Junsun V3 Pro (SDM450/Android 10) - RAV4 Hybrid (JBL) - No Audio Output - Android Head-Units

Hi folks,
I bought this unit a while back and still have not been able to get any audio output from it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002567795418.html
It's a V3 Pro with the SDM450, in the maximum configuration (6G+128G). It came with a RAISE CANBUS controller, so I've set it to all the various applicable vehicle choices in the factory settings and I still can't get any audio out. All connectors are plugged in, except one from the Junsun harness, which goes to nothing on the factory side. But the CANBUS cable is plugged in, so it should all be working, but still can't get audio out. I reached out to support, they suggested connecting the RCA cables from the harness to the Junsun unit's RCA AUX IN connections, but that doesn't do anything different.
Any suggestions? I feel like I may be missing a JBL specific harness or something, but everything I look up shows the same harness I have.
Best,
wtcnbrwndo4u

Related

Looking to add Sub to Atoto Head Unit

Hey guys, I'm new to installing Subs. I have the Atoto M4171 Android Head Unit. I am loving it so far, however there is no bass, so I am looking to add a sub to it. I was thinking of getting the Sound Ordnance B-8P powered sub from crutchfield. However, I have no clue how to connect the amp remote turn on wire to this unit. Looking at the wiring diagram, there isn't a wire labeled as amp remote turn on (or whatever the wire is called). Does anyone have this HU, and installed a sub with it?
Orange-Radio ANT Power
CANBUX-TX
Purple-Back Cam Control
Red-ACC
Pink Red-Steering Wheel Key1
Red Black-Steering Wheel Key2
Brown-Amplifier Control
CANBUS-RX
Yellow-B+
Those are the only non speaker wires (minus ground, ilumination, and Brake Control
Looking in the owner's manual that came with it, it has a table that lists "basic connection for function working normally" (the manual's wording, not mine) and it says External Amplifier RCA*4 (which is RCA Rear Left) + Wire Number 11 (which is the Brown Amp Control). I currently have that brown wire connected to a matching wire on the after market wiring harness that connects directly to the factory wiring harness. Should I disconnect that wire, and connect it to the Sound Ordnance's amp remote turn on wire, or should I use a different wire?
Sorry in advance if this has been asked before, I've just never installed a sub before, and would like to get specific instructions for this exact Head Unit.
barcodejames said:
Hey guys, I'm new to installing Subs. I have the Atoto M4171 Android Head Unit. I am loving it so far, however there is no bass, so I am looking to add a sub to it. I was thinking of getting the Sound Ordnance B-8P powered sub from crutchfield. However, I have no clue how to connect the amp remote turn on wire to this unit. Looking at the wiring diagram, there isn't a wire labeled as amp remote turn on (or whatever the wire is called). Does anyone have this HU, and installed a sub with it?
Orange-Radio ANT Power
CANBUX-TX
Purple-Back Cam Control
Red-ACC
Pink Red-Steering Wheel Key1
Red Black-Steering Wheel Key2
Brown-Amplifier Control
CANBUS-RX
Yellow-B+
Those are the only non speaker wires (minus ground, ilumination, and Brake Control
Looking in the owner's manual that came with it, it has a table that lists "basic connection for function working normally" (the manual's wording, not mine) and it says External Amplifier RCA*4 (which is RCA Rear Left) + Wire Number 11 (which is the Brown Amp Control). I currently have that brown wire connected to a matching wire on the after market wiring harness that connects directly to the factory wiring harness. Should I disconnect that wire, and connect it to the Sound Ordnance's amp remote turn on wire, or should I use a different wire?
Sorry in advance if this has been asked before, I've just never installed a sub before, and would like to get specific instructions for this exact Head Unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
(I use Google - how about you?)
There are several ways to get your amplifier to turn on and off remotely even if your head unit does not have a remote turn on wire. The cheap and easy way is to run the amplifier's remote terminal off of a switched accessory wire (your Red-ACC wire). This is the wire that your head unit uses. It is only powered when the key is in the accessory or run position of the ignition switch. When you shut the car off the wire loses power and the head unit and amplifier will both turn off. Your amp will be on when your car is on and off when you car is off. If you don't want the amplifier to always be on when the car is on you could wire a simple switch inline with this new remote wire. Normally you would leave it on so that it turns on when the head unit is on. But if you wanted to turn the amplifier off you could flip the switch to off which would stop the flow of 12 volts to the amplifier's remote turn on terminal.
There are also units that will sense the voltage on the head unit's speaker wires and then send a +12 volt signal to the remote wire. These units are an option for those who do not want their equipment on full time (when the ignition is on) and also don't want to wire in a switch. PAC makes some very popular ones such as the TR4 or TR7. David Navone also has an inexpensive model available that has a full amp of current output (you can add more components to it without needing an external relay).
Tap the brown wire and connect to it. It should turn on the amp. The brown wire will have +12V when the deck is on, and it's only used to flip a relay in the amp, so it will draw very little power.
11. Brown (Amplifier Control)
As dnfm says, the brown wire is what you want.
That's your amp / remote turn-on wire. It connects to your blue wire from your amp.

