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Guyz, need ur honest opinion/idea here :help:
i'm thinking to install this 7" monitor in my car (USD110), and plug it with my Touch Pro via TV-Out cable .. so the video appears on the screen and the audio comes out from my car speakers..
The purpose is, so i can use my TP in-car with larger screen and better view
- Garmin Mobile XT GPS navigation (actually this is my main purpose)
- Google Maps Satellite Image n Street navigation
- internet surfing
- watch video
- listen to mp3
- play games (for my kids)
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actually i'm stealing this guy's idea.. looks cool and useful
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjnABOFkJZw
So what do guyz think? is it not worth..? i can see more pro's than cons.. here are some cons that i've thought about:
- TP battery will suffer especially if long distance traveling (even we can charge battery while using the TV-out cable)
- internet surfing only when my car is idling ... how to surf if driving 60mph?! :shock:
There might be more +ve or -ve consequences, so i need ur honest opinions especially those who have tried and used it before.. Thanks in advance
Should work only problem is your Touch Pro is 4:3 and that's a 16:9 screen so you will either have a stretched image or black bars at the sides....
Infact now I see it says only 234 pixes high that's rubbish!
i use my Fuze on my iva-w505 all the time for gps, but i always want to touch the w505's screen to make changes.... then i have to grab the fuze to do it.
for gps... i say get something dedicated, for everything else... the touch pro should be perfect.
jwhitham said:
Should work only problem is your Touch Pro is 4:3 and that's a 16:9 screen so you will either have a stretched image or black bars at the sides....
Infact now I see it says only 234 pixes high that's rubbish!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm noob in pixel resolution etc.. whats the best pixel for 7" screen?
I haven't checked if the TV out image goes off when you hit the power button to turn off the screen on the touch pro, but in my setup in my car i have my TP on a mount with some audio/power cable from ebay going into my center console. From there i wired an extra cig lighter off the cig lighter feed wires and plugged in a car charger to the audio/power cable as well as the audio to my aux on my stereo.
When I'm using it to listen to music if i need to charge it i just turn the screen off and it actually charges while still playing, so maybe it'll work the same way for the set up you're trying to do? This is all assuming the TV out doesn't shut off when you put the phone into standby.
According to that screen its 960x234 whereas the native resolution for TP is 640x480, so you would get a stretched screen, i tried it on my 46" lcd in the living room and it wasn't pretty.
I like using my Fuze connected to my Pioneer AVIC F700bt. Like someone else mentioned you have to tap the small screen on the Fuze to navigate it. There is a thread I found on mp3car.com that linked back to XDA talking about making the Fuze a usb host. If that becomes successful then we might be able to use an external touchscreen to contol our devices.
Until then, I'm gonna order a bluetooth mouse to control the Fuze easily with one hand instead of trying to tap small buttons on its screen with my fat fingers.
ewww
While I like the idea you got going on... you're really not benefiting at all except maybe for GPS use.
The lack of a touch screen on the 7" sucks. If i have to hold the phone in my hand and look AT the phone to maneuver around... I might as well just use the phone with a windshield mount.
Don't they make a 7" touchscreen monitor that you can actually use to control the phone entirely? I remember some guy doing this for the Axim x51v.
Anyone made any progress with this sort of idea?
thedocrn said:
I like using my Fuze connected to my Pioneer AVIC F700bt. Like someone else mentioned you have to tap the small screen on the Fuze to navigate it. There is a thread I found on mp3car.com that linked back to XDA talking about making the Fuze a usb host. If that becomes successful then we might be able to use an external touchscreen to contol our devices.
Until then, I'm gonna order a bluetooth mouse to control the Fuze easily with one hand instead of trying to tap small buttons on its screen with my fat fingers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i just picked up a Fuze to do this exact same thing with my f700bt. Was thinking of pairing the bluetooth mouse(Logitech v270 seems to work with WM phones) and keyboard(think outside stowaway) as well. My main purpose was really to escape the hassle of installing an external carpc. I do a lot of school and business on the road so this fulfills my needs with the mouse and keyboard added. Also, SLINGBOX
I just installed an AVH-P3100DVD with A/V input in my car today. I'd also like to run the TV-Out cable to use GPS on my screen.
I'm actually searching for the thread now on how to make it and I came across this thread.
just hook up the tv out cable to the fuze multi-adapter and the rca's on the other end to the a/v inputs of the headunit
i have a Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD which i then plug my HTC Fuze into. I use the adapter that came with the phone, and then plug a regular av cable into it. In order for the regular AV cable to work you have to plug the Red cable into the Yellow input, the Yellow Cable into the White input, and the White cable into the Red input.
The video quality is fair, the audio is so so. I use it mainly for my GPS and YouTube videos. Its pretty cool. When using the GPS on my Fuze I can have the sound from my phone come out through the speakers, at this point i cant play music though, but my stereo has a set up which i can use my AV input as my background (no audio just video), which then while allow me to play my ipod/radio/cd whatever with my GPS on the background. check ur manual many of Pioneer come with that option.
the sound that comes from the Fuze has a little static and can be quite annoying if the volume is high i dont know if this is because i am using the adapter and a regular cable.
anyone who has the actual Fuze Tv Out cable hear static?
well i hope this helps.
i would recommend it. it looks really cool and it is very useful when traveling.
Nathalie
well you could wait until the touch pro 2 comes out as that has 16:9 800x480 resolution.
for the external touch screen to work you would need 2 things
1st USB touchscreen kit, these are made for netbooks but most of them have Windows CE drivers on them...
