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I currently own a symbian based phone...(nokia 6600)..I want to buy a tytn..Jus got to play with 1 for a few minutes and I fell in love with it..Jus a few questions..Is the change worth?Or do i go for a nokia?Does it crash often?Is it fragile?Is the windows mobile platform instable?And finally, is there a risk of my getting screen alignment problem?Thanks.
luke1708 said:
I currently own a symbian based phone...(nokia 6600)..I want to buy a tytn..Jus got to play with 1 for a few minutes and I fell in love with it..Jus a few questions..Is the change worth?Or do i go for a nokia?Does it crash often?Is it fragile?Is the windows mobile platform instable?And finally, is there a risk of my getting screen alignment problem?Thanks.
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Click to collapse
Depends what kind of person you are!!
Does it crash often - can do depends what you put on it and whether you want to spend a bit (maybe quite a bit) of time tweaking it here and there - maybe nipping into registry to make a change or two to suit you. (I have mine pretty stable now - no soft reset for around 3 weeks or so though it takes effort to get it to this state.)
It is fun, you learn to love it and it's little faults most of which have some work around. If you like spending time basically playing around with the look / feel and function of this kind of device I say change to it.
If you expect something out of the box with little to do except stick applications on it, and you would get bored fiddling around with this and that setting, then stay away from it.
The screen alignment issue is far less prevalent than in the earlier models. But there are still one or two around. If buying from a shop check that the keyboard has a firm slide and click into position when both open and closed (some can be a bit loose) If (big if) they let you stick battery in and power up, check each keyboard key using say WORD to ensure non of them need too firm a press to get the letter to come up.
Finally I'd say if you intend the device as a more or less purely business machine then probably I'd settle for a lower spec and possibly more stable device. But if you are something of an experimenter and like a broad range of fairly high spec possibilities and enjoy the challenge of this kind of thing then it's for you.
Mike
Thanks.The reason for my buying the hermes is because i have to submit 2 big computer projects at the end of this year,at college.I wil there4 b using the word mobile when i get ideas.I wil not install many other programs.Btw,Is there a program for the hermes which enables me to run vb6 programs created on my pc,on hermes?And which one is more stable?The hermes,wizard or eten glofish m700?Thanks
First off, I want to say that Plato56 was the first person to try this, and I want to give all credit where credit is due. Several others have applied this method, including myself, with great results. I apologize for not knowing everyone and I apologize if any of this is not clear. Please let me know and I will clarify the best I can and update this original post.
Ok, the other thread found here is close but the wrong contacts are circled. I've uploaded several pics to reference as you read through this post. The first pic has the correct contacts circled. The contacts circled in the other thread are for the cellular radio.
So What's The Deal With The GPS on my SGS!?
Essentially, the problem is two fold.
Problem #1: Samsung has no clue how to put out decent firmware.
Problem #2: The copper contact that Samsung chose to connect the GPS Receiver to the GPS Antenna is about the crappiest selection they could have possibly made.
THE PURPOSE OF THIS THREAD IS TO ADDRESS PROBLEM #2. If we address and solve one then we can (hopefully) tackle the other effectively one day. Here is a technical, but relatively easy to understand explanation of why Firmware alone can't fix the GPS problems that plague ALL SGS phones (even if your GPS is "fine" it still has weak SNR Numbers)
Explanation (Courtesy of T313C0mun1s7):
Q) Is it hardware?
A) It's complicated. We are talking about very high frequency RF here, you gotta understand how electricity acts when you reach these frequencies to fully get this, but I will summarize. At zero hertz or DC current electricity flows through the body or center of the conductor. As long as you have enough conductor to carry the required current you are good. So the type of spring contact they used is fine for DC, in fact I went looking for replacement contacts and the only thing I can find are designed for either battery tabs or for grounding contacts. As you go higher in frequency the AC current of electricity takes on what we call skin effect, it travels as waves around the surface of the conductor. For this reason large diameter, low loss coax usually has a hollow center conductor. It make no difference electrically and makes it more flexible, lighter, and less expensive because it saves copper. Connections have to be solid and shielded because the RF can "leak", noise can be introduced, and the conductor should be tuned to the frequency carried. In short, these spring connectors are about as bad a connection as you could have picked. It is not enough that they touch the pad, you need good solid contact for a good transfer with the skin effect and to minimize loss. It seems that this problem is exasperated by poor contact. This fix it to simply improve the contact by increasing the pressure and hope to minimize the ill effects of this poor choice of contact design. To complicate things there are in fact things that can be done in software to improve the situation - this made trouble shooting harder because people tend to see these things as black and white and therefore either hardware OR software. If you want to know how software can affect this, then you will need to read back through the thread as I have already explained it twice and this answer is already too long.
Q) Should I ever expect a fix?
A) Read the OP. It was "fixed" (ie they improved the connection, but they did not re-engineer a proper fix) already. It seems if it was made in September there is a good chance it is ok or marginal. If it was made (or possibly re-manufactured?) in October it seems they are at least as good as the fix we are applying in this thread. Either they are using better contacts or they are increasing the angle to apply more pressure.
Q) Will T-mobile replace it?
A) They recognize the problem. This is what the app Samsung released is for. It resets everything to the stock settings (and nothing else). If you use it and can show unacceptable performance with the GPS (via the measurements the app makes - it is the official guide replacement), then they should replace the phone for you without any fight.
Now that you know why you should consider applying the hardware fix to your SGS, read on to determine if it may actually help your situation. I.E. does your unit's manufacture date and/or modem make this modification worth your time?
Prerequisites (Courtesy of T313C0mun1s7)
If you don't yet have at least JI6 then you need to be at least at that modem level FIRST. If you are already using the JI6 (or newer) modem and your GPS still sucks AND your phone was manufactured prior to October, then try this. Otherwise don't expect results. To determine your manufacture date, look on the box. If you no longer have the box, then look under the battery. The middle line has the serial number marked with a S/N. To the right of that will be a set of numbers with a period in the middle. It is month and year in European format, so 10.09 would be September of 2010.
To summarize:
* Phone made in October 2010 or after - this should not be needed
* You have not upgraded to at LEAST JI6 - then do that FIRST
Steps To Apply The Hardware Fix:
NOTE THAT THIS TECHNICALLY VOIDS YOUR WARRANTY especially if you choose the alternate method that involves a soldering iron
However, there is nothing noted on the phone that says if you remove this or go beyond that your warranty is voided.
Also, as goes without saying, don't blame me if you snap your GPS Antenna Contact off, break your plastics, or lose the ability to procreate!!!
* Turn off your GPS and shut down.
* Remove the back of your SGS and take out your battery, SIM Card and MicroSD Card.
* Remove the 7 screws that hold the back plastics. All you need is a Philips Head screwdriver from any jeweler's kit or glasses repair kit (you can get one from CVS/Wal-Mart, etc). Here is a video that shows you how to open up your phone. Take your time with this. I know it seems unsettling at first, but everything will be OK as long as you take your time and use a little common sense!
