Recently replaced the back glass on the S8 and it occurred to me that perhaps the magnetic pads that come with some magnet car mounts might fit under the glass.
I don't have any double-sided tape or the tools to try it to do it on my own. Was wondering if anyone has tried to do this. This JUST occurred to me, if not I would have tried it when I replaced the back panel :crying:
I know it will cause problems with wireless charging (feature I don't make use of) but would be nice to be able to use it once I get my new Dbrand Grip + Black Camo skin.
Anyone capable of trying this out, or has tried it and can provide feedback if there is enough room or not??
Attached is an image of the mount + plate + phone setup.
You can get a spigen liquid crystal case and put the metal between.
I have a spigen case, glued metal plate and the wireless charging still works. Any other thin case will do.
Related
Not sure whether this should be asked in accessories or not, but has anybody found a solution to the inadequate height of the rubber bump-stops on the O2 Exec? Their height isn't quite high enough to prevent the keys touching the screen's part of the clamshell so you end up with the keys getting rubbed smooth, and marks on the case where they touch.
At the moment, I've got a couple of bits of sticky rubber foot on preventing the touch, but they are moving around on the adhesive since there's so little of it.
What we could really do with is somebody with manufacturing facilities to create replacement bump-stops that are taller than the original ones, unless anybody else has a solution?
Cheers,
Steve.
Nobody got a solution to this?
Cheers,
Steve.
Haven't noticed the problem until you mentioned it but that's because I've been keeping my unit in a leather case -- which actually prevents it from closing comppletely (I'm using the piel frama case with the new clear plastic cover)
Not sure how I would cope with a case - how do you rotate the screen or put it into a Brodit holder without having to take it on and off all the time?
Cheers,
Steve.
You can rotate the screen by opening the flip cover of the case (ie: PielFrama; XAX case sold by expansys; and many others) Not too sure about your Brodit holder w/ a case though.
Surely there must be a good solution to this? I'd pay good money(well, some) for a set of bump stops that were tall enough to stop the keyboard touching. A bit of a design flaw, I guess...
Cheers,
Steve
what I do is, I sandwich a small cleaning cloth in between....this way, I have the cloth at all times to wipe the display when needed....and also protects the screen and the surroundings from touching the keypad! I use the cloth that came along with my screen protector....
have a great new year!
San
Hi
Has anyone got any ideas about where I can get replacement rubber bump stops (normal or extended height) for my Exec? One of mine has fallen off and got lost. I have tried contacting O2, but short of sending the device back for repair, which I don't want to do, they cannot help.
Thanks for any info.
Mark
I have same problem with my QTEK 9000. I have shiny dots obeside my Universal's screen which corresponds to where the keys are located on the keayboard. I believe this is a manufacturing defect, right?
Anybody was able to return their device because of these spots? I've had my device for 1 month and they're starting to irritate me.
StevePritchard said:
Not sure how I would cope with a case - how do you rotate the screen or put it into a Brodit holder without having to take it on and off all the time?
Cheers,
Steve.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I'll screw a belt clip to my brodit car mount. A simple unclip from my belt and then clip it onto the car mount. It'd need some sides on the mount to keep it from rotating due to gravity but I could see this working. Anyone have contacts with Brodit and a good case maker?
Tron_Of_Borg said:
StevePritchard said:
Not sure how I would cope with a case - how do you rotate the screen or put it into a Brodit holder without having to take it on and off all the time?
Cheers,
Steve.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe I'll screw a belt clip to my brodit car mount. A simple unclip from my belt and then clip it onto the car mount. It'd need some sides on the mount to keep it from rotating due to gravity but I could see this working. Anyone have contacts with Brodit and a good case maker?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I would rather find somebody who can manufacture taller rubber stops to replace the existing ones...
Cheers,
Steve.
Rubber Keyboard Bump Stops - possible solution
I've had a bit of a play with my Exec - my friend has lost one of his rubber bump-stops, so I prized one of mine out with a jewellers screw driver to find that they are just pushed in, and so it would be relatively easy to lose them, I think.
