Galaxy note tab 10.1 GT-N801X Dead battery fix - Removal and hardwired - Galaxy Note 10.1 General

First time poster. Long time lurker. I'm hoping to add something useful to the community.
I have had my galaxy note 10.1 GT-N801X since launch but as of recently I have been struggling to find a use for it. A couple years ago it started to feel slow and clunky and then I started having problems with the battery. It has then been sitting in a box refusing to boot up until now. I found a couple places that sold replacement batteries online and the price wasn't too bad. Replacing the battery would have been a viable option however I have issues that the device cannot usually be used while charging and it takes a long time to fully charge. Even when the tablet was new I remember that battery live wasn't that great when using it intensively. For me the novelty of the pen had worn off, portability was less of a concern (As I have my phone for that), and the device feels slow and clunky and the screen is not that great by today's standards.
So I decided to fix it as cheaply as possible and design it to be timer for my home gym where it could also play YouTube videos and stream content from Plex web and Netflix if I wanted to. It would be close to an outlet at all times and I would not like to deal with the hassle of dead batteries and not being able to use it while charging. I would not be using the SPEN and I would not be using it for close up viewing tasks. So i decided to remove the old dead battery and hardwire in a plug.
*** CONTINUE AT YOUR OWN RISK *** I AM NOT AN EXPERT AND I AM GENUINELY SURPRISED SOMETHING SO SIMPLE WORKED ***
1. My first step was to open up the tablet and remove the old battery. It wasn't very hard and their are quite a few guides out there already. My only advice is to be careful when removing the connectors. After a couple years some of them have become quite delicate.
2. My next step was to get all of the parts prepared. I had an old 5V USB charging block that can output up to 2A. I had an old USB to micro USB cable that only had 2 wires on the inside. I cut off the micro usb end and stripped the wire ends. Then I cut the 5 wire battery connector off of the old batter and carefully stripped the end of the wires.
Just a note of caution, the original battery says it is 3.7V with a 4.2V max charging voltage. By using a 5V power block you are going to be overpowering the board. I thought I might immediately blow the board or lead to overheating. So far it is not a problem. At this point I have used it for about 12 hours in total and a max of 4 hours a time. But I don't leave it plugged in unattended just in case.
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3. Then I assembled all of the pieces. The salvaged plug from the old battery has 5 wires. The two red are the positive terminal and the 2 black are the negative terminals. I have no idea what the blue is but that is unimportant for the project. Before soldering I tested the outputs from the USB cable. Red was positive. White was negative. The output was 4.8V. I soldered the red wire from the USB cable to the two red wires of the battery cable harness and then soldered the white wire from the usb cable to the two black wires of the harness. I debated whether or not to attach the blue wire to the ground... but in the end I just left it untouched and everything worked out fine. I then covered the solder points with hot glue so they would not short on anything. It was a little bit too tight for electrical tape.
4. I then plugged the wiring harness back into the tablet and attached the wire to the back of the case with some hot glue so it couldn't be accidentally ripped out. I didn't bother putting the cover on the back of the tablet. I just put on the case and cut a small section out so the cable could pass freely through the side. I then powered it up and installed the newest version of lineageOS and my apps.
Finished project:
Update:
Here is the link to my imgur album imgur.com/a/IAl7n

Just post links without. www or http.
Users can add them

Related

Build a charger for your Touch 3G

Hey guys. I have had a few PPCs in the past but the Jade is my first SmartPhone. I like to charge my PPCs in the car as I use them for navigating. I use a universal holder plus I dismantle one of these
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as they are easier to wiggle into any dashboard gaps you might have. They are pretty readily available on eBay, but note that they tend to have pretty low guage wire and aren't configured as twisted pairs so it is pretty hit and miss using it to transmit data but it seems to have no problem transmitting DC current. I have used this for very long trips using devices that pull about 1A of current and the cable doesn't warm up so I presume the resistance must be low enough for charging purposes.
Simply connect the other end to a USB Car Charger and you are nearly ready to go. Connecting it up this way will trigger charging but I suspect the device assumes it is connected to a PC as it turns the screen on when you connect it this way as apposed to the Wall Charger where the screen remains off. Careful using USB Chargers designed for other devices (Ipod etc) as they have configurations which may confuse / damage your device. I found this out the hard way when I connected my Jade to an Ipod USB Car Charger which caused all sorts of grief with an undetectable microSD card, the device refusing to turn off which although is now resolved, I am still uncertain whether I haven't caused some damage
So how do you convince the Jade to charge from your Car Charger like a Wall Charger? Well first thing to be aware of is that devices that implement USB charging have various methods of detecting a connection to a Wall Charger as apposed to a computer. As I have mentioned, the iPod (and my old iPaq) uses a resistor configuration between the Ground, 5V and Data Pins to tell the device that it is connected. Fortunately the Jade is much simpler. I have determined from searching the web plus attacking my Wall Charger with a multimeter that all that is required is that the Data Pins are bridged and that the Metal Socket Surround is connected to the Ground Pin (which it is anyway in most Generic Chargers). All that was involved in mine was opening the Charger, finding the middle data pins on the circuit board and dropping a solder bridge between them. Make sure you buy a good quality USB Car Charger that is easy to dismantle (mine was held together by screws) and can provide at least 1A.
Enjoy
My previous phone was a palm treo pro (htc panther), for which i bought a sprint car charger (micro usb). The first charger that was sent to me was heavily used, so i complained and got a new one. After i returned my treo, i got the jade and decided to sell the new charger and modify the old one (which was working fine, except the connector didnt connect properly) to charge the jade. So i opened it up and soldered the two (+ & -) wires to an old usb extension cable, so that now i have a car plug with and usb(-a) socket slightly standing out. When i connect my mini-usb cable for the jade only the charging led lights up.
What did you do with Data Wires? If you joined them together then you have achieved the same outcome as a solder bridge.
Nothing, i just cut them as short as i could. They dont connect to each other...the outer ground isnt connected, too...

