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ExtUSB just broke. Any tinkerer has played with that

Oh disaster. My ExtUSB port just expired.
I think I saw a piece of trace fall out, and now I am getting a 'USB device not recognized' message on all my PC's and with verious cables. It is charging still, but no logic connection.
I read somewhere the connector on HTC is bad anyway, it uses PCB traces in stead of real connector leads. And when I first bought it, I wondered why eBay sells replacements
But the replacement one seems to have real connectors, not a piece of PCB. So it is either better, or it will not fit...
Well, I am going for warranty first anyway. I still have stock ROM luckily, but I did drill a 1mm hole over the soft-reset button.
Just out of interest and in preparation: Has anyone ever replaced this component? I have in the past soldered small surface mount SMD chips, which experience taught me it can be done, but is far from fun or easy.
Also, anyone can confirm the HTC ExtUSB connector typically uses PCB traces, and/or if this replacements will fit?
Thanks
Edit: Managed to locate my watchmakers loupe, and the connector has proper leads with a small spring-bend at the end. Some of these bends seem flatter than others, so that may be the problem.
Edit2:
Well, I fixed it, but not the way one may expect. No soldering or opening the device or any other possible voiding of warranty involved.
As stated, looking up close with a proper 10x watchmakers loupe, I found that the ExtUSB socket did have proper leads, the middle ones bend slightly different than the outer ones. Touching them with a needle showed all still had a good spring action, and they seemed to be OK, only a little far back. Also, I found one cable that did work.
The middle leads in a mini-USB plug are also a little further back then the outer 2. I decided that under normal conditions they already barely touch, and usage may have bend or wore the middle leads back ever so slightly. Just enough to make them fail to reach each other.
So, with a fine grained grinding stone, I removed about 1/2 mm from the mini-USB plug on a cable. Take care to grind so you do not pull the leads away from the plastic. I guess you can also use fine sandpaper on a fixed surface, especially if you do not have a fine grained stone. After that, the connection works.
I do not consider this an advised solution, especially if you can claim warranty. But the fact I had already drilled a hole for easy access to the reset button, and the fact I would be without phone for a time, made me try and fix it myself.

my old polaris had a similar issue, and i took it to a local cell phone repair store. i was told these connectors partially break all the time. 20 dollars and 20 minutes later, my pda was fixed. consider having it fixed locally before sending it to htc and losing it for weeks

Needed Button Strip - Anyone have HD2 Parts?

In the process of replacing my lcm, I managed to tear the button flex cable that connects to the mainboard.
I am currently looking for a the button flex replacement. What is the best way of tracking something like this down without going to HTC?
If there is no current seller/merchant available...Um...Is anyone selling an HTC HD2 for parts!?!?!?
Pics included...You can see the button strip, and the little 45 degree angle break on the flex..SUCKS!

I saw the break... Man, that's bad luck...
I hope you find a new button strip. The only other solution would be to solder fine wires from the point I highlighted on the photo. But that is very very very difficult... If you decide to do so until you find a new button strip I would recommend you to let an expert solder it, for example a television-technician. That shouldn't cost you more than a bier for the technician!
Wish you luck!

This just in, I have since purchased a broken hd2 and replaced the button strip. It has a light adhesive and is mounted on two small plastic posts on either end. To loosen the adhesive, just apply gentle heat (blow dryer) and GENTLY peel off. You might come across a stubborn part and want to give it a harsh tug, but you need to methodically peel it up using some sort of flat piece to get from underneath it.

Another torn flex Anyone has spare one or knows where can I get it?

I'm sorry but can't help. I get parts for iPAQs from iPAQ Repairs in the UK. I'm surprised there isn't something similar for HTC parts.
I'm interested in what an 'lcm' is. I've seen it mentioned but with no description.

i need one of these too. i hate htc's policy in not selling parts directly.
This button board should only be like upto $40 usd.

im needing a main board charger soxet broke if price is right ill sell

I have the same problem ....you solved?
where did you buy?

Hi
I got a keypad PCB on eBay... But it was very expensive

Found it http://cgi.ebay.com/Flex-Cable-Keyboard-PCB-HTC-HD2-T8585-HD-II-2-Leo-/320562469094

please how we can solder this wires
please how we can solder this wires

dvdaio said:
please how we can solder this wires
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should be a good electronic technician or know a good one. Otherwise I advice you not to try. I am a ordinary technician and I can say that in my case it was very very difficult and even if I tried hard, I wasn't able fix all connections. Only two of my buttons work right now.

How to Replace Button Strip?
Anyone know of a link showing how to replace this strip? Either I can't find key words for a search or there aren't any good videos out there. - thanks

Good to hear I'm not the only one to snap it so easily. Ordered a replacement from e-bay.

Sorry to dig up an old post but, I need that little wire that connects the wifi/bluetooth module to the main board. I replaced the digitizer in my phone and I somehow jacked up one of the ends on the cable. Anyone out there have parts?