2nd is your phone would require USB host mode but currently few of HTC phones have that.
eghoti1 said:
just hook up the tv out cable to the fuze multi-adapter and the rca's on the other end to the a/v inputs of the headunit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know how, I just thought I remembered someone making their own cable a while ago. I have 2 boxes full of A/V cables here but none of them have the correct jacks on both ends.
I have the TP from verizon, and i have slingbox at home, my kids are able to watch Disney in the van while driving around, not a bad picture, very little lag.
...
pcboyy said:
Guyz, need ur honest opinion/idea here :help:
i'm thinking to install this 7" monitor in my car (USD110), and plug it with my Touch Pro via TV-Out cable .. so the video appears on the screen and the audio comes out from my car speakers..
The purpose is, so i can use my TP in-car with larger screen and better view
- Garmin Mobile XT GPS navigation (actually this is my main purpose)
- Google Maps Satellite Image n Street navigation
- internet surfing
- watch video
- listen to mp3
- play games (for my kids)
actually i'm stealing this guy's idea.. looks cool and useful
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjnABOFkJZw
So what do guyz think? is it not worth..? i can see more pro's than cons.. here are some cons that i've thought about:
- TP battery will suffer especially if long distance traveling (even we can charge battery while using the TV-out cable)
- internet surfing only when my car is idling ... how to surf if driving 60mph?! :shock:
There might be more +ve or -ve consequences, so i need ur honest opinions especially those who have tried and used it before.. Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yo... That'z Brilliant... I Never Even Thought About Doin That... Might Have To Make Some Stereo Changes In My Car Too!!! Lol I'm Already Blind As A Bat... The Bigger Screen The Better...
It works grate man
I have a Ford Ranger with a kenwood 7in in dash almost just like the one u are looking at and let me tell u garmin works grate. OOOOO by the way all the music u have is gonna sound like u have the band in the back seat with u fliping rocks go for it. P.S. u need to go look at ebay for the av cable that has a charging port u will need it with the gps running. (About 8 bucks U.S.)
I'm attempting to follow loosely in Kuchar09's footsteps with my stereo upgrade. His thread can be found here.
This is going to be a two-stage install. I'm upgrading the stock sound system's components and then replacing the stock head-unit with a Galaxy Tab 2. I've already started the fabrication necessary but there is a lot more to come. If you'd like to look though my pictures the album can be found here, however I will be linking to the appropriate pictures during my work log.
Components:
Stage 1
Subs: Alpine SWS-10D4[$149.99] x2 (Fiberglass work has started on the rear doors to get these to fit.)
Amp: JBL GTO-5EZ[ $399.99]
Replacement Speakers: Polk Audio db6501[$174.99] & db5251[$189.99]
Stage 2
Front end: Galaxy Tab 2[$329.00]
USB DAC: FiiO E10 USB DAC[$75.99]
USB Mass Storage: HGST Touro Mobile 1TB[$79.99]
Dock: Samsung Universal [$31.81]
Steering Wheel Controls: Joycon EX[$38.01]
USB Hub: D-Link DUB-H7 [$25.60]
Equalizer: Clarion EQS746 [$63.35]
USB OTG: CE Compass[$6.90] (This might be switch out for a couple of these.[$9.99])
Proposed Setup:
Its not easy to draw schematics in forum posts (I might do one by hand and upload) so I'll have to paint a picture "verbally". I want to access music and movies from an external HDD (which is sync'd wirelessly with my NAS (dropbox/dropsync apps)) with my Tab 2. I want the audio from these files to play over my car stereo. There are several methods at my disposal to accomplish this task. The one I'd like to use is having the HDD and DAC connected to the tablet via a powered USB hub. Audio information will flow (hopefully) along this path: HDD > hub > Tab 2 > hub > DAC > EQ > Amp > Speakers/Subs. If I can't achieve USB audio I'll attempt to utilize the line out on my dock or, failing that, bluetooth.
Notes:
I hope to get the majority of the system working out of the car before I start the install. I'll need to purchase a power supply for the EQ and Amp. My tacoma has a built in inverter which I'll be taking advantage of for the AC components. I have a lot of work to do still on the sub woofer enclosures and plenty of fiberglass cure time to test my set up.
Day 01
I've been working with fiberglass all weekend and expect to be at it the rest of the week. The "bottom" of my sub enclosures are pretty ugly and they'll probably stay that way. I'll be using pipe insulation to help form an appealing curve around the edges. It was a cheap and I'm fairly confident I could dissolve it with gasoline if it got stuck inside the enclosure. I've been monitoring my volume and I'm on track to hit the cubic foot requirements of the subwoofers (0.54-0.89 cu. ft). I'm glad that I prefer sealed boxes because the ported enclosure requirement is nearly double and I couldn't find that much room inside the door if I wanted. I'm sure the Crutchfield guys could though judging by how neatly they packed my stereo components.
Stage 1 Components:
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Stage 2 Components:
(external HDD not pictured, too busy formatting for a closeup)
I'm fixing to leave for work but when I return I will be attempting to get the HDD, Tab 2, and DAC to play nice together. Wish me luck.
Back from work and working on configuring the tablet to work with a USB DAC. This has been a learning experience. I've tried flashing to a more USB friend kernel but to no avail. I'm seriously considering switching to a Nexus 7 at this point.
Day 02
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DUDE you WAY OVERPAID buying all the stuff from Crutchfield, Hell I have those same db6501 components and I got them off amazon for like 107, and I just checked a few prices and I could get those subs for like 85 a piece (with shipping) and the other polks (the 5xxx) ones are right about a 100 bucks.
