I have been having a serious issue with my head unit ever since I got it. Well, actually, not me, but everyone who I talk to on my phone with it over bluetooth, in particular when my DVR is recording the dashcam. When the built-in DVR is recording the dashcam, it keeps making a loud buzz sound every 5 seconds to the receiving end of the call. That is, I don't hear it, but anyone I'm talking to on the other end of the call does. It is very loud and irritating, to such a degree that I have to turn off the DVR every time I'm in a call. Obviously, this shouldn't happen. Additionally, I find the same thing happens when making a call with Skype installed on the radio, which wouldn't be using bluetooth at that point, so it seems somehow either the dashcam itself (it is not the DVR software, I tried another software that did the same thing) or a hardware issue is creating noise on the line-in or mic in the sound system that goes out to the other end of the call. I've tried support from the "manufacturer", but they aren't much use and I don't intend to send the unit back to China and wait to get it back for 4 or 5 months. I suspect it isn't likely to be the dashcam, so for some reason there seems to be feedback on the USB line to the sound module.
So, I'd appreciate any ideas here. I've also tried numerous other DVR apps, but it seems that pretty much none of them function correctly with the USB dashcam that came with the radio. I don't know if it's an issue with the specific camera or that it's a USB interface for the camera. So, I'd appreciate any experience anyone can offer to resolve this.
Other than these issues, I've got it working the way I want. I installed a cooling fan on the PX5 CPU. I need to put a capacitor in parallel with it still as I think it's causing the LCD to flicker slightly. It came with Android 8, so I installed Android 9 on it. Upgraded the MCU. I also replaced the plain WIFI antenna wire with a plugin port so I can connect a better wifi antenna. I found an app that allows me to force a normal reboot instead of the pseudo-reboot it does with the power button because Android sometimes needs an actual real reboot.
There are some really annoying quirks about the radio too that if anyone knows how to change I'd be very grateful. For one, the Accessibility Services keep getting disabled when the radio is shutdown with the car. It seems to be a memory function built into the device as it doesn't happen with a real normal reboot. Also, the wifi sometimes gets shut off, I assume for the same reason. And the lack of security really really bugs me.
That's not an issue it's a feature I guess they didn't want to dedicate a PCB layer to route analog signals I even wonder if they have a dedicated layer for power. Anyway the problem is they run analog lines next to/under digital lines and no ground plane to isolate the 2. There is a mic mod thread that addresses those issues if you're interested.
Maybe just installing an external mic would be sufficient if your HU already has a connector for it. As for your other issue, check the factory settings menu there should be a setting to restore the unit to previous state on reboot. Sorry I can't remember the exact name of it.
nic2k said:
That's not an issue it's a feature I guess they didn't want to dedicate a PCB layer to route analog signals I even wonder if they have a dedicated layer for power. Anyway the problem is they run analog lines next to/under digital lines and no ground plane to isolate the 2. There is a mic mod thread that addresses those issues if you're interested.
Maybe just installing an external mic would be sufficient if your HU already has a connector for it. As for your other issue, check the factory settings menu there should be a setting to restore the unit to previous state on reboot. Sorry I can't remember the exact name of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an external mic. It doesn't help. Thanks for pointing me in the direction of the mic mod. It's probably what I've been looking for. As for the factory settings, I don't seem to have an option to restore the unit previous state in my factory settings.
Related
These systems are well known for their mic troubles and I have taken this up with the manufacturer. There is a post that I have seen somewhere in this forum that details a hardware fix. From what I have gathered, anyone brave enough to attempt and has accomplished this fix has not reported any issues; great for the electricians out there.
I do work in the computer industry, but identifying electrical components and soldering is not something I am too confident with. The manufacturer did however, send me an updated update.img file in response to my mic issues. I've installed this and it made some improvement, but nothing so significant that I have actually started using the mic. It also has a new wallpaper and noticed that the default apps have been updated, but not sure how?
