Related
But a few questions/complaints.
1) NO 3.5mm jack???? this is the only sole reason stopping me from buying this phone
2) I do not like phones with styluses. I've watched some reviews and I'm kinda iffy on the touch keyboard. What are your experiences with the keyboard and in landscape mode? Also, could I take out the stylus and just not bring it in the phone?
3) I like the TouchFlo3D interface; is there a way to get Windows Live Messenger on one of the panels in the bar?
I want it so that my bar is:
Main - Contacts - Mail - E-Mail - Messenger - Calendar - Media - Photos - Internet - Options
To be honest, it really is only the fact that there is no standard headphone jack is what bothers me. Can anyone say anything to compensate for this?
Why would a multimedia smartphone not have a standard earphone jack??
1. Wired headphones are soooo 2005. It seems a rather trivial reason not to get a phone, but then, I almost didn't get it because it doesn't have a place from which to hang a phone strap. But if it's that critical, it does come with an adapter. If you use it in your car, you could just leave the adapter there.
2. TouchFlo is pretty comprehensive. You can do 90% of functions without a stylus, and the few you might need it for are things like deep Winmo settings you'll do when you first get it then forget about it. Some older software requires a stylus, so it's good to have one as a backup. Sometimes, it's good to draw.
3. I've not seen anything that can change the tabs beyond what it comes with out of the box.
I use a SE HBH 970 Bluetooth, no need to wire up my ears and the phone. Besides, there are 3.5mm adapters you can buy (not from HTC but they work).
A screen keyboard can obviously never beat a real one, if typing is all you care about you definately should consider another phone. But the lack of keyboard is a trade-off for small size, so I can live with that.
Another reason to get the D2 is because of its monstrous screen resolution, 480 x 800 pixels. Very few other phones can beat that, not even the HTC Hero and the Iphone which both have 320 x 480.
I've never used the stylus on my TD2. As for the keyboard, its decent. Auto correction is pretty good, so it almost makes up for not having a real keyboard
I came from a Fuze/Touch Pro... and I don't miss the keyboard at all. Actually the keyboard is quite amazing. I never really used with the SIP keyboard with my Fuze and when I did I never used eT9. Once the AT&T Pure rom leaked I used its keyboard on my Fuze and wow wow wow.
I can type faster on my SIP keyboard then my old hardware keyboard. It allows very sloppy typing and very good at determining what your after.
The screen is nice. Coming from a 2.8 VGA screen I can appriciate a 3.2 WVGA screen.
Size is awesome. Phone feels really good in my hands. Has a good sturdy feel to it, unlike the sliding keyboard of the TouchPro. It's also pretty heavy, feels good. I was showing it off to my friends that have a Samsung Eternity and an LG "something"... both physically similar to the Diamond2 (all touchscreen). They were light and cheap plastic feeling. My friends even said my phone felt good.
Camera is sweet. Change the White Balance to Incandesant and the ISO to 800. Takes great pics. Seems to have a better shutter response then my Fuze. I hardly get motion blurs anymore. 5MP is awesome too. If you lowered to 3MP you'd probably get an even better response time.
Phone feels fast. Might be some of the newer WM6.5.1 builds I'm cooking up, but even the stock rom felt great.
If you're worried about a headphone jack... check out the CDMA US version. Supposedly both Sprint and Version both have build in headphone jacks. Supposedly you can unlock the GSM frequencies on the Sprint version, flash a GSM radio, and jump on AT&T/T-Mobile (US bands).
The only time I use my stylus is to reset the phone into bootloader mode to flash a new rom. The stylus is snug and well blended in. I'd leave it in there though so you don't have a hole.
The only thing I dislike about my AT&T Pure is that there is a flap over the USB connector and gets in the way of plugging cables in. I think all other models have exposed jacks. Oh I guess the microUSB could be accessible without removing the battery, but how often do you seriously remove the microSD card?
I found out today that the Diamond 2 lacks the proximity sensor of the Touch Pro2. No big deal but I was under the impression it had one.
thanks for the reply guys I want this phone even more now.
I guess my only gripe IS the missing standard headphone jack.
player911 said:
If you're worried about a headphone jack... check out the CDMA US version. Supposedly both Sprint and Version both have build in headphone jacks. Supposedly you can unlock the GSM frequencies on the Sprint version, flash a GSM radio, and jump on AT&T/T-Mobile (US bands).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As in the actual phone/models will have the 3.5mm jack???
I have the htc original phone, and it does not have a 3.5mm jack. There are some accessories that will give you the ability to connect 3.5mm earphones, I believe the htc yc a300 works. I'm not sure if that's what you want though.
If you have a problem with not having a 3.5mm jack try this: http://cgi.ebay.com/3-5mm-Headphone...Accessories?hash=item43991f0358#ht_1399wt_939
Its tiny and barely noticeable and it works great! Just get remove the weird keychain thing and you won't even notice it.
thanks guys
I have decided i will be getting this phone, and everything you guys have said have compensated for each of my problems:
Stylus problem: I'll learn to live with the fact that there is a stylus IN my phone; or i'll take it out.
TouchFlo3D: I love the interface, and i've seen the preview with WM 6.5 with it in color, it looks AMAZING.
3.5mm jack: i still gotta issue with this, but i think i can live with using just its mini usb earphones, or carry that small adapter supreme_one333 suggested.
If you guys want to say anything more comforting, be my guest hehe
The lack of a 3.5mm jack was my only issue at first. But Bluetooth audio is so good on the TD2 together with a Sony HBH-DS200 stick, I never want to go back to a wired music player. You can leave the Bluetooth enabled all the time, just switch on the Sony and it connects automatically. It's even easier than plugging in earphones! Caution: Some Bluetooth devices don't connect automatically. If you get a Sony, it should.
The only vital thing to do is raise the Bluetooth A2DP settings from the standard (crap) settings. Either hack the registry or use one of the free configuration tools. I've got "bitpool" min and max up to 85 and it sounds amazingly good. If the Sony stick is connected to a proper hi-fi, it's nearly as good as a CD! Seriously, you won't miss the 3.5 jack at all.
Regarding the stylus, look at it as a bonus for doing fine work. If you had an iPhone (or any capacitative screen model) you wouldn't have that option. It's a plus point, not a minus. As others have pointed out, most of the time you don't need it anyway.
Hope you enjoy the TD2 as much as I enjoy mine
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I managed to find an E46 SoFIA chip, 2GB RAM, 32GB Flash by Joying, JY-BL121N2 $309
It looks like they are using the old fascia as it has a DVD slot and states the buttons don't work.
Does anybody know which MTC this will be (I have asked but no reply)?
if it is like the 8 inch universal I have, it will not be MTC at all, it will have a super long MCU name, but no mention of MTC, and ends in "Newlap"
Blaze Falconburger said:
I managed to find an E46 SoFIA chip, 2GB RAM, 32GB Flash by Joying, JY-BL121N2 $309
It looks like they are using the old fascia as it has a DVD slot and states the buttons don't work.
Does anybody know which MTC this will be (I have asked but no reply)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Joying units are NOT MTC.
The Joying unit will have an FYT5009 SoM.
Thanks for the help all, ordered will give feedback when I've set it up. Ive done over a month of no music now so almost anything is welcome. Luckily ive been on the train a lot so haven't had to endure the sweet diesel clatter for too long each day!
Any Feedback on this unit? Interested to buy one of these for my E53 X5
Saiyajin said:
Any Feedback on this unit? Interested to buy one of these for my E53 X5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one for my E46
What do you want to know?
I'm happy with it, run mostly Waze, and spotify in online/offline mode.
My E46 has one FAKRA connector to the vehicle harness, the provided adapter is a two FAKRA system to the unit with a blue 12V wire (ANT power). This is for older vehicles, with an older antenna amplifier that needs 12V from the radio. connecting the wrong of the identical FAKRA connectors and you have 12V sent back to the amplifier which might destroy it.... I measured so that I connected the right FAKRA connector and did not use the blue 12V cable. Still I have terrible radio reception! So I ordered an extra ANT-208 antenna amplifier, Ill see if it makes a difference when it turns up.