Be sure to watch for three small things after you get the back off. If you aren't careful, all three will sprout legs and run away :
1) Volume Rocker
2) Power Rocker
3) A little round plastic circle next to the lower right of your SIM Card slot that may fall out
* Refer to the 3rd and 4th pictures I uploaded (courtesy of androidmonkey). These photos depict the CORRECT CONTACT to gently bend up. The 4th photo depicts the position your contact should be in. You'll probably find that yours is laying flatter and thus isn't making contact with the GPS Antenna (which is on the plastic backing that you removed). As I said a second ago, gently bend this contact up. I used a flathead screwdriver from a glasses repair kit. It doesn't take much bend this contact. I started from the side that the fourth photo depicts. After I got the contact up a bit, I moved my screwdriver over 90* where the hump is and pried a little more. That's it! It's really simple. Just don't go happy with your bending. I have no experience replacing a snapped piece of copper so I can't be of any help if you destroy yours.
* Button everything back up. The back plastic will pop back in 10000% easier than it came off. Put the screws back in, pop your SIM and MicroSD back in and your battery. When you boot back up, you might wanna clear your GPS settings just for the heck of it. I did. DO NOT be shocked if it takes a few minutes to get a lock. It's probably the first time your SGS has ever had a real chance at a lock. Subsequent locks (Hot and Cold Start) will be faster.
* Boot up, leave your GPS off. Just because it can't hurt, clear your GPS settings. Here's how:
1) Download this app http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=775154
You can find it by searching for "sgstools" in the market. Click on Secret Codes then Lbstestmode. At the bottom you'll see "Delete GPS Data". Just click that!
OR
2) Open your dialer and hit *#*#1472365#*#*
Click "Delete GPS Data".
* Turn your GPS on. Wait for a lock! If you want to know what's going on, download two apps:
"GPS Status & Toolbox" by EclipSim
and
"GPS Test" by Chartcross Limited
That's it!
ALTERNATE METHOD - ADDING SOLDER TO YOUR GPS CONTACT
*WARNING* As I mentioned earlier IF YOU CHOOSE THIS METHOD THERE IS ZERO CHANCE OF YOUR PHONE REMAINING UNDER WARRANTY *WARNING*
If you feel inclined to modify your phone in a much more permanent way, you can opt to add some solder on top of the contact (no need to bend the contact up, in fact, don't). I attached a zip with some pics that show what two posters, regp and Mannymal did. I've soldered a few things in the past, but I'm by no means an expert. If you choose to do this, a few things to remember.
* First, seriously consider avoiding this if you have no experience with a soldering iron. In what I've seen on a limited base, you'll get minimal SNR gain in return for the effort that goes into this. I can't emphasis this enough.
* There are probably a 100 tutorials on how to solder floating around on YouTube, watch them (all).
* The absolute largest diameter solder I would use is .022.
* Find the smallest tip possible.
* Heat the CONTACT with your soldering iron, not your solder, or you will create what is called a cold solder joint that will probably lead to your GPS not working at all on down the road. You have to get the contact hot enough to receive the solder, which is touched to the part (in our case, the contact) that you want to apply the solder to.
* Be careful not to make your solder to high. I suggest looking at the photo that shows the angle of the contact after it's been raised and using that as your benchmark. We want to make contact with the GPS Antenna, not break the thing when we snap the back plastic on.
* If you end up with two much solder you can either clean the tip of your soldering iron and touch the hot tip to the solder to remove some or you can use an emery board to file it down.
* Use an small emery board (nail file essentially) to file down and smooth off your joint. I suggest doing this holding the phone upside down so you don't end up with 1000 tiny solder particles floating around your phone.
* REMEMBER, phones are tiny. These boards are tiny. A soldering iron that is too hot left on ANY board for too long will destroy it. Multiply this rule x10 for delicate parts.
Good luck.
Observable Data Changes
(Grabbed from this thread after several days of playing with this fix).
Accuracy: 16-28 feet stationary 38-50 feet moving (moving accuracy has improved and is now on par with stationary numbers since I started running the Stock JL4 Rom)
Average SNR: 22-35. Obviously you'll always have one or two that are lower and one or two higher. My max I've observed was 42.
Number of Sats Locked/In View: 8/11 most of the time. Yesterday afternoon I was locked on 10/10 with a 22 foot accuracy inside. I've had 11/14 before as well, just depends on the time of day.
Cold Start Lock: 30 seconds
Hot Start Lock: 5-15 seconds
For reference, my Garmin Nuvi is currently connected to 7/10 with a 16-18 foot accuracy and my Vibrant is connected to 7/10 with a 21-25 foot accuracy. (stationary of course)
Unnecessary re-routing: No
Wandering on Google Nav/Lost Signal with Nav: Very rarely. For me it happens when I lose signal which is only if the phone is resting on my jeans. If it's in my cupholder, center console, hand, etc it's fine. Earlier today I lost signal with it in my cupholder but I was traveling in an area where my Garmin Nuvi only had a connection to 5 satellites.
My Tracks: No data from me yet
There are some after screen shots in this post.
Other notes: I'm on the road a lot. Today is my first day to really extensively test it. Basically, it's MUCH better. Is it perfect? No, but I will say that unlike these other fixes that involve changes in lbstestmode and reset apps that only last for a couple of hours at best, my GPS performance has been very consistent ever since I adjusted the antenna contact. Is it as good as my old Blackberries with signal strength? No. How does it compare to other Android devices? I have no clue.
What I do know is that it works well enough for me to be comfortable not having to grab my Nuvi everytime I switch vehicles.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrap Up
I hope this works for those of you like me that have tried almost every firmware update, tweak, etc. Between this fix and JL4, all I can say is that this device is probably as near to perfect as it'll ever be. I've been running this fix for well over a week and I've experienced no signs of the modified contact losing it's contact with the antenna.
If You Still Have Problems
* Even though you used the Samsung GPS Restore App (Found in the market for Vibrant/Captivate only)
* Even though you deleted GPS Data
* Even though you have your WiFi Off like Plato56 recommends in this post
* Even if you tried a full system wipe
Don't panic if you don't have a ton of locks. Like mentioned above, there is still a firmware component to this issue. I see times where mine doesn't want to lock. Usually if I turn GPS off and then turn it back on it runs smoothly from there on out. Depending on where you live, time of day may make a difference. Inevitably, in the afternoons I may only get 6 of 11 locked on. All other times I can get 9-11 of 11 or 11 of 14, etc. Bear with it. This fix is NOT a silver bullet, but give it a day or two of reasonable playing time to determine if it helped.
For example, right now I'm indoors locked on 7/11 with a 21 foot accuracy and SNR's averaging 31. I used to see 0/3 with SNR's averaging 29. That's a definite improvement. If any other Android was in the same position it would probably show 8/11 with a 10 foot accuracy and SNR's averaging over 65.
So take it for what it's worth, but the fix is DEFINITELY worth the effort!
ADDITIONAL TWEAK
Check out this thread here and read through the OP carefully. A few days ago I flashed "S.gps.zip" and I've had great results with it on Bionix 1.3.1 with the KA7 modem. I didn't see an increase in accuracy, but I did see a HUGE improvement on the speed my GPS locked and the number of birds locked too. I played around with all of the 2.2 modems last night and they all saw improved results.
If you decide to flash one of those zips, I recommend making a Nandroid backup first. In reading through the thread it appears that there are a few people that had their flashes result in broken GPS's. I have no idea why, I'd imagine it's because they didn't clear GPS data and they just think it's broken. I recommend making a backup, shutting off your GPS, booting into CWM, flashing the zip, rebooting, clearing GPS data, turning your GPS on and enjoying locks. And, as always, I recommend using GPS Test by Mike Lockwood to test your GPS every time you make a change.