Anyway, I've just had a bright idea! I've tried improving the mic by using various bluetooth mics, various external mics that plugin into the mic jack, using the internal mic and manufacturer software update. All make very little difference, but has anyone actually tried using a USB mic?
I don't have one to hand and don't really want to buy one if this doesn't solve the issue. Would drivers/android recognising the usb device be an issue? Hoping someone has had a go at trying this out or can try it out if thay have a usb mic?
Shame no one replied on this one. Did you end up trying a USB mic solution and did it work out for you?
Yeah... Haven't tried it yet as don't want to buy one if it doesn't work. Your reply to this thread would have bumped it back to the top so may still get a response Im hoping
According to this link http://liliputing.com/2012/09/using-skype-on-an-mk802-android-4-0-mini-pc.html, a microsoft lifecam vx-700 with built-in microphone was found to be working on some android devices. The question is whether our firmware would work too. And whether there would be a way to simply disable the built-in input and only route the external usb sound in. It all feels like its probably too much to ask....
OK so I tried a cheap usb webcam with built in microphone to see if it would make a difference. The webcam seems to be working fine for video, was instantly recognized by android and showed video, but sound is still the horrible mess coming from the internal mic. I doubt that a dedicated USB mic would be any different.
Thanks for checking... you saved me some time at least.
Could it be when using an internal mic + external at the same time that can cause this kind of trouble? That is what it seems when i read around forums.
have a look at this, maybe it helps:
http://www.autopumpkin.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=171&start=90
I simply cut the internal red wire to mic and installed external mic again and the problems have disappeared. I have been told there is a slight echo but that may be fixed by changing the BT firmware from default.
I think the mic location on the HU is excellent and we don't really need to route an external mic somewhere else. How about just trying to desoldier the old one and try to locate a high quality one and soldier a new one ?
Fortunately I am lucky and my internal mic works great.
raptor18 said:
I think the mic location on the HU is excellent and we don't really need to route an external mic somewhere else. How about just trying to desoldier the old one and try to locate a high quality one and soldier a new one ?
Fortunately I am lucky and my internal mic works great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lucky you, though to be fair without an external mic my internal worked, just not very well. I have read somewhere that soldering to the internal connections had issues but not sure why, it cant hurt to try can it?
roscored1000 said:
Lucky you, though to be fair without an external mic my internal worked, just not very well. I have read somewhere that soldering to the internal connections had issues but not sure why, it cant hurt to try can it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Shouldn't be a tough solder job.
Just make sure to use a solder sucker to remove old mic and you should be fine.
Guys,
I have the same problem with my android car navigation system.
I have a Note 4 and an android car navigation system in my car (with built in wifi and Bluetooth (BT)). The microphone of the car navigation system has a very low quality, it is almost not working/usable. I would like to pair my phone to the car system in BT but would like to disable the built- in microphone of the android car system and use the note 4's microphone by default and hear the sound of the person who is talking to me on the car speakers.
Is this possible? How? Do I need to use third party apps ?
Many thanks in advance
So frustrating... Anyone have a fix yet?
Android head unit mic barely picking up.
Why have they not fixed this issue?
So frustrating. Got everything all hooked up and straightened out except the daggum mic. I just bought this android head unit (9.0) and the person on the other end of the phone call can't hear me. So I plugged in the external and same. They can barely here me when I am screaming into it.
I have got to get this fixed.
Anyone found a solution yet???
Find out how to get into the engineering menu of your HU, there you can adjust the mic gain. Also have a look at this thread for other ideas.
did you fix it?
---------- Post added at 12:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:03 PM ----------
I improved the level of my mic built-in with th MTK enginerring app. hardware test and changing mic volumen in normal mode, headset mode and loudspeaker mode, but it is not enough when engine is working. I will try to solder and external mic to the pads of mic built-in. I think that it is problem of software filtering because when engine is off, sounds doesn't rattle, the volumen is not to high but the comunication is steady, but when i start the engine, conversation gets cuts. maybe engine sound is interfering with the mic built-in mic. I will update progresions.
