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I play audio podcasts through car's aux in and just plug in the other end to my Focus's headphone jack. I have noticed that many times the podcast suddenly lowers volume to nearly inaudible levels and happens intermittently.
Once the problem shows up if I
- play songs, the volume level is fine
- stop and start playback of podcast, the problem persists.
- unplug and continue playback on Focus' speaker, the volume level is just fine
- unplug and plug it back in and the problem goes away.
- never have this problem when playing back over headphones (when in gym)
I have this problem only with Podcasts and don't get it at all with songs or videos.
Anyone else noticed this?
Audio output sucks on this phone, that is for sure. Major issues. Sorry to hear about yours.
Thresher said:
Audio output sucks on this phone, that is for sure. Major issues. Sorry to hear about yours.
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how so? i'm not having any problems at all.
Did any of you notice it's not your standard 35mm jack? The headphones that come with the phone are clearly deeper than the standard jack, and have two bands around it instead of the normal one.
I presume you are using standard cable to connect to car's aux jack....
I would check to see if there is a special samsung accessory to make the proprietary jack into a standard aux output?
Samsung are notorious for using this style of jack on their phones. The Galaxy line of android phones use the same jack.
dead_on_the_floor said:
Did any of you notice it's not your standard 35mm jack? The headphones that come with the phone are clearly deeper than the standard jack, and have two bands around it instead of the normal one.
I presume you are using standard cable to connect to car's aux jack....
I would check to see if there is a special samsung accessory to make the proprietary jack into a standard aux output?
Samsung are notorious for using this style of jack on their phones. The Galaxy line of android phones use the same jack.
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that is weird. i hook mine up to my car with the same jack i used for my iphone with no problems. in fact i am under the assumption the sound quality is actually better than with the iphone.
maybe this is a canada thing?
The plug is set up to use headsets with the microphone, and may not work well with some older stereo audio cables. However, I have used it with a podcast and found it to work quite well. I suggest trying another cable, cuz the Focus works fine.
The line level output of the 3.5mm jack is approx. 40% less than that of the iphone, or my HTC Tilt2. That is the issue I have and that others have commented on.
For instance, iphone plugged in playing on my car stereo, Panteras Cemetary Gates @ 320kbps MP3 is mind boggling loud at 50% volume on the car and 100% volume on the iphone. With the Focus the car stereo volume needs to be at 90% to be equal to the volume of the iphone.
Also, since the Focus needs to be at 100% and the car stereo nearly 100% you hear the phones whining, hissing and popping and every non-music portion.
Super lame.
There's some volume problems that I've noticed on the Focus, in that it's not consistent through playback sessions and such.
The iPhone 4 uses a Cirrus Logic codec with an integrated headphone amplifier, the Focus seems to use the built-in codec with it's headphone amplifier, which might not have the same amount of oomph.
I've measured a 7-8dB lower volume on the Focus when using a line-out cable to an Audio Precision test machine.
Thanks for reporting that! Great post.
Does anyone have this problem?
Ok, I have a mp3 car adaptor that I used with my Tilt and Tilt2 without any problems. Rich sound and bass. I plugged in my Focus (just got it last night) and music only comes out one speaker.
In my '95 M3, I run an Alpine HU (9814 IIRC) with a Line in Adaptor, I run very HD (thick) gold plated lines and a Splitter (all from Monoprice.com, one goes to my portable Sirius, other pops up by my center console sunglass cubby, split happens under the passeger seat) and I usually have my 120Gb Zune attached to it, but I tried with the Phone the other day and it worked great. Played a Tool concert and it sounded as good as the Zune. Like the Zune I set the volume to about 80%, still had plenty of head room for serious volume in the Alpine. (only way to listen to Tool is LOUD!) I do run an old school Pioneer Amp, Pioneer Kevlar Components, 2 JL Audio Stealth Boxes (each is an 8" Sub).
I want to escalate this issue but I need you guys to quickly reply on the MS forums so that it gets taken seriously. Please hit the "I need an answer too" button and give some sort of descriptive reply.
http://social.answers.microsoft.com...7/thread/9c92dad9-5e12-465d-a0fb-b9465179b436
I hope that his is a software side optimization since we are able to make the volume higher with the diagnostic codes.
I added my vote there.
