I run my hot spots 24/7 and they overcharge the batteries and puff up.
Verizon already did one recall on the Franklin "Ellipse".
I do a direct USB powering since many devices won't run without a battery.
The photo show the one for the MiFi 8800L with a diode, a 51k ID resistor and a 100k thermistor resistor.
It works fine, but I still wasn't happy with how warm the device got even without a battery.
So I threw away the back plate, broke the glass/touch panel off the bezel and removed the OLED display.
Now the tin covers on the processor get direct access to air and it runs a lot cooler.
It seems to work fine.
Still, I wanted to be able to run "top" and make sure that it's not thrashing too badly without the OLED and the I²C touch panel.
I plugged the MiFi into Windows 10 and identified a single HID interface with a 4 byte input record and a 4 byte output record.
I tried to read the input record, nothing was coming out.
So I wrote my 4 bytes of zeroes (in Windows that makes it 5 bytes since you have to add an unused record ID).
Code:
memset(report, 0, 5);
WriteFile(hid, report, 5, &n, NULL);
And lo and behold, the MiFi reset and came back with 7 interfaces, including the original HID.
One of the interfaces was a CDC serial that came up as a virtual com port (VCP).
Code:
mifi login: admin
Password:
Login incorrect
Any idea what the password could be?
I wrote a password spammer but after 30-40 login attempts it stops listening.
I added a 40mm square heatsink. Now it runs even cooler. I cut away some of the top cover so that you can still plug in the LCD if you need to.
If you're thinking this is all pointless: In marginal areas a hot unit decreases the S/NR. I've often stuck my old Jet Pack in the freezer when nothing else would get me a connection.
So I believe the password is listed in the device settings. On mine its under advanced settings on the screen.
I want to get more outta mine and am trying to put custom firmware on it.
I'm not sure if you mean the regular WiFi or administration logon password. I've tried those. I don't know what the login itself is either. I've tried root and admin. Can you give me a screenshot of that password using the regular web interface? (Ok, with the password blacked out.)
In other news, I discovered that the network manual selection allows me to select AT&T or Telekom (since I paid full price for the unit). It may not have all the right bands, but I think that I'll try test drive one of them since the Verizon tower here is horribly overloaded. That's 8 kb/sec download during prime time.
I got mine second hand and dont have a data plan currently but its the verizon one.
No, that's the regular Administrator password. It doesn't work here:
Code:
mifi login: Admin
Password:
Login incorrect
mifi login: admin
Password:
Login incorrect
mifi login: root
Password:
Login incorrect
mifi login: user
Password:
Login incorrect
mifi login:
This is on the virtual com port coming over the USB cable, not the front screen or the web access.
how are you accessing this com port when i boot and enable usb connection it doesnt appear in windows
That's the whole point of that memset/WriteFile stuff at the top. I've never had to resend that so I don't know if that's a permanent enable. It did disconnect and reconnect when I did it, so I think that it's real. If you're not showing the same as I see now, that confirms it.
Do you have UsbView.exe? It's here: https://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Utilities.htm#MicrosoftUSBView
This is the what I have (trimmed down to the essentials). Is your "Total Length 0x136" the same as me? Do you see 7 interfaces?
Code:
Device Descriptor:
idVendor: 0x1410
idProduct: 0xB023
bcdDevice: 0x0318
Configuration Descriptor:
wTotalLength: 0x0136
bNumInterfaces: 0x07
Interface Descriptor:
bInterfaceNumber: 0x00
0x0409: "RNDIS Communications Control"
Interface Descriptor:
bInterfaceNumber: 0x01
0x0409: "RNDIS Ethernet Data"
Interface Descriptor:
bInterfaceNumber: 0x02
(Something custom)
Interface Descriptor:
bInterfaceNumber: 0x03
(Something custom)
Interface Descriptor:
bInterfaceNumber: 0x0C
0x0409: "CDC Abstract Control Model (ACM)"
Interface Descriptor:
bInterfaceNumber: 0x0D
0x0409: "CDC ACM Data"
Interface Descriptor:
bInterfaceNumber: 0x0E
0x0409: "HID Interface"
(You get extra credit for noticing that the interface numbers are not contiguous! (0, 1), 2, 3, (12, 13), 14. That breaks some Linux libs.)
Edit: Oh! My 8800 was originally 1410/b010, then when I did the HID thing it turned into 1410/b023. I just looked at my code.
So this is a Qualcomm processor, so apparently this is a Qualcomm DIAG port. I still can't find a password, but I strongly suspect that "root" is the (only useful) user.
Ok, so I managed to reset it back to "Normal", a/k/a 1410/b010
I see that in this mode there is only one interface, that HID.
So I wrote a little utility:
Code:
C:\>mifilink /?
MiFi Configuration Utility
mifilink <cmd>
cmd = normal, diag
C:\>mifilink
Found MiFi 8000/8800 (normal mode)
C:\>mifilink diag
Found MiFi 8000/8800 (normal mode)
Sending Diag (0) ok
C:\>mifilink
Could not find any MiFi devices
C:\>mifilink
Found MiFi 8000/8800 (DIAG mode)
When it couldn't find anything that was because it was rebooting. I put that in there to demonstrate that the utility knows that. Without a command it just shows what it sees.
Note: This is not a zip file. Don't unzip it, just rename it mifilink.exe
I had a question on how I was powering this. Just to clarify:
I'm using a USB cable that I cut up. Normally the color code is to be trusted, but check with a voltmeter if you have it.
Black is ground, green is D+ (unused), white is D- (unused), red is Vbus i.e. +5V.
The photo in the OP shows it all.
From the bottom is the ground connection to black.
Then the 100k resistor for the thermistor to ground (to make the device think that the temperature is reasonable).
Then the 51k resistor to ground to fake the device out to thinking that a battery is connected.
Then the 1 Amp diode (like a 1N4001 to 1N4007) to drop the voltage down a bit to make life easier for the device.
The banded end (i.e. the cathode) goes to the contact, the plain end (i.e. the anode goes to the red wire.
If you don't like murdering your device you could take a block of something (wood, plastic) and put four contacts on it.
Then you could leave your device unmodified. I've made some blocks for cell phones that I have for testing.
Here's a Moto E6 that I was trying to get into EDL mode. The plug has one resistor in it for thermistor.
Renate said:
I had a question on how I was powering this. Just to clarify:
I'm using a USB cable that I cut up. Normally the color code is to be trusted, but check with a voltmeter if you have it.
Black is ground, green is D+ (unused), white is D- (unused), red is Vbus i.e. +5V.
The photo in the OP shows it all.
From the bottom is the ground connection to black.
Then the 100k resistor for the thermistor to ground (to make the device think that the temperature is reasonable).
Then the 51k resistor to ground to fake the device out to thinking that a battery is connected.
