Hey all, I recently bought a P580 when I was out in the States with work (I'm back in the UK now). Whilst I was out there it was working fine and when I came back it was working fine when I originally tried it out - I didn't want to use it much as it was supposed to be a gift but wanted to make sure it was all set up and stuff. Second time I tried it, it won't power on. I've tried multiple USB cables, multiple wall plugs and tried charging it on my PC. Nothing seems to get it to power on.
Everytime I connect and disconnect it to my PC I get the audible tone that says a device was connected but that's it. Samsung's Smart switch doesn't recognise it either. Talking to their support, I've tried holding Power + Volume down + home button but that doesn't seem to do anything other than disconnect it from the PC and holding the Power button for more than a minute doesn't seem to do anything either.
I hadn't rooted the device, in fact I'd barely done anything other than install a couple of apps like Facebook, Snapchat and Youtube. Does anyone know what's going on with the device and is there anything I can do? I'd definitely prefer not to send it back to Samsung as they won't accept it in the UK support so I'd have to send it back to the US support.
Anyways, if anyone has any advice it would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you.
It's not a power but display issue. If you can hear the sound in the background or press volume up and down and you can hear the sound, it mostly has the loose LCD cable.
Search Youtube how to open your tablet, the tool you may need is a guitar pick.
Disconnect the battery first. You only need to disconnect and reconnect the LCD cable. The locking tab is at the top of the connector, lift it gently up 90 degree and be careful, otherwise you might break it. All connectors are unlocked by lifting up from the top 90 degree and they're very easy broken if you're not careful.
Here the LCD cable ( black ) is just slightly below the line on mainboard, you will have a black screen
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This one, the LCD cable is fully seated.
This connector is weakly hold the cable, you can pull the cable out while is in locking position. So you need put tapes over the connector and cable to hold it firmly, another one at the center of the battery to prevent if from moving. Battery should be back, otherwise you'll see nothing. Test by plugging your charger and press the HOME button, you should see the battery icon briefly if everything you're done correctly.
Beut said:
It's not a power but display issue. If you can hear the sound in the background or press volume up and down and you can hear the sound, it mostly has the loose LCD cable.
Search Youtube how to open your tablet, the tool you may need is a guitar pick.
Disconnect the battery first. You only need to disconnect and reconnect the LCD cable. The locking tab is at the top of the connector, lift it gently up 90 degree and be careful, otherwise you might break it. All connectors are unlocked by lifting up from the top 90 degree and they're very easy broken if you're not careful.
Here the LCD cable ( black ) is just slightly below the line on mainboard, you will have a black screen
This one, the LCD cable is fully seated.
This connector is weakly hold the cable, you can pull the cable out while is in locking position. So you need put tapes over the connector and cable to hold it firmly, another one at the center of the battery to prevent if from moving. Battery should be back, otherwise you'll see nothing. Test by plugging your charger and press the HOME button, you should see the battery icon briefly if everything you're done correctly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, thank you for the reply! I opened up my Tab and it was loose. Unfortunately being a complete beginner I think I f****d it up and ruined the cable - imgur dot com/a/kvP8Z ( I cant post links)
Am I going to have to replace that now as it still doesn't seem to be working.. :/
Other than that I can't see anything else that might be wrong with it whilst it's opened up??
Again, thanks for your help, it's MASSIVELY appreciated!
Sn0wtek said:
Hey, thank you for the reply! I opened up my Tab and it was loose. Unfortunately being a complete beginner I think I f****d it up and ruined the cable - imgur dot com/a/kvP8Z ( I cant post links)
Am I going to have to replace that now as it still doesn't seem to be working.. :/
Other than that I can't see anything else that might be wrong with it whilst it's opened up??
Again, thanks for your help, it's MASSIVELY appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Speaking from experience, you are in a tight spot now... if you did what I did. I had a Tab S and I opened it up to replace the charging port. Different pieces, but same steps as listed above. I broke the locking tab that holds the cable down. My only recourse was to replace the motherboard. Long story short, it was easier (and not much more expensive) to buy a new tablet. I know this isn't what you want to hear. Sorry about your luck.
HOWEVER, my problem was with supply, my S was old and I couldn't find a new motherboard and the website I found was "out of stock" of used ones priced high. Since you have a fairly new device, you might be able to find a replacement much easier.
Bdozier said:
Speaking from experience, you are in a tight spot now... if you did what I did. I had a Tab S and I opened it up to replace the charging port. Different pieces, but same steps as listed above. I broke the locking tab that holds the cable down. My only recourse was to replace the motherboard. Long story short, it was easier (and not much more expensive) to buy a new tablet. I know this isn't what you want to hear. Sorry about your luck.