USB connection physically dead; not charging or usb to pc connection

Hi everyone!! i'm desperate since i think i came with an expensive, unusable phone in my hands.
I read and searched thorough but there doesn't seem to be much clue on this, just one or two lost threads....
Someone care to drop a hint to help me ? ive lost all hopes.....
My x10a, after using it for , say, 1 month, rooted with latest xx23 firm (and used for a week or more , perfectly fine) ... some days ago, it stopped recognising USB port.
IT does not charge, with no existent charger or usb cord; it does not recognise usb connection of any kind, to any computer possible.
It lasted till last battery charge died, and no way to resucitate.
Afterwards, i came up with something: i bought a crappy, chinese battery-charger, drop my X10 battery overnight, and the phone then booted and worked fine.
So it is the USB connector/port/circuit. I even though of reflashing or re-rooting, but you can figure out that i can't do that anymore (no usb :S).
I can't give it back to SE or seller since it was brought overseas, and it even has some little marks on the corners (they'll just claim i dropped and so).
Any caritative soul please?
I opened following McKebapp guides, but didnt find nothing in particular.
Do you think i should risk in getting hands dirty and, say, re-solder an usb jack?
If not, i offer in sell all spare parts, almost new, or even sell it at a very good price, e.g. for bootloader experimenting....
Thanks !
Are you sure there is no gunk in the port or the cable's contact itself? Or even a bad cable?
Try this.
(1) Buy yourself a can of contact/electronics cleaner spray.
(2) Remove battery from phone to ensure you have no power going through there.
(3) Spray area clean and wait for it to dry.
Afterwards put battery back in, power up and plug in. See if that works
Yes, i tried all these... but nothing... Of course, i tried using up to 10 different usb cables, even bought new ones... but the strange thing is that nothing really happened, in order to mess or 'break' something on the phone...it was from one day to another... strange....
I wonder if the port is soldered to place on the board or is just spring contact based. I believe Bin4ry had his phone disassembled - you can ask him. If it is spring loaded contacts - there might be dirt underneath that needs to be cleaned up. If it is soldered - a joint might have broken and need resoldering.
mtechfan said:
Are you sure there is no gunk in the port or the cable's contact itself? Or even a bad cable?
Try this.
(1) Buy yourself a can of contact/electronics cleaner spray.
(2) Remove battery from phone to ensure you have no power going through there.
(3) Spray area clean and wait for it to dry.
Afterwards put battery back in, power up and plug in. See if that works
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMG... NEVER do that to a PCB with BGAs...
You'll shorten the connectors underneath the BGA soldered chips by fluid that stays there thanks to capillary action.
@rodrigofd:
Here you can see the USB connector itself, on the very left side:
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IF there is any mechanical failure, one or more of the five solder points in the middle of the connector is loosened.
But I can't believe it's a mechanical / solder problem.
Wiggle the USB charger cable a little, while having it plugged.
That way, you'll determine if there is any hairline crack.
If there is any, you can think of resolder it..
If you ask me, I'd say, some SMD fuse has blown up or there is an hairline crack between the PCB layers.
To determine that, you'll need a 3rd level schematics and some electric circuit reading knowledge.
If nothing helps:
Wait till there is a OTA Update that unroots the phone.
Then bring it to service..
The same thing happened to mine. While it was charging on my desk, and I was asleep.
I woke to find the phone on the floor but the USB cable was attached.
Using JuicePlotter (which had been running) it seemed that the phone had stopped charging around the time I had missed a call.
My detective skills allowed me to deduce that the phone was fine, but then when it rang - and started to vibrate - it rumbled its way off my desk. I believe it was not hitting the floor that damaged it - it's carpeted and not much of a drop - but the shock to the USB cable port as it swung itself off mydesk, effectively "hanging" itself.
I'm afraid I had no luck fixing it but it was only a week old so O2 replaced it immediately.
These days I ensure the phone is FIRMLY wedged somewhere when charging it.

