Pixel 3a camera after update to Android 10 - Google Pixel 3a Guides, News, & Discussion

Here are my first impressions after the update to Android 10:
White balance presets have been removed for photos and videos. That's a stupid decision and I hope that they will add a color temperature slider in auto mode in the future. https://support.google.com/pixelphone/thread/16921343?hl=en
Machine learning white balance can't be turned off in Night Sight mode anymore. Previously you could turn off machine learning white balance and use the default white balance, if you used a white balance preset before using Night Sight.
Now HDR+ enhanced has the "super resolution" zoom algorithm. Previously this wasn't the case. Now the HDR+ enhanced zoom is about as good as the Night Sight zoom (in my opinion it's even better because Night Sight chooses too long exposures and can lead to slightly blurry photos)
HDR+ dng files have been fixed. Previously they were extremely desaturated. Though the update doesn't fix the dng files that were saved before the update. Furthermore the Lightroom mobile camera app still produces desaturated dng files.
When you use the Pixel 3a on a tripod in very bad light conditions, then it will combine thirteen 4s exposures (astro mode). When you zoom, it will combine fifteen 4s exposures. After one 4s exposure, it is possible to stop additional exposures.
Now the Pixel 3a has face detection autofocus, but I am not sure whether it works accurately.
Now the Pixel 3a has the Top Shot feature, but it seems to be useless as the image quality is terrible.
Bug: When you use exposure compensation in low-light conditions, the viewfinder can start to flicker. When you use AF lock, then this bug doesn't occur. You can use the exposure compensation after using the AF lock feature.
Bug: When you hold the phone too steady in Night Sight mode, the astro mode can turn on even though you don't use a tripod. This will lead to very blurry results. If the light conditions are not very bad and the astro mode doesn't turn on, it is still possible that Night Sight chooses 1.0s per frame. Before the update the maximum handheld exposure time per frame was approximately 0.85s in my case, often 0.5s.
Bug: This is a bug that already existed before the update. It hasn't been fixed: When you zoom or when you use Night Sight on a tripod (not astro mode), then several dead pixels can be visible. I have the impression that the astro mode handles the dead pixels better. https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/im...x=0.05119343664946224&y=0.0066202024429564575
Google Photos bug: Jpgs in the Photoshop Express folder do not look extremely sharp at pixel level in Google Photos. When I move them to a different folder, then they look sharper.

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Camera Patch

Has anyone managed to find a patch for the Wizard camera yet? The lighting on this camera sucks so bad. If the camera let more light in around dark places it would probably be an ok camera as the quality in light places looks pretty good.
Anybody got any news for me on this yet? Is pointless having the cam if it cant b fixed
I can tell you that in the camera > menu > adjust you can tweak all the settings (gamma, brightness, contrast) to your own preferences
does that help?
digital cameras (CCDs) are all poor and grainy in low light - it's pretty standard.
This camera is excellent compared to my old Treo 600!
Anyone knows if is possible to get pictures portrait orientated (at least when grabin' in add-to-contacts mode)? Because rotating each one is ***.
Here's the Camera-patch in T-mobile Ext-Rom.Don't know whether if it's useful for you...I didn't notice any difference.... :?
I currently have camera app Version 3.00 (Build 21246)
I see that the files this patch replaces are:
HTCcamera.dll
- my size: 17408
- patch size: 6560
OV9650.dll
- my size: 46080
- patch size: 38304
But I have no idea how to get the version of the camera app after this patch ( Edit: before installing it, that is ). The DLLs don't have any regular dll versioning information, and couldn't spot anything with a hex viewer.
I'll try and catch some shots with my current version and the patched version, of the same scene with varying levels of light, and see what the difference turns out being. Need to figure out how to get my Wizard stable on something first to get shots of said same scene
Replaced the camera - could spot no interface changes, About screen still shows the same version. The files are definitely replaced on the device, though - file sizes match the patch file's.
Results: nada. I *might* say that it may remove a bit of the yellow/green overcast in a brither picture. However, there was so much difference even inbetween 3 consecutive shots (Ambience set to Incandescent, so it's not an auto-whitebalance issue) that I can't really tell whether that was a fluke (as all the darker images have the same yellow/green overcast) or not.
Overall, the camera is pretty poor. There's a lot of noise, the shutter duration is fairly long (And even longer with Ambience set to 'night', which does boost values a good bit - to the point of showing hot pixels), and even in full bright light indoors, it's just too 'muddy'. It's fine for shooting the occasional picture, and decent for outdoor pictures (in sunlight) - but it's not about to replace any dedicated camera you may have. Compared to e.g. a S/E w800i, you'd think they ripped the camera component off of a 1995 $20 webcam.
Attached is a pretty small picture of the results - the full size picture, and original data, are available until I get tired of keeping them around, if anybody's really interested.
Top row is pre-patch, bottom row is post-patch. Left = full bright, Middle = Dark as the dimmer light would get, Right = Light off, Ambience set to Night.
Edit: All images in the attached picture are averages of 3 consecutive shots, to try and eliminate any inter-shot discrepancies. As a result, the noise levels are lower than in an individual shot, but the pictures a bit blurrier (couldn't keep the device 100% steady on the make-shift tripod). The images are indicatory for lighting response levels only.