Your "stage 1" from Crutchfield adds up to $1,064.95 if you bought off Amazon it would of been $644.69 thats $420.26 difference in price man, Hell even if you don't buy car audio from Amazon you could could have bought the amp from Crutchfield gone to OnlineCarStereo.com (a place I used to go before I found the better prices of Amazon) to get the speakers and even with overpaying for the amp you would still only be like $826 for your "stage 1" costs.
But more importantly, WHY are you putting your subs in your rear doors and not like under the rear seats or just saying screw the rear seats and doing a proper ported enclosure?
If the dac don't work go with the line in, keep it up!
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2
It seems very hard process though .. Keep up
Sent from my GT-P5100 using Tapatalk HD
He's completely integrating it which is a great idea.
Where as I'm making it easily dockable and removable so I can use my tab 2 10.1 still.
I just have to order the brodit holder now, possibly get a small good quality dac, and/or I'll get a good quality 3.5 Jack to 3.5 Jack line
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2
DarkKrypt said:
He's completely integrating it which is a great idea.
Where as I'm making it easily dockable and removable so I can use my tab 2 10.1 still.
I just have to order the brodit holder now, possibly get a small good quality dac, and/or I'll get a good quality 3.5 Jack to 3.5 Jack line
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have yet to come up with how I want to mount mine, but i'll be like your planning. It will "dock" into the car and can be removed easily, for now my tab sits in the passenger seat and is connected by a 3.5mm male to male cable to the aux in on my head unit, a much easier install for sure.
Another thing you could do if you have the money is go to a custom audio/video Car Store and ask them if they know anyone who can do custom front shells.
And make sure to mention that you want it dockable.
A custom shell (where the head unit, controls for air con etc etc are)
Will cost between $200 to *%+ depending on the car you have
But they look amazing.
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2
In to see how you do this. Personally, like DarkKrypt, I'd want mine to be dockable. @DarkKrypt, do you have a thread with your install?
Actually no, ill be getting a basic holder and I'll start a thread.
Money and time are my dilemmas currently to not do a custom shell
Maybe in the future.
But I'll post pics and vids anyway of my simple secure setup.
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2
nealjr said:
I'm attempting to follow loosely in Kuchar09's footsteps with my stereo upgrade. His thread can be found here.
This is going to be a two-stage install. I'm upgrading the stock sound system's components and then replacing the stock head-unit with a Galaxy Tab 2. I've already started the fabrication necessary but there is a lot more to come. If you'd like to look though my pictures the album can be found here, however I will be linking to the appropriate pictures during my work log.
Components:
Stage 1
Subs: Alpine SWS-10D4[$149.99] x2 (Fiberglass work has started on the rear doors to get these to fit.)
Amp: JBL GTO-5EZ[ $399.99]
Replacement Speakers: Polk Audio db6501[$174.99] & db5251[$189.99]
Stage 2
Front end: Galaxy Tab 2[$329.00]
USB DAC: FiiO E10 USB DAC[$75.99]
USB Mass Storage: HGST Touro Mobile 1TB[$79.99]
Dock: Samsung Universal [$31.81]
Steering Wheel Controls: Joycon EX[$38.01]
USB Hub: D-Link DUB-H7 [$25.60]
Equalizer: Clarion EQS746 [$63.35]
USB OTG: CE Compass[$6.90] (This might be switch out for a couple of these.[$9.99])
Proposed Setup:
Its not easy to draw schematics in forum posts (I might do one by hand and upload) so I'll have to paint a picture "verbally". I want to access music and movies from an external HDD (which is sync'd wirelessly with my NAS (dropbox/dropsync apps)) with my Tab 2. I want the audio from these files to play over my car stereo. There are several methods at my disposal to accomplish this task. The one I'd like to use is having the HDD and DAC connected to the tablet via a powered USB hub. Audio information will flow (hopefully) along this path: HDD > hub > Tab 2 > hub > DAC > EQ > Amp > Speakers/Subs. If I can't achieve USB audio I'll attempt to utilize the line out on my dock or, failing that, bluetooth.
Notes:
I hope to get the majority of the system working out of the car before I start the install. I'll need to purchase a power supply for the EQ and Amp. My tacoma has a built in inverter which I'll be taking advantage of for the AC components. I have a lot of work to do still on the sub woofer enclosures and plenty of fiberglass cure time to test my set up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm want to do the same with my Galaxy Tab 2, but I can't find a OTG cable to charge the tablet simultaneous!
Can you help me?
Thanks
So, as the title says, i´m thinking in giving a new life to one of my HD2's, I have 3 of them and they are almost stored in a shelf.
The idea is to get this phone as a carputer, we know HD2 is still running strong thanks to the wonderfull devs here, so I think it will be a great to have it having a new life.
The basic needs will be gps, music, fm radio, obd tool ( with torque ) and phone, and if you have more ideas i will appreciate the input.
The car is vw passat 1.8T, so i´m looking for a solution that doesn´t involve using a windshield mount as it is a little far from reach for my taste, also would like to protect it from heat in summer days, so probably i will go for a vent type mounting.
These are the things I need to decide:
What rom to use - needs to work well with navigation, bluetooth calls being able to recieve calls while with navigation on without closing it due to ram starvation;
What mount to use - this one the more important, use one mount or design and build a something to dock it when in car;
what connections to put - use the 3.5 mm jack for audio or use bluetooth ( in the last case I have to buy a bluetooth reciever cause my stereo doesn´t have bluetooth )
usb otg with powered hub - yes or no
To design something specificly for HD2 or something that in the future can be used for other phones/tablets
I will add some pictures later and more stuff coming as the project develops,
Thanks
Hugo
Hi yugoport, I think if you use obd, you will need usb otg with powered hub. Therefore you will need DFT wm6.5 from here unless you can use a ubuntu distro. The android usb otg kernel does not charge.