The Super GPS should work on any ROM on an Vibrant, but it looks like a lot of people have tried it on 2.2 ROMS so be aware that, as always, there's the chance you may brick your device. If it works for you, be sure to thank jellette for his work. As always, I take no responsibility if this messes up your phone. I'm just relaying what worked for me.
UPDATE: 7/31/11
I should have posted this a couple of months ago. I also have a theory about why sometimes this fix fails over time. For example, I run Overstock 2.4.1 and I often flash the S.gps2.zip when I redo my system. It's been a fantastic combo on Bionix 1.3.1, but often, after a few weeks my GPS begins to turn retarded and will eventually no longer lock. In the past I've always believed it's purely because the antenna contacts have started to relax. However, what I've discovered is that when I go back into CWM and reflash my kernel and reflash the GPS zip, everything is happy and perfect again. I'm by no means a hardware genius or a developer. I'm just an average end user that loves to tinker with things and be methodical in testing, but I'm starting to believe that there truly is something going on that corrupts our GPS Drivers over time (in reference back to how we know Samsung screwed the pooch on firmware for the GPS Receiver).
So, that said, before you crack your phone open over and over yanking and bending on contacts, reflash your kernel and the GPS Zip of your choice. And, like I've always said before, if the hardware fix doesn't seem to work for you when it seems to work for others on the same ROM as you, try another kernel, and try it more than once. I still fully believe that every GPS Receiver on every SGS can be made usable. It's not perfect, but it's a strong improvement from not being able to obtain a lock. http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=16026963&postcount=12
Q&A
This thread is getting long so I am creating this Q&A post to answer many of the most common questions.
Due credits go to those that originally asked and answered these questions. Obviously this thread is the result of the efforts of many people.
Q) Is it a hardware issue? Why do different ROMs / Modems effect this?
A) It's complicated. We are talking about very high frequency RF here, you gotta understand how electricity acts when you reach these frequencies to fully get this, but I will summarize. At zero hertz or DC current electricity flows through the body or center of the conductor. As long as you have enough conductor to carry the required current you are good. So the type of spring contact they used is fine for DC, in fact I went looking for replacement contacts and the only thing I can find are designed for either battery tabs or for grounding contacts. As you go higher in frequency the AC current of electricity takes on what we call skin effect, it travels as waves around the surface of the conductor. For this reason large diameter, low loss coax usually has a hollow center conductor. It make no difference electrically and makes it more flexible, lighter, and less expensive because it saves copper. Connections have to be solid and shielded because the RF can "leak", noise can be introduced, and the conductor should be tuned to the frequency carried. In short, these spring connectors are about as bad a connection as you could have picked. It is not enough that they touch the pad, you need good solid contact for a good transfer with the skin effect and to minimize loss. It seems that this problem is exasperated by poor contact. This fix it to simply improve the contact by increasing the pressure and hope to minimize the ill effects of this poor choice of contact design. To complicate things there are in fact things that can be done in software to improve the situation - this made trouble shooting harder because people tend to see these things as black and white and therefore either hardware OR software. If you want to know how software can affect this, then you will need to read back through the thread as I have already explained it twice and this answer is already too long.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) Should I try this fix?
A) Only if you can not get your phone replaced under warranty. If you can not and meet the prerequisites in the OP, then you are a good candidate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) How do I update to JI6? In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
A) Yes, JL1 is more recent than JI6. The nomenclature uses lexicograpical unicode values.
1. Check the first unit. The first unit in JI6 and JL1 are both 'J', so look at the next unit.
2. 'I' in the former, 'L' in the latter. 'L' comes after 'I' in the alphabet, so it's more recent.
3. You can stop here, because you've already determined that JL* is more recent than JI*. Any units that come after this are to distinguish within the L- or I-series.
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Click to collapse
Q) How do I reset the GPS setting?
A) Open your dialer and hit *#*#1472365#*#* or maybe *#3214789650# (I need clarification on these)
OR
The Samsung GPS Restore app (APK attached to this post)
OR
Since the Feburary 2nd, 2011 Market update you can find it here https://market.android.com/details?id=com.sec.samsung.GpsRestore
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Click to collapse
Q) Should we assume that any phone manufactured before 10/10 has these problems?
A) No, I would not think so. Something like this is usually a intermittent manufacturing flaw and would not affect everyone or there would be an even larger outrage about it.
Look at it this way. The spring contacts were designed to make contact without too much pressure when the back is properly in place. GOOD engineering would have accounted for slight variations in manufacturing and quality control and would have made the spring contacts overshoot the required distance a little to assure 100% contact in all situations. In this case I think they forgot to account for that and designed them to just touch, invariably some make intermittent contact and some fall just short of good solid contact (there are prior posts about how poor contact can get worse over time due to oxidation and arcing), but at least we have no reports of totally non-working GPS where they would have failed to touch outright. Chances are when October came around one of two things happened.
They decided to fix the issue and reenginerred the design to make better contact
The manufacturer ran out of the old contacts the the new shipment just work better
Either way, although this is a common issue, I don't see the evidence that it affected all pre-October phones.
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Click to collapse
Q) Any hints on how to get the back off after removing the screws? I watched the YouTube video, but I'm not having any luck with my normal sized fingernails.
A) It is very stubborn, the most important tool you have is patience. Just take your time. If you really need more than just you fingers here are some other options.
Set of Safe Open Pry Tools - http://www.repairsuniverse.com/prytools.html
Thinner than credit card type cards such as a Bi-Mart membership card, plastic business cards that are 1/2 thickness of a credit card, laminated ID badge, old Subway rewards card.
Guitar Pick
The plastic from a clear "clam shell" type package that everything seems to come in now. You know, the ones that seem impossible to open.
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Click to collapse
Q) CRAP!!! I BROKE MY TAB (This question covers Soldering)
A) Relax, take three deep breaths, all is not lost.
What you want to do is replace the tab with a small mound of solder to bridge the space between the boards and create a contact so the two pads touch. You want a decent amount of surface to touch and you want it flat for the best contact. You need the mound smooth and round because you are working with high frequency signals. Follow the instructions below carefully. If you need more details they are in this thread.
1) If you are experienced in soldering most will be second nature to you except for the fact that you are not actually soldering anything to anything, you are just making a mound on a pad. If you are not experienced then the first step is to WATCH THESE VIDEOS (A) and (B) then PRACTICE until you are proficient in the basics of heating, soldering, and removing the iron cleanly leaving a good joint.
2) Read this comic book (trust me) --> http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_20110409.pdf
3) Now if you are confident that you are ready to actually touch a hot soldering iron to the inside of your phone lets continue.
De-solder the old broken contact from the pad using the soldering iron and either some wick or a solder-sucker (you can also use a cheap rubber bulb, but they rarely work well)
Use the soldering iron and wick or solder-sucker to remove any remaining solder from the pad. It can still be silver, but should be flat.
Realizing that you will remove a little solder with the iron when you pull it away, make a small, smooth, shiny, and round mound of solder on the lower pad just a little taller then you need for good contact.
It is important in this step to not leave any metal filing behind on the board or it might short something out. So do this step holding the phone upside-down so they fall away. File the top of the mound with an emery board so you have a flat spot parallel with the pad. Don't file too much at first.
