Related
Hi all newcomer here ...congrats for your forum.
I received yesterday my archos 70b it2 honeycomb 3.2 tablet (yep the new 70b internet tablet ...1.2 ghz //512 ram and so on)...so if you have any questions that i can answer do post. Keep in mind although im tech shavvy this is my first android device so im not an expert. Ill try to do my best though.
I have a couple of questions for you. (keep in mind i got latest firm)
a) It seems (to my dissapointment) that the unit CANT handle youtube HD clips. I do have flash player installed and using the built in youtube app. Only way to watch youtube clips is without using hd. Is there something wrong im doing? Im finding strange that it can play 720p mkv but not youtube hd clips that are much less processor hungry.
b) When i connect the device to my pc although it seems to mount ...navigation to its folder and copying movies...its just impossible...slow-sluggish and the copy just never starts. (tried to copy an avi in videos folders ...takes forever). Is there something im doing wrong here? (usb debug is off btw). Maybe because it had low battery and i connected the usb cable to do the transfer?
Anyway in general for 199euros its not a bad tablet...screen is ok (not an ips so viewing angles arent the best) and seems solid built.
Thank you for any help (this same post is in archosfans forum)
Hmm 100+ views and none knows? Maybe i posted in wrong forum ?
Archos 70b IT
Hello, sorry you haven't gotten a reply yet...I am in America (North Carolina) and am waiting for Archos to start selling these tablets. I have the money set aside and just need somewhere to just start selling them...I stopped at HHGregg today and they didn't know what I was talking about...(they really didn't put a lot of effort in making me believe they knew what they were talking about)...anywayz...
I have no idea of problems you are having or the fix for your issues...I was just going to ask how the tablet is overall...like the screen for instance...does the screen seem as though it will be easily scratched or is it nice wipe away glass like a kindle fire? Any other info you can add would be great, it would be nice if you'd post a review of your thoughts since you've had it for over 24 hours now .
Thanks for the post, it's hard to get information for these things here...it is on their website, just not for sale there yet...
-Gig4 <><
The problem is probably in your statement - low battery, You should fully charge the battery before doing anything !
Also, the lack of replies may be due to the fact that hardly anybody has one of these devices yet.
Update
The problem with mounting was solved but doing a factory reset.(maybe the battery low was the problem)
@gig4
Screen is ok. Its not ips so the viewing angles are a bit limited but other than that i would say the screen res is fine. Colors are ok too.
The screen is a fingerprint magnet and im not sure that it would be hard enough too resist scratches. Depends on how you use the tablet i guess but i wouldnt throw it on a backpack if you asking that.
Some problems i have found.
a) Youtube hd = a big NO ...i dont know if this is a problem of honeycomb or the tablet isnt strong enough but...it just doesnt play. My net connection isnt the best but i can stream and view even 1080p at my desktop so i presume it has nothing to do with it. Wifi seems stable hadnt have any disconects. (wpa2)
b) Hdmi out...it connects to the tv but as soon i get it of the tv the tablet needs a hard reset ...(displays a white screen and cant do nothing) ...again im not sure if im doing something wrong BUT there is NO mirroring in tablet and tv...i just see the ui in the tv and tablet responds to my inputs BUT i dont see anything on it.
c) It doesnt charge to 100% ...left it overnight but went only to 99%.
d) Battery is decent...about 5-6 hours surfing / watching movies...
e) Web browsing is hit and miss again...tried 3 different browsers (dolphin hd/opera mini/stock browser) ...some sites work ...some sites doesnt load at all or just freeze...i dont know im really disapointed with android (got an iphone 4 and besides the non working flash i have zero problems surfing).
Overall the tablet is ok in specs but in real world perfomance...im not happy.
Again keep in mind this is my first android device but i would call my self quick learner...
PS flash was installed in all my tests.
The reason that Youtube HD (Flash) does not work is that Flash on Gen8 devices relies solely on the CPU and is not designed specifically for Gen8's, unlike Archos' Video application which uses the DSP (and possibly other components) to do hardware acceleration.
If you want to watch HD quality videos from Youtube on your 70b, I would suggest an application that allows you to download the video file and use Archos' Video application. The app I use for this purpose is Tubemate:
devian7.iisweb.co.kr/download.jsp
(You will have to copy and paste the link in your browser.)
The link is to the developers webpage and offers an apk download so the Android Market is not necessary.
The Gen8's can handle any of the different formats that can be downloaded with Tubemate, with the exception of 1080p.
In regards to the HDMI out:
If the 70b works like the older Gen8's, then the displays do not mirror each other. The external display shows the UI and the tablet acts as a giant (laptop-like) touchpad.
In regards to the browser:
With my Gen8 101, the stock browser works well if plugins is set to on demand and if I am not opening too many tabs/windows that have a lot of pictures (high RAM usage). Other browsers should function well if set to the same settings (Dolphin HD worked about the same when I used to use it).
Also battery life should be better with the plugins set to on demand.
