Related
Hi,
just another question by a lam3 user
After some day using my tytn, i noticed that the keyboard is very loose, just after locking it under the lcd.
to explain better: video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pj56htWOHEk
as you see, the keyboard is very loose just after locking it.
My device id is 640, so it is affected by some keyboard sliding problems(is a v1605)...but my question is: There is something i can do to fix this?
i tried to tighten the screws i signed here
but without significative improvement.
this is a minor issue,i think, but if i can fix it my tytn will go better in my huge hands
however, no problem if the fixing procedure involves to remove the warranty sticker up the screw, the tytn is on italy and i do not think that vodafone uk will change it
many many thanks
gtazok
The screws you've tightened are just for the housing. To make the keyboard tighter, you need to take the device apart
These 2 links explain everything you need:
http://michael-channon.spaces.live....BlogPart&_c02_owner=1&partqs=cat=Hermes+Fixes
http://www.howardforums.com/showpost.php?p=9119842&postcount=1
Good luck!
underneath your main board is 4 screws tighten those and you should be set. If not you may need to by a new housing. I hope the tighten helps though.
omg, this will really need to open all the device!
damn, there is no other way?
I couldn't really tell from your video if it is the standard loose keyboard problem you've got, but my keyboard was loose in the way that when closed it could 'fall' open pretty easily.
I used the guides above, and while it does invalidate your warranty (unless you're able to remove the warranty sticker without breaking it), it is very easy to do and put back together.
my problem is, as shown on video:
when i try to press the power button, i apply some force to my forefinger to tighten the grabbing around the phone.
when i apply this force, the upper part of the phone(the part where is the buttons of mail and iexplore) slide off the housing, and go for about 2 mm (as shown in the video).
i will like to tightnen this, to do that the phone will never slide the keyb without apply *Decent* pressure.
the keyboard,however, stay solid when fully opened, and *decent* pressure is needed to restore it from the full opening to housing closed.
was i *almost* clear? i'm very sorry but i understand that my english is a mess and really confusing, but if someone could guide me, i can do photo, pictures and so on.
thanks
gtazok
Yep, that sounds exactly the same as my problem!
The 2 links above should help, as long as you're happy to take the phone apart. If you are willing, it is pretty easy to do, but will invalidate your warranty if you still have one.
A couple of taps on the indents on the sliders with a screwdriver will make the sliders much tighter, and you can test the tightness before putting it back together.
I went a bit overboard with mine and overtightened it, but now I prefer it that way -there's no way the keyboard will slide out without some effort
StarMonkee said:
Yep, that sounds exactly the same as my problem!
The 2 links above should help, as long as you're happy to take the phone apart. If you are willing, it is pretty easy to do, but will invalidate your warranty if you still have one.
A couple of taps on the indents on the sliders with a screwdriver will make the sliders much tighter, and you can test the tightness before putting it back together.
I went a bit overboard with mine and overtightened it, but now I prefer it that way -there's no way the keyboard will slide out without some effort
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
great, that was exactly was i searched so!
but..a couple of taps...i have noticed that the indents are "stamped", there is the possibility i will break it with too much force?
and, for opening the tytn, where i can find all the needed in one pack? i live in italy, but i have no idea of what screwdriver and things must(and where)buy.
maybe there is some omnicomprensive pack that could be shipped to italy without problem.
many thanks, i appreciate much
Gtazok
The metal is quite soft in the sliders so it is possible to hit it too hard, but I don't think you're likely to do that if you start softly and keep testing the slider tightness until it's right.
The only 'special' screws are the ones holding the case in, but they can be opened pretty easily with a small flat screwdriver. From what I can remember, the screws inside the phone are just small normal screws.
gtazok said:
omg, this will really need to open all the device!
damn, there is no other way?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay If you do tighten those screws it will help that. I've seen them to be soo bad that if you tilt the device it slides open. Soo basically if you still under warranty send it to your provider other wise follow this guide.
ftp://ftp.xda-developers.com/Uploads/Hermes/Hermes_Manual_Hyins/Hermes_Service_Manual.pdf
This will guide you through the entire process of taking apart your Hermes. Good luck if you have any questions.
[email protected]
HI!!
just managed to re-close my hermes (first time i closed it without inserting the last cable LOL...i forgot it, but before powering off he comed to my mind..omg what i have risked not plugging last cable before closing??)
however, i did manage do disassembly only with a standard little screwdriver, not without problems
i just arrived to disassemble the keyb, and get rid on the rails.