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And I also ordered a single FAKRA to ISO cable:
Will let you know if i get some better reception with the ANT-208.
BT works good, except sometimes the other person on the call don't hear me well on the external mic, i think it is just noise from the road.
BT tethering does not work out of the box as BT settings are removed from settings.apk, I will replace the APK with a ASOP built one for BT tethering.
totaltmega said:
This is for older vehicles, with an older antenna amplifier that needs 12V from the radio. connecting the wrong of the identical FAKRA connectors and you have 12V sent back to the amplifier which might destroy it.... I measured so that I connected the right FAKRA connector and did not use the blue 12V cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So wait - if I connect the blue wire to the cables, and connect the wrong FAKRA connector (I actually tried both!) I will destroy my antenna amplifier because it's feeding in a 12V power supply? I thought, that the blue cable is for transmitting the radio signal back to the headunit. How is the signal supposed to go back otherwise? I don't have any other connectors in the front - the antenna cable including it's FAKRA style connector is in the trunk.
Please beware that the antenna amplifier in our E46 car, normaly starts automatically. Look at the diagram, pin 16 uses a 12 volts signal to you're antenna amplifier. what you could do is to take out pin 16 out of the pin connector and connect it directly with the blue wire of the radio or take a piece of wire and make a bridge from pin 16 to the 12 volt on pin 5. Otherwise, a bad reception could be caused by bad contacts with the antenna in the rear window by dust or moist, try to clean it with dry air (like for pc's) if nothing works you have to replace the antenna amplifier.
https://i.imgur.com/E1uY9Ye.jpg
Good luck
I also tried the blue wire and the "wrong" fakra connector connected, sending only 12v back to the amp, no signal. But I tested the OEM radio after and it worked so I didn't break the antenna amplifier fortunately.
I left the pin 16 as it is for 12v back to the antenna amp via the "external speaker amp power output", brown/white if I remember correctly that is connected to pin 16. I measured it under load and it was 13V so no need to re pin it to use the blue wire instead which has more current out. I could also hear that the signal was cut off when i disabled AMP Power in the settings menu, so the power to the antenna amp works as it should, but not enough sensitivity in this radio, therefore I'm waiting for the ANT-208.
totaltmega said:
I also tried the blue wire and the "wrong" fakra connector connected, sending only 12v back to the amp, no signal. But I tested the OEM radio after and it worked so I didn't break the antenna amplifier fortunately.
I left the pin 16 as it is for 12v back to the antenna amp via the "external speaker amp power output", brown/white if I remember correctly that is connected to pin 16. I measured it under load and it was 13V so no need to re pin it to use the blue wire instead which has more current out. I could also hear that the signal was cut off when i disabled AMP Power in the settings menu, so the power to the antenna amp works as it should, but not enough sensitivity in this radio, therefore I'm waiting for the ANT-208.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I've understood we still need to connect this big clunky metall antenna plug into the headunit - right? If that's the case I'm afraid I have a problem. I had to buy the 5m extension harness, since my X5 had the factory NavSat which has all the original connectors in the trunk, under the spare tire. Even though I have the antenna adapter with the FAKRA plugs, I have no way to get that big metall connector to the headunit in the front.
Saiyajin said:
From what I've understood we still need to connect this big clunky metall antenna plug into the headunit - right? If that's the case I'm afraid I have a problem. I had to buy the 5m extension harness, since my X5 had the factory NavSat which has all the original connectors in the trunk, under the spare tire. Even though I have the antenna adapter with the FAKRA plugs, I have no way to get that big metall connector to the headunit in the front.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like you have to route a long fakra extention cable all the way to the front, or try to fit a small antenna somewhere in the front.
totaltmega said:
Looks like you have to route a long fakra extention cable all the way to the front, or try to fit a small antenna somewhere in the front.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So - to sum up. Joying fu**ed up and forgot to include an antenna cable in their 5 m extension cable. Also: after 3 mail going back and forth with the joying support, they just simply stopped responding to my questions. Doesn't look like they're interested in resolving the issue. Probably because they realized that they fu**ed up. :silly:
I got the ANT-208 and I have better reception now but its not as good as stock radio.
Another issue I have:
Got the rear camera in the mail but the Joying does not recognize when I'm in reverse. There is a orange cable going to the CAN Box that should trigger a 12V signal on the orange cable when in reverse. I tested to add 12V manually with the CAN Box disconnected and it triggered.
Does your radio trigger a black screen when in reverse?
Does BMW IBus even have the reversing command for CAN Box to listen too?
Waiting for support from Joying, hoping they have some CAN Box upgrade for me, else I have to cut the orange wire and trigger it from the reversing lights...
[Does BMW IBus even have the reversing command for CAN Box to listen too?
I have a Ownice C200 and have a 325ci with a SMG gearbox, if i put the gearbox in drive, the screen went black, when i put it in neutral the screen came back on, if i put in reverse it get a black screen again. I contacted Ownice and had to cut the pink wire on the canbus and the problem was solved. So yes, it could be that your canbus thinks it had to go in reversing mode if it's a SMG or automatic grearbox.
Flemischguy said:
[Does BMW IBus even have the reversing command for CAN Box to listen too?
I have a Ownice C200 and have a 325ci with a SMG gearbox, if i put the gearbox in drive, the screen went black, when i put it in neutral the screen came back on, if i put in reverse it get a black screen again. I contacted Ownice and had to cut the pink wire on the canbus and the problem was solved. So yes, it could be that your canbus thinks it had to go in reversing mode if it's a SMG or automatic grearbox.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know, hope there is one for manual gearbox as well.
I eventually received my unit and have had it in now for a few weeks - coming from an MTCB it is much better - audio quality is actually pretty decent, way better than the MTCB (I only have uprated speakers, no external amp or sub), and the speed of the unit to boot and in operation is lightning fast in comparison.
I'm using PowerAmp and the Folder view with a USB disk with around 300GB of MP3s on, which only required the single USB connection to power it, not an additional one. It catalogs it way quicker than the MTCB used to - I don't use the library view, that just doesn't work for me. I mounted the hard disk in the glove box on some velcro and ran the cable through to the head unit, very easy.
I mostly use Waze for navigation, or Google Maps or the installed iGO - all work well, though I haven't used them in too much depth
Bluetooth - works for phone calls, I've not tried audio or OBD adapters over it
FM - I plugged it in as reception is bad here so I can't listen to anything when moving as it keeps cutting in and out, but I haven't even tested it works - I do remember seeing the 2 connectors on the back of the head unit, I didn't realise they were different. I'll try later and see what I've broken
Steering wheel controls worked out the box perfectly
I am considering adding a DAB adapter to give some kind of radio ability
Niggles
I'm not sure if the radio always properly hibernates. I think the value in the menu is set to 10 minutes, but plenty of times I have come back after it has been parked for 12 hours and it has done the quick resume. I've also had a random flat battery since fitting this head unit after the car was parked again for about 12 hours - totally dead, it wouldn't even crank. I never had this before, and I didn't find anything else on which would have caused it to totally drain. I haven't had it since, but it's only been in for 3-4 weeks.
Also a few times it has totally reset the settings - it's obvious when it powers on as the time is always wrong - it's nearly always 16 hours behind, the keypad touch tones are back on and the EQ has reset. I'm not sure what causes this, but at least the car has always started when this is the case.
Reversing - I don't have a reverse camera but everytime I reverse the head unit keeps switching to show a black screen with reverse lines - I couldn't see a way to fully disable this in the menu, so I probably need to remove a reverse signal wire (assuming it's not done over the can bus)
Fitting - in the UK E46 the air vent ducting behind the head unit is not parallel to the head unit - it is closer to the passenger side (left hand side as facing the head unit), leaving more room behind the right hand side. So where are the connectors? All on the left hand side, meaning everything is tight and bent at awkward angles as it comes out of the head unit.
