Building A Killer, State-Of-The-Art ATX-E Z590 Full Tower... - Battlestations

I have all but the video card. I refuse to pay $900 for a $450 card! I'll use onboard video or my GTX-1070 from my X-99 system for the time being.
As for storage, in addition to the (2) Seagate FireCuda PCIe 4.0 NvMe M.2's, I already have over 60 TB in SATA6 SSD's and Hard Drives.
What do you guys think of my custom build choices?

HelloG3_MotoNoMore said:
I have all but the video card. I refuse to pay $900 for a $450 card! I'll use onboard video or my GTX-1070 from my X-99 system for the time being.
As for storage, in addition to the (2) Seagate FireCuda PCIe 4.0 NvMe M.2's, I already have over 60 TB in SATA6 SSD's and Hard Drives.
What do you guys think of my custom build choices?
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Maybe you can tell us the purpose of the system though it seems not to be a gaming system?

strongst said:
Maybe you can tell us the purpose of the system though it seems not to be a gaming system?
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NOT a gaming system? Seriously? Please tell me what game if any, won't play at FULL MAX on this system?
It's an ALL purpose KILLER PC.

HelloG3_MotoNoMore said:
NOT a gaming system? Seriously? Please tell me what game if any, won't play at FULL MAX on this system?
It's an ALL purpose KILLER PC.
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I don't know what your monitor setup, resolutions and FPS settings should look like, but with a RTX3060 this PC won't be able to play all games on FULL MAX(But that also depend on the games). Also depending on the number of drives, the PSU might be driven to the limit.

strongst said:
I don't know what your monitor setup, resolutions and FPS settings should look like, but with a RTX3060 this PC won't be able to play all games on FULL MAX(But that also depend on the games). Also depending on the number of drives, the PSU might be sdriven to the limit.
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I have 2 Sceptre C34's and a 78" Sammy QHD Curved. As for drives, there won't be more than a 750W PSU can handle without breathing hard. Most of the storage will be Thunderbolt 4 connected and externally powered.
As for the RTX-3060, as I said, it's not purchased because of the current chip shortage and resulting price-gouging. I'll likely buy a far more potent RTX when they're plentiful and cheap.

Damn man. All you need is another processor and you can build 2 fast machines out of all those parts. But seriously I'm waiting like you to upgrade video. Reminds me of the RAM shortage in the late '90s.

pdnorman said:
Damn man. All you need is another processor and you can build 2 fast machines out of all those parts. But seriously I'm waiting like you to upgrade video. Reminds me of the RAM shortage in the late '90s.
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LOL. I have a complete X79 system, a complete X99 system, skipped the waste of time X299 and now building this Z590 and 90% of what I do is web surf on Win 10 / Waterfox.