I must admit that i NEVER have seen so much dust in a phone(i think mine was re-assembled from another).
i have extracted the rails, the 2, and tried to gentle tapping the indents.No way to go, i tapped *gently*(sometimes a little hard) but i really noticed no improvement
so,i thinked:
"if i change the rails, i will have a perfectly mirrored situation, with the keyboard closed it will be ok, with keyb opened it will be a little loose"
(remember, the keyb was loose when try to open it, not when to close)
So i changed the rails, switching them...
and now it's really better, the phone rarely go off his housing, closed, and go down a little more easily(but is acceptable, because i never do any "forcing" when it's open..)
maybe, with time, the opening will become a problem, with the keyb sliding to close when it's open.
However, maybe this not occour.So for now i'm happy
last thing. I noticed that on the page where the man tried to adjust the rails, he suggested
1)to tap the indents( tried, work very very little)
2)to insert pieces of ribbon
i not tried the second suggestion, because i have not understand WHERE to insert those pieces.Maybe he was suggesting to insert them at the end of the rails? where the carts block? if it is, why? i tried to pull up the small piece of "sheet"(i don't know if it's the correct term, sorry for my bad english ) on the border of the cart where it don't block, but whitout results..so inserting ribbon what improvement would have done?
thanks for the patience to read all my messed up english and many thanks
gtaz
the sliders are becoming loose as the beginning.
someone knows where to buy the sliders as a spare parts?
anyone know?
ok no way?
gtazok said:
anyone know?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take a look in this thread & mikechannon's link; if not there, then just pm / ask mikechannon...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=298784
galaxys said:
Take a look in this thread & mikechannon's link; if not there, then just pm / ask mikechannon...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=298784
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks
gtazok said:
the sliders are becoming loose as the beginning.
someone knows where to buy the sliders as a spare parts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you just need to increase those indents a bit more than you did. It is more successful to tap the indents using a small flat blade screwdriver and a small hammer. (Go easy of course and keep testing as you tap. You want a very firm click into place. You should hear the click and it should be really quite hard to move the slider over the indents using your finger tips)
The tapping technique is probably better than just pressing a screwdriver blade onto the indent. Pressing rather than tapping is likely to simply bend the entire metal strip and curve it slightly. This might improve the grip for a while but as the curve gradually straightens out again the slider will just become loose again. Using the tapping method I did mine well over a year ago and I have never had to redo it and it takes a very firm push an audibl clicks to open the device.
(Buying new sliders will not solve your problem. The vast majority, it seems to me were made withy too shallow indents. It may be worth buying new ones if the micro welds have sprung apart however)
Mike
hi
i dismantled my hermes one more time. This time i put out an hammer(a big hammer,indeed)so i "gently" hammered with a flat screwdriver the indents.
result? the keyb is now "really locked" when i open it..but the opening problem remain.
when i try to open it when it is closed, with my finger, i notice that the slipping of the upper left part(seeing the phone from the front) is EVER too loose, i reopened 2 times and tapped "not so gently" the incriminated indent, but i noticed no result. i also tried to exchange the sliders (the lower with the higher) but no improvement was done.
i think that is a defective implementation, because the "centre of pressure" is located in the upper part of the phone, so the phone is like to open more easily when it is closed. Did anyone noticed that?
however, the overall is increased, i think, about 30-40% more tighten as before, and that is no bad.
shame it has no solved my problem, but life it so bad that i can will be live happy with a little loose tytn
thanks
Gtazok
I agree that my the upper left keyboard slider has always been looser than the bottom...
good, that confirm my idea.
let us know if any other noticed the same thing.
thanks
gtazok
All phone functions work properly but sometimes when i slide the keyboard and switch to camera the screen goes green with some strange shakin lines (camera tape problem?). Does some one had same problem? Help :S
Yes check out it's push in connector.
See here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=415333
Mike
mikechannon said:
Yes check out it's push in connector.
See here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=415333
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hehe, mike is here again to save the day!
abubakar said:
hehe, mike is here again to save the day!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, abubakar
Hope that camera arrives soon. That's several days now.
Mike
i did this but camera is still not working
dvd107 said:
i did this but camera is still not working
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then unfortunately you may need a new camera. You can try pushing it on and off the contacts a few times just in case a contact is oxidised but other than a hard reset, there's not much else to try.