HU uses aux port

Hi guys, I am looking to put an android head unit into my BMW X1 (e84) and would like some thoughts/advice on the audio side of things.
TLDR; The unit requires the use of the aux port, which is low powered and too quiet - what are my alternatives?
Best I can tell all the android units for the e84 are essentially an extra side unit, as the original OEM HU stays in the car, take the following for example: AVIN BAVE84-1025 (I can't post the link as I don't have enough posts).
My only problem is the audio from the android needs to be looped through the cars aux port, which just seems wrong, as the aux port is low powered I'll never be able to get loud good quality audio through to the car speakers?
As it is at the moment, when I plug my android phone into my aux port, I turn the cars volume to maximum (including the extra aux volume) and it's still incredibly quiet. Is this because it's low powered aux, or is it my phone causing the quietness? (My phone is also turned up to max volume)
I'm worried that if I purchase one of these android units and utilise the aux port for the audio, I'll have the same volume/quality problem that I have when using my phone.
I used to have a 1 series (e87), where the android unit just hooked straight into the cars audio system, no need for utilising aux.
I have read that some people have left the aux unplugged in an F48 and the audio still worked (I'll see if I can find the thread for that) but obviously that's a newer model, so I'm not sure what's different.
I've also read a little about using a USB DAC, but I don't fully understand the process. Am I right in thinking the android device would need to be told to output audio to the USB, and the USB would then be hooked into the cars RCA audio?
At that point it's just another tablet, but with worse specs
See if connecting via bluetooth instead won't help. And try another device, maybe your phone is just being weird.
Aadieu said:
At that point it's just another tablet, but with worse specs
See if connecting via bluetooth instead won't help. And try another device, maybe your phone is just being weird.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm still running the OEM head unit at the moment (professional head unit) but it doesn't have music over Bluetooth.
I'll try another device to see if it'll go louder, but as far as I'm aware the aux port is generally quiet anyway because its low powered.
I have a small amp that I thought could probably help but I wouldnt want to put too much power through the aux port in case it blows.
I thought if I could get the android unit to use a USB DAC, I could then hook into the cars standard audio rather than a low powered aux. I'm just not sure whether it's possible to have these android units output to a USB instead. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Atoto s8 Premium Subwoofer not working