Related

Personal though about a tablet with over 1GB RAM

From experience reading this board, if i was in the tablet making business, I would make one with like 4GB RAM, an unlock[ed | able] bootloader and crap battery life, just to see how many people here at XDA would buy the darn thing and try to make a ROM with battery battery life and OC.
The most verbose people here about the "Eww, only 1GB" types have probably moved on to primes and are demanding TF700T's or whatever is next.
In most cases, we're likely just better off screwing with Dalvik and tuning our TF101's ROMs. It's still a VM and Java involved after all, not assembly code running natively to start with.
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk; and my TF101 is half a foot away!
I've proposed many times that asus should come out with a TF model called Asus Transformer Whiner's Edition TFwhine. In it, there will be 4gig of ram, 100gig of sdcard space, 30hr of bat life, paper thin, water proof, fingerprint proof, sticky as hell (for the butter fingers), and foldable full size PC keyboard. But I'm sure the whiners will find some other thing to whine about.
To me, 1gig of ram is enough. I've never had any issue with running out of ram. I'm serious. This has never come up for me. I mean, what the hell are people running that requires more than a gig of ram?
More RAM would be nice, but I'm more excited about Windows 8 and the new 'ultrabooks' that we'll see in the near future.
letsgophillyingeneral said:
More RAM would be nice, but I'm more excited about Windows 8 and the new 'ultrabooks' that we'll see in the near future.
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Can you give us a few examples of when you couldn't do something because it only has 1gig of ram?
goodintentions said:
To me, 1gig of ram is enough. I've never had any issue with running out of ram. I'm serious. This has never come up for me. I mean, what the hell are people running that requires more than a gig of ram?
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I have 2 other tablets and 2 phones with only 512mb of ram, even that seems to be enough for Android. IMO, anything over 1gb would be overkill.
goodintentions said:
Can you give us a few examples of when you couldn't do something because it only has 1gig of ram?
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Sorry, I thought I was still on the Charge forums. The Charge only has half a gig.
just lou said:
I have 2 other tablets and 2 phones with only 512mb of ram, even that seems to be enough for Android. IMO, anything over 1gb would be overkill.
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+1
Seriously!! What the hell are people doing that 1GB isn't enough. We used to run (some people still do) Microsoft Windows computers with less than a gig of RAM. It's ridiculous to even sit there and think, that you need more RAM on a phone or tablet.
The browser kinda eats up lots of RAM (if I have around 3-4 pages open, as usual, it eats around 400MB!!), and basically, just the GPU eats off 120MB of all the thing.
FYI, a fast teardown:
- 1024MB RAM
- From that, 728MB is available mostly (some kernels push it to 768MB tops)
- Booting the system, with all the Asus crap loads approx 220-240MB into RAM, including all the things (Launcher, settings, applications autostarting, widgets). And that's a pretty good ratio.
- Basically you now got less than 500MB RAM. If you have tons of widgets, that can reduce free RAM to 400MB. And we're at the same point as smartphones - except that our devices have a lot bigger display, with a lot bigger resolution (2.666666 times more pixels), what means, we need bigger graphics too, what increases application RAM occupation.
Conclusion: With the current setup, we can run less applications on a 1GB RAM tablet than on a 512MB RAM phone (assuming it's a mid-end device with HDPI WVGA display, like, a Galaxy S). That's why we need more RAM, if you increase it to 2GB, you get approx 1.6GB free RAM, 1.3 after system start, and with many apps open, you'll get around 200MB free.
Guess what? That means you're running to much lol. I've got about 450MB if one trusts the settings app; Google and Exchange services are eating at least 20 megs combined! Never mind crap that I don't actually use burning some too. Devices have limits, and 1GB seems to hold plenty until content creation enters the mix, and doing that on Android has more pressing limits in software and users than RAM available. Besides, 2GB tablets will more likely result in fatter apps to fill it than more space to run most apps. Just take a look at Minecraft PC.
My old development system had 1GB of RAM running FreeBSD, if you try to combine GCC, pidgin x 6 logins, Firefox x 20+ tabs, and streaming music with Flash on that laptop, it would all but hit a HCF. I could either compile or have a smooth web, or buy a more powerful laptop. I didn't need one because I could still fit everythig well enough inti its constraints, I wasn't about to start re-encodig lord of the rings whileni waited either.
goodintentions said:
I've proposed many times that asus should come out with a TF model called Asus Transformer Whiner's Edition TFwhine. In it, there will be 4gig of ram, 100gig of sdcard space, 30hr of bat life, paper thin, water proof, fingerprint proof, sticky as hell (for the butter fingers), and foldable full size PC keyboard. But I'm sure the whiners will find some other thing to whine about.
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Nah, instead of a physical keyboard built in, it ought to hover on it's own and type by mental uplink, or project one in 3D if we can't do that one yet. That way ASUS can still make money off the dock .
Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk
Actually, wasn't there supposed to be development from an MIT project, where it was a device that projected keyboards and "touch screens" on whatever surface you aim it at? It was like one of those projector things you always see in exhibitions and fancy places, where the projector interacts with the things blocking the projections, but more cellphone-like and computer-like.
Also, who could argue with more RAM? I think the thing that holds that idea is back is tablet space. Just wait for the next generation RAM/memory structures. STT-RAM, it will be a universal RAM-Memory! Non-volatile RAM ftw!
goodintentions said:
Can you give us a few examples of when you couldn't do something because it only has 1gig of ram?
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Ubuntu TF101 = Not enough RAM lol
Android = More than enough RAM for now atleast
Sent from my tf Enigmatic V2 beta 1.65Ghz Panda.test cust kernel settings
And ultrabooks are irrelevant to this discussion. You can take your ultrabook and Windows 8 but that's at the point where it's not even remotely comparable to a tablet, much less an Android tablet like the TF101 or TF201 due to the hardware costs. The licensing cost of Windows 8 alone is going to increase the price significantly.
1GB of RAM is more than enough, this is meant to be an enjoyable, lightweight consumer tablet. Not a supercomputing cluster on the go. If you want more RAM you're on the wrong device. Go get an ultrabook or a laptop because you're attempting to cram your needs into 1GB of memory, not designed for your needs.
My 2 cents it is that the memory requirement is a function of Apps. Right now most tablet's are running apps with limited functionality. But as the processors get better, more and more traditional desktop and notebook apps will migrate to tablets. This will be especially true for people that have tablets, like the Transformer, that blur the line between a tablet and a notebook. One can imagine something like Photoshop CS5 running on a tablet and easily requiring 4 GB or more of RAM.
jerrykur said:
My 2 cents it is that the memory requirement is a function of Apps. Right now most tablet's are running apps with limited functionality. But as the processors get better, more and more traditional desktop and notebook apps will migrate to tablets. This will be especially true for people that have tablets, like the Transformer, that blur the line between a tablet and a notebook. One can imagine something like Photoshop CS5 running on a tablet and easily requiring 4 GB or more of RAM.
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Oh, absolutely. I am sure that in due time we will have tablets with like 20GB of ram. But for now, with the software we have now and the foreseeable future, anything more than 1GB of ram is just stupid.
But that's a completely misguided notion of where apps and tablets are headed. Memory is not a function of apps, at least not linearly or continuously. I see memory hitting a ceiling in terms of heat, space and cost. I see apps not being developed with serious work in mind. You cited photoshop as an example and I think that's just bizarre. This is a tablet. There's this misguided notion that all mobile devices have to converge to the desktop in terms of performance and usage and I think it's bizarre and insane. When you cram a desktop into a tablet what is that? Why even bother when you can go for a laptop that would probably cost half in terms of price and multiples in terms of comfort? Why would any company bother doing this? Why would Google even push Android in this direction?
It's a tablet. You have fun, maybe do typing and word processing at the maximum and in special use cases. But it's meant to be lightweight, enjoyable and made for ENTERTAINMENT. User input at a minimum, simple touch movements, big on audio and visuals. Look at the screen to read a book, watch a video, listen to music. Pull your finger around or tilt the tablet. Not sit there and furiously work on a Photoshop project. That's what a mouse, a full sized keyboard and a desktop computer were made for.
When you talk about a future where RAM increases to meet the needs of apps, Photoshop is on the Android market and CPU power similarly increases to meet the needs. It's no longer a tablet, it's a laptop without a keyboard. It will be priced ugly and its design and specs will match that ugliness.
Maybe in the future we will have hardware so slim and so energy efficient and an input system so perfect all computers will be touch tablets, wafer thin, bendable and capable of running as fast as the U.S. govs fastest superclusters and everyone can download a genome sequencer app that lets you sequence the human genome on every tablet redundantly for ****s and giggles and within two seconds but I highly doubt this future will arrive within our lifetimes. Any attempt to head there by cramming a desktop ideal into a tablet form factor is misguided IMO.
Tubular said:
But that's a completely misguided notion of where apps and tablets are headed. Memory is not a function of apps, at least not linearly or continuously. I see memory hitting a ceiling in terms of heat, space and cost. I see apps not being developed with serious work in mind. You cited photoshop as an example and I think that's just bizarre. This is a tablet. There's this misguided notion that all mobile devices have to converge to the desktop in terms of performance and usage and I think it's bizarre and insane. When you cram a desktop into a tablet what is that? Why even bother when you can go for a laptop that would probably cost half in terms of price and multiples in terms of comfort? Why would any company bother doing this? Why would Google even push Android in this direction?
It's a tablet. You have fun, maybe do typing and word processing at the maximum and in special use cases. But it's meant to be lightweight, enjoyable and made for ENTERTAINMENT. User input at a minimum, simple touch movements, big on audio and visuals. Look at the screen to read a book, watch a video, listen to music. Pull your finger around or tilt the tablet. Not sit there and furiously work on a Photoshop project. That's what a mouse, a full sized keyboard and a desktop computer were made for.
When you talk about a future where RAM increases to meet the needs of apps, Photoshop is on the Android market and CPU power similarly increases to meet the needs. It's no longer a tablet, it's a laptop without a keyboard. It will be priced ugly and its design and specs will match that ugliness.
Maybe in the future we will have hardware so slim and so energy efficient and an input system so perfect all computers will be touch tablets, wafer thin, bendable and capable of running as fast as the U.S. govs fastest superclusters and everyone can download a genome sequencer app that lets you sequence the human genome on every tablet redundantly for ****s and giggles and within two seconds but I highly doubt this future will arrive within our lifetimes. Any attempt to head there by cramming a desktop ideal into a tablet form factor is misguided IMO.
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You should google graphene. That's where we're heading. Graphene is so strong and so conductive that electronic parts as thin as 1 atom thick could be made. We're talking ultra thin electronic devices in the near future.
I don't think 1GB RAM is enough for Honeycomb, I regularly find my free RAM dropping to double figures <70MB and the system requiring a reboot.
Even using a task killer over time will not free up the same amount of RAM as was available after the previous reboot.
Honeycomb memory management needs a massive amount of work before it can be left to control RAM on its own, I think 1.5-2GB RAM would be a much better solution
In my opinion, more RAM on Android devices is just to keep more applications in memory for multitasking.
I couldn't imagine that a 256mb game, or even a 2mb app, would benefit from a device having more ram than the size of the app.
Sent from my DROIDX using XDA App
goodintentions said:
You should google graphene. That's where we're heading. Graphene is so strong and so conductive that electronic parts as thin as 1 atom thick could be made. We're talking ultra thin electronic devices in the near future.
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http://arstechnica.com/science/news...hell-holds-the-secret-to-bendable-screens.ars
Here's another interesting one.
infazzdar said:
In my opinion, more RAM on Android devices is just to keep more applications in memory for multitasking.
I couldn't imagine that a 256mb game, or even a 2mb app, would benefit from a device having more ram than the size of the app.
Sent from my DROIDX using XDA App
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The size of an app has nothing to do with how much RAM it consumes.
A prime example is firefox on a PC... around 17MB app, can use GB's of RAM due to memory leaks, and even without leaks, would still use a couple hundred MB
Viruses are another example, designed to use up as much system resources as possible while only being KB's in size