Check the height of the mound by puting the top board back on. If needed file a little more and recheck. Go slow, don't try to take too much off at once. When the hight is right it should just barely be too tall. You want good solid contact, but you do not want the board to be stressed or bend.
If all looks good check again for hidden shavings and blow it off real good just to make sure.
If you mess up at any point just de-solder the pad and try again.
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Q) What are people's setting in LBSTestMode?
A) Factory Defaults - an earlier question covered how to get back there
Click to expand...
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Q) Will this work with the GT-I9000 or the Captivate?
A) Most likely, yes. We have even had some people with those phones report back with positive results.
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Click to collapse
Q) I did this hardware fix, but I am still losing locks. Now what?
A) Here is what the OFA (Original Fix Artist) Plato56 has to say:
1. Before anything else, make shure your WiFI radio is OFF. I dont mean not connected, I don't mean out of range, I mean hardware swiched off threw your settings or via the drop down status bar.
2. Use the Samsung GPS restore to get you LBS settings to default.
3. Update your modem to one of the 2.2 versions. Im particularly happy with JL4 modem myself
4. Learn to use ODIN!!!! Use this to reload your firmware of choice. Prior to flashing you favorate ROM, Always flash back to JDF (BONE STOCK FIRMWARE).
5. If you dont know what im talking about in 4, then go to the developers section and read, read, read.
6. If you have any other questions refer to sujection 1 first, then ask. Honistly, alot of people have put some work into verifing if this fix works and testing with various software, the least you can do is read this body of work and you just might end up with a working GPS.
7. My last tip of the day. Be patent with your first locks, the GPS does improve the more data it collects. This also means dont delete your GPS data unless you changed modems or are having real lock and or accuracy issues
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Click to collapse
Q) Does this fix drift?
A) There have been a couple that have mentioned that it does fix the drift, but I think there may have been others that say they get better locks but still get some drift. I do believe though that everyone who has done the driving test with it has reported that it tracks better now and actually shows them on the correct roads, where before it didn't.
Click to expand...
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Q) What are the other contacts?
A) Opposite side is Wi-Fi, bottom is cellular.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) OK, so I can bend it up, or replace it with a bit of solder. Is that all?
A) Of course not. Some like to stick a little piece of plastic under the tab rather than try to bend it. Just a little sliver about as wide as the contact cut off a credit card should work. Your Mileage may vary, in my mind if you drop the phone that plastic is gonna be floating around in there somewhere.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Q) So inside I see. . .
A) Stop! go outside. GPS was not designed to help you get from your bathroom to your kitchen. GPS signals are low power signals that have to travel all the way from an orbital satellite. Low frequencies penetrate well, and bend around objects, but they require a lot of power to transmit over distance. High frequencies travel much further with less power and remains in a fairly strait line, but it does not penetrate very well. Guess what GPS uses. So don't make it try to penetrate your roof.
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Q) So there are two apps listed to test GPS and . . .
A) I've noticed a big difference between the two apps called "GPS Test". Try using the one written by Mike Lockwood (he's on the Google GPS team).
http://www.androlib.com/android.appl...stest-qjx.aspx
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AND FINALLY
Q) What does tonight taste like?
A) Tonight tastes like chinese food and whiskey with coconut water
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Click to collapse
A final note about satellites and tracking said hunks of orbital equipment
I have noticed a lot of people are wanting to compare signal levels. This is fine on a superficial level, and there should be some level of consistency as long as you live on roughly the same latitude as the person you are comparing with. As Einstein said - everything is relative. With that in mind I thought I would share a post I made in another thread. There is cool stuff in here - so check it out.
T313C0mun1s7 said:
Another thing that you have to realize is that the satellites themselves are a variable. The only way to make a satellite stationary is to put it into orbit directly on the equator, falling at the exact same rate the earth spins, and in the same direction. Even at that there is still a little wobble in a figure 8 pattern.
So GPS sats are anything but stationary, but they are flying at great speeds overhead coming in and out of view by their own rite at any time. At the speeds they fly the distances to you change by the mile rather quickly. So it should be no surprise that doing your testing repeatedly will never yield the same results twice. There are also a lot of other factors involved as well.
The point is that you are now getting very acceptable and usable results from your GPS consistently, even if you never get anything as great as your first time. Maybe you will get those strong of signals again, but even if you don't you seems to be an par with what the majority of people have reported so far.
FYI - If you would like to see some real time tracking of GPS sats that you should be able to see (THIS IS REALLY COOL) go to http://www.n2yo.com and click the GPS link at the top of the page. It will load a page of sats that are visible from your location. Click the select all box and then click the track selected satellites button. It will load a world map with the orbital paths of the sats, then the sats themselves. You can watch them move and even select them for more information on each satellite. This is not limited to GPS satellites if you want to keep playing with it. The point is that if you watch it for a little bit you can see pretty quickly as they move relative to the world map they are on just how many miles (or kilos) they cover in a fairly short time.
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Great Post
I have been looking for this information everywhere. I cannot wait until I try this. Thank you^^
How do I update to JI6? i'm running Macnut 14 rom with the Super_IO kernel.
In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
This might be a stupid question, but how do you tell the manufacture date of the phone. My box just has a date on it (but doesn't say what that date is for), which is 08/10/2010. Is this it?
salvador3 said:
How do I update to JI6? i'm running Macnut 14 rom with the Super_IO kernel.
In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, JL1 is more recent than JI6. The nomenclature uses lexicograpical unicode values.
1. Check the first unit. The first unit in JI6 and JL1 are both 'J', so look at the next unit.
2. 'I' in the former, 'L' in the latter. 'L' comes after 'I' in the alphabet, so it's more recent.
3. You can stop here, because you've already determined that JL* is more recent than JI*. Any units that come after this are to distinguish within the L- or I-series.
Just gently bent my piece of metal up. Giving it 10 min to find satellites and will edit this post to report.
EDIT: HOLY CRAPOLA! In the time it took me to write this post, I got 11 satellites on a cold start, MS based, with supl.google.com. I'm going to keep it on hot start now that it's got some locks. I've never run a GPS test at my current location (indoors too!), but I usually got 1 or 2 about 30 miles south of here (outdoors). I can't verify that it's the alteration that helped, but my GPS is definitely better now. Much thanks to OP.
RE-EDIT: Huh, this is weird. I tried to exit out of app but it froze. Waited a minute and it exited out, but without the expected transition animation. Tried to open it again, but the GPS icon in the notification bar wasn't flashing so I rebooted. Now I don't get any satellites with the same settings as before. A couple reboots later, everything is going according to plan.
salvador3 said:
How do I update to JI6? i'm running Macnut 14 rom with the Super_IO kernel.
In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If ur running a 2.2 ROM u are past JI6....
Sent from my Vibrant w/ Onyx 4.2 Overkill.....
Hung0702 said:
RE-EDIT: Huh, this is weird. I tried to exit out of app but it froze. Waited a minute and it exited out, but without the expected transition animation. Tried to open it again, but the GPS icon in the notification bar wasn't flashing so I rebooted. Now I don't get any satellites with the same settings as before.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, relax, I found that this is not that unusual depending on what ROM / Modem and settings your using. It happend to me with JK2 stock and and stock modem. If your running one of the 2.2 builds update your modem to JL4 or JL1. Also i have found that reseting the GPS data can help after you change modems. Before geting into the unit again, i would recoment clearing your gps data and reverting to STOCK gps setings. MS mode does in some cases make locks look faster, but a weak network connect can cause problems. This is actualy why, i think, that Samsung is using standalone mode as it saves the bird info better. Im not shure about this but for me STOCK GPS SETTINGS WORK!!! Try them before opening up the phone a 2nd time.