[Q] Not charging unless I put upward pressure on USB cable

Hello everyone,
Since a few days my phone doesn't charge unless I hold the cable up and in the left or right corner of the port.
If I just stick it in, it doesn't connect/charge at all. And sometimes it says it's charging, but it isn't at all (or it's losing more power than it's receiving because it doesn't have good contact with the port).
Is there any fix to this or does anyone else have this problem?
It is NOT a problem with my micro-USB cable, I tried many, they all act the same.

Bad news
You have to replace your USB port, there's no doubt about, unfortunately!:crying:
Edit: there's a little chance to solve this by cleaning up your USB port...

i had this and it turned out to be dirt ground into the bottom of the USB port. A thin piece of wire from a tie wrap sorted it.
(of course, usually it IS a faulty USB port)

samsamuel said:
i had this and it turned out to be dirt ground into the bottom of the USB port. A thin piece of wire from a tie wrap sorted it.
(of course, usually it IS a faulty USB port)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose this is a stand for what I said:highfive:?!

hehe,. yea, , only to begin with i was countering your 'theres no doubt' remark, , but then realised i hadn't read your whole post.

Well guys, I tried cleaning. A layer of dust came of so I got excited, but it didn't work.
There also is way too much play with the cable when it's in, so yeah.
How much is that port change going to cost me?

from what I've read its not so much the price as the difficulty, , there are loads of stories of repair shops screwing it up. If you're a dab hand with a soldering iron, give it a go, or if you go to a repair shop, get down in writing what they are gonna do if they screw it up.

Yet again a good advice!
I wouldn't suggest to do it your self unless you're a soldering master: as samuel suggested there are (so called) profesionals failing to do this, just because it's tricky enough to get the job done the right way.:fingers-crossed:

Sometimes it is possible to resolve by tightening up the connector in a fashion that promotes the contact of the female to male contacts.
Done one dismantled once as easy to work on connector, basically I pushed the shorter edge in just slightly & with CARE on the female socket in the area over the contact plate thus forcing the male plug to push tighter against the contacts, also tweaked the to plug retention lugs so plug clips tightly.
Worth trying as if lucky can be a cheap easy solution & has worked fine on one I did but as only done the 1 I have no idea if it going to work for majority of worn plugs :-S
Replacing board socket is tricky & not that cheap normally as a good tech knows it a not liked or easy repair ... good luck

Thanks for the great advice everyone, I really appreciate it.
Mister B said:
Sometimes it is possible to resolve by tightening up the connector in a fashion that promotes the contact of the female to male contacts.
Done one dismantled once as easy to work on connector, basically I pushed the shorter edge in just slightly & with CARE on the female socket in the area over the contact plate thus forcing the male plug to push tighter against the contacts, also tweaked the to plug retention lugs so plug clips tightly.
Worth trying as if lucky can be a cheap easy solution & has worked fine on one I did but as only done the 1 I have no idea if it going to work for majority of worn plugs :-S
Replacing board socket is tricky & not that cheap normally as a good tech knows it a not liked or easy repair ... good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm going to try this first, if it doesn't work, I'll follow samsamuel's advice.
I love this community!

Unscrewed said:
Thanks for the great advice everyone, I really appreciate it.
I'm going to try this first, if it doesn't work, I'll follow samsamuel's advice.
I love this community!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May take couple of adjustment to get it good & best do a little at a time.
Will only work if is contact issue between plugs, if issue is broken contact leg or poor connector leg solder joint to mainboard then no benefit.
Post back if get it working ...

Mister B said:
May take couple of adjustment to get it good & best do a little at a time.
Will only work if is contact issue between plugs, if issue is broken contact leg or poor connector leg solder joint to mainboard then no benefit.
Post back if get it working ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure thing! I have one question, though. How do I correctly open up the device without damaging it (too much)?

Torx screwdriver and a thin credit card, there break down videos on youtube.

As above really, do your homework on stripdown & take a lot of care, back cover is easy if done right, plectrum is useful plastic tool for prying things apart or get hold of decent plastic opening tools, credit card can be used but too thick really.

Hit some problems during screen replacement

Just bought a new screen for a cracked hd2 and hit some problems. Firstly, its a uk hd2, so it was a solder connection, i bought the screen + digi from ebay and noticed it was a ribbon connection (not sure if that will make a difference). When undoing these plastic clips
http://imgur.com/Faiyig3
Both broke. They were so brittle, has anybody seen/heard of a way to fix this? I put it all back together and the screen does come on, but touch doesnt work.
Can anybody tell me what these cables do? Is one for touch, what about the other?
Gutted about my hd2, its been going so well all these years...is it fixable?

Not good :-/
those 2 clips: one is the flex ribbon connector & other is the LCD ribbon connector.
The ribbon from LCD also is feed for digitizer.
Not sure if the locking arms are replaceable by themselves ! will look at an old mainboard & see.
you may get some function by bending a very light V in the ribbon so point of v is ribbon contact face & thus pushes tighter in socket promoting better contact.
putting a bit of tape on back may help too! be careful though as actual socket is very fragile too ...