In regards to the battery:
I assume that the reason it doesn't charge to "100%" is due to the firmware. Older Gen8's would charge to "100%" on older firmware versions, while the same devices on newer firmware only charges to "99%". From what I have read, the difference is irrelevant because the difference only shows up when it is charging. i.e. It says it is charged to "99%" while plugged in, but when unplugged it shows a "100%" charge.
thanks...I appreciate the reply.
And for the browser, this most of the time comes from the stupid f... that has done the webpage.
If you don't change the Useragent in your browser, the Website knows that you come from an Android browser.
As most ignorant Webdevs still have no clue that there is someone else then IE,FF or IPhone they sometimes do strange things.
Try to set the Useragent to either Desktop or IPhone and see the changes.
i have this tablet
it is very good for the transport in paris
it is better that the 70 it
i have no problem with HDMi
I'll ask the question again.
Does anyone know if the data transmission speed of wifi radio in the new 70b IT has also been knee capped at a very low 54 megabytes/sec utilizing 802.11n protocol, like all the other Archos Gen 8 devices?
Given that the processor achitecture of the 70 IT and 70b IT are apparently the same (single core ARM Cortex A8), when will Archos push Honeycomb out to the Gen 8 devices?
Also it has been suggested that the new 70b IT OS will be updated to ICS in February. Will the Gen 8 devices get this. And if not, why not?
See that
http://www.jbmm.fr/2012/01/archos70bit-chiffres-tests/
for ICS on this model 70b ? perhaps....
I don't believe the wifi has been ' kneecapped' or nobbled in any way - 54 mbps is the maximum speed for the hardware, it uses wireless n standards and is compatable with wireless n, it is not dual band and only operates at 2.4 ghz, the higher speed of wireless n are obtained using 5.0ghz band, this is my understanding of it, and as you point out that the 2 devices share the same hardware, It's safe to assume the speed will be the same, it certainly seems to be the same on both of mine, but my 70b is a froyo device so can't definitively speak for the 'honeycomb' version.
As the early release 70b, 512mb ram, higher res screen etc... is not getting the honeycomb update due to incompatability, I think it's safe to say the 70IT will definitely not get it, as for ICS - I have seen no such indication from any credible source that this is likely, unless you are refering to dev roms, in which case there are already both 'honeycomb' and 'ICS' roms in the works
Hey there, As the title states, just wanting to do some emulator game playing on my TV and figured my Nexus 10 would work great.
I got the bluetooth controllers up and running pretty easily, and the games run great on the tablet itself, but when I pop in the HDMI cable the FPS immediately drops (especially on N64 games) and the games become borderline unplayable. Unplug the HDMI cable mid game and everything is back to normal. I assume this has something to do with scaling to two different resolutions, but I'm not sure if there is some fix/workaround (either turning off the tablet display or scaling the tablet display maybe?). Any recommendations would be great!
Hi,
I face this same issue with NOVA launcher, it works okay on tablet, but when on HDMI it gets very laggy. I don't know a solution, however you might want to still try changing screen's resolution, to do as such, type on a terminal emulator:
Code:
su
wm size 1920x1080 (I'm assuming you have a FullHD TV)
wm density 220
This will change the resolution of your tablet screen, if you want to go back, type:
Code:
su
wm size reset
wm density reset
Good luck,
~Lord
"Time is too short to cry, long enough to try." - March of Time (Helloween)
Sent from my KitKat Nexus 10
Hello all,
I just wanted to let all who are interested know that the MyGica A681 USB stick works 100%. I have it hooked up to one of those flat window mount antennas and it receives full HD signal that I view through the PadTV app found on Play Store. The PadTV app lacks in a lot of ways, it would be cool if someone around here was able to come up with something better. A few of the channels have a major A/V delay but it may be due to reception and not the tuner stick or app. Overall, it was a very worthwhile purchase for me, if anyone has any questions let me know.
Hopefully this is useful information for a cord-cutter somewhere. I'm not in any way affiliated with MyGica, just a fellow MOJO owner who couldn't find any info on a TV Tuner stick that would work with our boxes so I took the dive on my own.
Thanks buddy, this is a great discovery!
AndroidSupaFan said:
Thanks buddy, this is a great discovery!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem. I've pretty much been doing a lot of my own discovering what works since there's not much documentation for our devices. Like I said in my first post, it would be awesome if someone around here was able to come up with something better for a channel surfing app. PadTV gets the job done, but it's certainly not the prettiest. I forgot to mention that it also does DVR, but one of my issues is that it will only save to internal storage and not something like an external drive or an SD card. The channel info/current episode descriptions are several hours behind. If theres a button on my remote for Channel +/-, I haven't found it. You have to use your mouse to bring up and scroll through channels. Again, it gets the job done, I can watch 39 or so OTA channels, and quite a few of which are HD. It's just not the most MOJO friendly UI, since it was intended for phones.
Some other things I use daily that work 100%: Ouya controller (as 2nd controller), Plugables brand 7x USB 3.0 hub, & a Rii Mini i8 keyboard. Obviously stuff like my Logitech Bluetooth receiver that I run to my stereo also works to receive audio from MOJO. My USB wired Logitech PC game controller works great as well.
