Database Users

Things You Don't Like About The Touch HD

Let me start off, I've got to say that the Touch HD is an awesome bit of kit. There's just 1 thing I don't like about it and that's the way the stylus is held in. I don't think it's held securely enough, a couple of times I have pulled the phone out of the pouch and the stylus has also managed to come out.

there is nothing that i don't like about the blackstone.....
only one thing the processor could be 5000 GHZ .......

Its not something i hate.. but its the only downside i find compared to the iPhone.. multitouch.. but then again... i knew it didnt have one.. and MY GOD this kicks iphones ass!
cheers!

ageorgiou1984 said:
Let me start off, I've got to say that the Touch HD is an awesome bit of kit. There's just 1 thing I don't like about it and that's the way the stylus is held in. I don't think it's held securely enough, a couple of times I have pulled the phone out of the pouch and the stylus has also managed to come out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have the same, i already lost 1 stylus because of it

Cbxu said:
i have the same, i already lost 1 stylus because of it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont mind losing the stylus.. i dont use it anyways

volume keys
give me the wheel back from the m3100 (hermes) damn site more usable!

menu's in WM6
Give us the menu's from WM6 instead of having to press several icons to get to the same item.
Direct to something is better than fiddling and wasting time!

The phone is the greatest, my only complaint is that it was a shock coming from the diamond as the screen on the diamond is excellent, the colors are really rich and the blacks are black where as the HD is a beautiful screen but a wee bit washed out.
After using the HD for a week now I am really happy with everything, even the screen as long as I don't look at the Diamond.

Things You Don't Like About The Touch HD
No camera bottom
Volume bottoms is to sensitive
Back panel squirks
But i still love the phone

HTC
That HTC spent a little more time, to iron out small issue's - instead of leaving it to dedicated peeps on the forum, like this....
Had better customer support as currently - discusting!

crystal_clear said:
Give us the menu's from WM6 instead of having to press several icons to get to the same item.
Direct to something is better than fiddling and wasting time!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
bro remember wm is highly customizable! i use QuickMenu you should check it out!
http://www.alensw.com/attachment/QuickMenu_en_2.7.rar
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screen taken with MyMobiler

is it....
foolproof????

thats a kinda objective question

There hasn't been a phone made that is perfect for everybody.
​

Things I don't like about the touch HD
Video recording, only QVGA
Back cover, should be smooth without that metal thing
The reset button inside the cover, should be outside
The headphones that came with it are useless, to big to fit my ears
When recording calls our voice gets recorded very loud and the other person voice very quiet
Wifi is very bad, receives low signal and disconnects easily
No good video player with full hardware acceleration
The other things are great

mmm!
some are very close....

recording calls...
there has been quite alot of talk re the recording of calls....
does anyone have any really good positive recommendations????

PJMDS said:
Things I don't like about the touch HD
Video recording, only QVGA
Back cover, should be smooth without that metal thing
The reset button inside the cover, should be outside
The headphones that came with it are useless, to big to fit my ears
When recording calls our voice gets recorded very loud and the other person voice very quiet
Wifi is very bad, receives low signal and disconnects easily
No good video player with full hardware acceleration
The other things are great
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont agree with the WIFI.. here it works great, i recommend you set it to Best Performance setting when you have a low signal

umexed said:
i dont agree with the WIFI.. here it works great, i recommend you set it to Best Performance setting when you have a low signal
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I did that but it doesn't work fine like my ETEN M700 did, I was using one FONERA www.fon.com with one 10db omni directional antenna as my home hotspot, it sends 2 SSIDs, the HD doesn't like it and disconnects, so I'm now using the wireless of other of my routers, it's one linksys WRT54GL, it doesn't have the same high range but it works.

What I don't like are:
Stylus comes out when removing from pouch.
Key buttons too small on keyboards resulting in constant incorrect key presses.
Takes too long to go back to previous screen after adjusting volume keys.
When using alphabet scroller on right edge on Contacts screen and you scroll to say 'S', the first contact beginning with S appears at the bottom of the screen instead of at the top of the screen.
Slow redraw rate of icons everytime you go to builtin programs list.

wierd ticking noise when shaking the phone

Today i noticed a wierd ticking noise when shaking my phone . It's not that loud , it's around the phone-speaker and i suspect some kind of spring from the slide , because when i hold the phone firmly in the speaker area the noise dissapears , also when sliding the screen(during the slide. when completly opened it reappears) the noise deissapear , and when i push a bit the screen in the direction that it is (forcing it to stay closed or open).
Does anyone else has this problem ? Because i don't thing that warranty will consider this as a problem , and change my phone.
The phone is not having any hardware problems , but the ticking noise just annoys me .

I believe this is just the slide mechanism.
What are you doing shaking your phone anyway?

Hmm I think I found this problem discussed b4.
The sound came from some part under the optical pad, and as I know, every X1 is.

a normal sound coming from the sliding mechanism.
please check my thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=457777

anaadoul said:
a normal sound coming from the sliding mechanism.
please check my thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=457777
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes we all hear it, it is normal, not something broken or loose.

thanks for sharing , i also suspected the slide mecanism , but i didn't know it this sound is normal . now i feel better knowing that there is nothing wrong with my phone , but is still pretty iritating , hearing it sometimes when using the phone (voice call)

LOL=) It's the pen!

If the sound originates from the top of the phone, most definitely it's the camera; more specifically the auto focus mechanism. From what I read here on XDA, it would seem that it's not a Q.C. problem and it's normal for it to "rattle", "click", "tick" or whatever else you can make sense of it.