I am no expert on any of what you are trying to do, but will subscribe and follow with interest. Good luck.
Edit; found http://www.autologicco.com/p_obd.html
this would be really cool
Robbie P said:
Hi yugoport, I think if you use obd, you will need usb otg with powered hub. Therefore you will need DFT wm6.5 from here unless you can use a ubuntu distro. The android usb otg kernel does not charge.
I am no expert on any of what you are trying to do, but will subscribe and follow with interest. Good luck.
Edit; found http://www.autologicco.com/p_obd.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Robbie, actually I didn't know that the android USB otg didn't charge, thank you to point it out.
For OBD I have vagcom for windows PC, so the use in android will be light so I was planning to use a cheap Bluetooth adapter with torque app.
Thank you mate
Sent from my PIXELDROID HD2 using xda premium
Recently I also thought about using my HD2 for car. I am not very experienced in ROM-software, but have some ideas of hardware, esp. car handling. After surfing an Internet I have found out that original car kit price is still space shuttle level. But regular universal holders look not eough safely for me. I guess it is reasonable to buy regular battery lid for HD2( pretty cheap in the Amazon f.e.), than fix it to any PDA-Navigator holder instead of universal clamps by hidden-head screws. If you are good skilful hand maker, you can install in this lid 3 additional contacts for battery charger. But you will need proper manual for cirquit and schematics or charger specs, because this contacts connected bypass of biult in battery controller.
I agree about possibly using those 3 contacts under the battery lid for charging, and therefore using the usb port for communications only, it would be worth researching. But i never did like the idea of the original (space shuttle) car dock replacing the back cover. It did not seem secure enough and the phone could possibly be knocked off. You could strengthen a cheap universal one by putting screws into the ball joint after getting it in the right position.
Now, I am thinking about another idea. If you already used H\2 as a car GPS you definitely got the situation with overheated battery (indicates by blinking red-green LED). This case a battery controller interrupts charging and generally it's not good for the device. Especially because this season is coming. I will try to use regular cheap portable case with charger (see pic.)
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. I am going to remove battery and parts form there and place thin small cooler (from a video card or laptop) to provide good cooling. Also this case is more capable for mounting in the regular holder and can be used for the charging of the phone. It is much better than connect USB cable directly to the device. I will report my progress here.
Nice ideas flowing guys..using the contacts to charging the battery seems a great idea, I can research on this, I have some experience in electronics, also I have here a hd2 for spares that I can use to test, I will do it this week.
Regarding the place I still haven't decided if I should use a car mount or no, I only use vent mounts because I can cool it in summer, also it's closer compared to the windshield mounts.
I can try to build a special cradle for it, but I will think in it later.
I'm using clingo vent mount and its decent ,but for this I think It would be better something like the brodit mount which is a tight solution, but not integrated as I wish, so I think I will have to build a built in cradle with charging + usb otg, the direct charging of battery might be a good solution.
For the phone calls, I searched for an app that would allow to forward the call from my S3 to the HD2 via Bluetooth when I'm in the car,but there isn't such a thing, I don't have Bluetooth in my car stereo,I could buy a Bluetooth reciever and connect it to the aux, but the idea was to be able to use only the HD2 that I will leave in the car sometimes to control everything, the solution for this so far is gmate, I use it in the S3 and it works well with the HD2 also, I could set a tasker profile to disconnect the gmate from S3 and connect it to HD2 using the Bluetooth near function, then HD2 would control the phone calls.. lets see how it goes..
So I'm thinking I'm going to tether via wifi my phone's GPS with the NST. Has anyone done this? Is there a good offline map pack for eink devices?
Let me know your thoughts...
EDIT:
So I did it last weekend and it works great. Downloaded some Topos from Rmaps after rooting and turning on mock locations via SQLite on the NST. Installed GPS Tether on phone and NST. Turned on phone hotspot, then tethered the NST to the phone and blamo! GPS. I already have a solar panel I wired up and will attach to the backpack to charge both the NST and the external battery for the phone.
Meet Earl was my inspiration.
I have not tried that, but I did just order an Earl for the same purpose. Maybe you could use whatever they use for maps.
I cant post links, but google meetearl.
One of the problems with USB is that it is a bit power intensive.
Also, running things off USB you need to convert 3.3 V to 5 V to 3.3 V
If I were trying to turn the Nook into a hiking map I would...
Get a GPS module that runs off 3.3V, maybe this: http://www.adafruit.com/products/790
Connect it directly into the internal 3.3 V serial port on the Nook.
I don't know what you'd have to do for the antenna.
You'd probably need an external antenna, but external to the case or not is the question.
ace7196 said:
So I'm thinking I'm going to tether via wifi my phone's GPS with the NST. Has anyone done this? Is there a good offline map pack for eink devices?
Let me know your thoughts...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Feeding GPS data from one device to another - there is no much need for such an app, shouldn't be a problem to write one using Mock Locations provider.
I was wondering, what uses more power: external USB GPS or WiFi tethering?
iGo Primo claims it works with 1.6 and up
Sygic: GPS Navigation & Maps - 2.0.1
TomTom: 2.2 and up
Update
See OP.
ace7196 said:
I already have a solar panel I wired up and will attach to the backpack to charge both the NST and the external battery for the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds really cool!
Could you post a picture of you setup, please?