Mister B said:
Not good :-/
those 2 clips: one is the flex ribbon connector & other is the LCD ribbon connector.
The ribbon from LCD also is feed for digitizer.
Not sure if the locking arms are replaceable by themselves ! will look at an old mainboard & see.
you may get some function by bending a very light V in the ribbon so point of v is ribbon contact face & thus pushes tighter in socket promoting better contact.
putting a bit of tape on back may help too! be careful though as actual socket is very fragile too ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tell me about it, thanks for explaining what the ribbon connectors do...I couldn't understand why the screen would turn on if the connector was broke. That's a good idea about slightly bending the cable, I will try that tomorrow afternoon. If i could swap them out, that would be awesome.
Thanks for answering, I appreciate you talking time to help a fellow hd2 fan!

Have made none working digitizer work via creating very light v shape bend in middle of contact area (bending across width of cable)
Do be gentle though ... not sure how successful it will be without clamp though :-/

fracmo2000 said:
Just bought a new screen for a cracked hd2 and hit some problems. Firstly, its a uk hd2, so it was a solder connection, i bought the screen + digi from ebay and noticed it was a ribbon connection (not sure if that will make a difference). When undoing these plastic clips
http://imgur.com/Faiyig3
Both broke. They were so brittle, has anybody seen/heard of a way to fix this? I put it all back together and the screen does come on, but touch doesnt work.
Can anybody tell me what these cables do? Is one for touch, what about the other?
Gutted about my hd2, its been going so well all these years...is it fixable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how did they break? i'm going to attempt this myself soon and would appreciate any advice on getting the clips open safely.

G2 unresponsive screen after replacing charging flex cable

Hello
I can't charge my LG G2 D802, so I ordered a charging flex cablefrom ebay.
After replaced, the phone charges well, but the screen is almost unresponsive.
And it's very interesting, because if I replace to the old one, everything is the same, almost unresponsive screen, not like before disassembly...
Any idea what to do?
Connectors and everything looks fine, but I can't believe touch screen stop working after disassembly.
Please help if You could...
Thank You!

You disassembled the phone? If you didn't put all the components back in place as it comes from factory and taped, then there could be grounding issues. There is a set of transistors next to the lcd connector and above the charging port, make sure it's touching the golden pad on bottom and is taped.
Or else it's a bad cable, bad grounding somehow, moisture issues etc etc.

I think You're right.
The set of transistors may not connecting well.
Can I use processor pasta to glue it back?
Or just some simple tape from above?
-----------------------------------------------------------
So I cleaned it with alcohol and the original glue getting stronger, so I put it back to the right place and put some tape on it.
But still the same.
Do I have to put tape on the cables above the battery?
How could I find where is the bad grounding?

BBOutlaw said:
I think You're right.
The set of transistors may not connecting well.
Can I use processor pasta to glue it back?
Or just some simple tape from above?
-----------------------------------------------------------
So I cleaned it with alcohol and the original glue getting stronger, so I put it back to the right place and put some tape on it.
But still the same.
Do I have to put tape on the cables above the battery?
How could I find where is the bad grounding?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No i don't recommend to put thermal paste therez if it conductive it can short nearby components and can also get messy, it is only for using on chips. I suggest you use double sided tape, but do it strategically so that it leaves a small portion open for the golden pad to make contact. And after that you put nonconductive tape on top of that. Make sure the metal part of the white cable nearby is not touching this area, or you can also put tape between them. I suggest to put tape on the lcd connector as well.
Whenever this problem arises, and if you have trouble to fix it, an easy way is to disconnect and reconnect the battery after a few seconds, should work ok.
You can also purchase a new one like this, look for your device model - https://m.ebay.com/itm/183023879505

crophs said:
No i don't recommend to put thermal paste therez if it conductive it can short nearby components and can also get messy, it is only for using on chips. I suggest you use double sided tape, but do it strategically so that it leaves a small portion open for the golden pad to make contact. And after that you put nonconductive tape on top of that. Make sure the metal part of the white cable nearby is not touching this area, or you can also put tape between them. I suggest to put tape on the lcd connector as well.
Whenever this problem arises, and if you have trouble to fix it, an easy way is to disconnect and reconnect the battery after a few seconds, should work ok.
You can also purchase a new one like this, look for your device model - https://m.ebay.com/itm/183023879505
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems like the set of transistors well connected now and I put tapes on it and on the screen connector as well.
And I reconnected the battery too, but nothing happened.
It's the same as before.
And if I replace the charging port flex cable to the old one, it's the same too, but before disassembly it works, but the problem was I cannot charge the phone.
Any other idea what should I do to fix it?
I cannot choose D802 on the link You gave me...
Anyway I think this one and the old one is fine if it's about the touch screen, have to be something another...

BBOutlaw said:
Seems like the set of transistors well connected now and I put tapes on it and on the screen connector as well.
And I reconnected the battery too, but nothing happened.
It's the same as before.
And if I replace the charging port flex cable to the old one, it's the same too, but before disassembly it works, but the problem was I cannot charge the phone.
Any other idea what should I do to fix it?
I cannot choose D802 on the link You gave me...
Anyway I think this one and the old one is fine if it's about the touch screen, have to be something another...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to read carefully what i wrote, hope someone else finds time to help you.

crophs said:
You need to read carefully what i wrote, hope someone else finds time to help you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I did as You told me... :/
I hope so and Thank You for trying to help me!