Related
Hi,
It is really exciting that we are starting to get some real android car stereos on the market, that have software in them that can be entertained by the developers here on XDA. There are so many headunits that look the same with different hardware, look different with similar hardware, and are just altogether different. I can't find definitive information anywhere, and frankly search just returns too much scattered information to really sift through.
Needs:
Hands free quality is important.
hardware volume control - prefer a knob, but buttons are ok. I just do not want software volume buttons.
Rooted Android
3 sets of 4+ volt preouts, including controllable non-fading subwoofer preout
I don't care about a DVD/CD player - if it has one cool, but I don't need one.
What I'd like it to do:
"OK Google"
Tasker
Google Maps
Pandora
Spotify
Sirius/XM app - or Sirius satellite radio (I don't know if any of them do this natively)
Vevo
Kodi
Netflix
Hulu
Amazon Prime
Torque connected via bluetooth
bluetooth hands-free phone calls
WIFI tethered from Foxfi running on my phone
Am I looking for too much or is there a head unit that looks like it can accommodate this?
Summary Questions:
Other than price, is there any reason to consider the dual core (instead of the quad core) or the smaller resolution (i.e. are there some apps that don't work right with the larger resolution)?
Are some MCUs better than others?
Do all of the better Android head units suffer the problems with the microphone that will require modification to fix, or is there one out that has the fix already implemented? I saw the threads where people are desoldering stuff. Has that been resolved by some of the manufacturers, or am I destined to do that mod also?
Is there a really good aftermarket hands free microphone that is worth buying?
Is there sub pre-out control either on the stock firmware, or on a different ROM?
Is the sub pre-out affected by the fader?
What is the voltage at the pre-outs?
Do any of the units come with an IR sensor and/or a remote control?
Can I connect the bluetooth OBDII module, bluetooth phone, and wireless wifi tethering from the phone at the same time?
When text messages come into my cell phone, does the radio read them to me? Can I voice-to-text respond?
Does anyone see anything wrong with my needs, or the apps I plan to run?
Are any of them running newer iterations of Android? Is there anything stopping a developer from releasing a ROM with a newer android?
Should I be considering another unit? Is there an Android head unit other than one of the Hue Fei clones that would serve my needs better? Is there one Hue Fei clones that stands out as better than the others, or gets better support than the others, or that fits my needs better?
So it looks like the other two to consider other than the Hue Fei clones is the Newsmy which only has 1 RCA Pre-out and the Ownice which doesn't have root.
there is a new generation of AN-21U unbranded units floating around ali express. If you shop around you can get a good deal on one. Quad core R16 A9/1 GB RAM/up to 1080x600 res. There is little info on them so far since they are so new, but since they appear to be an update to a very popular pre-existing model, they should gain more support soon on xda.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...nd-generation-4-4-2-android-21u-ouku-t3230587
I have one coming in today and will update that thread with my impressions. I previously owned a carjoying UQ-124 so I will have a good unit to compare it to.
The carjoying unit was pretty solid but had one major issue - BT audio quality. The audio also was controlled by the MCU (poorly) which required a complex hardware mod to rectify. I also for some reason had stability issues w/ google now voice control (ok google)... worked sometimes but would crash >50% of the time.
I am hoping my new unit will not have these issues.
gijosh28 said:
So it looks like the other two to consider other than the Hue Fei clones is the Newsmy which only has 1 RCA Pre-out and the Ownice which doesn't have root.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Newsmy CarPad III (NRXXXX) has 5.1 pre-out available and uses the same MCU and ROM as the CarPad II (NUXXXX)
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/indashnet-world-s-first-open-source-infotainment/x/5292434#/story
This guy has been pretty responsive with his first 2 designs and now he's putting out an octa-core unit. Probably overkill but the indiegogo price is right. I don't know what his projected delivery dates are for this unit. You can check out his google+ page as well. That is his primary avenue for support and it seems to mostly work pretty well.
Hope i could provide some information. Please check the comments in quote.
gijosh28 said:
Hi,
It is really exciting that we are starting to get some real android car stereos on the market, that have software in them that can be entertained by the developers here on XDA. There are so many headunits that look the same with different hardware, look different with similar hardware, and are just altogether different. I can't find definitive information anywhere, and frankly search just returns too much scattered information to really sift through.
Needs:
Hands free quality is important.
hardware volume control - prefer a knob, but buttons are ok. I just do not want software volume buttons.
Rooted Android
3 sets of 4+ volt preouts, including controllable non-fading subwoofer preout
I don't care about a DVD/CD player - if it has one cool, but I don't need one.