BTW: If you are Eco Friendly person, check this out Bicycle Generator Kit with 5 LED headlight and 3 LED red flashing taillight and Charger Port for MP3 and Mobile Devices
Or if you prefer DIY (like RenateNST) - this is for you USB-Bike-Generator
BTW2: Did you try Google Maps too?
Look at tophatsoaring.wikispaces.com/Top+Hat+on+Nook+Simple+Touch
It's using external gps on NST
Renate NST said:
One of the problems with USB is that it is a bit power intensive.
Also, running things off USB you need to convert 3.3 V to 5 V to 3.3 V
If I were trying to turn the Nook into a hiking map I would...
Get a USB module that runs off 3.3V, maybe this:
Connect it directly into the internal 3.3 V serial port on the Nook.
I don't know what you'd have to do for the antenna.
You'd probably need an external antenna, but external to the case or not is the question.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Renate NST, do you have any more detail about how you'd go about this? I bought a Nook ST last week for exactly this purpose (though I also want to install a solar panel on the back of it and weatherproof the whole system), and actually have one of those GPS chips you listed (on a breakout board though) from an old project with an RPi.
So in terms of the next steps... (apologies for the dumb questions, this is the first time I've properly played with something not intended to be played with)
- How do I find the serial port? I've spent about ten minutes looking at the board and haven't found it.
- How do I then get a maps program (I'm using rmaps at present) to take the serial input as GPS input? Will I need to parse the NMEA?
Thanks in advance,
Jake
The UART for /dev/ttyS1 is detailed here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1702734
I haven't looked too closely into serial NMEA-0183 working on the Android.
I have gotten the USB version to ouput via a cat.
It seems that most folks who do that just read and parse it themselves then use the Android "mock location" interface.
The "mock location" is so that you can playback a trip from Boston to San Francisco without driving anywhere.
It seems that it would be cleaner to not go through the "mock location" interface.
Now you've used this for a while how long does the WiFi last on your phone and how long on the Nook?
Even if not saving battery at least we can read the screen this way
GPS on USB
I'm using the following:
- NST glow
- OTG cable (micro USB male, regular USB female)
- reduction (regular USB male, mini USB male (and an extra USB for external power, but haven't tried that so far))
- GPS unit (QStarz BT-Q1000XT)
- USB mode utility app
- UsbGps4Droid app
Works perfectly. I haven't noticed any substantial power drain, but I switch the GPS off after a few minutes every time...
I use it mostly with Osmand, but it seems to work with any other app.
ProtD said:
I'm using the following:
- NST glow
- OTG cable (micro USB male, regular USB female)
- reduction (regular USB male, mini USB male (and an extra USB for external power, but haven't tried that so far))
- GPS unit (QStarz BT-Q1000XT)
- USB mode utility app
- UsbGps4Droid app
Works perfectly. I haven't noticed any substantial power drain, but I switch the GPS off after a few minutes every time...
I use it mostly with Osmand, but it seems to work with any other app.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tested almost that exact setup (QStarz 818X) but the extra cables were a ***** so I hacked apart my nook and got this:
(currently being refined further)
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I can't tell at all what you are doing.
Is that small thing a Bluetooth serial module? What model?
Is it going directly into a Nook hardware serial port or the USB?
Renate NST said:
I can't tell at all what you are doing.
Is that small thing a Bluetooth serial module? What model?
Is it going directly into a Nook hardware serial port or the USB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its a really small GPS module (SparkFun) going directly into the Nook UART. Currently looking to drop the battery voltage to 3.3 for V_BAT of the GPS Here is the current state:
Black - GND
Orange - VCC 3.3 (goes off with screen saver)
Blue - RX
Green - TX
The switch is for putting GPS to sleep mode.
Yup, direct to the UART is the way to go.
I guess the ceramic antenna is too big to fit inside the Nook between the aluminum plate and the top case?
I think that I'd cut a rectangle out of the Nook top case at the top for clearance,
run the wires inside the Nook and glue a tiny box on top.
I haven't checked that connector to see if there were any UART control lines or GPIO on it.
That would be the nice way to control the power mode of the GPS.
Just a quick one to say watch out on Sygic. It's a great and slick program and downloading new maps is easy. But it's made plenty of my phones run hot; it's CPU intensive probably and a battery drainer. Q: What's a battery efficient mapping app?
RMaps: Very probably light. I don't think it's very slick.
There's an app for OS maps in the UK offline: You can then preload the >8gb of maps to get full UK, very nice maps. Probably the best option. I think you have to pay for the Android app though... don't know how that would work... don't know if it's supported on Nook
iGO, TomTom: Also sounding CPU intensive. It seems vector and nav capabilities are what make these things battery draining. Stick to raster maps? (images rather than route calculable vectors)
It's been a long while but no news on this for ages.
The earl is still not out. It's also expensive.
This hack is pretty cool. The USB option is the easiest... but we can't have a USB cable hanging out the bottom, ready to rip off the mainboard rendering the whole thing useless.
So I prefer the option of soldering directly onto that UART with the GPS module.
yegoshin, what did you use to get the voltage right?
There's lots of info in the comments here:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11571
But while I understand a lot of this I'm not used to this level of project. If someone has already figured it out though with that voltage adapter, I can give that a go.
jago25_98 said:
yegoshin, what did you use to get the voltage right?