Raptor550 said:
I have a second complaint. When I stick a headphone jack in the mic turns off, it probably is expecting an inline mic with the headphones. My problem is when I then go to pull out my headphones the phone doesn't notice and will continue to not hear. It takes two or three times reinserting and pulling out the headphones to remidy this. Is anyone else haveing this issue.
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Same problem here. But is worst, I connect the Focus to my Car Auxiliary jack to use it as a mega speaker, I mean, when someone calls I can hear them, but they can not hear me. The microphone is dead when I plug it in. Someone knows a fix for this?
jaraya13 said:
Same problem here. But is worst, I connect the Focus to my Car Auxiliary jack to use it as a mega speaker, I mean, when someone calls I can hear them, but they can not hear me. The microphone is dead when I plug it in. Someone knows a fix for this?
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Can't say that I have a fix for it, but it may be the connection your cable is making with the jack in the phone. I do the same thing, have the phone mounted in a jack around the same height as my head unit and people hear me fine when I speak during a call. I am currently using a cable from radioshack designed for recessed headphone jacks. Can't think of the brand off the top of my head however.
rswilson411 said:
Can't say that I have a fix for it, but it may be the connection your cable is making with the jack in the phone. I do the same thing, have the phone mounted in a jack around the same height as my head unit and people hear me fine when I speak during a call. I am currently using a cable from radioshack designed for recessed headphone jacks. Can't think of the brand off the top of my head however.
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Hi pal, thanks for the reply, but I couldn't understand very well your explanation. What is a recessed headphone jack? What is the head unit?
Thanks in advance!
I have not noticed this problem however the microphone shutting off is very annoying and funny since at&t says texting while driving is unsafe yet i have to unplug my phone while driving to turn on speaker and talk. they need to fix that ASAP
I use my phone as an audio player quite a bit, but I've recently noticed and issue and I was wondering if anyone else had similar problems or perhaps even overcome them. When I have my Vibrant plugged in to a power source and I plug in my headphones everything sounds fine, but if I'm plugged in to power and connect a line out cable (e.g. a male to male cable for connecting to a car stereo) I get a really nasty hiss as well as other audio artifacts. I have tried numerous combinations of different power and audio cables, headphones, and audio sinks (car stereo, home stereo, computer audio in, etc.), but the result is always consistent.
Power + AUX cable = bad audio
Power + Headphones = Good audio
AUX Cable - Power = Good Audio
Has anyone else seen/solved this with their phones?
I assume you are talking about car charger and aux out and the noise that increases as your speed increases. If that's what you are talking about I get it to. Something needs to be grounded. Exactly what I don't know. I would ask a car audio person. If I'm not mistaken all radio components ie. radio amp are grounded that's why you don't hear it. Let me make this clear nothing is broken. More like this configuration was not planned for. I'm thinking the cig lighter is not grounded by car maker. Hope this helped.
In the car audio world I seem to recall some issues with Pioneer units when an owner somehow accidentally made a bad connection. It seems that a tiny fusible link in the unit would blow, and a ground loop noise would get introduced into the system. The fix was to ground the RCA cable inputs to the stereo chassis.
Not a viable solution in this case. I also recognize this may have little direct bearing on the problem, but wonder if somehow a poor power/audio connector in the unit is/has caused the same sort of problem to rear it's ugly head.
Step 1 I think - Do you have another Aux cable to test that as a poor ground on it may have developed from just bending and twisting in normal use.
Go to radio shack and pick up a ground loop isolator. That will get rid of the feedback noise.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
I also have the same sound in my car. I remember way back when I thought I was a cool kid and rocked the big subwoofers in my trunk I had the same noise. Then I learned that you couldn't have the power cable running up to the battery and rca cables going to the head unit next to each other. You had to have them separated meaning one would have to go along driver side n the other along passenger side. I tried that and presto no more noise. Its the interference of electricity generated from the alternator. Hence, Faster the engine/ alternator goes, higher the noise pitch equalling more interferance due to the higher voltage/current running thru the power cable. Sorry for all that useless info lol!! Quick fix is don't have the power cable plugged in at the same time. The sound goes away, for me at least. Hope it works for you. Other than that I wouldn't really know how to fix it with a cell phone unless that isolator thingy that the other guy said to buy would work.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
You should tweet @supercurio
if anyone would know, he would
This has nothing to do with software. This is basically electrical interference in audio channel because the audio is not grounded and power plug from cigarette lighter USB is grounded. Get the isolator, they are usually less than $20, just make sure all the inputs/outputs are what's compatible with your setup.
