Database Users

Poor build quality.

I see other people have posted the problem with the stylus coming loose over time.
I also noticed today that the paint inside the ie button and to a certain extent the messaging button (the buttons above the screen) has been removed, it seems due to taking the device out of the holder all the time.
Anyone else think this is realy poor
Paul

yes i too think its a little lack-lustre.
the internet and messaging buttons logo's have both lost 90% of their paintwork.
i think it wont be too long until my keyboard becomes a little too easy to open. after all its only two little plastic notches which cause it to "snap in and out" once they have worn down a little then its gunna get ugly

thefunkygibbon said:
yes i too think its a little lack-lustre.
the internet and messaging buttons logo's have both lost 90% of their paintwork.
i think it wont be too long until my keyboard becomes a little too easy to open. after all its only two little plastic notches which cause it to "snap in and out" once they have worn down a little then its gunna get ugly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that true ? I am going to buy one, you talkng about Qtek9100 or K-Jam or both???

i have kjam, but both are the same in terms of build
heres a cross section of the slider in action... when you pull it out the little notch "snaps" into the recess.. and the same when you close.
seeings as its just plastic i have a feeling that that will eventually wear down with use. i already think its become looser than it used to be from only having it a month

I have the qtek 9100 and do not have any oif the problems described above .... yet!!
Stu

Hermes Keyboard

Hi,
I am just checking on my new Softbank Hermes
Just noticed that the keys the farthest right of the keyboard are little bit deeper (or sunk) that the ones on the left...but they response perfectly.
Are your unit the same ?
Thanks

anyone ? I have 3 days for exchange ..

I have an HTC Tytn and my keyboard is not like that.

My T key has a big oval of paint scraped off of it, and the backlight shows through, seems the center of my keyboard had a hump in it.
If you can exchange it, I likely would.

sectorlord said:
Hi,
I am just checking on my new Softbank Hermes
Just noticed that the keys the farthest right of the keyboard are little bit deeper (or sunk) that the ones on the left...but they response perfectly.
Are your unit the same ?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Internally the Hermes has on one side of the keyboard (can't remember if this is shown on the wiki pictures) a foam rubber block running from the qwerty row down to the spacebar row. At the opposite end this is absent as internal parts make up the gap. It does not surprise me that there is some uneven-ness in external appearance though this should be very minimal. If your keyboard works perfectly I'd hang onto it given numerous reported problems with unresponsiveness of keys.
My keyboard if anything is a fraction higher in central area but not so high it scrapes on screen assembly.
Mike

Hi Mike,
Thanks for the tip...
Browsing from the pics, youre right, the left side has this foam block and the other side has none. That's why the keyboard is high on the left side and slowly sinking going to the right...(around half of millimeter..)
My unit is working perfectly, and I dont want to change it if the unit would be the same.... it might be the design ,...

sectorlord said:
Hi Mike,
My unit is working perfectly, and I dont want to change it if the unit would be the same.... it might be the design ,...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quite right would be a gamble. Was just about to guide you to pictures just as you replied saying you'd seen them!!
Mike

Dont know why you have a hump on the center part of your keyboard...your foam block might be in the center in your case ?
I also saw that the keyboard PCB is fixed by a clip on the right and a black thing on the left side...do you know what's this thing ?
so...there a way to "perfect it" by putting a slightly thinner foam on the right side to equalize the pressure...
Do you have a pic on how to do it ?

Blank white screen....not the normal problem...

I don't understand it, the 8525 I have has a blank white screen. I thought the ribbon cable was bad so I ordered a new one, cost me $50, put it in, still the same problem. The motherboard itself is fine, I swapped it into another 8525 and it works with no problems, I swapped a different board into my 8525, and it has the same problem, blank white screen. I checked the LCD and everything, but I don't freakin understand it!! Anyone know what the heck is going on? It's annoying the crap out of me because I can't find the source of the problem.

Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?

shmilson said:
Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, haven't tried that....but I completely removed the dpad controller and still had the same problem.

Oh and the dpad IS working because I was able to hard reset the device even though I can't see anything....

Is you're void sticker gone? If not I'd say get AT&T to replace it, that's what I did when I had that problem.
Check our USB port and see if it's shorting anything? That's what happened to me. I go the white screen every I plugged in anything into the USB port.