There's lots of info in the comments here:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11571
But while I understand a lot of this I'm not used to this level of project. If someone has already figured it out though with that voltage adapter, I can give that a go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you can use the direct battery voltage from the nook for the VCC, you can also use pin 1 off U2713 (however I have recently run into what seems a lack of current through that - GPS doesn't lock until I plug in a USB power really weird, no problems off the Battery though pink wire is the VCC)
Now for the V_BAT I was able to wire up this board to the nook battery https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10995 and pull 1.8Volts off that. However that board has ALOT of excess parts (its meant to be used with this GPS, which I think may work even better for the nook since the on-off can be done via that breakout board) I may look into getting a custom board stuffed.
If you happen to be near Bay Area CA, I can help you out.
Woah, I didn't know about this tiny 1.8V logic GP-2106: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10890
You don't need any level conversion, ttyS0 (UART1) is all 1.8V logic.
(You'd need to make sure that you aren't using ttyS0 for the console.)
You can grab one of the JTAG signals (also 1.8V) for the on/off control.
See the pinout here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=49931617#post49931617
You could 3D print a tiny housing and mount it on top of the bezel right over the "nook" at the top.
Something to look out for is that 5 second, 50 mA anomaly that we haven't chased down yet.
The power consumption will kill you.
Latest news?
Hi guys,
Just come back off a hiking holiday, and have been looking into using the NST as a low power, eink gps for UK OS maps etc.
Your prototype here looks spot on!
How far did you get with this - any guides etc?
Also, if someone felt like making these, 3d printing a new, deeper back case for all the extra electronics - i'm sure you'd have a nice lot of customers !
(NB looked at your pics of soldering direct onto the serial connectors internally... Woah! Bit beyond my soldering skills there!)
Good luck, would love to hear updates...
I've been doing a lot of research and am now wondering if it's even possible to attach multiple external cameras to a rooted Nexus 7 (2013 or 2012)? And the next step would be what software (app) to use to display at once?
I've seen plenty of threads where one external back-up camera is added, along with some other attachments. And a few where the Nexus is attached to one webcam.
This is for offroad auto use, in a temporary (on the go) install with the Nexus in a mount. I would like to have multiple permanent external cameras in the front and one in the rear. Four would be great, but even just two would be useful.
I've seen it done with an independent multi display screen, but not on a Nexus 7.
Any ideas or directions to head would be helpful.
Any help, pretty please?
I'm stuck.
Unfortunately, I do not have a way of testing this as I only have one compatible usb webcam. However, I am inclined to think you can do more than one as the device should list them separately. Then, using some app to view the camera (I use Mirror), you should be able to switch between them. I know for Mirror, they are listed as camera 1 and camera 2 though I would imagine that you can add camera 3 and so on. The only issue is I don't know of an app which can display multiple, simultaneous cameras nor record from them. Best I can think of is manually switching between them, one at a time.
If I can get my hands on a second, cheap compatible cam, I'll test this out and post the results. I think you're biggest issue is finding something with multiple camera display.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
natesjk said:
Any help, pretty please?
I'm stuck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Technically yes! with every new camera the device would be able to open a new stream at /dev/video* , as long as you have ways to capture it through apps you can. However don't take my word for it as i am equally N00b. Let's wait for the seniors to answer
Thanks for the replies!
I just looked for Mirror app, but there a tons of mirror apps for checking your makeup. Can you tell me more specifically about the app? Who makes it?
When it comes to software and what apps to use, I've figured out different apps work with different usb webcams.
And I have seen some apps that allow you to do 2 webcams. Not sure about a split screen though. Then again, webcam specific apps (only works on 2-3 webcams).
As far as what type of camera?
Usb webcams, check. This is going on my front bumper, and if I could have more than 2, then they will be in the wheel wells. But how easy is it to make a usb webcam weatherproof? I'm sure that's a different forum.
What about CCD cameras? Would it work just the same I if I got a "bnc to usb" converter or a "rca to usb" converter? Then basically hooked the usb converter up to the hub or Nexus?
Can I use this ____ (Google: 4 Channel DVR USB 20 Video Capture Box with Audio) and directly connect it to an OTG-Y cable?
Or do the CCD cameras and the usb webcams produce different video streams (not sure if this is worded correctly)?
Will be keeping an eye on this thread for sure. I just got done with my dash mount and was looking to do the same thing. Mount a camera next to each rock light for when crawling.
Wil Badger said:
Will be keeping an eye on this thread for sure. I just got done with my dash mount and was looking to do the same thing. Mount a camera next to each rock light for when crawling.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it seems that we are at the same stage of our projects and running into the same questions!
I just mounted the nexus in the Jeep and now I'm wondering if I'm just gonna have to use a single camera on the bumper and nothing else.
I'm still curious if any of the RCA type cameras will work with a usb converter. Has anyone had any success with those?
natesjk said:
Thanks for the replies!
I just looked for Mirror app, but there a tons of mirror apps for checking your makeup. Can you tell me more specifically about the app? Who makes it?
When it comes to software and what apps to use, I've figured out different apps work with different usb webcams.
And I have seen some apps that allow you to do 2 webcams. Not sure about a split screen though. Then again, webcam specific apps (only works on 2-3 webcams).
As far as what type of camera?
Usb webcams, check. This is going on my front bumper, and if I could have more than 2, then they will be in the wheel wells. But how easy is it to make a usb webcam weatherproof? I'm sure that's a different forum.
What about CCD cameras? Would it work just the same I if I got a "bnc to usb" converter or a "rca to usb" converter? Then basically hooked the usb converter up to the hub or Nexus?
Can I use this ____ (Google: 4 Channel DVR USB 20 Video Capture Box with Audio) and directly connect it to an OTG-Y cable?