Beginner's guide to building a PC: everything you know and don't already know!

When I saw the topic of a beginner's guide to building a PC, I jumped for it because I remember building my first PC. It actually wasn't nearly as long ago as you'd think. I also remember how clueless I was. Obviously, I know about everything that goes inside of a computer, but once I was faced with the task of putting all of that together, I was like a deer in headlights.
Prerequisites​Let's start off with a list of everything that you're going to need:
CPU
Thermal paste
Motherboard
CPU cooler
Case
Power supply
RAM
Storage
GPU (optional unless you have an Intel F-series processor)
An operating system
And then, of course, don't forget about the necessary peripherals:
Monitor
Keyboard
Mouse
Speakers
Webcam
External peripherals are beyond the scope of this post, but take note of what you need, keeping in mind that the PC you're building doesn't have the built-in parts of an all-in-one PC, like a microphone, speakers, and a webcam.
How to get started or: Pick a CPU​First of all, and I cannot stress this enough, PCPartPicker is your friend. The site lets you plug in a list of parts that you're planning on using and it will tell you if there are any compatibility issues. It's super useful. In fact, even if you know that your parts should be good to go, run them through PCPartPicker anyway just to make sure.
The other key thing you need to do when getting started is to pick a CPU. This is an important first step because you're pretty much building out the PC around this choice. There aren't any motherboards that support both Intel and AMD CPUs.
Choosing between AMD and Intel (see, I didn't put the same company first twice in a row so you guys can't yell at me) is the first step. Once you do that, you can decide what kind of performance that you need. I wrote a guide to Intel CPUs and what the product names mean. With AMD, you have Ryzen 3, Ryzen 5, Ryzen 7, and Ryzen 9, and performance goes according to how high that number is. The same goes with Intel and the Core i3, Core i5, Core i7, and Core i9.
Intel has a bunch of different suffixes. If there isn't one, it's a standard 65W desktop processor, so something like a Core i5-11600 is pretty mainstream. Add a K and it's now a 125W processor that's unlocked for overclocking. And as mentioned above, an F means that it does not have integrated graphics, so you'll need a graphics card.
Pick a motherboard, or a case, or both​Next, you have to pick a motherboard and a case. I'm including both in this section because it's a matter of priorities. Do you want a case that fits your motherboard or a motherboard that fits your case? If you already know what case you want to use, start there and find motherboards that work. If not, start with a motherboard that has what you want.
First, let's cut your motherboard choices in half. If you're using AMD Ryzen, you need an AM4 socket. In you're using Intel 10th- or 11th-gen, you need an LGA 1200 socket. Note that with Intel, 12th-gen will use a new socket, so this is not upgradeable.
Next, you have to pick the size of your motherboard, and this is where compatibility with the case comes in. There's eATX, ATX, mATX, and mini-ITX, all in size order. This very much comes down to how big of a PC you want to build. Looking for something that's super-small and can hide behind your monitor? That's where mini-ITX comes in. Want something big and beefy that's going to have some serious power and thermals? Go for eATX.
When picking a case, it will tell you what size board it can fit. Obviously, the CPU, motherboard, and case choices go hand in hand.
Now that you've narrowed down your motherboard choices to the socket and the size, you're in good shape. It's time to start looking at ports, PCIe slots, and more. Make sure that you've got the ports to plug in what you need and the latest USB standard. Make sure you've got enough memory slots. A big one is the graphics card you want to use. Make sure there's room for it not only on the board, but in the case.
Pick a CPU cooler and thermal paste​Now, it's time to figure out how you're going to keep that CPU cool. Here's the bottom line. The more your CPU heats up, the worse the performance gets. The cooler you can keep it, the more it can sustain peak performance.
The first thing that you have to choose between is air cooling and liquid cooling, and there are pros and cons to each. Air coolers can be easier to install and more cost-effective, but if you want a good one, they take up a lot of space. Liquid cooling can be better if you plan on doing a lot of overclocking.
Personally, I'm a big fan of air coolers from Noctua. I use a Noctua NH-U12A, which is not only designed to be one of the best air coolers around, but it's quiet too.
So, after you decide if you want liquid or air cooling, you then have to looking at how cool it keeps the CPU and also how much noise it makes. That noise is important.
Then there's the thermal paste, which sits between the CPU and the CPU cooler. The more evenly it's applied, the better the cooling. Many CPU coolers, like the one I mentioned above from Noctua, come with thermal paste. You can always shop around though. A tube of thermal paste costs under $10, so using the best one there is should be an easy way to keep your CPU cool.
Pick a power supply and a GPU​As you can see, a lot of these parts go hand in hand. In fact, once you've put this all together, you'll find that they all go hand in hand. But we can't talk about the power supply without picking a GPU.
Picking a GPU is optional. Like I said, you might want a simple productivity machine with a Core i5 and integrated graphics. You also might want a gaming rig with an NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090. And then there's everything in-between.
With that in mind, you need to pick a power supply. This is an area that you'd definitely be well-off to use PCPartPicker for. It will tell you the wattage of all of the parts you've picked so far, and then tell you if there are any compatibility issues with you pick a power supply. I'd suggest picking one with plenty of wattage to spare so you can upgrade down the line.
Another thing is that you should definitely get a modular PSU (power supply unit). That means that the power cables aren't attached to the PSU itself. You can add cables as you need to, and since you're a builder now, you're probably going to need to at some point.
The other thing that's important is efficiency. You'll see an 80 PLUS rating that can be Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum, or Titanium. This is important, because it's based on how much power is lost due to heat.
RAM, storage, and OS​If you've made it this far, you're in good shape. This is the easy part.
With RAM, you want more, and you want faster. It's that simple. You can also look up how fast of memory your CPU supports and go for that. The same goes for storage. An M.2 SSD is the way to go if you can, but there are also SATA SSDs. You can get an HDD if you're on a really tight budget, but I don't recommend it.
As far as the OS goes, it's between Windows and Linux. Windows costs money; Linux doesn't. I'm not really here to tell you which one you should go for.
Putting it all together​Alright, you've got all of your parts and you're ready to build your dream PC! It's the second-most exciting feeling behind the first boot.
Most of this is going to be about plugging things in where they fit, but sadly, it's not that simple. You need to start working through the manuals that came with your motherboard and your case. Those are going to tell you exactly what to plug in where, and most of it is fairly straightforward. There are few things that will actually break if you do them wrong.
The one thing that will break if you do it wrong is installing the CPU in the motherboard. It's important not to apply any unnecessary pressure when doing this because you could bend the pins on the chip or the board (depending on who made the CPU). Damage one of those and you've got some very expensive paperweights very quickly. To be clear, there's nothing to be afraid of here and it's very easy to do. Practice some healthy caution and you'll be fine.
