8525 dead after program removed!!! - 8525, TyTN, MDA Vario II, JasJam General

I was removing iGuidance v3 and in the middle of it, the phone turned off. Thought I just hit the power button to turn off screen and press power again. Nothing. Thinking it just crashed, I held down power button, nothing; removed battery and replaced it and hit power, nothing. Put it on the charger and it doesnt have any lights showing its charging.
The phone is less than 6 months old, could it be the battery? What should I do? any help here appreciated.

Have you tried a reset press and hold both the side OK button and the power button and then press the reset button by putting the stylus into the hole in the bottom of the device.? This takes sometimes more try's.
Now do a soft reset (again put your stylus in the hole on the bottom of the device, dont press any other buttons).
Mostly this should do the trick!

Ok, replaced battery today and still no power nor charge. So how do I reset? Hold power and ok button down and then replace stylus in hole? Do you mean the ok button on the side or on the front?

You may want to do a HARD reset, not a soft one.

Tried hard and soft resets by putting stylus in pin hole. No luck, think its toast. Also tried the battery in/battery out trick while on charge.
Ive heard of phones crashing or being bricked after a bad rom install or taking off usb too soon, but removing a program and it dying is different. Never had any issues with this phone. Is there a way to test it w/ a multimeter to see if mobo is bad?

What about replacing the little round battery thats on the mainboard? Would that do anything?

Isn't it still covered under warranty? If so, just have them fix or replace it bro.

No warranty. Replaced the screen myself a long time ago.

I just got an email from HTC telling me basically how to preform a hard reset. Well it didnt work. My phone is a paper weight now. Ive never had to do a hard reset before. Used Memaid to do the soft reset all the time. Ill keep trying and fix it eventually by either replacing the mainboard or digging deeper for a fix. Thanks for help everyone

Just got an email from HTC help:
"Dear Customer,
Thank you for contacting HTC America.
For repair inquiry, please contact our repair center at 1-888-354-2375. They will provide you with all the info rmation that is needed for the process of repairing. They will provide you with a RMA number. After that you can send in your phone for further diagnosing. After analyzing, they will determine if it’s in warranty or out of warranty. If it is in warranty, they will repair and return the unit. If it is out of warranty, they will contact you to secure a payment. If you have any questions or concern after you send in your phone, you can call the repair number again to check on the status.
For troubleshooting, please call 1-866-449-8358. If you would like to purchase any accessories, please contact our accessories department at 1-888-716-3594.
I hope we have answered your question in detail. Feel free to contact us again if you have any further questions.
Best regards,
Michelle Pham
HTC America CSR"
I called the number for troubleshooting first and was told that this isnt a fix that anyone can do on their own. It must be sent in for further analysis. What was interesting about the conversation is when I asked if he had ever heard of this problem before. He said he gets that problem all the time with these models. Ive never of this happening. Never found any other posts about it either. I bet its a problem with the phone holding a charge on the mainboard, like a faulty capacitor most likely its gonna have to be j-tagged at the repair center.

Hi
I don't think this is a very common problem as they say. Yes, there are many reports of the failing to charge issue and stuck on the red LED light, but only a tiny number of absolutely dead devices.
Curiously, the service manual refers to an on-board fuse. But later states that when this is blown that those without board level repair authority should "replace the m/board". Clearly then, this is either not a fuse in the ordinary sense of the word or refers to any component that may be "blown" and would require detailed tests to track the problem.
Just for info: the m/board is not a basic simple one in terms of soldering / component removal and replacement. Speaking personally, I would not attempt anything more than very basic work on this board - perhaps just on some of the "cruder" connections here and there. Boards in these types of phone make the more typical boards in other electrical equipment look like ironmongery.
Mike

Ive examined the mainboard and looked it over very carefully for any burnt resistors or capacitors. Nothing out of the ordinary. The components would be a huge project to replace, their soooo small, only the mini USB charger port could actually be done by hand.
What would the fuse look like? Is it soldered to the board? I see a small round battery near the PTT button. Is this something that can be replaced? Probably messes up the BIOS when removed like a computer motherboard.
I shouldnt have been so quick to sell off my Wizard before this happened.

often fuses are no longer used, they use a for example 1 Ohm resistor of limited power rating instead.
You might try to follow the current on the mobo while the charger is connected, see whether you can locate the disconnecting (faulty) part.....but the size of the components makes this a very difficult job....my gues would be that the problem is located near the power entry/regulator if nothing goes, meaning no action while on battery nor w the charger connected.

marcelnl said:
often fuses are no longer used, they use a for example 1 Ohm resistor of limited power rating instead.
You might try to follow the current on the mobo while the charger is connected, see whether you can locate the disconnecting (faulty) part.....but the size of the components makes this a very difficult job....my gues would be that the problem is located near the power entry/regulator if nothing goes, meaning no action while on battery nor w the charger connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But these are multi-layered boards, it will be very hard to trace a connection on it.

Ok, so I lost my motherboard. Probably something killed it during the whole uninstall process. Made peace w/ that. Maybe bury it in the backyard or something. LOL
I bought it to replace my aging 8125, but wonder if I did it for the wrong reason. I thought the new processor would be way faster, but it really wasnt that fast. 8525 has a nicer housing, camera and 3G (which i never used), A2DP that doesnt skip. Never even used the pre-installed programs like Mobi-TV, Telenav, etc.
Anyways, anyone think a 8125 motherboard will fit in a 8525 housing?