Mike
thanks mike for the response!
the camera worked worked for a short while but reverted back to the green stuff. any further attempts at getting it to work have been futile,
would a hard reset really be necessary?
any idea what could be the issue? (other connectors)
how much would it cost to replace and where could i get one from?
dvd107 said:
thanks mike for the response!
the camera worked worked for a short while but reverted back to the green stuff. any further attempts at getting it to work have been futile,
would a hard reset really be necessary?
any idea what could be the issue? (other connectors)
how much would it cost to replace and where could i get one from?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be honest I don't think a hard reset would work, all it would do would be to rule out any software issue.
You're best bet would be to find someone parting out a Hermes. Finding a new original part could be very difficult although you could try contacting some of the companies listed on my website www.mikechannon.net
(I do not recommend any of the listed companies - I have never dealt with any of them, I simply list a few as possibles to try).
You could try posting here to request a part from someone with a bricked phone (for example). I recently gave thw same part to a member here myself - but that was the only one I had.
Mike
Mike, just wanted to say a big thank you for all your documentation. My HTC was suffering this "green-screen" camera problem, and would sometimes work after a soft-reset, and sometimes not, before finally doing nothing but display the "green death".
After trying a ROM re-flash (and what a HUGE learning curve that was to absorb in one day!) I eventually found your post above, and with your helpful pages was able to dismantle the phone case, and re-seat the camera connector.
It took three or four "re-seats" to get it to work again, but it did the trick! And all for the cost of a £6.99 Torx set.
Much obliged!
Regards
James_UK
James_UK said:
Mike, just wanted to say a big thank you for all your documentation. My HTC was suffering this "green-screen" camera problem, and would sometimes work after a soft-reset, and sometimes not, before finally doing nothing but display the "green death".
After trying a ROM re-flash (and what a HUGE learning curve that was to absorb in one day!) I eventually found your post above, and with your helpful pages was able to dismantle the phone case, and re-seat the camera connector.
It took three or four "re-seats" to get it to work again, but it did the trick! And all for the cost of a £6.99 Torx set.
Much obliged!
Regards
James_UK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well done. Those connectors can get a little oxidised and start acting up. Glad you got it sorted (for now). That ROM flashing experience won't go amiss either
Mike
You can also use a little isopropyl alcohol and a cotton bud on the connectors to clean off any oxidation, However, don't use metho as it leaves a residue.
Works a little better than just reseating a few times, you'd be amazed at the stuff that builds up in your Hermes...
Cheers...
ultramag69 said:
You can also use a little isopropyl alcohol and a cotton bud on the connectors to clean off any oxidation, However, don't use metho as it leaves a residue.
Works a little better than just reseating a few times, you'd be amazed at the stuff that builds up in your Hermes...
Cheers...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that, Ultramag69. I've got some isopropyl alcohol, so I'll give that a try. The camera started doing the same thing again recently (clumsiness on my part, knocking the 'phone around, I expect) and it's probably worth mentioning that it's definately a connection issue, as oppose to battery / power etc., as I found squeezing the case from the front and back just above the camera lens could temporarily "fix" the problem.
Thanks again.
Regards
James_UK
russian hammer
hi all,
thx for all your tips.
i had the same greenline problem as well and read somewhere in here about the russian hammer technique.
so after i had tried all hard and soft reset and all kinds of ROM flashing, I just gave my phone a solid knock onto the back where the cam sits, while i had the green flickering screen on and HELLO! now it is clear again.
So seriously this is a connector problem, a loose contact or whatever.
so people, try the knocking first b4 you loose all that time like me
bless,
rootsmessenger
I have problems,my front keyboard no work,only work one moment.
sorry for my english.
thanks
Suggest you search on d/pad failure. There's been a lot written about buttons not working. It's probably all related to this situation:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=321163
even if you do not get a white screen.
Mike
mikechannon said:
Suggest you search on d/pad failure. There's been a lot written about buttons not working. It's probably all related to this situation:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=321163
even if you do not get a white screen.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes,recived white screens,the keyboard no work,and screen desplacement.
Thanks,thanks,thanks
Open the PDA is very complicated.
WillySonicteam said:
Yes,recived white screens,the keyboard no work,and screen desplacement.