Hello guys,
I have a S8 Premium and i cant get the subwoofer to work.
So my connections are:
From the Atoto subwoofer output to the amplifier and from the amplifier to the subwoofer. A complete normal connection between radio and subwoofer.
When i connect the subwoofer to the RR/RL or FR/FL it works like a normal speaker but when i connect it to the subwoofer output like it shud be it doenst work.
I made a video trying to find the subwoofer settings and i cant find it, i have seen alot of videos where you can turn on/off the subwoofer, but in my atoto i dont have that functionality.
Can anyone help? Thanks guys!
Here is the vídeo :
AlexisGarci said:
Hello guys,
I have a S8 Premium and i cant get the subwoofer to work.
So my connections are:
From the Atoto subwoofer output to the amplifier and from the amplifier to the subwoofer. A complete normal connection between radio and subwoofer.
When i connect the subwoofer to the RR/RL or FR/FL it works like a normal speaker but when i connect it to the subwoofer output like it shud be it doenst work.
I made a video trying to find the subwoofer settings and i cant find it, i have seen alot of videos where you can turn on/off the subwoofer, but in my atoto i dont have that functionality.
Can anyone help? Thanks guys!
Here is the vídeo :
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever get this figured out? I found the sub settings but the output is very low even turned all the way up in the eq app.
@slow66
gotta get a line driver :|
https://smile.amazon.com/Peripheral-PAC-LD10-Driver-Booster/dp/B003LWV77Y
cheaper on ebay.
Amazon.com: Eightnoo RCA Male to RCA Male - Male to Male RCA Coupler Plug Adapters Connector, Pack of 5 : Electronics
Buy Eightnoo RCA Male to RCA Male - Male to Male RCA Coupler Plug Adapters Connector, Pack of 5: Connectors & Adapters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
smile.amazon.com
tap either acc or amp wire to power it
Another alternative line driver that others have used that has Front/Rear/Sub in/out
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJ2KZ63/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_MMG5JVGQ6NBM5F3S729Q
ziddey said:
@slow66
gotta get a line driver :|
https://smile.amazon.com/Peripheral-PAC-LD10-Driver-Booster/dp/B003LWV77Y
cheaper on ebay.
Amazon.com: Eightnoo RCA Male to RCA Male - Male to Male RCA Coupler Plug Adapters Connector, Pack of 5 : Electronics
Buy Eightnoo RCA Male to RCA Male - Male to Male RCA Coupler Plug Adapters Connector, Pack of 5: Connectors & Adapters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
smile.amazon.com
tap either acc or amp wire to power it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Douglas_D said:
Another alternative line driver that others have used that has Front/Rear/Sub in/out
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJ2KZ63/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_MMG5JVGQ6NBM5F3S729Q
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice, I just ordered this one to boost up my sub output:
Install Bay - Line Driver/Line Output Converter 2 Channel - Retail Pack (IBR67), Display Products https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01M0A124S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_AJGJF11KVW9Y84S2RE8Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
But I really like that 3 way one idea too hmmmm.....
The Subwoofer rca output in the manual indicates it at .5 volt. Most mid model head units deliver 3-5 volt output as you may already know. The best solution is to purchase a D.S.P or a crossover, etc. Line drivers usually have alot more than 1% THD. Most name brand types of car audio have become real affordable. I use a Rockford Fosgate 3.sixty.3 that allows voltage adjustment from 2-8 volts of output. Also make sure you use a good quality rca cable that is insulated and is OFC. I use Stinger 8000 or 9000 rca cables and Sky High triple sheilded makes a good set . They make a drastic difference . I had to buy a Y rca splitter as the sub output only has one out.
opps i forgot some links
https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SI8212-2-Channel-Audiophile-Interconnect/dp/B006AF53AG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=stinger+8000&qid=1633400565&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A0777206REMGO6K8CEOP&url=%2FPRV-PRO-Electronic-Crossover-Output%2Fdp%2FB07YCV88VY%2Fref%3Dsr_1_2_sspa%3Fdchild%3D1%26keywords%3Dcrossover%26qid%3D1633400641%26sr%3D8-2-spons%26psc%3D1%26smid%3DA2CMBKBPWFWAHW&qualifier=1633400641&id=810613280838192&widgetName=sp_atf
Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3
Programmable 8-channel digital signal processor
www.crutchfield.com
The Epicenter® by AudioControl (Black)
Bass restoration processor
www.crutchfield.com
I have the same issue. I have an S8 Standard in dash. I cannot get any "Subwoofer" output from the unit. IF I connect any 2 channels from the unit to the subs amp. It works only after I have adjusted the Bass settings in the eq. But I don't have control over the Sub sounds really. However, But if I connect the single RCA "Sub Out" from the back of the Atoto S8 unit. I get absolutely no output. So I got a T splicer and connected the single Sub Out to Both RCA inputs on the amp. Still nothing. I know its only .2v output from the head. The amps input sensitivity is .250v-6v. Its a Nakamichi NKMD60.4 4 Channel amp, Bridgeable. 1500watts max. Connected to a Polk Audio DB+ 8 Inch 750 Watt 4 Ohm DVC.
But I should hear something. The gain on the amp is maxxed out. And My amp requires two channel inputs. But the head only has 1 RCA "Sub Out". So what am I missing? Is the power from the HU not enough? Or do I need a Line Booster? Or am I missing another step I don't know about. I checked the HU Sub Settings and the frequencies are within range. But still no output from that Sub jack on the back. I have a PAC LD-10 Ground Loop Isolator Adjustable Line Driver Signal Booster+10X Preamp on order. Should be here Tuesday. Im hoping this will solve the problem. Any Ideas?
JRShreds said:
I have the same issue. I have an S8 Standard in dash. I cannot get any "Subwoofer" output from the unit. IF I connect any 2 channels from the unit to the subs amp. It works only after I have adjusted the Bass settings in the eq. But I don't have control over the Sub sounds really. However, But if I connect the single RCA "Sub Out" from the back of the Atoto S8 unit. I get absolutely no output. So I got a T splicer and connected the single Sub Out to Both RCA inputs on the amp. Still nothing. I know its only .2v output from the head. The amps input sensitivity is .250v-6v. Its a Nakamichi NKMD60.4 4 Channel amp, Bridgeable. 1500watts max. Connected to a Polk Audio DB+ 8 Inch 750 Watt 4 Ohm DVC.
But I should hear something. The gain on the amp is maxxed out. And My amp requires two channel inputs. But the head only has 1 RCA "Sub Out". So what am I missing? Is the power from the HU not enough? Or do I need a Line Booster? Or am I missing another step I don't know about. I checked the HU Sub Settings and the frequencies are within range. But still no output from that Sub jack on the back. I have a PAC LD-10 Ground Loop Isolator Adjustable Line Driver Signal Booster+10X Preamp on order. Should be here Tuesday. Im hoping this will solve the problem. Any Ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey I am in the same boat with the S8 premium, any luck with the booster? and where do you mount it by the amp? or by the head unit?