I've had a few devices from just about every manufacturer, and I've noticed the sound you're describing in about 30% of my devices. Some manufacturers are worse than others - like Motorola - but I've never seen a link between the "rattle" and phone malfunction. In my opinion, it's perfectly normal - best not to think about it

zzone said:
thanks for sharing , i also suspected the slide mecanism , but i didn't know it this sound is normal . now i feel better knowing that there is nothing wrong with my phone , but is still pretty iritating , hearing it sometimes when using the phone (voice call)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
don't worry you will forget it's even there so soon
thinhvo said:
If the sound originates from the top of the phone, most definitely it's the camera; more specifically the auto focus mechanism. From what I read here on XDA, it would seem that it's not a Q.C. problem and it's normal for it to "rattle", "click", "tick" or whatever else you can make sense of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what i was hearing was the sliding mechanism, if you hold the 2 parts (bottom and top) and press them (the gap between them will become almost zero) the sound will disappear
oakleaf said:
LOL=) It's the pen!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i don't think so, the pen is in a fixed location, and it exactly fits there so i don't think it can move in the compartment.

Hi,
I also have this ticking noise, and has some one posted before, I found out it comes from small wheels between the screen and keyboard of the sliding mechanism.
I post here some pics that show them:
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The two wheels in each side on back of the screen.
One wheel in more detail:
These wheels I believe they should run on the sides of the keyboard as I show on next picture.
I think the problem is that this wheels are loose and flying in spite of running on top of the keyboard. I also note that my screen is not totally stable, specially when open, and is a bit loose in relation to the X1 body.
I believe that this wheels should be there for stabilizing the screen and to give a smoother sliding effect, which I find not very the case of my X1.
I also think it's not normal to put wheels that are never grounded (as far as I can see on my X1) and only are there for making noise.
An easy way to check and patch the problem is to put two or three slices of paper stacked over the sides of the keyboard (on the red lines of last picture). In this way you fill the gap between the wheels and the keyboard body and the noise will stop. Besides the slide is smoother and screen is more stable.
I think this is a major fabrication issue, because apparently, at least I couldn't find anyone that doesn't have this problem.
Anyone doesn't have this issue on X1?

I believe that som X1's have the wheelrattle, but not all that rattle are because of the wheels.
There's an example on how my phone sounds after the second repair of the batterycompartment crack.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=482022

Guys!
Its just the sound of the sort-of-free volume/camera buttons
If you just touch both during shacking, you will make sure that there is no tick sound
I guess

nu it's the wheels guiding the screen. if you press the screen up and down , you will see that the noise dissapears. it's as clear as possible explained in the pictures above

zzone said:
nu it's the wheels guiding the screen. if you press the screen up and down , you will see that the noise dissapears. it's as clear as possible explained in the pictures above
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My noise does not dissappear when putting pressure on the wheels..
Listen to my X1 rattle here and see if you have the same rattle.