Dpad
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.

shmilson said:
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike

mikechannon said:
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did notice it too. After a lot of tries, I got to the optimum on my phone (after the whitescreens started -- probably from a fall), giving a slight torque to the screws but not too much. It's much better then before, but still.. The d-pad pressing actually "fixes" the problem, so I guess that the controller is bad or when I apply some pressure I "fix" this. It's completely random and may be related to temperature (after taking battery out for a long time, problem tends to be less often). In a few days when my controller arrives I'll make sure I screw the connector well and hoping for the best.

When I look at the xilinx(if I remember it right) fpga circuit closely there is a small gap between 2 corners and circuit board. It might be the case that the solderballs under the chip arent soldered that well and when you use D-pad the circuit board bends a bit and in a time the bad solderballs loose connection. The bad thing is that you cant check the solderballs at home (it requires x-ray inspection if you want to keep it in one piece).

FIXED IT!
I fixed it! Well, it's a bit soon to tell it'll keep like that, but after ordering a new d-pad controller from cnn.cn, and taking extra care on installing it as the technical manual says (keeping 90 degrees angle on connection to keyboard), everything is back! No more whitescreens (let's hope it stays that way), ALL buttons are back!

Hardware buttons doesn't work anymore on my Trinity.

Hi all, my Trinity's hardware buttons doesn't work.
The 2 softkey hardware buttons, the red and the green button, the ok button and the Start button seems to be broken also if they have backlight. All the others buttons are ok.
I've tried to softreset, hardreset and flash the ROM (I'm using last Ervius ROM). After flashing for the first time the buttons were ok for a littewhile but now they seems to be broken again even after several flash. I've also tried to downgrade to wm5 but nothing change. I think that is an hardware issue and I'm going to try to fix it by opening my Trinity hoping that is just a flat connector pluged out but if someone else has experienced the same problem and has to suggest me something is really welcome.

Campo said:
Hi all, my Trinity's hardware buttons doesn't work.
The 2 softkey hardware buttons, the red and the green button, the ok button and the Start button seems to be broken also if they have backlight. All the others buttons are ok.
I've tried to softreset, hardreset and flash the ROM (I'm using last Ervius ROM). After flashing for the first time the buttons were ok for a littewhile but now they seems to be broken again even after several flash. I've also tried to downgrade to wm5 but nothing change. I think that is an hardware issue and I'm going to try to fix it by opening my Trinity hoping that is just a flat connector pluged out but if someone else has experienced the same problem and has to suggest me something is really welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I experienced this myself, and replaced this item:
http://cnn.cn/shop/p3600dopod-d810-keypad-p-1825.html
HPN

keys are stuck
Mine also, but solved it after a couple of days (temporarily). The hardware buttons problem seems to be related with one of the keys stuck. If one of those keys is stuck none of the others work. I tried "fast" double clicking on one key at a time to unstuck and it worked for me. Mine has been working for two weeks with no problem. Anyway I ordered that part "just in case".
So before opening your trinity try to unstuck the keys. It seems to be related with humidity conditions and carrying the phone in the pocket (just a guess).

hpn said:
I experienced this myself, and replaced this item:
http://cnn.cn/shop/p3600dopod-d810-keypad-p-1825.html
HPN
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks !

n0t said:
Mine also, but solved it after a couple of days (temporarily). The hardware buttons problem seems to be related with one of the keys stuck. If one of those keys is stuck none of the others work. I tried "fast" double clicking on one key at a time to unstuck and it worked for me. Mine has been working for two weeks with no problem. Anyway I ordered that part "just in case".
So before opening your trinity try to unstuck the keys. It seems to be related with humidity conditions and carrying the phone in the pocket (just a guess).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going to try this becouse during the last 4 days sometimes the buttons work so.... thanks!

Ok, nothing work.
I've also tried to open the device but looking behind the buttons pad fortunally/unfortunally there isn't an evident hardware problem.
The only solution is to replace the pad.