Using the same thin screwdriver, I applied super-glue to the recess into which the rubber stop sits, and then pushed the stop back in, but not all the way. Now I have a pair of stops that sit about 1-2mm proud of where they were originally, and they are glued in to prevent loss.
I'll try and remember to post back in a week or two to let you know how I get on with them.
Cheers,
Steve.
I sure hope that there isn't a seam down there where the rubber feet were! I'd hate to hear of a PCB glued to the underside of the keyboard cover.
You can see that there are internal components below the recess, but that's why I applied the superglue with the screwdriver around the inner edge of the recess, as opposed to just squirting it into the hole.
As long as you don't flood the hole with glue, none of it will drop through to the components beneath.
Cheers,
Steve.
I'm writing this up because someone else might like to benefit from my experiences with doing this repair.
Get your tools together: Multimeter, Torx T5, jeweler's Phillips (size 00), 15w soldering pencil, a bit of flux, some thin (I used 0.38mm 63/57% tin/lead) solder, and a clean place to work. You may want to grab a small ice cube tray or something similar with compartments to toss the screws in so you remember where they go. I highly suggest you get Kapton (3M) tape but you could use cellophane tape or a cut piece of packing tape. I had Kapton on hand so that's what I went with. You also need to either make sure the seller provides the double-stick tape gasket that binds the digitizer to the LCD shield or that you managed to salvage the one that secured the old digitizer. I was lucky and it came off the glass and stayed on the metal.
First of all, I've always had horrible problems with alignment with my Vario. The top of the screen was usually fine but the bottom would start drifting up. Cleaning the crap out of the edges under the bezel with a business card or doing the thumb rub was fine for that particular session but when I would sleep it and put it in my pocket, it was screwed up the next time. Dropping my Vario on the floor has managed to create a triangular dead zone that peaks at 1/2" from the bottom center and degrades towards the bottom left and right corners.
I bought a digitizer on Ebay from a seller in Hong Kong. It arrived about two weeks later and came with a T8 Torx and a case cracking tool. The T8 was thrown aside because it's obviously the wrong tool so I used my T5 and cracked the case. I won't get into disassembly/reassembly because that isn't the object of this and you can google the directions. Suffice it to say, when you reassemble the back half, ensure the volume slider on the case isn't going to snap the tab off of the volume switch on the board like I did the last time I disassembled it.
A note on this particular digitizer - It's NOT a HTC brand part. It's a generic part and doesn't have the glossy top sheet. I paid $20 shipped and for $20 it ain't bad. There is slightly less light transmitted and it's harder to read outdoors in direct sun but no big deal - it hasn't had to be realigned yet.
Now that you've removed the back cover, lifted out the board, unscrewed the LCD slider from the front cover, disassembled the two halves of the LCD slider, removed the screws that secure the top and bottom button pads to the LCD top frame and lifted out the LCD/button assembly and it's sitting in front of you - lets get to work!
First of all, you need to commit to this before you start making irreversible changes. If you've never soldered before, put this thing back together or find someone who has. You don't need a SMT station or the ability to solder 0605 components but since you're soldering on the plastic ribbon carrier, you need to be sure of your skills in order to not trash the LCD ribbon.
Now that you're ready to do this, examine the LCD panel and you will see that the digitizer is attached to the frame of the LCD panel. Use thin blade like a single edged razor to slide between the glass panel and the metal case and start lifting up the glass panel. If you're lucky, it'll want to stick to the metal case. As you lift the glass, poke in some tooth picks or similar to keep the glass from seating again. Start at a corner and work around going SLOWLY. I got to the bottom, rushed, and smashed the old part causing glass dust to go everywhere!. Try to avoid that.
Now that the old panel is off, cut the ribbon cable going from the base of the digitizer to the back of the LCD. Just slice it in half to get the old part out of the way.