8227L YT9216BJ Head Unit
even my above car android unit has mic problem. it does not recognize the voice commands unless spoken very close to the mic, which is not practical
Also, Bluetooth calls are intermittently heard (with Airtel). But when switched to JIO simcard, works fine.
Please can anyone support with a solution on both the issues
[email protected]
In short for helping anyone that has the same problem
I have a Bosion D6 android (android 10 version – 4 gb ram 64 storage, 8-core) head unit on my Ford Focus mk2.
Everything was perfect expect the microphone, even after I installed the external mic that came with it, the sound was poor and my listeners’ complaint that the quality of the conversation was not very good.
Read tons of stuff here and elsewhere so I decided to spend some money (around 20€) and bought a Sony microphone XA-MC10 to replace the Chinese original (since I have read some good reviews and you can find it in your local market also)
The difference was more than noticeable and everyone now listen to me perfect. i test it myslef through the sound recorder app and it seems like going from say 64kbits/s to 146kbits/s or more.
I don't want to open another thread because the problem is similar.
When I connect with iphone carplay, the interlocutor often hears me jerky, I tried both internal microphone and external also cutting the internal one to exclude it but nothing.
Using the application "microphone amplifier" and applying the filters instead it feels perfectly, but obviously every time it should start and set, so very boring.
Tried to use MTK Engineering mode to change the mic volume, but it doesn't solve completely.
Anyone have any ideas to try?
Thank you in advance
Did anyone ever find a solution to sounding really quiet to the person your calling? Cheers
I have just received my CarPad3 (the VW looking one) and have installed XDauto on the unit, i have only temporarily plugged the unit in the car for testing, and noticed two things that I would like to figure out fixes for.
First, when i play music from the bluetooth app, the volume is very low compared to other apps. I have pressed the volume plus button on the bluetooth app, but nothing seems to happen, or it is already maxed out. Is there a way to make an adjustment to this?
Second, would be the that when i shut off the car, the unit just seems to keep rebooting. It was only a test connection so i just disconnected it. I need to do some further testing, but wondering if there is anything obvious that i need to change either in the connection or in the software.
Finally can anyone point me in the direction for the code for the BT app on github. I might want to play around with adding some features. I use BT audio quite a bit and would like to add to it if i could figure it out.
Thanks!
Hello, I recently installed the above Android unit into my 2014 Mitsubishi EVO with Rockford system. It came with the can bus decoder MT-SS-03 for 2014 Outlander. I set everything up in the factory settings menu but I'm having a major audio problem that sadly is ruining an otherwise awesome experience.
If I listen to any music at high volume all system audio cuts out completely for 5-10 seconds at a time. I've found this problem is directly related to the volume. The louder it is, the quicker the audio will cut out. I've double and triple checked all wiring and pins, updated to the latest MCU 2.59, Android system (8-3-2017), etc.
I'm out of ideas on what to try next but hoping someone here can shine some light on the situation. Thanks in advance and looking forward to putting an end to this issue!
do you have proper canbus?
Yes I do, according to them. I did get a red one though which was labeled for 2014 Outlander which I understand to be the newer can box for 2014-2015 EVO but the pictures I've seen show a black box and mine was red but labeled as the newer one. I thought the older 2008-2013 units were red. Not sure if that makes a difference or not but I do have sound from all speakers so it works it just cuts out at high volume. However, the amplifier settings on the Android unit do respond a bit strange. The sub slider seems to change all speaker output and not the sub directly and has a pretty minimal effect. The fader seems right at least as far as the channels go.
In the meantime I did contact the seller on Amazon about the issue. They told me the issue is caused by the high power protection of the factory amplifier. To fix the issue they want me to re-install the factory radio, turn the volume sliders down to the "middle part" and then install the Android unit again. This seems a bit strange to me but it could be the factory radio interfaces with the amp in a different way and is able to control the gain of the sub and the Android unit cannot. With the newer Android unit I noticed the max volume is much louder so maybe I'm hitting some sort of over current protection causing the amp to momentarily shut down. Has anyone ever heard of this?
