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Each time when replacing battery date and time settings on my wizard return to default settings.
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Watchman said:
It seems CMOS battery on motherboard is dead.
Is there any way to change it and where to buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new. Every time when I remove battery, I must set my clock and date again and again.
RTC Battery
nikolica said:
I don't believe that You're battery is dead. It's also heppend to me when my phone was new.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Wizard is about two years old and I have had not noticed it happening before .
I plan to open housing soon to look for such battery.
RE
If You need help for opening You're wizard look this article
http://www.pdagold.com/articles/detail.asp?a=274
you can't, really.
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. this retains enough charge to keep the RTC time right, and they wear out. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
RTC battery
landwomble said:
there's a "gold cap" small capacitor surface-mounted to the motherboard of your wizard top left. replacing one is risky, as the heat from a conventional soldering gun may damage components - it's something i'd advise just living with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can not live with it, used to swap batteries very often.
Can anybody suggest proper soldering tool and web shop where to buy such tool and capacitor.
I plan to open housing anyway because I want to replace housing for new.
Backup Battery in Wizard plus other devices
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
no one uses a capacitor for saving data(even time and date) except for desktop RAM but that's just cause it gets powered up all the time by the PS.
of course a capacitor is used for short-time memory.. but it's not more than 2-3 minutes. the only way you'd be able to keep it for a long term is to have a XuF capacitor with a small battery..
these batteries are known to die frequently due to voltage shocks and extra current. the phone itself has a safety mechanism in which if you connect it to different voltage sources, as long as they're in a thin range of voltages, will manage to charge.. but some of the inner mechanisms (such as that capacitor).. are burnt during charging.
Nandaly said:
... my first post ... yes I'm a noob.
Answering to something that may be a little dated, but hopefully it will come in handy for someone.
Regarding the small backup battery in Wizard (plus likely other devices). This is indeed a small battery, and not a (gold cap) capacitor as suggested in literature/previous posts.
My device too suffered this loss in time with replacement of main battery.
I sourced the battery on line (only place I found it was at DigiKey). They were $2.75/ea. plus handling fee ($6.50) plus delivery ($8.00) and of course let's not forget those taxes.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/C081/P2214.pdf (- see Figure 1 on pdf)
It is a magnesium lithium ion rechargeable (Panasonic ML414RM/F9A - DigiKey P003CT-ND). I ordered 4 on-line (I have more than one Wizard, both suffering from the same plague - one is the one I do all the fun hacking on, and keep/use one as my main workhorse. What's fun is one is G3 and the other G4 so any ROM cooking I have tried Main OS and Extended, I can validate on both types ... sorry ... back to the battery)...
I replaced the one battery to test and it worked. It now works fine and retains the time/date settings.
Now the nore technical stuff. How was it determined that it was indeed a battery and not a capacitor. Well first of all looking at it (I work a lot with electronics). Secondly, after removing I measured a small voltage on the battery. I shorted the two leads, and measured again. The voltage began to rise again. If it were a capcitor, shorting the ends would eliminate any charge and that would be it. Being as it is a battery, it revives and returns to the pre-shorted voltage again (a capacitor would not do this).
Check your device and check the battery (if possible) before trying yourself. As I mentioned I do a lot with electronics and so I feel comfortable doing this.
For those who may want to attempt themself, a fine tipped electronics soldering iron can be used (from a Radio Shack or Source or any electronics hobby shop). Get low melting temperature solder (avoid the silver solders as these have higher melting points - don't want to cook the battery). Tin the battery leads before soldering to the board. Clean and re-tin the board itself. Avoid heating/over heating the battery too long as this will "cook" the electrolyte and dramatically shorten the battery life if not destry it. Very little on the board around this battery so less likely to do any damage to the board. If you do try .... GOOD LUCK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The service manual speaks about a GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V (which isn't a normal capacitor) but mine looked like a small battery.