Best mechanical keyboards to buy in 2021

The PC market continues to make headlines due to the global chipset crisis, not to mention the scarcity of GPUs worldwide. But today, we are looking at an important PC component that’s often overlooked or is usually an afterthought when buying or building a PC, despite being a key member of the board. There are tons of keyboards available in various shapes and sizes at different price points, and we’ve got a list of some of the best mechanical keyboards that you should consider for your next purchase.
Why should you buy a mechanical keyboard?​Before we dive into some of the recommendations, let’s understand what exactly a mechanical keyboard is. Basically, a keyboard is defined by the switch it uses.
Cheaper keyboards usually incorporate a rubber-dome or a membrane switch system wherein a keypress pushes onto a silicone dome, connecting the circuit to register what the user is typing. These often require a large amount of force for actuation and give off mushy feedback due to the silicon underneath. These are relatively silent and don’t offer audible feedback, while the overall lifespan of the keys is also comparatively shorter.
When you press a key on a mechanical keyboard, an actual physical switch, including a spring-based pushback mechanism, comes into play. Depending on the type of key switch, you get a certain tactile or linear feedback as you type along. While that in itself makes a huge difference, these switches also last really long, with certain manufacturers claiming up to 50-80 million keystrokes.
In short, mechanical keyboards offer a longer shelf life, and you can expect a much better typing experience thanks to the wide variety of switch options.
Corsair K100 RGB​
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The best full-sized mechanical keyboard has to be Corsair’s K100 RGB. Not only is it one of the most expensive ones, but this keyboard has it all. It comes with a polling rate of up to 4000Hz and 0.5ms response time, making it the fastest keyboard that money can buy. It also comes with Corsair’s OPX optical-mechanical key switches that use a beam of infrared light to register an actuation, which means a fast and precise keypress registration at a 1.0mm actuation point. Corsair also sells the K100 with Cherry MX Speed Silver switches with an actuation distance of 1.2mm.
The keyboard also offers macro support, a dedicated control wheel for various functions, and to top it off, per-key RGB backlighting with a 44-zone three-sided RGB edge lighting. It also comes with highly durable construction and premium design, making it one of the most desirable keyboards on the market.
Buy from Amazon
Razer BlackWidow V3 Pro​
The Razer BlackWidow V3 Pro is the best mechanical keyboard for those who don't like wires. It's a full-size keyboard that's great for gaming or just regular typing. It's available with Razer’s Green switches for a clicky, tactile feel, or you can go for the Yellow switches that are linear, silent, and offer a smooth keystroke. The BlackWidow V3 Pro comes with a premium design, including a plush leatherette wrist rest and double-shot ABS keycaps.
You can use the keyboard with Razer’s HyperSpeed wireless tech using a USB dongle for low latency or go the traditional way using Bluetooth or wired. There are also some dedicated media keys, a volume control wheel, and individually RGB-backlit keys that can be controlled using Razer’s software.
Buy from Amazon
Corsair K70 RGB TKL​
Corsair’s newly launched K70 RGB TKL is the best TKL (Tenkeyless) keyboard and in our opinion, gives a tough competition to Logitech’s G915 TKL. It isn’t wireless, but Corsair’s AXON technology can deliver a polling rate of 8000Hz over a wired USB connection. This makes it twice as fast as the company’s most premium offering, the K100 RGB. The keyboard is available with either Cherry MX Speed Silver or Cherry MX Red switches.
Corsair hasn’t cut any corners here and has made the K70 RGB TKL to match the requirements of professional esports gamers. It comes with a solid metal frame, dedicated media keys and volume dial, and a special 'Tournament Switch' that can be flipped to move to static backlighting and disable accidental macro activations automatically.
Buy from Amazon
Logitech G915 TKL​
Logitech makes some of the best gaming peripherals, and the G915 TKL is a pristine wireless mechanical keyboard. It’s an ultra-thin keyboard with low-profile keycaps backed by Logitech’s custom-made low-profile GL switches available in either clicky, tactile, or linear type. Using the company’s Lightspeed wireless technology, the G915 TKL comes with a response rate that's as good as a wired keyboard, while the battery can last about 40 hours with the RGB lighting enabled. Although I really wish Logitech would stop using micro-USB for charging its peripherals.
Additionally, the keyboard includes Bluetooth, when low-latency is not required, dedicated media control keys, and a volume scroll wheel. If tenkeyless is not your thing, Logitech also has a full-size version.
Buy from Amazon
Razer Huntsman Mini​
Hands down the best compact 60% keyboard, the Razer Huntsman Mini is a delight for customers who like to keep things minimal. Razer offers the keyboard with newly updated linear red switches with a 1.2mm actuation distance and 48g actuation force. In comparison, the clicky purple switches come with a 1.5mm actuation distance and 45g actuation force. It features solid-looking PBT keycaps and a USB Type-C cable for connectivity.
Of course, it comes with Razer’s Chroma RGB lighting, a solid aluminum chassis, onboard memory for up to five profiles, and side-printed secondary functions on the keycaps. The Huntsman Mini is available in either Black or Mercury (White) color options.
Buy from Amazon
Glorious GMMK​
Claimed to be the world’s first modular mechanical keyboard with RGB lighting, the Glorious GMMK is for someone who wants something future-proof. It comes preinstalled with Gateron brown switches with black or white ABS double-shot injection keycaps depending on which color you go for. It's also available in full, tenkeyless, and compact form factors, thus offering a wide choice for the user to choose from.
It has a simple, minimal-looking design, so it doesn’t look very loud. Apart from the keycaps, the switches can also be removed if you change your mind in the future about the kind of switches you want. The company hasn’t missed out on RGB, and you can control that without installing any software, which is neat.
Buy from Amazon
Keychron K4 V2​
Keychron started as a Kickstarter project, but today offers a wide range of keyboards. One of the best offerings is the Keychron K4, a full-size keyboard with a 96% layout, available with a variety of customization options. You can get the keyboard with white or RGB backlighting and there is the option of an aluminum frame for more rigid construction. The keyboard comes with Gateron Red, Blue, or Brown key switch options, and you can also opt for the hot-swappable variant to quickly move between switches.
The keyboard is great for both Windows and Mac operating systems and it offers wireless connectivity via Bluetooth or regular wired connection via USB.
Buy from Amazon
Redragon K552​
If you are on a tight budget, say under $50, you can check out the Redragon K552. It isn't the most premium mechanical keyboard, but overall the keyboard should serve you well for most use cases. It is a tenkeyless keyboard with clicky Outemu Blue switches that mimic Cherry MX Blue, but there's also a variant with linear Red switches. Fully compatible with Windows and Linux, the Redragon K552 can also be used with macOS but with limited functionality. Other notable features include full RGB backlighting with 18 different effects, a splash-proof metal and plastic chassis, n-Key rollover, 12 multimedia keys, and the option of a white color variant.
Overall the keyboard is pretty good and responsive for gamers although it might offer higher latency than most keyboards. It's also suitable for typing and office use cases as the keys are light, but they can get noisy so the keyboard might not fit well with users looking for a silent experience.
Buy from Amazon
These are some of the best mechanical keyboards in our books. Share your thoughts and tell us if we have missed a certain category or form factor that you would be interested in.

Developers, gamers, and individuals who occasionally type love mechanical consoles for their consistency, responsiveness to contact, and customisable keypads.
G Pro X Logitech: Thanks to the hot-swappable key switches, you can easily alter the feel of the keys on this keyboard. Additionally, it has a compact design and programmable RGB lighting.
Bluetooth KeyBee from iGear Pro: It is compatible with numerous gadgets, including iOS, Android, Windows, and Mac OS, and has a sleek and lightweight design. It also supports Bluetooth, making it possible to connect without using cables.
Professional Edition of Das Keyboard: With a sleek aluminum top panel and braided cable, this keyboard is known for its high-quality construction. Cherry MX Brown or Blue key switches are available.
Razer Huntsman Tip Top: The Opto-Mechanical key switches on this keyboard, manufactured by Razer, offer quick response times and tactile feedback. It also features customizable RGB lighting and a magnetic wrist rest.