What I'm not sure about is when this procedure would be needed. Is it because I had the amp slider on factory unit is set too high before I removed it or is it because I disconnected the battery and the amp defaults to a higher setting that only the factory unit can adjust? It would be a real shame if every time power is cut from the amp I need to repeat the process. I fear that may be the case because I'm not sure the amp has an internal EPROM or non-volatile memory that's saving the settings and I did in fact disconnect the battery.
Either way I'll be happy to finally get to the bottom of the issue and I'm sure I'll find out whether or not I'll need to swap the radios again. Until then I'll keep the factory unit closeby. Luckily it's very easy to swap out so fingers crossed this fixes the problem. It's going to be a few days till I pull the radio out since I'm also waiting for a replacement USB harness since one of mine is inop due to a damaged wire.
Please let me know if anyone has any input about this. Thanks again.
Ditto - did you try swapping back and lowering the volume, if so, did it resolve the issue?
I have only had mine for 3 days, Dasiata HA2106-S720 with Dasaita CB003 Canbus harness in a 2013 Mitsubishi ASX with Rockford Fosgate. I would agree that the volume seems higher, so there could be some truth in the Sellers theory.
By the way my experience with Subwoofer control also matches yours - adjusting the lowest frequencies on the Graphic Equalizer seems to affect the main speakers more than the subwoofer, and I am not getting the same 'punchy' bass as the OEM Head Unit.
TSimone said:
Hello, I recently installed the above Android unit into my 2014 Mitsubishi EVO with Rockford system. It came with the can bus decoder MT-SS-03 for 2014 Outlander. I set everything up in the factory settings menu but I'm having a major audio problem that sadly is ruining an otherwise awesome experience.
If I listen to any music at high volume all system audio cuts out completely for 5-10 seconds at a time. I've found this problem is directly related to the volume. The louder it is, the quicker the audio will cut out. I've double and triple checked all wiring and pins, updated to the latest MCU 2.59, Android system (8-3-2017), etc.
I'm out of ideas on what to try next but hoping someone here can shine some light on the situation. Thanks in advance and looking forward to putting an end to this issue!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You made also the Car Settings to work well ? Things like keyless operations, windshiel wipers operation, lights time out, auto fold mirror, etc ? Thanks.
Recently installed a GA9180a for my 2010 Chevy
runs really nice out the box, start up time is around 20 seconds or less
i'm getting some serious electrical interference noise once the car is started and increases with rpm, if the car is off I do not hear it, I believe this is a known issue with the fm antenna adapter. I bought a fm antenna noise filter to fix this hopefully.
ok google commands work well, I was wondering if theres a way to make phone calls, if I tell google to call...it will not dial out just show a phone logo with the contacts name, has anyone been successful with this?
also, want to remove the wire so while reversing audio will not be cut out, i think its an orange wire
anyone know of the standby mode as well, so the unit does not shut off completely when off?
also, need help with and looking to add my OEM GM reverse camera and have to splice into lines
looking to use the stock GM male mini USB adapter to connect to the back of this unit, so the usb in my center console can charge devices
To the poster above me, theres a setting under the CAR category to enable audio while reversing - you shouldnt need to cut any wires.
I bought this same head unit back in may and im just now getting around to installing it into a 2010 silverado without the factory bose option. The instructions that came with it are a joke. On bluetooth only, theres alternator whine thats easy to hear at higher volume levels and BT audio causes the pillar tweeters to clip/crackle/cutout at certain frequencies. This is more pronounced on rock music with drum cymbals, like most five finger death punch tracks. Funny thing is, that completely goes away when listening to the FM radio or any of the apps on the device like spotify. This is tolerable since the only thing i use BT for is making calls through my phone. Phone calls are not so demanding in the quality department and honestly i can live with it.