Hi to all.
I have had buttons not working on my trinity for some time. was tempted to send it back for repair but i did not want to be without my phone and did not want to have to stick the old wm5 rom back on!!
I took my trinity apart too see if i could see anything wrong. and got it down to the keypad. one thing i did notice is that there was a lot of dust. also around the small disks that provide the buttons, there are 3 small holes in the sealing sheet. seems that the construction of the switch array is circuit board at the bottom, with small tin disks on top, all held in place with a thin plastic sheet.
The tin disks 'pop' inside out when you press the buttons, making the contact for the switch. On the old nokia phones, these disks got deformed and this would make the button work but with no click. I had a click but no button operation, and with the holes, and all the dust i found, i figured that it must be dusty contacts.
so here is how i managed to fix my buttons for free:
1, strip the phone to get to the keyboard circuit (i used this link clicky)
2, clean all the dust from the buttons
3, start to tease the plastic film from the front of the board (i used a sharp knife but mind your fingers and take care not to damage the board)
4, once one corner is up you should be able to slowly pull the film up (take care not to damage the disks as the plastic comes up but make sure the disks stay on the plastic sheet)
5, dont pull the sheet totally off otherwise you will have a job getting it all to line up after.
6, get some alcohol or head cleaning fluid on a cotton bud and clean all the gold contacts, as well as the insides of the discs.
7, slowly rub the plastic film to put it back where it came from, taking care to get the disks in the center of the gold contacts.
8, rebuild and test
All being well you should have working buttons again!!! It seems the design of the buttons lets dust inside the workings.
Hope this helps someone with clicking buttons but no action!!!

HD2's innards: Attempted vibration motor fix gone horribly wrong.. HELP!

I'm hoping somebody with some knowledge of the HD2's innards can help me...
My vibration stopped working on my HD2. I found the plastic LED flash cover to be 'pushed in' (with the help of a couple xda threads I dug up). Others said it was an easy fix: Open the case and push that piece of plastic back into place.
I opened up the case to correct it. But after putting it back together not only does vibrate not work, but the volume keys, speakers (both earpiece and speakerphone), flash, notification led, and camera all don't work.
I obviously screwed something up, but I have no clue what it could have been. I was very careful. One thing I'll note is that when I pulled the case apart, the plastic volume rocker went flying. When putting the phone back together I got it back into place so that I THOUGHT it should work (it was seated properly and felt "clicky" for up/down movements.
But clearly wasn't just the volume rocker that was affected. It doesn't seem that I pulled anything else loose or anything like that...
But no luck, all that I listed above is non functional, and what I'm left with is a glorified 3.5 in tablet
Any ideas?? Thanks in advance!!!

Snapped a couple quick pics which may help:
http://i50.tinypic.com/mmsa36.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/sl1kdx.jpg
Unfortunately when comparing these to other pictures of the inside of the HD2 that I found online, I fail to see any differences, or anything I could have inadvertently screwed up.

Most likely you screwed up(or disconnected from motherboard) somehow your main flexboard, but your picture are not usable for this, you should take off your motherboard+main flexboard from chassis to have a full view!

You probobly just disconnected a small cable. I have no idea of the HD2 innards but did multiple repairs of small stuffs and the flat cables hold in place by a plastic clicker pull out easily - just reopen and check them all, you should be fine.

Thanks for the input! I figured it's something like that, just one small cable. But I didn't even take off the board at all... The pictures show the full extent of the disassembly... Do we still think it's necessary to disassemble it further?
I checked all visible connections, but yeah, maybe I somehow yanked out something that is NOT visible. I'll try to check again today... In the meantime, any more ideas from anyone else? Thanks!

For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...

Have u tried starting up the phone without the backing? I had this issue when I painted my housing the led cover was stopping the motor from spinning but if i took out the backing it works. So I just trimmed the led cover and now it works.

Mister B said:
For al that to be not responding I would assume main-flex damaged or as mention before maybe connection to mainboard got moved during pulling cover !
Volume button can be troublesome, sometimes the little plastic caps come off but if it felt clicky should be good in that respect.
also be very carefull of thin spring metal legs that contact antenna pads on back cover, one near screw above & right of vibro motor looks a to be a bit flat. They bend easily & break easily too ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm nooby with regard to this stuff; I only attempted the repair since I read in a couple other threads about multiple self-proclaimed non-super-tech savvy people were able to open it up and move the plastic LED cover for an easy fix.
So what exactly am I looking for with regard to the main-flex? Where is it? I thought I wouldn't really see that unless I removed the board which I haven't done... is it still possible I knocked it loose or damaged it? I didn't think that would be possible since I ONLY removed the back cover (though it does take a slightly uncomfortable amount of force to do so, so I guess anything can happen...).
If not the main flex cable, is there anything else specific to look at which may be disconnected? It seems to be all the stuff at the top of the phone that fails to work (camera, speakers, vibration, flash, volume keys). While the stuff on the bottom (other hardware buttons, charging jack, headphone jack, etc).
THanks!

I have given up. After being stumped briefly how to hard reset the device without the volume keys working (I have Android installed), I was able to do it via ADB from the Android dev kit.
To ebay I go...