Related

Hermes totally dead.

Since I brought my jasjam it hasnt had a good life. It has been bashed around a bit too much and I only have myself to blame. This unfortunatly has cause the white screen of death getting worse and worse. Taking apart and reseating the ribbon cable to the board appeared to help but it would soon start getting worse again. The short term fix was a thump accros the palm of my hand. Unfortunatly today this back fired in me and now the phone is totally dead. I am fortunate enough to have another Jasjam that i was sorting out a few problems for a friend and this gave me the ability to swap out batteries chargers etc to try and get mine to fire up. No good.
I have taken it apart and checked all cables to no avail. pluggin in usb or charger have no affect. no lights no responce of anysort.
Any suggestions would be a great help
Thanks
Shane
shane11r said:
Since I brought my jasjam it hasnt had a good life. It has been bashed around a bit too much and I only have myself to blame. This unfortunatly has cause the white screen of death getting worse and worse. Taking apart and reseating the ribbon cable to the board appeared to help but it would soon start getting worse again. The short term fix was a thump accros the palm of my hand. Unfortunatly today this back fired in me and now the phone is totally dead. I am fortunate enough to have another Jasjam that i was sorting out a few problems for a friend and this gave me the ability to swap out batteries chargers etc to try and get mine to fire up. No good.
I have taken it apart and checked all cables to no avail. pluggin in usb or charger have no affect. no lights no responce of anysort.
Any suggestions would be a great help
Thanks
Shane
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's too much of a challenge to answer - could be any number of things. Without testing it with a multimeter I couldn't say.
What surprises me is that your friend lets you anywhere near his phone - and does he know you use his bits to test out your poor maltreated Hermes
I assume you have looked through the service manual to seek any clues?
Get it at the web link in my signature.
Mike
Thanks f0r you reply Mike
Im sure what he doesnt know wont hurt him anyway its only battery and charger.
Had a look thriough the service manual nothing jumps up and pokes me in the eye. I guess its fairly safe to say the main board has had it.
I cant seem to find anywhere to buy a replacment board and more importantly how much they are so i can see if its viable.
any suggestions
Thanks
Shane
shane11r said:
Thanks f0r you reply Mike
Im sure what he doesnt know wont hurt him anyway its only battery and charger.
Had a look thriough the service manual nothing jumps up and pokes me in the eye. I guess its fairly safe to say the main board has had it.
I cant seem to find anywhere to buy a replacment board and more importantly how much they are so i can see if its viable.
any suggestions
Thanks
Shane
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From my experience, you can only get motherboards from HTC or their repair outlets - this will cost lot$. Maybe if you're shelling out $$$ why not wait for the Kaiser?
please help my mate's dead Hermes
hi, this is to anyone who can help mainly prof and mikechannon. basically, i was trying to use my mates BRAND NEW hermes to repair my WLAN (Tmobile Hermes). it was working perfectly well until ran the RUU programme. i selected the 1.04SPL so that i could flash the hermes with the new NBH file i created. it flashed a 100% and it turned off and now its not coming back on. i plugged it into the charger, but no luck.i am afraid if i send it back to HTC, they might want to charge me for it. i love this phone badly, but sadly,i have given my mate mine. i dont mind sending this phone o anyone in the UK who can fix it. PLEASE HELP
shelay said:
hi, this is to anyone who can help mainly prof and mikechannon. basically, i was trying to use my mates BRAND NEW hermes to repair my WLAN (Tmobile Hermes). it was working perfectly well until ran the RUU programme. i selected the 1.04SPL so that i could flash the hermes with the new NBH file i created. it flashed a 100% and it turned off and now its not coming back on. i plugged it into the charger, but no luck.i am afraid if i send it back to HTC, they might want to charge me for it. i love this phone badly, but sadly,i have given my mate mine. i dont mind sending this phone o anyone in the UK who can fix it. PLEASE HELP
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not a flashing expert, so POF might be the first person to contact even if it's just to see if this is some recognised thing that can happen despite getting to 100%.
Can we assume the phone is completely dead? ie NO LEDs lit at all even when on charger?
Mike
reply for hermes (mikechannon)
yes it is totally dead. the LED only comes on RED when i take out the battery and stick in the charger.its not responding to anything. i have tried a HARD reset, no luck even a Soft reset too. i am now trying to use microsoft window CE 5 builder software, but i honestly dont think it will work. i really have to fix this phone. it a brand new phone.i tried ringing HTC europe but they are closed today. how can i check if its still under warranty. also, i bought it off some guy on ebay and just had it delivered this morning and now i have managed to brick it
shelay said:
yes it is totally dead. the LED only comes on RED when i take out the battery and stick in the charger.its not responding to anything. i have tried a HARD reset, no luck even a Soft reset too. i am now trying to use microsoft window CE 5 builder software, but i honestly dont think it will work. i really have to fix this phone. it a brand new phone.i tried ringing HTC europe but they are closed today. how can i check if its still under warranty. also, i bought it off some guy on ebay and just had it delivered this morning and now i have managed to brick it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I think you need to get a reply here or speak to one of the ROM gurus to see if this is a kniwn result of a faulty flash (seems odd to be but I'm no expert)
The phone is not completely dead if the RED led lights when the battey is out. It is meant to do this. Normally if the battey is faulty the LED will also go red when the battery is inserted.
Are you saying that when you put the battery in the Red LED goes out and no LEDs then show?
Mike
I had the same problem as well.
Red LED w/o battery, and NOTHING else.
Battery IN + charger : no LED
Anything else : no LED
Phone wouldnt boot
So I bought from eBay a broken 8525 that was reported to power up, but the screen was broken and some buttons were malfunctioning before the screen broke.
Swapped the motherboards and now I got a functional 8525.