HOWEVER, my problem was with supply, my S was old and I couldn't find a new motherboard and the website I found was "out of stock" of used ones priced high. Since you have a fairly new device, you might be able to find a replacement much easier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think that the locking mechanism is effected, but I scuffed the black LCD cable thing and it's now showing some of the bronze beneath it.. I thought that maybe that was causing it to not just work now that the cable's in the correct position? If it's the case that I've completely ruined the device and that I can't do anything with it, I don't know if I can justify getting a second one in such a short space of time. :/
Sn0wtek said:
I don't think that the locking mechanism is effected, but I scuffed the black LCD cable thing and it's now showing some of the bronze beneath it.. I thought that maybe that was causing it to not just work now that the cable's in the correct position? If it's the case that I've completely ruined the device and that I can't do anything with it, I don't know if I can justify getting a second one in such a short space of time. :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's good. You might be able to find a replacement cable or even just put a small piece of electrical tape over the scuffed segment... Depending on how deep the scuff is. There are a lot smarter people on this board that may be able to advise you better.
Just searched "galaxy tab a 10.1 lcd cable" and they are pretty inexpensive. Cheaper than a new tablet! About $2 USD.
Sn0wtek said:
I don't think that the locking mechanism is effected, but I scuffed the black LCD cable thing and it's now showing some of the bronze beneath it.. I thought that maybe that was causing it to not just work now that the cable's in the correct position? If it's the case that I've completely ruined the device and that I can't do anything with it, I don't know if I can justify getting a second one in such a short space of time. :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try to tape the LCD cable down to the mainboard, I don't know how bad you damaged it. This LCD cable is not easy to take out as the section connected to LCD is under the frame.
In order to take it out, you have to cut the frame. It's easier than heating up the whole assembly to remove the touchscreen and LCD from the frame. Newbie will most likely damage them in this process.
Beut said:
Try to tape the LCD cable down to the mainboard, I don't know how bad you damaged it. This LCD cable is not easy to take out as the section connected to LCD is under the frame.
In order to take it out, you have to cut the frame. It's easier than heating up the whole assembly to remove the touchscreen and LCD from the frame. Newbie will most likely damage them in this process.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See Sn0wtek... A much smarter person than me!
This is the proper way to secure LCD cable both SM-T580 and SM-P580, without tape the cable will loose again.
This is another bad design from Samsung, the motherboard has no screw to hold it at the bottom. It can wobble easily, that's reason you need tapes to hold the LCD cable to mainboard , prevent it from moving out of the connector.
Related
First, it'd like to thank
MikeChannon
for pointing out something important that narrowed down my testing.
Now, onto the problem Symptoms :
- D-Pad, IE and Email buttons cease to work
- Screen fades to white or comes back from standby as white
- Display is slight disaligned to the side, 1mm of left appears on right side.
- Randomness in all above symptoms.
Cause : It is the D-Pad connector.
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Yes, the D-Pad connection DOES cause the whitescreen. It's odd and illogical, but this is the conclusion I have reached.
ALL the previous guides, such as sliding plastic between the screen and casing, were randomly moving things inside.
By CHANCE ONLY it'd affect the D-Pad connector positively. That is why such solutions only worked for a few people temporarely.
SOLUTION :
You will need to try variants of the following things :
- Tightness of the screws over the connector
- Disconnecting the plug and reconnecting it very carefully
- Pressure over the bibbon between the D-Pad connector and the screen.
- Pressure over the D-Pad connector itself
- Tightness of the screws over the D-Pad PCD
- Tightness of the screws closing the plastic casing of this part of the phone
To stress-test the variants, I ran a D-Pad intensive game (Skyforce) for 30 minutes or until the symptoms came back.
I've played around with all those, giving mixed results, but definitively making a difference.
My final and best result was by putting a thin foam piece over the blue parts in the picture below. (Ignore the red circles, original picture is taken from a website)
The foam I used was the typical foam sheets you find in packaging for fragile electronics such as motherboards, hard drives, graphic cards etc. It has to be super thing in other to close the casing without buldges.
There isn't a specific thing you can do that will make your D-Pad be reliable and the whitescreen to go away. You'll have to do several tests, so I recommend you keep your phone disassembled while testing. The connector is VERY VERY SENSITIVE. That is why I cannot be any more precise in how to fix this. However, you NOW KNOW what causes the screen to freak out and buttons to stop working.
What I did for testing :
I have tested my phone while it was completely disassembled. Meaning I had the back of the monitor open, as seen in the picture above.
That way, I could fiddle around and instantly test the result.
I've fiddle with the cables, the screen pressure, everything. Nothing returned the screen from being white or becoming white.
Putting pressure D-Pad connector's ribbon or actual pin caused the screen to either turn on white, or fade to white. (Results often noticed only after going in & out of standby)
It also caused my D-Pad buttons and the top 2 buttons (IE & Email) to either work or not work.
Oh and this is my testing setup. Elastic band to hold the battery in place, everything else opened. However, I had to place/remove the backcover of the screen part of the phone to test as it affects the pressure put on the connector.
wow. I don't have balls to break apart my 8525 like that.
mutantblack said:
wow. I don't have balls to break apart my 8525 like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well this fix is for those who got a big enough problem and can't return it under warranty.