What I'd like it to do:
"OK Google"
Tasker
Google Maps
Pandora
Spotify
Sirius/XM app - or Sirius satellite radio (I don't know if any of them do this natively)
Vevo
Kodi
Netflix
Hulu
Amazon Prime
Torque connected via bluetooth
bluetooth hands-free phone calls
WIFI tethered from Foxfi running on my phone
Am I looking for too much or is there a head unit that looks like it can accommodate this?
Summary Questions:
Other than price, is there any reason to consider the dual core (instead of the quad core) or the smaller resolution (i.e. are there some apps that don't work right with the larger resolution)?
Think mobile phone. it is similar.
Are some MCUs better than others?
What MCU done is about more low level works like power management. really depends on design. No base for comparing.
Do all of the better Android head units suffer the problems with the microphone that will require modification to fix, or is there one out that has the fix already implemented? I saw the threads where people are desoldering stuff. Has that been resolved by some of the manufacturers, or am I destined to do that mod also?
Most have mic built-in(in the panel), some have external connector which provide a chance to apply a good mic.
Is there a really good aftermarket hands free microphone that is worth buying?
No idea.
Is there sub pre-out control either on the stock firmware, or on a different ROM?
It is not about software/ROM/firmeware. this is by hardware design.
Is the sub pre-out affected by the fader?
Normally.
What is the voltage at the pre-outs?
depends on hardware design.
Do any of the units come with an IR sensor and/or a remote control?
Many.
Can I connect the bluetooth OBDII module, bluetooth phone, and wireless wifi tethering from the phone at the same time?
Wifi/BT same time for all head unit. BT OBD and BT Phone call together, it depends.
When text messages come into my cell phone, does the radio read them to me? Can I voice-to-text respond?
This could be done by one App which is not related to Head unit. don't know whether it exists already.
Does anyone see anything wrong with my needs, or the apps I plan to run?
could say no barrier. Need to check hardware related items.
Are any of them running newer iterations of Android? Is there anything stopping a developer from releasing a ROM with a newer android?
Lots of work is needed to port system to a newer version android. Similar as mobile phone.
Should I be considering another unit? Is there an Android head unit other than one of the Hue Fei clones that would serve my needs better? Is there one Hue Fei clones that stands out as better than the others, or gets better support than the others, or that fits my needs better?
no answer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I posted my thoughts on the 2nd gen AN-21U vs joying UQ-124 here -
http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...eration-4-4-2-android-21u-ouku-t3230587/page3
summary - new unit is better than joying in every way except for customization and xda support. I have not applied an external amp or sub to my system yet, but I will soon. I am already using custom speakers (focal 8"). BT audio quality is night and day difference over joying. Bad BT audio quality is not universal, joying just did a poor job b/c they wired internal & external mic in parallel & used low quality bt module. I highly recommend it, though I have only had a short time with it (less than a day). My thoughts may change as I get more time to find issues.
@nonstop2050, I like how active you are here, I would have loved to buy one of your units had you supported my vehicle. If someone were to buy how long would you take to ship? I had to wait 3 weeks for my unit... I think they manufacture units as the orders come in, they don't keep stock on hand.
The joying units with a single volume knob allow you to adjust the pre out voltage. I have mine feeding into a 4 channel amp, powering front hertz components and a single JBL sub. I use the crossover on the amplifier - more scope for adjustability & probably performs more consistently than the one in the headunit feeding the sub pre out.
I have no luck finding out this info from the sellers so mabye some people who have purchased can help me. I want to put one of these in my cls500 mercedes but I have subs in the trunk. I know even the crappiest jvc 1din headunit has subwoofer preamp outs with independent woofer controls but these devices make me wary because they only have one rca out as opposed to two and they say nothing of woofer control.
tonghai create 2nd gen has independent sub out,
personally though I do not see the big deal with using the rear outs for the sub & controlling the sub w/ a knob. It's nice to control sub through the HU itself I guess, but making on-the-fly adjustments is still easier w/ a physical volume knob. Nearly any amp used for sub control should come w/ a volume knob.
IS joying sub port preamplified ? Poses problem to seperae powered subwoofer/amp ?
Hisma said:
personally though I do not see the big deal with using the rear outs for the sub & controlling the sub w/ a knob. It's nice to control sub through the HU itself I guess, but making on-the-fly adjustments is still easier w/ a physical volume knob. Nearly any amp used for sub control should come w/ a volume knob.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know if the Joying units sub port is preamplifed ? Getting a sub with built in amp just in case but was wondering? It looks like on the back it has a dedicated sub out port. was going to get a y splitter and connect my powered subwoofer using the rca cables.