Also - the amount of boxes and cables - I'm not sure if it's more or if everything is just bigger than the MTCB I had (which also had separate can bus box), but it was a very tight fit and took ages to route things as best I could to all the head unit to eventually seat all the way in. Fiddly, but possible
Blaze Falconburger said:
Reversing - I don't have a reverse camera but everytime I reverse the head unit keeps switching to show a black screen with reverse lines - I couldn't see a way to fully disable this in the menu, so I probably need to remove a reverse signal wire (assuming it's not done over the can bus)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Disconnect the orange wire between CAN Box and Radio and you will not trigger the reverse black screen.
I have the problem that it doesn't trigger at all, seems like I need a new CAN Box. Do you have an automatic or manual transmission?
You can disable the lines but i don't think you can disable the trigger in software.
I have a manual gearbox. It is actually quite delayed in enabling it - often I've reversed into a space and just as I am stopping it decides to enable it. Ive no idea if the reverse lights are also delayed at coming on so I'm not sure if the delay is the reverse switch or the radio. But I'll disable it anyway, thanks for the clarification on the reverse wire colour.
Is it a can signal or just a high/low?
Blaze Falconburger said:
I have a manual gearbox. It is actually quite delayed in enabling it - often I've reversed into a space and just as I am stopping it decides to enable it. Ive no idea if the reverse lights are also delayed at coming on so I'm not sure if the delay is the reverse switch or the radio. But I'll disable it anyway, thanks for the clarification on the reverse wire colour.
Is it a can signal or just a high/low?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its a fully orange wire (not dual color like orange/fainted white) that goes from CAN Box to Radio and it only triggers the reverse, so you don't remove the can signals from the CAN Box att all.
I might just wire the orange wire to the break lights as it might be faster than the CAN Box. My reversing lights are instant. Good to know.
I have the same unit except for the states. I made a bigger mistake by upgrading to 6.0 on this device. If you haven't already DONT DO IT!!!! Glitchy as hell. Also if you guys know of a custom rom that can be put here, please let me know.
Just picked up what appears to be a newly designed (or redesigned) Volkswagen headunit using the Allwinner T3 Quadcore from Umecity. I didn't see any threads matching the hardware listed, so I thought I'd start a discussion thread for it. The unit I purchased is only a few centimeters deep, and seems to use several upgraded ICs (radio and amp, specifically). The images of the system indicate a hardware date of March 31st, 2017 (printed on the board), and a system date of April 10th, 2017.
Product Link: Umecity Allwinner T3
PHOTOS
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[SIZE="+1"]HARDWARE SPECS[/SIZE]
CPU: Allwinner T3 Quad-Core, 1.6GHZ
MEMORY: 2GB DDR3 / 16GB
GPU: DUAL Mali 400*400MHZ
RADIO: TDA7786 IC (Not 6624)
AMPLIFIER: TDA7851 IC (Not 7388)
[SIZE="+1"]FACTORY FIRMWARE[/SIZE]
OS: Android 6.0.1 (Marshmallow)
MCU: T5.3.19-145-10-C06101-170413, SYSTEM: V8.2.1_20170410.135936_JP1
MCU: T5.3.EQ-145-13-C06101-170417, SYSTEM: V8.2.1_20170410.135936_JP1
2017-06-21 Firmware/MCU Update
[SIZE="+1"]ADVANCED SETTINGS[/SIZE]
Extra Settings password: 123456
Developer & Factory reset password: 7890
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
This is probably one of the nicest car stereo designs I've seen. Very thin and light, with what look to be well thought out button placement for a 9" unit (capacitive buttons in the bottom bezel). The unit was well packed, and arrived in good shape with no damage. The vendor has also been super responsive and helpful.
INSTALL COMMENTARY
The unit is incredibly shallow, giving you way more space for cabling. Unfortunately, it didn't come with any documentation, or even a wiring diagram. Luckily, most of the connections are pretty obvious.
The combined the VW ISO1, and ISO2 connector harness is a nasty spaghetti cable, but manageable with some careful sorting, and zip ties. If you use CANBUS, don't connect the orange power connector to your ISO of choice. This will make the stereo not shut off when the car does.
USAGE REVIEW
Startup time: Took about 30 seconds from no power to radio on the first boot. Unit will stay in standby for up to an hour, then power down to preserve battery.
Responsiveness: Touch screen and capacitive hardware buttons are very responsive.
Display Quality: Screen is super clear and bright, with good viewing angles. Brightness and panel lights come up or down based on the headlights.
GPS: GPS found lock after only a few seconds.
Wireless: Wireless range could be stronger. That said, the unit did eventually see my home AP from the street and connected with 2 bars.
ISSUES WITH UNIT
Fender Audio: Individual audio channels are way too loud. Listening to car on volume 3-4 starts to get painful. Volume control goes up to 40 or so.
Can't install Android Auto through the Play Store directly. Will need to be side loaded.
Please post screenshots of how Waze looks on this unit.
I have an unit from them, generally happy with it but since last FW update, they made the fonts in apps smaller, i'm waiting for them to revert to previous settings...DPI/PPI, whatever..
zerozoneice said:
Please post screenshots of how Waze looks on this unit.
I have an unit from them, generally happy with it but since last FW update, they made the fonts in apps smaller, i'm waiting for them to revert to previous settings...DPI/PPI, whatever..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will do. Is your unit one of the updated models? Which system firmware date are you running? I'm curious if this is a wholly new unit, or compatible with some of the older models.
Rottgrub said:
Will do. Is your unit one of the updated models? Which system firmware date are you running? I'm curious if this is a wholly new unit, or compatible with some of the older models.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check HERE
Okay, cool. Looks like you have the earlier hardware, before the refresh. Is that a full depth unit?
Hi, how does it support steering wheel control buttons?
Updated with unbox, first impressions, and install notes.
did you get the antenna amplifier in the box or you bought on your own? that connector should clamp to the exposed end of the 12V blue wire after you take the cap off. I guess not to make an old fashioned wire knot out of it...use isolation tape anyway to cover the connection.
yes, mine is a full depth unit, but not that deep compared to others.
---------- Post added at 11:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:02 AM ----------
thanhvx said:
Hi, how does it support steering wheel control buttons?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if you have VW/Skoda/Audi and use canbus, more or less all chinese stuff recognize and use the wheel buttons out of the box.
left button block controls the unit, while right button block controls the MFD.
usually default pre-installed apps (radio/music) work perfect, volume being a global thing anyway, but some 3rd party players have probs with the fwd/rev prev/next buttons and therefore u need to script it.
zerozoneice said:
did you get the antenna amplifier in the box or you bought on your own? that connector should clamp to the exposed end of the 12V blue wire after you take the cap off. I guess not to make an old fashioned wire knot out of it...use isolation tape anyway to cover the connection.
yes, mine is a full depth unit, but not that deep compared to others.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mentioned I needed a dual pole antenna connector, so they sent the antenna amplifier with the unit. It's nicely made, but the connector kinda threw me. I verified with the vendor, and it just needs to be cut off and patched to the ANT CONT line, like I suspected.
I have to say, this vendor is totally on the ball with responses. Just wish they hadn't included this dumb ISO1/ISO2 cable. It's really messing with my OCD.
I should have some info on the running unit tomorrow with any luck.
i'm curious how do you find it compared to the 9" Joying which imho make the best units at the moment. Both functionality-wise and look of the UI.
zerozoneice said:
---------- Post added at 11:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:02 AM ----------
if you have VW/Skoda/Audi and use canbus, more or less all chinese stuff recognize and use the wheel buttons out of the box.
left button block controls the unit, while right button block controls the MFD.
usually default pre-installed apps (radio/music) work perfect, volume being a global thing anyway, but some 3rd party players have probs with the fwd/rev prev/next buttons and therefore u need to script it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank Zerozoneice!
My vehicle is outlander 2007 with Rockford Fosgate amp. I have exactly the same problem that you have mentioned. The fwd/rev and prev/next buttons are overlapped with answer and hangup buttons - I mean when I setup buttons I press answer then unit removes fwd and so on with hangup.
Im noob to swc, do you know where I can find how-to script it to solve the problem? Thank you!