Beginner’s guide to mechanical keyboards: Switches, form-factors, keycaps, and more

Mechanical keyboards are some of the best keyboards you can buy today as they offer a very satisfying feel and sound. They're also more customizable and generally help in improving your productivity, especially if you're planning to get one for typing. Even gamers prefer playing on a mechanical keyboard as they're fast, reliable, and have a long shelf life. But what exactly is a mechanical keyboard, and how does it differ from a regular keyboard? We're going to answer that and a lot more in this beginner’s guide to mechanical keyboards.
Mechanical keyboard vs. Membrane keyboard​If you're out in the market looking for a new keyboard, you broadly have two choices. The most common type is a membrane keyboard that has rubber domes or pressure pads under each key which, upon pressing, completes the circuit and sends the command of the given key. Instead of using any mechanical parts, these keyboards use a silicone, rubber sheet, or a pad that sits on top of the circuit board.
While these are great for users who want a slim, compact keyboard, they're not the most accurate while typing. You also have to consider the life of the rubber padding underneath as it can decay over time. On the positive side, these keyboards are inexpensive and more resistant to dust and liquids, requiring less maintenance.
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Membrane rubber-dome key switch
On the other hand, mechanical keyboards make use of an individual switch mechanism for every single key. Each mechanical key switch includes a keycap that's attached with a stem, along with a spring, metal contact leaves, and a slider placed inside the switch housing. Each part can have variations, thus allowing manufacturers the flexibility to give a large variety of options to users. They can fine-tune the pressure required for bottoming out each key, travel distance, actuation point, the sound made, and more.
Basically, a mechanical switch can be offered with a wide range of customizations when compared to a membrane keyboard. However, like every mechanical part, the key switches need maintenance if you want your keyboard to last long. Apart from cleaning, you need to lube the switches and maybe even use modifiers like stabilizers or films to reduce clacking.
If you're unable to understand any of the terms that we've used below, there's an excellent guide you can refer to.
How does a mechanical keyboard work?​To understand how a mechanical keyboard works, let’s first understand the mechanical keyboard switch. Each key on a mechanical keyboard includes its own switch. At the top is the keycap, which isn’t necessarily a part of the mechanical switch, but it's where your fingers press the switch and is partially responsible for the sound generated when the key bottoms out.
The keycap is attached to a stem that comes in different designs and determines the actuation and travel distance of the switch. It sits inside the upper housing that protects the stem and is also the place where your keycap hits when you press a key.
Then we have the spring that's responsible for how much pressure is required to actuate or register the keypress. It also pushes the stem back to its original place after a keypress. The metal contact points or contact leaves are where the actual electrical current flows, and the keypress is registered. We also have a lower housing that connects with the upper housing on the top and into the keyboard chassis at the bottom.
Mechanical key switch
When you press a key, the stem pushes the spring down, thereby allowing the two metal contacts to connect and register your keypress to the keyboard’s circuitry and thus to your computer. By adding variations to the different parts of the switch, manufacturers can offer a different feel, sound, and actuation force. Hence we have a variety of keyboard switches that are either linear, tactile, or clicky.
Key switches​Mechanical switches are available in three categories that are based on their characteristics. They're either linear, tactile, or clicky. Linear switches are usually smooth and offer a consistent actuation without any tactile feedback. The actuation of a keypress happens when it bottoms out, and since there are no bumps in between, linear switches glide down rather easily.
Tactile switches are very similar in terms of construction as linear but include a bump halfway through the key’s downward travel. This bump signifies the actuation point, which means that a keypress is registered before it fully bottoms out. This enables a faster typing experience since the key doesn’t have to travel all the way down to actuate.
Clicky switches are almost the same as tactile switches, including a bump in the mechanism but are louder, giving a very satisfying sound. The additional audio feedback isn’t always pleasing and can be annoying for certain users.
Some of the key characteristics of a mechanical switch include:
Actuation point, which refers to the specific point when the key switch registers the keypress. Different switches can have a variety of actuation points, measured by force in grams.
Bottom out, is when a key is pressed hard enough to press down the switch completely. It's also measured in force, where a higher bottom out weight means it's much harder for you to press all the way down.
Key travel is how far the switch goes from fully depressed to bottoming out. The standard travel distance is 4mm but there are a few mechanical switches that offer lesser travel distance.
Traditionally, linear switches are said to be good for gaming, while typists prefer clicky and tactile switches. Of course, there are no rules here, and it all depends on how comfortable you are with a certain key switch.
Based on these three types, we have several switches available from a variety of manufacturers. Alps and Cherry are legacy brands that continue to offer some of the best mechanical keyboard switches. Gateron, Otemu, and Kailh are also some of the more popular names when it comes to mechanical key switches.
The past few years have seen a huge rise of Cherry MX-based mechanical keyboards primarily offered in red (linear), brown (tactile), and blue (clicky) colored switches. Color coding is the best way to determine the characteristics of each switch. While it's mostly universal, certain manufacturers have their own color-coding that can confuse first-time buyers. Here are some of the popular ones:
Cherry MX​Cherry MX Blue: Clicky, 50gram actuation
Cherry MX Brown: Tactile, 45gram actuation
Cherry MX Red: Linear, 45gram actuation
Cherry MX Black: Linear, 60gram actuation
Gateron​Gateron Blue: Clicky, 55gram actuation
Gateron Brown: Tactile, 45gram actuation
Gateron Red: Linear, 45gram actuation