Mine was looking green because of some oxide on it. (caused by rainy jackets I thihk)
Is it really possible that the service manual is wrong? I thought there are also rechargable button cells...do you know for sure a regular lithium cell is ok?
(oh, my device is a prophet)
THIS IS A HIGH CAPACITY CAPACITOR also called super capacitor.
looking at what is printed GoldCap 0,07F, 70Ohm, 3,3V
F=Farad (capacitance values are normally specified in nano, micro, milli farads etc
I tried soldering on a broken USB connector in a wizard once but messed it all up, it seems they use some RoHS tin which makes it very difficult to make clean connections.
No! Not A Capacitor! Yes A Battery!
Folks,
This is indeed a battery in the HTC Wizard and NOT A CAPACITOR. A 0.07F capacitor would be physically several times larger than the phone itself.
So regardless of what is "printed" in the service manual, this is a small magnesium lithium ion rechargeable battery.
I have changed on 2 HTC Wizards (branded ATT Cingular 8125).
What I took out was exact identical to what I purchsed from Digikey (on-line as posted in my earlier comment)(and yes, the soldering is/was a tad bit difficult - if you do not know what you are doing).
Signed (Nandaly), B.A.Sc., P.Eng.
Hi everyone,
First of all, I apologize in advance,
1. Because I know this isn't a tech support forum.
2. Because I don't contribute and help out as much as I should.
Coming here was a last resort, I don't consider myself a noob, but I'm really stuck here.
Please note that I appreciate every single response, and I will donate if anyone can give me a fix.
With that aside, let me get started
__________________________________
Okay so about a week ago, I accidentally bent my charger when it was charging my note.
It didn't charge at all that night
That morning, I blew into the charge port on my note, suspecting that dust may have been the cause.
Somehow, that helped, as my note charged fully that day, in about 2-3 hours
Then I tried charging it the next night.
It charged incredibly slowly, reaching about 70% after 10 hours charge
The next few nights were similar, but reaching no more than 40% charge after 10 hours.
It got progressively worse, it would only charge if I applied pressure to the mini-usb,
I looked around this morning, and stumbled across another guy with the same problem
(see here http://www.galaxynoteforum.net/galaxy-note-help/charging-port-issue/ )
He advised,
"Well I have figured out the issue. If you look into the charging port slot on the phone you will notice a small thin flat piece of metal which inserts into the charger. That was slanted and angled downward which would not let "ANY" charger or docking station charge correctly also causing it to drain the battery. Contacts on this piece and the phone were to close causing a minor contact draining power. I used a precision flathead screw driver and lifted the piece slightly and now works fine"
So I tried that, and it seemed to help, as the note began charging, (extremely slowly, reaching about 30%)
Then I tried pushing that "thin flat piece of metal up even further"
However, I went too far, and I couldn't fit the charger into the charge port.
So I tried pushing it back into the centre but I may have damaged one of the pins in the charge port (inside the phone)
I seen a little spark, and the note turned off.
I tried switching it on, and managed to boot to safe mode (no idea how)
So then I tried charging it, I applied pressure and managed to get it to start charging. (thank god)
This was about 30 mins ago, it looks to be holding the charge at about 20%, but it's not increasing
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I suspect one of the pins in the note charge port was snapped off.. although I'm not sure.. (it appears to be the one on the right)
1.Does anyone know how many pins there are on the charge port inside the note? (is it 4 or 5?)
2.What should I do?
If I broke a pin, it should not charge at all, right? (but it seems to be charging)
3. Do I need to replace the charge port, if so, how much would it cost?
4. Would I be better off getting a charging station, and charging the battery using that
5. Should I try moving the metal strip again? (inside the charge port of the note)
oops forgot to mention, when the problem started, and the note was slow-charging, an audible buzzing/humming could be heard in the wall outlet
also, I'm using my original samsung usb charger, not a generic one, and I'm charging directly into a wall outlet.
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Thank you for taking the time to read this, I really appreciate it, and any advise that you do offer.