Rottgrub said:
Just picked up what appears to be a newly designed (or redesigned) Volkswagen headunit using the Allwinner T3 Quadcore from Umecity. I didn't see any threads matching the hardware listed, so I thought I'd start a discussion thread for it. The unit I purchased is only a few centimeters deep, and seems to use several upgraded ICs (radio and amp, specifically). The images of the system indicate a hardware date of March 31st, 2017 (printed on the board), and a system date of April 10th, 2017.
Product Link: Umecity Allwinner T3
PHOTOS
View attachment 4148838 View attachment 4148839 View attachment 4148840
View attachment 4148841 View attachment 4148929
[SIZE="+1"]HARDWARE SPECS[/SIZE]
CPU: Allwinner T3 Quad-Core, 1.6GHZ
MEMORY: 2GB DDR3 / 16GB
GPU: DUAL Mali 400*400MHZ
RADIO: TDA7786 IC (Not 6624)
AMPLIFIER: TDA7851 IC (Not 7388)
[SIZE="+1"]FACTORY FIRMWARE[/SIZE]
OS: Android 6.0.1 (Marshmallow)
MCU: T5.3.19-145-10-C06101-170413, SYSTEM: V8.2.1_20170410.135936_JP1
[SIZE="+1"]Advanced Settings Password: 123456[/SIZE]
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
This is probably one of the nicest headunit designs I've seen. Very thin and light, with what look to be well thought out button placement for a 9" unit (capacitive buttons in the bottom bezel). The unit was well packed, and arrived in good shape with no damage. The vendor has also been super responsive and helpful.
INSTALL COMMENTARY
In theory, installing this unit should be super simple. It's incredibly shallow, giving you way more space for cabling. Also, it's a Volkswagen quadlock connector, so there shouldn't be many cables needed.
Unfortunately, I hit my first problem right out of the box. No documentation. Not even a wiring diagram to show where things get plugged in. Most of the connections are pretty obvious, but some make no sense at all since the back of the unit uses a completely custom set of ports.
Complicating this, they combined the VW ISO1, and ISO2 connectors onto the same harness. This makes for a nasty spaghetti cable where half the wires aren't used, and the rest are routed into a nasty tangle. I'll probably end up cutting the ISO2 connector off, just to keep things sane. I have requested that Umecity send a ISO1 only cable to replace this mess.
View attachment 4148910
So, the antenna power cable is pretty obvious, and connects to the "ANT CONT" lead, but WHY DOES IT HAVE THIS END ON IT? Makes me think it should plug into a molex harness of some sort. UPDATE: Got feedback from the vendor that the end should just be cut off, and connected to "ANT CONT" like I suspected.
View attachment 4148930
Will try to get the unit installed tomorrow, and update with more/better pics, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It looks very nice indeed. Please post some picture when installed and powered on and comment on radio reception , audio quality and touch responsiveness.
thanhvx said:
Thank Zerozoneice!
My vehicle is outlander 2007 with Rockford Fosgate amp. I have exactly the same problem that you have mentioned. The fwd/rev and prev/next buttons are overlapped with answer and hangup buttons - I mean when I setup buttons I press answer then unit removes fwd and so on with hangup.
Im noob to swc, do you know where I can find how-to script it to solve the problem? Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no idea myself, i remember reading about it somewhere, i'll try to find a link
if your unit was rk3066/3188, you could use the RK3066 HeadUnit app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.petrows.mtcservice&hl=en
and is important to know what headunit you have, not just the car model
Connector layout wanted
Rottgrub said:
Just picked up what appears to be a newly designed (or redesigned) Volkswagen headunit using the Allwinner T3 Quadcore from Umecity. I didn't see any threads matching the hardware listed, so I thought I'd start a discussion thread for it. The unit I purchased is only a few centimeters deep, and seems to use several upgraded ICs (radio and amp, specifically). The images of the system indicate a hardware date of March 31st, 2017 (printed on the board), and a system date of April 10th, 2017.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm interested in the same unit but with a 7" screen, it comes with an ISO cable for Toyota or one for universal use. I want the last one and asked them for the pin layout of that connector. We exchanged about 10 messages but I got no answer. They are not able or willing to provide those details. Did you get a manual with the details? If you have them can you share them with me?
I'm not able to show a pic of the unit because I'm a new user. I want the pin layout of the black connector.
I have that unit installed on my VW Tiguan 2012
Sound is okay, but there is too much high frequencies if you ask me (i have weird sensation in my ears because of that hi-hat clicks in rock/metal music. Sounds much better with club music.)
EQ is only 3 band, so you can't cut specific frequencies - only "bass" "mid" and "high".
Tried to root with KingRoot to install ViperFX and polish sound - without any success.
zerozoneice said:
i'm curious how do you find it compared to the 9" Joying which imho make the best units at the moment. Both functionality-wise and look of the UI.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the long delay in replying. After using it for a few weeks, and really getting a feel for the unit, I have to say that it stacks up well against the Joying. Both units are quick, and have a smooth interface. I think the default UI in all of these units looks like crap. One of the first things I do is swap to a custom launcher. Automate is really nice, IMHO.
Joying Pros:
Handles sleep properly when car is off. Unfortunately, the Umecity powers off after an hour or so.
Exposes more advanced controls to the user. (This can also be a con, considering some users...)
Compatible with Android Auto directly from the store. (At least when running Android 5.1.1.)
Allows you to set default volume levels for things like System, Alarm, Voice, etc.
Firmware is available, so you can futz about with the OS, and restore when you break it.
Umecity Pros:
Super small design, which makes it trivial to install, and leaves lots of room for airflow behind the unit.
Capacitive hardware controls built into the bezel.
Upgraded radio and amplifier chips, which helps reception, and audio quality.
Simplified advanced controls, which makes configuration fairly straightforward.
Firmware is unavailable, so you won't be tempted to futz about with the OS and break it. =)
Things both get wrong (Ownice C500 quad as well):
No HD Radio support in the US.
Super shiny screen surface. Should be matte to reduce glare.
Bluetooth media audio sounds terrible.
No source code released.
georgebest said:
It looks very nice indeed. Please post some picture when installed and powered on and comment on radio reception , audio quality and touch responsiveness.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get any pics of the interface that didn't look like crap. I blame my camera. That said, the unit is a perfect fit for the dash on my 2015 Beetle, so I would imagine it would be the same for any other unit that uses the same style head units. The UI, and OS, was completely smooth, with no stuttering or other slowdowns, even when running multiple applications at the same time (Automate, Google Maps, PowerAmp, etc). The screen was sharp and bright. I just wish they'd gone with a matte screen. With my convertible top down, all I see is glare. (To be fair, this was also the case with the Joying 9", Ownice C500, and even the factory units.)
As far as the radio goes, the unit picked up every station in my area immediately, and never seemed to wander or lose reception. I was even able to receive a low power college station all the way across town where it's usually just static.
Audio quality was clear, and without distortion. Though, as mentioned in the main review, I did encounter "too much volume" problems with my Fender amped vehicle. Unfortunately, while I could adjust the volume levels with a third party application, it would reset to max volume across the board every reboot.
Hardy62 said:
I have that unit installed on my VW Tiguan 2012
Sound is okay, but there is too much high frequencies if you ask me (i have weird sensation in my ears because of that hi-hat clicks in rock/metal music. Sounds much better with club music.)
EQ is only 3 band, so you can't cut specific frequencies - only "bass" "mid" and "high".
Tried to root with KingRoot to install ViperFX and polish sound - without any success.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's interesting. I didn't have any issue with too much high end. If anything, the sound was a little flat with defaults EQ settings, and I ended up bumping both the lows and highs a bit (The "rock" defaults actually sounded okay).
Do you have the factory VW audio system, or one of the OEM amplified systems (Fender/Dynaudio)?
Frank1401s said:
I'm interested in the same unit but with a 7" screen, it comes with an ISO cable for Toyota or one for universal use. I want the last one and asked them for the pin layout of that connector. We exchanged about 10 messages but I got no answer. They are not able or willing to provide those details. Did you get a manual with the details? If you have them can you share them with me?