DYI OTG USB cable (wow the acronyms) [no soldering required]

So, everyone knows that 3.1 is great for USB hosting things like mice, hard drives, flash drives, etc, etc, etc... And most people know that you can make a OTG cable out of an old data cord and some assorted parts, with soldering. My point in posting this is to show that there is no soldering needed, thus maybe some people who can't/don't want to solder can make an OTG cable. (Use electrical tape)
So, starting with a usb data, split open the micro-usb adapter head with a razor or knife, and keep peeling back the layers until all you have left is the trapezoidal male adapter and five prongs, a red, black, white, green and blank. There is a seam that is bisecting the plug, and it is the easiest way to cut it open. Work off the plastic cover and I would advise you to strip the first few inches of the actual cable aswell, then you can get to work.
You're going to need some kind of female full size usb plug to cannibalize, like of an old device with usb. (I tore one off a very old tower.) hold on to this for later.
Start by cutting the full size usb off the wire, and then cut about six inches of the data cable off and seperate the wires so that you can use one in the next step. Now strip the end of the main wire so that all four wires have about 1cm of exposed wire. take the usb port, and on the back, there will be four leads. the order is red, white, green, black. (When looking at the plug with the larger blank space below the smaller blank space in the plug.)
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Attach the wire that corresponds to each spot. Normally, this would be done with solder, but electrical tape works just as well. Simply use narrow, long strips of electrical tape to secure each wire to the leads, thus isolating each lead and making the system work. Don't be shy about using the tape, the more you use (reasonably), the more secure the system will be. This is a tedious process, but still it is easy enough to do.
Now for the part that tells the Xoom to be in host mode. Choose one wire from the six inches of wire you cut off, and strip both ends of it. strip the middle of the black wire (on your about to be OTG cable) around two inches from the micro usb head, and attach the second wire (that's six or so inches long) to it. Then, find the fifth, unused lead on the micro-usb assembly, and carefully attach the other end of the wire. This will take a bit of effort to orient it correctly, but once secure, again use strips of electrical tape to secure it and isolate it. When attaching the wires, use electrical tape cut into thin, long strips and work carefully to ensure that the wires you are attaching do not short out with any other contacts. This whole process may take a while.
If you can't locate the fifth port, then use the wire you are attaching to black to contact possible leads with a mouse attached, and if you find the right one, it will bring up a cursor.
As a final step, I wrapped mine up in duct table to make it stronger so that it will last and I can pack it along with me.
These are just my two cents I wanted to share, hopefully helping someone.
Final product:
short pin 1 to 5 and you'll damage your usb port. I guarantee the repair will easily exceed the $8 cost of an ebay otg cable.
Just be careful...
Sent from my Xoom using XDA Premium App
That's one sexy cable......hehe
wtf is that... smh
Cool pic....was that 19 dollars worth of duck tape? ...
I wish I had gone this route instead of buying one. Although I definitely would have used a little solder instead of over 9000 rolls of duct tape. I have to say yours looks epic, though.

Retrofit Wireless Charging Receiver in Nexus 5X?