Gateron Black: Linear, 50gram actuation
Kailh​Kailh Silver: Linear,40gram actuation
Kailh Copper: Tactile, 50gram actuation
Kailh Bronze: Clicky, 60gram actuation
Kailh Gold: Clicky, 60gram actuation
Kailh Box Black: Linear 60gram actuation
Kailh Box Brown: Tactile 50gram actuation
Kailh Box Red: Linear 45gram actuation
Kailh Box White: Clicky 45gram actuation
Logitech Romer-G​Romer-G Tactile, 45gram actuation
Romer-G Linear, 45gram actuation
GX Blue: Clicky, 50gram actuation
Razer​Razer Green: Clicky, 50gram actuation
Razer Orange: Tactile, 45gram actuation
Razer Yellow: Linear, 45gram actuation
Razer Opto-Mechanical: Clicky, 45gram actuation
HyperX​HyperX Red: Linear, 45gram actuation
HyperX Aqua: Tactile, 45gram actuation
These are just some of the most common mechanical key switches. There are a lot more switches available for you to explore from brands like Outemu, ZealPC, MOD, etc.
Most mechanical keyboards have these switches soldered onto the main circuit board. However, there are a few manufacturers that offer mechanical keyboards with the option of hot-swapping the switches. You should definitely check out Glorious GMMK, if you're interested in hot-swappable mechanical switch keyboards. Either way, you'd need to invest money and a lot of time if you plan to move to a certain switch type.
Having the flexibility to choose the type of key switch is also one reason why people opt for mechanical keyboards. If you plan to swap out the key switches on your keyboard, especially if you have them soldered, there are risks involved in this process. It's advised you take utmost care before trying to remove the switches by yourself.
Size and Layout​Now let’s come to the form factor and layout options. Mechanical keyboards are available in traditional full size with a dedicated number pad having a total of 104 keys. Some manufacturers also offer additional media keys, volume knobs, or dials at the top.
If you don’t care about a dedicated number pad, you can go smaller with a TKL (Tenkeyless) size, which is essentially an 80% keyboard with around 88 keys in total. The TKL form factor is also available in a 75% size, which basically has the keys cramped together.
Then there are 65% and 60% keyboards that only have about 61 keys. This form factor removes anything to the right of the Enter key, along with the function row on top. You can access extra functions by holding down the FN and pressing other keys.
It all comes down to the size of your desk and your personal preferences. Small keyboards do look neat and take up less space, but they can take some time to get used to the layout.
Speaking of which, let’s quickly understand the layouts.
Image: Quantum Mechanical Keyboard
There are a total of three universally accepted layouts -- ANSI, ISO, and JIS. Layouts are primarily based on the region, where ANSI is for America, ISO for Europe, and JIS for Japan. Primarily the difference between them is how some of the keys are placed. ANSI and ISO are mostly similar, with the Enter and Shift keys having different shapes and sizes. On the other hand, JIS has a similar layout of the Enter and right Shift key as ISO but also has a different bottom row layout.
Keycaps​Keycaps are the plastic caps that cover each key. They're easy to remove and replace where you can get them in various sizes, shapes, colors, and plastic, and of course, the letters printed on them. Keycap sets are easily available either as base kits covering most conventional board layouts or extension kits that include only a small set of keycaps.
Before choosing the right set of keycaps, make sure you confirm the layout and form factor as mentioned above. Additionally, check if your keyboard has a standardized layout. For instance, Corsair has certain keyboards that offer a slightly different bottom row layout where the size of the keycaps differ, thereby not allowing you to use third-party keycaps.
Another important factor to consider while choosing keycaps is the profile. Usually, a keyset has either a sculpted or a uniform profile. With the former, the keys in each row have a different shape and height. Essentially, sculpted keycaps can’t be used on the rows they’re not designed for. A keyset with a uniform profile is pretty simple where each row of keys is the same shape and height, allowing you to place the keycaps on any row as required. Keycaps can also differ in height, where low-profile keycaps offer less weight allowing you to type faster.
Keycaps are basically just a piece of sculpted plastic. They're usually made of either ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), which is the most common one, or PBT (polybutylene terephthalate), which is gaining a lot of popularity. ABS keycaps are available in a wider color range, offer better and sharper letter printing, and are straighter and more consistent. PBT, on the other hand, offers a rougher texture and doesn't wear out that easily. PBT keycaps also come with a deeper sound profile and are recommended for non-conventional artisanal design.
Other factors to consider​Whether you're a gamer or an avid typist, there are some additional things you need to know about mechanical keyboards. Depending on your use case, you can opt for a wireless or a wired mechanical keyboard. Certain manufacturers offer keyboards that have a detachable cable, which is convenient for portability.
As with wireless mice, wireless mechanical keyboards either use Bluetooth or a 2.4GHz based connectivity method via a USB-based receiver. While both are equally good, the latter offers much lower latency. These often come with different names depending on the manufacturers and are the preferred choice for gamers.
Speaking of which, modern gaming mechanical keyboards now offer super-fast polling rates going up to 8,000Hz, reducing the latency down to a ludicrous 0.25ms. This means these keyboards offer the fastest response time, which is crucial when it comes to gaming.
The Corsair K70 RGB TKL comes with a polling rate of up to 8000Hz
Let’s come to keyboard backlighting. You can get mechanical keyboards with simple single-colored backlighting, which should solve the purpose of lighting up the keyboard when you're working at night. Additionally, there's the entire topic of RGB backlighting. It has strong opinions on both sides of the fence. While some absolutely hate it, others can't live without it. Cheaper mechanical keyboards offer zone-based RGB lighting allowing users to light up certain areas of the keyboard with a certain color. Per-key RGB lighting, on the other hand, lets you create some crazy effects. Certain premium mechanical keyboards also offer additional RGB LED bars along with the support of up to 16.8 million colors, giving you the freedom to experiment with all sorts of hues and color combinations.