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was looking at this unit for a powered subwoofer
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KSCSW11/Kenwood-KSC-SW11.html?tp=114
It should be line level like the rest of those ports. 2v-4v IIRC depending on the settings in the factory menu. I think its 150hz fixed cut off on the sub port. The other outs should be full range if you want to take care of the low pass filtering at the amp. In any case you will need an amp for the sub. It only powers the 4 main channels. FWIW I'd double check your amp if it even needs a Y cable. A lot of them can internally change it from mono to stereo.
PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller
danknasty said:
I have no luck finding out this info from the sellers so mabye some people who have purchased can help me. I want to put one of these in my cls500 mercedes but I have subs in the trunk. I know even the crappiest jvc 1din headunit has subwoofer preamp outs with independent woofer controls but these devices make me wary because they only have one rca out as opposed to two and they say nothing of woofer control.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly it cant be done on the unit.
But you can buy this kit PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller from amazon 10USD, to control the Sub lvl.
there are some videos How to in utube:good:.
I have one of these chinese full android car stereos but cannot control the sub from the HU.
Can nobody recommend an app that will simply see that you have a sub out and then give you a level for it? or does this have to be done at firmware level?
I simply bought an active external crossover which I connected between the SUB output and the subwoofer amplifier. Works great and lets me have full control to tune the subwoofer performance. As far as I know, there's no way to control the SUB output directly from the head unit, though some has gone to the lenghts of modifying the hardware with soldering some wires and cutting some traces to make it work on the older 4.4.4 units.
Hilari0 said:
I simply bought an active external crossover which I connected between the SUB output and the subwoofer amplifier. Works great and lets me have full control to tune the subwoofer performance. As far as I know, there's no way to control the SUB output directly from the head unit, though some has gone to the lenghts of modifying the hardware with soldering some wires and cutting some traces to make it work on the older 4.4.4 units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok - great - this was basically what i was going to do....but i have one more major question - between 0 and 10, what is the level of sound currently going to my subwoofer? if it is already on 10 by default, then the control is no use to me because the problem i have is that the sub is currently plugged in i can hardly hear it at all...will this increase the level if i turn it up to 10 or just give me what i am already getting?
excuse me if i sound a bit of a novice here...
Well, you can change the level with a crossover. I think the level is equal between the FL/FR and RL/RR outputs if the internal head unit sound equalizer is set to center. On the crossover I had, I set the level to max, which I believe is 0dB (unchanged) unless you add boost on a separate dial, and that works great for me.
Hilari0 said:
Well, you can change the level with a crossover. I think the level is equal between the FL/FR and RL/RR outputs if the internal head unit sound equalizer is set to center. On the crossover I had, I set the level to max, which I believe is 0dB (unchanged) unless you add boost on a separate dial, and that works great for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so are you sayin that if i add a control knob and put it on max it is basically going to give me the same level as i already have going to my rear amp without the knob? i dont get the point then?
If you run a crossover at 0dB. you will not have any gain in sound level on the sub. The beauty of an active crossover though, is that it offers a boost option which enables you to increase the level as well. In my setup, I drive the 4 speakers with the internal amp in the head unit, then I connect the SUB output to a active crossover, and then I use the low pass output to drive the factory installed sub-amplifier for the subwoofer. In my setup I didn't need any boost, I mainly needed to set a low pass frequency since the subwoofer was playing full range and not just low frequencies, albeit still being loud.
If you have the proper sound coming from the subwoofer, meaning it already has a low pass crossover built in but has too low level, you can try a signal level booster such as PAC audio LD-10. If you still need a low pass crossover, you may search for an active crossover with a good level booster or similar.
ok, so this is the stereo i have
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CGA5DIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it has a sub out line - so i assume it is only sending max 120 frequency to my rear amp. As my sub already has an amp with a crossover built in i assume i dont need a crossover at the head unit end as well right?
The PAC level booster.....I assume it will need its own power source? otherwise how does it boost the sound?
Any active level booster will need power, usually 12V and a remote (usually blue antenna wire from head unit, some have a separate amp output, check your HU's wiring diagram). Any passive component without power supply can only dampen the signal, not amplify it.
The head unit you linked to is different from mine, I have a Joying JY-UL135N2 and there may be minor differences on how they function.
And yes, if your subwoofer amplifier already has a built in crossover, you won't need a separate active crossover. If the level is too low, the PAC LD-10 is what you need.
Hilari0 said:
Any active level booster will need power, usually 12V and a remote (usually blue antenna wire from head unit, some have a separate amp output, check your HU's wiring diagram). Any passive component without power supply can only dampen the signal, not amplify it.
The head unit you linked to is different from mine, I have a Joying JY-UL135N2 and there may be minor differences on how they function.