I'm not able to show a pic of the unit because I'm a new user. I want the pin layout of the black connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, the unit didn't come with any wiring diagram, or manual, and the pin out that's usually printed on the unit is missing since the hardware is only 2" thick. Let me look at the connector. There is a chance it could line up with other units which use the same ISO connector...
So, from what I can suss out looking at the wiring harness, this is what I have. Keep in mind that this is for the VW model, and may be entirely different from the universal. Wires are labeled with my looking into the wiring harness end, 1 is top left, 16 is bottom right.
1/2 - (white&w/stripe) Front left speaker
3/4 - (grey&w/stripe) Front right speaker
5 - (Pink) Key 1
6 - (Brown) Canbus
7 - (Red) Canbus bypass +
8 - (Black) Ground
9/10 - (Purple&w/stripe) Rear right speaker
11/12 - (Green&w/stripe) Rear left speaker
13 - (Blue) Ant Cont
14 - (Green) Key 2
15 - (Orange) Canbus bypass -
16 - (Yellow) 12v ACC
Rottgrub said:
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get any pics of the interface that didn't look like crap. I blame my camera. That said, the unit is a perfect fit for the dash on my 2015 Beetle, so I would imagine it would be the same for any other unit that uses the same style head units. The UI, and OS, was completely smooth, with no stuttering or other slowdowns, even when running multiple applications at the same time (Automate, Google Maps, PowerAmp, etc). The screen was sharp and bright. I just wish they'd gone with a matte screen. With my convertible top down, all I see is glare. (To be fair, this was also the case with the Joying 9", Ownice C500, and even the factory units.)
As far as the radio goes, the unit picked up every station in my area immediately, and never seemed to wander or lose reception. I was even able to receive a low power college station all the way across town where it's usually just static.
Audio quality was clear, and without distortion. Though, as mentioned in the main review, I did encounter "too much volume" problems with my Fender amped vehicle. Unfortunately, while I could adjust the volume levels with a third party application, it would reset to max volume across the board every reboot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All in all, would you say that it's better than Joying 9" Intel sofia 2gb ??
Eonon GA-8173 for (2004-2008) Ford F-150
Android 7.1.2
Model: PX3 (1024x600 O)
MCU: MTCD_WWW_V2.59_1
CPU: RK3188 A9 Quad Core
Memory: Samsung 2Gig
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The Good: Eonon shipped it to me quickly (3 days)! Unit was new and all parts were in the box. Good looking unit, the screen is very nice, with enough brightness to see it clearly during the day. Colors are not over or under saturated. Graphics are sharp and screen has good uniformity. The outer controls work and are tight fitting, no loose knobs. The DVD works good, didn't test on the road yet for skipping. Plug-n-play wiring harness with CANBUS, (although my truck doesn't have steering wheel controls, so I eliminated it).
The Bad: The Eonon firmware was trying to cook the radio, within a few minutes the heatsink on the back was very hot and the smell it was putting of was bad. I've had this happen to cellphones before when a developer would use kernal that either was way overclocked or it just wasn't properly suited to my phone. The Eonon firmware was nice as far as UI's go, but not cutting edge. And had a few problems like the WIFI constantly disconnecting. I couldn't get a quick response from Eonon on Facebook because it was the weekend, so I downloaded another firmware which was Android 7.1.2 (sorry forget the name of the developer) everything worked and it was nice but was using the old Launcher from the Android 6 units. Downloaded Malaysk ROM and installed. Haven't customized it to my liking yet. Radio, Media Player, Music, bluetooth, and WiFi all work. Still need to put it through it's paces.
The Ugly: The sound, flat frequency response. Nothing I have done with the stock EQ helps this unit sound good. No crisp highs and no punchy lows. My old Eonon G2104 WinCE unit puts this thing to shame. The G2104 had an excellent DAC and amp. Apparently Eonon either skimped on this unit or their Firmware did some damage to the unit. Whenever bass comes through the speakers it has a background buzz like my speakers are blown. I believe they either used a cheap DAC or cheap Capacitors in the amp. I may buy two 2 Channel amps and use the Pre-Amp outs to see if it solves my sound problem. It's a shame that a unit with such potential has let me down after I got such excellent service from the WinCE unit. Does anyone know if the PX5 units have made any improvement to audio quality?
Lastly, for any of you guys that have a Android unit with the 90 degree GPS plug. My unit suddenly started buzzing, I finally tracked it down to that plug. There is a little threaded cap in the back of the GPS plug. It allows the antenna lead to be soldered onto the center probe. What happens when the GPS plug is attached to the radio tightly, that probe pushes back into the plug just enough to touch that rear cap causing it to ground out. I simply put a small piece of plastic under that cap to prevent it from grounding. Buzzing gone.
If this unit cannot be salvaged I may end up going back to a WinCE unit, Soundstream has a dual screen unit that has caught my eye. Or I may go with the Android Tablet setup. (But with that setup, I loose backup camera and over-the-air local radio) Decisions, decisions?
So I decided to void my warranty to give you guys a peak inside this HU. Found a piece of loose strand wire laying on the circuit board, that's never a good thing. It's a miracle the thing didn't short out the mainboard or the MCU. Here are pics for you technical guys to get an idea the chips they use in these these android HUs. Enjoy!
Realtek DSP (I think)
Now to cool the MCU since it has no heat sink.
This should cool the little bastard! :laugh:
View attachment 4342645
Just kidding, this is a bit more realistic. I've been waiting years to find a use for this ugly green heat sink. Glued on with 2 ton strength epoxy.
View attachment 4342654
View attachment 4342655
Now lets hope it works!
Review of the VRN-DD7HB (Soundstream dual screen HU)
Hi... I have the dual screen Soundstream head unit. I have had it for a couple months. I don't like it anymore. The home screen is plain. You can change the color scheme to monochromatic but that's it. secondly if you have it connected via Bluetooth to a phone. it automatically goes straight to the phone app. Manually tapping the home button goes to the home button, but times out to the last "app" used.
The phone app is horrible. recent calls shows random numbers. even numbers I have never called show up on it. Recent calls made doesn't show up. The contact list should at least be in alphabetical order. but nope... random numbers. even numbers that aren't in my phone like telemarketers show up. the dialer is just numbers, so you either have to scan through your contacts (and pay attention to it since its not in any specific order) or know the number by heart. Kind of defeats the purpose of keeping your attention on the road. Calls are decent, average, you can hear a person if there is a cracked window but you can also hear the wind.
The GPS I never use. The connection keeps getting lost, and the system likes to let you know. so I live in the suburbs of LA, not a lot of tall buildings, but for some reason, every 2-3 minutes, my music turns down. "GPS signal lost" and music turns up. then again, and again, and again. so now I just turned off all the alerts. so... maybe I don't have the antenna in a bad place, It is under the Gauge cluster plastic cover, I verified the connection to the HU to be tight. (plus no traffic updates, or re-routing, or proper ETA even thought it tracks your speed and lets you know if you are speeding.) GPS speed sense is OK, the speeding warning is adjustable via percentage.
Mobile link works great... correction... worked great. since the Android 8.0 update, it hasn't been working. the website only has a 7.0 update. I will install that after this "review" the MHL mobile link utilizes both Bluetooth connection and USB connection to your phone to stream. simple videos have a small skip. Busy videos are practically just blurs. it would help a lot if they can sell a USB 3.0 upgrade for it.
Sound/equalizer: it was what evs. it has some good ideas, pretty in depth controls. but for something that looks that good, it doesn't control much. Plus... listening via bluetooth... you only have a separate 10 point "media" volume control. As opposed to the regular 25 point radio volume control. meaning you can have a conversation at level 9 but you can't hear yourself think at level 10.
It was a great idea. But the software just crippled it. what it could have been and what it actually is. 2 completely different things. Lastly... The most important gripe. They show the display at shows either at an angle close to or at 30 degrees or straight. but if your head unit is above all the console controls. when the second screen is out you cannot see the bottom screen. it does have tilt control... but it goes from the current angle... and adds an extra 30-40 degrees more since it ends up trying to angle to you as if the HU was placed on the floor. adjusting the bottom screen to max tilt just puts it 15 degrees before parallel to the floor. which is pointless. so now I don't even use the second screen. if the radio space is at the top of the dash, then the HU needs to be straight (they don't tell you this). I was able to shave my dash to allow it to straighten a bit... but still doesn't work well for my car and now is not flush to my dash. They should have added a tiltable holder.