As long as you've done the mod correctly and have good contact, you should be in better shape. There is the possablity that you did not bend the contact high enough and it settled back in. DONT OVER BEND but maby just a hair more. Also, dont forget to clean the contacts with a mild solvent as a weak contact will cause oxidation . I use a q-tip and alcohol. Dont use tunner cleaner, i tried this and being non conductinve, i had a problem at for a bit.
Remember, this is also a software issue so dont panic if you do the mod, get good results and then things change. Here is my curent configuration for reference.
Macnut 13
JL4 modem
STOCK GPS SETTINGS
Rom was loaded from a CLEAN Oden version of JFD with eveything formated etc..
Im locking with 8-11 birds out of 13 visable in under 15 seconds with accuracy that under 20ft standing still and 25-35 in a moving car. There are times that things will get a bit worse, but by compairing those times to my Garmin, I beleave this a result of the GPS network or other enviromental issues. I DO have "use wireless networks" as it seams to reduce GPS wander on the JL1 modem , at least in my area. Without it on I get an occational jump but it always finds it way back to good in a very short time. It up to you if you want to use it, its not nessasay, but sometimes helps.
To everyone who might suggest that I'm just one of the lucky one.. When I got this phone, I could not lock on ANYTHING. I could see a few birds, hit some sometimes, get a lock after 5 minutes and lose after the phone went into lock mode etc... you know, all the problems that eveyone else has. Now with the contact mod and updated modems, the results are better than an iPhone and rival my Garmin stand alone GPS.
salvador3 said:
How do I update to JI6? i'm running Macnut 14 rom with the Super_IO kernel.
In the release notes of the Super_IO kernel, it mentions it has the UVJL1 modem. is this more recent than JI6??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your fine, your current config is good, My advice, just update to the JL4 modem.
How do I reset the GPS setting?
Stick Thread!
How do I reset the GPS setting?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The most dummy proof way (not that your dumb, I just like simple solutions) is to download this app http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=775154
Click on Secret Codes then Lbstestmode. At the bottom you'll see "gps reset". Just click that!
Or open your dialer and hit *#*#1472365#*#*
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
wow holy crap this fix worked. i live in apartments and after i did this, it locked on to sats for the FIRST time EVER within 30 secs. im amazed this actually worked lol.
so should we assume that any phone manufactured before those dates has these problems?
mine was manufactured before the date, but now that im on 2.2 i usually get a lock on 7 or 8/12 Sats....
but when using google Nav, i get several re-routes and lost signals...
so im not sure if this would help me??
Any hints on how to get the back off after removing the screws? I watched the YouTube video, but I'm not having any luck with my normal sized fingernails.
kboater said:
so should we assume that any phone manufactured before those dates has these problems?
mine was manufactured before the date, but now that im on 2.2 i usually get a lock on 7 or 8/12 Sats....
but when using google Nav, i get several re-routes and lost signals...
so im not sure if this would help me??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got my phone in late July and my GPS performance matches exactly what the OP describes AFTER he did the fix. My phone is pure stock JI6, with no HW mods. So, it doesn't seem valid to assume all pre-October phones have the problem.
Confirmed works... Thanks to all.
- All screen shots were taken from the same indoors location. Phone was sitting in a window.
- There are two before and two after screen shots. They represent the range of results.
- I'm running Macnut R14 with JL4
Before
After
Try this
JD - You might need to go online and order an actual case pry tool. They're usually included in disassembly kits for iPhones etc. Maybe try a guitar pick??
Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
kboater said:
so should we assume that any phone manufactured before those dates has these problems?
mine was manufactured before the date, but now that im on 2.2 i usually get a lock on 7 or 8/12 Sats....
but when using google Nav, i get several re-routes and lost signals...
so im not sure if this would help me??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I would not think so. Something like this is usually a intermittent manufacturing flaw and would not affect everyone or there would be an even larger outrage about it.
Look at it this way. The spring contacts were designed to make contact without too much pressure when the back is properly in place. GOOD engineering would have accounted for slight variations in manufacturing and quality control and would have made the spring contacts overshoot the required distance a little to assure 100% contact in all situations. In this case I think they forgot to account for that and designed them to just touch, invariably some make intermittent contact and some fall just short of good solid contact (there are prior posts about how poor contact can get worse over time due to oxidation and arcing), but at least we have no reports of totally non-working GPS where they would have failed to touch outright. Chances are when October came around one of two things happened.
They decided to fix the issue and reenginerred the design to make better contact
The manufacturer ran out of the old contacts the the new shipment just work better
Either way, although this is a common issue, I don't see the evidence that it affected all pre-October phones.
I'll post screenshots later today. For now I can definitevly confirm that this fix improves gps signal levels and performance.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
...by 'proper', I mean 'standalone'!
Basically the same as my old Vapirius AX (similar to Rock/Z1) that I've used daily for 2 years, but much cheaper and runs Android 4.1 and it has 320x240 2'' screen and not the square 240x240 1.5'' style of most watches which I can't get on with.
I'm going to order it and check it out. .
Nothing to lose at that price!
http://www.hongkongeek.com/en/smartwatches/5337-20-inches-watch-an1-with-android-41.html
Wearable Smart Phone Watch AN1 2.0" Touch Screen Android 4.1.1 w/ Camera / Wi-Fi - White + Silver - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
Looks like the Neptune Pine...
The AN1 Reviewed (I Think Comprehensively)
Here's what you need to know about the watch, which I've used for several days. It's more a sweet novelty than a gadget of genuine use. But it works. It's basically a mini-tablet phone (or phablet) and functions via the exact same Android protocols, except the master controls are hard, physical buttons built into the left and right sides, rather than soft touch-buttons on or below the screen. And of course the interface is configured to adapt to the tiny size. Yet at two-inches, that screen is a bit big for comfort if you like wearing the watch face on the inside of your wrist (which I do). So I sometimes rotate it to switch position.
Touch sensitivity seems excellent, as well as touch accuracy, which is hugely important given the minuscule QWERTY keyboard that pops up when you need to enter text. Unlocking the startup screen is frustrating at first until you figure out that you have to swipe the icon up or down, not to the side, as on bigger screens. There's no icon or hard control to access the active-apps screen (from which you can toggle back and forth between active apps and turn running apps off); as on certain larger phablets, you get to it by long-pressing the home screen button.
Because the AN1 is small, its WiFi receptivity is modest (the signal is strongest the closer you are to the source). So's volume but it's not bad for the size. You won't hear much through the earphones except in relatively quiet places, unless you have a separate sound booster; but in quiet places it isn't bad. However, it's impossible to attach the earphones one-handed; at least it is for me: You have to hold open the protective soft plastic flap that covers the mini-USB port (which is where they attach), which means you can't wear it while setting that up. That said, the AN1 will also transmit to Bluetooth headsets. And video/audio playback is very smooth. Even impressive, all things considered. Not a gamester, so no idea how gameplay would go. But with a two-inch screen, why would you want to?