Installing the motherboard in the case is something you'll need to follow instructions to do, which is fine, as it's easy enough. Once it's screwed into place, there will be several cables in the case that have to plug into the board. These will be for fans built into the case, for additional USB ports, and so on.
The other thing you'll have to install in the case is the PSU. Read the instructions and make sure the fan in the PSU is facing the right way. This is not something that you want to do incorrectly. There are a few cables to plug into the case and the board. Once the GPU is installed, you'll have to plug that in too.
Next, you'll probably be installing the CPU cooler. Make sure to apply thermal paste before you do. A pea-sized dot right in the middle of the CPU will do it. Do your best to bring the cooler directly down on the CPU, rather than doing it from an angle. This will spread it evenly across the chip.
Obviously, the graphics card, the storage, and RAM can fit into their respective slot. Note that for most boards, if you have four RAM slots and you only have two RAM sticks, you're better off separating them by one slot for dual-channel memory.
Once that's all done, you should be ready to plug it in and boot it up. You might not want to close the case on first-run, so you can make sure all of the fans are spinning. You can plug your USB drive with the OS into a USB port and boot into it to install the operating system.
Something went wrong!​Well, you've made it this far and now something doesn't work. Isn't that always the way it goes?
The most common problem is probably that you pressed the power button and nothing happened. After all, if the thing that went wrong is that you broke something, you should just buy a new one.
If it's not booting, now it's time to start checking cables. Make sure that everything is plugged in securely, particularly the CPU cooler. Make sure that the PSU cables are plugged in at both ends. If there were any steps you weren't sure about, such as if you plugged something in in the right spot, revisit it.
If you just can't figure it out, come back here and ask for help.
Question @therichwoods --- I'm an extremely heavy user of Chrome. I'm talking dozens of tabs open at all times in multiple windows. I assume I'm going to want to maximize my RAM to take full advantage? Or is CPU/GPU also important in my case?
svetius said:
Question @therichwoods --- I'm an extremely heavy user of Chrome. I'm talking dozens of tabs open at all times in multiple windows. I assume I'm going to want to maximize my RAM to take full advantage? Or is CPU/GPU also important in my case?
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TBH CPU is always important. But RAM should definitely be a priority.
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
Stransky said:
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
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That really depends what you want to do with your graphics card. Looking for a GTX1060/1660 might be a good idea, I had the latter one and you can play a lot of recent games in high settings with your ryzen.
Keep in mind buying a graphics card nowadays is REALLY expensive, even used ones, when you can get one. New ones are sold over the recommended manufacturer prices due to the mining scene and Corona!
Stransky said:
Hi
Just upgraded my complete system from an AMD FX8350 with 32gb Ram to a Ryzen 5 3600 with 32gb ram. Currently using my old HD7870 Graphics cards in Crossfire but as these are now nine years old am looking to upgrade to a more recent card(s) bearing in mind that I am a pensioner and it has taken me a year to gather new, system, what would you recommend in Graphics cards for this build.
Motherboard is an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max, Ram is Corsair DDR4 2666 4x8Gb. TIA
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You should've opted for ram with xmp since ryzen benefit the most from faster ram. I'm currently using aorus 3200mhz 2x8gb kit with xmp enabled and it's better compared to it's stock settings.
Insanenity said:
You should've opted for ram with xmp since ryzen benefit the most from faster ram. I'm currently using aorus 3200mhz 2x8gb kit with xmp enabled and it's better compared to it's stock settings.
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What's XMP?
svetius said:
What's XMP?
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XMP (Extreme Memory Profiles) is a technology that allows you to change memory settings by selecting a different profile, which takes advantage of higher than standard memory speeds. Simply stated, XMP is the "easy button" of RAM overclocking, as manual RAM overclocking can be an unnecessary headache!
svetius said:
What's XMP?
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RAM over 2400Mhz is overclocked. X.M.P is just a system to overclock your ram. It's standard now. Personally I wouldn't bother with anything over 3600Mhz as it gets too pricey for the performance. Go no lower than 2666, try for 3200 (this tends to be the cheaper one anyways). I believe you will need to enable X.M.P in your uefi when you install it otherwise you'll just be running 2400. Like Insanenity said, it's just a 1 click setup so there's no fuss.
If you're not focused on gaming; while 16GB is fine, if you find a 32GB kit in your budget than definitely get it. Get a fair CPU with over 6 cores. (so ryzen).
LTT just did a video on something that might interest you.
This could be a good option for your productivity build as it's bang for buck. But if you have the budget for R7 5000's than just go for that.
Tldr: Chrome is a ram and cpu whore, use firefox...
I'm kidding, invest in CPU and RAM more than others if chrome is your concern.
p.s. Feel free to ask questions
strongst said:
That really depends what you want to do with your graphics card. Looking for a GTX1060/1660 might be a good idea, I had the latter one and you can play a lot of recent games in high settings with your ryzen.
Keep in mind buying a graphics card nowadays is REALLY expensive, even used ones, when you can get one. New ones are sold over the recommended manufacturer prices due to the mining scene and Corona!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply. Will just have to hang on to Current cards and hope prices drop in the near future on the GTX 1060/1660 cards. Too expensive for me ATM even second hand
Stransky said:
Thanks for the reply. Will just have to hang on to Current cards and hope prices drop in the near future on the GTX 1060/1660 cards. Too expensive for me ATM even second hand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, unfortunately the prices are beyond the reality... If the bitcoin hype decreases, there might be a chance back to reality
strongst said:
Yeah, unfortunately the prices are beyond the reality... If the bitcoin hype decreases, there might be a chance back to reality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just caught a news story headline that 30-Series cards will be available in stores, soon at reasonable prices soon - as BTC drops below 30K this morning....
HipKat said:
I just caught a news story headline that 30-Series cards will be available in stores, soon at reasonable prices soon - as BTC drops below 30K this morning....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Luckily I got my 3060TI in 2020 for a low price, now it costs 50-80% more
strongst said:
Luckily I got my 3060TI in 2020 for a low price, now it costs 50-80% more
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I looked and Best Buy has it for $399. Less than I paid for my 1080 2 years ago
HipKat said:
I looked and Best Buy has it for $399. Less than I paid for my 1080 2 years ago
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In stock for 399? Surely out of stock, otherwise it must be a mistake Sounds like the MSRP for the Founders Edition.
strongst said:
In stock for 399? Surely out of stock, otherwise it must be a mistake Sounds like the MSRP for the Founders Edition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll go look again when I get a break, but I'm pretty sure you're correct about it being the founders edition