At this point, align the new digitizer at the top of the frame first and then gently press it down. Ensure that ONLY the back's protective plastic sheet has been removed to avoid smudges and scratches. Now place the unit face down on something like a mousepad or similar surface.
There is a piece of Kapton tape across the digitizer ribbon and the backlight ribbon. Peel from the side with the digitizer FIRST! I started pulling from the backlight cable side and damn near pulled the backlight ribbon off!
GENTLY GENTLY GENTLY peel the old ribbon cable from the digitizer DOWN and ensure that it isn't ripping the pads away from the LCD cable. There may be a better way to do this but this method worked for me, I grabbed a corner with needle nose pliers and slowly pulled at a 45 degree angle. You want to pull the top which is the side soldered to the ribbon, not the bottom, which you cut earlier.
Plug that soldering pencil in, make sure it's set to 15w.
Now, with my el-cheapo digitizer, the ribbon from the front was slightly misaligned and I had to angle it over to the right. Otherwise if I went straight up it would've been misaligned about 2mm to the left. Ensure you have the traces parallel and directly on top of the existing ones and tape the bottom of the cable so it stays put. Another thing with my digitizer was the end required trimming. This made it easy to position when I had it bent back.
Now that the bottom is aligned and you don't have to mess with it, bend the cable back so that the copper traces are now facing up. The bend should be at the bottom 3rd of the exposed traces on the LCD cable. Make a nice sharp fold on the cable. Swab on a little bit of flux to make things easier to manage. Grab a popsicle stick or similar to push the new ribbon to the LCD ribbon, get the solder ready, and try to keep the heat on very shortly. You should only need 3 seconds of heat to get a decent solder joint because there is almost zero copper to heat up. Ensure the first joint is good by a quick tug of the cable and do the next three. After they are done, test with the meter going across to ensure the joint is good and from one side to each neighbor to make sure you have no shorts. Do the next three and then cut the extra ribbon cable off leaving maybe 1/4". Grab your tape and put a nice big piece across the back of the LCD covering both ribbon cables just like it was.
Now, reassemble your phone, turn it on, align the screen, and you ought to be good to go.
I don't take any responsibility for anything you might do to screw up your phone. These were my steps to fix my phone and they may not work for you and your phone.
As an aside, the new matte screen doesn't accumulate 'face gunk' quite like the old glossy one did. Also, the sensitivity is down a tiny bit and it needs more finger pressure to use Slide2Unlock. The digitizer also gets Newtonian Rings (google it) whereas the OEM one didn't. Also, there is a faint hum from the backlight (?) when it's on now that I didn't notice before.
So far, so good... The alignment on the bottom right corner is about 1.25mm above where the stylus point is but that might just be a problem with the screen itself. The alignment has stayed rock steady since I aligned it yesterday morning.
Hello all. Yes I am a noob to the forum, but not to small electronics and the dismantling of them. After getting everything set up on my machine necessary to Root my TF and side load the netflix app, I noticed my power button wasn't being as responsive as it should. Doing a quick google search I found that this was a common thing, even on TFs with stock firmware, so I took to dismantling the thing to figure out what is causing it.
I did a quick search to see if anyone has cracked the case open and found this thread. I didn't use a guitar pick, but rather a plastic and metal spuder set I had from repairing my mom's ipod touch (damn soldered batteries!).
Tools:
Tool Kit
Or
A T5 Torx bit
A spudger
#0 Phillips screwdriver.
Lock-Tite super glue gel (optional!)
1. Start by removing the two T5 torx bits from both sides of the charging/dock port
2. Use the plastic spudger or guitar pick and loose the seam around the entire case. If you look closely at the face, you will see the glass meet a black plastic rim and then the metal rim around that. What you are aiming to do is separate the black plastic from the glass. The plastic is glued to the metal so if you see adhesive separating, you are prying the wrong spot. There are various plastic tabs around the glass like a TV remote so using the plastic spuder is safer until you get some visible room to go in with the metal one.
