I’m new to this and really appreciate any help.
Just recently installed the Xtrons D719AS single din head unit with android 7.1.1 in a new project jeep CJ7 I’m working on with my dad.
We installed it without using an external amp. Wired the speakers directly to the ISO. (Probably both a bad idea)
We tested using the 2 front speakers at first, everything worked and sounded great.
Then we hooked up the rear 2 speakers and tested with all 4 speakers.
It was all working and sounded great for about 10 minutes, then after raising the volume up about half way or so the sound shut off. The radio kept working with no sound. All functions on the radio work fine but not a peep of sound from any source.
We removed all power from the head unit (unplugged ISO) for about 30 minutes, removed rear speakers (tested with only 2 front), did a factory reset on the head unit with no change. Still no sound.
Did we blow something in the radio? Maybe an internal amp fuse?
If we hookup an external amp and use the RCA connections would the sound possibly work? (Bypassing the internal amp I guess).
Also this head unit does not have a blue/white wire for amp. Only a blue wire for ANT. Should the external amp go on the ANT wire or just hook it up to a Accessory/ignition line?
Also can anyone tell me what the pink wire (reverse) is for on the ISO?
Is that for the radio to know when reverse is on for the reverse camera?
I can return (to China) for repair, but would rather try and fix myself if possible.
Related
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
TheCleaner said:
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
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FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
TheCleaner said:
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
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Same problem here. I emailed joying support no help yet. I was looking for a setting in car setup that used to be in the android 6 units to tell it you wanted the external amp trigger enabled - I could not find that setting in the new Joying Android 8 unit.
sounds exactly like my issue I have posted on Joying forums and have a long chat with Candy at Joying. I am at a loss because the radio app when it comes on plays just fine via my external amp and sub. But when I switch to spotify or bluetooth audio. I get nothing. then if I mute and unmute I get audio to my front and rears but nothing to my subwoofer. I was looking for the external amp settings like I had in my 6.1 Android unit. Nothing. Dont want to send it back because it is fast and looks great. If I do send it back, I am just going to go with Seicane.
Hello all this worked for me. Try taking the top cover off the head unit and look on the board for the round sticker on top of the MCU (in my case the sticker said TP6735D v43-6686) and search the sticker info. Download only the MCU update with the same sticker info (in my case I needed TP6735D v43) after update the sound is working again. Not sure why the website MCU update takes out the sound. Good thing is, you can rollback . Hope this helps.
Playing music from USB will wake our factory amp, but radio station music does not. What would cause this? Is there a way to get radio to wake amp? I think(?) Amp Cont wire is unconnected.
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
Not working for me
ab1702 said:
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
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I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
jeffreydbrown said:
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
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Hey,
I have the same problem. Tried the ground loop isolators - the interference is gone but no bass at all. The ferrite filters didn't work. Does anyone have solution for this ?
Thanks
Hello, sorry for bringing back an older thread but I am currently working to fix this issue myself.
I had alternator whine to begin with and the ground loop isolators sorted that but mfilip, I have no bass at all and the sound quality isn’t all that great.
I have tried some Line-Out Converters and they did nothing but make the problem worse. I am going to get some Ferrite Cores and try them too.
The Bose system worked spot on so I know it’s capable, but something just isn’t right. However years ago I retrofitted an RNS-E in place of an Concert head unit and had this alternator whine, it turned out this was because the Bose pin was not connected correctly. Once I moved this pin to the correct location it worked perfectly, but I can’t seem to understand what to do with this pin with the android head unit as there is no where for it to go?
Probably u have heard this already before.
Recently puchased an Aycetry PX6 with DSP HU unit but looks like it's a Wondefoo actually that had a really rough start in the beginning.
Seller told me beforehand that I'll need some adapter to power my half bose system(I didnt really understand this why cause I saw a low of videos with HU's that could power an Audi amp), then when the unit arrived it didnt want to start at all until a car electrician moved a cable to a different pin and reconnected a blackplug into the second one(pictures below)(ACC).
The only thing that remains now is the rear speakers who's volume sounds 30-35% or so lower.
I noticed that if my engine is OFF I dont really have good radio signal. The blue wire that powers the radio antena only has 11.5 V(maybe) in this state. Once I turn ON the engine the blue wire of the radio antena has 13.5V and I have very good radio signal.
I tought something similar is the problem with the rear speakers as well so I measured the blue/white wire that connects to the white cable in the iso harness which should power the amp and in both states of the engine, on or off, I have 13.5V.