Just trying to help fellow XDA'ers and Googlers not worry about compatibility before they order something like I did. That said, most if not all of my worries were completely unfounded because everything I've thrown at the MOJO so far works like a charm!
Would a wired XBox 360 controller work?
psxfa said:
Would a wired XBox 360 controller work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have one to test but I'm 99% sure it would.
I'd just like to clarify a point: it may sound like nitpicking, but it's not the PadTV app that works; it's the PadTV-HD app. The standard PadTV just says it can't find a device.
That being said, the little MyGica is a little giant. I live in a fringe reception area, for decent reception I need a huge rooftop antenna, but this little thumb-drive-sized receiver still picks up a round dozen stations on the 10-cm piece of coat hanger wire it comes with. Yes, the weaker stations have audio lag problems; I hope a better antenna fixes that. It also costs about half what other similar units do, and most of them work on windows only.
I tried a few of the other TV apps on Play Store but the PadTV-HD was the only one that recognized the A681. I didn't find it all that bad an interface, except that the sidebars won't stay in place longer than a couple seconds, and I couldn't find a setting for that. It also lacks a volume control, as the MOJO itself does, so you must hope you have some control somewhere else. And there is no info in the EPG (electronic program guide) even though it appears to have that function. But I was able to find and watch several different channels without any real problems; except, of course, that TV programming in general sucks. Unless you're a sports fan.
So thanks, @tideee88, for the heads-up here!
kevinthefixer said:
I'd just like to clarify a point: it may sound like nitpicking, but it's not the PadTV app that works; it's the PadTV-HD app. The standard PadTV just says it can't find a device.
That being said, the little MyGica is a little giant. I live in a fringe reception area, for decent reception I need a huge rooftop antenna, but this little thumb-drive-sized receiver still picks up a round dozen stations on the 10-cm piece of coat hanger wire it comes with. Yes, the weaker stations have audio lag problems; I hope a better antenna fixes that. It also costs about half what other similar units do, and most of them work on windows only.
I tried a few of the other TV apps on Play Store but the PadTV-HD was the only one that recognized the A681. I didn't find it all that bad an interface, except that the sidebars won't stay in place longer than a couple seconds, and I couldn't find a setting for that. It also lacks a volume control, as the MOJO itself does, so you must hope you have some control somewhere else. And there is no info in the EPG (electronic program guide) even though it appears to have that function. But I was able to find and watch several different channels without any real problems; except, of course, that TV programming in general sucks. Unless you're a sports fan.
So thanks, @tideee88, for the heads-up here!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, thank you for mentioning that it is in fact the PadTV HD app. Hope I didn't cause anyone any confusion. I also had no luck trying other tuner apps and I tried literally every one available on Play Store (including non-ATSC ones) and even tried sideloading a few because I dislike PadTV HD so much.
I agree that the MyGica stick is a great little device. I'm really impressed with it when it's able to do it's thing properly. I never tried the dinky little antenna it came with, I ordered a 25-mile distance flat window-mount antenna and it gets me about 39 channels here in Pittsburgh, PA. Lots of them are HD, and look and sound great. However, many of the Play Store reviews for PadTV HD seem to indicate that the slow motion, lag, and stuttering are a result of the app not taking advantage of hardware acceleration and thus is trying to encode 1080p on the fly via software rendering or something to that effect. Other than the mild inconveniences of things like not having a dedicated button for CH +/- and as you noted, the channel info being totally useless, it's a real bummer that I can't even get the channels I could be getting if it weren't for a poorly written app that is unfortunately our only option at the moment. I feel as though this is a real hole that could be filled with the rate at which Android set top boxes are becoming popular.
I mostly purchased this because the only time I ever need to watch broadcast TV is when my Steelers are on and hence have no use to pay for cable. I'm really hoping we have a new app sorted out before football season because FOX is one of the channels that currently comes in very laggy and out of sync for me at the moment.
Your MOJO doesn't have volume control, though? It certainly should. Do the hardkeys not work on your C.T.R.L.R.? Android system volume works perfect for me in all apps. Failing that, I've found you can change the volume in Pad TV HD by clicking somewhere in the video frame and dragging your mouse up or down, like a swipe if it were touch. Hopefully that helps!
tideee88 said:
Yes, thank you for mentioning that it is in fact the PadTV HD app. Hope I didn't cause anyone any confusion. I also had no luck trying other tuner apps and I tried literally every one available on Play Store (including non-ATSC ones) and even tried sideloading a few because I dislike PadTV HD so much.
I agree that the MyGica stick is a great little device. I'm really impressed with it when it's able to do it's thing properly. I never tried the dinky little antenna it came with, I ordered a 25-mile distance flat window-mount antenna and it gets me about 39 channels here in Pittsburgh, PA. Lots of them are HD, and look and sound great. However, many of the Play Store reviews for PadTV HD seem to indicate that the slow motion, lag, and stuttering are a result of the app not taking advantage of hardware acceleration and thus is trying to encode 1080p on the fly via software rendering or something to that effect. Other than the mild inconveniences of things like not having a dedicated button for CH +/- and as you noted, the channel info being totally useless, it's a real bummer that I can't even get the channels I could be getting if it weren't for a poorly written app that is unfortunately our only option at the moment. I feel as though this is a real hole that could be filled with the rate at which Android set top boxes are becoming popular.