And yes, if your subwoofer amplifier already has a built in crossover, you won't need a separate active crossover. If the level is too low, the PAC LD-10 is what you need.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks again for your help.
So as i have just installed this stereo, i have the option of returning it and buying a different one. I have found the one (below) which actually has a subwoofer control built into the firmware (see picture 3 on the product). In your opinion would this sort my issue out? bearing in mind i already have an amp and sub at the back so just need a decnt line out with a way of increasing and decreasing the subwoofer level:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/k5c/Pump...F8&qid=1483121920&sr=8-1&keywords=pumpkin+dsp
Maybe, depends on the design of the lineout. If the one you already have installed has a poor design for the line out, giving a low level, then yes better head unit could solve it. But if it has the same design, meaning it gives something like 2V or so on the output, then it will be the same. As far as I know, none of these Chinese Android head units have high performance 5+V outputs like you find in good head units from Kenwood/Sony/Pioneer etc.
Hilari0 said:
Maybe, depends on the design of the lineout. If the one you already have installed has a poor design for the line out, giving a low level, then yes better head unit could solve it. But if it has the same design, meaning it gives something like 2V or so on the output, then it will be the same. As far as I know, none of these Chinese Android head units have high performance 5+V outputs like you find in good head units from Kenwood/Sony/Pioneer etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok - so it may be better to get the PAC booster anyway and leave my head unit the way it is...the problem with the quality brands is they dont run full android like these....and i cant be bothered with the mirroring features they have - this is not good enough for me - i like it to run its own apps.
I'm with you there, I'm extremely unimpressed by the bad efforts from the likes of Kenwood/Pioneer/Sony in making a good head unit with Android. Yes, they do have great hardware in terms of sound and sound processing, but terrible CPU and low res screens as well as low memory. And then they cost a lot.
That's why I went for a Joying unit, 2GB ram, a decent Intel CPU and 32GB internal storage as well as a good screen, all at a great price. To get all of this, I don't mind to work around some of the weaknesses found on these..
Hilari0 said:
I'm with you there, I'm extremely unimpressed by the bad efforts from the likes of Kenwood/Pioneer/Sony in making a good head unit with Android. Yes, they do have great hardware in terms of sound and sound processing, but terrible CPU and low res screens as well as low memory. And then they cost a lot.
That's why I went for a Joying unit, 2GB ram, a decent Intel CPU and 32GB internal storage as well as a good screen, all at a great price. To get all of this, I don't mind to work around some of the weaknesses found on these..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
remind me, do you have a sub? has it got its own amp? and what was your workaround for the low power line out to the sub?
I have a '05 Ford Expedition with a "Audiophile premium sound system", which has a factory installed subwoofer with its own amplifier. I didn't have an issue with low level, only the lack of a crossover which I solved by installing an active crossover.
Hi there,
I'm still in my internal debate of doing a tablet car install (like Galaxy Tab S2 8 inch) or getting an Android Headunit to avoid all the install struggles.
So I have been looking around on different forums for quite a while to find a REALLY working combo with an Android Head unit on Android 8.0 and a USB DAC. I would prefer an optical out DAC. Have you any positive experiences and suggestions of both models that would fit ?
I'm planning on getting a Sabre ES9010 based DAC or a Sabre ES9010K2M.
Anyone got it working with an head unit ?
By the way, I'm aware of the issues with the volume with the radio and bluetooth. I will be using a MiniDSP 6x8 with it in a MK5 golf.
i work with joying headunit + with sabre u2 dac.
the volume little loud even when i set it to one. ( i also add more step no change)
for bt call i connect a speaker to the internal amp of headunit, for me its better because my external sound processor add delay to the speakers. ( the speaker work on bt call and radio. )
if u have a physical volume is better, u can try Fain volume control v2 or Precise volume to get the volume more dynamic.
RoNeReR said:
i work with joying headunit + with sabre u2 dac.
the volume little loud even when i set it to one. ( i also add more step no change)
for bt call i connect a speaker to the internal amp of headunit, for me its better because my external sound processor add delay to the speakers. ( the speaker work on bt call and radio. )
if u have a physical volume is better, u can try Fain volume control v2 or Precise volume to get the volume more dynamic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need an Intel based joying unit. They are still being sold. Works!
Thanks for your answers. So I guess any Sabre DAC world work ! Good news.