USB Microphone: Dasaita Max10

Hey, I have a Dasaita max10 head unit. It seems like my 3.5mm audio port has broken. Likely from trying out a non-Dasaita microphone. I’ve got crazy wind noise in my Jeep, so I’m trying to use a USB Asus noise cancelling mic adapter to cut out background noise.
Does anyone know if there’s a way to have the Dasaita (or generic android head unit) recognize the USB input as a microphone?
Thanks!

Andoird head unit subwoofer problem

Hi. I bought an android head unit for my megane 2.2. All the sound is good except that my subwoofer doesnt sound like with my old Alpine player. I recently bought a bigger and better subwoofer, but its still doesnt sound like it should. I tried connecting to audio R and L and it gave a little more loud bangs, but more disortion. I have 1 subwoofer rca cable, bought a Y cable for it to make that double channel but its still the same disappointing result. Can I somehow make that work like it should or cant help that with these android head units. I want to mention that i dont have a subwoofer setting on the unit.
Link : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...0d5-7736-4cad-8f17-e97911a2fefc-1&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000029501992407"%7D&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21USD%21159.26%21100.33%21%21%21%21%21%40210212c016773242106348294d0724%2112000029501992407%21sea%21RO%21926091275&curPageLogUid=NBigXtaxpApf
Hi!
If you bought this device in the link then Android DSP equalizer and output chip is to low to transfer bigger wattage to speakers.
One way to fix that is to buy external DSP output with more wattage then default android unit and connect amplifiers to this one, then reroute unit to use this external output.
If you have external subwoofer with amplifier try to decrease output to this amplifier in extra settings or factory menu (pin code) / sound. Output will usually be marked as speakers.

Categories

Resources