PS manual is horrible. it seems like it was written by a Chinese person who barely knows English, plus diagrams are incomplete. there are 20 connections in the harness, and only 15 described in the manual because the page ended.
I have been looking to upgrade this HU's OS to an android system. but due to the fact that its not 1 OS but 1 OS per screen that shares hardware. I don't think anyone can actually make a ROM for this. I hope someone does tho because I am starting to hate this HU.
Hello eveyone. I'm looking for a new 7" universal Android head unit. I've narrowed it down to the non-physical button model because I like the flush look. I had it narrowed down to the Atoto A6 until I found the XDA forum. I've read that the Dasaita may have a little better support and that the HA2100-V600 may be a little brighter. And now, I've found the Dasaita with 4GB of RAM. I Think this could be useful in the future.
I've spend hours reading all 84 pages of the MCU update forum that has spanned over the past 7 to 9 months. During that period, there were several reports of problems with the Dasaita Blue tooth, GPS and other things. However, the people still seem to stand behind their brand. Are the problems with the Dasaita as bad as it sounds, or is it just a few people having these problems?
I like the idea of the Atoto A6 having Dual Bluetooth. This will allow me to Pair with my phone and the OBDII adapter at the same time. None of the other head units mention this. I keep reading that these units are basically the same, so it seems that they all should be able to do this. But I don't know if they do. Any one have a Dasaita HA2100 that can verify it? Could it be an Android 7.1 feature? The Atoto also has the external wireless antenna and multiple USB outlets, one of which is 2 amp for quick phone charging.
If anyone has either of these models and wants to elaborate on what they like about it (or don't like), I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks for your help.
The Atoto is one of the few that uses a MediaTek SoC instead of a Rockchip or Intel Sofia. That means for right now, there's no community support.
I've got the 2gb touch-only version, had it since just before Christmas. It's reasonably responsive (think 2012-2013 high-end tablet/phone responsive), it gets really bright (I'm in Florida with a sunroof and non-tinted windows, never had a problem seeing the screen), colors are a bit muted but viewing angles are good. 2 second boot is true, it comes alive very fast, backup camera activates quickly.
Dual BT was the main selling point for me, and it works as advertised, phone is paired for phone/contacts/media, OBD2 is paired, and phone is can paired again for BT tethering. BT tethering works decent, there's plenty of bandwidth for running Maps/Waze while streaming Spotify, but you'll of course want to switch back to WiFi tethering/hotspot for video streaming or even installing apps from the Play Store.
The microSD card slot works well, I've use a NTFS formatted 128gb SanDisk with no issues. The "fast charge" USB connector puts out just under 2a, so it does charge quicker than most, but still no comparison to an QC 2, 3, or Power Delivery charger. That same USB port is the only USB 2.0 port, the other two USB ports (on one dongle) are USB 1.1
The combination of on-device and external microphones seems to work well enough for voice activation and calling (my callers say I sound fine, no worse than any other speakerphone). Google Assistant does NOT work on this device (or just about any tablet for that matter), but Google Now/Voice Search does work, along with OK Google voice detection. (and OK Waze detection if you're Wazing).
I've only had one crash, and that may have been a launcher problem, or a Spotify problem as much as an Atoto problem.
Audio quality is good, with a half-decent EQ, fader/balance controls, loudness. Power is lacking, so you'll want to run this through an amp.
Steering wheel interface works (though I needed both a PAC CANBUS harness/box, and at PAC SW-1 RC to make them work). Pro-tip if you go with the PAC stuff, program the SW-1 as a Pioneer, and then use the Kenwood wire (instead of the 3.5mm plug) to Key + on the A6. There's also no provision on the A6 for dual button mapping, you get one function per button (some units allow for double press or long press for more options).
Wifi reception is solid, the included remote antenna is the key to this (mine is mounted on the edge of my windshield, partially tucked under the headliner, and practically invisible.
GPS reception is also very good, I almost always get 10+ satellites and quick locks.
So far, so good.
But...the A6 has three big problems.
The first is that the distance between the outer glass screen with the touch layer, and the actual LCD is pretty wide, and that causes parallax issues, where you touch on the glass doesn't match up with the screen, especially annoying with small buttons and hamburger menus. The physical button version doesn't seem to have this issue, because the touch screen and the LCD are closer (at the cost of having the whole display inset and not flush.). If I had to do it over, I'd opt for the PB model.
The second issue is that there's always some electronic noise heard when the unit is powered up, similar to putting a mobile phone next to speakers, and it varies with CPU load and Wifi activity. You don't notice it when music is playing but if there's a pause (or you pause), there it is again. Doesn't seem to be affected by volume settings though.
The last major issue (and there's maybe a fix coming for this in the next firmware update from Atoto) is that when the device has been off for more than oh, ten minutes, when it comes back on, it automatically loads the AM/FM tuner and plays. Which is annoying enough on its own (the FM tuner app is hideous, for one thing), but for some reason, the volume from the tuner is 2x the volume of MP3, internet streaming, or BT streaming music, so if you were rocking out even just a little when you parked the car, when you get back, your eardrums will be bleeding from the FM blast. So far, nobody has figured a way to disable the FM app, it's part of the system, and tied to the MCU.
Overall, I'm not unhappy with the A6, since I went into it knowing that all the Chindroid head units are flawed...but for $179 (Lightning deal), I figured it was worth the risk.
Croak said:
The Atoto is one of the few that uses a MediaTek SoC instead of a Rockchip or Intel Sofia. That means for right now, there's no community support.
I've got the 2gb touch-only version, had it since just before Christmas. It's reasonably responsive (think 2012-2013 high-end tablet/phone responsive), it gets really bright (I'm in Florida with a sunroof and non-tinted windows, never had a problem seeing the screen), colors are a bit muted but viewing angles are good. 2 second boot is true, it comes alive very fast, backup camera activates quickly.
Dual BT was the main selling point for me, and it works as advertised, phone is paired for phone/contacts/media, OBD2 is paired, and phone is can paired again for BT tethering. BT tethering works decent, there's plenty of bandwidth for running Maps/Waze while streaming Spotify, but you'll of course want to switch back to WiFi tethering/hotspot for video streaming or even installing apps from the Play Store.
The microSD card slot works well, I've use a NTFS formatted 128gb SanDisk with no issues. The "fast charge" USB connector puts out just under 2a, so it does charge quicker than most, but still no comparison to an QC 2, 3, or Power Delivery charger. That same USB port is the only USB 2.0 port, the other two USB ports (on one dongle) are USB 1.1
The combination of on-device and external microphones seems to work well enough for voice activation and calling (my callers say I sound fine, no worse than any other speakerphone). Google Assistant does NOT work on this device (or just about any tablet for that matter), but Google Now/Voice Search does work, along with OK Google voice detection. (and OK Waze detection if you're Wazing).
I've only had one crash, and that may have been a launcher problem, or a Spotify problem as much as an Atoto problem.
Audio quality is good, with a half-decent EQ, fader/balance controls, loudness. Power is lacking, so you'll want to run this through an amp.
Steering wheel interface works (though I needed both a PAC CANBUS harness/box, and at PAC SW-1 RC to make them work). Pro-tip if you go with the PAC stuff, program the SW-1 as a Pioneer, and then use the Kenwood wire (instead of the 3.5mm plug) to Key + on the A6. There's also no provision on the A6 for dual button mapping, you get one function per button (some units allow for double press or long press for more options).
Wifi reception is solid, the included remote antenna is the key to this (mine is mounted on the edge of my windshield, partially tucked under the headliner, and practically invisible.
GPS reception is also very good, I almost always get 10+ satellites and quick locks.
So far, so good.
But...the A6 has three big problems.