What im having the worst luck with is the backup camera. Ive got a backup camera hooked to it using the included 'cam' yellow RCA connector. Ive only connected it for testing at this point and with it getting a solid 12v supply right off the battery, its not working with the head unit. The head unit successfully detects reverse and switches to the camera display, but the screen stays black and theres a yellow diamond with an exclamation point at the center of the screen. Switching to any other gear or back to park returns the head unit to whatever screen it was on before. I checked the camera on another screen and it displays fine. Prior to that, I checked the inline fuse and replaced it just to be sure. Ive already gone through the settings in the head unit itself, video while moving is turned on.
Ive read/seen other people with similar head units (joying, etc) having to disconnect an 'orange wire' from the back of the head unit to get backup video to work correctly. HOWEVER, there are only 2 wires going to my head unit that are orange, one is orange/white and handles illumination while the other is orange/black and handles the reverse signal from the vehicle itself. I disconnected the orange/black wire just to see if that was it. It was not. With this wire disconnected the head unit no longer detected when the vehicle was in reverse and the screen never changed when i put the vehicle into reverse.
At this point im thinking theres gotta be a firmware bug, hardware failure on my particular unit or im doing something wrong. The vehicle-radio harness that came with it is plug and play. The camera itself connects with a single RCA plug and has a positive and negative lead for battery power. I dont know WHAT could possibly be connected incorrectly, but its a theory.
My ask here is if anyone has experience with this head unit, or with eonon head units in general. Does anyone have a clue how i could solve this backup camera problem?
FYI:
there is a can bus decoder in the 'plug and play' vehicle-radio harness, disconnecting it causes the head unit to not wake up when the truck turns on.
this is the new and upgraded version from eonon
android 8.0
px5
4gb ram
32gb storage
feellicks said:
My ask here is if anyone has experience with this head unit, or with eonon head units in general. Does anyone have a clue how i could solve this backup camera problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got my unit also and have the exact same problem as you with the reverse camera, also like you i found lots of talk about cutting the orange wire however I wasn't game to do this yet but it seems like that is not the solution.
it sounds like you guys have a OEM back camera and if your backup camera video shows on rear view mirror check this link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOUzGLevxqU
If your backup camera shows on old OEM radio system, check this link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzvycdsdIDA
I did some research but I didn't try it yet. I have backup camera on rear view mirror.
Rear DVD Controls/ DVD Player on 2010 Chevy Avalanche
I recently installed the Eonon GA9180a in my 2010 Chevy Avanlanche with Bose and Rear DVD, first I’m also getting a lot of interference from the radio when the WiFi and Bluetooth are on, wondering if a installing a noise canceling module will fix this? Also I seem to have lost the functions of my rear controls for the DVD players, I’m also wondering if anyone has figured out if this unit allows to watch a movie in the back (rear seat) while listening to music in front main unit?
not sure what you mean by installing a noise cancellation module, i had this unit and I never got the interference noise to go away, I switched a Xtrons unit and it worked well for a couple of months but then the screen went out. I got a replacement but now im getting the same noise interference
Sorry I was talking about a Automotive Noise Suppressor of some sort, just wondering! I really like the deck and features but there are some limitations!
GA9180A
Did you ever get your backup camera to work with the GA9180A?
I have tried it with the regular purple wire "CAN IN" supposed to be "CAM IN". I have tried it as AUXILIARY. I can't get the damn thing to work.
I installed a pumpkin brand in my buick and I had to build my own harness and I got it working first try. This eonon plug and play unit is not working.
If you have it working could you please let me know how. It would be awesome with pictures.
I have the factory bose. I found that ebay instructions were better than Amazon instructions.
They have the purple "CAN IN" plugged into a video out. I don't know why. I would assume that a large number of people are installing a camera and would need to connect the CAM IN into the RCA coming from the camera.
This is the most frustrating install ever. The amazon seller doesn't understand I want a working backup camera.
Eonon says it should work. Nothing more.
Thanks,
Chad
I own a 2013 Silverado with the same radio. The fix is simple.
Engine noise fix.