Anyhow, taking apart the TyTN is quite simple, and the thing is sturdy.
Only and only the D-Pad connector is tricky. The big ribbon connecting the two halfs of the phone is quite solid and never caused problems.
guys... what/where can i get the screw driver to open this mofo... it looks like a hex allen wrench but that doesnt work...
i have had this issue for months now and will try anything to fix it but i need to know where i can get this screw driver and fast!!!!
So it is a problem with the connector itself or cause by flex in the cable?
Also, where are you putty pressure on the connector? Are you saying if the screws are too tight this is a problem as well.
jwagman1 said:
guys... what/where can i get the screw driver to open this mofo... it looks like a hex allen wrench but that doesnt work...
i have had this issue for months now and will try anything to fix it but i need to know where i can get this screw driver and fast!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a TORX No6 screwdriver you need. Available online or from stores like Maplin who sell Phone screwdriver sets.
Check out links in the Wiki here or in my signature for internal pics, dismantling guides and to download the service manual (that also has a dismantling walkthrough)
Mike
Vasichko said:
So it is a problem with the connector itself or cause by flex in the cable?
Also, where are you putty pressure on the connector? Are you saying if the screws are too tight this is a problem as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems to me there may be a bit of trial and error regarding the fix. The service manual points out that the d-pad connector must be precisely inserted and absolutely level. So both under-tightening the screws or over-tightening could distort the connection. If you have it apart, take out and reconnect the push in connector several times This helps to ensure there is no oxidisation on the contacts.
(PS. this is not my fix so I cannot testify that it will work for you, though I believe it is on the right track, at least for some cases of this problem)
Mike
It's really intersting to know I'm not alone to have this issue ...
Do you have a site who describe how to open the Hermes ?
Thanks
mikechannon said:
It's a TORX No6 screwdriver you need. Available online or from stores like Maplin who sell Phone screwdriver sets.
Check out links in the Wiki here or in my signature for internal pics, dismantling guides and to download the service manual (that also has a dismantling walkthrough)
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THANK YOU!! amazon.com overnight!!! woooo
I tried this diy.
I didnt have a small enough phillips to remove the screws from the connector on the D-Pad.
Know where I can get one?
So I took all the connections, put some automotive electronic connection cleaner on a q-tip and cleaned all of the other ones.
I used some automotive light double sided adhesive that you can get at Auto Zone instead of form. I only used 1 side of the adhesive and didnt peal the other side off, if it doesnt work, its easily removeable, just wanted to make sure it stays in place when I re-assemble the phone.
I also added some in a place you didnt which I show in yellow on your photo.
So far so good after 5 minutes.
Mine PDA was also totally disassembled and atleast in my device the problem wasn't a faulty connector.. I had the front panel off and when I squeezed the Xilinx fpga-chip(black square on d-pad circuitboard) the the screen worked fine -when i took my fingers off it faded back to white. Earlier I also tried re-soldering the connector but it didnt work on my device.
marciton said:
It's really intersting to know I'm not alone to have this issue ...
Do you have a site who describe how to open the Hermes ?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dismantling guides and the service manual:
www.mikechannon.net
Mike
Hermes / TyTn / 8525 White Screen
Hey guy,
Nice write-up.
Good that someone has taken the time to experiment with different procedures.
I gave up on mine, after taking it apart time and time again.
-Reseating the cables and completely disassembling the unit was a tempereary fix, so I sold it on eBay for a parts / repair.
I just purchased another on eBay.
This time, instead of getting worked up about the white screen of death, I had purchased a warranty from www.squaretrade.com.
I am not an AT&T customer, so I unlocked the phone.
Neither AT&T or HTC can help when you dont have their service , or it's a branded phone.
Keep up the good work.
So far since my post before lunch today. No problems at all.
It used to white out when taking a picture with the camera, randomly when sliding out the keyboard, randomly when using the D-Pad.
No problems at all today after doing this fix posted here and adding the extra pad that I did.
im gonna have to try this when i get my new housing....anyone know where i can get a front camera?
Just giving another update. So far so good, no problems at all.
DPad no longer has the issue of not working here and there.
White screen issues appear to be gone.
Hopefully for good.
I will still post updates so you all can know the status.
Thx again for the right up. I will post some pics of the type of tape I used as well.
I have the rest of december left on my warranty. Do you guys think PPCtechs will know how to fix this? i don't want to send it to them and have it sent back with the same probs (like they did last time i sent it in to get my scroll wheel and camera lense repaired).
Miguel- said:
Mine PDA was also totally disassembled and atleast in my device the problem wasn't a faulty connector.. I had the front panel off and when I squeezed the Xilinx fpga-chip(black square on d-pad circuitboard) the the screen worked fine -when i took my fingers off it faded back to white. Earlier I also tried re-soldering the connector but it didnt work on my device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes indeed, re-aligning and reconnecting the connector works for many but will not work for all. There are, as you say instances where it is a chip connection that's at fault. There is little if anything you can do with that problem other than board replacement unless you have the correct tools - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=1724236&postcount=66
Mike
It looks to be a design flaw. I dropped my maybe 3ft on the carpet yesterday and got the white screen issue. I took apart and looked at the connector in question. Even with it screwed in you can unplug it half way. So I added some more padding.
