Guys, please, I need ur help on screen replacement on p7000, was able to unscrew, remove d upper and lower panels, but was unable to get rid of the screen from the frame, in order not to damage d frame I left it, and ran here for help d procedure to get the screen out of the frame, thanks in advance
Sent from my Elephone P7000 using Tapatalk
Sorry to read it so late. Did you solve the problem? I succesfully replaced a broken screen weeks ago. I had to use an hair dryer to melt the LCD adesive, then succesfully removed the broken LCD. Did you try this?
Alrighty dude, here's the trick.
Get everything, and I mean EVERYTHING out of the frame except for the screen. All that is holding the screen to the frame is just some glue. Get a razor blade, or a plastic razor, or even a guitar pick, if you can wedge it in between the glass and the frame, and start CAREFULLY prying the screen out. Don't worry about damaging the screen, it's an OGS, you'll have to replace it all anyway.
A little heat never hurt either. Anything from a hair dryer to a bernz-o-matic ought to do the trick. If you're brave, you can try pushing the screen out from the back of the frame, but I'd be EXTREMELY careful, because the frame is pathetically malleable.
Related
Hey there everyone. Not too sure what this thread will turn into, maybe a tip thread. I made a few mistakes when I took my hd2 apart that maybe can prevent any headache for the next person.
I broke my glass on my HD2 a while ago, and I finally worked enough to buy the replacement glass ($60 or something). Because it was my first time doing a glass replacement on a new phone, I took my time. After working my way threw the phone, i was to the point of lifting the lcd off the broken glass. Here was my first mistake. when i got the glue warm, (used a hair dryer) the glue cooled too quickly while i was pulling the tool threw the gunk. at the very corner, the took was glued in between the lcd and glass, and i was dumb enough to pull the tool out.
Needless to say the tool took the lcd off with it. But in the process, Cracking the lower corner of the lcd. I tell you all this story to suggest a new way of removing the glue off the lcd. Now I was worried about using anything too sharp on the lcd. But i found, when taking the rest of the glue off, you can use a razor blade and slide it back and forth on the glass to cut it away, without hitting the lcd. But you still want to get this very warm. (work in a warm location to prevent fast cooling)
Well, I hope my expensive mistake helps any one who is about to tear into their phones, and make it a little bit more ... relaxed ... experience. take your time.
OK, so I managed to break my A 70 LCD be rolling over it asleep on the sofa. Woe and despair. Anyway, problem now solved so I thought I'd do a quick guide.
I got the LCD replacement on Ebay - there are a bunch of sellers fpr about 85US including shipping - this compares to the Archos fix price of about 190.
All you need toolwise is a T5 screwdriver and disassemble the unit as per the Utube teardown
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aL7wTCBZ5m4&feature=player_embedded
The tricky part of the process - and hence this post - is taking the screen out of the casing and seperating the digitizer from the screen. The item you need for this is a hairdryer. After seperating the unit, you remove the screen and digitiser from the casing by going around the casing on the outside rim of the screen with the hairdryer and gently prise it out.
Then the only hassly part - the digitiser (The digitiser is the capacitive screen component) about 1mm thick and well glued to the LCD casing using soft sticky glue. Seperating this was a worry as whatever about the LCD, break the digitizer and you wont find one on ebay so it's Archos or the bin. Again, I went around with the hairdryer, carefully using a razor blade to seperate the two making sure the blade cut away the glue from the lcd casing without touching the digitizer glass.
That done (and the stress over) simply placed the digitizer (which has little markings all around for placement - didnt need any recallibration) and reassembled the unit.
The only thing was that it seemed to take a while for the touchscreen to work right, and I thought I had borked this somehow but just seemed to get working normally.
Anyway, hope this is useful to someone.
machatta said:
OK, so I managed to break my A 70 LCD be rolling over it asleep on the sofa. Woe and despair. Anyway, problem now solved so I thought I'd do a quick guide.
I got the LCD replacement on Ebay - there are a bunch of sellers fpr about 85US including shipping - this compares to the Archos fix price of about 190.
