it too

Good looking ...
Great Work ... Deserves a Try ... Thanks Man ...

25.06.2014
So here we go again
Right now a friend of mine is making some sketches about a basic concept (I told that I'm bad in painting)
Here goes the basic concept:
I am thinking about how to make screen wiring longer. I want to make my own wiring for it. Here is example:
The problem is: is has 45 (!!!) connectors. Very tricky, but I think it is possible. I believe. I hope...
Right now I'm thinking how my own wiring can be connected to screen wiring. I'm thinking about disassembling screen connector from motherboard and to install it on my wiring. So screen could be replaced in case.
So right now need ideas: where to place the battery, where to place camera, how to connect all this.
So here goes madness
I've disassemblied screen, where wiring is going, and found this:
I'm goung to cut off the connector from wiring, and solder it to my wiring. Then I will use it to connect wiring to motherboard. On the other side I will silder a connector from motherboard.(I will buy it) so I will make en extantion for standart screen connector

Still alive
Well, I'm not dead yet
Just taking my vacation in Italy.
ASAP I will get back to work.
Stay in touch!

Wow, i love the idea, i would be pleased to do this with my old hd2.
If you complete the project, please write a instruction, i even would pay for something, what looks like
a badass Pipboy from Fallout

Any update on this?