Then the 1 Amp diode (like a 1N4001 to 1N4007) to drop the voltage down a bit to make life easier for the device.
The banded end (i.e. the cathode) goes to the contact, the plain end (i.e. the anode goes to the red wire.
If you don't like murdering your device you could take a block of something (wood, plastic) and put four contacts on it.
Then you could leave your device unmodified. I've made some blocks for cell phones that I have for testing.
Here's a Moto E6 that I was trying to get into EDL mode. The plug has one resistor in it for thermistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I would recommend something slightly different, use a tp4056 to charger the battery, they don’t get very hot and it bypasses the internal charger and usb c port. So you could use that for data still.
Renate said:
I had a question on how I was powering this. Just to clarify:
I'm using a USB cable that I cut up. Normally the color code is to be trusted, but check with a voltmeter if you have it.
Black is ground, green is D+ (unused), white is D- (unused), red is Vbus i.e. +5V.
The photo in the OP shows it all.
From the bottom is the ground connection to black.
Then the 100k resistor for the thermistor to ground (to make the device think that the temperature is reasonable).
Then the 51k resistor to ground to fake the device out to thinking that a battery is connected.
Then the 1 Amp diode (like a 1N4001 to 1N4007) to drop the voltage down a bit to make life easier for the device.
The banded end (i.e. the cathode) goes to the contact, the plain end (i.e. the anode goes to the red wire.
If you don't like murdering your device you could take a block of something (wood, plastic) and put four contacts on it.
Then you could leave your device unmodified. I've made some blocks for cell phones that I have for testing.
Here's a Moto E6 that I was trying to get into EDL mode. The plug has one resistor in it for thermistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this. it worked like a charm. This was the best solution for me even after trying two of Netgear's LTE Modems and Modem/Router. Those devices frequently lost connection to Verizon. Neither Verizon nor Netgear could help me.
There was a question on firmware updatting the 8000/8800
I tried a bit to find EDL test points on my 8800. Since this is my main connection that was in use I didn't try too hard at the time.
I had an Orbic Speed that I got under warranty and don't use so I could attack it at my leisure.
I found the EDL test points. It uses Red Hat Linux. Since I'm more Android and don't need to do anything I dropped the matter there.
This is all related here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...-firmware-flash-kajeet.4334899/#post-86616269
(My main device, an Onyx Boox Poke3 ereader is also modified with a reed switch as I do a lot of slinging partitions around.)
Can you still power via the USB port and ommit the DC at the battery terminal?
If not, would a capacitor work in the batteries place?
You need active power coming in on the battery terminal. If you just want to just use the USB port you can jumper from the USB through a diode to the battery in. Of course you still need the two resistors. There is a test point near the USB connector where you can pick off power. I don't have a photo off-hand.
Renate said:
There was a question on firmware updatting the 8000/8800
I tried a bit to find EDL test points on my 8800. Since this is my main connection that was in use I didn't try too hard at the time.
I had an Orbic Speed that I got under warranty and don't use so I could attack it at my leisure.
I found the EDL test points. It uses Red Hat Linux. Since I'm more Android and don't need to do anything I dropped the matter there.
This is all related here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...-firmware-flash-kajeet.4334899/#post-86616269
(My main device, an Onyx Boox Poke3 ereader is also modified with a reed switch as I do a lot of slinging partitions around.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's three test pads on upper right of the 8800 board (the same side as the battery). Shorting the left pad to the middle pad and plugging in a USB cable results in it booting in EDL mode.
mjg59 said:
There's three test pads on upper right of the 8800 board (the same side as the battery). Shorting the left pad to the middle pad and plugging in a USB cable results in it booting in EDL mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be a publicly available loader that'll work here
Renate said:
I had a question on how I was powering this. Just to clarify:
I'm using a USB cable that I cut up. Normally the color code is to be trusted, but check with a voltmeter if you have it.
Black is ground, green is D+ (unused), white is D- (unused), red is Vbus i.e. +5V.
The photo in the OP shows it all.
From the bottom is the ground connection to black.
Then the 100k resistor for the thermistor to ground (to make the device think that the temperature is reasonable).
Then the 51k resistor to ground to fake the device out to thinking that a battery is connected.
Then the 1 Amp diode (like a 1N4001 to 1N4007) to drop the voltage down a bit to make life easier for the device.
The banded end (i.e. the cathode) goes to the contact, the plain end (i.e. the anode goes to the red wire.
If you don't like murdering your device you could take a block of something (wood, plastic) and put four contacts on it.
Then you could leave your device unmodified. I've made some blocks for cell phones that I have for testing.
Here's a Moto E6 that I was trying to get into EDL mode. The plug has one resistor in it for thermistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you power an SSD via the USB-C (for file sharing feature 8800L) still with doing the power where the battery would be going? Or do I need to send 5v down the USB-C wire since the battery input would be ~3.3v?
pcoplen said:
So I would recommend something slightly different, use a tp4056 to charger the battery, they don’t get very hot and it bypasses the internal charger and usb c port. So you could use that for data still.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would you care to share how the tp4056 would hook up to the charging pin? This sounds like the way I would need to go in order to power an SSD via USB-C port.
stealthrt said:
Can you power an SSD via the USB-C (for file sharing feature 8800L) still with doing the power where the battery would be going? Or do I need to send 5v down the USB-C wire since the battery input would be ~3.3v?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The device has a boost converter to take battery power and boost it to 5V for the Type C when you are using a flash drive.
You don't need to do anything.
If you did route 5V to the Type C yourself it would say, "Oh, I'm connected to a charger, of course there is no flash drive."
I can plug in a flash drive, there is 5V supplied to it, it's takes 70mA or so.
It is enabled on the MiFi Share setting page.
I can't find it on my Windows machine. Maybe because I disabled so much of that net sharing.
If you really wanted to keep the battery, yes, you could throw in a TP4056 charger board and have it charge your battery.
stealthrt said:
Would you care to share how the tp4056 would hook up to the charging pin?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just connect the two battery pads on the PCB to the + and - of the battery.
I tried the EDL, the test points are as stated, "Left" in the instructions means towards the middle of the device.
Code:
HWID: 0007d0e100000000
Hash: 62b4a62f72d6c323
I couldn't find a loader either.
As I've said before I think this device runs hot.
That's why I cannibalized it and added a heatsink.
Maybe this thing was tested at an ambient temperature of 20°C (68°F) but it just runs away at higher temperatures.
At 38°C (100°F) ambient temperature even with a heatsink this thing is a nuclear reactor.
I had a little 12V 40mm fan. I plugged it into 5V and that's enough to keep this thing cool when it gets hot.
Related
Hi. I've solved the problem of using other chargers with GT.
Like Apple, Samsung used a little trick with their chargers.