All you need toolwise is a T5 screwdriver and disassemble the unit as per the Utube teardown
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aL7wTCBZ5m4&feature=player_embedded
The tricky part of the process - and hence this post - is taking the screen out of the casing and seperating the digitizer from the screen. The item you need for this is a hairdryer. After seperating the unit, you remove the screen and digitiser from the casing by going around the casing on the outside rim of the screen with the hairdryer and gently prise it out.
Then the only hassly part - the digitiser (The digitiser is the capacitive screen component) about 1mm thick and well glued to the LCD casing using soft sticky glue. Seperating this was a worry as whatever about the LCD, break the digitizer and you wont find one on ebay so it's Archos or the bin. Again, I went around with the hairdryer, carefully using a razor blade to seperate the two making sure the blade cut away the glue from the lcd casing without touching the digitizer glass.
That done (and the stress over) simply placed the digitizer (which has little markings all around for placement - didnt need any recallibration) and reassembled the unit.
The only thing was that it seemed to take a while for the touchscreen to work right, and I thought I had borked this somehow but just seemed to get working normally.
Anyway, hope this is useful to someone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't actually to Remove the digitizer from the case, a simpler method is to separate the LCD from the digitizer by unclip the lcd metal clips around it, you will be able to just remove the LCD it self (back light etc can be put back) do the same with the new LCD, unclip those metal, remove the metal frame and put the new lcd into the old metal frame (which is glue to the digitizer and the digitizer is glue to the case).
Yikes, I was worried about doing something like that but in taking apart the old lcd I see it's easy as pie.
Hope I won't need to do this again though.
Ok so let me get this right. Archos does not cover accidental screen damage? and they would charge me $190 for repair?
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
If you crash your car, do you get e free repair?
Dammn! I Broke mine yesterday, guess this guide will be useful for me after all...
Super easy to change the LCD on the 70, just take the time and do it slowly, for lcd order it's about $70USD :
http://item.taobao.com/auction/item_detail.htm?item_num_id=9004146795
Poo tried this and now the device won't turn back on
The Screen of my Archos stopped registering my touches. It displays everything fine though.
I opened it to see if any cables loosened, which was not the case. I put it back together and it works not worse but also not better than before. If anyone could give me a hint which other parts I could check for this issue, this would be very appreciated.
I smashed the screen on my Tab a few weeks back. While I didn't take a video of the replacement, here are some notes and tips on my experience:
If the glass is cracked but you can still see the display fine (i.e. no rainbow or black ink spills) then it is just your digitizer that is broken. Your top priority at this point is to not break the LCD because the digitizer is relatively cheap (~$35 shipped from China, $60 from the US). This also goes for the picture being fine but the touch not working at all.
Buy a replacement digitizer. I got mine from ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/270938561127 ).
Gather tools:
A clean towel to use for your work area to prevent scratches and scuffs
A little plastic prying tool (likely to come with your ebay order)
A thin and sharp utility knife/razor
A three prong screwdriver. The seller I used sent a few other screwdrivers but not the three prong one. I used one I got from a Nintendo DS repair a while back.
A heat gun will make this a lot easier. I guess a hair blow-dryer might work in a pinch.
I did not see any good videos for the disassembly. The one I watched ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thTt6G27NV8 ) really screwed me over because it didn't show removing two screws first.
Here are my written steps for replacement:
Use a needle to pry out the two caps on either side of the USB charging port
Use the three prong screwdriver to remove those two screws
Insert the pry on the bottom middle between the plastic frame and the glass. Push down firmly so it wedges in up to the L shape.
Slide the pry along from the middle to either end and around the corner. You will feel the frame pop away from the innards.
Continue working the bottom half of the frame apart until you can insert tweezers or something else under the unit and lift it up and out of the frame.
Be careful to lift the bottom half then pull it out away from the top. Otherwise, you will crack the audio port which extends from the unit and fits into the hole in the top of the frame.
Set aside the frame and place the unit on a clean towel. If you have a broken screen, you are going to be dealing with lots of tiny slivers of broken glass.
On the circuitry side of the unit, you will see three big flat ribbon cables. The middle one is the digitizer. Use tweezers or the pry to *gently* lift up the tan colored plastic locking hinge on the far side (opposite the cable). It will pop up and the cable will easily slide out. Go very slow and carefully here. Don't mess with the black plastic because it will chip right off.
