You’ve done your research, compared them all, and finally settled on a great new mechanical keyboard that elevates your experience to the maximum. But no matter which one you go for, it’s impossible for it to remain clean and fresh all the time. All the sweaty gaming sessions, crumbs of food, and of course the biggest culprit – dust! It’s a good habit to clean your keyboard at least once every couple of months and to help you out, we’ve some quick tips for keeping your precious mechanical keyboard spotless.
I’m a bit of a clean freak, so usually, there’s a dust blower and a set of cleaning brushes at hand’s reach. I end up doing a quick clean-up of my keyboard at least once a week with the occasional wiping with a microfiber cloth. While that might sound a bit too much, performing a simple clean-up at least once a month is recommended as it ensures that your keyboard runs properly for longer. The gap between your cleanups can be increased or decreased depending on various conditions like dust accumulation, how much hair/skin you shed, whether you have pets, how much food you eat while sitting at your PC, and so on.
Simple CleaningDisconnect your keyboard, turn it around, and give it a shake, so that all the loose debris can fall out. If required, use an air blower or a few light sprays of canned air to remove any remaining crumbs or debris. Do remember that you’re basically blowing dust and debris around, so unless you want a dirty desk, it’s advised to clean your keyboard out in the open. It’s also advised to be extra careful when using compressed air from a can, as there are cases when it can lead to the formation of condensation that can damage some metallic parts on the keyboard.
You can also use a cleaning brush to remove any gunk stuck between or under the keys and quickly remove them using a vacuum cleaner. To remove sweat stains, especially ones on your keys or wrist rest, use a clean damp cloth to wipe off those marks. I would highly recommend following this simple cleanup procedure regularly to avoid the accumulation of dust, food particles, hair, and dead skin underneath the keys over time.
Deep CleaningFor those who haven’t cleaned their keyboard in a very long period, it’s time for some deep cleaning. Start by following the same process as I mentioned above to shake off any loose gunk. Next, remove all the keycaps from the keyboard. These should easily come off or be removed using a keycap puller tool usually bundled with most mechanical keyboards. If you don’t have one, you can buy one from here. Ensure that you don’t use excessive force or any heavy tools that can damage the keycaps. Be careful while removing larger keys like Spacebar, Enter, and Backspace, as they may have a stabilizer for support.
If you’ve never removed keycaps in the past, head over to your keyboard OEM’s website for guidance. Also, it’s a good habit to organize the keycaps as you remove them. You can also take a picture of the keyboard layout before taking the keycaps off, as this will help you in the faster reinstallation of the keycaps.
Once you’ve removed all of them, clean the entire deck using a cleaning brush, an air blower, or a vacuum cleaner. If you spilled something on the keyboard in the past like coffee or soda, use a damp cloth to wipe off the stains. For stubborn and sticky stains, you can use a tiny bit of dishwashing solution or isopropyl alcohol as well. Make sure you don’t use any liquids directly on the keyboard; rather apply some directly onto a cleaning cloth. This is to ensure that no liquid enters the internals, which could potentially damage the keyboard permanently. Do check the keyboard feet for any grime or dust buildup and a quick look at the keyboard cable to ensure there’s no potential damage.
Clean each keycap with a damp cloth or simply throw them in water with some soap if you want all your keys to be shiny on the inside and outside. Wipe off any stains and let them dry off. If you’ve used any liquids, I recommend leaving the keyboard and the keycaps to dry overnight. After you’ve ensured that everything is clean, start by putting back the keycaps on the mainboard. Whatever you do, be certain that everything is completely dry before plugging the keyboard into your PC.
Further MaintenanceTo further maintain the longevity of your keyboard, make sure you take time to clean it periodically. In fact, ensure that you clean all your PC parts at regular intervals if you want them to last longer. Most importantly, manage your cables. Not only does that make your setup look good, but it also ensures that the cables don’t wear out quickly. If the cable on your keyboard is long and just hanging about, use some velcro or zip ties to tidy it up.
We have also listed down some of the best mechanical keyboards to buy this year, in case you are planning to buy one.