Believe it or not, eBook reading is also a very decent experience in either the page or landscape aspect, though for simple eye-to-text positioning, page view works best if you take the watch off and operate it two-handed. In landscape view, though, you can make like **** Tracy. The only reading app I've tried so far is Amazon Kindle, but every feature seems to work per normal. Whatever normal is at that size.
No problem with the phone detecting a SIM card or storage-expansion microSD card (I added the 32G max, which costs all of $10 on eBay). But the cards are tricky to insert, because the lock flaps that secure them in place are so flimsy. However, once they're in, they're in. And insertion of the expansion card is critical, since the Internal Storage provided is write-protected; you won't be able to download (via internet) or sideload (via computer) files or apps without providing extra storage.
The battery is built into the back cover. Comes the time when it no longer holds a charge, one would need a replacement cover. I assume those are available or will be made so eventually.
There's no Playstore app included; plus it's futile to sideload-and-install Playstore from another source, since the app quits as soon as it boots. There is instead the HiMarket app, whose store features mostly Chinese text; but if you know the apps you want/need, you can still enter a search in English and find them -- most of the time. Sideloading and installing other apps also seems to work -- most of the time.
And oh, yeah -- in the "Good safety tip, Egon" department -- don't wear the AN1 (or any other Android watch of similar concept) in inclement weather. With an exposed speaker grille and exposed miniUSB access port (the protective flap doesn't fit snugly), not to mention hard buttons that aren't part of the case proper, bringing this out into very moist air or, worse, active precipitation, would be like putting your iPad in a filling toilet tank to see how high the water has to go before it fries.
Not encountering anything much in the way of buggyness yet. All in all, the AN1 does precisely what it claims to do. And for the conversation-pieceness of it, and frankly, the satisfaction of my curiosity, I'm happy to be an owner. It won't collect dust. But it's not for the customer looking for significant enhancement of his electronic life beyond what he already has.
Thanks for the review.
Also been using the AN1 for a couple of weeks and fairly impressed, but then I've been wearing a similar one for a couple of years and have only that and a conventional phone to compare it with.
Confused what you say about the battery; my AN1 has a battery on the back that can be detached and changed by pressing a small recessed lug/clip. The battery is the same as the old Z1/Rock/Vapirius so is readily available. Are you sure your battery is non-removable?
Also, as it's rooted - although Superuser is not installed - all current Play Store and Google services, sync adapters etc can be side loaded into system/apps, changing permissions the usual way. I am running all the latest Google App stuff now, but you're right about the Chinese Market and I removed it immediately along with anything Baidu related.
My only mild criticism of the watch (I can live with the floppy USB port cover as most mobile phones have no cover whatsoever) is the screen, not the digitizer which as you point out is responsive and works well, but the outside screen. It's scratched badly already and cleaning it makes it even worse. It's almost like a bad plastic. My other smartwatch has been used every day for two years and the screen still looks brand new without protection.
Lesson is get a good screen protector BEFORE even touching it! Although is fairness, the scratches don't really show when the screen is powered.
The sound can be tweaked in the engineering settings (I've forgotten the number/symbol sequence to access those settings right now) and I have managed to get it sufficiently loud to annoy other people listening to a phone conversation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxzycSNQsz4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yjVVHpP1AM
Cheers!
marcusroberts said:
Thanks for the review.
Also been using the AN1 for a couple of weeks and fairly impressed, but then I've been wearing a similar one for a couple of years and have only that and a conventional phone to compare it with.
Confused what you say about the battery; my AN1 has a battery on the back that can be detached and changed by pressing a small recessed lug/clip. The battery is the same as the old Z1/Rock/Vapirius so is readily available. Are you sure your battery is non-removable?
Also, as it's rooted - although Superuser is not installed - all current Play Store and Google services, sync adapters etc can be side loaded into system/apps, changing permissions the usual way. I am running all the latest Google App stuff now, but you're right about the Chinese Market and I removed it immediately along with anything Baidu related.
My only mild criticism of the watch (I can live with the floppy USB port cover as most mobile phones have no cover whatsoever) is the screen, not the digitizer which as you point out is responsive and works well, but the outside screen. It's scratched badly already and cleaning it makes it even worse. It's almost like a bad plastic. My other smartwatch has been used every day for two years and the screen still looks brand new without protection.
Lesson is get a good screen protector BEFORE even touching it! Although is fairness, the scratches don't really show when the screen is powered.
The sound can be tweaked in the engineering settings (I've forgotten the number/symbol sequence to access those settings right now) and I have managed to get it sufficiently loud to annoy other people listening to a phone conversation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxzycSNQsz4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yjVVHpP1AM
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
all good and great but remember its running android 2.x!
cylent said:
all good and great but remember its running android 2.x!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. The AN1 is running 4.1.1. The older Vapirius watch I mentioned is running 2.1.
with the z1 smartwatch / Vapirius they stopped with the clean rom I would like to see a custom rom for this :fingers-crossed:
I found this clone of Galaxy Gear and it's even cheaper at $85.99 !?
http://vifocal.com/mobile-phones/ot...-2-os-dual-core-wifi-fm-1-54-inch-screen.html
And a review for it:
http://www.quadcoremobiles.com/2014...ewgalaxy-gear-clone-dual-core-android-4-2-os/
Wasn't the Galaxy Gear a fail.
Specs'
acb123 said:
I found this clone of Galaxy Gear and it's even cheaper at $85.99 !?
http://vifocal.com/mobile-phones/ot...-2-os-dual-core-wifi-fm-1-54-inch-screen.html
And a review for it:
http://www.quadcoremobiles.com/2014...ewgalaxy-gear-clone-dual-core-android-4-2-os/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For $85.99 you get: +$15 delivery to UK
8MP Camera
Android 4.2 OS
Thickness is about 8-9mm
MTK6572 Dual core processor, 512M RAM+4G ROM
350mAh Battery
E-Compass, Direction, acceleration, temperature,pressure, ambient temperature and linear acceleration sensor
Not bad. I wonder if its splash proof?
** More importantly, can you use Play Store? Anyone? **
simple1i said:
For $85.99 you get: +$15 delivery to UK
8MP Camera
Android 4.2 OS
Thickness is about 8-9mm
MTK6572 Dual core processor, 512M RAM+4G ROM
350mAh Battery
E-Compass, Direction, acceleration, temperature,pressure, ambient temperature and linear acceleration sensor
Not bad. I wonder if its splash proof?
** More importantly, can you use Play Store? Anyone? **
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This isn't a Play Store compatible device. Also, looking at the pictures, the apps are proprietary.
Some Android devices, especially Chinese ones that I've used, Google Services aren't installed and have been done so manually in order to get all the Android features.
This isn't one of them.
I can give the firmware for the AN1 if someone would like to make a custom rom.
marcusroberts said:
This isn't a Play Store compatible device. Also, looking at the pictures, the apps are proprietary.
Some Android devices, especially Chinese ones that I've used, Google Services aren't installed and have been done so manually in order to get all the Android features.
This isn't one of them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Shame hey.
All those sensors are useless if there's no app for it.
sensors
They've caught on to a great idea, but it seems pretty pointless as said before. Hopefully there will be some improvements in the (less expensive) range of android wear.
google apps
with the z1 i used gapps install zip and gapps copy zip.You guys that have the AN1 do you have these for this watch or can you point me to the place to get them.