RoNeReR said:
i work with joying headunit + with sabre u2 dac.
the volume little loud even when i set it to one. ( i also add more step no change)
for bt call i connect a speaker to the internal amp of headunit, for me its better because my external sound processor add delay to the speakers. ( the speaker work on bt call and radio. )
if u have a physical volume is better, u can try Fain volume control v2 or Precise volume to get the volume more dynamic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess I can connect both RCA out from HU to DSP swell as the Optical out. It should be quite easy to switch from one input to another and remove the delay compensation probably.
What specific model are you using from joying ?
gtxaspec said:
You need an Intel based joying unit. They are still being sold. Works!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What about other models like PX5 that contains 4GB RAM and such ? Sabre DAC are not supposed to work on ARM as well ?
Hypnox99 said:
Thanks for your answers. So I guess any Sabre DAC world work ! Good news.
I guess I can connect both RCA out from HU to DSP swell as the Optical out. It should be quite easy to switch from one input to another and remove the delay compensation probably.
What specific model are you using from joying ?
What about other models like PX5 that contains 4GB RAM and such ? Sabre DAC are not supposed to work on ARM as well ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is the software on the head unit, the 4gb models are made by a different vendor. The PX 2gb units are made by the same vendor as the Intel, so we know the USB devices work well.
gtxaspec said:
The problem is the software on the head unit, the 4gb models are made by a different vendor. The PX 2gb units are made by the same vendor as the Intel, so we know the USB devices work well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for answering me. So alright, I see. But I guess the Intel units present the same following problems like : 44.1khz/16 bit playback max, no knob volume control and some applications playing only through the HU audio chip?
Because if the 44.1khz/16 bit problem is fixable as well as all of the applications can play though the USB Dac (not mentioning radio or bt audio since I don't care of thoses so much) the Android HU will get interesting...
On another note, do theses head unit run smooth for quite while and will get Android updates? I didn't see any of the Intel based shipped with Android 8.
Still in my internal debate of tablet dash install vs Android HU vs Western brands Android Auto capable stereo...
So again thanks a lot
QUOTE-Because if the 44.1khz/16 bit problem is fixable as well as all of the applications can play though the USB Dac (not mentioning radio or bt audio since I don't care of thoses so much) the Android HU will get interesting...
On another note, do theses head unit run smooth for quite while and will get Android updates? I didn't see any of the Intel based shipped with Android 8.
--ENDQUOTE
Firstly I personally don't regard 44khz and 16bit audio as a "problem". It is more than adequate for reproduction in a vehicle with all the other attendant noise sources, especially with a window or sunroof open.
Head unit manufacturers are way way behind other Android tablet and 'phone manufacturers by the order of about 2 years. They are still selling and promoting Kit Kat head units. You probably won't see any Android 8 units for another couple of years, if you are very lucky you may find a Nougat unit to suit your vehicle.
Good hunting, Tony.
vidtek said:
QUOTE-Because if the 44.1khz/16 bit problem is fixable as well as all of the applications can play though the USB Dac (not mentioning radio or bt audio since I don't care of thoses so much) the Android HU will get interesting...
On another note, do theses head unit run smooth for quite while and will get Android updates? I didn't see any of the Intel based shipped with Android 8.
--ENDQUOTE
Firstly I personally don't regard 44khz and 16bit audio as a "problem". It is more than adequate for reproduction in a vehicle with all the other attendant noise sources, especially with a window or sunroof open.
Head unit manufacturers are way way behind other Android tablet and 'phone manufacturers by the order of about 2 years. They are still selling and promoting Kit Kat head units. You probably won't see any Android 8 units for another couple of years, if you are very lucky you may find a Nougat unit to suit your vehicle.
Good hunting, Tony.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok then, the Android version does not matters that much. Seems like Android 6 is OK. Thanks.
I have been looking around and found that some people can get the HDMI out from a PX3 7.1 HU to a box that will extract the audio and feed it as optical to a DSP. Is this advisable ? I guess the volume knob will work with it and after all it will be "as good" as a USB DAC out. I understood that the problem are the converters before the RCA out...
On a side note I was thinking about Joying Intel Sofia for vw golf, I have found some Android 6 units, but can't seem to find one with HDMI out. Only Xtrons PX3 seem to have HDMI out for the units made specifically for the vw golf.
So if I understand well, when I'm using a USB DAC, only bluetooth audio and radio will go through the RCA out ? Anything else will go through the DAC ? If using on a Sofia Intel.
I have also been looking at Android Audio to USB, something like the MiniDSP USB Streamer, any thoughts ?
Many many questions again
Hypnox99 said:
Ok then, the Android version does not matters that much. Seems like Android 6 is OK. Thanks.
I have been looking around and found that some people can get the HDMI out from a PX3 7.1 HU to a box that will extract the audio and feed it as optical to a DSP. Is this advisable ? I guess the volume knob will work with it and after all it will be "as good" as a USB DAC out. I understood that the problem are the converters before the RCA out...