kunalneo said:
Mechanical keyboards are some of the best keyboards you can buy today as they offer a very satisfying feel and sound. They're also more customizable and generally help in improving your productivity, especially if you're planning to get one for typing. Even gamers prefer playing on a mechanical keyboard as they're fast, reliable, and have a long shelf life. But what exactly is a mechanical keyboard, and how does it differ from a regular keyboard? We're going to answer that and a lot more in this beginner’s guide to mechanical keyboards.
Mechanical keyboard vs. Membrane keyboard​If you're out in the market looking for a new keyboard, you broadly have two choices. The most common type is a membrane keyboard that has rubber domes or pressure pads under each key which, upon pressing, completes the circuit and sends the command of the given key. Instead of using any mechanical parts, these keyboards use a silicone, rubber sheet, or a pad that sits on top of the circuit board.
While these are great for users who want a slim, compact keyboard, they're not the most accurate while typing. You also have to consider the life of the rubber padding underneath as it can decay over time. On the positive side, these keyboards are inexpensive and more resistant to dust and liquids, requiring less maintenance.
Membrane rubber-dome key switch
On the other hand, mechanical keyboards make use of an individual switch mechanism for every single key. Each mechanical key switch includes a keycap that's attached with a stem, along with a spring, metal contact leaves, and a slider placed inside the switch housing. Each part can have variations, thus allowing manufacturers the flexibility to give a large variety of options to users. They can fine-tune the pressure required for bottoming out each key, travel distance, actuation point, the sound made, and more.
Basically, a mechanical switch can be offered with a wide range of customizations when compared to a membrane keyboard. However, like every mechanical part, the key switches need maintenance if you want your keyboard to last long. Apart from cleaning, you need to lube the switches and maybe even use modifiers like stabilizers or films to reduce clacking.
If you're unable to understand any of the terms that we've used below, there's an excellent guide you can refer to.
How does a mechanical keyboard work?​To understand how a mechanical keyboard works, let’s first understand the mechanical keyboard switch. Each key on a mechanical keyboard includes its own switch. At the top is the keycap, which isn’t necessarily a part of the mechanical switch, but it's where your fingers press the switch and is partially responsible for the sound generated when the key bottoms out.
The keycap is attached to a stem that comes in different designs and determines the actuation and travel distance of the switch. It sits inside the upper housing that protects the stem and is also the place where your keycap hits when you press a key.
Then we have the spring that's responsible for how much pressure is required to actuate or register the keypress. It also pushes the stem back to its original place after a keypress. The metal contact points or contact leaves are where the actual electrical current flows, and the keypress is registered. We also have a lower housing that connects with the upper housing on the top and into the keyboard chassis at the bottom.
Mechanical key switch
When you press a key, the stem pushes the spring down, thereby allowing the two metal contacts to connect and register your keypress to the keyboard’s circuitry and thus to your computer. By adding variations to the different parts of the switch, manufacturers can offer a different feel, sound, and actuation force. Hence we have a variety of keyboard switches that are either linear, tactile, or clicky.
Key switches​Mechanical switches are available in three categories that are based on their characteristics. They're either linear, tactile, or clicky. Linear switches are usually smooth and offer a consistent actuation without any tactile feedback. The actuation of a keypress happens when it bottoms out, and since there are no bumps in between, linear switches glide down rather easily.
Tactile switches are very similar in terms of construction as linear but include a bump halfway through the key’s downward travel. This bump signifies the actuation point, which means that a keypress is registered before it fully bottoms out. This enables a faster typing experience since the key doesn’t have to travel all the way down to actuate.
Clicky switches are almost the same as tactile switches, including a bump in the mechanism but are louder, giving a very satisfying sound. The additional audio feedback isn’t always pleasing and can be annoying for certain users.
Some of the key characteristics of a mechanical switch include:
Actuation point, which refers to the specific point when the key switch registers the keypress. Different switches can have a variety of actuation points, measured by force in grams.
Bottom out, is when a key is pressed hard enough to press down the switch completely. It's also measured in force, where a higher bottom out weight means it's much harder for you to press all the way down.
Key travel is how far the switch goes from fully depressed to bottoming out. The standard travel distance is 4mm but there are a few mechanical switches that offer lesser travel distance.
Traditionally, linear switches are said to be good for gaming, while typists prefer clicky and tactile switches. Of course, there are no rules here, and it all depends on how comfortable you are with a certain key switch.
Based on these three types, we have several switches available from a variety of manufacturers. Alps and Cherry are legacy brands that continue to offer some of the best mechanical keyboard switches. Gateron, Otemu, and Kailh are also some of the more popular names when it comes to mechanical key switches.
The past few years have seen a huge rise of Cherry MX-based mechanical keyboards primarily offered in red (linear), brown (tactile), and blue (clicky) colored switches. Color coding is the best way to determine the characteristics of each switch. While it's mostly universal, certain manufacturers have their own color-coding that can confuse first-time buyers. Here are some of the popular ones:
Cherry MX​Cherry MX Blue: Clicky, 50gram actuation
Cherry MX Brown: Tactile, 45gram actuation
Cherry MX Red: Linear, 45gram actuation
Cherry MX Black: Linear, 60gram actuation
Gateron​Gateron Blue: Clicky, 55gram actuation
Gateron Brown: Tactile, 45gram actuation
Gateron Red: Linear, 45gram actuation
Gateron Black: Linear, 50gram actuation
Kailh​Kailh Silver: Linear,40gram actuation