Mine plugs into AUX port on the car, then i have a 3.5mm Y splitter, one end for phone/mp3 player the other for Sat radio.
Thanks for the tips guys; I think I'll pick up an isolator and give that a try. Unfortunately, the local Radio Shack only stocks isolators for RCA jacks, not 3.5mm, so I'll have to wait at least a few more days until it gets here.
The isolator finally showed up, and it worked perfectly. Thanks again for the advice.
Sweet, now get a flux capacitor and find a straight stretch of road. At 88 mph you'll be going at 88mph with a flux capacitor!
Friends obviously a LOT of Nexus 7 owners have complained about sound issues, from obviously defective units to the simple issue of volume being inadequate for use
My question is what is "normal" on this device? anyone know a db / sound-pressure at radius specification?
other than obvious noise through a speaker, how does anyone know if their unit is "normal" ?
cognus said:
Friends obviously a LOT of Nexus 7 owners have complained about sound issues, from obviously defective units to the simple issue of volume being inadequate for use
My question is what is "normal" on this device? anyone know a db / sound-pressure at radius specification?
other than obvious noise through a speaker, how does anyone know if their unit is "normal" ?
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My speaker is defective, and in need of going out for repair/replacement, but the volume seems like it will be fine for my needs once the rattle/vibration is fixed. It only happens at certain frequencies, so I can still get a solid sense of the output level.
Trying to determine the exact db at a specific distance isn't going to do you much good, because it will be based on either the loudest frequency, or 1khz. The 1khz rating is somewhat reasonable to use, but what if there's a massive spike there (and on small speakers, there generally is). Say it could hit 95-100db at 1khz, it still will likely only hit about 5db at 40hz. See where I'm going with this?
I don't know, I could grab my spl meter, and run a whole series of tests at 1 meter in a quasi-anechoic environment (though it's really cold outside here), if you're really that keen on finding out precise measurements of the frequency output over the 20-20 range. Seems a little overboard for a 7" tablet though. I would consider the volume more than adequate for listening to the news, or voip calls, but there isn't a tablet that exists where I would be happy with the sound of the speakers for music.
Of course, I'm kind of picky about these things.
From what I see in the boards, there are three types of view points on the output.
1. Plenty good for normal use.
2. Terribly low for music.
3. Flat out broken, so you can only turn it up half way (the second is my current situation).
Also, don't forget that the speaker is in the back, so you'll have to keep it turned around or bouncing straight off of a hard surface, to get the full output to your ears. Some cases may also significantly reduce the output as well.
more questions: if we presume/conclude "there is a volume problem even when the speakers are not defective", then two follow-on questions:
1. is it JUST speakers?
2. combo of lousy speakers and a problem with the DSP/firmware/software/etc.... ?
I think it is 2 but I'd love to hear a root cause on the whole issue.
with SOME music sources I can get through the speakers a little bit louder response, at FULL volume max'd - than I can with MX Player on a video with the Player set on Volume Boost [200%].
in the case of MX Player, its basically worthless through the speakers both from a dynamics standpoint [obvious...] and just volume unless you are in a stone-quiet area and are craning toward the device to hear.... and you have acutely good hearing.
Then, if one is unconcerned about warranty: anyone have suggestions on replacement speaker that perhaps would help?
cognus said:
more questions: if we presume/conclude "there is a volume problem even when the speakers are not defective", then two follow-on questions:
1. is it JUST speakers?
2. combo of lousy speakers and a problem with the DSP/firmware/software/etc.... ?
I think it is 2 but I'd love to hear a root cause on the whole issue.
with SOME music sources I can get through the speakers a little bit louder response, at FULL volume max'd - than I can with MX Player on a video with the Player set on Volume Boost [200%].
in the case of MX Player, its basically worthless through the speakers both from a dynamics standpoint [obvious...] and just volume unless you are in a stone-quiet area and are craning toward the device to hear.... and you have acutely good hearing.
Then, if one is unconcerned about warranty: anyone have suggestions on replacement speaker that perhaps would help?
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#2
When I connect the Nexus 7 to my car stereo inline, via the headphone output, I get mixed results. I generally have to crank the car stereo way up, which can cause voltage induction through the 1/8" to RCA connector, if I have the Nexus charging simultaneously.