Take about 6 inches of copper wire. Wrap it around the Sub rca (Blue) coming out the back of the harness and ground it to a screw on the radio. (I drew a red line in the picture showing how to fix it)
If your camera is not working you might have it in the correct rca but the harness might be in the wrong place. the camera wire harness fits into 2 spots on the back of the radio. make sure you put it in the correct slot. look at the picture i posted for your engine noise issue and the correct spot for the harness.
GonzoBean what kind of radio did you have before? if you had a cheap factory radio the basic one chevy gives there is a little more work to get the backup camera to work. Thats if you have a factory backup camera already installed that goes to the mirror. you need to tap into the signal.
**Edit**
2nd picture is for proper wire harness install for bose system.
GA9180A
BIG Thanks for the grounding tip and for the diagram. I am installing a new camera so the feed is coming from the new camera, not the existing wiring harness.
I have tried connecting the camera RCA feed to the "CAN IN" eonon typo should read "CAM IN". The headunit detects when I am in reverse and I get yellow ! triangle.
I have tried connecting the camera RCA feed to the "AUX IN" and then open the "AUX IN" app and I get the yellow ! triangle.
I have tried 2 different backup camera's.
Surely someone has installed a new camera to this unit. Eonon has not been helpful.
Thoughts? Ideas?
Thanks,
Chad
KidGixxer said:
I own a 2013 Silverado with the same radio. The fix is simple.
Engine noise fix.
Take about 6 inches of copper wire. Wrap it around the Sub rca (Blue) coming out the back of the harness and ground it to a screw on the radio. (I drew a red line in the picture showing how to fix it)
If your camera is not working you might have it in the correct rca but the harness might be in the wrong place. the camera wire harness fits into 2 spots on the back of the radio. make sure you put it in the correct slot. look at the picture i posted for your engine noise issue and the correct spot for the harness.
GonzoBean what kind of radio did you have before? if you had a cheap factory radio the basic one chevy gives there is a little more work to get the backup camera to work. Thats if you have a factory backup camera already installed that goes to the mirror. you need to tap into the signal.
**Edit**
2nd picture is for proper wire harness install for bose system.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This image shows which wire is the rear camera in and where the harness should be plugged into.
Did you hook the camera up? rca from camera to radio. Power to reverse light?
Did you go into car settings on radio? code 126 and make sure rudder is on.
Ill be in and out of here all day. So we can get this problem solved for you.
The camera has power it is connected to backup lights. I tried 2 different cameras.
From your picture I have rca plug 10 connected to my backup camera's rca feed. Why is it necessary to plug 11 to 12, 13 to 14, 15 to 16 or is it?
I have also tried my backup camera feed to the AUX IN and use the AUX IN app also without any luck. I had to wire a power line for that test.
Thanks KidGixxer, I was out of town today, but will check into "rudder is on".
I will let you know what I find about "rudder is on"
KidGixxer said:
This image shows which wire is the rear camera in and where the harness should be plugged into.
Did you hook the camera up? rca from camera to radio. Power to reverse light?
Did you go into car settings on radio? code 126 and make sure rudder is on.
Ill be in and out of here all day. So we can get this problem solved for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello. Same issue as the above posters. I made sure rudder was on and still a failed camera feed with the exclamation point triangle.
The option right above Rudder is what you need to check.
Its called "Prohibit Reverse" Make sure that is off.
And make sure your camera mode is set to "F-CAM"
KidGixxer said:
The option right above Rudder is what you need to check.
Its called "Prohibit Reverse" Make sure that is off.
And make sure your camera mode is set to "F-CAM"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I put the "Prohibit Reverse" toggled to off which was default to off. With the cam set to F-Cam. I still have the yellow/red/green grid with a blacked out screen when I go to reverse. Anyone else have this same issue?
Antabolic said:
So I put the "Prohibit Reverse" toggled to off which was default to off. With the cam set to F-Cam. I still have the yellow/red/green grid with a blacked out screen when I go to reverse. Anyone else have this same issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're seeing the green yellow red grid it might be an issue with the camera itself. If the camera was not hooked up you would get a yellow triangle with an exclamation point.