Thanks,thanks,thanks
Open the PDA is very complicated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It isdifficult if you are not used to technical stuff. Also, you have to remember that there is NO guarantee that the things suggested in the thread I gave a link for will work. Padding the chip on the d/pad works for some but not everybody. If your problems are bad though, it MAY be worth dismantling - it's your decision.
Mike
My pda no have guarantee
The technical service is expensive?
would be the best option before unmount?
thanks
WillySonicteam said:
My pda no have guarantee
The technical service is expensive?
would be the best option before unmount?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure what service costs are where you are, but service at a repair shop would be expensive because they would like replace the the D/pad board (assuming that they can get a new board)
Providing you do not break anything when you dismantle, then if you get stuck you could always take it to a repair shop to re-assemble it. (Don't lose those tiny screws and note where each one goes) Give yourself plenty time and be gentle with the ribbon cable with the sticky tape on it (you'll see it in the manual).
Remember to line up the camera's macro lever with the back casing when you replace the back cover.
To be honest the most fiddly part for me is just getting the casing off it's lttle plastic clips after you take the four screws out. Taking the internal parts apart is delicate, but not difficult.
Mike
Finally unmount the pda, mount it all,and the screen goes blank, then I thought, "I killed my Hermes!". Unmount again, the same problem.
I reviewed the PDA pore the rear and the bolt is loose, i the part of the rear screen. Now the screen no is desplaced, the keyboard works. How can so many headaches a simple connector!
Thanks.
WillySonicteam said:
Finally unmount the pda, mount it all,and the screen goes blank, then I thought, "I killed my Hermes!". Unmount again, the same problem.
I reviewed the PDA pore the rear and the bolt is loose, i the part of the rear screen. Now the screen no is desplaced, the keyboard works. How can so many headaches a simple connector!
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some problem,the **** connector.
I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
IBNobody said:
I'm on my 3rd Epic, and this one is going back, too.
Before I send it back, I'd like to disassemble it. I think that the current problem (speakerphone returns static to whoever I talk to) is a soldering issue and may be easily debugged and fixed if I could open up the phone.
Opening up this guy is not easy.
I can remove the visible screws.
I can remove the two screws hidden under the serial number sticker / battery mat.
Even after removing these screws, I can't get the back plate off.
How do I do it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
scriz said:
Opening it voids your warranty and you will be unable to return it if your repair fails.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
IBNobody said:
It only voids your warranty if they can tell you opened it. I haven't run into any tamper-proof stickers.
So do you know how to get into it farther, or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lmao @ ====> or were you just poopoo'ing my attempt?[/QUOTE]
hilarious!
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
los1223 said:
http://www.chipworks.com/samsung-epic-4g.aspx Shows some pics of it disassembled. Maybe it will provide some insight as to how to open it, and maybe not. Better than nothing. Try searching Samsung Epic teardown and digging a little deeper than the first page.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Searched disassembly, not teardown. Thanks.
The link actually helped.
The Epic has 2 microphones?
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
Kcarpenter said:
start up at the top by the power button and use something plastic to wedge between the pieces. DONT user metal, it will scratch or break something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've found a teardown picture that illustrates the difficulty...
https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/eas/GetApplicationAttachment.html?id=1311529
The problem was the two tabs. I didn't realize how long they were.
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
arashed31 said:
There are clips where the back casing sticks to the silver band around the phone. You have to use a thin flat head to separate it. Be careful since the silver band is made of plastic and will crack if bent.
I had to take apart 2 Epics and swap out a faulty keyboard with another one before returning it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once I saw how the back cover was snapped on (wide indents that snap to the silver), I was able to remove it. I used a credit card, sliding it down from the volume button, parallel to the phone. Every so often, I'd use the card as a wedge to pry the top off. Eventually, it snapped open.
Unfortunately, I am unable to find a problem. The main microphone works. It just doesn't work in speakerphone mode.
Oh well... I'm on my 4th Epic. I'm holding off on returning them to Amazon. I'll have 3 of 'em sitting around in case I need to make a FrankenEpic.
Do you see any way to tighten the screen slider?