To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.
Usb pinout:
gnd d- d+ 5v
To work you must short d+ and d-.
From 5v use a 33k resistor to d+/d-.
From gnd use a 10k resistor to d+/d-.
If you have multimeter you should obtain ~4v between 5v and d+/d-; and ~1v between gnd and d+/d-.
I tested it and it's working.
Hi, it's not a trick but a standard. You only need to short d+ with d-, the resistors are not needed. Just be sure that the charger outputs closest to 5v possible, around 5.2~3 usually work for everything. About 5.6v and it start not to work on some devices, like apple..
Maybe, I have to test that
I know it's not a trick, I should wrote "trick".
For example GT adapter outputs 5.31v.
Apple adapter worked with 1 22k resistor between d- d+.
WarlockM said:
Hi. I've solved the problem of using other chargers with GT.
Like Apple, Samsung used a little trick with their chargers.
To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.
Usb pinout:
gnd d- d+ 5v
To work you must short d+ and d-.
From 5v use a 33k resistor to d+/d-.
From gnd use a 10k resistor to d+/d-.
If you have multimeter you should obtain ~4v between 5v and d+/d-; and ~1v between gnd and d+/d-.
I tested it and it's working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
WarlockM said:
To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How can you do that? You need an extra device adapter? Please explain.
I've tested with d-/d+ shorted and it's not working.
@MizGarfield if u have 1 usb extension cable u can cut it on half.
Tie together white and green wires.
Tie black wires and conected to that 1 end of 10kohm resistor, the other end tie it to green/white wire.
Same to red wires but use 33kohm resistor.
See att. Sry for drawing.
bookmarking this for later use
WarlockM said:
I've tested with d-/d+ shorted and it's not working.
@MizGarfield if u have 1 usb extension cable u can cut it on half.
Tie together white and green wires.
Tie black wires and conected to that 1 end of 10kohm resistor, the other end tie it to green/white wire.
Same to red wires but use 33kohm resistor.
See att. Sry for drawing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't need that for modern devices has i told you. It did not work because you did it wrong. I have all my usb chargers working the new way, you even have wikipedia talking about it. You have to cut the data + and - on the power supply from the female usb port and short only the female d+ and d-. Trust me it works and it is alot simpler.
Edit : from wikipedia "The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200 Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification."
""As of June 14, 2007, all new mobile phones applying for a license in China are required to use the USB port as a power port.[35][36] This was the first standard to use the convention of shorting D+ and D-.[37]""
http://apple.slashdot.org/story/10/08/03/1743240/Hardware-Hackers-Reveal-Apples-Charger-Secrets
""We all love to call out Apple when they design deliberate incompatibility into their devices, but there is a perfectly valid technical reason for what Apple is doing here, and, in fact, they are following a USB specification (which LadyAda unfortunaterly didn't even test).
Without data communications or when suspended, devices may legally draw no more than 2.5mA from a host, which is useless for charging. In fact, even if you're generous and pretend they're connected, devices are not allowed to draw more than 100mA without negotiating for a higher current, which requires actually talking to the host, and 100mA is still too little to charge properly. 500mA is the maximum allowed by the USB spec, but devices must negotiate it (there may be too many devices on the bus for negotiation to succeed).
Before there was a spec for "dumb" USB chargers, Apple used the resistors as a sentinel to avoid drawing too much current from undersized chargers in order to avoid damaging the host. This is a hack, but it works, and honestly, we're smart enough to figure out a couple resistors on the data lines. It's not like they're using crypto auth on the charger. They have a perfectly valid reason to do this. Devices which charge from "dumb" chargers aren't following the spec, though this is a common industry practice.
As it turns out, the USB-IF came up with a USB Battery Charging spec [usb.org]. The spec is long and boring, but it boils down to: short together the data lines (no resistors required) and you indicate that you're a dumb charger that can supply anywhere from 0.5A to 1.5A.
Guess what happens when you short the data lines of an iPhone 3G and supply 5V [marcansoft.com]. Did Apple just follow a standard? Incredible!
(Yes, I'm not following the USB spec there by in turn using a USB cable to supply the 5V and not negotiating over its data lines. I didn't feel like grabbing a dedicated 5V PSU for the shot, so sue me.)"""
http://marcansoft.com/transf/iphonechg.jpg
ok ??? no need for resistors, only 5.3V MAX and d+ and d- shorted
Thnx for the tip gonna try this later on my sanyo eneloop power booster tried it yesterday without this mod and it doesn't charge so gonna look for a AF to AF converter and modify it to gound the D+ and D-
@adolfotregosa
I tried again shorting d-d+, with iphone it works but with GT it's not working.
I use BatteryWatch and it is saying Not Charging. It's detecting the connection like usb port but is not. I use some device build by myself with 1 amp capabilities. D- and D+ r free of any connection and i can do with them what i want.
I dont say you r wrong but it's not working with GT.
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
but smt is wrong on your custom setup, voltage ??
EDIT: i just measure the original charger and it has no resistance between the data and power pins.
I think i know what could be wrong, when you plug in the Tab and it says not charging, how many volts have you got at that time ?
The original charger is very good because when it not charging the tab it has 5.3x volts but when you plug it in it lowers to 4.8x V Max and that is very good ! most chargers tend to lower much more (bad quality or just not powerful enough) and that is what causes the not charging messages on the tab or other devices.
Well i rest my case on this.
My device with no load it have 5.21v and with load 5.03v so it's not from him and i have another supply 5v/12 amp and it's doing the same (not charging, only with data shorted).
When u r trying to measure the original ps u can read ~7k between gnd and data but from 5v to data u cant because it have some capacitors.
Maybe samsund did something else, i have to try, maybe data pins drawing some current (mA) and that's why it's not working with only shorting them.
For the moment it's the only (working) solution i've found and i'm happy with it .
P.S. If i'm not finding anything else the last resort will be to open the original ps
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
USB Charger
This is what worked for me.
Items Needed:
USB Extension Cable
33k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-1129)
10k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-006)
Steps:
1. Cut USB Extension Cable in half, lets name the 2 halves, the half you will plug into the power suppy will be called "Cable A" and the half that you plug into the Galaxy Tab Data Cable will be called "Cable B"
2. On 'Cable A" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, eliminate Green and White on this cable only as it will not be needed, leaving you with only the Red and the Black Cables
3. On "Cable B" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, this should leave you exposing all 4 wires
4. On "Cable B" strip both the Green and White wires and join thes 2 wires with the 2 resistor ends (you should be using the resistor ends that have the red band with these wires), these can be joined by either soldering or just twisting together.
5. Strip Red wire from both cables and join together with the 33k-Ohm Resister (this will be the larger of the 2 resistors and should also be the end with the Gold Band) and as well join these together with solder or just twisting together.