KidGixxer said:
If you're seeing the green yellow red grid it might be an issue with the camera itself. If the camera was not hooked up you would get a yellow triangle with an exclamation point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It also does that as well. At random it seems, going back and forth between the grid and the triangle
I haven't got the camera issue as I ended up going with an aftermarket reverse camera, but I have an annoying issue with background noise/static.
It seems to be similar to the computer generated noise that cheap/early sound cards had in the background. It's enough to be noticeable if the car is idling and the volume is very low.
It doesn't get worse with speed, it is just a constant background static that seems to be computer generated.
I tried wrapping some shielding around the audio cables, but this made no difference. Grounded the headunit directly to the chasis with copper wire, made next to no difference.
Any ideas on the noise would be appreciated.
To the people that still have camera issues. are you using the factory camera that came with your vehicle. Or an aftermarket brand. If its aftermarket the camera might be bad. or bad wiring.(Did you wire the power source to the reverse light and not the brake light. also the camera wont turn on if you e brake is engaged.)
If you are using a factory camera you cant go by the wiring that the manual that comes with the radio says. It wrong. you will need to get a rca cable and cut one side and tap into 2 wires by the bcm near the gas/brake pedals.
aust_white said:
Grounded the headunit directly to the chasis with copper wire, made next to no difference.
Any ideas on the noise would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That only helps with engine noise.
Turn off Bluetooth and WiFi on the radio and you will hear that the static is gone. There is currently no fix for this.
We were discussing this in this post.
This post to be more specific.
We were looking into rerouting the wires inside this radio. The Bluetooth wire is taped to the top of the am/FM receiver and the WiFi wire route near it as well.
I was going to redo the wiring in my radio but haven't had the time.
KidGixxer said:
To the people that still have camera issues. are you using the factory camera that came with your vehicle. Or an aftermarket brand. If its aftermarket the camera might be bad. or bad wiring.(Did you wire the power source to the reverse light and not the brake light. also the camera wont turn on if you e brake is engaged.)
If you are using a factory camera you cant go by the wiring that the manual that comes with the radio says. It wrong. you will need to get a rca cable and cut one side and tap into 2 wires by the bcm near the gas/brake pedals.
That only helps with engine noise.
Turn off Bluetooth and WiFi on the radio and you will hear that the static is gone. There is currently no fix for this.
We were discussing this in this post.
This post to be more specific.
We were looking into rerouting the wires inside this radio. The Bluetooth wire is taped to the top of the am/FM receiver and the WiFi wire route near it as well.
I was going to redo the wiring in my radio but haven't had the time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately the noise on my unit seems unrelated to Bluetooth or WiFi.
I'll keep digging.
Thanks for your help.
Following a Tech Support suggestion from ATOTO when trying to resolve my on-screen keyboard problem I did a factory reset of my new ATOTO A6 head unit. The reset did not resolve my keyboard problem -- I found a workaround using an external USB keyboard which allowed me to update several files -- and in fact created another problem: The reset killed the ATOTO rear view camera app.
Therefore, I need a simple camera app for my hardwired, not Wi-Fi, rear-view camera.
There are many Wi-Fi apps floating around but I haven't been able to find an app for a wired camera.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Was problem solved?
Were you able to solve the problem? I think I have the same issue, camera works but something inside the head unit is not configured properly, all I get is the exclamation mark.
GL97443 said:
Were you able to solve the problem? I think I have the same issue, camera works but something inside the head unit is not configured properly, all I get is the exclamation mark.
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The exclamation mark means the head unit has triggered to the reverse input but for what ever reason is not receiving a signal from the camera. Check the cam for proper grounding, power and ensure rca is properly plugged in.
Not sure what the previous poster is talking about because there is no "app" for the reverse cam circuit (unless he is speaking of the rear "monitor" while driving forward), but it really doesn't matter since this thread 2 years old.