Cyber735
Here my tipp: You can go to a service center, maybe they even repair it under warranty. Or you can order a new micro usb port and replace it. Google should help you to find a seller. Depends on whether you feel comfortable enough to replace it yourself or not. Oh one more thing, I would stopp using your Note to avoid any further damage.
Sent from my Galaxy Note running ICS
there are 5 pins on the charger slot, 4 I believe are for data transfer and the 5th being the one that draws power (charges the phone)
Have you tried transferring data from PC to Phone and see how that pans out ?
Its possible to replace the USB port, Ive seen a few threads about this on XDA, A quick search should chuck out some results.
But as mentioned above, Try to claim under warranty first, if you have it, or pay the Service centre to do it if you dont feel confident enough to do it yourself.
I think I recall someone with a similar issue and it cost him / her $60 for USB replacement (convert that in to your currency)
If you have a friend with a Note or a phone that fits the Note's battery you could always charge your battery in that phone and place it into yours until you get it fixed.
IF YOU MUST charge your Note ( you could if you intend to get a new USB slot) I would suggest to charge only via USB - as in charging from your PC / Laptop / TV / PS3 etc. As this will not draw as much current as it would coming directly from the mains supply!
Good luck on getting it fixed, And please keep us posted with the results !
http://pinoutsguide.com/PortableDevices/micro_usb_pinout.shtml
check this out. It gives the pin configuration. I am no expert but hope it helps!
altae said:
Here my tipp: You can go to a service center, maybe they even repair it under warranty. Or you can order a new micro usb port and replace it. Google should help you to find a seller. Depends on whether you feel comfortable enough to replace it yourself or not. Oh one more thing, I would stopp using your Note to avoid any further damage.
Sent from my Galaxy Note running ICS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
r
Thanks for the quick reply!
First of all, I can confirm that no pins are broken or bent, everything looks normal, it also seems to be charging better, as I centred the metal strip in the charge port.
As for warranty, well I didn't purchase any extended warranty or insurance, however, the standard warranty lasts 2 years.
Unfortunately
The Repair Warranty Exclusions are as follows: (i) Subject to the inclusions of the applicable manufacturer's warranty, a mobile that has broken down or is damaged as a result of: (a) abuse or tampering, (b) electrical damage, moisture, dampness, oxidation, corrosion or food, dirt or liquid ingress (c) accident, neglect, impact, actual or attempted theft, fire, power outages or surges, or incorrect voltage, (d) transportation or packaging (e) removable batteries or damage caused by battery leakage
Basically, the only thing that I'm covered for is "handset breakdown"
My phone is in perfect condition, and no pins are broken or bent (as discovered on closer inspection)
So do you class charging issues as "handset breakdown" or not?
I may purchase a new charger, just in case the issue is with the charger, and not the phone,
What d'ya think?
Thanks again for the quick replies azzledazzle & nipuna, I didn't notice them until now,
Yeah I'm 90% there's no damage to the pins on the charge port, and it seems to be charging now, slowly at least,
I've centered the metal strip as best as I can, (inside the charge port)
I'll leave it to charge now for a while, as I'm not sure if it's fixed or not
Then I'll try another charger if it doesn't work
If all else fails, I'll try getting it repaired under warranty
(although that's more of a last resort, as it will take a few weeks to get my phone back)
does anyone know if the standard galaxy s2 charger will work on the note?
I don't have it on me now, although I could borrow it from a friend
I know its an official samsung charger, although not sure if it's the usb or the other kind.
I'll let it charge for a while, then I'll try transferring data from the laptop, to make sure the pins are fine,
thanks for all your help everyone,
1st of all: if you go poking around in the usb port with a metal screwdriver, take out the battery first. Not only will it avoid shortcutting and maybe blow a fuse inside the phone, but it will also protect you from an exploding battery when shortcutted !
S2 charger will work
Sent from my GT-N7000 using xda premium
Bad week this is. First my old Galaxy S3's USB port fails when I give it to my dad (no data, otherwise charges), now my brother's 2 year old Nexus 4 dies.