Best components to upgrade?

What would be the best components to upgrade on my setup
Intel Core i5-8400
8GB RAM
1TB HDD
4GB Intel Optane
Nvidia GTX 1050
Kenora_I said:
What would be the best components to upgrade on my setup
Intel Core i5-8400
8GB RAM
1TB HDD
4GB Intel Optane
Nvidia GTX 1050
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
that depends on what you want to do with your PC. The mainboard is the base and limiter for all other components except the power supply(in most cases).
Well, i only have a acer pre-built the motherboard is acers....
I want to use it for video rendering or gaming
It can run pretty much anything I think I've seen people upgrade it to an rtx and stuff
@Kenora_I if it was me, and I just did this upgrade 2 weeks ago and am loving it, If your 1tb of storage isn't a Nvme/M.2 I would do that. I had a 2.5 in sata had and for $80 on Newegg I got a WD 1TB sata m.2 and it's night and day difference. Boots in like 15 secs, instant response when multitasking etc. And I just use PC for everything but gaming. So coding/compiling is a mind blown difference lol
If I was you I would start saving for a new built to be honest, aim for a B550/B550M with a Ryzen 5600X for example. Video rendering and gaming will soon become a stretch on that system if it isn't already.
Assuming the power supply is non standard and not easily upgraded, the only real bottleneck that can be remedied is storage. Agree an M2 ssd would be best upgrade likely available.
CamoGeko said:
If I was you I would start saving for a new built to be honest, aim for a B550/B550M with a Ryzen 5600X for example. Video rendering and gaming will soon become a stretch on that system if it isn't already.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the money, but I just hate the price inflation due to the chip shortages.
Dont wanna end up like one of those people with less RAM performance that LTT demonstrated in one of his vids
Kenora_I said:
I have the money, but I just hate the price inflation due to the chip shortages.
Dont wanna end up like one of those people with less RAM performance that LTT demonstrated in one of his vids
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would build new since you have several things that could use an upgrade in the next year or two. Adding upgrades to an older oem board is just money you will never recover for an end result of a PC still in need of a mobo upgrade.
Building new doesn't have to be that expensive nor does it have to be overpriced ryzen. I threw together an example here . Room to expand RAM by 2 slots later if needed. Less than $600 bucks and could use your GTX 1050 until you get an email that it's your turn to buy card at MSRP.
EVGA's notify list works, may take 2 or 3 months but you can get a card at MSRP.
In my opinion it would be best to wait until prices falls down to regular prices.
But you may consider getting SSD and HDD as you've mentioned you would be playing games and 1TB isn't sufficient.
You can look for case or better case fan if needed.
Mechanical keyboard and Mouse can be consider too.
You haven't mentioned about the PSU you may also consider that if you are looking forward to getting power hungry GPU in future.
Get a cooler if needed if prices are fair enough for it. (if you get one then get one where you don't have to buy one if you choose to upgrade to latest CPU.
In my opinion this are some possible upgrade you can make with your currant build.
If in case you choose to make new build in future then don't upgrade anything in this build presuming that you don't have any issue with currant build and your build gets job done.
In short upgrade if needed or just don't upgrade besides storage.
tek3195 said:
EVGA's notify list works, may take 2 or 3 months but you can get a card at MSRP.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been on the EVGA list since beginning of the year, the only email I got from them was to tell me they're swapping the model I actually wanted to a low hash model. Thanks EVGA, how about you just make me a GPU. It's been 6 months.
CamoGeko said:
I have been on the EVGA list since beginning of the year, the only email I got from them was to tell me they're swapping the model I actually wanted to a low hash model. Thanks EVGA, how about you just make me a GPU. It's been 6 months.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Must depend on model. I signed up in Feb. and didn't have the money when 1660 ti came up, resubmitted for 1660 super and got it a couple of weeks ago. It's gotta be model, location shouldn't matter I wouldn't think. I don't know how they do it, but 6 months sucks.
CamoGeko said:
I have been on the EVGA list since beginning of the year, the only email I got from them was to tell me they're swapping the model I actually wanted to a low hash model. Thanks EVGA, how about you just make me a GPU. It's been 6 months.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol
ohjabarn said:
Tempted to upgrade my 2080 ti to a gigabyte 3080 ti so got it from NEWEGG however not certain my PSU would be adequate. PSU and everything (I imagine) that draws power are recorded underneath:
1 x Seasonic Focus Plus 750W 80 Plus Gold Modular Power Supply
1 x Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6GHz (Coffee Lake) Socket LGA1151 Processor
1 x Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Elite Intel Z390 (Socket 1151) DDR4 ATX Motherboard
1 x Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 PC4-24000C16 3000MHz Dual Channel Kit
1 x Samsung 2TB 860 EVO SSD 2.5" SATA 6Gbps 64 Layer 3D V-NAND Solid State Drive
6 x Corsair ML120 Pro RGB 120mm Premium Fan with Lighting Node
1 x Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 4 air cooler
Cheers generally functioning admirably.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should be good, 750W is what EVGA Power Meter recommends for the components you listed. There are quite a few power supply calculators available online.
So, it really depends on what you want to do with your PC. Do you want to make your PC more suitable for gaming or work? As an example, I use editing software from Movavi and it requires a lot of good components such as SSD, high-end processor and of course a lot of RAM. From my point of view, you need to change your HDD to SSD and add more RAM, so you'll have a very powerful machine.
Now would be the time to start looking at things as prices are falling.