3. Once you have the frame off, there are 4 #0 Phillips screws on the face, one at each corner, then 3 screws on the top and bottom of the frame (previously under the metal case
4. Removing all 4 face screws plus 6 rail screws will allow you to remove the back plastic. Now you can see everything
5. Bonus points for ASUS for giving us a battery that unplugs vs one that is soldered in (damn you apple). If you want some peace of mind, you can pop off the battery cable. I did not see any side effects from doing this (no data loss, etc).
6. On the side with the power and volume buttons, you will see a blue-tipped silver cable under a black tab. This black tab is what holds the ribbon down and lifts up like a toilet seat. It does not pull forward, it does not pop off (unless you broke it), but because it is plastic, be gentle. Once the tab is lifted, the silver cable will come out.
7. Unscrew the 3 #0 Phillip screws holding down the button board for easier access remove it.
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It doesn't matter whether you are having a volume issue or power button issue, so long as you know its hardware related. The way these buttons work is under constant pressure is "off" and removing that pressure turns it "on". So the metal tab pushes down on the plastic button, which pushes down on the switch. What is happening is over time, that metal tab gives way to less pressure on the daisy chain and the button stops working. The good news is, this metal tab is just held on via 'wings' around the soldered base. A razer knife is enough to gently lift the wings to pop the assembly apart for repairing. Given the construction of these switches, I wish ASUS just made the entire board available, but oh well.
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8. With the offending metal cap off, bend the middle thumb further down and back in to position and re-assemble the switch.
9. (Optional). I bent my tab further in to prevent me from having to re-do this operation several months from now, but doing so meant that ANY pressure on the button caused the metal cap to pop back off. That is really bad if the case is re-assembled. My solution was to swab some lock-tite super glue gel on the bottom wings and base of the metal cap and put it back on the switch. A very thin film is sufficient because it is a gel, it dries in seconds. WARNING> Once you reassemble the switch, keep pressure on the metal cap while you keep pressing the black button. If you don't, any glue leakage will lock that button in place.
Alright, I didn't make this fix, but I don't remember who did, but it was someone in a youtube comment. Before attempting this, are you sure your charger isn't just dirty? If it is dirty, it's preventing the rubber o-ring from getting a good seal. Take a piece of tape that won't leave a residue, and take off as much dirt as you can. If it still slips, try this fix. Okay, so the fix goes like this:
1. Turn your charging orb upside down. There should be a rubber ring on the bottom that prevents the orb from slipping, and it puts it at an angle. Remove it, but don't throw it out, and try to keep the adhesive intact.
2. There should be two small black tabs on the rubber ring. Cut these off with an exacto knife or a similar tool.
3. Turn the ring 180 degrees from where it was before, and carefully apply the ring, making sure there are no bends or bubbles in the ring.. This way the thicker end should be facing the front, makes the angle a bit less obtuse.
4. Give your nexus 4 a good wipe, so there's no dirt on that, and put it on your charger. It shouldn't slip anymore! I hope that this helped you. It did for me!
Hi.
Does anybody know if it is possible to remove the screen without damaging it?
I want to replace my "home" button and from what I saw in guides on the internet removing the screen is a must.
Unfortunately all the guides available out there show the removal of an already damaged screen .
There is no mention if you can remove a good one without damaging anything. And I am not talking about cracking it because it is glue. I am talking about the foil on the back . some portions of it remain glued to the assembly. What purporse does it serve?
Hi.
I did this just last week.
Unscrew motherboard and bottom board.
Remove motherboard
flip bottom board (its held by the back and menu button ribbon cables, dont force them)
get a heat gun, put it to whatever temp the internet suggests to not damage anything (I used a gas soldering iron, but melted a bit of plastic)
get a PLASTIC wedge tool, I used one of those car upholstery remover kits
probably need gloves
Apply heat to both sides to soften glue; using wedge tool, separate stylus sensor copper foil glued to the plastic frame
Tedious, but I've only stretched a bit the copper foil, did not tear it. After remount, the stylus works accurately.