I think part of the problem is that coming from the back of the LCD to the DPad board or whatever you call it, the angle of the ribbon cable declines.
Today the phone fell from the desk with the charger cable plugged into the phone. Now it won't charge/make a connection unless the USB cable is forced to plug in at a downward angle:
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If the plug is in any other way, the phone will not recognize it.
This is bloody annoying!!! I can't charge the phone anymore unless the cable is resting on something and I can no longer listen to music in my car (since the road vibrations cause the plug to move around).
So my questions are:
Is there a way to fix this by way of opening it up and soldering?
Is there a way to replace the USB port?
I'm tempted to just ghetto rig it by creating a "lift" within the port by way of a small amount of Gorilla Glue (or similar resin)...but that seems 'temporary' to me.
So here's to hoping that someone else here has had this issue (besides stupid ol me) and happens to have a wonderful solution for this issue. Also, if it matters, I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area. So if you know someone that does this kind of phone repair, please recommend them me. Thanks!
I'll assume you ruled out the actual cable?
Just by experience with other hardware, I'd say either something is bent/broke or the solder joints opened up (most likely this, and I hope it's not surface mount...). No idea how easy/hard it is to open up a HD2, as I've been lucky enough to not have to , but once that's done, should be easy enough to inspect the connector, depending on electronics skills.
i checked the phone with 3 different cables. same symptoms.
yeah...i'm guessing (hoping) it needs a resoldering job. i suppose i should start looking for pictures of the guts.
I have exactly this as well. No desire to open my HD2 up so I've just taken to lying my wallet down next to it when I charge, and laying the wire over it. It's really annoying to have to do, though.
Hello there. Sad to hear that you have got this problem. There is nothing you can do to fix it, yourself. I had this problem for about 2 months ago, when my HD2 suddenly had the same problem, and would only charge when the usb cable was forced in a definite way. The situation is, that the micro-usb "house", solved to the mainboard, is BROKEN from the soldering. Some of the pins, is broken off, and when you push the usb cable upwards, the pins will again make a connection with the mainboard, but when you slip, it will loose the connection...
I send mine in for a repair, but HTC said that it was my own fault. They would not make a repair, unless I paid for a new mainboard. You can see picture from the repair center:
Or see my other thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=814053.
So what can you do now?
You can open up your HD2, to see the broken traces from usb housing, following this guide: http://pocketnow.com/hardware-1/official-htc-hd2-disassembly-assembly-training-videos-leaked - But you will quickly realize that it's IMPOSSIBLE to solder the pins. It's VERY small, and it's not only metal pins, but also some kind of micro wires, 5 pieces, and you can't just solder them...
The disassemble of HD2 it's not that hard, you will though need to buy some tools.
To get your HD2 working again: Get a new main board. From where? Good question. I looked at ebay, and searched for a very loooong, for a mainboard, but it's impossible to buy one, unless you find a hd2 on ebay with a broken screen, and the mainboard is working, for some small amounts, and change the mainboard yourself.
I waited for about 1 month for a mainboard, but couldn't find one. So i simply bought a secondhand HD2, for a small amount..
I hope this helps to clear up some things. Just PM if you have some questions.
Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu... that's a downer.
I finally got this phone all perfect with the NAND Android.
Sigh... bummer that HTC had to make the USB housing irreplaceable.
That photo is helpful. That's out of my league. I've never soldered anything with that small of a footprint.
I'm looking for broken phones on eBay. Looks like they are going for 100 bones.
I think I'm going to try this one cell repair guy in town next week. Apparently he's a soldering virtuoso.
If that doesn't work, I guess I will have to replace the mainboard with one from eBay and hope that it doesn't have the same symptom I'm trying to rid of.
I will let you know if the repair guy has steady magic hands or not.
Truly truly frustrating...
Ah, surface mount =\ and the one in that pic actually lifted the pads themselves. If yours is anything like that pic, which I'll assume it's close, it looks like it should be possible to bridge the broken connection, but it will require a good quality temp-controlled soldering iron, fine tip, small wire, and excellent soldering skills. If the guy can hand-solder fine-pitch surface mount chips, this shouldn't be a problem.
The "fixed" connections would work, but wouldn't be 100% the strength of original. Some epoxy encompassing the connections and whole rear-end of the jack should strengthen it back up a bit.
So has anyone managed to fix this yet? Also, is there anything out there that can charge an extended battery without it having to be in the phone?
!!!SUCCESS!!!
SUCCESS!!!!*
the people i brought my phone too was able to fix it. it took a couple weeks for them to get their hands on a new USB port (apparently i destroyed it beyond repair). once they got a new one, it was soldered on.