Flash darkens photos?

Anyone else observing that when they take a pic with the flash on in "medium" light conditions, the photo comes out actually darker than if the flash wasn't even used?
I swear the timing of the flash is bad on my S5. When I tap the button to shoot the photo, the flash turns on and the image on the screen looks bright and good. But then I think the photo is actually taken a split second later after the flash has turned off, and the photo that gets taken is dark as hell. I think I've tried all the combination of settings in the default S5 camera app, and nothing helps.
Brent212 said:
Anyone else observing that when they take a pic with the flash on in "medium" light conditions, the photo comes out actually darker than if the flash wasn't even used?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't seen this with my S5. Unfortunately you didn't elaborate on your camera settings, camera version or other crucial details.
At a guess, and it is only speculation since we don't have your details, you are expecting the flash to act like a fill flash. When the auto mode (which is probably what you are using) probably uses the flash in a conventional manner i.e. a fixed shutter speed (or limited shutter speed range). There are good reasons for that, but the net effect if the subject is outside of the flash range is that little of the flash is reflected back and the (presumably) higher shutter speed lets less total light in resulting in a darker picture.
You can test that thesis by taking some pictures of a subject that is very close to the camera. If the problem goes away with close subjects that implies that the problem is an artifact of using flash for a subject that is too distant for the flash to work with. No flash can work at an unlimited distance which is why people using a flash in a stadium when they are 75 meters from a subject is silly. In this case, flash mode simply isn't appropriate to the situation you are using it in and you'd be farther ahead to use a slower shutter speed, without flash.
It's highly unlikely that a bug would see the shutter opening after the flash.
.
It happens with literally *every* combination of the settings in the camera app (with flash set to "on"). Auto mode, beauty face mode... actually, are there any other modes that I'd use to take a picture of something 3 feet away in a darkish room? I have panorama, "shot & more", virtual tour... those wouldn't be right, correct? So both beauty face and auto, with all the combination of settings... hdr on/off, stabilization on/off, iso at auto and all four "manual" options, all three metering modes... nothing makes a difference.
The problem is the same all the times -- it's not just that the non "subject" areas are dark -- the whole image is dark, just like if you turned off the light in a room and snapped a pic at the moment when the light was still on at 50% brightness as it's turning off. It's super annoying just because of how damn good the image looks on the screen when the photo is being taken... it even seems to "snap" the shot at the right time... the shutter sound goes off and the little border animation happens when the pic is nice and bright. Then I open the actual image and it's garbage.
I was hoping someone might know of some setting in a config file somewhere for a delay between when the flash is triggered and when the camera attempts to capture the image, and that maybe mine got changed somehow to a larger than optimal value.
My wife has an s5, I'll have to test with hers and see if it suffers from the same problem.
Long story short: the camera is using a fast exposure time to keep the subject from being "blown out", i.e. overexposed, when the flash is used. That means that the foreground is going to be sharper but anything in the background will be lost in darkness if the ambient lighting is low. When you leave the flash off, the camera will use a longer exposure time (or shutter speed, if you will) to allow enough light, which also lets more of the background be seen in the picture.
Another thing to consider is that if your screen is set for auto brightness control, you will not have the same brightness when viewing the gallery pictures that you will when looking at the camera view. The camera view is full brightness at all times, but if you're viewing the pictures that you took in the gallery, screen brightness will drop down according to ambient lighting. Photos definitely look dark if you're looking at the gallery by lamp light.
Marlin29 said:
Long story short: the camera is using a fast exposure time to keep the subject from being "blown out", i.e. overexposed, when the flash is used. That means that the foreground is going to be sharper but anything in the background will be lost in darkness if the ambient lighting is low. When you leave the flash off, the camera will use a longer exposure time (or shutter speed, if you will) to allow enough light, which also lets more of the background be seen in the picture.
Another thing to consider is that if your screen is set for auto brightness control, you will not have the same brightness when viewing the gallery pictures that you will when looking at the camera view. The camera view is full brightness at all times, but if you're viewing the pictures that you took in the gallery, screen brightness will drop down according to ambient lighting. Photos definitely look dark if you're looking at the gallery by lamp light.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's interesting stuff, but doesn't really apply to the problem I described (at least the first part... the screen brightness setting stuff is potentially related, but isn't in my case). The exposure time is fine, it's just **when** the exposure starts that is the problem... a little too late, IMO. Really wish there was a way to adjust when it takes the photo in relation to when the flash is fired.
The foreground objects aren't lit up at all. No difference between foreground and background. Sometimes, I'm taking a picture of a t-shirt laying on a flat surface from 2 feet away. Without a flash it looks pretty good, but it's a little dark so I decide to try the flash to see if it'll lighten it up a bit. Instead, it makes it look like I turned out half the lights in the room.... way darker than no flash.
Same here, three friends of mine too.
I'm having the same problem s5 neo
I just figured out how to correct the pics from coming out dark. Go into camera-settings-exposure value-slide to the right to 2.5 or more.My pics come out fine now. Indoor light normal daylight.( with flash off.) I will know more in other settings (places ,situations )if it needs to be tweaked again.
no problems here
my settings are AUTO MODE
flash AUTO
no effets at all
and still i get good shots in night
Power/current draw issue?
Mine was doing this, and I noticed the first flash (ranging) was fine, but the second flash (to illuminate the image when taken) was much weaker. Whilst plugged into charge, repeated low light experiment, and the low light flash illuminated image was fine!! Maybe battery on its way out?