6. Repeat the above process with the Black wires and 10K-Ohm Resistor.
7. No finally use Electrical Tape or Shrink Tubing to cover all your work.
This worked using it on a Champtek 5v 2.1a USB Car Charger and Home Charger. Also worked with iPhone charger. Also works with Original Galaxy Tab.
Hope this helps out.
May I just ask some clarifying questions?
rick75204 said:
This is what worked for me.
...
4. On "Cable B" strip both the Green and White wires and join thes 2 wires with the 2 resistor ends (you should be using the resistor ends that have the red band with these wires), these can be joined by either soldering or just twisting together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does it matter WHICH resistor you join to which of these two wires?
rick75204 said:
5. Strip Red wire from both cables and join together with the 33k-Ohm Resister (this will be the larger of the 2 resistors and should also be the end with the Gold Band) and as well join these together with solder or just twisting together.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So that you have effectively bridged the red wire with 30K-Ohms to one of either green or white running to the TAB?
rick75204 said:
6. Repeat the above process with the Black wires and 10K-Ohm Resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And bridged the black wire with 10K-Ohms to the other of either green or white running to the TAB?
Would this be an accurate picture, with the 33K Ohm Resistor on the left, and the 10K Ohm Resistor on the right?
I think the intention was that you short the green and white wires together: so you are connecting both wires to both resistors.
That way the two data lines are both held at a fixed voltage of about 1.2V
Thanks, that clarified it.
I noticed today that if I connect my Tab to my keyboard (standard Apple USB KB with keypad, connected to a circa 2006 iMac), the device started charging according to battery stats. When it was plugged in it was at 48% and it ended up at around 60% after a few hours. Am I being deceived or something? I was under the impression that it would only charge if connected to the mains charger. Well I guess I'll see how long it runs now it's off the leash and see if it lasts till the morning (left my charging cable at work - D'oh!).
No, it definitely does charge even when it says it isn't - just slowly. I've got a 2A non-official USB charger that charges it up pretty quick, but still says it isn't charging. If the screen is off, it will even charge off one of those tiny Kindle chargers that must be delivering less than 500mA, but *really* slowly.
Clarify
Sorry guys, only a clarification.
As far as i understood:
the GT DOES charge with *any* charger (or connection to PC);
if you use the original charger (2Amp), it charges showing the charging-icon;
if you use a non-original charger, it charges in any case but NOT showing the charging-icon and depending on the charger power (even 1Amp charges, or 500mAmp, *VERY-REALLY* slowly);
if you use a non-original charger with the two resistors (33k + 10k) it charges showing the icon (even with a 1Amp).
Can anybody confirm if i understood well?
Thanks!!
eiem said:
Sorry guys, only a clarification.
As far as i understood:
the GT DOES charge with *any* charger (or connection to PC); Yes but slower than the original charger
if you use the original charger (2Amp), it charges showing the charging-icon; Yes, exactly
if you use a non-original charger, it charges in any case but NOT showing the charging-icon and depending on the charger power (even 1Amp charges, or 500mAmp, *VERY-REALLY* slowly); Yes.
if you use a non-original charger with the two resistors (33k + 10k) it charges showing the icon (even with a 1Amp). Depends, i get various results even though i am using the mod since day 1.
Can anybody confirm if i understood well?
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats it for now.
It seems that the Tab could recognize the status of the usb connection by measuring the usb data rx/tx wire level. If it is not shorted, the "pluged in but not in charging" status will appear, as the mismatch voltage of the usb connection is made.
Sent from my XT701 using XDA App
Ok guys, so nuclear war stroke the planet, your brand new tv and pc got busted in the initial attack and you're left with your precious HD2 running some custom rom and about 16-32gb of storage. Hope you don't get borred, there won't be many apps on marketplace, or even a marketplace (servers got busted by the nuke )
Now to get more seriously i can't figure out why i would need a phone able to be powered on 24/24. But i guess at least it could be useful on camping trips or stuff like this.
This is the start of a project, are goals are something like this:
1. reverse engineer the charge algorithm used by HD2 (in involves at least 2 charging modes each with 2 stages, as i know so far)
2. assemble or buy a 5-10W solar panel (only the panel and a Schottky type fast diode)
3. get myself some old laptop batteries and strip them down for cells and controllers.
4. design and assemble a cell pack as a buffer between the solar panel and phone
5. design a switching mode voltage stabilizer and make a custom usb hub in order to also have usb host functionality if i feel geeky and need linux
6. design a charge controller for the cell pack when using solar power.
7. put all things together and test
The goal is simple. Although there are solar batteries that provide some extra juice to laptops or pda's they function somewhat like 2-3 hours discharge, about one day in full sun to recharge.
I want a system that can power a full load working hd2 (worst scenario) non stop (day and night) including cloudy days, nuclear winter or whatever. The system must also be able to power about 3-4 usb devices and sustain a full 500mA drain on each port while still being able to power the hd2 non stop. Aaah, yes, the thing must be portable, plug&play, reliable and maintenance free. At most, it should have the size of a regular 15 inch laptop and about 2kg weight (all things included).
Stage 1 completed
So i figured out how hd2 charges it's battery. It's pretty simple actually.
Charging is made in the same way for either wall charger or usb charging. Same pins are used. However, when the wall charger is used, charging current can be as high as 800-900mA. This will decrease to some 20-30mA when the battery will be almost 100% charged.
If you however connect the usb data pins to hd2 and to something (computer, hub etc) hd2 will change the charging mode to usb. This feature ensures that when connected to a pc, the phone will never try to get 8-900mA from a 500mA usb port pretty neat. Instead, maximum charge current is limited to about 400mA.
If you get access to the usb wires inside the cable you can trigger either mode by simply disconnecting or reconnecting the data pins (green+white on standard usb cables). This is useful because i can devise some means of redirecting the charge current to either external battery (let's say after a night of use for the hd2) or to the hd2 if .. for some reason it's internal battery is discharged.
A usb enabled pic microcontroller (say 18f2550) can be used to control the charging process of either internal or external battery by simulating a pc connection, thus enabling hd2 to switch to low current charge. However if i'm guessing right, a simple usb hub could also do the job as it also contains a microcontoller that "knows" the usb protocol. So because i will use an external powered hub for linux, I'll try to use it also for switching between charging modes. Besides is more easier this way and i (or others) will be spared the time needed to program a microcontroller, or fabricate a pcb for it and it's corresponding components. And.. in case of nuclear attack there won't be any radio shack or electronics store where you could buy microcontrollers
Stage 2 completed:
Well i got myself some time ago a cheap 10watt polycrystaline solar panel for use with a robot i'm building. It was about $50 here in Romania. I guess i'll be using this one, even if it's quite big (something like a 16 inch laptop). Anyway i could also power other things with it. Will do some tests, and if it's suited for the job, it will be used. It arrived completely assembled so it also spares me the trouble and time of connecting individual cells into to form a solar panel.