*one slight niggle though: it takes 30 secs to transfer 100MB of data to the phone.
they "warned" me that they were able to to solder one of the pins, so data transfer may not be possible. so maybe the port is now acting as 'USB 1.0'. thankfully the only time i do data transfer is when i put MP3s and videos on it. and the occasional ROM/NAND flashing (which i don't do anymore since Cotulla/DFT's NAND Desire flash).
so besides that's little set back, i can charge/connect my phone without having to worry about losing connection to my computer or car.
but to be on the safe side, i no longer charge my phone via USB. i have purchased an external battery charger along with an extra battery. its been pretty sweet.
I've just see this post, for a couple of bucks, I think its' 70 or so u can get a charging mat, that will replace the usb charging feature. Just an idea.
Congrats! nick2k Good to know that it's doable. By the way it looks more like a rust on the image. What these guys had to say about the probable cause of that?
pk2_76 said:
u can get a charging mat
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pk2_76; Mats are using dongles, connected to a phone by the very same micro USB port. While it might reduce the number of plug/unplug events, which wearing off the connector, the dongle itself is quite bulky to keep on all the time, and also might interfere with the holsters and skins. I'm still hoping for a special back cover rumored to be available from HTC with a mat-like charging accessory.
Well I just got one of the mains chargers off ebay, waiting for it to arrive. My port's getting worse so I need it sooner rather than later. Word of warning I guess, treat the connection with care!
I have some debris under my screen cover and want to remove those, so want to find some instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble it. I'm not sure if I can do it myself without damaging the device. =(
Port covers are ordered already.
I've found some info myself here.
So I disassembled my and managed to assemble it back successfully =)
Do not try described below if you are not absolutely sure what you are doing, as it may damage your device and will void your warranty.
Here is my quick guide:
1. Remove rubber pads covering the screws on the back. Pay attention, that they are not same, two closer to the battery are not flat.
2. Remove the screws. My were really well tightened
3. Now you should remove the decorative rubber battery covers. The are fixed with a number of plastic latches on the upper (screen) side. Bottom side is placed on a number of forks (small cylinders), so the bottom side wont go, start with the top. I used a small screw driver and a hard-plastic card (like credit one). Be careful, as the latches can be easily broken, don push too hard.
4. Now you are good to go with the case itself. You can start from the left corner (closest to the camera). I used my fingers to pull up the top cover (with the glass) and inserted the card in the gap, then moving it vertically (perpendicular to the screen) unlocked the side latches. There are 4 of them if I recall right. Just shake the card and it's done. Then proceed to the right side th same way. It is harder to pull the cover there, but with a little help of a small screw driver it went quite well. After the right is unlocked, I moved the card horizontally around the corner of the screen, so it was still in the gap, and then vertically unlocked the bottom side latches. You are done.
5. Be careful when removing the screen as it is wired to the mb by 2 wires with small connectors and a flat cable on the bottom side (opposite to the battery side), also with a connector. Those connectors are easily unplugged and plugged back.
6. If you want to remove the screen, it is attached by 4 side screws to the metal frame (ye, Adam has quite tough metal frame inside). Though be careful, as the lcd is wired to the glass with a touchscreen flat cable, I did not try to disconnect it.
To assemble Adam, perform the actions in reverse:
1. Attach the lcd to the frame with the screws
2. Connect the screen cables to the mb
3. Put the screen on the back part and push those together firmly, to lock the latches
4. Insert the rubber covers. Mind the placement, though the won't fit wrongly. I used the card to push the latches to insert them.
5. Tighten the screws and place back the small rubber screws plugs, mind the correct position for the top two, as they are not symmetrical.
So what was my goal? I just wanted to remove debris from under the glass, those were very annoying. If you have those, you may try my way, but be sure you are doing it in dust free environment, or you'll just make things worse =) I used photo lens cleaning kit, to blow them away, but high pressure air can (those are sold to clean electronics), but it was about 25$ at my local store =(
As for the debris reason, I think it is not because of ports or other gaps in the case, it seems, that it comes from the lcd panel itself. Seems like panel manufacturer does not pay enough attention to dust-free conditions, so although Adam seems to be assembled in clean conditions, this debris falls from the gaps between the lcd frame and panel itself right to the gap between it and the glass. The screen and glass have some perimeter foam stripes, so the dust from outside can hardly get there.
All in all, I was impressed, how Adam is built, I would say it is of great quality, not perfect, but anyway. Comparable to Apple products, imo. It will surely survive quite a number of disassemble-assemble cycles.
And yes, there is enough room inside for modding, but I can't imagine what else would I've wanted to add to it. Maybe just external GPS antenna port or inner fixed sdhc card for extra space.
Feel free to ask, if you have any questions.
And do not try described above if you are not absolutely sure in what you are doing, as it may damage your device and will void your warranty.
I can recommend a glass-mount base of for example a navigation holder stefan
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strahl said:
I can recommend a glass-mount base
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good idea, will try it next time. This one was actually my first experience with any capacitive-touch device.