Does anyone else have banding in their Edge photos on manual?

I was playing around with FV-5 (camera app) and pushing the camera to 3200 ISO to see what kind of quality would result, and noticed that I was getting banding on the screen. I switched back to the Samsung camera app, in manual mode, and noticed (for the first time) banding there as well. I took a couple of pictures of my nondescript carpet to see if it was a screen thing or a photo thing: http://imgur.com/a/69mml
Now I'm seeing it all the time. I've used manual mode before, but never run into this. I'm having a hard time believing that FV-5 broke my camera, but I can't remember having this issue - even in manual mode - with my camera before this. Can anyone else run their camera in manual mode, set ISO to 800, and the shutter so that the EV is in the -1 to -2 range and report back? I'd hate to have to take the phone back and trade it in, but this is just unacceptable performance.

Best manual camera settings

hey guys, I wanna know what is the best manual settings you use with this phone
because in superior auto my photos become blury and not sharp
Depends on the circumstances, that's what manual means. Is what you want to capture bight? Use low ISO and fast shutter speed. Is it dark? Use high iso, slow shutter speed and a steady hand. The Scenes are basically Shutterspeed/Iso/Whitebalance presets adapted to a specific situation.
However, Superior auto photos should not be blurry. Either the phone or the picture are moving to much, or your phone has a defect.

Question Long exposure shots in nothing phone 1

Heii...is there any way to take long exposure shots like iphone (motion photo to long exposure) pixel has (motion mode on gcam in 6 and 6 pro)
Is there any method to take such photo .
Yes !
Go camera -professional mode-use tripod and set timer 3 set iso and shutter 4-8 sec
No ,I mean software trick.
To take such in light sorrodings too,as iphones live photo converted to long exposure and pixel motion mode also in same way.is there any such way

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