On a side note I was thinking about Joying Intel Sofia for vw golf, I have found some Android 6 units, but can't seem to find one with HDMI out. Only Xtrons PX3 seem to have HDMI out for the units made specifically for the vw golf.
So if I understand well, when I'm using a USB DAC, only bluetooth audio and radio will go through the RCA out ? Anything else will go through the DAC ? If using on a Sofia Intel.
I have also been looking at Android Audio to USB, something like the MiniDSP USB Streamer, any thoughts ?
Many many questions again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hypnox-
I installed a Joying in mine, a VW EOS, and since doing the Heatsink/fan modification, I have been quite satisfied with it's performance. They supply all the looms and can-bus interface to suit your model car and it is the easiest plug and play install imaginable, takes 5 minutes.
I was in the same position as you, although not as fixated on the sound fidelity I was choosing between a tablet and head unit solution. I am VERY glad I chose the head unit, the finished install looks like an OEM unit and performs with very few hiccups. See the piccies of mine below. The unit I chose was a UK-JY-VM130N2D, it has a digital amplifier and 2 MicroSD card slots on the front (I have used them with up to 128gb MicroSD cards) and most importantly for me a physical volume knob.
Cheers Tony.
vidtek said:
Hypnox-
I installed a Joying in mine, a VW EOS, and since doing the Heatsink/fan modification, I have been quite satisfied with it's performance. They supply all the looms and can-bus interface to suit your model car and it is the easiest plug and play install imaginable, takes 5 minutes.
I was in the same position as you, although not as fixated on the sound fidelity I was choosing between a tablet and head unit solution. I am VERY glad I chose the head unit, the finished install looks like an OEM unit and performs with very few hiccups. See the piccies of mine below. The unit I chose was a UK-JY-VM130N2D, it has a digital amplifier and 2 MicroSD card slots on the front (I have used them with up to 128gb MicroSD cards) and most importantly for me a physical volume knob.
Cheers Tony.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I forgot to post a picture of the finished job, see below. Pic 1 is original MFD2 VW unit, pic 2 the Joying.
Tony
This is some nice unit there Thank you for your input ! By the way this is exactly the Sofia Intel based unit I have my eyes on. I will certainly make the same mod as you if I pull the trigger on this one and the integration into the dash is very sexy
I'm still trying to figure out the HDMI out audio extraction if possible on PX3 Xtrons unit... I might send Xtrons a mail, but not sure if they will reply. Also trying to know if spotify can use USB dac for audio out... Damn, finding the "somewhat" good unit is not easy task.
Hypnox99 said:
This is some nice unit there Thank you for your input ! By the way this is exactly the Sofia Intel based unit I have my eyes on. I will certainly make the same mod as you if I pull the trigger on this one and the integration into the dash is very sexy
I'm still trying to figure out the HDMI out audio extraction if possible on PX3 Xtrons unit... I might send Xtrons a mail, but not sure if they will reply. Also trying to know if spotify can use USB dac for audio out... Damn, finding the "somewhat" good unit is not easy task.
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Click to collapse
Hypnox- You seem to be hypnotised (pun intended) by sound quality. I am a video/ audio engineer with 50 years experience. I have installed hundreds of home theatre hif-fi and casino/night club PA systems.
As we age, our hearing deteriorates rapidly from the age of 12 onwards. In today's world with attendant noise pollution, headphone use, aircraft and motor noise and concert visits, our hearing is far worse than previous generations at an earlier age. Most people over 30 will have difficulty hearing any signal over 12,000khz.
There is a hearing testing app in the google play store, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobile.eaudiologia&hl=en using headphone/earbuds why don't you check your own hearing before embarking on a quest for excellent sound in your equipment, you could well save yourself a bundle of dosh and a heap of time!
As we age, the viscocity of the fluid in our ears gets thicker, which is why older people hate the boom boom of bass notes youngsters love so much, it literally resounds inside our heads and is painful. Older folks turn up the treble/high equaliser settings in a vain attempt to hear those high notes we once could hear. This in turn is painful to young people who cannot stand high levels of higher frequencies, because they can actually hear them!
When you try to put a high-fidelity sound system into a car environment, you are basically pushing sh*t uphill. As soon as you open a window, all the careful measurements an audio installer makes literally goes out of the window.
My advice, forget hifi in a car, it's is a nonsense. If you must have hifi in your car, use headphones and let someone else do the driving.