I mostly purchased this because the only time I ever need to watch broadcast TV is when my Steelers are on and hence have no use to pay for cable. I'm really hoping we have a new app sorted out before football season because FOX is one of the channels that currently comes in very laggy and out of sync for me at the moment.
Your MOJO doesn't have volume control, though? It certainly should. Do the hardkeys not work on your C.T.R.L.R.? Android system volume works perfect for me in all apps. Failing that, I've found you can change the volume in Pad TV HD by clicking somewhere in the video frame and dragging your mouse up or down, like a swipe if it were touch. Hopefully that helps!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try the volume control thing. I'm using CM12.1 and maybe it has a volume control somewhere but I haven't found it yet, I'm used to hardware switches. I'm not using the CTRLR either, just a keyboard & mouse. I'm still working on display resolution problems, as I don't really have the right display hardware for the MOJO, and it's picky that way. I'm about to give up entirely on the powered HDMI-2-VGA adapter to the 1280x1024 computer monitor, too unreliable even just in Android. Neither it nor the HDMI-2-DVI cable to the old Dell monitor will display at all in recovery, for that I have to commandeer the living room and the only true HDMI display in the house, which is a projector--not the best setup for tweaking a device. Still doing my homework on tweaking TWRP to 720P which I hope will solve that problem.
kevinthefixer said:
I'll try the volume control thing. I'm using CM12.1 and maybe it has a volume control somewhere but I haven't found it yet, I'm used to hardware switches. I'm not using the CTRLR either, just a keyboard & mouse. I'm still working on display resolution problems, as I don't really have the right display hardware for the MOJO, and it's picky that way. I'm about to give up entirely on the powered HDMI-2-VGA adapter to the 1280x1024 computer monitor, too unreliable even just in Android. Neither it nor the HDMI-2-DVI cable to the old Dell monitor will display at all in recovery, for that I have to commandeer the living room and the only true HDMI display in the house, which is a projector--not the best setup for tweaking a device. Still doing my homework on tweaking TWRP to 720P which I hope will solve that problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm running a rooted stock rom via HDMI so I'm not sure about your display issues as I haven't had any. But I use a bluetooth keyboard/mouse most of the time and the volume hardkeys work on that as well. If your keyboard has volume hardkeys and they don't work, it may be some sort of issue with your rom. AFAIK, my keyboard's drivers are just generic Windows ones.
tideee88 said:
I'm running a rooted stock rom via HDMI so I'm not sure about your display issues as I haven't had any. But I use a bluetooth keyboard/mouse most of the time and the volume hardkeys work on that as well. If your keyboard has volume hardkeys and they don't work, it may be some sort of issue with your rom. AFAIK, my keyboard's drivers are just generic Windows ones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same display issues regardless of ROM. AFAIK there are only four, and I tried them all. (This is a very rare instance of me following my own advice: try all the different flavors before deciding on a favorite.) Several people have reported similar issues while in system but I think I'm unique in the recovery problem. Changing the resolution by editing the build.prop improved my display in system but did nothing in recovery; I will just have to carry the MOJO into the living room whenever I need to use recovery, which shouldn't be that often. The bright side is that I learned to unpack and repack recovery images.
My keyboard is a wired mini with no extra room for media keys, but it does have a third control key (FN) to emulate them. But I can't see the blue-on-black icons to use them unless the room is brightly lit! Volume control is not a biggie for me though, I run the audio through a seventies-vintage amp and speakers. I pity those who grew up with "modern" surround sound, satellite speakers and a single subwoofer. My setups often fool both myself and the dogs, we can't tell if the noise is outside the open door or inside the TV.
BTW Windows keyboard drivers won't work on Android, but it's such a low-level thing they are just included in the kernel. Somewhere in the ROM is a keyboard map that can be edited (with root of course), but I misremember where. I never had to remap a keyboard.
PadTV HD app no longer works for me as of the latest update. For anyone considering purchasing a tuner, I recommend against it. Flushed $40 down the toilet.
If you'd like I'll send you the old version, I'll just need to save it then upload it. You'd just have to uninstall the newer version then sideload the old one and not allow it to update. Just PM me.
kevinthefixer said:
If you'd like I'll send you the old version, I'll just need to save it then upload it. You'd just have to uninstall the newer version then sideload the old one and not allow it to update. Just PM me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you please send me the version that works?
Software Section
Performance/Power Setting
I have been intrigued with the "performance/power" section of the settings on the Shield k1. I only got my tablet just a few days ago but have already found some things I didn't see mentioned on XDA. I'm sure this stuff is all over the forum buried somewhere, but I didn't see it mentioned so I figured I would post it for those interested. In this section I am going to show the minimum and maximum processor states for each mode under "Performance/Power" in the settings app. Before posting I would like to point out that whatever you choose for these settings are system wide and override EVERYTHING else that you try to use, such as app optimization or even gltools. If you set "Limit Frame Rate" under custom to 20, nothing will get you more than 20 fps in any game. Even if you command it higher with app optimization or some other way. This also applies to watching videos or anything system wide, so be aware.