Here is a list of some of the items mentioned above:
Dust cleaning air blower
Anti-static cleaning brush kit
Key puller
Compressed air can
Velcro straps
I spray my keyboard out with an air duster every once in a while, but I really need to pop the keys off to get a proper clean.
Best to not require a deep cleaning.
Low pressure air should be enough.
Don't drink or eat around the keyboard...
Cover with a cloth, etc when not in use.
blackhawk said:
Best to not require a deep cleaning.
Low pressure air should be enough.
Don't drink or eat around the keyboard...
Cover with a cloth, etc when not in use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using the plastic cover which came along woth my Sharkoon Skiller MECH SGK3 to protect it over night from dust. If I have to remove dust, I'm using an Opolar Air Duster(better than air duster spray and more environmental friendly)
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strongst said:
I'm using the plastic cover which came along woth my Sharkoon Skiller MECH SGK3 to protect it over night from dust. If I have to remove dust, I'm using an Opolar Air Duster(better than air duster spray and more environmental friendly)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would use my Craftsmen shop vac with the brush attachment
strongst said:
I'm using the plastic cover which came along woth my Sharkoon Skiller MECH SGK3 to protect it over night from dust. If I have to remove dust, I'm using an Opolar Air Duster(better than air duster spray and more environmental friendly)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I need one of those!
orb3000 said:
I need one of those!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I recommend to buy it from the manufacturer, took some time too deliver, but cheaper compared to amazon
I prefer the "Tony Stark Special." Cleans everything!
orb3000 said:
I need one of those!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Today I received a newsletter from opolar.com where they offer 50% including free shipping hence you can get the duster for just 28,49$
strongst said:
Today I received a newsletter from opolar.com where they offer 50% including free shipping hence you can get the duster for just 28,49$
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A brush attachment on a vacuum cleaner does the job very well plus it doesn't "throw" the dust around.
Just make sure the keys are secure...
I used my shop vac like this all the time. To clean pro cams and lens after shooting in a dusty location too. The problem with pressurized air is it can drive dust deeper into the victim device, a vacuum is less likely to. Lol, don't apply vacuum to zoom lense vent holes, etc.
blackhawk said:
A brush attachment on a vacuum cleaner does the job very well plus it doesn't "throw" the dust around.
Just make sure the keys are secure...
I used my shop vac like this all the time. To clean pro cams and lens after shooting in a dusty location too. The problem with pressurized air is it can drive dust deeper into the victim device, a vacuum is less likely to. Lol, don't apply vacuum to zoom lense vent holes, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using the opolar also for my DSLM sensor, plants(vacuum cleaner isn't practical here), to clean my vacuum cleaner(Dyson V10), RC car, my PC(small gaps and slots where the air pressure can go deeper) and so on.
I'm mainly surprised that it's better than a can of compressed gas. Same and steady pressure, no ice, no harmful/inflammable gas and cheaper.
Of course, there are cases where a vacuum cleaner does a better job, as you explained
strongst said:
I'm using the opolar also for my DSLM sensor, plants(vacuum cleaner isn't practical here), to clean my vacuum cleaner(Dyson V10), RC car, my PC(small gaps and slots where the air pressure can go deeper) and so on.
I'm mainly surprised that it's better than a can of compressed gas. Same and steady pressure, no ice, no harmful/inflammable gas and cheaper.
Of course, there are cases where a vacuum cleaner does a better job, as you explained
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use both sometimes together. I use a 10 psi dry air source as well for delicate devices.
High pressure air is not recommended and canned air can cause condensation if colder than ambient temperature... definitely not desirable.
strongst said:
Today I received a newsletter from opolar.com where they offer 50% including free shipping hence you can get the duster for just 28,49$
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the heads up!
If you're going to get a vacuum cleaner for use on a PC, consider buying a proper anti-static or "IT" vacuum. Most normal vacuum cleaners can produce a build-up of static charge which, if discharged into electronics, cause permanently damage them.