Now granted, induction of this sort is not something that is a Nexus only problem, and has more to do with the quality of cable shielding. If I move the USB charger so that it doesn't line up with the headphone output wire, the problem is reduced.
However, the issue is more that the headphone output is somewhat inconsistent, so that means that some audio will require me to turn the stereo to a level where the inductance is moot, and sometimes I will have to turn up the stereo to the point where charging and listening to audio through the car stereo is just brutal. Of course, you weren't asking specifically about car audio, but it leads to my theory.
Now, here in lies why I think it's you're "#2". If it were purely hardware, there shouldn't be that great of a difference from the headphone jack, assuming relatively similar reference volumes from the source. So software would seem to be at play here, as well as hardware.
As far as the speakers go, I don't think you'll be able to replace the internals. They're a very awkward shape, which probably doesn't help, and there is very little room in there.
Your best bet would be to find out if there is an external speaker option which can easily work for tablets. I listened to an Ipad 4 last night, and it wasn't good either. I think you have to consider the size of these things. A speaker the size of your pinky nail, can only be asked to do so much. Trying to cram one the size of your thumbnail in there, won't do much more, and just wouldn't fit.
now we're talking real issues. thank you.
yes, compared to any of my other android or pc or apple devices this one is uniquely odd
all as you have noted. inconsistent, output device matters, etc.
I admit I'm skewed by the ipad Mini - if you get a chance, sample that in terms of speaker performance. I have not access to Ipad 4 in my shop.
in my case, there is no distortion that I can observe/detect with my ears - clear enough, but there's not much substance there, oddly except for notifications which are crystal clear at full volume, if not particularly loud [my ancient droid optimus is louder - obnoxiously so which is why I keep it on vibe].
bladebarrier said:
#2
When I connect the Nexus 7 to my car stereo inline, via the headphone output, I get mixed results. I generally have to crank the car stereo way up, which can cause voltage induction through the 1/8" to RCA connector, if I have the Nexus charging simultaneously.
Now granted, induction of this sort is not something that is a Nexus only problem, and has more to do with the quality of cable shielding. If I move the USB charger so that it doesn't line up with the headphone output wire, the problem is reduced.
However, the issue is more that the headphone output is somewhat inconsistent, so that means that some audio will require me to turn the stereo to a level where the inductance is moot, and sometimes I will have to turn up the stereo to the point where charging and listening to audio through the car stereo is just brutal. Of course, you weren't asking specifically about car audio, but it leads to my theory.
Now, here in lies why I think it's you're "#2". If it were purely hardware, there shouldn't be that great of a difference from the headphone jack, assuming relatively similar reference volumes from the source. So software would seem to be at play here, as well as hardware.
As far as the speakers go, I don't think you'll be able to replace the internals. They're a very awkward shape, which probably doesn't help, and there is very little room in there.
Your best bet would be to find out if there is an external speaker option which can easily work for tablets. I listened to an Ipad 4 last night, and it wasn't good either. I think you have to consider the size of these things. A speaker the size of your pinky nail, can only be asked to do so much. Trying to cram one the size of your thumbnail in there, won't do much more, and just wouldn't fit.
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My Samsung Note 4 has fairly loud "static" that sounds like it's picking up the internal electronic noise (also slight engine whine when the engine is running) coming through the headphone line when plugged into USB power in my car.
This only occurs when there is no audio playing. As soon as any audio plays, the static/whine goes away 100%.
I would normally first troubleshoot other things besides the Note 4, however, I've used various other mobile devices in my car and they all have had zero noise.
This is using the AUX input in a 2007 Honda Civic via the headphone jack and powering it via a 12v cigarette adapter to 2A USB plug.
Anyone else experience this? It just seems very strange that it only happens when there is no audio playing and the fact that no other devices I've tried have this issue. (Various IOS devices and a Nexus 7 don't exhibit this problem)
Thanks for any suggestions!
Update: Swapped USB power adapters, USB cables of various brands including the OEM samsung cable and various audio cables with no change.
I've found that the noise is there with just the power hooked up. (engine off) The "static" changes as I use the device, so it appears it's picking up the internal electronics "noise".
It just really makes me thing it's not a hardware issue if the "noise/static" goes away as soon as any audio plays. Then a second or so after the audio stops, the static kicks in again. Not certain if I should exchange the device.