I don't remember where I heard this but I like the idea. Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus? I don't like some of the qquirkier things of the screen so. I would appreciate your opinion and thanx for this guide!
Sent from my Adam using Tapatalk
craby1925 said:
Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It totally depends on the lcd panel you wont to exchange current with. It is not totally impossible, I think, but it's certainly a challenge for a pro.
I've also performed some for-fun modding to my Adam, to make activity/power leds more visible and less 'disco'.
Used two pieces of optical cable to route light where it should go and not highlight everything around. Also had to cover the leds with adhesive tape and covered the gaps around the cable and case with sealant (from inside of course) for better exterior. Also, charging (violet) state is clearly visible now.
(Clickable for fullsize)
Also, you may notice a strange inner button in Adam(top of the first picture), but it does not seem to perform any action (at least on home screen, where I tried).
PsychodelEKS said:
Also, you may notice a strange inner button in Adam(top of the first picture), but it does not seem to perform any action (at least on home screen, where I tried).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe that this the "recovery button" as described in http://developer.download.nvidia.com/tegra/docs/harmony_hw_setup.pdf. I once managed to make my bootloader crash and with this button I was able to flash my Adam again (see http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=11769749&postcount=56).
stefan
strahl said:
this the "recovery button"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Luckyly for me it was not "wipe all" button =)
Cool! I opened it up and fixed my battery charging issue!
Thanks.
craby1925 said:
I don't remember where I heard this but I like the idea. Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus? I don't like some of the qquirkier things of the screen so. I would appreciate your opinion and thanx for this guide!
Sent from my Adam using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@craby did u ever happen to find out an alternate screen that goes well with the adam
i broke mine when trying to open, and my adam lies waste witout a screen
i would like to get hands on some sort of patch to allow me replace this screen with another keyboard or joystick ..
anyone who has such a patch already ?
Hey everyone,
My apologies if this has been covered I did several searches and didn't find anything.
Short story: I dropped my phone in the toilet.....walked into the bathroom and fumbled it. Pulled it out pretty quickly it had a soft and hard case on it that helped prevent some water form getting in. Now everything works except the power button. It ran out of battery before I could get home to charge it yesterday. Now with a broke power button I don't know how to turn it on.
- Dropped it in the water 2 days ago
-USB debug was not enabled
-I can get it into download mode (not sure if this is relevant)
Thank you for taking the time to read, if you could use anymore info let me know.
Have you tried the usual rice procedure? Leaving it in a bowl of dry rice for approx. a day. If you haven't, I'd wait for more insight by experienced gurus as I'm not totally sure, but I think there is some way to turn the device on from download mode, which you said you can access.
MillerTime33 said:
Short story: I dropped my phone in the toilet.....walked into the bathroom and fumbled it. Pulled it out pretty quickly it had a soft and hard case on it that helped prevent some water form getting in. Now everything works except the power button. It ran out of battery before I could get home to charge it yesterday. Now with a broke power button I don't know how to turn it on.
- Dropped it in the water 2 days ago
-USB debug was not enabled
-I can get it into download mode (not sure if this is relevant)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, at least there wasn't anything else in the toilet...
You could try disassembling the phone. You'll need a T5 TORX driver, a very small Phillips driver, and something thin and plastic to pull the case halves apart like a guitar pick or plastic knife. Go to ifixit.com and look up the tear-down guide.
It could be that the contacts for the power button board were corroded. Head to Radio Shack or whatever the equivalent is that you have wherever you are and pick up some Progold and Deoxit. Deoxit removes corrosion, Progold improves conductivity. If that doesn't work, you could try buying a new power button board off eBay; they're pretty cheap.
Planterz said:
Well, at least there wasn't anything else in the toilet...
You could try disassembling the phone. You'll need a T5 TORX driver, a very small Phillips driver, and something thin and plastic to pull the case halves apart like a guitar pick or plastic knife. Go to ifixit.com and look up the tear-down guide.
It could be that the contacts for the power button board were corroded. Head to Radio Shack or whatever the equivalent is that you have wherever you are and pick up some Progold and Deoxit. Deoxit removes corrosion, Progold improves conductivity. If that doesn't work, you could try buying a new power button board off eBay; they're pretty cheap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thank you guys for the replies. It seems like I will have to give your suggestion a try I already have the tools so it shouldn't be a big deal. Just to confirm there is no way to start it without the power button? Like I said I can get it into download mode by holding down the volume rocker when inserting a usb. Thanks again its much appreciated.
MillerTime33 said:
Just to confirm there is no way to start it without the power button? Like I said I can get it into download mode by holding down the volume rocker when inserting a usb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In the state your phone is in, I don't think so.
There are ways to turn the Nexus 4 on by means other than the power button. For example, there are apps that utilize the proximity sensor to unlock your phone by waving your hand in front of it. If you're rooted with the bootloader unlocked you can flash a custom kernel that enables various ways of waking the screen and sleeping it via touch (these aren't 100% though). If you're rooted, you can use Xposed modules to remap your buttons, and you could use the volume rocker instead of the power button.