1bluemax said:
with the z1 i used gapps install zip and gapps copy zip.You guys that have the AN1 do you have these for this watch or can you point me to the place to get them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Details on how to load all the Google stuff onto the AN1 and most other similar Chinese devices are here (reply#7):
http://linuxslate.com/cgi-bin/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1399895851
These are the steps:
Here are my instructions for putting all the correct Google Play stuff and thereby having a full non-Chinese Android. Remember to totally uninstall all the Chinese Market and Baidu.
Download the files from here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/56ppcal1t9dwm6g/AACubjVgwQIcFjVv0_wvo05na
1. Use Root Explorer
2. Copy GoogleServicesFramework.apk, GoogleLoginService.apk and Google_Play-v3.8.17.apk to the system/app folder on your phone with Root Explorer.
3. In Root Explorer click Mount R/W. Change the permissions of the 3 files to match the permissions of the other files in the folder rw-r--r-- (6-4-4). Then click Mount R/O and exit Root Explorer.
4. Install GoogleCalendarSyncAdapter and GoogleContactsSyncAdapter the usual app way.
5. Reboot your phone. Hard reset is not necessary.
6. Go to Accounts & Sync in your phone's settings, click Add account and enter your Google/GMail account details.
7. Go to your apps and Launch Google Play.
8. Update any Google stuff from Play Store if prompted.
I'll do a vid of this sometime.
Good luck!
Marcus
Thanks for the info.:good:
AN1 Battery Clarification
Hey, Marcus -
Sorry to take so long to reply.
When I said the AN1 battery was non-removable, I meant that the back of the AN1 watch IS the battery, for all intents and purposes, and is the battery housing, not a mini-case into which a battery could fit. Yes, as you say, it's removable via the lug-clip and that gives you access to the card slots. But I didn't know one could buy a replacement; the lug-clip architecture is so specific to the watch build that I thought an AN1 battery replacement would have to be sold as a locked-to-the-model accessory. (Well, until today; trolling around eBay I saw a Z1 battery/back panel replacement for sale and kind of assumed it would fit the AN1. But it was $39 which struck me as high, so I didn't purchase. I'll do a broader search for Z1 replacements now, though. If you know of where they can be gotten cheaply, chime in.)
No Real Need for Rooting
By the way ...
Even though the AN1 isn't Play Store compatible, I've been able to load everything on it that I need. I either find direct links to download the APKs desired, or APK store links that bring me to the APK. In any event, sideloading from my computer is easy, then I just use File Manager to open the apps. If the apps don't work, I uninstall them. Most of them do. And there are so many choices that you can eventually have it doing everything you desire of it. (Beasr in mind, it's not really practical to install anything too unique or fancy on the watch because of its screen size; it's best for basic utilities that let you play videos, read books, manage calendar data, email, facebook, etc. And it does all that handily. Sometimes not with apps that work on your larger Android devices; but it doesn't take much time at all to find something that'll do the job as well in miniature.)
Ok, I'm around day 5 or 6 of trying to get my new Samsung Galaxy S-5 to be 'ready for prime time'.
[ It isn't. ]
I'm NOT new to Android (I own a Nexus-7 and a Nexus-10...oh, and a TV-dongle, too.)
And, I've developed a couple of apps (I use Android Studio, on my laptop), and
Eclipse before that.
And, yet, this new Galaxy, being my first SMART phone, is putting me into mumble-mode, with
all the svc-stoppages, and crazy behaviors that its 'phone' app is exhibiting.
Ok, my phone app is the 'default'...iirc, it is called 'phone' and has a green background with a
white pic of an old telephone hand-receiver on it.
The sub-optimal behaviors list of the app includes:
(1)It has decided to allow screen-rotation, but I don't want it to, as I am not (yet)
planning to use a headset or earpiece...at least not full-time.
(2)Even worse than rotation, it sometimes totally blanks the screen during rotations...not
sure if that's a bug or just a side-effect, but I didn't want that anyway.
(3)Not even sure I want it's numeric keypad to EVER go away, but when I perform other
actions, e.g. choose 'recent', then ok..makes some sense for it to discard
the keypad to get more screen real-estate for those ancillary use-cases.
(4)The biggest defect, seems to be that, after I complete a call, and I press
the red 'end-call' button, next thing I know, if I then carry out other use-cases, such
as hitting 'Recent', checking a few things, and then hitting the 'go-back' button
(at the bottom-right now, that some side-effect often kicks in, and my
phone decides to go off and make a call to the most-recent person that I
talked to. I respond with one or two 'go-back' button presses, and then I may
see a popup saying "whoops...some 'svc' just died/crashed". [The fourth or fifth
time that happened, I had to hold-down the small button on side of the unit, and
choose 'power-down' and shutdown/reboot Android, to clear out the stacked
operations that it seems to want to re-invoke. ARGH...
Bottom-line...I want this phone' app to mostly behave with mindset of how a 'not-as-smart'
flip-phone works...as though the numeric-keypad are hardware-keys, and don't
try to out-think me. i.e. When I take the phone away from my ear, to see the keypad
in order to press a key, do NOT blank the screen and do not rotate, etc, etc
Ok, some some reasonably-intelligent tech suggest that, maybe, I could find an
alternate app for 'phone'...i.e. she suggested that I go to the app store and serially
find and install alternate 'dialer' apps, until I find one I like better.
[ She then demoed a phone running M$'s tablet-OS, and I gave it a plus-one
for being smart enough NOT to rotate it's layout when I rotated it with its
dialer active. But, no, it's gonna be either Android or go back to a flip-phone for me. ]
I retorted that I'd rather find some list of 'most-popular' alternate phone-apps for
Android, so that at least I could try out alternatives in other than a random-order.
Anyone 'been down this road', that could advise me how to proceed?
[I tried disabling 'screen rotation' but that is global to ALL apps, which is NOT
what I want. I want ONLY that one app to quit rotating...why isn't that already
an app-specific setting, under its "three-vertical-dots' icon?]
EDIT: Oh, by the way, who signed-off on defaulting to this 'phone' app?
Google or Verizon (or some other company)?
[ So as I'll know whose stock to sell short. ] :laugh:
Ok, making phone calls just isn't ready-for-prime-time yet
Even after several more days, no one at a couple of different Verizon stores could come up with
satisfactory workarounds for the 'Phone' app's bad behaviors.
And, meanwhile I noticed several more negatives with trying to make a 5-inch 'phablet' meet
my needs. Such as:
(1) On day 1, the "Otter" holster that I bought with this Galaxy got snagged as I was getting
into the car, and broke the clip. (Luckily, that vendor gave me a new outer-frame w/clip, no
questions asked.) But, the seat-belt covered it which wasn't comfortable. And, when standing,
with the phone horizontally on my left-front, I couldn't even bend down comfortably, to stretch
or when exercising, etc.
(2) On day 3, I happened to need to lie down under a kitchen sink to make a minor repair,
and the only way to be comfortable, was to completely remove the Galaxy from my belt
and lay in on the counter. Whereas, the flip-phone that I've owned for the last 5 or more
years, comfortably has NONE of those issues...I never have had to remove it, in any of
those situations.
Long story short, I have now returned that goofy too-large-to-wear 5-inch phablet, and
upgraded to a brand new LG VN170 FLIP-PHONE, that works just like the flip-phone
I had (so there's nothing that I am required to learn to use it), yet it has lots of new
software features and subtle improvements over the LG VX6300 that I'm replacing.