dead hermes
yes, mikechannon, thats excatly what i am saying. when the battery is out and the charger is in, the RED LED comes on. but when the battery and the charger is in, nothing happens
shelay said:
yes, mikechannon, thats excatly what i am saying. when the battery is out and the charger is in, the RED LED comes on. but when the battery and the charger is in, nothing happens
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would have been tempted to say to check with another battery in case it was therefore a battery fault. BUT given what alkizmo says above it suggests the issue is as likely to be a blown component on the m/board. The Service Manual Hermes or Wizard ( I forget which) refers to a fuse. However nobody so far has identified a fuse as such. It may be another component (resistor perhaps) that is used to blow if current is exceeded. At present though we do not have sufficient info to either identify this component or bypass it.
Still think it's worth a casual inquiry to the ROM gurus to hear their view on whether this is hard or software related.
Mike
Hermes Dead Battery ??
The Red Light Will Not Work If The Charge Is More Than 50 Per Cent
So Try To Shutdown Your Hermes And Put The Usb Charger Then Reboot Your Hermes
May Be It Will Work
mikechannon said:
Still think it's worth a casual inquiry to the ROM gurus to hear their view on whether this is hard or software related.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Having experienced blown motherboards on a laptop, a desktop and now a cellphone, I can attest to this : If NOTHING powers on at ALL, it is a hardware fault. Before you speak out for laptop/deskop, don't forget about the BIOS, if the BIOS is fried, the motherboard will still power up (fans spinning, lights turning on).
However, maybe that something in the software CAUSED the hardware issue. However, once the damage is done, no changes to the software (even if you could change the software without turning on the phone) would make a difference.
SETOUF said:
The Red Light Will Not Work If The Charge Is More Than 50 Per Cent
So Try To Shutdown Your Hermes And Put The Usb Charger Then Reboot Your Hermes
May Be It Will Work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The red light shows when there is no battery as well and the charger is plugged, if there is no battery and the red light doesnt show, you got a problem.
And, shutting down/rebooting is not an option here. The guy's phone won't even light up. It's fried.
Last suggestion of hope : remove the battery and leave the phone unplugged for a whole day. Then put back the battery and do a hard reset attempt.
If this doesnt work, then I got nothing else, as I said, I resulted in replacing the motherboard.
if you cant get it working i will buy the back speaker off you
ok, i am an optimistic person so i will surely try your approach. one question though, as the phone is brand new, do you reckon if i send it back to HTC europe, can they fix it as it is still under warranty?
thanks a lot for your reply. i am an Optimist so i will surely give your method a try. one question though: do you reckon if i send it back to HTC europe, will they fix it as the phone is brand new and still under warranty.although, i bought the phone on ebay brand new from a seller for my mate.its a vodafone branded HTC. cheers
Authorized Dealer?
shelay said:
thanks a lot for your reply. i am an Optimist so i will surely give your method a try. one question though: do you reckon if i send it back to HTC europe, will they fix it as the phone is brand new and still under warranty.although, i bought the phone on ebay brand new from a seller for my mate.its a vodafone branded HTC. cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Usually, most companies only warranty items from authorized dealers. If the seller was an authorized dealer you are ok. If not, they "might" fix it. Call to make sure before sending it in.
Dead Hermes
My VPA Compact III v1605 seems to have the same type of problem - it only shows red lite when it is plugged in and battery is off, but... but I can also (hardly) recognise 4-colour bootloader-type screen, which blinks once and reappears every time I reset the device.
It doesn't communicate with computer, MTTY says "USB port can not open"...
The difference between usual bootloader screen and this one is that I can't recognise any characters (like IPL/SPL), or maybe because it's hardly seen, I can not see characters?..
Is there any chance to have this device repaired?
Ok, not sure I can help here, but first can we clarify something -
You say the red LED shows with the batter "off". Do you mean with the battery out of the phone?
Mike
Some suggestions...
Hi there,
i messed around a lot with the hermes hardware the last few weeks.
There's a lot of stuff in those mobile that could go wrong
@shane11r
I have taken it apart and checked all cables to no avail. pluggin in usb or charger have no affect. no lights no responce of anysort.
Any suggestions would be a great help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems like there's some part messed up in hardware.
If you dropped it some times, maybe some component got damaged.
Please check the voltages on board firmly after pressing the power on button with battery inserted. Just like mikeshannon suggested
There have to 3.15V, 1.8v, and ~1.2V around the board.
I will take a picture from the mainboard with testpoints if you like.
Anyway you need some electric skills
Otherwise give to a service center or buy a new mainboard.
@shelay
hi, this is to anyone who can help mainly prof and mikechannon. basically, i was trying to use my mates BRAND NEW hermes to repair my WLAN (Tmobile Hermes). it was working perfectly well until ran the RUU programme. i selected the 1.04SPL so that i could flash the hermes with the new NBH file i created. it flashed a 100% and it turned off and now its not coming back on. i plugged it into the charger, but no luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is very similar to what happened to my device. After downgrading from olipro's hard-spl something went wrong. After flashing succeeded with 100% the device got restarted and there it was... nothing!!
What i found out in the meantime is that the IPL was not flashed correctly.
While trying to reflash the device with JTAG debugger, i examined that the NAND write protect signal sticks to GND right after reset.
Maybe this also a hardware issue. I'll find out soon
The bricked IPL-bootloader could also be the cause.
At least if the red light turns on, the DC-DC converter on the hermes is doing well. This means the unit is partially working but not booting.
....nearly forgot to say, that there is also a fuse on the hermes mainboard.
should do some pix
Cheers,
scholbert