So I'm not sure what exactly is the problem here. The seller did offer me some adapter for 10 USD but if the blue/white wire that goes to the white wire in the iso harness already has 13.5V then where exactly is the problem. Or does my amp need more V's?
Please offer some suggetions here.
The unit really sounds good, made a bunch of video upgrading my 1DIN cage to a 2DIN cage and would like to close this matter so I may finish editing my videos.
Rear speakers playing as loud as front speakers will destroy your stereo stage.
So if you are serious about sound guality you want your rear speaker at low volume.
13.5V should not cause any problems. But I would definitely not power any amp from the head unit. Car amps normally have a "remote" signal input that doesn't really pull any power but tells the amp to turn on. Car amps draws a lot of current through a heavy gauge wire directly from the battery.
So I am pretty sure the "amp wire" from your head unit is designed as a remote signal telling the amp to turn on.
Bad things are likely to happen if you draw any significant power through the tiny amp remote wire so I would check how the amp was powered with the OEM headunit and use the OEM power wire. Alternatively you could run a new heavy gauge wire directly from battery to your amps power input.
You could install a simple NO relay to solve the low antenna voltage with engine of problem.
Thank you for your answer.
With the original cd-player front and rear speaker had the same volume. So I guess the audio system was designed to work this way.
However, new HU has a different design which was clear from the start since I had troubles event starting it up and now I must find some way to overcome it.
I was hoping to find someone else that had similar issues.
The low antenna voltage while engine is OFF is not a problem for me. Mostly I listen to music and rarely radio and since the car is ON doesn't really matter.
Hello,
I have Android head unit for Peugeot 407, it's PX5 and running on Android 9.0. Issue I'm having for some time is that I have seperate amp and sub attached to it. I have taken 12V signal to turn it on from head unit's I think antenna or something that gave out 12V whenever it was turned on. I sometimes play music louder and after some time subwoofer just cuts off and it remains playing on normal car speakers. I checked already if maybe amp overheats but it doesn't as when I restart the unit (turn car off then on) the signal is back on and it can play again for some time before it cutsoff again. Also other interesting thing is that my rear speakers are not working at all on head unit... the weren't working for quite a long while, not sure if they have correct wiring on that adapter that comes with it to plug it to car. I was thinking of bridging the front and rear speakers together since I don't want them not playing as i've bought them new after my factory ones rotted out. They were working when I had my factory radio in few years back.
Hi Guys,
A while back, I purchased the T10 unit from Srnubi. It worked perfectly for day 1. All speakers working, subwoofer was loud, everything was great. I came back to the car the next day and there was 0 subwoofer! Nothing was changed, everything normal so I started trouble shooting and I testing turning the bass up on the DSP to max, only then I could very faintly hear the Sub working. I figured I would try to reset the unit in hopes that it would work but now I have a factory android head unit with no running software (except the android auto and carplay software) and still next to no subwoofer output. This lead me to believe that the subwoofer out RCA is not working. I tested all RCA's and they're all very faint (I'm running the speakers from an amp which is connected to the head units speaker wire as the chanels). Has anyone had this issue before and is there a way I can fix the RCA Output without opening up the headunit and looking for faults on the board? And how do I install the firmware that Srnubi has sent through? They've completely stopped replying to me and didn't provide any instruction, worst part is they waited until my 15 days was over to stop replying and now I can't raise a dispute on AliExpress.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Cheers!
rorschach_96 said:
Hi Guys,
A while back, I purchased the T10 unit from Srnubi. It worked perfectly for day 1. All speakers working, subwoofer was loud, everything was great. I came back to the car the next day and there was 0 subwoofer! Nothing was changed, everything normal so I started trouble shooting and I testing turning the bass up on the DSP to max, only then I could very faintly hear the Sub working. I figured I would try to reset the unit in hopes that it would work but now I have a factory android head unit with no running software (except the android auto and carplay software) and still next to no subwoofer output. This lead me to believe that the subwoofer out RCA is not working. I tested all RCA's and they're all very faint (I'm running the speakers from an amp which is connected to the head units speaker wire as the chanels). Has anyone had this issue before and is there a way I can fix the RCA Output without opening up the headunit and looking for faults on the board? And how do I install the firmware that Srnubi has sent through? They've completely stopped replying to me and didn't provide any instruction, worst part is they waited until my 15 days was over to stop replying and now I can't raise a dispute on AliExpress.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Cheers!
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DSP output to subwoofer has probably burned (regulator voltage chip inside on board), must be replaced.