Sorry for the lecture, you don't want to get me started on the monster cable and oxygen-free cable rip-offs
Cheers Tony.
vidtek said:
Hypnox- You seem to be hypnotised (pun intended) by sound quality. I am a video/ audio engineer with 50 years experience. I have installed hundreds of home theatre hif-fi and casino/night club PA systems.
As we age, our hearing deteriorates rapidly from the age of 12 onwards. In today's world with attendant noise pollution, headphone use, aircraft and motor noise and concert visits, our hearing is far worse than previous generations at an earlier age. Most people over 30 will have difficulty hearing any signal over 12,000khz.
There is a hearing testing app in the google play store, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobile.eaudiologia&hl=en using headphone/earbuds why don't you check your own hearing before embarking on a quest for excellent sound in your equipment, you could well save yourself a bundle of dosh and a heap of time!
As we age, the viscocity of the fluid in our ears gets thicker, which is why older people hate the boom boom of bass notes youngsters love so much, it literally resounds inside our heads and is painful. Older folks turn up the treble/high equaliser settings in a vain attempt to hear those high notes we once could hear. This in turn is painful to young people who cannot stand high levels of higher frequencies, because they can actually hear them!
When you try to put a high-fidelity sound system into a car environment, you are basically pushing sh*t uphill. As soon as you open a window, all the careful measurements an audio installer makes literally goes out of the window.
My advice, forget hifi in a car, it's is a nonsense. If you must have hifi in your car, use headphones and let someone else do the driving.
Sorry for the lecture, you don't want to get me started on the monster cable and oxygen-free cable rip-offs
Cheers Tony.
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Click to collapse
I understand your point of view, I certainly don't have the same Audio background as you.
However I'm 28 and a music producer and I can certainly tell the difference between pairs of monitoring speaker. Through the years (still a lot to learn though) I have developed my hear in mixing sessions. And I have a passion for listening to music as well.
I have replaced the stock HU of my car with a 100$ Sony last year and I can tell straight away the difference in sound quality. I also made an audio car install on another car and the difference between the stock system is stunning.
Here, I just want to have a decent audio quality, I know that in car audio there is some serious diminishing return when you build your system.
If you take a look on XDA and like diymobileaudio, you will find hundreds of threads stating that the audio quality is poor even in a car...
You know, If for 50$ I can get a DAC working pretty well with it and that it won't crush the audio quality, I'm all for it
Hypnox99 said:
I understand your point of view, I certainly don't have the same Audio background as you.
However I'm 28 and a music producer and I can certainly tell the difference between pairs of monitoring speaker. Through the years (still a lot to learn though) I have developed my hear in mixing sessions. And I have a passion for listening to music as well.
I have replaced the stock HU of my car with a 100$ Sony last year and I can tell straight away the difference in sound quality. I also made an audio car install on another car and the difference between the stock system is stunning.
Here, I just want to have a decent audio quality, I know that in car audio there is some serious diminishing return when you build your system.
If you take a look on XDA and like diymobileaudio, you will find hundreds of threads stating that the audio quality is poor even in a car...
You know, If for 50$ I can get a DAC working pretty well with it and that it won't crush the audio quality, I'm all for it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hypnox- OK at 28 your hearing will be far superior to mine-especially as in my mis-spent youth I was in a rock band before health and safety went bananas, we always used the same stage layout so my right ear is shall we say, less than perfect?
I just hate to see people spending money on a system which as you say is subject to the law of diminishing returns when they could be spending it on other leisure pursuits, or food and housing.....
As long as you get a system that floats your boat and you personally are satisfied, who can gainsay that?
Good luck to you, Tony.
Bump. Would love to get an update on the status of that quest of knowledge.
Please can someone help? I really want (as many of you) to use an external DAC (standard PCM2704) with and android HU. It works with my Android 5.1 Tablet but I am really looking for a compatible HU.
Do you have a model that works with USB DAC? I want a recent one available to buy on market.
Thanks
Lets make this Thread a nice help for everyone
So here is my DAC setup and I can say that the sound is so much better. And with an external eq, it is easy to have access to the Bluetooth and the other things you have inside you Head Units until we find a way to send all the signal to the DAC !!!
First of all,
My head Unit is a: XTRONS TE706PL
To go the DAC way, I brought a preamp CLARION EQS755 and an AudioQuest DRAGONFLY RED
The only problem was that I was getting Pops and bizarre sound out of the signal chain.
I get a AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub and I now connect the DAC and the POPS are almost gone now ( it was a current problem i guess ) Only some bizarre sound comes now and then Flash drive is loading. ( only in DAC MODE )
Upgrade for the future
AUDIOQUEST JITTERBUG will change for the IFI ISILENCER
CHORD MOJO or something in that caliber as an EXTERNAL DAC. ( in about 5 month ) as i need some money
I did a some video to show you the difference in quality and the pops I am talking about
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LEBDARV6GRV_wF3pInB1fgjwm4Aw8Gbf
UPDATED
Just receive my IFI ISILENCER , I can say that the sound is about 1 to 4 % better with it. I test it in my car and in my house. It kinda makes a difference but you need to really focus to hear it.