The first is that the distance between the outer glass screen with the touch layer, and the actual LCD is pretty wide, and that causes parallax issues, where you touch on the glass doesn't match up with the screen, especially annoying with small buttons and hamburger menus. The physical button version doesn't seem to have this issue, because the touch screen and the LCD are closer (at the cost of having the whole display inset and not flush.). If I had to do it over, I'd opt for the PB model.
The second issue is that there's always some electronic noise heard when the unit is powered up, similar to putting a mobile phone next to speakers, and it varies with CPU load and Wifi activity. You don't notice it when music is playing but if there's a pause (or you pause), there it is again. Doesn't seem to be affected by volume settings though.
The last major issue (and there's maybe a fix coming for this in the next firmware update from Atoto) is that when the device has been off for more than oh, ten minutes, when it comes back on, it automatically loads the AM/FM tuner and plays. Which is annoying enough on its own (the FM tuner app is hideous, for one thing), but for some reason, the volume from the tuner is 2x the volume of MP3, internet streaming, or BT streaming music, so if you were rocking out even just a little when you parked the car, when you get back, your eardrums will be bleeding from the FM blast. So far, nobody has figured a way to disable the FM app, it's part of the system, and tied to the MCU.
Overall, I'm not unhappy with the A6, since I went into it knowing that all the Chindroid head units are flawed...but for $179 (Lightning deal), I figured it was worth the risk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, that is exactly the kind of information I was looking for. I had read about the radio coming on with each startup. I'm glad you said something about the touchscreen. The flush screen was one of the selling points for me, but if the actual lcd is still recessed, I may go for the PB. Prices have skyrocketed since just before Christmas.
On the Dasaita, I had asked if the 4GB HA2100-V600 they have on Aliexpress would be updated to Android 7.1 (it's currently Android 6.0). They told me that unit would not be able to run Android 7.1 because of hardware incompatibility issues. He said they had an Android 8.0 unit with 4GB RAM if I wanted to pay the Price. I didn't even ask how much because the 6.0 unit was already at the upper price range I want to spend for one of these. However, Hot Audio is saying they are working on a 8.0 upgrade for the HA2100 and it should be out any time now. Who Do I Believe? I feel pretty sure the android 6.0 unit will be upgraded since there are several other brands already running 7.1. Anybody?
Thing about the flush screen/body is that most car kits end up making the whole thing recessed anyway. PB version wouldn't have looked any worse, and it would have operated a bit better. Also, turns out the PB model is a much more recent hardware revision, released in November, whereas the touch-only model came out almost six months earlier.
Here's a shot of mine using a Schoshe double-din mounting kit.
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Does the Dasaita HA2100 have dual BT? I'm in the same position as OP - I currently have a Joying 2GB unit and it's a pain to BT tether (still not reliable after root). The Atoto A6 blog says there is a pro version coming by Feb 2018 end with "hand gestures recognition control", whatever that means. http://www.myatoto.com/index.php?m=...FjAFegQIBRAB&usg=AOvVaw0vQxQJxnoYd_2loGxiT1vf
Till then I'm looking at the Atoto A6 a61721p.
Great ATOTO using experience.
Croak said:
The Atoto is one of the few that uses a MediaTek SoC instead of a Rockchip or Intel Sofia. That means for right now, there's no community support.
I've got the 2gb touch-only version, had it since just before Christmas. It's reasonably responsive (think 2012-2013 high-end tablet/phone responsive), it gets really bright (I'm in Florida with a sunroof and non-tinted windows, never had a problem seeing the screen), colors are a bit muted but viewing angles are good. 2 second boot is true, it comes alive very fast, backup camera activates quickly.
Dual BT was the main selling point for me, and it works as advertised, phone is paired for phone/contacts/media, OBD2 is paired, and phone is can paired again for BT tethering. BT tethering works decent, there's plenty of bandwidth for running Maps/Waze while streaming Spotify, but you'll of course want to switch back to WiFi tethering/hotspot for video streaming or even installing apps from the Play Store.
The microSD card slot works well, I've use a NTFS formatted 128gb SanDisk with no issues. The "fast charge" USB connector puts out just under 2a, so it does charge quicker than most, but still no comparison to an QC 2, 3, or Power Delivery charger. That same USB port is the only USB 2.0 port, the other two USB ports (on one dongle) are USB 1.1
The combination of on-device and external microphones seems to work well enough for voice activation and calling (my callers say I sound fine, no worse than any other speakerphone). Google Assistant does NOT work on this device (or just about any tablet for that matter), but Google Now/Voice Search does work, along with OK Google voice detection. (and OK Waze detection if you're Wazing).
I've only had one crash, and that may have been a launcher problem, or a Spotify problem as much as an Atoto problem.
Audio quality is good, with a half-decent EQ, fader/balance controls, loudness. Power is lacking, so you'll want to run this through an amp.
Steering wheel interface works (though I needed both a PAC CANBUS harness/box, and at PAC SW-1 RC to make them work). Pro-tip if you go with the PAC stuff, program the SW-1 as a Pioneer, and then use the Kenwood wire (instead of the 3.5mm plug) to Key + on the A6. There's also no provision on the A6 for dual button mapping, you get one function per button (some units allow for double press or long press for more options).
Wifi reception is solid, the included remote antenna is the key to this (mine is mounted on the edge of my windshield, partially tucked under the headliner, and practically invisible.
GPS reception is also very good, I almost always get 10+ satellites and quick locks.
So far, so good.
But...the A6 has three big problems.
The first is that the distance between the outer glass screen with the touch layer, and the actual LCD is pretty wide, and that causes parallax issues, where you touch on the glass doesn't match up with the screen, especially annoying with small buttons and hamburger menus. The physical button version doesn't seem to have this issue, because the touch screen and the LCD are closer (at the cost of having the whole display inset and not flush.). If I had to do it over, I'd opt for the PB model.
The second issue is that there's always some electronic noise heard when the unit is powered up, similar to putting a mobile phone next to speakers, and it varies with CPU load and Wifi activity. You don't notice it when music is playing but if there's a pause (or you pause), there it is again. Doesn't seem to be affected by volume settings though.
The last major issue (and there's maybe a fix coming for this in the next firmware update from Atoto) is that when the device has been off for more than oh, ten minutes, when it comes back on, it automatically loads the AM/FM tuner and plays. Which is annoying enough on its own (the FM tuner app is hideous, for one thing), but for some reason, the volume from the tuner is 2x the volume of MP3, internet streaming, or BT streaming music, so if you were rocking out even just a little when you parked the car, when you get back, your eardrums will be bleeding from the FM blast. So far, nobody has figured a way to disable the FM app, it's part of the system, and tied to the MCU.
Overall, I'm not unhappy with the A6, since I went into it knowing that all the Chindroid head units are flawed...but for $179 (Lightning deal), I figured it was worth the risk.
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Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for your honest reivew. After find your honest using feedback, I placed the Order for one ATOTO product: A62721PB. It seems like their products is hot-sale. There are just left 3 to sell now. So lucky for me to find this great Chinese head unit. However, I am not so lucky enough to catch their lightning deal. So I paid $249.:crying::crying::crying:
Anyway, I am very happy with ATOTO product. I noticed that you pointed out an using issue: radio automatically turn on. Based on my experience, please make sure you exit our radio, turn off the car then turn on car, the radio will not showing up. If the radio still turning on after the car is on, please open AUX then exit it. I am sure you will solve the problem.
I also have the same problem. I know it is a nuisance. So I registered on their support website and found this way. Hope it will help you. What's more, I have sent mail to their support team, they feedback to me the same method within 1 hours. I had to say: They have a great and professional support team. I will get another ATOTO product for my GF.
bluemind497 said:
Thanks a lot for your honest reivew. After find your honest using feedback, I placed the Order for one ATOTO product: A62721PB. It seems like their products is hot-sale. There are just left 3 to sell now. So lucky for me to find this great Chinese head unit. However, I am not so lucky enough to catch their lightning deal. So I paid $249.:crying::crying::crying:
Anyway, I am very happy with ATOTO product. I noticed that you pointed out an using issue: radio automatically turn on. Based on my experience, please make sure you exit our radio, turn off the car then turn on car, the radio will not showing up. If the radio still turning on after the car is on, please open AUX then exit it. I am sure you will solve the problem.