At work, we use a slightly uncool ESD vacuum cleaner. It's very powerful and we can use it inside computers and on any sensitive broadcast equipment without worrying about killing memory chips or damaging other components.
Anti-Static Vacuum Cleaner | ESD Vacuuming Solutions | Bondline
A lightweight ESD vacuum cleaner for precise removal of dust particles and debris from electrostatic sensitive devices. Shop here.
www.bondline.co.uk
orb_selektor said:
Thanks for the heads up!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For what it's worth, I navigated to that site and my Fakespot extension immediately flagged this seller as problematic:
As usual, buyer beware. That product looks pretty cheaply made for an expensive sticker price and hardly what I'd call durable. Save your money and buy better.
christopherwoods said:
If you're going to get a vacuum cleaner for use on a PC, consider buying a proper anti-static or "IT" vacuum. Most normal vacuum cleaners can produce a build-up of static charge which, if discharged into electronics, cause permanently damage them.
At work, we use a slightly uncool ESD vacuum cleaner. It's very powerful and we can use it inside computers and on any sensitive broadcast equipment without worrying about killing memory chips or damaging other components.
Anti-Static Vacuum Cleaner | ESD Vacuuming Solutions | Bondline
A lightweight ESD vacuum cleaner for precise removal of dust particles and debris from electrostatic sensitive devices. Shop here.
www.bondline.co.uk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol I saw those cute, expensive ESD tech vacs over a decade ago. If cleaning PC's, Xray equipment etc professionally I probably invest in a big expensive one.
The only time I'm really concerned with the shop vac is with loose out of circuit components and PCB's. It goes no where near them.
It is unlikely anything will be damaged as the keyboard inputs are fairly well protected.
If concerned disconnect from the PC and earth ground discharge yourself before reconnecting.
Carelessly plugging in to USB ports with a high static charge on their person is how most people damage a PC with static. Or sometimes touching the keyboard on a dry day. Simply touching an earth ground before touching the keyboard prevents that. Something I actually do in the winter.
Wear cotton not wool or synthetics...
I used the 6hp wet/dry vac for years on my pro cams, laptops and keyboards with zero damage.
To generate a static charge a good flow of particles must be present. There's just not that much dust.
The greatest hazard is too much suction sucking up a loose part or in the case of lens if you're not careful to avoid the vents, sucking dust into them.
If the RH is below 50% you might want to wait
For cleaning out PC cases I simply use compressed clean air and the shop vac to catch the dust. In circuit components like ram sticks are well protected especially if the case/power supply are earth grounded ie plugged in. I was however careful not to get too close to components with the compressed air or go too nuts with huge clouds of dust.
If really concerned about ESD, get a quality ESD meter. That's the only way to know what's there.
There's much more static present of materials and objects than most could imagine especially on dry days. Once charged it can linger for minutes or hours.
As with anything though, use your best judgment.
Better safe than sorry at least until you get tired of goofing and around getting nowhere
christopherwoods said:
For what it's worth, I navigated to that site and my Fakespot extension immediately flagged this seller as problematic:
View attachment 5403495
View attachment 5403497
As usual, buyer beware. That product looks pretty cheaply made for an expensive sticker price and hardly what I'd call durable. Save your money and buy better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought 3 times there(while products on sale) and the seller is reliable and shipping is fast including the quality of the products which they deliver. They even gave me a partial refund for shippiong the wrong color.
christopherwoods said:
If you're going to get a vacuum cleaner for use on a PC, consider buying a proper anti-static or "IT" vacuum. Most normal vacuum cleaners can produce a build-up of static charge which, if discharged into electronics, cause permanently damage them.
At work, we use a slightly uncool ESD vacuum cleaner. It's very powerful and we can use it inside computers and on any sensitive broadcast equipment without worrying about killing memory chips or damaging other components.
Anti-Static Vacuum Cleaner | ESD Vacuuming Solutions | Bondline
A lightweight ESD vacuum cleaner for precise removal of dust particles and debris from electrostatic sensitive devices. Shop here.
www.bondline.co.uk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's one other fly in the ointment with non ESD vacs and even potentially ESD vacs that use a brush attachment. The high volume air flow causes the bristles to rub against themselves and the objects they touch.