I just saw the iFixit teardown
https://youtu.be/VYFbSpvSE-w
I retrofitted a Galaxy S5 and S4 to wireless charging with Qi receivers off of eBay:
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I know there is one for the G4 (since it's in their flip cover), but I was wondering if it is possible to work with an existing coil and wire it up to the Nexus 5X.
First, the cover pops off like a Galaxy S5 cover:
Here is the back cover and internals. Normally, the NFC covers the battery, but I am thinking it might be above the camera since there are connectors from cover to internals and would make sense for Android pay. So, what is the big shield on the right that covers the battery? (see question mark):
I think the battery posts are under the white piece of tape on the right - easy access for an NFC receiver to charge:
Worst case, the battery contacts are accessible under the midframe (10 screws):
So, do you think a retrofit of an existing Qi receiver would work? (the NFC part might be not used). The shield on the back over the battery might have to be removed, but I am not sure of it's purpose. Alternatively, anybody heard if any company is making a Qi receiver for the 5X? I'd buy the 5X over the 6P if I could get wireless charging.
I guarantee it's do-able. I don't know if the battery fuel gauge contains the logic to simply solder the coil output directly to the leads going to the battery but it shouldn't be a problem to solder to the VDC/GND pins/traces coming from the USB port. The only thing that concerns me, and I'm saying this w/out having looked at how USB c accomplishes it's reversibility, is that the pins for power aren't achiral (for lack of a better word) depending on the orientation of the plug. Would need to read up on that.
Just saw another thread opened shortly after this one was posted:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x/general/nexus-5x-qi-wireless-hack-mod-t3231461
Guess I had the right idea , but the video shows only the teardown, no connection.
Hi
etwashoo said:
Just saw another thread opened shortly after this one was posted:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x/general/nexus-5x-qi-wireless-hack-mod-t3231461
Guess I had the right idea , but the video shows only the teardown, no connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The NFC antenna is around the camera, you are correct on that. That foam material, I'm guessing that is what it is, is there to fill any gap between the battery and the back case to avoid the back being able to press down, and being soft it works with the varying differences in tolerance with the the battery thickness. It could even be to fill a recess that was suppose to be filled by a wireless charging coil.
Notice though the foam continues up to the site of the fingerprint reader. That should remain, it's job is to apply pressure on the contact pads of the flexible circuit board.
In the video where they show a mod, what they have done is used a QI coil which has it's own circuitry which outputs 5 volts, this connects by thin wires to the +5v and ground of the USB socket, and from there goes to the battery via the normal charging circuit, the phone doesn't know it is wireless charging, it just looks like a USB charger is attached. This direct connection may cause a problem when plugging in a normal USB charger as you end up with 5 volts in reverse going into the QI circuitry and charger, presumably though that circuity is protected with a diode so it doesn't matter.
You shouldn't connect anything directly to the battery terminal as this will bypass all the charging circuitry and would cause damage and likely trigger the batteries protection circuits and cut it dead.
How cleanly the back refits is another thing, their can't be that much space.
Regards
Phil

Nexus 4 stock ROM died.No red led.new battery.gets hot.Still dead.thoughts?

Sorry if this is in the wrong place,
XDA has helped me out many times in the past, I've searched but found no concrete answers with this though:
I'm a truck driver and often charge my N4 on the go, probably doesn't help the battery, which for the last few months has begun to discharge in around 6 hours. I nearly bought a new battery but put it off then the phone died.
I plugged it into a in car (truck) charger on the 12v socket whilst at 5% and the charger started smoking. Pulled it out and found the phone was off and unresponsive (no surprise) with no red LEDs or otherwise.
Each time I did the following i also tried the volume down and power key or volume up and power key combinations with and without the charging cable plugged in and whilst holding down the buttons as well:
I plugged it in at home from a mains charger, nothing,overnight,nothing.
Also tried from the computer USB port,still nothing.
Bought a new battery, no change.
Bought a wireless charger in case the USB port fried: seemed to get warm but that could be the charger induction coils. Still no power on.
"Charged" the new battery externally with a spliced USB cable, nothing
"Charged" the new battery externally with a power supply at 0.5 ah and battery voltage went from 3.45 to 3.70 still no power on.
Repeated the above at 2.0 ah and put the battery voltage up to a maximum 4.5v for 10 mins - this time the backlight came on and would stay on until long press of the power button.
Then the phone got REALLY hot. I mean to the point of "something feels like its about to thermal runaway" hot. Pulled the battery and eventually it cooled down. If I plug the battery in now it gets hot on the WiFi/Bluetooth module first then spreads out over the board. As the power management chip is on the other side of the board to the WiFi module my question is: has this phone gone to hell? Is the chip overheating because its now fried or because its not getting the right power? Am I completely stupid and should get a phone that I can look after (Nokia 3210 anyone?!)
I had a N4 before this that packed up on me and I think the PMIC may have been the problem as well,only ever seen one post about it though that went unanswered.
Thanks for any suggestions, not trying to waste anyone's time or space.
Peace
UPDATE:
I'm also trying to resurrect an older N4 that had RLOD but when I tried to replace the battery I prised the battery connector off the pcb...ye. Should stick to not touching anything and not moving from one place. I soldered a pair of leads on to the contacts this evening to see if I get anything from it and I got a solid red led so thought I'd hook up more jumpers to the battery and go from there, in so doing I ripped the track off the pcb...no pad left to solder too and I cant find where the track runs to patch into it anywhere else. So I took the pcb off the phone I first posted to see what's underneath, and look what I found:
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And also:
Judging by how much black blood these chips have bled and the exit wound on the PMIC I think its fair to say I have two useless unrecoverable phones, no hope of data recovery via JTAG and no working phone either. Hope this helps someone looking to see why their phone gets so hot and won't turn on!

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