Update : completed, will use the spare 10watt panel, until a new one arrives.
Stage 3 completed:
Got some 5-6 old laptop batteries. Stripped them down and got some ~30 cells. I'll test them out and sort about 4-6 of them.
Stage 4 completed: I'm currently sorting out some cells. As far as design goes, the capacity of the "extended battery" will be 14400mAh (single charge, using no solar power). That could easily power a full 15 inch laptop for about 4 hours, so i guess hd2 will have no problems staying alive for one night until next day and the sunrise to kick in for the solar charging to take place
Stage 5+6 completed:
There won't be any linear voltage stabilizer design for the buffer between the battery and hd2. They are quite inefficient with 30-40% power lost in the form of heat. Switching mode stabilizers+converters will be the way for this design. Found a ready made voltage stabilizer (converter) that's suited for the job , Saved some good hours that would otherwise have been spent on designing one from available parts.
Stage 7: yep, i'm now building the damn thing. I've simplified the design as much as i could, while keeping it safe for the phone, i guess the project will be possible to make by anyone with basic soldering skills.
apr. 13 - update: construction delayed due to one cell failure (the difference in internal resistance between the cells was greater then i expected). Will now search for a replacement, recalibrate the battery pack and recharge. However I expect that the battery module should be ready by the end of this day or tomorrow.
ok then.. it was built, it was tested and i'm already using it or at least.. trying to figure out a use for it
Anyway, if you're the camping type, if you feel geeky or wanna make a eco-friendly charger for the hd2 (or other usb charging enabled things) here's how to build one
You'll need the following materials:
- patience, this is a long post, try not to get bored while reading it
- some basic electronics skills, basic understanding of components, measurements and circuit troubleshooting (this is not a beginner project i guess, as hard as i tried to make it, if done improperly... well of course, you risk killing the poor phone in the process).
- some second hand laptop batteries, 3-4 would be ideal, they can be kind of old, but must be functional to some degree.
- a cheap usb charger used for cars, the one that plugs into the cigarette jack OR some good electronics skills to design a switching power supply. Guess most of people will go with the first option, in order to be more helpful i also designed this circuit using this option. You should buy the cheapest adapter, the cheaper the better. That's because the expensive ones have a feature that enables them to stop working if the voltage of the car battery drops to a certain point. That's supposed to be some sort of protection not to allow the car battery to discharge and thus preventing you to start your car. We don't want this protection, we want to be cheap asses, we want dirt cheap. However the adapter you want to buy must deliver 5V at around 1-1.5Amps minimum. 5Volts at 500mA is to little, it will simply kill itself when you start the thing once it's completed.
- a standard usb hub, any will do. This is if you want usb host functionality or use linux.
- a 5-10W solar panel. The bigger the better - it will allow to recharge the buffer battery (the one you'll be building) at a faster rate. This is the single most expensive part of this build. If you simply want an external battery for the hd2 you can skip the panel, if you want solar charging.. this is .. of course, a must.
- one fast rectifier diode or a schottky diode, you should buy it if you use a solar panel, the supplier of solar panel could also recommend one to use with that specific panel. We have to use one, this will make sure the current goes from the panel to the battery, not the other way around.
- bunch of wires, a multimeter and a soldering tool witch you're not afraid to use.
- a variable power supply, either it be a wall charger with variable output voltage, a laboratory power supply, or some charger that can output anywhere from 3.6 to 4.5 volts at anywhere from 300mA to 1A. Any combination will do. This is required only once in order to precharge the cells to a specific voltage.
- one switch or something similar in order to ... switch the thing on and off.
- spare time/understanding wife/coffee etc
1. Ok, first of all you need to get those laptop batteries open. Use some sharp tool, your karate skills or whatever necessary to crack those batteries open and expose the individual cells inside. Be careful not to damage the cells in the process, at least if you use some sharp tools. Once exposed, the cells will be linked to each other, you need to separate them by cutting the wires or metal bands that links them. Once done sort them out, if you have multiple batteries, sort the cells from each battery in a different case or basket or whatever you want, the idea is not to mix them.
Here's mine:
2. You now need to measure up individual cells with a multimeter. You're looking for the voltage rating of each cell. If you find cells with 0 volts, they're dead. If you place the multimeter in continuity testing mode and the 0 volts cells are showing continuity across their leads, yep.. they're really dead. Never use these. Good cells have anywhere from 1volt to 3-4volts.
Once you selected your good cells start forming a pack. The idea is simple. The more cells you put, the longer the thing will last. Standard laptop cells are rated to a minimum of 3.7Volts and 2400mAh. Each of them is almost double the capacity of the standard battery that comes with the HD2. However since you're going to use second-hand ones, they will have sign of usage, a smaller capacity then that of a new one. Still they will perform at least the same as hd2 battery in terms of battery life. Minimum configuration starts with 2 cells, i recommend 4 cells as a decent start but you can go and add more cells if you like. The more cells the longer battery life but at the expense of added weight. My choice was 6 cells. If you had 2 laptop batteries and each of them had 6 cells, you can make your pack on anywhere from 2 to 12 cells.
Let's say you choose 6 cells (always an even number). If 6 is you choice, you will need to divide that number by 2. So you get 3. You need 3 working cells from the same laptop battery to form a pair. Go back to the place you kept the cells and select 3 cells, NEVER mix cells from different batteries. These 3 cells you have (first pair) will need to be linked in parallel connection. The negative ( - ) of each cell is linked to the negative of the other and the positive to the other 2 cell's positive. We'll get there, but at a future step. Now we need the second pair of 3 cells. Again look in your cell basket and try to find 3 more cells from the same battery. This battery may be different then that first one you selected cells for the first pair. Yet again, the 3 cells must come from a single battery, no mixes. And.... again, these 3 cells must be placed in parallel. So if we already imagine them connected, we would have 2 pairs, each of them with 3 cells linked in parallel. The 2 pairs must be linked in series, so the minus of one pair will go to the plus (positive pins) of the other. The unconnected pins of each pairs (one minus one plus) will be used for voltage supply - you'll get the combined voltage of the cell pack here. If i were to draw this things for you to better understand.. it would look something like this.
green is one cell pair, orange the other. The black things are wires. This are the connections for a 6 cell pack. If you have 8 cells, you will make pairs from 4 cells (2 pairs). If you have 4 cells - the pairs will have 2 cells. A charged cell will have something like 4 volts. A pair made up of several cells in parallel will still have 4 volts across it's leads, but the overall current capacity of the pair is increased by the number of cells it contains. So if you have 3 cells each with 4v and 2200mAh, the pair will have 4 volts but with 6600mAh. If you place 2 pairs in series like on that drawing, you increase the voltage of the group by the number of pairs you add while still having the same current capacity. So if you get 2 pairs of 4 volts and 6600mAh, you will have 1 group, 8 volts and still 6600mAh. That's the total output of your pack. Because hd2 needs 5V (not 8 !!) we need something to decrease the voltage from 8 to 5 volts. That's why we need that car usb charger. It normally uses the 12V available at the cigarette jack to output 5v your phone can use. Cheaper ones, can use 8 volts, or 7 volts (lower voltages) because they don't have a circuit to prevent deep discharging the car battery like expensive one have. We need one without this circuit, because our battery pack only outputs 8V. So the car usb charger will take the 8 volts at it's input and give us 5volts at output.