Update 2: After more googling, I see that others have had this same problem and as silly as it sounds, someone made an "Aux Noise Filter" application. I tried it and it did cut maybe 95% of the noise.
The app shows a date of Aug. 2013. Just seems silly that the problem has been going on this long??
Hi all,
Anyone else had major issues with the Joying sound quality? I want to be able to disable the EQ as I believe this may be causing the issues I'm having.
Every time I go over volume 18, the speakers distort, cackle and pop. Here's what I've tried:
1. Turned Loud off, allows me to go to volume 21 but then after that they cackle
2. Messed around with EQ to no end and only if I drop bass to 0 can I put the volume louder but then music sounds terrible
3. Upgraded all speaker cables to oxygen free copper cables with high quality connectors to the speakers (that wasn't fun doing that)
4. Replaced stock speakers with Vibe Slick 5's at the rear and they also experience the same issue
5. Reset stereo to stock countless times
6. Tried a separate amplifier and when I turn the amp up even with the volume low on the head unit, the distortion is still there
Seems like the sound quality is pretty trash from this head unit. Before I totally trash this thing - is there anything else I can try that someone may know?
Has anyone tried a different single din head unit that they can recommend? Not interested in the motorised pumpkin one, it kept hitting my dashboard when the screen came out and the sound quality on that wasn't that much better.
Sorry - the unit is JY-UOS03P2 not the 3P4.
Thanks!
I received an FYT based unit this week that also has horrible sound for AM/FM stereo. Bluetooth seems to work fine, but radio sounds like it's coming through a tunnel.
Surprisingly AM/FM doesn't sound too bad on mine. Everything else sounds trash. Bluetooth is choppy, Spotify app on the head unit with the maximum quality setting sounds terrible.
You're getting clipping of the audio signal...The sound output of these units are horrible. I chased the same issue for quite a long time with my setup, a Joying double-din, JL Audio amp and Alpine speakers on all 4 doors. I had crazy ground noise, horrible distortion, and needed to set gains on my amps crazy high to get any output.
After a bunch of research, I figured out the issue. Most car stereos have RCA pre-outs that supply 4-6 volts to amplifier. I tested all 4 channels on my Joying unit with my multimeter and found a MAXIMUM output of .35 volts. I've heard of others seeing as low as .2 volts. Yea, absolute garbage. Your best bet is to install a 'line-driver', which will sit in between your stereo and amplifier and bump the line voltage up to something your amplifier can actually use. I found an older AudioControl (excellent company btw) unit on ebay for about $40 and recently installed it, bumping all input voltages to my 4-channel amp from .35 volts to 4 full volts. The sound difference is indescribable! I went from having tons of ground noise and completely flat sound, to crystal clear audio and tons of midbass.
just FYI - all voltages were obtained playing a pink noise test track at 3/4 full volume.
@JerseyKzA : It shouldn't be running 6V. Differential line level signals should be running 4V peaks. Single ended should be running 2V peaks. Every amplifier I've seen can either autodetect between differential and single ended, or has a switch or knob on the side to compensate. Most multimeters are NOT well suited to measure audio line level voltage -- they are made to measure CONSTANT peak voltage A/C signals, like high voltage wiring in your home. Analog line level will have amplitudes all over the place, and further, will be running at varying frequency, so it wouldn't surprise me to see a 0.35 volt reading on a 2V SE line, or even on a 4V differential.
Now this discussion of line level to amplifier is really not applicable to this question, which doesn't involve an external amplifier except briefly as a *test*. The one thing you did suggest that may be correct, however, is regarding *clipping*. Clipping is, of course, what you get when the signal amplitude *exceeds* the maximum -- which means that it isn't an insufficient voltage issue at all, rather it may be an *excessive* voltage problem. That describes analog clipping, but there is another form of clipping, which is *digital* clipping. Digital clipping is where the digital representation of a signal is amplified digitally, and portions of it exceed the maximum possible value.
Here is an example; an S16LE PCM sample must fit within the range of a signed 16 bit integer, which means −32,768 (-1 or -2 volt) to 32,767 (+1 or +2 volt). Imagine your current sample is 30,000, and you are trying to amplify it by a factor of 1.1. 1.1 * 30,000 = 33,000, which is greater than 32,768. You can't store that value in an S16, so it gets clipped down to 32,768.
So my guess is that the issue is probably due to digital clipping.