Sent from my SPH-D700 using XDA App
Hey, if/while you're still in there... do you see a MLF-type chip (these are the ones that look like a plastic box with no visible pins because the metal pads are entirely on the underside) that's approximately 3mm x 4mm that has something like "FSA 9480" (or just "9480", or even "Fairchild") written on it? Probably near the USB port? I've read about its existence inside the Epic (and all Galaxy S models), and it seems to be getting enumerated by the kernel during bootup, but I didn't see any actual chip bearing the name in any teardown pics I've looked at. I'm starting to suspect that the "9480" *might* just be IP that Samsung licensed from Fairchild and incorporated into one of their own ASICs (with "9480" being the "IP name" of the chip Fairchild sells as the 9280), but it's really hard to tell.
For anyone who didn't see my other post, or the thread in the I9000 board, the FSA9480 is a USB switch that enables the USB port's two data pins to be repurposed for a) serial UART Txd and Rxd, b) Stereo audio left and right out, c) mono headset with audio out and mic in, and d) JTAG via a special interface called "JIG" that's kind of like Atmel's Debugwire and serializes the various pins of a JTAG interface. It's not actually using USB... it electronically disconnects the two pins from the USB interface, and connects them to the audio/uart/JIG pins elsewhere inside the phone.
Also, if you can see anything that resembles a manufacturer or part number for the USB port, that would be awesome. I know that someone, somewhere HAS to make them, but trying to find nonstandard, offbeat connectors in the millions of items sold by companies like Digikey, Arrow, Avnet, Mouser, etc. is like looking for a needle in a haystack unless you already know the exact part number you're looking for.
didnt really llook too hard, but i didnt see any
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
Yes its rather easy you take off the back cover use something like a guitar pick to pop the back snaps apart then from there undo the connections to the main board remove it a few more screws under the sticker and one under the main board i think there is a ribbon cable you have to be genital with they rip really easy also make sure its put back the way it needs to be.. when replacing the screen there are tear down guides all over the new that show it in detail...
Edit: Found a Video for you... http://satmedia.co.uk/sprint-samsung-epic-4g-galaxy-s-sph-d700-take-apart-tear-down-video-mpg/
Chabsin said:
How difficult is it to replace the entire screen/lcd? Is it possible to easily remove the entire top off the slider and replace it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pry bar and hammer should do it!
Sent from my '' Bag Phone ''
Lately my lumia 525 has been bricked..And my pc cannot fild it when i am connecting through usb.. What should I do?
mattschwantes said:
Sometimes it is just a dead battery. Verify in Device Manager that absolutely nothing appears/disappears when you connect/disconnect the cable to the device. Sometimes it appears in ports, sometimes HID or Keyboards.
If nothing at all appears, and your battery is good, then your only hope is R3209 trick. That should only be done by someone who is comfortable working with the circuit board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is R3209 trick? Can you explain me?
mattschwantes said:
Sometimes it is just a dead battery. Verify in Device Manager that absolutely nothing appears/disappears when you connect/disconnect the cable to the device. Sometimes it appears in ports, sometimes HID or Keyboards.
If nothing at all appears, and your battery is good, then your only hope is R3209 trick. That should only be done by someone who is comfortable working with the circuit board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you talking about connecting usb by soldering some weirs inside the logic board?
mattschwantes said:
The process is described here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/wi...indows-phone-internals-unlock-t3257483/page79
There is no soldering involved but do be careful. I already killed one device doing it this way, but I have also saved several this way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay but can you tell me a fresh location of GND in the logic board?
mattschwantes said:
The process is described here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/wi...indows-phone-internals-unlock-t3257483/page79
There is no soldering involved but do be careful. I already killed one device doing it this way, but I have also saved several this way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And which side of the register i should connect with gnd?
mattschwantes said:
as i said, short the resistor. after that, it doesn't matter which side you connect to GND.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot mate, I'll give it a try tomorrow ??
mattschwantes said:
Good luck. Just be careful prying the cover up above the resistor. those surface-mount components are very small and some are quite close to the edge of the cover. no need to fully remove the cover, you can just pry up the side/corner you need to access.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your advice ?
mattschwantes said:
Good luck. Just be careful prying the cover up above the resistor. those surface-mount components are very small and some are quite close to the edge of the cover. no need to fully remove the cover, you can just pry up the side/corner you need to access.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry for my late reply... phone had connected successfully. and did everything he told. i did all things successfully, still it doesn't boot up.
mattschwantes said:
That would not make it boot. It would allow the phone to be detectable by Windows device manager and allow you to restore the bootloader using Wpinternals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, but it didn't work for me. i pushed the bootloader. but still it is dead not finding by usb unless i connect the resistor with GND