But all those require your phone to at least be ON first, so they're not an option for you until you can actually get your power button working.
There is one possibility that didn't occur to me last night. A co-worker of mine is in practically the same situation as you (substitute your toilet for a mop bucket) with his Nexus 4. He uses the proximity sensor hand waving thing to wake/sleep his phone since his power button doesn't work. When Towelroot came out, I rooted it for him and installed a root rebooter so he can reboot if he needs to. But he's also able jam a thin knife through the case where the button is and short the contacts and turn it on/off that way.
So what you could try when you disassemble the phone is to try shorting the contacts with a piece of wire or paper clip. Take off the back cover, remove the plastic piece that covers the logic board (but don't remove/disconnect anything else. The phone should still operate (or would if your button wasn't damaged). If you're able to turn on your phone in this manner, then try cleaning the contacts and/or replacing the board as I mentioned earlier.
Good luck.
MillerTime33 said:
Hey everyone,
My apologies if this has been covered I did several searches and didn't find anything.
Short story: I dropped my phone in the toilet.....walked into the bathroom and fumbled it. Pulled it out pretty quickly it had a soft and hard case on it that helped prevent some water form getting in. Now everything works except the power button. It ran out of battery before I could get home to charge it yesterday. Now with a broke power button I don't know how to turn it on.
- Dropped it in the water 2 days ago
-USB debug was not enabled
-I can get it into download mode (not sure if this is relevant)
Thank you for taking the time to read, if you could use anymore info let me know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try Wugs Toolkit, It works even on power off.
Planterz said:
In the state your phone is in, I don't think so.
There are ways to turn the Nexus 4 on by means other than the power button. For example, there are apps that utilize the proximity sensor to unlock your phone by waving your hand in front of it. If you're rooted with the bootloader unlocked you can flash a custom kernel that enables various ways of waking the screen and sleeping it via touch (these aren't 100% though). If you're rooted, you can use Xposed modules to remap your buttons, and you could use the volume rocker instead of the power button.
But all those require your phone to at least be ON first, so they're not an option for you until you can actually get your power button working.
There is one possibility that didn't occur to me last night. A co-worker of mine is in practically the same situation as you (substitute your toilet for a mop bucket) with his Nexus 4. He uses the proximity sensor hand waving thing to wake/sleep his phone since his power button doesn't work. When Towelroot came out, I rooted it for him and installed a root rebooter so he can reboot if he needs to. But he's also able jam a thin knife through the case where the button is and short the contacts and turn it on/off that way.
So what you could try when you disassemble the phone is to try shorting the contacts with a piece of wire or paper clip. Take off the back cover, remove the plastic piece that covers the logic board (but don't remove/disconnect anything else. The phone should still operate (or would if your button wasn't damaged). If you're able to turn on your phone in this manner, then try cleaning the contacts and/or replacing the board as I mentioned earlier.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've opened it up but I'm having trouble determining the where the contacts are I need to short and haven't found a diagram online. Could you direct me to where they are located on the board? I attached a picture of the board.
Thanks
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MillerTime33 said:
I've opened it up but I'm having trouble determining the where the contacts are I need to short and haven't found a diagram online. Could you direct me to where they are located on the board? I attached a picture of the board.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I circled the contact points. I believe these points, when shorted, should complete the circuit and make the device think the power button is being pressed. Actually, it's not a short, you're just completing a circuit, but I can't think of the proper term for what it's doing.
EDIT: I tried it on mine, and completing a circuit between those 2 contacts definitely works to activate the power button. If it doesn't work on yours, then either the contacts are too corroded or you need a new power button board.
And if they are too corroded, you can use some rubbing alcohol to remove it!
Planterz said:
I circled the contact points. I believe these points, when shorted, should complete the circuit and make the device think the power button is being pressed. Actually, it's not a short, you're just completing a circuit, but I can't think of the proper term for what it's doing.
EDIT: I tried it on mine, and completing a circuit between those 2 contacts definitely works to activate the power button. If it doesn't work on yours, then either the contacts are too corroded or you need a new power button board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@MillerTime33
Any luck?
So I dropped my phone and broke the front glass. LCD works but not touch-screen so pretty much useless. I decided to take it apart first to see how hard it would be to replace the screen as I could see screens can be bought from AliExpress for about 65 USD or 99 USD from elephone.hk.
Took some pictures along the way as I couldn't find any images of the internals of this phone online so this might help someone trying to replace their screen or just thinking about it.
1) Back cover - this comes off rather easily once you get something between the edge and start nudging the clips to open. Notice that the whole back cover is glued a bit to the battery so even after getting all the edges open I still had to use some force to remove it from the battery. PS: The side-buttons are attached to the cover also so try not to hurt those while removing the back.