Hermes White screen

I have read many threads and forums about the problem of the Hermes becoming white. The soft reset in this case does not help.
I found the explanation in my case and I am not able to fix it quickly, without opening the device to screw the connector.
The problem is only due to the temperature of the device. When the temp is to hot, the screen is white, in my case, it typically happens when it stays in my pocket et I moving too much throug the office ;-)
Solution, simply open the keyboard and gently blow in the thin area between the two parts of the device.. in my case, the screen comes back in 2-3 seconds.
Enjoy !
Eric
Hermes/Schaps 4.31/Orange CH
To be honest, I have this problem on my 838 (wizard) previously.
I have found someone (engineer who I need to pay) help me to check.
It is actually the connection cable between the keyboard and screen start breaking.
This makes the connection poor.
End up, my wizard cannot be repaired and I have borrow my freinds hermes to use in the mean time.
I suggest you pay special attention to it.
I suppecm that you blow it is actually helping the connection of that cable.
huh
are you guys serious in what you're talking about?
blow in between the two parts of the device when it's hot to get the connection of the cable back?
are you sure you are talking about a mobile phone and not about a compressor?
thanks for your feedback. I am convince that in my case, the gentle blow does not move the connecting cable.
Additionaly, the tipical symptom reported in various thread is that the soft reset does not help, while letting it apart for 15 minutes does help. It can confirm that the simple temperature idea is fine.
Again, it works for me, it can help others, and sorry for the others that won't find a solution with mine!
actually, i am neutal to this topic.
But just want to share my experience.
In my case, my cable is aging. Initially, it can help with slide the keyboard open and close.
End up the engineer told me that cannot be repaired deal to no parts. he examined it using a microsope watching the cable.
no need to take it too series.
It is a cable connection issue, it is caused by either dropping or opening and closing the device numerous times. It can be fixed the part cost around $20 kinda hard to find but can be found if you search enought. I can repair the device if your interested either pm me or you can contact me at
[email protected]
nate
when this happened to my hermes last August i found slightly unscrewing the two screws on the back of the screen fixed it & not had a problem since
didnt know what the white screen was 'till i got it right after the external volume crapped out, so tired of tinkering with hermes, going Kaiser
As a science experiment I have bought a number of hermes on ebay- it is a cable connection issue or worn cable in the 4 I have played with - all fixed by cleaning and reinstalling cable/connection or replacing the cable assembly. I cant say this is the only bug but 4 outy of 4 inducates a trend to me
John
Oh my gosh, topic starter, that is the same exact issue that I frequently have with my 8525. I eventually found out that if I leave it in direct sunlight, put it in my pocket for too long, or in anyway expose it to relative heat, then it would turn white.
That's a nice "fix" you have there hahah. As for me, I just let it cool down by placing it in a cool and shaded place, works like a charm after a few minutes.
Anyone with a WHITE screen MUST READ this!!!
To bring credit to what I say below, I haved had tinkering experience with electronics for the past 10 years, not to mention that I am currently a 3rd year electronics engineering student.
I currently have 4 hermes units.
When I first had the white screen prolem on my first hermes about a year ago (may be 8-10 months?) my research on the net revealed that the problem is apparently the connector on the button pad board (part number 50H000380-30M-A). After serious tinkering and tweaking I finally got the (extremely sensitive) connector connected up so that the white screen issue actually dissapeared. However, since the connection was so delicate and so sensitive, I had to fix it in place with a hot glue. Hot glue actually added some thickness to it; given that there isn't much tolerance between the top of the connector and the cover, I needed to scrape away some plastic without putting a hole in it so it can accommodate the extra thickness, this is also required for the sliding function to be smooth.
However, right now I have 4 hermes, and I am faced with the same issue. On two units I have the white screen problem. After some intuitive testing I have found that the problem is not with the flex cable, nor with the connector on the flex cable, nor the connector on the button pad board. The problem is with the actual button pad board itself, as it contains fair bit of circuitry on board.