My PC, any idea on what to update next ?

Hey, here are the specs of my current desktop. I bought it back in June 2018, and since only added more ram and an HDD, also most of my peripherals.
Specs :
CPU : Intel i5 8400
CPU cooler : Be quiet, I don't know what exactly
RAM : 16 GB Dual-Channel "DDR4 Ballistix" @ 1366MHz --> 2 at 2400MHz and 2 at 2666MHz each 4096 MB
Motherboard: ASUS TUF Z370-PLUS GAMING
GPU : 3071 MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3 GB (EVGA)
Storage : - 232 GB Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250 GB (SATA (SSD))
- 931 GB Seagate ST1000DM010-2EP102 (SATA)
- 931 GB Seagate ST1000DM010-2EP102 (SATA)
Power supply : I don't know, but I remember it being good 500-650W, 80+Gold, I think.
I want it to be better, any ideas on what should I update first ?
Noe367 said:
Hey, here are the specs of my current desktop. I bought it back in June 2018, and since only added more ram and an HDD, also most of my peripherals.
Specs :
CPU : Intel i5 8400
CPU cooler : Be quiet, I don't know what exactly
RAM : 16 GB Dual-Channel "DDR4 Ballistix" @ 1366MHz --> 2 at 2400MHz and 2 at 2666MHz each 4096 MB
Motherboard: ASUS TUF Z370-PLUS GAMING
GPU : 3071 MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3 GB (EVGA)
Storage : - 232 GB Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250 GB (SATA (SSD))
- 931 GB Seagate ST1000DM010-2EP102 (SATA)
- 931 GB Seagate ST1000DM010-2EP102 (SATA)
Power supply : I don't know, but I remember it being good 500-650W, 80+Gold, I think.
I want it to be better, any ideas on what should I update first ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not a bad system in any way! The question is, in which application should your PC be better? A game? Video rendering?
And What is your resulution of your monitor(s) where your GTX1060 has to deal with?
strongst said:
That's not a bad system in any way! The question is, in which application should your PC be better? A game? Video rendering?
And What is your resulution of your monitor(s) where your GTX1060 has to deal with?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mostly play game, but also use a lot of cpu in others programs, so the CPU is often at 100% because of the types of games and multitasking, the GPU is also often overused, but it can be changed by reducing in game graphics but a bit annoying. Also, I have two monitors, one 2560*1440 @ 144Hz and the other is 1920*1080 @ 75Hz. I know right now GPU are a bit expensive, but if I want to change CPU I will most probably have to change the motherboard too.
Noe367 said:
I mostly play game, but also use a lot of cpu in others programs, so the CPU is often at 100% because of the types of games and multitasking, the GPU is also often overused, but it can be changed by reducing in game graphics but a bit annoying. Also, I have two monitors, one 2560*1440 @ 144Hz and the other is 1920*1080 @ 75Hz. I know right now GPU are a bit expensive, but if I want to change CPU I will most probably have to change the motherboard too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, the 1060 can't handle >1080p gaming at 144hz good, that's the main part you should update. You can check my Ryzen build here where I'm using similar resolutions for the monitors.
The 3060ti might be a good choice. I don't talk about the current prices at all, you know...
You can update to an i9-9900k which is ~30% faster than yours. But your processor isn't that bad, it might be more the lot of multiple tasks where you should think about more cores (10/16) in general
If you have more available bandwidth and ports consider adding more drives for the OS.
Depending on the Intel firmware there may be some interesting Raid options.
Explore your page file/drive options as well.
Just make sure to clone the OS drive for easy restore, clone before installing antivirus apps.
Keep the data off the OS drive, just apps.
Never clone data drives; copy only! Cloning media files can cause you to lose needed null marks.
strongst said:
Yeah, the 1060 can't handle >1080p gaming at 144hz good, that's the main part you should update. You can check my Ryzen build here where I'm using similar resolutions for the monitors.
The 3060ti might be a good choice. I don't talk about the current prices at all, you know...
You can update to an i9-9900k which is ~30% faster than yours. But your processor isn't that bad, it might be more the lot of multiple tasks where you should think about more cores (10/16) in general
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot ! Very useful
blackhawk said:
If you have more available bandwidth and ports consider adding more drives for the OS.
Depending on the Intel firmware there may be some interesting Raid options.
Explore your page file/drive options as well.
Just make sure to clone the OS drive for easy restore, clone before installing antivirus apps.
Keep the data off the OS drive, just apps.
Never clone data drives; copy only! Cloning media files can cause you to lose needed null marks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I might buy a .m2 drive
Noe367 said:
I might buy a .m2 drive
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I not up to date at all on the new mobos and drives... I run dinosaurs
ID your bottlenecks.
Research it thoroughly, even then it will be by trial and error.
Playing with the page file (maybe adding another fast dedicated drive) may yield good results with minimal expense/effort.
blackhawk said:
I not up to date at all on the new mobos and drives... I run dinosaurs
ID your bottlenecks.
Research it thoroughly, even then it will be by trial and error.
Playing with the page file (maybe adding another fast dedicated drive) may yield good results with minimal expense/effort.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, thanks !!
Noe367 said:
I mostly play game, but also use a lot of cpu in others programs, so the CPU is often at 100% because of the types of games and multitasking, the GPU is also often overused, but it can be changed by reducing in game graphics but a bit annoying. Also, I have two monitors, one 2560*1440 @ 144Hz and the other is 1920*1080 @ 75Hz. I know right now GPU are a bit expensive, but if I want to change CPU I will most probably have to change the motherboard too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go for a mobo with all solid state caps and preferably no electrolytics which invariably fail with age.
Gigabyte has been making all solid state mobos for over a dozen years.
blackhawk said:
Go for a mobo with all solid state caps and preferably no electrolytics which invariably fail with age.
Gigabyte has been making all solid state mobos for over a dozen years.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Again, thank you, very helpful
Noe367 said:
Again, thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome.
Don't skip on the power supply*. Get the best you can find. A failed supply can be a real pain to troubleshoot.
Make sure it's minimum rated output supports your devices on that rail. Probably not an issue but be aware of it.
Most importantly make sure you have lots of head room on all the supply rails especially the lower voltage ones. Leave room for expansion.
Overrate by at least 20% of expected maximum surge demand for all rails.
Look closely at build quality. Does it look well built using epoxy PCBs and heavy wires?
A clean, neat layout?
Quality fans and excellent ventilation that conform to your case layout/venting needs?
Enough direct outputs to minimize preferably eliminate daisy chaining?
Long enough for the mobo and graphics card?
Note the exit point for cables, do they integrate well with your case design/layout?
Fun times
*a good case is a joy to work with and helps to protect your investment.
blackhawk said:
You're welcome.
Don't skip on the power supply*. Get the best you can find. A failed supply can be a real pain to troubleshoot.
Make sure it's minimum rated output supports your devices on that rail. Probably not an issue but be aware of it.
Most importantly make sure you have lots of head room on all the supply rails especially the lower voltage ones. Leave room for expansion.
Overrate by at least 20% of expected maximum surge demand for all rails.