Or do the CCD cameras and the usb webcams produce different video streams (not sure if this is worded correctly)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While it was apparently designed for make up applications, this app is the best I have found so far in terms of camera rotation, camera selection, and refresh rate. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.yuvalluzon.mirror
hi
did you tried "usb camera trial" app of infinitegra? as far as i know the app supports two webcams. i didnt tried it because i have only 1 webcam.
yavuz.
aviola7x7 said:
While it was apparently designed for make up applications, this app is the best I have found so far in terms of camera rotation, camera selection, and refresh rate. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.yuvalluzon.mirror
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hugo_bjk said:
hi
did you tried "usb camera trial" app of infinitegra? as far as i know the app supports two webcams. i didnt tried it because i have only 1 webcam.
yavuz.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I will try both of these apps!
Posting this so I won't forget and maybe it will help someone else out about hardware of different types of cameras.
RCA type camera - THE EXPENSIVE ROUTE (but already waterproof?)
I did some more digging and found where someone tried the EasyCap with a webcam on a Nexus 7, and it doesn't work. I looked at a bunch on Amazon (other different brands) and they all have a CD with drivers. So that's a no go, unless I could embed the certain driver to a custom Rom (way over my head). The 4 channel EasyCap video grabber says it can only display one at a time though, if it did work.
The only Video Grabbers that work without drivers on Android (that i could find) are these two -
OPR-HD879 UVC USB AV Android Capture Card
FEBON 100 USB CVBS UVC Grabber Card
These aren't that cheap (about $50 and $80 w/o shipping).
There is also a FEBON 188, which is a SDI camera video grabber, and more expensive.
I emailed the guy who makes these, he said they will work with any Nexus that will run a regular usb webcam. He also said they should work with multiple video grabbers plugged into a USB hub, but has never tested it. (the guy said he could make one video grabber card with 4 video inputs that would display to one screen for me though, not sure how much that would cost me)
Multiple video grabbers with multiple security cameras add up fast. So this is quickly becoming the most expensive option.
USB Webcams -
Only a limited supply works with each software app. Or at least that's what the software apps say on the Google Play Store. Is this correct?
I would then need to make it waterproof to mount it outside. Maybe taking it apart and installing it in waterproof housing. But that's not this forum either.
So it seems that the best way (for me) to approach this is...
1) Use multiple security cameras or mini cameras, then scrap the nexus and use a separate video display that will show all the feeds at once.
2) Spend a lot of money on multiple grabber cards, which would be over the cost of a separate monitor.
3) Use multiple or just one USC webcam in a waterproof housing.
Ok, now onto researching more USB webcams.
natesjk said:
Posting this so I won't forget and maybe it will help someone else out about hardware of different types of cameras.
RCA type camera - THE EXPENSIVE ROUTE (but already waterproof?)
I did some more digging and found where someone tried the EasyCap with a webcam on a Nexus 7, and it doesn't work. I looked at a bunch on Amazon (other different brands) and they all have a CD with drivers. So that's a no go, unless I could embed the certain driver to a custom Rom (way over my head). The 4 channel EasyCap video grabber says it can only display one at a time though, if it did work.
The only Video Grabbers that work without drivers on Android (that i could find) are these two -
OPR-HD879 UVC USB AV Android Capture Card
FEBON 100 USB CVBS UVC Grabber Card
These aren't that cheap (about $50 and $80 w/o shipping).
There is also a FEBON 188, which is a SDI camera video grabber, and more expensive.
I emailed the guy who makes these, he said they will work with any Nexus that will run a regular usb webcam. He also said they should work with multiple video grabbers plugged into a USB hub, but has never tested it. (the guy said he could make one video grabber card with 4 video inputs that would display to one screen for me though, not sure how much that would cost me)
Multiple video grabbers with multiple security cameras add up fast. So this is quickly becoming the most expensive option.
USB Webcams -
Only a limited supply works with each software app. Or at least that's what the software apps say on the Google Play Store. Is this correct?
I would then need to make it waterproof to mount it outside. Maybe taking it apart and installing it in waterproof housing. But that's not this forum either.
So it seems that the best way (for me) to approach this is...
1) Use multiple security cameras or mini cameras, then scrap the nexus and use a separate video display that will show all the feeds at once.
2) Spend a lot of money on multiple grabber cards, which would be over the cost of a separate monitor.
3) Use multiple or just one USC webcam in a waterproof housing.
Ok, now onto researching more USB webcams.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
any succes on this?
hugo_bjk said:
any succes on this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I decided not to spend gobs of money...
I did plastidip a USB webcam, mounted it with a magnet to the inside of my bumper (it views through a slot in the bumper), got a usb extension cable and ran that through the firewall, to a Nexus 7 tablet with a OTG-Y cable (But the OTG-Y cable has seemed to not charge the tablet). Now I just run it direct when I want to use it.
I have tested it out once on the trail and it wasn't helpful. I plan on moving it from the center of the bumper to my passenger wheel well.
The webcam is to the left of the 3 lights in the center of the bumper.
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has anyone had any further success getting multiple cameras to work?
i myself have a rca rear camera installed, using easycap viewer, and also using a android head unit usb camera in conjuntion with the app usb camera by shenyao china in playstore for dashcam, but im having a dam hard time getting them to work in conjunction, as with the usb camera app, i can background record from the front usb camera, but if i then engage reverse, easycap viewer opens but just boot loops, so im now looking for maybe a hardware solution to switch cameras by external means, maybe relays, but im no electrician, and cant find any info if this would be possible, was thinking just using relays of some description to switch the power on an off, when rear camera is initialized relay will cut power to the front camera and vice versa.