This is how I came to the conclusion. Since the white screen can be fixed with sensitive alignment of the connecor on the board, I wondered if it will display anything with that D-pad (button pad board) disconnected. On trial, it didn't display anything on both a functional unit and a unit with a white screen issue. From this I made the assumtion that the LCD initialisation sequence is contained on the button pad board (part number 50H000380-30M-A).
Having made this assumption, I thought since the symptoms of having it disconnected on a functional unit is the same with a unit that has the white screen symptom, I wondered if it will fix the white screen problem if I changed over the button pad board. On trial, I found that the white screen problem was a thing of the past. So, I don't know what on the button pad board actually causes the white screen, but it is DEFINITELY the board it self and not the connector.
PS: I don't know the proper names of the components but by the button pad board I am talking about is the board that lies under the front buttons of the unit that has the call, end call, start, ok...etc buttons.
uengin, u totally had make ur homework regarding the white-screen-issue.
Anyway, for me, I face the exact problem too. And my way is much simpler. When ever I face the white-screen problem (this cause by the high temperature, coz I notice it only happen when I put my 838 on my pocket while walking during sunny day), I simply turn off the screen for a while (by lightly pressing the power button), like 3-5 second, then turn on the screen back. And, voila~ it back to normal.
i get a white screen when i press on the plastic casing on the lower right side of the screen, above the right bar button. no temperature involved here. sending the hermes to sleep and waking it up restores the normal screen.
pcpc said:
i get a white screen when i press on the plastic casing on the lower right side of the screen, above the right bar button. no temperature involved here. sending the hermes to sleep and waking it up restores the normal screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's actually a BGA chip in that vicinity on the button pad circuit board. It may or may not be that chip thats causing the issues, but I find it higly likely it is...
uengin said:
There's actually a BGA chip in that vicinity on the button pad circuit board. It may or may not be that chip thats causing the issues, but I find it higly likely it is...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it is the chip, then this would be a loose soldering point?
would you recommend to handle the hermes with great care? eg. not putting it in my trouser pocket because oft the pressure?
pcpc said:
if it is the chip, then this would be a loose soldering point?
would you recommend to handle the hermes with great care? eg. not putting it in my trouser pocket because oft the pressure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt its a "loose" solder joint. It could be a dry joint. But then again you never know. However, the symptoms with the heating and cooling mentioned in the thread it could be one of the several devices on the button pad board failing due to heat.
As a general rule of thumb, definitely electronic devices of this calibre should be dealt with a level of care indeed.
nohanz said:
uengin, u totally had make ur homework regarding the white-screen-issue.
Anyway, for me, I face the exact problem too. And my way is much simpler. When ever I face the white-screen problem (this cause by the high temperature, coz I notice it only happen when I put my 838 on my pocket while walking during sunny day), I simply turn off the screen for a while (by lightly pressing the power button), like 3-5 second, then turn on the screen back. And, voila~ it back to normal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same for me which seems software issue but how to solve it
I'm having white screen problem too. I highly doubt it has anything to do with a cable because:
1) I almost never use keyboard, aka don't slide open the phone
2) lately white screen often happens when I touch a screen.
3) several times white screen got fixed by holding the phone next to aircondition outlet.
4) white screen recently started at the same time I've noticed that the battery started dying, it doesn't last as long as before. Before this battery I had another one, similar, and also never had white screen while that battery was new.
To conclude all this, at least in my case is more likely it's a battery issue and/or overheat. Tomorrow I'll use the original battery (I've replaced it with 3k mAh 2 years ago) this should proof me right or wrong.
My white screen issues started after a waist-high drop onto concrete, accompanied by the D-Pad and the surrounding buttons not working. In order to get the white screen to go away and the buttons to work again, I have a simple 2-step process:
Put the Hermes to sleep
Press hard right above the D-Pad/below the screen
When I wake the device up, it works just fine!
Interesting Find......
I just noticed something about my white screens.
IF the poweron led does NOT turn on then I get white screen when turning on my hermes.
If the poweron led turns ON(lights up) when turning my phone on then it won't white screen on me.