Look closely at build quality. Does it look well built using epoxy PCBs and heavy wires?
A clean, neat layout?
Quality fans and excellent ventilation that conform to your case layout/venting needs?
Enough direct outputs to minimize preferably eliminate daisy chaining?
Long enough for the mobo and graphics card?
Note the exit point for cables, do they integrate well with your case design/layout?
Fun times
*a good case is a joy to work with and helps to protect your investment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome !
This beast or similar. The power supply goes on the bottom.
Amazon.com: Antec P101 Silent Performance Series Mid-Tower PC Computer Case with Sound Dampening Panels, 4 X 120/140mm Cooling Fans Pre-Installed : Everything Else
Buy Antec P101 Silent Performance Series Mid-Tower PC Computer Case with Sound Dampening Panels, 4 X 120/140mm Cooling Fans Pre-Installed: Everything Else - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
First of all, I don't want to offend anybody that has commented their suggestions already, but in my opinion most of the replies are pretty lackluster to say the least.
Now, I saw you mentioned that you mostly play games on your PC. I'd say your CPU is still perfectly fine for most modem games, the GPU is another story though. While the standard 1060 is still a decent card, your version only has 3 GB of VRAM. This is becoming more and more of a problem in modern titles and you should consider upgrading, I'd say at least to a 6 GB 1060. Of course, the current market is awful and you shouldn't spend too much money on that old of a GPU, but if you can find one at a decent price, it might be worth a buy.
Other than that, your system is pretty well specced out in my opinion, you might want to sort out that RAM situation and get a matching kit of DDR4 at a decent clock speed, your description seems a bit all over the place in that regard. 16 GB of RAM is still perfectly fine, I wouldn't recommend a capacity upgrade, but matching sticks with matching speeds can do wonders.
Furthermore, I'd consider a bigger SSD, but your current storage configuration should provide enough space and as long as the OS is located on the SSD performance shouldn't be too bad either.
Finally, whatever you do, getting a 9900k, like somebody suggested, is a bad idea in my opinion. If you don't want to do any serious overclocking or have to do **very** CPU-intensive tasks, your 8400 should still hold up well. If you go for a 9900k you might as well build a new system because you're probably gonna need a new motherboard, CPU Cooler and definitely a GPU upgrade so the 9900k doesn't have to live in bottleneck hell. Incase you absolutely want to upgrade the CPU, I'd say go for an i7 of the 8th generation, as you'll be able to expect better performance than from your i5 thanks to multithreading while not having to upgrade any others parts mentioned above.
So, to conclude: You should upgrade your GPU. Go for something like the 6 GB 1060 or better. Search around on the internet for GPUs that work well with your processor. Maybe get some matching RAM. If you still have money to spend, a bigger SSD might make everything a bit snappier. I wouldn't consider upgrading the CPU.
And, a last final note: Make sure you don't exceed your PSU's wattage, definitely check before buying any upgrades.
littlegamer757 said:
First of all, I don't want to offend anybody that has commented their suggestions already, but in my opinion most of the replies are pretty lackluster to say the least.
Now, I saw you mentioned that you mostly play games on your PC. I'd say your CPU is still perfectly fine for most modem games, the GPU is another story though. While the standard 1060 is still a decent card, your version only has 3 GB of VRAM. This is becoming more and more of a problem in modern titles and you should consider upgrading, I'd say at least to a 6 GB 1060. Of course, the current market is awful and you shouldn't spend too much money on that old of a GPU, but if you can find one at a decent price, it might be worth a buy.
Other than that, your system is pretty well specced out in my opinion, you might want to sort out that RAM situation and get a matching kit of DDR4 at a decent clock speed, your description seems a bit all over the place in that regard. 16 GB of RAM is still perfectly fine, I wouldn't recommend a capacity upgrade, but matching sticks with matching speeds can do wonders.
Furthermore, I'd consider a bigger SSD, but your current storage configuration should provide enough space and as long as the OS is located on the SSD performance shouldn't be too bad either.
Finally, whatever you do, getting a 9900k, like somebody suggested, is a bad idea in my opinion. If you don't want to do any serious overclocking or have to do **very** CPU-intensive tasks, your 8400 should still hold up well. If you go for a 9900k you might as well build a new system because you're probably gonna need a new motherboard, CPU Cooler and definitely a GPU upgrade so the 9900k doesn't have to live in bottleneck hell. Incase you absolutely want to upgrade the CPU, I'd say go for an i7 of the 8th generation, as you'll be able to expect better performance than from your i5 thanks to multithreading while not having to upgrade any others parts mentioned above.
So, to conclude: You should upgrade your GPU. Go for something like the 6 GB 1060 or better. Search around on the internet for GPUs that work well with your processor. Maybe get some matching RAM. If you still have money to spend, a bigger SSD might make everything a bit snappier. I wouldn't consider upgrading the CPU.
And, a last final note: Make sure you don't exceed your PSU's wattage, definitely check before buying any upgrades.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, now I have the choice and many opinions to make my own choice
blackhawk said:
This beast or similar. The power supply goes on the bottom.
Amazon.com: Antec P101 Silent Performance Series Mid-Tower PC Computer Case with Sound Dampening Panels, 4 X 120/140mm Cooling Fans Pre-Installed : Everything Else
Buy Antec P101 Silent Performance Series Mid-Tower PC Computer Case with Sound Dampening Panels, 4 X 120/140mm Cooling Fans Pre-Installed: Everything Else - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an In Win, this is fine for me, for the moment. Will also see that !
Noe367 said:
I have an In Win, this is fine for me, for the moment. Will also see that !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a real clean layout. Power harnesses run behind a steel inner panel for better shielding, out of sight and out of the way.
Plenty of cooling with the ability to expand cooling if needed. It's solid and heavy.
Antec cases come with a parts manifest as well.
blackhawk said:
It's a real clean layout. Power harnesses run behind a steel inner panel for better shielding, out of sight and out of the way.
Plenty of cooling with the ability to expand cooling if needed. It's solid and heavy.
Antec cases come with a parts manifest as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh cool, will look into that when needed !
Noe367 said:
Hey, here are the specs of my current desktop. I bought it back in June 2018, and since only added more ram and an HDD, also most of my peripherals.
Specs :
CPU : Intel i5 8400
CPU cooler : Be quiet, I don't know what exactly
RAM : 16 GB Dual-Channel "DDR4 Ballistix" @ 1366MHz --> 2 at 2400MHz and 2 at 2666MHz each 4096 MB
Motherboard: ASUS TUF Z370-PLUS GAMING
GPU : 3071 MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3 GB (EVGA)
Storage : - 232 GB Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250 GB (SATA (SSD))
- 931 GB Seagate ST1000DM010-2EP102 (SATA)
- 931 GB Seagate ST1000DM010-2EP102 (SATA)
Power supply : I don't know, but I remember it being good 500-650W, 80+Gold, I think.
I want it to be better, any ideas on what should I update first ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
gaming wise, GPU should be a priority
multi-tasking wise, buy the newest intel gen 10 or 11 also you can opt for AMD
Core i5 11th gen is a wise option
ryzen 5 3600 still good too
you'll need cpu and motherboard too