I did all the troubleshooting and found the fixes involving the battery contacts and removal, the emergency reset procedures using the hardware keys, and the battery itself. No fix.
Battery is good, tests 3.75V, and won't charge anymore after leaving on different chargers. Disassembled whole phone and cleaned and checked all parts
Phone has been overheating for a while now as I was told, my brother is very lazy and never did anything about it, he told me his back screen even cracked from intense heat(Hard to Believe)
Now that it's dead, I noticed that the battery was cold, but the phone was well hot when on charger. After testing I found the Power Management chip to be heating up way to much and only 1.8V
going to battery at charge pins. Part is by Qualcomm, PM8921 and is used on other phones like my Galaxy S3. Seems this is the defective component causing all this. Look at left chip in picture.
Problem is desoldering and soldering is a job Santa's little helpers or a bot. This is damn near impossible to do by a human, especially by me. Found chips on ebay and alibaba which range from
$2 ea. bulk to about $8 individually. Wonder what now... anyone else think it may be something else? Throw away? Find professional to solder in?
I found a dropped galaxy S4 i9500 in the woods. Now I'd like to know how could I connect a battery to see if it works, is the glass only broken or is it the digitizer and the screen as well, and possibly something else.
Since I don't know anyone that has an S4 to lend me the battery could I try booting it with another phone's battery? I got some 3.7V ~860mAh batteries from old Nokia/Huawei phones, do they have enough power? I read the original one from the S4 has 2600mAh and under battery it says "rated 3.8V; 1300mA". That means I can't go over or under this rated voltage/current?
Thanks for any help.
I guess you might be able to power it if you manage to fit the battery or connect wires to the connectors.
Those specifications are more like guide lines. You should be able to run at a slightly higher/lower voltage, but it may not be stable.
Pwnycorn said:
I guess you might be able to power it if you manage to fit the battery or connect wires to the connectors.
Those specifications are more like guide lines. You should be able to run at a slightly higher/lower voltage, but it may not be stable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I planned to connect them using wires but the problem is that these old batteries have only three connectors while S4 has four connectors. I'm guessing those are for balancing and temperature control? Should I go around those and just connect the plus and minus?
I have two original nook first editions, both had puffy batteries, and would not charge or turn on, I took out the batteries, but was wondering if I can run them off of their chargers. Would be willing to root or run new software, I just want to see them run again... thanks!
farmerstele3 said:
I took out the batteries, but was wondering if I can run them off of their chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe. There's a couple of problems here.
The first is simply that the USB charging circuit usually can't deliver the peak current required by the device.
Next is the fact that the battery check is probably in different places in the code.
It's easier to pretend that you have a battery.
That means that you need a 4V to 4.3V supply connected in where the battery was.
Depending on how many wires go to the battery pack there may be temperature sensors or ID resistors.
You need to keep the old ones or implement new ones.
I've got half a dozen devices that have been so modified.
How many wires/colors does the battery connector have? Photo would be appreciated.
You need to either reuse the little BMS circuit board or measure it and implement it.
Here's a photo of my brand new Walmart Onn8 tablet that is running off a 4V supply
Renate said:
Maybe. There's a couple of problems here.
The first is simply that the USB charging circuit usually can't deliver the peak current required by the device.
Next is the fact that the battery check is probably in different places in the code.
It's easier to pretend that you have a battery.
That means that you need a 4V to 4.3V supply connected in where the battery was.
Depending on how many wires go to the battery pack there may be temperature sensors or ID resistors.
You need to keep the old ones or implement new ones.
I've got half a dozen devices that have been so modified.
How many wires/colors does the battery connector have? Photo would be appreciated.
You need to either reuse the little BMS circuit board or measure it and implement it.
Here's a photo of my brand new Walmart Onn8 tablet that is running off a 4V supply
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll have to rip it apart again, so it will be a while.