Does this sound feesible?? if so what relays would i need?
was looking at some of the auto camera switching relay boxes on aliexpress, but they only accept rca connection, which is no good for my setup, front is usb and rear is rca via easycap, now i could get a rca camera for front, but then i could not use the app on the nexus 7 usb camera to background record ect ect
ive tried defaulting the dashcam to usb camera app , and the rear to easycap viewer, and like said above it just boot loops easycap viewer as the front camera is running in the background, and shows that both cameras connect and disconnect over and over
even thought about 2 easycap devices and usb cameras and i think id be in same boat, boot looping
what is very strange though is that whilst pulling my hair out trying to find a solution, i also have a wifi transmitter for rear camera, this worked poor as a rear cam due to delay/lag, BUT i could have the front camera background recording via usb camera app and also view the rear camera picture with reverse engaged without any conflict, but had to manually open the app for the wifi transmitter (wifiavin) to see the picture, which also was a pain
anyone got any ideas if a hardware solution to my problem will work, and parts and links would be fantastic
moiloon said:
has anyone had any further success getting multiple cameras to work?
i myself have a rca rear camera installed, using easycap viewer, and also using a android head unit usb camera in conjuntion with the app usb camera by shenyao china in playstore for dashcam, but im having a dam hard time getting them to work in conjunction, as with the usb camera app, i can background record from the front usb camera, but if i then engage reverse, easycap viewer opens but just boot loops, so im now looking for maybe a hardware solution to switch cameras by external means, maybe relays, but im no electrician, and cant find any info if this would be possible, was thinking just using relays of some description to switch the power on an off, when rear camera is initialized relay will cut power to the front camera and vice versa.
Does this sound feesible?? if so what relays would i need?
was looking at some of the auto camera switching relay boxes on aliexpress, but they only accept rca connection, which is no good for my setup, front is usb and rear is rca via easycap, now i could get a rca camera for front, but then i could not use the app on the nexus 7 usb camera to background record ect ect
ive tried defaulting the dashcam to usb camera app , and the rear to easycap viewer, and like said above it just boot loops easycap viewer as the front camera is running in the background, and shows that both cameras connect and disconnect over and over
even thought about 2 easycap devices and usb cameras and i think id be in same boat, boot looping
what is very strange though is that whilst pulling my hair out trying to find a solution, i also have a wifi transmitter for rear camera, this worked poor as a rear cam due to delay/lag, BUT i could have the front camera background recording via usb camera app and also view the rear camera picture with reverse engaged without any conflict, but had to manually open the app for the wifi transmitter (wifiavin) to see the picture, which also was a pain
anyone got any ideas if a hardware solution to my problem will work, and parts and links would be fantastic
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Curious on this as well. Would love the ability to create an app to open to a specific app. Both my USB webcam and frame grabber are treated similarly by the OS, meaning all the same apps can use either camera. However I've noticed my USB webcam takes priority. If I already have it plugged in and hook up the frame grabber, it still opens the camera app right to the previouslyplugged USB webcam.
I too, would rather avoid the relays, but that might be the only way.
already tried the5v relay route, worked on bench great , but not in the real situation in my car install still looping both apps, due I think to the response time of the relays switching from one device to another grrrrrr
i just downloaded from playstore dual usb camera by shenyao china, new app by developer, now I can use this app so long as it its opened 1st after my tablet loads after re awake from sleep, then selecting reverse easycap opens as expected, rear camera is viewable, then after reserse deselected, front camera is reconnected and viewable on the screen with usb dual camera app once more, works flawlessly, but its missing the auto record and send to background ect that the usb camera (not dual camera app) app can do, emailed the developer to ask if these can be added to his new app, as of yet no reply, but my fingers are crossed
edit- just had a reply from the developer and he says hes going to incorporate the missing features from the dual usb camera app, but will take a little time, happy days
I am a bit confused by your comments... you're not implying that you have to interact with the screen to switch between forward/reverse cameras, are you? That would be unacceptable for most people.
What I can tell you is I have a HIGHLY reliable solution using the relays and Tasker. Here's how I have it set up right now:
- Forward-facing/parking camera is always on. USB 2.0 IR webcam.
- When relay has UVC framegrabber/rear-view camera disconnected, Vcam2 brings up forward-facing camera by default.
- When my car hits reverse, I kill vcam2, then re-open (using rcjoycon.) This is as long as it takes for the device to be recognized and pop up with reverse view.
- After I leave reverse, I have a timer relay to wait 5 seconds to kill the framegrabber. At that same time, I kill vcam2. If I was ALREADY in vcam2 before going into reverse, I have tasker re-open the camera. Otherwise, it just falls back to the previously-open app.
It may sound difficult but it's not all that bad. Now, if I could somehow get an app that allowed me to specify a hard-coded camera mapping, I would pay good money for this.
Imagine a tasker-controllable launch of each camera view. I would enjoy this, so I could potentially record all cameras full-time, despite what I choose to view. I have a feeling the tablet would drain awfully quickly while recording, and a dedicated dash cam might be more realistic. I really do like the idea of a hidden dash cam though, that cops/criminals might not notice.
I offset the unavoidable drain on my N7 by using yet another timer circuit. When my car turns off, the tablet stays powered for 30 minutes. I detect the loss of power through my rcjoycon, which tells tasker to go into airplane mode, and gracefully shutdown what it can, then kill the rest, and turn off the screen properly. With this setup, I have no issues. I am considering installing a switch to allow the tablet to have power 24/7 for when I am away for extended periods of time. Since I leave my car on a battery tender during those trips, it could be handy to have potential connectivity to the tablet over Wi-Fi. (Just thinking out loud.)