Question Advice on PC setup

I'm running a resin 3d printer (Elegoo Saturn 2), but my current PC isn't able to keep up or handle the work load...
So I'm in need of a new system, but having a hard time narrowing down the overwhelming options these days. After looking around, I have a rough idea of the specs I'll need in order to run Blender and Chitubox slicing software.
I'm looking for a desktop system with 32GB RAM capacity, a decent video card, CPU and min Windows 7 64bit.
Does anyone have any suggestions on decent systems that are more affordable than a gaming system??
I'm a noob to 3D printing, so any advice would be so helpful and appreciated!!
{Mod edit: Quoted post has been deleted. Oswald Boelcke}
Thanks so much for your reply!
I'm currently looking at a few different refurb options, that seem like they would fit the bill in terms of RAM, CPU and Storage (combined between HDD & SSD). The only thing I'm hesitant on is they all have integrated video card (Intel); and from everything I've seen, most are suggesting that I'll need a dedicated card to accommodate the rendering/modeling software...
Do you think this would be an issue, or could I get away with the integrated card?
BBCro said:
I'm running a resin 3d printer (Elegoo Saturn 2), but my current PC isn't able to keep up or handle the work load...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What aspect is it not able to keep up with?
Takumidesh said:
What aspect is it not able to keep up with?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RAM and Graphics mostly.
It's a dinosaur and can't run the Blending and Slicing software properly on 8GB of RAM.
GPU is a very important part for rendering. You should look for a GPU with atleast 6GB VRAM. For CPU, good clock and more cores will be great. And for RAM You should not only look for more RAM but for faster RAM.
One cheap way is a server tower with 2 quad core 3.4 mhz prosesers £10 ebay, 32 gb server ram very cheap £20 and descent graphics card with 6 gb memory s/h £60.

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