Note: I strongly considered Google 'Glass' for quite a long time. Conceptually, that
product is closest to my needs (now that I understand them better) !
So, to summarize:
Flip-phones rule (for low-cost portable/wearable devices to make phone calls with) !
I love my 7-inch Nexus-7 Android tablet, and will continue writing apps for Android.
[ More than enough said? ]
What's the point of this thread?
Has anyone obtained this apparently little-known watch?
I'm not sure it's made by UWatch, even though some places claim it is, and the model name follows their pattern.
But it has some interesting characteristics that blend the U8, U8 Pro and U10 together:
- it can act as a phone, with a SIM, but only through an additional (included) magnetic "SIM shell" that makes the watch a little thicker; without it, it's very thin, less than 9mm
- a detachable shell is also used for USB charging
- it has a compass like the U10, but maybe no barometer/altimeter like the U8 has, since a seller told me so, even though some specs listing suggest otherwise
- the screen is a whopping 320x320 resolution 1.56" IPS (the U8 is 128x128 TN and the U10 is 240x240)
- the battery is quite large, 360mAh, with a claimed life of 10 days (!)
- the CPU is a newer MTK2502C, though I'm not sure it runs Mediatek's Linkit like some other newer watches (there is no hint that you can install apps)
- of course, there are the usual stopwatch, step counter, sleep monitor, and so on
It is around €55, but it can only be obtained from China, I found no European reseller.
If anyone has it (or has found detailed reviews):
- does it run Linkit? Can Linkit apps be installed (through, for instance, the MediaTek SmartDevice app)?
- does it have motion gestures (for instance, does it turn on when you rotate your wrist towards you)?
- is the battery life up to promises?
- is the software solid or buggy?
- any other highlights?
I ordered one of these after I tried and was pleasantly surpised with an u8 clone(...).
There very basic if you compare them with say samsung gear s2 which runs Android and is over 330€ up here. I would rather use the word "robust". With sandby time of nearly 10 days! Thats standby offcours.
The u8 and u11 seem to use the same Nucleus os.
And though the u11 is better in every aspect it still lacks a animated and interactive notification system that Android smartwatches have.
Nonetheless one can do more with Nucleus devices then meets the eye. Its just not an open os where you can just install apps on the fly. Android devices seem to need more power especialy xburst which runs a fair amount higher in clock.
But Nucleus is also more capable then the current roms used on these smart watches.
I have yet to recieve the u11, but from what I have read it will suffice my needs for the moment.
Though I have to be honest that I do not like the U8's battery life at all. It's just ridiculously short when bluetooth is on all the time. The u11 does come with bt4.0 and the battery is bigger but it also has a faster cpu, uses gsm(if activated) and has a bigger(IPS)and higher res screen. Time will tell what the inpact is on battery life. Not much info is on the net right now.
Anyway, its a nice watch with an original design(..) an better build then the u8. Using metal alloy opossed to plastic for the case, better strap, tweaked interface with two themes, nicer clock faces etc.. and I realy like the modular design to keep the watch slim.
Hopefully someone will tweak and customize some U11 roms here at xda
Found this review(in spanish)
Does anyone have the u11 rom ? I corrupted something on mine by installing an app. Now it's stuck on the clock. Touchscreen works... it still connects to my paired phone but I can't navigate the menus.
Can't help you. I still have to recieve it but
what do you mean with you installed an app?
Benwayqb said:
Does anyone have the u11 rom ? I corrupted something on mine by installing an app. Now it's stuck on the clock. Touchscreen works... it still connects to my paired phone but I can't navigate the menus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ebsbow said:
Can't help you. I still have to recieve it but
what do you mean with you installed an app?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Long story short, many notifications did not work. Facebook, Messenger, Gmail to name a few.
I tried different apps on my Galaxy S6 and ended up with a totally incompatible app that tried to install something on the watch and corrupted something.
Thats interresting. Maybe add what app so we dont make
the same mistake again.
Did you try to reset the watch?
I mean reset not restart. There should be small hole
( the one thats not the mic) which you can use to reset the
device by puching a needle gently in there. Just make sure
its not the mic!
Mediatek Smartdevice should work.. ?
It's actually Mediatek Smart Device that messed up my watch.
I didn't find a reset button. Disconnected the battery and reconnected it with still the same result. I left the battery disconnected and I'll try gain in a few days.
I dont think removing the battery will reset the device. Flash ram isn't power dependant.
Maybe the manual can tell where or if there is an reset button?
There is no reset button. I did reset the ram via the Flashtool and I still can't access the menus. The clock did revert back to the default one.
I will need somebody to make a backup of his u11 firmware and post it !
Got mine today. Sadly I ordered Black and gotten a Gray color item. :-/ (don't buy at banggood, they will send random color when there stocks are low) Not to happy.
Anyways.
First impression is good. Metal case, in my case, Gray silver..
Battery wasn' t charged so I could not test it right away
but after a small charge it booted, silently, into clock mode.
The screen is nice at 320p. Clockface is analog which I switched
to digital for no specific reasson. Theres two faces of each, all just fine.
Two themes for menu. Menu is nicely organized with features that
matter easy to access. Much better then the U8 if I may compare.
Notification system is also much better. with a preview of the
sms or other notification that arrives. Longer notifs are clear and cripst to
read on the 320p screen. Which pops on when an notif arrives or when you lift your arm in the right direction. Very usable indeed though shaking would be better.
Every app is nicely tweaked. And the added compass works fine.
Very nice watch and very slim. Obviously adding the gsm module will add a few milimeters. Still have to test this though.
If I get around a pc I will upload the rom for those who want it or just incase. But lets see for an update first.
Misses:
A notif has an menu when swiping from the right. When a large email arrives and you want to access the menu(open, delete, block) the watch may freez.
You dont really need the menu that badly but when it locks, just press the side button for approx. 12 sec. and reboot. No biggy but unfortinute. edit; A long press on an item in the list also pop's upp the menu which works fine.
The vibrator is somewhat to loud. It makes more noice then the alarm sound(in low volume). Sadly no way of turning it down. Turn it off at the cinema or you'll get popcorned!
No Calc! This is a smartwatch, right?
Screen could be a little less bright in the dark. Although a amoled would have been great its a nice ips screen. But a lower setting would be nice.
So did you find a way to make a copy of the firmware?
Thanks
No I have not. I dont have an pc availible. I did try
it on my W10 tablet but W10 isnt beeing very likable.
Can you share the program you used, with drivers, then
I will give it an other try. Also did you use the cable that
came in the box to flash the watch?
My table did not recognize the device. Could be the OTG,
the cable or just plain old W10
I used the cable provided. But I had to use an older laptop running Windows XP. Wouldn't work on my W10 laptop.
I am currently in a moving phaze, so I dont think I can help you right now.
All my stuff is tight up.
Maybe a virtual machine with xp on a w10 tablet/pc will work...
If somebody else can jump in here? I see what I can do here. No promises though.
Benwayqb said:
I used the cable provided. But I had to use an older laptop running Windows XP. Wouldn't work on my W10 laptop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you found an issue ?
Benwayqb said:
Does anyone have the u11 rom ? I corrupted something on mine by installing an app. Now it's stuck on the clock. Touchscreen works... it still connects to my paired phone but I can't navigate the menus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems i have a same issue, only clock menu. depending on chosen clock I can access to call and message fonctions.
Best regards