Max performance
Min = 1224 mhz
Max = 2218 mhz
Optimized <------------ Most people should use this
Min = 204 mhz
Max = 2218 mhz
Battery Saver
Min = 204 mhz
Max = 1530 mhz
Custom **
Min = 1122 mhz
Max = 2218
**Custom turns out to be the worst choice of the bunch. First off the "CPU Cores" setting does absolutely zero. You can set the cores to 2, 3, or 4, and no matter what, 4 cores will always run. It does nothing to disable the cores. One thing to note here is that when you start disabling cores, there WILL be an impact on benchmarks even though the cores aren't turning off. I am not sure exactly what's happening here, but something is going on with the frequencies or something that I cannot detect. Next is the "CPU Frequency" which does work, however setting it to the lowest possible setting will only net you a minimum processor state of 1122 mhz, much higher than you can get in the other options. So this would not help you in any way for battery life. The max processor speed doesn't go any higher than the others either, so there is no advantage (battery life or performance) to using custom. The final section of custom is "Limit Frame Rate" and it works as well. However, limiting the frame rate is something that is usually done to conserve battery life, but since you are stuck with a rather high minimum processing speed (1122 mhz), then any battery life you may gain from the lowered FPS will be lost with the processor drain. Your best bet is to set the processor state to "optimized" as it has the lowest AND highest achievable clock speeds (for best battery life and performance) and then turn the FPS down under app optimization if needed.
App Optimization Setting <------------ Most people should leave this setting untouched (disabled)
All settings under app optimization work as expected except of course the Max CPU cores again. It does nothing. The Frequency limit does work as well as the frame rate limit. All options works as expected except turning off the cores. For the most performance and battery life it would be best to use the "optimized" power plan from above, and then go into the app optimization and turn down the Max CPU frequency as far as you can without experiencing lag. You can also adjust the resolution if the loss in quality doesn't bother you. I personally don't touch anything in app optimization. I play pretty graphic intensive games so need my processor cores to run at 100% because I hate lag. I also don't like running LCDs at anything other than native resolution so I don't adjust that. Frame rate limit is a waste as the panel automatically caps it to 60 (the max it can display) and I want to see as many frames as possible.
That leaves "Optimize System Memory". This has been a hard one to benchmark, but here is what I've noticed. With this setting enabled it seems that I lose 2-4 frames when the tablet gets loaded up. If you run an FPS monitor you will notice that occasionally the FPS will dip when too much is going on. Well when these dips happen and "Optimize System Memory" is enabled, I find that it dips lower by a few frames.
I almost exclusively do not touch app optimization. The only time I would use this is for a game that took very little resources to run (PVZ2). I would turn the processor clocks down to 50% to conserve battery, but that is about the only use I see for it.
GLTools
This is what I use to monitor FPS. I have been unable to squeeze any extra performance out of any game using this. The only thing this app can do to help frames is reduce resolution, but you can do that with the "app optimization" section in the main settings. This app does many other things for compatibility, but they aren't useful to me at this time. I just use it to monitor FPS, as FPS METER crashes the tablet in both the rooted and non-rooted versions. I was really hoping that forcing anti-aliasing to off in the games would help with the frames, but it appears to do nothing. I suspect that most of the games for android don't have anti-aliasing to begin with, which is why turning it off doesn't seem to help. Bummer.
Gamestream
I have figured out a way to get gamestream to work with zero lag. It's as if my PC was connected directly to the TV and sitting on the floor below it. I cannot tell that the PC is in another room and broadcasting over wifi. I have a decent home network, but nothing special. When I first set it all up there was so much input lag that I considered it unplayable. I have since figured out why and it's perfect. I can't even believe it every time I use it, it's almost too good to be true. The trick is that you need to pair your controller directly to the PC and not the tablet, this will eliminate the lag. When I paired the Xbox One controller directly to the Shield K1 over bluetooth, the controls would work, but there was noticeable input lag if too many inputs where happening in a short time. I then bought the wireless adapter for the controller and paired it directly to my PC via wifi and the problems were solved. This is another great thing about the new Xbox One controller, it has both wifi direct and bluetooth so you can use either.
Zero lag setup:
Mid-high grade AC router
Comcast 30mbps cable internet connection
Router connected to PC via cat 6
5ghz signal to the Shield K1
Xbox One controller paired directly to the PC via wifi
"Game mode" enabled in TV settings
With the above setup I have a 1ms delay which isn't detectable to my eye. Gamestream works better than I expected and I plan on using it quite a bit. Geforce Now looks interesting, but I have no intentions of doing any testing with it. I don't like monthly fees and I have tried streaming services in the past; there is just too much delay for me.