I still have that computer distortion coming from both my HEAD UNIT and my main computer. ( this have to be regularize before the current goes to the head unit I guess )
have a good day.
Have a good day everyone !
Did anyone figure out a way to get the android volum control to turn up and down the usb audio output. ??
After months of research I stumbled upon a blaupunkt head unit that runs android 4.4.4.
It seems to be a newer release thought because it looks like eonons unit! It has a 10.1” screen and a real EQ DSP module. The rca preouts are like a real name brand head unit with 3 pairs. Front,rear,sub! (China units has a mono sub out).
Heres the audio detail on it!
It is a new face of innovation in music entertainment with 10.1"capacitive display and combines high-quality tuner performance, world online and off-line navigation, Audiophile grade sound quality, a huge variety of different entertainment features and the connection of all types of portable media including smartphones.
Equalizer
31-band Parametric Equalizer
Subwoofer Switchable
Variable Subwoofer Gain (24 Steps)
Variable Low-Pass Filter (/80 / 120 / 160 Hz)
Preset Equalizer
Balance / Fader
Switch-On Volume (Last Volume, Programmable)
Sound tuning via PC: 15-band parametric EQ per input channel / 31-band EQ for each of 8 out channels
. It seems like if you want to tune the dsp per speaker, it requires a PC connected to the head unit. Which isnt a big deal.
I wonder if we can get our hands on it and disect it and make replicas!!!
Heres the website:
https://www.blaupunkt.com/ase/nc/pr...inment/2-din-car-radio/products/single/15825/
https://chonoithatoto.vn/cua-hang/dau-man-hinh-dvd-o-to-blaupunkt-las-vegas-960dsp-10-1-inch/
They make a “las vegas 950 dsp and a 960 dsp”
It seems to me like the Bluetooth module is outdated at 2.0 tho.
Id like to know where i can buy one!
Let me know what u think.
Theres also the owners manual you can download and look at on their website!
https://youtu.be/PbBwDwEvdrw
Hi
I've been looking at getting an android unit to replace the OEM stereo/sat nav in my 2012 Passat. I want to move to get Spotify and Google maps (I'd like to plug a SIM into the unit for internet rather than link to my mobile).
The audio on the OEM is great so I'm worried about moving to something with much worse quality.
All the posts I've read here suggest that all the Chinese units have very bad quality audio? I've been looking at units with the TDA7851L chip.
Is there anything out there now that won't disappoint me? I don't want to go down the road of needing a separate amp.
If not I think I'm stuck with the OEM until I buy a new car!
Thanks in advance for any useful advice!
Does your car have a factory premium audio system? I've seen a few threads about getting Chinese HU to use the factory amp and there are after market adapters available too. Here's a couple threads that mention it. The best advice is to question the seller about compatibility of the HU with the car's system before you buy and talk to many sellers.
If your current OEM radio only has a built in amp then you should probably look for a HU with DSP. The poor sound of some units had a lot to do with the fake EQ they used and the sound got fixed with using Viper4Android. The DSP EQ actually works and saves you the trouble of rooting the HU and installing a custom ROM.
One important consideration you get what you pay for. There are Allwinner and Mediatek HU that sell for cheap and they are cheap so expect the sound quality to be the same.
Amps are pretty cheap. I wouldn't worry about it.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
My experience with a few of chinese HUs is the sound quality is very good. You will find the specs of the off the shelf e.g. TI sound chips are very good Hi Fi. The chinese devs usually use the standard circuits of the chip manufacturers reference design-right down to the same component values.
One problem they sometimes have, is matching these blocks. One HU I had had issue with: volume from radio was full blast at just over min setting of volume control i.e could not reduce volume level to a low enough-full or off! My fix was soldering in resistors in-line at radio audio output ahead of the internal amp. to match levels. Smooth control resulted. Any external fix would have resulted in distorted audio. Max volume, all inputs, should occur at 75-90% of volume setting. This gives full range and a small allowance for weaker than normal signals.
Thanks for the comments. I don't have a separate amp at present and I don't want to put a separate one in, not to do with price, more about keeping things simple. Also I don't want to get involved with soldering etc, I just want 'plug and play'.
Sounds like the HUs with DSP are now pretty good - all the Chinese one's seem to use the same chips, so now need to choose a brand!