Kailh Copper: Tactile, 50gram actuation
Kailh Bronze: Clicky, 60gram actuation
Kailh Gold: Clicky, 60gram actuation
Kailh Box Black: Linear 60gram actuation
Kailh Box Brown: Tactile 50gram actuation
Kailh Box Red: Linear 45gram actuation
Kailh Box White: Clicky 45gram actuation
Logitech Romer-G​Romer-G Tactile, 45gram actuation
Romer-G Linear, 45gram actuation
GX Blue: Clicky, 50gram actuation
Razer​Razer Green: Clicky, 50gram actuation
Razer Orange: Tactile, 45gram actuation
Razer Yellow: Linear, 45gram actuation
Razer Opto-Mechanical: Clicky, 45gram actuation
HyperX​HyperX Red: Linear, 45gram actuation
HyperX Aqua: Tactile, 45gram actuation
These are just some of the most common mechanical key switches. There are a lot more switches available for you to explore from brands like Outemu, ZealPC, MOD, etc.
Most mechanical keyboards have these switches soldered onto the main circuit board. However, there are a few manufacturers that offer mechanical keyboards with the option of hot-swapping the switches. You should definitely check out Glorious GMMK, if you're interested in hot-swappable mechanical switch keyboards. Either way, you'd need to invest money and a lot of time if you plan to move to a certain switch type.
Having the flexibility to choose the type of key switch is also one reason why people opt for mechanical keyboards. If you plan to swap out the key switches on your keyboard, especially if you have them soldered, there are risks involved in this process. It's advised you take utmost care before trying to remove the switches by yourself.
Size and Layout​Now let’s come to the form factor and layout options. Mechanical keyboards are available in traditional full size with a dedicated number pad having a total of 104 keys. Some manufacturers also offer additional media keys, volume knobs, or dials at the top.
If you don’t care about a dedicated number pad, you can go smaller with a TKL (Tenkeyless) size, which is essentially an 80% keyboard with around 88 keys in total. The TKL form factor is also available in a 75% size, which basically has the keys cramped together.
Then there are 65% and 60% keyboards that only have about 61 keys. This form factor removes anything to the right of the Enter key, along with the function row on top. You can access extra functions by holding down the FN and pressing other keys.
It all comes down to the size of your desk and your personal preferences. Small keyboards do look neat and take up less space, but they can take some time to get used to the layout.
Speaking of which, let’s quickly understand the layouts.
Image: Quantum Mechanical Keyboard
There are a total of three universally accepted layouts -- ANSI, ISO, and JIS. Layouts are primarily based on the region, where ANSI is for America, ISO for Europe, and JIS for Japan. Primarily the difference between them is how some of the keys are placed. ANSI and ISO are mostly similar, with the Enter and Shift keys having different shapes and sizes. On the other hand, JIS has a similar layout of the Enter and right Shift key as ISO but also has a different bottom row layout.
Keycaps​Keycaps are the plastic caps that cover each key. They're easy to remove and replace where you can get them in various sizes, shapes, colors, and plastic, and of course, the letters printed on them. Keycap sets are easily available either as base kits covering most conventional board layouts or extension kits that include only a small set of keycaps.
Before choosing the right set of keycaps, make sure you confirm the layout and form factor as mentioned above. Additionally, check if your keyboard has a standardized layout. For instance, Corsair has certain keyboards that offer a slightly different bottom row layout where the size of the keycaps differ, thereby not allowing you to use third-party keycaps.
Another important factor to consider while choosing keycaps is the profile. Usually, a keyset has either a sculpted or a uniform profile. With the former, the keys in each row have a different shape and height. Essentially, sculpted keycaps can’t be used on the rows they’re not designed for. A keyset with a uniform profile is pretty simple where each row of keys is the same shape and height, allowing you to place the keycaps on any row as required. Keycaps can also differ in height, where low-profile keycaps offer less weight allowing you to type faster.
Keycaps are basically just a piece of sculpted plastic. They're usually made of either ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), which is the most common one, or PBT (polybutylene terephthalate), which is gaining a lot of popularity. ABS keycaps are available in a wider color range, offer better and sharper letter printing, and are straighter and more consistent. PBT, on the other hand, offers a rougher texture and doesn't wear out that easily. PBT keycaps also come with a deeper sound profile and are recommended for non-conventional artisanal design.
Other factors to consider​Whether you're a gamer or an avid typist, there are some additional things you need to know about mechanical keyboards. Depending on your use case, you can opt for a wireless or a wired mechanical keyboard. Certain manufacturers offer keyboards that have a detachable cable, which is convenient for portability.
As with wireless mice, wireless mechanical keyboards either use Bluetooth or a 2.4GHz based connectivity method via a USB-based receiver. While both are equally good, the latter offers much lower latency. These often come with different names depending on the manufacturers and are the preferred choice for gamers.
Speaking of which, modern gaming mechanical keyboards now offer super-fast polling rates going up to 8,000Hz, reducing the latency down to a ludicrous 0.25ms. This means these keyboards offer the fastest response time, which is crucial when it comes to gaming.
The Corsair K70 RGB TKL comes with a polling rate of up to 8000Hz
Let’s come to keyboard backlighting. You can get mechanical keyboards with simple single-colored backlighting, which should solve the purpose of lighting up the keyboard when you're working at night. Additionally, there's the entire topic of RGB backlighting. It has strong opinions on both sides of the fence. While some absolutely hate it, others can't live without it. Cheaper mechanical keyboards offer zone-based RGB lighting allowing users to light up certain areas of the keyboard with a certain color. Per-key RGB lighting, on the other hand, lets you create some crazy effects. Certain premium mechanical keyboards also offer additional RGB LED bars along with the support of up to 16.8 million colors, giving you the freedom to experiment with all sorts of hues and color combinations.
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Nice guide