Hardware Section
Dual Shock 4
What a mess. This is one of the best controllers money can buy. It's comfortable, it has a touch pad, the analog sticks are amazing, excellent d-pad, it has the highest quality build, it's rechargeable, and it just doesn't work with android.... If you try to connect the controller directly through the bluetooth section in settings, it will connect and then within 30 seconds be lagging like crazy. I then installed "sixaxis controller" (requires root) and connected that way. Controller worked almost perfect with this app and it let me totally customize the controller. However some things were still broken. For example in the game Half-Life 2 Episode One, the d-pad doesn't function correctly. No matter what I try to do to the mappings, it just won't work right. It works in some menus, but not most. Too bad because this is a really great controller. One last thing to note. I connected this to my S7 Edge running Nougat (hoping that the new native gamepad support would do something) and it connected right away. However the controller did absolutely nothing. I could see that it was connected and it showed up in the bluetooth menu, but no buttons would respond and games wouldn't detect it. Too bad.
Nvidia Shield Controller (1st gen)
I did not test this controller for a very specific reason; it does not use bluetooth. All of the big-name companies have moved over to bluetooth. Sony has always used it, Microsoft just added it, and even the next Nvidia Shield controller is bluetooth. The bluetooth option has lower bandwidth and less range than the wifi controllers, but is more power efficient. Who needs a controller that can stay connected at 200 feet when you can't even see the TV from that far? LOL There also seems to be zero difference in latency between the wifi and bluetooth variants, so I would pick a bluetooth controller for the energy savings.
Amazon Fire TV Controller (1st gen)
Well this thing sucks. I got this when I purchased my first Amazon Fire TV and use it occasionally. I hooked it up to the Shield for testing and I was not impressed. The d-pad likes to click multiple directions at a time (even when you are extra careful), I literally had it register an up and a down at the same time LOL. Not only this but the trigger buttons for some reason have compatibility problems with a lot of games, sometimes the controller randomly loses connection and you have to pull the batteries for 30 seconds to get it reconnected, the thing just sucks. It's something you use when you just want to play a quick game on your Amazon TV or hand it to a little kid to play some games for a bit, it's not to be taken seriously. Oh and the "dead zones" on the sticks are way to wide. You can move the stick about 25% in any direction before anything responds on screen. And sometimes for no reason at all there will be delay between button presses. Just stay away from this one, seriously.
Xbox One S Controller (bluetooth)
Well this controller comes in at a close second to the Dual Shock 4, but has one major advantage; it works. You power this thing on, hit the connect button, and connect it straight to the tablet in the settings menu under bluetooth. That's it. No special apps or mapping problems, or lag, or stutters. It works exactly like it would on an Xbox. You hold the home button and it auto connects to the tablet and when you are done you hold the home button and the light goes out and it powers down. All mapping is done for you and everything works perfectly (new info below). The analog sticks are great, the new d-pad is a ton better than the old 360 one, it's nice and clicky now. This is a great controller and it's on sale right now everywhere for $49.99 so you should pick one up. Also, if you plan on gaming a lot you may want to get the rechargeable battery unless you like buying a ton of AA batteries and swapping them out. These new controllers charge with a standard micro USB cable, so it's super convenient to get the charging pack.
**update**
Turns out this setup isn't exactly perfect either. It may be an Android 6.0 problem though because it doesn't act like this on my s7e running 7.0, who knows. Everything works as described above, but if you reboot the tablet, toggle bluetooth, or enter console mode (VERY annoying) the controller will need to be deleted and paired again. It wouldn't be such a big deal if console mode didn't trigger it because you can avoid rebooting and toggling bluetooth, but the console mode thing is a huge inconvenience. I really hope this gets fixed, either by android or microsoft updates because it really messes up an almost perfect controller experience. Also, to properly pair the controller you have to use the pairing button at the top. When you first power on the controller with the xbox button it will try to pair with the tablet, don't let it and instead hold the connect button on top of the controller to enter pairing mode (the light will flash fast) and then select the controller from the bluetooth list to pair. If you don't do it this way, the controller will never actually talk to the tablet.
Dual Shock 3
It's a Dual Shock 4 without a touchpad so it has the same issues.
Nvidia Shield Controller (2nd gen)<------------------ Buy this controller
I just purchased the new Shield TV and it came with this controller. What a great controller this one is, definitely rivals the Xbox and Sony controllers for quality and performance. However this has one major advantage over the other two, it works perfectly with the Shield Tablet, Shield TV, and any other bluetooth device that you want to connect it to (as long as it isn't a PC lol). This brings me to the one single problem with this controller, it doesn't work right with PC, yet. When you connect it to a PC via bluetooth, it connects just fine and actually does work, however the mappings are wrong so when you push up on the left analog stick it registers as a trigger pull or something. I have a ticket opened to get this controller fixed for PC so I'm sure it won't be long before they fix it or I fix it myself. I am trying to find the config file on my PC that generates when you install this controller, then I could fix the mappings myself. Unfortunately this makes Gamestream unusable as the input lag is just too much for me when connecting straight to the tablet. Once the mapping is fixed this controller will be flawless for any Shield device, Android device, or even as a full time PC controller. Even though this controller has the mapping problem, it does eliminate the bluetooth glitch that the Xbox controller has (where if you toggle bluetooth it has to be re-paired to the tablet), so that effectively makes it the number one choice for controllers at this time. It also has a capacitive volume slider built into the face of the controller and is rechargeable right out of the box as well. So far the battery life has been insane. I never even charged it when I took it out of the box Thursday and have been using it multiple times a day for at least an hour each time and it still has over 50% charge. It doesn't look like it has lost a percent honestly lol The controller also powers down automatically after you don't touch it for five minutes and then when you pick it up it auto powers up and reconnects for you.