AT&T powers off after drop

I have been using AT&T 8525 for about 5 months now. Dropped it in office a week back and it was on an uncarpetted surface. No external damage but it powered off. I had to try for a while to power it on but eventually it did power on.
Since this event it just powers off on its own. Right now, even minor jerks cause it to shut down. When you pull the phone out of your pocket after a while, it has already shut down!!! Took it for repair to a local cell phone repair assuming it might have some connector damage but they could not figure out the problem. They opened it, cleaned the interiors (as it had dust build up) and according to them everything appeared normal.
What would you guys recommend? It is running Schaps 4.30. I see that HTC has a repair service in US.....had anyone tried that?
Sounds like battery might be a little bit loose... Jam something in behind the battery to make sure of constant connection... You're not the first with this complaint. The battey terminals may have been bent back just enough to cause this intermittant problem, especially when it gets jolted, the battery disconnects from the teminals causing an automatic shutdown due to no power.. Just thank god you didn't break the terminals off. Sometimes can be fixed but if the break is at board level, you may as well sell it off on ebay for parts because its just about impossible to fix then.
Cheers...
Very smart ultramag!! Your reply made me think what I did after it fell down. At that time I did think that the battery was loose as it was running when on active syn (powered by laptop) but not when I removed the cord. I did turn the terminals a bit and it powered on after few attempts (the drop must have given the circuitry some shock to recover after sometime).
I have jammed a paper on the side of the battery opposite the battery terminal. Will report back in a day or two if it still gives any problems. That should help others with the same problem.
Also this event has taught me that invisible shield (the plastic shield that we stick on) perhaps may not be the best protection. Case is a must to absorb the shock!
ok the problem still continues despite sticking a paper on the battery side (opp the terminal). I do believe that the battery was part of the problem. Before sticking in the paper, it used to give me a Red LED for few seconds when I attempted charging and then turned to amber. Now that problem is not there....it turns to amber right away on plugging in the device.
So part of the problem is addressed but the Hermes still powers down on its own when subject to minimum shock (in your pockets and you are walking around in the office or driving a car). What do you suggest? Should I send it in to HTC? Are they good about addressing repair issues?
... and yet I think it probably is the contacts as suggested above. It may be that it's a little more than just the contacts not pressing firmly on the battery though. There have been cases where a fall has actually broken/cracked the solder joints between the contacts and the board. A trickier thing to fix unless you have some skills in that direction.
Mike
AT&T powers off after drop - HTC's take on the situation
Ok so here is HTC's evaluation of the situation.
They want to change the main board (mother-board I guess). In addition, though the phone is just 4 months old (was purchased refurb from AT&T) and has barely any scratches, they would replace the casing, the keyboard and the structure that holds the keyboard and LCD. And they would ONLY charge me $272. Isn't that ridicuously amazing??
To me it seems they can't figure out what the hell is going on, so lets just go ahead and replace a bunch of things and one of them should be a hit.
I have asked them to send the phone back. Mike, do you think the main-board could be the issue? Any recommendations of who I could try for repair.....or what I should ask the repair guy to look into to find out if the main board is the issue or not?
Only $272??? Good God! That lot would cost you around $450 if it were fixed at HTC UK!!
If the drop caused cracking internally then that may be why they want to replace the rest. if there are known defects that are not repaired, they cannot guarantee the repair and so will not do it at all if you do not agree to the whole thing.
of course, you could be right and they have no clue and simply want to replace everything and hope something gets fixed....
Don't PPCtechs also do repairs on that side of the pond?