I also have the same problem. I know it is a nuisance. So I registered on their support website and found this way. Hope it will help you. What's more, I have sent mail to their support team, they feedback to me the same method within 1 hours. I had to say: They have a great and professional support team. I will get another ATOTO product for my GF.
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Click to collapse
The trick with switching to AUX and exiting does not work on my unit.
But I've found a fix and it will work 100% of the time. I'm arranging a return of the Atoto unit with Amazon. The radio issue is not something I can live with, having to do half a dozen button presses when starting the car, I may as well use a mobile phone.
Also, if the radio does not get turned on at startup, the MCU isn't initialized, which means there's no audio, no backup camera, etc. My return period expires in a week, and I have no faith that Atoto will fix this before then, so I'm returning it, and finding a different unit. I'll take a look at Atoto again with their next generation of units, they're on the right track, but they're not there yet.
There is supposed to be a "pro" version coming out before March, which will include hand gestures control. ATOTO support says you'll be able to control the unit without touching the screen/steering wheel. I'm guessing the price for the current premium version will go down so I'm going to wait. If you find another unit with dial Bluetooth or easy tethering let us know pls.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
car_dude_123 said:
There is supposed to be a "pro" version coming out before March, which will include hand gestures control. ATOTO support says you'll be able to control the unit without touching the screen/steering wheel. I'm guessing the price for the current premium version will go down so I'm going to wait. If you find another unit with dial Bluetooth or easy tethering let us know pls.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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Sounds great! I will buy the next version. Hope they can give me some discounts! Let's waiting!
Just got an email from ATOTO - new model coming in March. I'm waiting...
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
I own a Dasaita HA2100A-V600.
I own a Dasaita HA2100A-V600. It differs from the HA2100-V600. It has a capacitive home button, lacks a micro sd slot, and is 178mm wide. The dasaita is not compatible with Bluetooth game pads nor my obdlink mx obd2 scanner. I suspect that the ATOTO A6 is compatible with these BT accessories. I had to use the much cheaper and faster usb obdlink sx on my dasaita. Honestly, if dasaita makes a direct fit product for your car, it is more economical than getting a dash kit, canbus to analog converter for reverse trigger and (retained) accessory power, in addition to steering wheel control adapter. Dasaita units have built in canbus capabilities where ATOTO units do not. Dasaita doesn't make a direct fit for the Ford Focus MK3. If I were to do it all over again. I would've gone with the Atoto unit from the start, only because fitment of an ATOTO 173mm unit has to be easier than the larger Dasaita units.
Croak said:
The Atoto is one of the few that uses a MediaTek SoC instead of a Rockchip or Intel Sofia. That means for right now, there's no community support.
But...the A6 has three big problems.
The first is that the distance between the outer glass screen with the touch layer, and the actual LCD is pretty wide, and that causes parallax issues, where you touch on the glass doesn't match up with the screen, especially annoying with small buttons and hamburger menus. The physical button version doesn't seem to have this issue, because the touch screen and the LCD are closer (at the cost of having the whole display inset and not flush.). If I had to do it over, I'd opt for the PB model.
The second issue is that there's always some electronic noise heard when the unit is powered up, similar to putting a mobile phone next to speakers, and it varies with CPU load and Wifi activity. You don't notice it when music is playing but if there's a pause (or you pause), there it is again. Doesn't seem to be affected by volume settings though.
The last major issue (and there's maybe a fix coming for this in the next firmware update from Atoto) is that when the device has been off for more than oh, ten minutes, when it comes back on, it automatically loads the AM/FM tuner and plays. Which is annoying enough on its own (the FM tuner app is hideous, for one thing), but for some reason, the volume from the tuner is 2x the volume of MP3, internet streaming, or BT streaming music, so if you were rocking out even just a little when you parked the car, when you get back, your eardrums will be bleeding from the FM blast. So far, nobody has figured a way to disable the FM app, it's part of the system, and tied to the MCU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, full root and a custom recovery is available for this now. As for custom roms and stuff, nothing for that right now. My unit is fully rooted but I have not yet installed TWRP custom recovery as its not something I am going to be using at the moment. FlashFire is working just fine for my needs.
I will address your issues number 2 and number 3.
As for the "electrical noise" when powered up or when no sound is present, I am not experiencing that what so ever. Make sure you have good solid ground. If you are using a PAC device (You mentioned that earlier about the steering wheel controls), make sure its not the PAC device its self causing the problem. I am using the PAC RP5-GM11 in my 2004 Chevy Tahoe and there is zero electrical noise/hiss what so ever.
As for the radio always turning on, that I will agree with, it is super annoying as is the SD card or anything other than the radio, playing at what seem like half volume that the radio plays at. The best way to stop the radio from playing when you first turn on your car/power, is to turn off the head unit with the power button before you remove power/turn off your key. Now when you turn the car back on, the head unit is off and you will have to turn it back on. But be ready to turn the volume down if you had it up pretty high when you turned off the unit.
Myself, other than the clunky factory UI/Launcher and the radio issue I mentioned and the quoted post, that are my only real issues but far from deal breakers for me. The launcher is easy, just install a different one. And now that my unit is rooted, its just a little bit better for me. Overall, after 2 months now, I am very happy with mine so far.
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well. Any ideas or recommendations?
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.
Any update? How is the unit after 6 months? Is the radio turn off problem better now?
Blakestr said:
Any update? How is the unit after 6 months? Is the radio turn off problem better now?
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Click to collapse
Firmware update in early February made it a tiny bit less annoying, in that the "Aux trick" works more reliably. But you still have to frequently manually select AUX after starting the car, or you get either no audio using speaker wire output or muted audio with no onboard controls (fader/balance, EQ, SWC etc) if using RCA outputs to an external amp. There's been no firmware updates since then.
Also, on mine, the backup camera stopped working in late January. Atoto sent me a replacement camera/harness, still not working. Reverse trigger works (it mutes audio when in reverse) and the dedicated camera power and ground connections in my car meter out correct, but it gets no signal from the camera...even took both cameras to an audio shop, and they both work on the shop's test devices, so it's something in the input side of the Atoto that went bad. And yes, I installed a relay on the PAC harness, so it's not the 1 amp limitation that's causing the problem.
Updating apps from the Play Store is painfully slow...it's not a bandwidth issue, it's once the app update has finished downloading, it takes many, many minutes for the update to process. Things like Waze or Maps can take 20 minutes to update AFTER downloading.
Finally, the biggest reason I went with the A6 in the first place, dual Bluetooth for tethering, is a feature I ended up not using much after the first month, because I have an in-car hotspot now, and don't need to tether my phone for data.
But other than that, it's working mostly fine for what I use it for, which is Waze, MP3, Spotify, with CarWebGuru as the launcher. And, it only cost me $179 for the unit itself. Still looking for that "great" double-din universal Android head unit, but at this point, I'm probably just going to go with a 2018 model major brand head unit with capacitive display and Wireless Android Auto (the Alpine HALO9 unit looks very interesting).
As soon as I saw MediaTek.....
Keep away.
Perfect, thanks for this. I ordered the 2 gig Physical button, 239 minus the 15 clipon off amazon. I also ordered the steer wheeling control (even though I don't really like the way it looks but I care more that it's made and seems to work for it), a highly rated backup camera for $25 and the Atoto Bluetooth OBD2 reader.
This is for a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, which I already have the Scorsche DoubleDin kit and the Metric Harness.
I'm particularly excited because there has always been this huge gap in tech between my home life and my car. I've spent the last 3 years using a bluetooth headset as my audio source from my phone. (audiobooks mainly, physical control buttons on headset). Though I could never get my S7 Edge to root I should be able to use one of the paid tethering apps of the playstore hopefully. (I want faster speeds than BT tether - I "watch" a lot of information videos on Youtube that are more or less audio productions.
Always use a PX cpu. never go for mediatek or allwinner unless you cannot fint a PX unit.