3. before linking cells to each other, you need to charge them to the same voltage. Use a charger/power supply etc. I used a lab. variable power supply, if i had none, my weapon of choice would be a nokia standard wall charger (or another brand), older ones, i would cut off it's jack, expose the wires and connect them to my cells, it outputs 3.7 volts, enough to charge each cell. So charge each cell to about 3.7 volts. You will need to connect the multimeter in parallel to the cell and monitor the charging process. When a cell reaches 3.7 V disconnect it and charge another one, until all of them have 3.7 V. After this, leave the cells for one day. Next day you will be measuring each cell again. If one of them drops charge by it's own and you find.. let's say 3 V, you got a defective one, back to step 1&2 and select other cell pairs. If all cells still have the same aprox. level (somewhere around 3.5 to 3.7 volts) you're good to go.
Here's one cell linked to my voltage supply.
4. start thinking of either a case of something to contain your build. I used copper plated pcb (from electronics stores, radio shack etc). I will be connecting my cells to this thing, kind of like a pcb assembly. You may use some plastic housing and connect the cells with wires and secure them with some glue. If you have experience working with pcb, etching the copper layer and such things, feel free to try using pcb.
Here's my blank pcb for this job - i've already cut it to required dimensions. It's the orange metallic thing in the center. Beside it you can see my hub and the usb car adapter i will use.
5. disassemble (i repeat disassemble.. no more karate skills) your hub (if you're going to use one) and your car usb adapter. My usb adapter looks something like this.
The hub interior will look different, we'll get on that on a later step. Anyway, speaking of the usb car adapter, i'll be needing that small pcb with the components, so i'll remove it from there. The board contains the switching mode voltage converter, yummy yummy, i want that. It basically has 1 chip that generates a pulse signal that is feed to the input of a power transistor which pulses the input voltage across a coil. By autoinduction the coil produces another current, other components rectify and filter it so the second smaller current, produced by the coil, it's basically what powers on the devices connected at the output. In simple terms .. that's how it works. Again.. we need this, don't break it
Mine has a funny oval shaped form, so i'll be cutting my pcb in order to insert it inside.
There are 2 wires coming out of the small board inside. That's were the cigarette jack was connected. We will connect our cell pack to that, so you might wanna remember their position. The red one will be the positive one, black being negative. In a cigarette jack, the center pin is always positive, so if your wires have other colors, the one that's linked to the center pin will be the positive one.
6. Look for a way to place the cells inside your casing or on your pcb. Since i will do a pcb with them, i'm trying to find a possible placement for them.
this was one way, but i figured it was easier for me to simply place each pair on a line and form 2 single lines of cells instead of 3. Once done, i begun drawing the pcb with some paint marker. I will then etch the pcb, so only the paint covered areas will remain.
here's the pcb after etching, i'm connecting various wires to complete the cell pack circuit before connecting the cell themselves.
If you're using some sort of case, it's time to begin assembling your cells together. Use the solder gun or whatever you have for soldering to attach some wires to the each cell leads. Li-ion and heat aren't good friends, be as quick as possible when soldering, you don't want to heat up the cell too much. If it starts to make any strange noise, hiss or is venting anything from it... run away, don't touch it, don't throw it.. simply leave it and run away. Of course, this is a very rare scenario.. but take your safety when working with high reactivity materials like li-ion cells.
You want to arrange the cells in that paint draw up in the post. 2 pairs, linked in series. First solder wires to make one pair, then the other, then connect the pairs to each other. If you use a case, use some insulator to cover the solder points and to avoid some accidental short circuits in the future.
Back to my pcb solution, here's my assembly.
7. If you want to use an usb hub, you can try to salvage some usb port from an old pc or laptop's motherboard. This way you could avoid using a permanently attached wire to the device you're building in order to have the hub connected to the phone. I found an old laptop motherboard with an intact usb jack.
i remove the usb port from it and soldered on my board.
8. Next you need to connect the car usb charger's pcb to the battery pack you assembled. Basically the 2 wires from the charger must be linked with the 2 wires from the battery pack. Insert a switch on the cable in order to be able to turn on and off the whole thing. In my case, i'll now connect the car charger's pcb to my pcb, in the portion i've cut.
9. now you need to modify your hub to be able to power on hd2 during usb hosting mode. There's a link in the linux section (ubuntu for hd2) about this, you may want to read that also. I basically soldered a wire across each hub's usb port positive pin (the 4 usb jacks) and the input usb jack. The ground connection is the same for all jacks. So all jacks including the one used for connecting to a usb host device (pc) have the power pins linked together. Those 2 power pins must also be linked to the output of the usb car charger so that when you power up the thing using the switch, the charger also powers up the usb hub. After you solder all the wires, also insulate the soldering points and secure the hub in your casing along with the battery pack and usb car charger's pcb.
Here's mine, it was soldered on my pcb.
as you can see, there are some couple of wires coming out from it. Those need to be connected to the phone for me to have usb host functionality. So i'll connect these wires to the usb port i've mounted at step 7 so i can use a standard usb - microusb cable to link this thing to the phone. If you want to make it simpler, cut out a usb - microusb cable and directly solder the wires onto the hub's pcb as shown in the guide on the ubuntu linux thread for hd2.
In my case, i use that port i salvaged, as i said before.
10. assemble the whole thing and carefull inspect the connections. The order of this will be - battery pack - linked to the car usb charger - that's linked to the hub power pins (for each usb port). You'll then have one usb port for use when requiring usb host functionality, 4 usb ports for connecting all sort of usb slave devices, and one usb port (the one that it's soldered to the car usb charger) for use when you want to simply charge your device normally.
Here's my build. I've also placed a fuse between the battery and the usb charger, so that in case of malfunction it breaks the circuit. The fuse holding pin is the black thing at the opposite side of the usb hub. Near the pcb, you can see the fuse and it's cap.