This can produce static electricity and a charge potential can build up. Potentially discharging to anything it touches.
Static conductive bristles with an earth ground metal holder at their base would help dissipate the build up charge. A modified shop vac ESD adapter could be made like this.
I assume the whole body, hose and tools of the ESD vacs are made of conductive plastic, or a variation as described above, to bled off charges.
Regardless the conductive ESD plastic(s) should be earth grounded.
Also even if these precautions are taken static charge potential will build up to some extent; your goal is to limit production/voltage potential and slow discharge through contacted charged objects enough to prevent damaging voltage potential/current volume to flow through sensitive components. This may not be possible especially in dry conditions.
Always double check the actual value being generated with a good ESD meter.
Out of circuit components and assemblies are at very high risk of ESD damage; never vacuum these! Use compressed clean air instead.
Using a high volume balanced air ionizer in close proximity is another solution and probably the best
kunalneo said:
You’ve done your research, compared them all, and finally settled on a great new mechanical keyboard that elevates your experience to the maximum. But no matter which one you go for, it’s impossible for it to remain clean and fresh all the time. All the sweaty gaming sessions, crumbs of food, and of course the biggest culprit – dust! It’s a good habit to clean your keyboard at least once every couple of months and to help you out, we’ve some quick tips for keeping your precious mechanical keyboard spotless.
I’m a bit of a clean freak, so usually, there’s a dust blower and a set of cleaning brushes at hand’s reach. I end up doing a quick clean-up of my keyboard at least once a week with the occasional wiping with a microfiber cloth. While that might sound a bit too much, performing a simple clean-up at least once a month is recommended as it ensures that your keyboard runs properly for longer. The gap between your cleanups can be increased or decreased depending on various conditions like dust accumulation, how much hair/skin you shed, whether you have pets, how much food you eat while sitting at your PC, and so on.
Simple CleaningDisconnect your keyboard, turn it around, and give it a shake, so that all the loose debris can fall out. If required, use an air blower or a few light sprays of canned air to remove any remaining crumbs or debris. Do remember that you’re basically blowing dust and debris around, so unless you want a dirty desk, it’s advised to clean your keyboard out in the open. It’s also advised to be extra careful when using compressed air from a can, as there are cases when it can lead to the formation of condensation that can damage some metallic parts on the keyboard.
You can also use a cleaning brush to remove any gunk stuck between or under the keys and quickly remove them using a vacuum cleaner. To remove sweat stains, especially ones on your keys or wrist rest, use a clean damp cloth to wipe off those marks. I would highly recommend following this simple cleanup procedure regularly to avoid the accumulation of dust, food particles, hair, and dead skin underneath the keys over time.
Deep CleaningFor those who haven’t cleaned their keyboard in a very long period, it’s time for some deep cleaning. Start by following the same process as I mentioned above to shake off any loose gunk. Next, remove all the keycaps from the keyboard. These should easily come off or be removed using a keycap puller tool usually bundled with most mechanical keyboards. If you don’t have one, you can buy one from here. Ensure that you don’t use excessive force or any heavy tools that can damage the keycaps. Be careful while removing larger keys like Spacebar, Enter, and Backspace, as they may have a stabilizer for support.
If you’ve never removed keycaps in the past, head over to your keyboard OEM’s website for guidance. Also, it’s a good habit to organize the keycaps as you remove them. You can also take a picture of the keyboard layout before taking the keycaps off, as this will help you in the faster reinstallation of the keycaps.
Once you’ve removed all of them, clean the entire deck using a cleaning brush, an air blower, or a vacuum cleaner. If you spilled something on the keyboard in the past like coffee or soda, use a damp cloth to wipe off the stains. For stubborn and sticky stains, you can use a tiny bit of dishwashing solution or isopropyl alcohol as well. Make sure you don’t use any liquids directly on the keyboard; rather apply some directly onto a cleaning cloth. This is to ensure that no liquid enters the internals, which could potentially damage the keyboard permanently. Do check the keyboard feet for any grime or dust buildup and a quick look at the keyboard cable to ensure there’s no potential damage.