Battery won't charge, power button broken, me going crazy

Ok, im going to start not from the beginning beginning, but from where problems started.
Friday night, went out, I was writing an sms when somebody pushed me and i dropped my wiz, i picked it up, to find that the battery was gone, nowhere to be found, i did find the cover tho. i tried to look for the batt, but i was in the middle of the club so it wasn't that easy.. I knew that a friend of mine had a spare one so i didn't worry that much.
Sunday I got the replacement, tried it, no luck, it ran out i thought, but when i tried to charge it, nothing happened. Buying a new one is not that easy when you are in Argentina, and they are expensive, so i decided to jump sart it. good news: it worked, i could turn on the phone, so the battery is fine. bad news: it still doesn't want to charge!
I previously had problems with the usb, and i had to have it soldered again, pretty strong, but I thought that might be the problem again, so i disassembled my wiz. new problem: the power button broke, the tiny, tiny black piece fell off, AND I LOST IT! DOH!
Anyways, the usb is still soldered pretty strong, i don't think its gonna go loose again, so thats not the freaking problem!
So now, instead of the initial no-charge problem, i have a disassembled wizard, that won't charge the goddamn battery, AND a broken power button (tried to glue it, but fell off again and thats when i lost the piece).
Regarding the button, i've studied my options, what would you recommend and how would you do it?
option 1: turn on the phone with the soft reset hole, and remap the screen on/off function to another button.
option 2: replace the power button internal piece with the one from the voice command button (i never use it). i've taken a look and they seem to be the same, but i don't know if taking it off and soldering it back would work..
anyways, that leaves me again with my initial problem, and i do have an hypothesis. I THINK (because I THINK i remember this happening to me before), that the battery won't start charging until windows has started, and the jump star power the battery has is not enough to get it started (tried to tape it and leave it for a while to see if it charged a bit more, but didn't work, the phone turns on but goes out when loading, and since i've my wiz pretty loaded it takes its time to load).
So to try this out i would need a way to charge the battery manually, and i don't have access to another wiz to have it charged (my friend had a spare batt because his wiz is broken).
So, if you have a solution to this, ANY different solution, or even an IDEA, please give me a hint!
For what i've read, this are common problems, so there must be something out there.
Man, that's a bad thing
I'll try to help you as much as I can.
You are right about Wiz only start charging when it's on. After my N78 was stolen and I went back to the Wizard, the battery was without any charge for months... I plugged it and no red LED... Turned it on and, bingo, red LED and charging!
The voice command and the on/off buttons are the same, so (in theory) it would work 100% IF you were able to change their places (at least for me, it is impossible to do manually, never found any good equip here =\ )
With a lot of patience (and a small soldering iron) I would try to take the voice comm button off and place it where the on/off was.
For the battery, maybe someone here can point if there is a "battery charger" standalone device, or such a thing...
Good luck man
hey thanks for the quick reply!
i'm not thinking of doing it myself, i'm not not that precise nor is my solder, but i know a guy, same dude that fixed my usb. I like that idea more than the other, but i guess that remapping the screen on/off and using the soft reset button would be much safer.. i haven't made up my mind about that yet.
Weir thing about MY wiz, at least thats what i think happened to me last time my battery was completely discharged, is that not only the device must be ON for it to charge, but it needs to have WINDOWS already loaded, i know for most devices it's not like that, but i think thats how mine works, or at least thats the only explanation i could find!
btw, i love your case modding concept, and since i might have my wiz sitting for a while, i might go ahead and try something too! nothing as extreme as yours of course.. i'd love to see more updates on your project along with some guide to see what ideas i can take
slight detail while thinking my options.. if i was to remap the screen on/off function to another button, would i need to have the device in sync? or connected via cable? because when i had the usb soldered, don't know how nor why (all the pins seem to be ok) but the device won't be recognized by any computer, usb only works for charging (or used to work, at least, still haven't figured why it won't charge now).
If its only an app that i can load to the phone, once i have it working (that if i ever will), i can load the app thru minisd, BT or IrDa so that would't be a problem.. i haven's investigated that issue yet.
Hey jinxie, how's your Wizard?
If you're still stuck with the battery (I hope not), check this out...
I think this will solve your battery problem:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=4963547&postcount=5
That's probably to work, just be carefull with the battery's temperature. If it starts to heat, stop the process and wait it to get normal, then start again.
Good luck!
i tried keeping the wires attached to the contacts for a while, didn't think it'd work better doing it just for a little and then repeating the process, i'll try that!
yeap, i'm still stuck and i think i will be for a while, i have to solve the battery issue first (would be useless to do anything else if i'm not certain i will get it to work), then i have to decide what i am going to do with the power button, and then i might paint it, i'm thinking matte black, or maybe take some ideas from your project if you have made any progress at the time!
thanks for the tip, i'll try it today and i let you know how it went
development: phone DOES NOT turn on with the soft reset button as i thought, i was sure it did, but after jumping the bat once again, tried the wiring method (not repeating the jump start but wiring it directly to de device pins), and tried to turn it on with soft reset and dind't work, while it does turn on with the power button, wich is broken, so in order to turn it on i cannot have the phone assambled, wich means that in order to try to make it work, i will need to hold the battery attached with my hands, and it is a pain in the.. you know where.
update: i wired the charger i was using to jump start the battery to the pins in the wizard, then held the battery in place with my hand, with a small screwdriver i pushed the broken power button. wizard turned on, IT FINALLY LOADED WINDOWS, but don't rush, i then (with my MOUTH) connected the USB wall charger to the port in the phone, and removed the wiring, i was expecting the goddamn light to turn on and the screen to tell me that my phone was finally charging. I WAS WRONG. then i had to let go because my hand was killing me and it went off
and the damn thing refuses to charge! what could it be????????
2nd update: I AM MACGYVER !
i figured the wiring had given the bat enough power to load windows on its own, so tried once more holding everything together with my hand but without wiring the pins this time, and at last the amber light turned on!!! im so proud of myself lol
SO NOW: device works ok, charges ok, battery has enaugh power to load windows, WHAT CAN I DO ABOUT THE BROKEN POWER BUTTON? i know you can't remap the power function since its hardware, but the screen on/off function might be remapped. soft reset button DOES not turn on the phone, is there any other way of turning it on? or my only option is to take off the voice command button and soldering it where the power button should be?
well, found the little button part that was missing, glued it (yes, GLUED it), and it kinda worked, i had painted the casing already, so i assembled everything back again. i used a folded piece of paper to hold the button still so it won't fall again and i think it was too big cause now its kind of hard to press but i can live with that, what i cannot live with is NO SIGNAL.. i mean, CMON!! are you kiddin me? now that the button works, battery works, phone assembled, and now this?? when i dissassembled the phone i forgot to take out the sim card, so the metal parts that hold it opened a bit, but i pressed them back, the sim in no way loose, so i guess i might have screwed the attenna :S
i've just checked, i can see the sim contacts so... [CENSORED] !!!
also now the screen looks weird.. like if it had less colours, like when you format your pc and haven's installed the graphic drivers yet, 3d effects look funny..
Hey man, have you painted ALL the Wizard parts, on both sides?
'Cause there is one that has a piece of copper board inside. It makes contact with the antenna. Without that contact, you'll never have signal
The piece I'm talking about is the one that has the camera protection, saying "1.3 MP camera". Look at its back and see if there's no paint on a green and golden plate. Remove the paint if it got there (the golden part is the important one, since it makes contact with the antenna).
Good luck man!
hahah lol, no of course i didn't paint both sides! but anyways im gonna take it apart again, clean it, and try again..
done. it had some paintng yes, but they were very tiny spray drops, so i don't think that is, anyway i cleaned it. On the other hand, i found that the antenna is loose on the left side :S what can i do about it?