11. Check again all connections. when ready, press the switch and bring the thing to life. Use the multimeter and check all usb ports voltage. You shoudn't have more then 5.5Volts and no less then 4.5Volts. If you do, then you did something wrong, turn off, disassemble and recheck. If you did it right, you'll get a voltage inside the above interval. Inspect the device once again and make sure all things are safely placed and secured inside. Try plugging some cheap usb devices you may have, a mouse, usb flashlight, another hub etc. If they receive power and all it's ok you may try to connect the phone.
Voila.. usb charging from the ghetto style external battery.
And here's a small video of preliminary testing (i haven't yet tested the usb hosting capability but i have no reason to think it will not work). At this time i didn't placed any switch on the board so i switch on and off the thing by placing the fuse inside the holder or removing it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yf6kRpNNqkw
Next step... maybe some of you may think.. well how does this thing recharge when the batteries are depleted. At this stage the battery pack is recharged by connecting a 8.4 voltage supply across the battery pack leads (wires) but the next logical step will be adding the solar panel to the build and securing this pcb to the back of the panel. Then.. further testing. I'll be keeping the panel and that rectifier diode handy. This is still work in progress.
When are we getting it?
i guess it will take about 1-2 weeks to do the job.
i'm also involved in 2 more projects, it could be done as soon as i finish my automatic dog feeder with video-streaming over internet, food sensors and audio feedback. )
facdemol said:
i guess it will take about 1-2 weeks to do the job.
i'm also involved in 2 more projects, it could be done as soon as i finish my automatic dog feeder with video-streaming over internet, food sensors and audio feedback. )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey facdemol I am not as versed in electronics as you are my friend. So my question to you is this is something that someone with a fair level of intelligents can attempt also? Secound is this, is the list you give in your first post all some one needs to try this? I would really like try this myself and maybe correspond my findings with you. Also thank you totally of you ammazing knowledge filled posts here on XDA.
lol.... Im not sure how to respond to this
Cant wait to see how it turns out, best of luck
sounds interesting!
Good man, keep us updated however things turn out... you sound like someone who isn't afraid of experimenting with electronics for the thrill!
Sent from my Nexus One
Wow! Pretty interesting
Hey facdemol I thought you might like to check this article in the Portal out if you have not already. Looking forward to hearing back from you here on your project.
good article, was inspiring
stage 2 and 3 are completed. Now working to design a high performance dc-dc (switching mode) converter that would take 8.4V input and give me some 5V @ 2.5A output for hd2's charging and the usb hub. Some work needs to be done here and some careful testing, if for whatever reason this converter fails, hd2 motherboard could get fried Working on a way to implement some safeties, also i'm studying the way older pda's and pna's used switching mode power supply's and converters. I'm thinking i could either salvage one of these modules or build one specifically for hd2.
Update : found a way to make this pretty DIY for anyone with basic electronics skill (so that you can avoid designing switching mode converters, making PCB's, winding coils etc).
I found some dirt cheap car adapters that output 5v (pc usb jack) and can be used for various usb charging enabled devices. I'm testing to see their performance with my custom battery pack and the solar panel. Results are pretty good so far, i managed to run them stable at arout 5.5-6Volts input voltage. 2 of these will be required for this project (2 amp max current) or one if the output transistor inside is changed or a heatsink is mounted on it. I will come back with results and in the end, a guide with the required modifications.
The second post contains the updated progress on this project.
Third post will contain some sort of guide for a DIY assembly of such device.
These are updated daily.
If everything goes smooth, i guess i will posting some pictures and guides to build such things, by the end of this day or tomorrow.
Current features of this design :
- 10watt solar panel module
- 14400mAh battery module - cell pack designed as 3p2s
- 2 charge modes (slow - similar to a pc's usb port and fast - similar to hd's wall charger)
- 4 powered usb ports (usb host capable)
- 1 high-power usb port (it can charge any device requiring 5V at around 500mA - 1500mA)
- uses standard usb-microusb cables, no need for other hacks or special cables
- feels geeky
facdemol said:
The second post contains the updated progress on this project.
Third post will contain some sort of guide for a DIY assembly of such device.
These are updated daily.
If everything goes smooth, i guess i will posting some pictures and guides to build such things, by the end of this day or tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds greet I will bee waiting to see what you have come up with man, this could be something that can change how we can use our HD2s on the go. n
Keep up the good work facdemol, I am also waiting to see if you post any more power consumption results in your other thread.
I would like to ask anyone reading this to help vote this to be published in the XDA portal by clicking the vote bottom at the top right of the first post by facdemol, he deserves recognition for his great work with this project and his others.
Very Interesting ! Good luck with the project! will be following to see what develops!
I love this. Great concept.
it took a while to charge the independent cells to the same level and to form a pack. The charge alignment is a must, otherwise, the battery back will discharge at an uneven rate among each cell. One done properly it should allow the maximum battery life and no future maintenance.
I've done some testing on it, already hooked up the hd2 to this thing, it's working properly, both charging modes, usb host etc. I guess i'll come back today with the guide and pictures to make this, it took the better part of yesterday to manually charge/discharge each of the 6 cells in the pack.
updated post 3, half of the buid is already done and operational. The battery and hub+charger module needs to be linked up to the solar panel and some of case to be built.
There are some pics and one video with the thing working. Just basic testing for now, i just finished it.
Very interesting...great job mate...
Would a usb cable work for the HD2 if there was only the data+ and data- connection? (no power goes through it, meaning the vcc and gnd pins are unused.
Thanks in advance.
It should be theoritically possible. I mean its just like if you disable power charging on your phone when it's connected to the computer.
Ok thanks for the quick reply
Going to solder a cable now.
noup, i think it won't work since the phone's usb controller is brought online only by applying +5v via usb connector. Without that, the data pins will be inactive.
oh.. bummer
Yeah it doesn't work
Sorry. I was convinced that it will work since i thought the battery will supply the energy required.
No, it do not work! I try it out with a peace of paper inside the plug to cover the outboard pins.
@Abdul9 It doesn't work because even if you disable usb charging in the phone's menu..although the battery isn't charged, power is still being supplied to hd2's motherboard. Based on the usb specifications&standards, usb clients are supposed to have some sort of +5 volt sense circuitry in order to register when voltage is applied and start their internal controller. That also consumes power, actually some 30mA are being drawn from the usb bus in order to power hd2's usb controller (or whatever part of that qualcomm snapdragon chip that is doing that).
This is also valid for any standard usb client/slave device, be it phone or something else.
motoi_bogdan said:
@Abdul9 It doesn't work because even if you disable usb charging in the phone's menu..although the battery isn't charged, power is still being supplied to hd2's motherboard. Based on the usb specifications&standards, usb clients are supposed to have some sort of +5 volt sense circuitry in order to register when voltage is applied and start their internal controller. That also consumes power, actually some 30mA are being drawn from the usb bus in order to power hd2's usb controller (or whatever part of that qualcomm snapdragon chip that is doing that).