Clean each keycap with a damp cloth or simply throw them in water with some soap if you want all your keys to be shiny on the inside and outside. Wipe off any stains and let them dry off. If you’ve used any liquids, I recommend leaving the keyboard and the keycaps to dry overnight. After you’ve ensured that everything is clean, start by putting back the keycaps on the mainboard. Whatever you do, be certain that everything is completely dry before plugging the keyboard into your PC.
Further MaintenanceTo further maintain the longevity of your keyboard, make sure you take time to clean it periodically. In fact, ensure that you clean all your PC parts at regular intervals if you want them to last longer. Most importantly, manage your cables. Not only does that make your setup look good, but it also ensures that the cables don’t wear out quickly. If the cable on your keyboard is long and just hanging about, use some velcro or zip ties to tidy it up.
We have also listed down some of the best mechanical keyboards to buy this year, in case you are planning to buy one.
Here is a list of some of the items mentioned above:
Dust cleaning air blower
Anti-static cleaning brush kit
Key puller
Compressed air can
Velcro straps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sometimes prevention is better than cure I have found that using either a boot rubber cover that can be easily washed in a sink of soapy water or using a vacuum machine 2 basically sous vide pack your keyboard without impairing mechanical action can sometimes help.
When it comes down to cable cleanliness I do find that bundles of cables on my desktop lead to collection of dust particles and dirt and with a high powered PC blowing 40 degree temperature air around the room this can sometimes become a major problem. I myself invested in a fairly cheap mouse and keyboard wireless setup some years ago that were both designed to shun any liquid spills this means there were membranes internally that stop any tea coffee or soft drink from invading their vitals. Also this removes the need to worry about extraneous cabling..
D.
I clean the keyboard with an air duster and sometimes cover it with a clean cloth when I don't use it. But sometimes I feel it needs deep cleaning.
Related
i know this thread should probably be under the general device section, but i'm not sure if the hermes has a special screen or not (h200/cingular8525)
i was out looking at a house to rent, noticed their mailbox got smashed so i picked it up-- in the process i scratched the hell out of my screen (it causes my fingernail to jump when i run it over the scratch, but its not deep enough to effect using the stylus under it)
i don't have any type of protection plan AFAIK (though its a retail purchased NEW 8525 from a corp store if that makes a difference)
so, basically i'm wondering if there are any types of scratch hiding methods that are proven to work well for the screen? i'm thinking CD refinishing items might help (mentioned on a few threads when i searched).. should i find a dremel and some high speed cloth polishing wheels to eat away the ridges around the scratch?
edit:
this seems to be just a surface scratch in the screen coating, if i use the stylus over the scratch it still draws correctly in pencilbox.
r u using softcase or something ?
I use Krussel leather case and it work.
anyway just minor scartch is fine as long as u now broken ur LCD.
For minor scratches Brass cleaning cloth or liquid works well but be careful not to overdo it. In the UK the brand name Brasso is ok. Essentially these products contain micro particles impregnated into a cloth or liquid. Never pour liquid onto the screen but use a little on a cloth.
Very much a use at your own risk solution!
Mike
try applesauce polish. http://www.applesaucepolish.com/
You know the story - you baby the phone, buy it a protective skin from day one, and then...
..you're out to dinner with the wife and she spills her girlie, loaded with sugar drink all over the table, including your phone.
Today, the Menu button is a little sticky, and the trackball refuses to navigate in some directions (it'll go up and left only).
I know the trackball is the same as the one used in some Blackberries, and I've seen the online tutorials on how to clean them, I was wondering if anyone here had a similar problem, and if they just waited it out (if it returns to normal) or if they had either cleaned or replaced their own.
Mine kept sticking and would do it like 10 times a day so i got a replacement.