Game Specific Section
Order & Chaos 2
O&C2 is a beast of a game, it's like the Crysis for mobile. The game doesn't even look that amazing, I think it is just poorly optimized (just like Crysis), at least Crysis is beautiful though. The game has a hard cap at 30 fps, so don't expect any more than that no matter what you do to the settings. I have found through my testing that the best mix of visual and performance is the following:
In game settings:
Graphics profile = Optimal
Render scale = 100%
Frame rate limitation = 30
Crowd control = slider all the way up
Dead Effect 2
This is one of the best looking mobile games to date and is optimized for Nvidia, which is great for us. This game actually looks almost as good as Crysis, but doesn't run as poorly. It has been optimized very well. There also happens to be a lot of graphical adjustment in the settings which allows for fine tuning. Through testing I have found the game to look amazing and run 45-60 fps (no matter how much action on screen) with the following settings:
In game settings:
Visual Quality = Custom
Shader Quality = Medium
Effect Quality = Medium
Model Quality = High
Texture Quality = Full
Shadow Quality = Low
Bloom = Low
Plants Vs Zombies 2
Pvz2 also has a hard cap of 30 FPS and there is no adjustment of the graphics in the settings menu. I have found that the game runs at a locked 30 FPS even with the processor at 50%, so this is where I leave it to conserve battery life.
App optimization settings:
Performance Setting = Custom
Max CPU Cores = 4
Max CPU Frequency = 50%
Frame Rate Limit = Off
Resolution Rendering = Native
Optimize System Memory = Off
Real Racing 3
Real Racing 3 runs pretty well. Most of the time the FPS stays locked at 60, but when there is a lot going on it can dip to 30 or just below. There are no in game graphics adjustments and I wouldn't turn the processor down at all because you will need full power when there are 10+ cars on the screen.
Do not adjust.
Doom 3
It's funny I remember 10 or more years ago when Doom 3 came out and I was upset that my PC couldn't run it LOL Now we can play it on a tablet that fits in our pocket. Anyway, I couldn't do much testing with this game as GLTools wouldn't show the FPS, it glitched out when I enabled it. The game has no graphical adjustment in it's setting as well and I wouldn't reccommend turning the processor down in app optimization without being able to confirm the impact. Game runs great though. The only issue I found was popping through my bluetooth headset, that could have been the headset.
Do not adjust.
Oceanhorn
What a great little game this is, really reminds me of Zelda. This game is very well optimized and never misses a beat. It looks and plays fantastic. I would like to see more quality games like this come out in the future, this kind of stuff can give consoles a run for their money. I have the in game settings turned all the way up and the processor set to 50% in app optimization and the FPS never dips more than a couple frames. This is a game that everyone should check out.
App optimization settings:
Performance Setting = Custom
Max CPU Cores = 4
Max CPU Frequency = 50%
Frame Rate Limit = Off
Resolution Rendering = Native
Optimize System Memory = Off
Pretty useful information, thanks bro
Good to see your reference to order and chaos 2, it's the only game I enjoy playing. I have bought a shield basically to stop hammering my Galaxy S7's battery all the time.
crash_194 said:
Good to see your reference to order and chaos 2, it's the only game I enjoy playing. I have bought a shield basically to stop hammering my Galaxy S7's battery all the time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's my main game, I play every day. You can squeeze a lot more performance out of the game if you start to reduce the graphics quality, but I'm big on visuals.
I have in my possession an Xbox One S controller, Dualshock 3, DualShock 4, and an Amazon controller. I will be doing a comparison in one of my reserved posts above. I also just downloaded Half-Life 2 episode 1 and was doing some testing with gamestream last night as well. I will be adding information about all of that as soon.
seh6183 said:
That's my main game, I play every day. You can squeeze a lot more performance out of the game if you start to reduce the graphics quality, but I'm big on visuals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
O&C2 is a very good looking game, I hate to reduce the visual quality too much. I do think crowd control needs a happy medium though as it can get rather chaotic when loads of people start letting off AOE attacks.
I tried playing the game on a 2013 nexus 7 which I also own, it just doesn't have enough grunt though unfortunately and is an absolute lag fest. Can't wait for the K1 to land hopefully later this week.
crash_194 said:
O&C2 is a very good looking game, I hate to reduce the visual quality too much. I do think crowd control needs a happy medium though as it can get rather chaotic when loads of people start letting off AOE attacks.