This is also valid for any standard usb client/slave device, be it phone or something else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Old thread, but new and hot for me. I want to use my cellphone as a wifi-hotspot for my laptop on the road, but I don't want to drain my laptop's battery since it is just powerful enough for only the laptop itself during my time on the road: the extra powerconsumption by charging my cellphone-battery would be just too much. And "charging throug usb" can't be switched off in my phone. So I was thinking about cutting the +5V wire in the cable, but that appears to be a bad idea.
But what if I would build a small electronic circuit in the datacable which would limit the current through the +5Vlead to about 50mA? That would be enough to feed the USB-controller in the phone, but it would save my laptopbattery from overconsumption.
What do you think?
I've looked all over for info regarding this but I've come up sorta empty handed. I'm working on a charging dock for my Samsung Stratosphere and I was wondering if anyone had any information on the USB pinout? I'm pretty sure pin 1 is generally +5V and pin 5 is generally GND, I'm lost on the center pins though. I've checked pinout.ru and they have info on most other models, just not mine.
I'd like to expand on the idea after completing the charger on the Stratosphere. Think of it as a proof of concept
Thanks!
Center pin = Pin 3 ( right or lift ) is phone Tx pin , necessary for data transfert ...
best way to get is to find a SERvice manual , but I google about it, without find .......
So the five pins are all USB. Four are the normal ones, power, ground, Data plus, Data minus. The last pin is the trick it is the id pin. That is what tells your phone what is being connected and what mode to be in.
(This was a link to Wikipedia but I can't post. Go to Wikipedia, USB then Physical Appearance)
There is a list of the connector and its pinout. In a dock you need to make sure to connect at least power and ground. Now to get it to charge is difficult. The simplest thing that a lot of manufacturers do is short the Data plus and Data minus to signal that a charger is connected. Other phones out a precise resistor value between the ID pin and ground (or power) to signal what they are being connected to. this is something that you are going to need to do some research on.
Hi!
I bought a brand new NST on ebay, when i plugged to charger the led light up as green, dont orange. few hours later i coudnt turn on, i disassembled the nook. the battery case was torn, the voltmeter show 0,3 V, my multicharger coudnt see as a lipo battery. i bought a 3,7V 1500mAh lipo cell, i cut the "charger pcb" from the old battery, soldered to the new cell. but not working. when i plug to charger or usb the led light up green. but green without battery too. the pc show as a "omap 3630 device, but nothing too.
the new battery show :3,99V on black-red wire.
9,2 K resistance on black-yellow
99,8K resist. on the green-black with the original wiring, but nothing.
I try to solder a 10K to yellow and 30K to green resistance to ground (black) but not working this method!!! the led is green when i plug to charger with or without battery. i thing the nook cant see the battery is plugged.
can anyone measure and tell me the original battery good parameters???? yellow-black, green-black,etc. or what can i do that the nook see the battery. the original battery was LICO, china!!!!
I m live in hungary, i bought from uk, the delivery cost was 1/3 price of the nook, the re-send and re-delivery cost not return...
thanks!!!!
update: if i try to charge the battery pack via 6pin outlet with my lipo charger (red-black wire),it identify as a 3,7V lipo cell but say the "connection break" after 2 second charging. if i try to charge directly on the cell pinouts its everything ok!!!!
i cant buy a new battery in hungary now. if i soldering 10K,30K,+ and ground directly to the battery without "charging pcb" it s good idea or other solutions???
thanks
More people seem to have problems with batteries.
I'd like to see if we could get a handle on this.
Some background info:
If you plug a USB host (like a PC) into the Nook with or without a battery it should do the inital power up.
The processor finds itself powered up somehow and starts executing internal bootstrap code in ROM.
It identifies on USB as OMAP3630.
It waits around a few seconds for a command then continues.
Depending on which jumper resistors are soldered in (I'm still looking for this info),
it tries to find the primary boot loader on the SD card or the internal NAND.
The file it looks for is MLO on a FAT disk.
This file is actually x-loader, a very simple loader.
x-loader will load u-boot.bin
Here is where things get complicated.
Up until this point the processor only knows that it seems to have power.
It has not engaged enough peripherals to figure out what or how.
It's at this point that u-boot checks to see if a battery is connected,
what the temperature and voltage is.
Although from a technical point of view the Nook could boot up Android now
without a problem u-boot does not allow it.
Everybody has had that annoying situation of a dead Nook plugged into
a charger and wants to read their book but u-boot digs its heals in and says,
"No, you have to wait while I do some charging."
If you have the battery disconnected but the two sources of identification
wired around (the thermistor and the ID resistance) the Nook will try to charge.
See: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=42552349#post42552349
It will pulse on and off at about a one second cycle the charging on the battery.
If you connect an LED and a 220-1000 ohm resistor between the battery connection
point and ground you should see it flashing.
If at this point you connect just for a moment the two wires of an external LiPo battery
the display should be activated and go through the charging animation.
Remove the battery and the animation will continue.
This is proof that the Nook could be happy without any battery.
So where does this leave you with your specific problem?
The first question is whether your original battery really has a problem or just discharged.
If you tore the battery apart and couldn't even charge it without the battery protection module that might be something.
Note: I am not advocating the permanent removal of the battery protection module.
I'm just saying for the purpose of testing when you have your eyes right on the battery it's ok.
Check to see if you can get the LED above to flash.
Check if your hacking resistors are correct.
You had a McNair battery pack and the ID resistance was 100K?
I was trying to get my kernel console on the Nook working but something is screwy with it right now.
I would have liked to see if some of the printf's in u-boot were saying something.
Edit:
I just realized that you reused the old BPM from the old battery.
We haven't yet ruled that out as the problem.
Try (as an experiment) using the new battery without the BPM.
Make sure that the voltage on the battery stays between 3.5 and 4.0 V
Do not permanently install anything without the BPM!
Ok,
i cut the battery pcb (protection module) from the new cell and the 6 pin outlet.
connected the wires directly to the lipo cell as follows:
2X red wire to batt +
2x black wire to batt - (ground)
yellow wire to ground via 10K resistor
green wire to ground via 30K resistor
i connected the 6pin plug to the nook and it turned on!!!!!
i do not know that i get or make other protection module for the battery. Anyone can measure the values of R and C? I do not dare to use without module via usb or charger. i can charge the battery separated from the nook, but not the best...
i dont know whats the MCNair battery pack.
on the old battery label:
Model No.:s11ND018A REV: B
LICO, made in China
and yes, the green-ground resistance is 100K on protection module.
i cant discharge the battery with my multicharger if i connect via module. (i try 0,1 and 0,5A too,not discharge)
many thanks