Don't know, but with the Apple trackball mice the usual suggestion is to turn it upside down and rub the trackball vigorously on a piece of paper. Perhaps rubbing it over a baby wipe or alcohol wipe might help in your case to get the sugar out?
ive just started to have this problem without any water damage, just give it a whack on the back and all sorted for another month
I'd just use a q-tip with rubbing alcohol and vigorously wipe it down, i'd make sure some of the alcohol seeps into the cracks though. I've done it on xbox controllers and it always seemed to clear it up.
cleaning alcohol, as suggested, is probably your best option. because of it's fast evaporation rate, it makes it ideal for cleaning electrical equipment. turn it off first though
If an exterior-only cleaning with alcohol doesn't do the trick then you might want to grab the service manual from the dev subforum and disassemble the phone. That will let you separate the hardware buttons and casing from the actual electronics. Then you can go to town. Working the buttons while immmersed in a deionized water bath should clear out any water-soluble gunk.
Be mindful not to immerse any items with membranes that might not be able to evaporate moisture out. E.g. lcd assy, speaker assy, etc.
Haven't had time to do it yet - it's semi-recovered since then (will occasionally move in the ordered direction, but not consistently).
The Blackberry forums had a tutorial on pulling it apart and cleaning the trackball. Didn't look that difficult, since the trackball can be pried out on the 8xxx series BB's without any disassembly.
I'm going to dig through the service manual and see how onerous taking apart the unit is; if it's easy enough to do, I'm going to free up the trackball and give it a proper cleaning. If not, I'm going to try either isopropyl alcohol or an electronics cleaning solvent as mentioned in the above posts.
Edit: After a quick look through the service manual, looks like disassembly is a no-go. Don't feel like risking the whole device to fix a wonky trackball.
Yeah, dismantling the 8100 BB was super easy but cleaning the teeny connectors was a bit tedious. I haven't checked out the breakdown procedure for the G1 but if the trackball hang-ups were anywhere near as bad as on the BB - it'd almost be a necessity.
Although navigation was more trackball-centric on the BB... I wouldn't be able to stand it. The cleaning part is pretty simple.
I was just curious how you guys keep your nexus clean, How you keep the screen and trackball looking like new. I just use a damp washcloth on the screen and for the trackball... well i haven't really cleaned the trackball much (probably something i need to start doing before it starts to stick)
Thanks
For the screen I use the typical cloth used for glasses. I haven't cleaned my trackball and it's pretty good looking. I'm a heavy trackball user.
put it inside the washer machine a quarter water full, add a teaspoon of detergent, 2 teaspoons of alcohol, and give it a two minutes cycle. Important, don't forget to seat it up on AIRPLANE MODE or it may get bricked. Do this once or twice a month.
Same way I do for all my electronics:
Mixture of 98% isopropyl alcohol and water in a small sprayer. Mist and then wipe with a microfiber cloth. Of course you don't want to soak it, and try to avoid openings. But the good thing is that the alcohol not only evaporates fast it disinfects!
Quick wipe on the sleeve of what I'm wearing usually suffices, but I give it a going over with an optical wipe once in a while too.
i steam mine with the vegetables every dinner.
Powerwasher.
I have one powered by a 6.5 Honda engine. I have to use the wimpy nozzle though, because the more powerful ones push soggy dust under the digitizer.
pongalong said:
But the good thing is that the alcohol not only evaporates fast it disinfects!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a myth, actually. Alcohol doesn't disinfect terribly well at all. If you want to disinfect, bleach will do a far better job. However, bleach won't flash off surfaces like alcohol will.