I tried playing the game on a 2013 nexus 7 which I also own, it just doesn't have enough grunt though unfortunately and is an absolute lag fest. Can't wait for the K1 to land hopefully later this week.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I couldn't squeeze any more frames out with crowd control, where do you suggest I test to do this? Also would you mean by wait for the K1 to land?
seh6183 said:
I couldn't squeeze any more frames out with crowd control, where do you suggest I test to do this? Also would you mean by wait for the K1 to land?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I only just ordered one the other day mate and I'm waiting for it to arrive! Lol I'm a bit slow on the uptake I'm just speaking from experience of O&C2 on my Galaxy S7 at the minute.
crash_194 said:
I only just ordered one the other day mate and I'm waiting for it to arrive! Lol I'm a bit slow on the uptake I'm just speaking from experience of O&C2 on my Galaxy S7 at the minute.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gotcha, I just got mine the other day too. I would root it immediately if I were you because it wipes the device and I had to download all my games again. It took me like 3 minutes to unlock the bootloader, flash custom recovery, and root it. Great device. I use an s7 edge and the performance is comparable, but the k1 edges it out. However you won't be playing on your s7 much anymore lol. Once you get used to the 8 inch and the speakers, your phone will feel like a joke, I laugh when I pick it up haha. I only use it as a last resort. The k1 fits into my back pocket so I have it with me most of the time.
seh6183 said:
Gotcha, I just got mine the other day too. I would root it immediately if I were you because it wipes the device and I had to download all my games again. It took me like 3 minutes to unlock the bootloader, flash custom recovery, and root it. Great device. I use an s7 edge and the performance is comparable, but the k1 edges it out. However you won't be playing on your s7 much anymore lol. Once you get used to the 8 inch and the speakers, your phone will feel like a joke, I laugh when I pick it up haha. I only use it as a last resort. The k1 fits into my back pocket so I have it with me most of the time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is good to hear! At the risk of going off topic, are you using a case and screen protector? If so, what sorts?
crash_194 said:
That is good to hear! At the risk of going off topic, are you using a case and screen protector? If so, what sorts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nvidia folding cover and stylus on the way.
I have been using the stylus and the flip cover for over a week now and they are both great. The cover is necessary really as there is no way to prop the tablet up without it. I usually yank it off when I am gaming or holding the tablet with one hand (that's what's great about magnets), but leave it on as protection when moving around and to prop it up for viewing. The stylus isn't nearly as good as a Wacom stylus, but works well enough and I definitely find it useful for web browsing or editing a picture.
Also, I have purchased both the Microsoft Folding Keyboard and Logitech Ultrathin Touch Mouse for when I need to do some serious editing or school work. Every human being should buy that mouse immediately at the very least. The keyboard is optional as Googles voice dictation works nearly flawless, almost negating the need for a keyboard, but that mouse, buy it. The top surface of the mouse doubles as a touch pad and works great for android. I can control the entire tablet 5 feet away at work with one finger or at home 15 feet away when it's connected to the TV. Check out the reviews for it, it's definitely worth it.
Anyone play sky force reloaded?
_-..zKiLLA..-_ said:
Anyone play sky force reloaded?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No but that looks like some good Ole fashioned fun right there lol
seh6183 said:
No but that looks like some good Ole fashioned fun right there lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's amazing. It's gets very hectic though and can be laggy on some devices. I get my k1 tomorrow so my fingers are crossed lol
_-..zKiLLA..-_ said:
It's amazing. It's gets very hectic though and can be laggy on some devices. I get my k1 tomorrow so my fingers are crossed lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The k1 is a fricken beast and you have nothing to worry about lol
Guide updated with core information and Shield 2017 controller addition.
Really informative post seh6183.
Thank you. I also bought the new controller (kept the NSTV V1 as for now it's the same as the V2)
Last month I bought a cheap Chinese 4k android TV and for the last weeks it has been great.
However I recently bought a PS5 and it is basicly stuck at 1080p forever unless I restart the TV every time I want to game.
The only way I get the PS5 to output 4k to the TV is on the first time after a cold boot of the TV. At this state everything is working really well (4k HDR everything).
Now if I turn the PS5 off and power it on again, it reports it can only do 1080p and the option for 4k is greyed out and the only way to fix it is to reboot the whole TV.
As you could imagine this is totally driving me crazy. (By the way the same Symptoms apply to other 4k capable devices such as a Fire TV Stick I had laying around)
The TV settings are also completely useless and there are no options regarding "UHD Color" or resolution.
If someone has any ideas on how to fix this I would be really happy.
Thank you in advance.
So I fiddled with the settings a bit and stumbled across a greyed out setting called "HDMI-EDID Version" which was set to "AUTO-EDID" but since this is a greyed out setting I could not change it in any way.
Then after countless hours of searching in the Internet and tempted to buy an HDMI EDID emulator, I found someone who had similar issues with a shield TV and a projector. He used adb and "bugreport" to find out about the EDID capabilities of his TV and so did I.
So now after generating the bug report using adb and searching for EDID, I found this line:
"settings/global/tv_input_hdmi_edid_version" which was set to "2" by default.
So fair enough I executed the command:
adb shell settings put global tv_input_hdmi_edid_version 1
And the greyed out setting now shows "EDID-2.0" and everything is working as it should and no more restarting of the TV is required to get 4K HDR from the PS5.
So it seems like it was indeed a firmware issue or more or less a broken auto EDID feature.