Nexus One power button fix

I just bought a replacement power button/ flex cable for Nexus of ebay. Took me around 30 minutes to replace it but its fully working right now. Its around 30 £ .
Item name it "Flex Cable Repair Parts for HTC Google Nexus one G5 1"
Just thought i let you know .
Any pictures?
Is it a tricky fix? I replaced my digitizer just fine so hopefully this wouldn't be a major repair job in comparison. Would love to have my power button working again!
I don't understand why you fixed it yourself, I sent mine back to HTC.
stinkypete said:
I don't understand why you fixed it yourself, I sent mine back to HTC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much did it cost for the repair out of interest? Did it take them long to get it back to you?
Just curious if to you it looked like a bad button connection or a bad cable? I know sometimes the buttons get crud in them so they dont make a proper connection...
Great info. Too bad we don't have step by step pics. How did you take the phone apart and how deep did you have to go?
Does anyone know why the power button breaks? I have my N1 a year now and (luckily) i never had a HW issue. anyways i was just wondering why it breaks .
Step by step pics would have been nice.
commodoor said:
Does anyone know why the power button breaks? I have my N1 a year now and (luckily) i never had a HW issue. anyways i was just wondering why it breaks .
Step by step pics would have been nice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The power button itself has a small cylindrical piece of plastic which pushes against and presses a small connection that sorta clicks (Which gives you the tactile feedback you feel). I think the problem occurs when either 1) The piece of plastic either bends/breaks/gets damaged in some way that makes that contact much harder to produce 2) The connection is connected to the phone via a cable/flex, however due to the Nexus one design it is bent around in order to be below the power button, while this is fine for the majority some devices, including mine, have seen the flex become damaged for whatever reason and either function intermittently or not at all.
It's also interesting to note that there is nothing holding the flex or the connection in place except for the design itself i.e. the battery bay plastic holds it all in place. My power button was never that responsive (But got progressively worse) so this may explain why.
Its always flex cable breaks and there is no way you can replace just the flex cable.You can find plenty of disassembly instruction over the net and yes you need to disassembly it to the pieces( still less to do than to replace digitizer.)I had a seal broken so i couldn't send it to HTC.
Hollow.Droid said:
The power button itself has a small cylindrical piece of plastic which pushes against and presses a small connection that sorta clicks (Which gives you the tactile feedback you feel). I think the problem occurs when either 1) The piece of plastic either bends/breaks/gets damaged in some way that makes that contact much harder to produce 2) The connection is connected to the phone via a cable/flex, however due to the Nexus one design it is bent around in order to be below the power button, while this is fine for the majority some devices, including mine, have seen the flex become damaged for whatever reason and either function intermittently or not at all.
It's also interesting to note that there is nothing holding the flex or the connection in place except for the design itself i.e. the battery bay plastic holds it all in place. My power button was never that responsive (But got progressively worse) so this may explain why.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thnx for the explanation. I get it now. maybe it smart to always use trackball wake .
Ra1stlin said:
Its always flex cable breaks and there is no way you can replace just the flex cable.You can find plenty of disassembly instruction over the net and yes you need to disassembly it to the pieces( still less to do than to replace digitizer.)I had a seal broken so i couldn't send it to HTC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did some googling and found a few images of that component, I remember taking it out and it was pretty simple so it should be just fine! Thanks for the info!
Is it the Power button part that you changed ?
Hi,
I have found a photo of the power button part, can you tell us if you changed the full part shown on the photo ?
androidguys.com/2010/09/08/manage-nexus-broken-power-button
And i think you paid it way too much expensive ?
Thanks.
I just replaced my flex cable as well as the loud speaker as well.
iFixit has a few pictures and there is a video on youtube, of the taking apart process. Unfortunately I can't post links
There are two little rubber parts that will likely fall out during the mainboard removal. One goes underneath the connector beside the sim card and one is a part of the microphon.
I wish I could have taken pictures of where those parts go, but alas, my only camera right now is my nexus, so....
BTW, I bought my parts at Mobile Brando. Quite well priced as compared to many other stores of the kind.
was it the whole board that you've replaced? or just the flex cable for the power button. can you further elaborate the steps that you've done?
So this is the item that you purchased? http://mobile.brando.com/google-nexus-one-mother-board-flex-cable-ribbon_p6193c1023d88.html
Can you confirm that the 3.5mm jack is on that board? Additionally, is that motherboard and flex cable for the AMOLED version or the SLCD version?
Do you need to remove the screen and risk getting dust inside there to swap this part?
Hi,
That's exactly the item, at that very same store. I also bought a loudspeaker as well as both back covers there. The audiojack is on board and I believe the flex cable has nothing to do with the screen type. The screen does not have to be removed.
I used those pics: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus-One-Teardown/1654/1
and this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cznogushN34&feature=player_embedded to figure out how to do it.
Basically, it's quite straight forward, given that you aren't a clumsy oaf ;-)
Remember the two rubber parts that might fall out when you pull off the mainboard assembly. (one at the bottom, for the microphon (http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/fpRmPyN6h12mtNvt.huge ,a bit to the left of the plastic tool) and one at the connector beside the sim card (http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/EOfeocuwhCRASB6M.huge , on the left part, somewhat down from the serial number sticker).
I have this probleme, but this part costs too much :S....
10. pin ON OFF way in board socket... u make jumper to on off buton
I have replace Power button for my N1. But you can reset your N1 by do'n need it. Except when you want flash rom!

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