I just wipe it on my jeans...The thing is durable.... not fine china
Lick it with my tongue. And use shirt. Works great
temperbad said:
Lick it with my tongue. And use shirt. Works great
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Eewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww
Just wipe it vigourously on my shirt of pants, that usually leaves the screen smudge free
attn1 said:
That's a myth, actually. Alcohol doesn't disinfect terribly well at all. If you want to disinfect, bleach will do a far better job. However, bleach won't flash off surfaces like alcohol will.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alcohols, usually ethanol or isopropanol, are sometimes used as a disinfectant, but more often as an antiseptic (the distinction being that alcohol tends to be used on living tissue rather than nonliving surfaces). They are non-corrosive, but can be a fire hazard. They also have limited residual activity due to evaporation, which results in brief contact times unless the surface is submerged, and have a limited activity in the presence of organic material. Alcohols are most effective when combined with purified water to facilitate diffusion through the cell membrane; 100% alcohol typically denatures only external membrane proteins. A mixture of 70% ethanol or isopropanol diluted in water is effective against a wide spectrum of bacteria, though higher concentrations are often needed to disinfect wet surfaces. Additionally, high-concentration mixtures (such as 80% ethanol + 5% isopropanol) are required to effectively inactivate lipid-enveloped viruses (such as HIV, hepatitis B, and hepatitis C).Alcohol is, at best, only partly effective against most non-enveloped viruses (such as hepatitis A), and is not effective against fungal and bacterial spores.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From wiki
For cleaning a phone, alcohol will do.
attn1 said:
That's a myth, actually. Alcohol doesn't disinfect terribly well at all. If you want to disinfect, bleach will do a far better job. However, bleach won't flash off surfaces like alcohol will.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I work in a biological lab and 70% alcohol is good enough to clean the benches.
OT: I use a moist cloth to wipe the phone and occasionally I use 70% isopropanol wipes.
ap3604 said:
Eewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Spits good for a lot of things....lol
regularly use compressed air duster to keep it as dust free as possible... (to much lint in pockets ;-P)... and i use diluted alcohol spray and a microfibre cloth to clean the phone...
liam.lah said:
Just wipe it vigourously on my shirt of pants, that usually leaves the screen smudge free
From wiki
For cleaning a phone, alcohol will do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll go along with that.
Just sayin' - alcohol in the form it is commonly used for as a disinfectant is not as effective as people think it is. As your link pointed out, viruses tend to be harder to deal with than bateria. I saw a nit so I picked.
Hey, if it's your phone, why not use spit if it works?
temperbad said:
Lick it with my tongue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As opposed to licking it with your ring-piece?
My girl friend take her time & lick's it spotless
I was constantly wiping the screen with a micro-fiber cloth (which works very well). However, I just applied a screen protector to my N1 (by Skinomi). I have to say, that the screen protector is much more resistant to smudges. The touch screen response is still the same. I highly recommend it.
my jeans would do the cleaning....
Polishing plastic is the same as polishing anything. The one major concern is what you use and making sure it is chemically compatible with the material you are polishing. Test it by doing the inside and apply and rub lightly then look at after it sat for 30 seconds or so. You will be able to see if it reacting or not.
Second thing, is how deep the scratch is, because if it is real deep you will polish out the scratch and the result is a dip in the material where the scratch used to be as a result of removing enough material to get the scratch to disappear.. That itself may be a worse than the original scratch..... it all depends. So, you have to use your discerning eye to evaluate is the "fix worse than the existing damage".
a Light very shallow scratch--- you can use rotten stone (get at a art supply or some hardware stores) and linseed oil. You can use other oils but this one is the standard historically (because this is the oil that makes up oil paint in artist paints). Take a few drops of the oil and put on the surface to be polished and apply a little of the rotten stone and rub in a circular motion with a soft cloth (I like an old tee shirt 100 % cotton). The advantage of doing this method is the rotten stone is the cutting and polishing agent. That means you can control how much you want to use. Use more at first, clean it off and use less the second time, then on the final pass use even less. You can make plastic look like optical glass with enough effort. Try to refrain from using a machine to speed up the process... doing this as it will heat up the surface and REALLY F-UP the whole thing. I have had excellent results doing repairs this way.Just doing by hand takes longer and more patience.
If the scratch is really deep then, you can live it OR.... you find a compatible clear hard setting plastic glue or fill (this can be hard to find you need to know what the material really is) that will correctly bond to the material that needs repair. Now--- you will need to fill the scratch (divit) with this carefully, only filling the scratch and then let set for 24 hours or until it is totally dry. Then do the exact procedure as mentioned above. Remember.... if you use fill the surfacing MUST be perfectly clean otherwise, you will trap debris in the fix.