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2) Next I removed the bottom half cover to see if I could access the screen cables from there. Notice that the black ribbon that goes to the screen is the home button LED light and cannot be removed without unsoldering it!
3) I took off the top cover and unhooked the battery.
4) The battery - It's glued to the metal frame using 2 strips of glue and it took me 10 minutes to get it out safely without damaging it (it's soft so you can probably easily make it explode in your hands).
5) Took me some thinking but I removed the whole main board. The bottom side is glued and I had to break some black "paper" to get it out.
6) Screen - After getting the main board out I had enough room to force the screen out. Notice that the screen is glued from the top and bottom but sides are not glued. Some sensor cable from the front panel is glued to the camera's LED lights. The speaker was a bit hard to take out and I managed to break one of the soldered cables for that :S The bottom of the screen was glued on extremely hard.
Some notes: You definitely need to remove the battery as the screen cable runs underneath it. I'm not certain you need to remove the main board as it seemed you might be able to replace the front screen without taking that off. There's a lot of glued stuff in there so you better have good tools to pull things apart without breaking it.
So finally after having taken it apart enough and asserting a few things I decided that replacing the whole screen and re-building it will take too much time. I just saw a deal for $199 with wireless charger included. So having a choice of $65 new screen + 4 weeks of waiting and then spending 2 hours trying to replace it or buying a new one for $199 and getting a wireless charger + extra USB-C cable - I just ordered a new one. Plus I get to keep the old phone parts around for spares in case any of the side-buttons or front-speaker etc break
Just a note - my phone was in the official flip-cover when falling and got hit into the bottom right front corner and the cracks went all over the screen. I'm rather certain now that the phone's front glass panel is rather fragile and while having the silicone enclosure would've saved it in my case it's still a bit easy to break.
PS: Just wanted to add that I was actually genuinely impressed by the overall quality of the phone and Elephone in general for providing decent updates and support and assembly quality was good so while the glass panel is fragile I still decided to order a new phone from them!
Hi, I also had to replace the screen, so I tore down the phone before I ordered the new screen to see if I could do it safely. And I did (I didn't have to remove the main board, I just removed the screws and left it loose so I could remove the flat cable from the top. The problem is the screen took a couple of weeks to arrive and now I don't remember where a couple of small metal pieces that looks like contacts go. One is golden and the other is silver, both very small, looks like they fit in something similar to the antenna connector. Do you have any ideas of where are they supposed to go?
llucax said:
Hi, I also had to replace the screen, so I tore down the phone before I ordered the new screen to see if I could do it safely. And I did (I didn't have to remove the main board, I just removed the screws and left it loose so I could remove the flat cable from the top. The problem is the screen took a couple of weeks to arrive and now I don't remember where a couple of small metal pieces that looks like contacts go. One is golden and the other is silver, both very small, looks like they fit in something similar to the antenna connector. Do you have any ideas of where are they supposed to go?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I cannot remember exactly either, but I think there were two of them.
One of them was visible on this pic in the top right area, above the cable that goes under the LED lights.
The other one I remember had a similar purpose, but since I packed the parts away already I cannot remember where and it would take too much time to re-piece it together to figure it out.
(Exactly the reason why I decided to go for the new one instead of replacing the screen).
xataxxx said:
I cannot remember exactly either, but I think there were two of them.
One of them was visible on this pic in the top right area, above the cable that goes under the LED lights.
The other one I remember had a similar purpose, but since I packed the parts away already I cannot remember where and it would take too much time to re-piece it together to figure it out.
(Exactly the reason why I decided to go for the new one instead of replacing the screen).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I finally figured it out. Yes, I saw the one in the pic, and the other one goes in the bottom part, on the right, just below the top right screw to hold the plastic bottom part. I finally managed to assemble everything back with the new screen and it works perfectly. Thanks!
i also have to change my display screen hopefully new arrives soon and the change is not to complicated
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irDOXh1QoKE
And last few minutes of this showing how to remove the back cover
Hi,
I'm thinking of taking my back panel off for the purposes of fixing the GPS connections as advised here: http://bbs.elephone.hk/thread-11201-1-3.html#.V9SPfygrKM9
Now the op talks about aligning the springs with the backpanel connectors. Can someone take whichever picture is above and highlight which springs they mean?
i broke my screen on this phone, i have horizontal lines appearing on it, have tried three new screen and all display the same, i think there is a problem with mainboard after it was dropped so i am going to buy a new mainboard, anyone else experience this issue, when i wake it up its fine but after a second the lines come up, im pretty sure the screens are fine but something comes up and makes the lines
I've got this phone. I kept it in a safe place disassembled and at that time it was working, some days ago when reassembling the device, it shows no sign of life whatsoever, nor power up or charging battery; I thought the battery was completely dead, bought a brand new one but same situation... Do you think is possible that some kind of oxydation prevents the phone charging and power up? If connected to PC via usb cable, it shows Mediatek Preloader, so I think the phone is not dead.... Thank you all for answering, regards.