Really good guide, thanks

Mechanical keyboard modifications: Everything you need to know

Mechanical keyboards are not just reliable but are often more customizable when compared to regular keyboards. With some modifications, you can improve the performance and overall experience of your mechanical keyboard. In most cases, this is also more cost-effective than spending money on a brand new keyboard. As a bonus, it's fun, especially if you are someone like me who loves to tinker around with tech.
If you own a mechanical keyboard and are interested in taking things to the next level, then modding is the way to go. Here are some of your options.
WARNING - Before you go ahead, note that some of the suggested options below come with a certain amount of risk. There's a chance you could end up completely damaging your keyboard, so you should limit yourself to simple modifications. Additionally, you need to be aware that modifying your keyboard can lead to voiding your warranty. Don’t expect the manufacturer to replace your keyboard if you made attempts to change the switches or damaged the keyboard in any other way.
Keycaps​The easiest keyboard modification is replacing your keycaps. If your keycaps start to look old or lose their paint job, it's time to get some new ones. They're super easy to replace and while you can technically pull them out with your hands, using a keycap remover is more convenient. You can grab one online for a really low price, in case it wasn’t bundled with your keyboard or keycap set.
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If you have a relatively old mechanical keyboard or one that uses ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) keycaps, I recommend you go for double-shot PBT (Polybutylene Terephthalate) keycaps. They come at a higher cost but are much better in terms of quality. The biggest advantage of PBT keycaps is that they don't come with printed letters; rather, they are formed by fusing two separate layers of plastic; so the letters are permanent and never fade or scratch.
If you have RGB lighting on your mechanical keyboard, try on some pudding keycaps. They look absolutely gorgeous as they diffuse the harsh LED lights giving off a nice uniform hue. Some really interesting custom artisan keycaps can be made to order, but those can cost you a fortune, especially if you want them with unique colors, shapes, and designs.
Custom artisan keycaps by Dwarf Factory
Key switches​Key switches are the most important part of the keyboard. It's the mechanism underneath each key that includes the housing, stem, spring, and metal contact leaves. While certain mechanical keyboards have the option of hot-swappable switches, others have the switches embedded onto the keyboard’s circuit board.
The latter is tricky if you want to replace the switches as you need to de-solder the existing ones and then solder the new ones. It's not as easy as it sounds.
You can try different types of switches, broadly available in three categories: clicky, tactile, and linear. Cherry MX is the most popular key switches available in different colors, each depicting how they feel and sound when you type on them. Other popular switches include Kailh and Gateron.
A word of caution, be careful when dealing with a keyboard that has key switches soldered onto the circuit board. They need special attention, and one wrong move could end up in a completely dead keyboard. Keyboard switches can also get expensive, especially if you plan on changing every single switch on your keyboard, where you could end up spending as much as the keyboard itself.
Alternatively, if you want to try different key switches for a particular purpose, say gaming, maybe swap out the ones you use the most, like the WASD or arrow keys. You also need to make sure you get the right set of switches for your particular keyboard, as one size doesn't fit all.
Stabilizers​Stabilizers give support to the keys allowing you to control the amount of jiggle on them. They also help in reducing unwanted clacky sounds during keystrokes. You'll primarily see stabilizers for the spacebar or enter keys, but you can essentially use them on almost any key if you feel they're too wobbly. Stabilizers are placed over the key switch and under the keycap to help keep it steady.
Image: AnandTech
You can either clamp them between individual switches or under the keycaps, depending on the provisions. If there are no grooves or any sort of assembly to attach the stabilizers, you can use hot glue or some tape. Just make sure you don’t go overboard with the glue.
Key switch films​
These have a similar purpose to a stabilizer but are cheaper and can be used on all the keys. Switch films are a thin piece of plastic that sits between the switch top and the switch bottom. These can be used to remove any sort of wobble effect caused by the stem of the switch and stabilizes them, thereby bringing a change in the overall sound.
O-rings​
An easy solution to dampen or make your keystrokes softer, o-rings are fairly cheap and easy to install. These are small rubber rings placed inside the keycaps. Once installed, these o-rings act as a buffer between the top of the key switch and the top of the keycap, thereby removing any friction and clack sounds caused by the two plastics coming into contact with each other.
Cable mods​
Image : Clark Kable
There are numerous guides online to upgrade and customize your keyboard cable. Most full-size keyboards come with a cable connected directly to the PCB board. If you're planning to upgrade the cable to maybe a stronger braided one, you'll need to open up the keyboard and use a soldering iron, which again isn't an easy job. Smaller TKL and compact keyboards come with a detachable cable. These are easier to replace as you can get higher quality or even colored ones. There are also some really good-looking coiled cables, but those can get really expensive and are meant for keyboards with detachable cables.
If you're ambitious, you can even go ahead and replace the USB connector on your keyboard with a Bluetooth receiver to convert it into a wireless keyboard. Of course, that modification isn't a walk in the park.
These are some of the most common keyboard modifications, but the sky's the limit if we're honest. We’ve seen some crazy modifications online, from custom casing to artisan keycaps. One of the latest trends in the keyboard modification world is modular keyboard kits. These are different parts of the keyboard that you can order and assemble on your own. The benefit here is you have the liberty to choose the casing, the switches, and the keycaps. The Glorious GMMK is one of the many custom modular keyboard kits you can try.

I've had to use O rings on my mechanical keyboard, to try to bring the noise level down. It didn't really work in my case. I ended up just removing them.