This fix can be done on almost anything as long as the material will not absorb the oil of grab the rotten stone. There are other things you can use but this is what we use when repairing antique and ancient items. hope that helps-- good luck
No, that's not a euphemism
My OUYA controller's L2/R2 triggers seemed a little stiff, like there was some unnecessary friction coming from somewhere. Not sure if anyone else has this same 'issue', but here's what I done to solve it...
- Dismantle the controller (seriously easy, 6 Philips screws under the faceplates and then just lift the 2 halves apart from each other)
- On the rear of the main PCB, you'll see the mount brackets and springs for the triggers. They seem to operate using some kind of latch system, and it's that latch brushing against the bracket that was causing the friction. (pull the trigger, you'll see it move)
- The scientific bit: squirt a blob of WD40 (or any spray oil-based lubricant) onto the bracket at the point where you can see the 'latch' move when you pull on the trigger.
- I also used some WD40 on a lint-free cloth to grease the spring itself, and the 'arms' on the actual trigger button (use a plastic opening tool to pry it away from the bracket).
After this, much less friction on the L2/R2 triggers, also eliminates that faint 'grinding' sound if you pull on the triggers ever so slowly. Much more 'fluid' feeling.
Not sure if this is of any use to anyone, figured I'd post it on the off chance it helps someone out. Also I have no idea how long this workaround will last before you have to do it again.
DroidXero said:
- The scientific bit: squirt a blob of WD40 (or any spray oil-based lubricant) onto the bracket at the point where you can see the 'latch' move when you pull on the trigger.
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I'm pretty sure regular WD40 isn't actually a lubricant. When you use it on plastics, it dries up in a few days and you're back to where you were to begin with. You may have longer lasting results with silicon spray lubricant. The WD40 website says don't use it on polycarbonite plastic. http://wd40.com/faqs/#a98 I think injection molded plastic is polycarbonite?
I'm fairly certain WD40 is a solvent. The WD is for water displacement. I've done quite a bit of work on bungalows built on stilts. When power tools would get dropped we'd immediately rinse them with fresh water and then spray WD40 in until they were saturated. Let them dry out overnight and they usually would work again. Of course they were still affected and burned out more quickly.
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Thanks for the info guys. May well try and get my hands on a silicone-based spray.
Where I'm from we have 2 very simple DIY rules:
- Does it move? Yes. Should it? No. Duct tape.
- Does it move? No. Should it? Yes. WD40!
I posted that to Reddit a little bit ago:
How to make trigger buttons smooth as butter:
The problem is that there is no grease on the plastic-on-plastic movement of the triggers. I did that for both my controllers (maybe I should have made a video...):
Remove the 2 face plates and batteries
Remove the 6 screws of the controller and open it up
Get yourself non conducting grease (search Amazon for dielectric grease)
Apply one small dot of grease at all these areas (look at attached picture) (basically everywhere plastic slides on plastic)
Action the trigger many times to distribute the grease
Re-assemble the controller, and enjoy stick-free triggers.
I really wish Ouya would have done that first-hand. It is a very easy thing to fix that would not have cost them much... Hope that helps!
dyniper said:
I posted that to Reddit a little bit ago:
How to make trigger buttons smooth as butter:
The problem is that there is no grease on the plastic-on-plastic movement of the triggers. I did that for both my controllers (maybe I should have made a video...):
Remove the 2 face plates and batteries
Remove the 6 screws of the controller and open it up
Get yourself non conducting grease (search Amazon for dielectric grease)
Apply one small dot of grease at all these areas (look at attached picture) (basically everywhere plastic slides on plastic)
Action the trigger many times to distribute the grease
Re-assemble the controller, and enjoy stick-free triggers.
I really wish Ouya would have done that first-hand. It is a very easy thing to fix that would not have cost them much... Hope that helps!
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Click to collapse
Petroleum jelly is what i used
modder420 said:
Petroleum jelly is what i used
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Now there's an idea, didn't think of that. Although, my WD40 method is still working a treat.