Now comes the painful part. Removing the old digitizer. Take a cigarette break if you need one. Maybe a Valium. Basically, almost all of the black trim part of the glass is thick strong glue binding it to the unit. You need to separate this glue to be able to peel the glass digitizer away.
Hold the unit upright with one hand and use the heat gun to loosen up the glue holding the digitizer to the unit. Run it along one edge for less than a minute until the glass is a little too hot to touch.
Quickly insert the razor as close to the glass as you can and about 6 centimeters in. Slide it along the side that you heated. Don't make any prying motions or you'll just crack the glass more.
Continue with the remaining three edges. Heat then separate. You may not make much progress the first time around, but by the second time, you should see the glass starting to peel away. It took me about 5 to 10 minutes per edge and it is grueling work.
Once you can safely peel the entire glass digitizer away from the unit, use the razor to lift up and peel off any of the flat black tape/glue that was left behind. Most of the unit where the glue goes is gray. On the sides there are two parts where you see black plastic. It is okay to leave glue residue as long as it isn't bunched up.
Vacuum up any stray glass slivers. Make sure you set aside tools screws and screw-hole-plugs before vacuuming.
Installing the new digitizer
Use an LCD spray and cleaning cloth to clean your LCD. Don't leave any dust or fingerprints as it will look bad once everything is put back together.
Remove the back covering of your replacement digitizer revealing the glue. Obviously, try not to touch the glue.
Align the digitizer above the unit, make sure the camera hole is on the correct side. Very slowly lower it down and try to have it perfectly in alignment when it touches. You will be able to nudge it a tiny bit, but the glue is strong and if you get it crooked, you are going to have to try to quickly lift it back up without cracking your new digitizer.
Once you have it in place, remove the front protective film and free the new cable. Wrap the cable around to the back and very gently insert it between the contacts then push the locking hinge down.
Testing and reassembly
Power it on and see if it works. Just push down the little metal bump closest to the edge where the power button would be on the frame.
When happy with the test, turn it off again and hold the unit above the frame.
Check the orientation then insert the top part first to fit the audio port into the hole. Line up the rest and then push down on all the edges to snap it into place.
Breathe a deep sigh of relief.
Appreciate the time you put into this, hopefully I never end up in a similar situation.
Could have used some more return key though lol
Sent from my Ceramic White LTE Galaxy Note using XDA Premium App
Wish I would have read this first. I broke the housing by the 2 bottom screws. Dayum! I haven't touched it since. Supposed to get the digitizer Friday. Wish me luck!
Its really easy to replace the digitiser on WiFi version. Use Stanley knife and hair dryer to loosen it off and remove middle flex cable. Videos on youtube
Sent from my GT-P7510 using xda app-developers app
Any picture of these 2 screws cause i do not see it on a p4 here.
I still have one here with a cracked glass but it all still works even the touch screen.
But i do not see the screw so a pic would be nice
Opuske said:
Any picture of these 2 screws cause i do not see it on a p4 here.
I still have one here with a cracked glass but it all still works even the touch screen.
But i do not see the screw so a pic would be nice
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are covered by plugs on either side of the charge port. Gotta pry the plugs out first.
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
Ok so i am on a mission this weekend then to try and do that then
Opuske said:
Ok so i am on a mission this weekend then to try and do that then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One tip: be really careful not to touch the inside surface of the glass. I ended up with a fingerprint on the inside that drives me nuts every time I clean the screen. Wear gloves if you've got them.
Otherwise it was no sweat. I used this as a guide but with a hair dryer instead of a heat gun.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUI2gDQbdDY&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
Quick question
I really found this post very helpful, but I do have one question. What if when I was trying to pry the tab up to pull out the digitizer, I cracked the black plactic on the other side. Would this cause the new digitizer not to work when I finished replacing everything and put it back together?
Best tutorial on the web (much better than those godawful youtube videos).
Thank you!
Did u get an answer??? I need to
AylaAtreides said:
I really found this post very helpful, but I do have one question. What if when I was trying to pry the tab up to pull out the digitizer, I cracked the black plactic on the other side. Would this cause the new digitizer not to work when I finished replacing everything and put it back together?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you get an answer??? I did the same thing...
DEinspanjer said:
I smashed the screen on my Tab a few weeks back. While I didn't take a video of the replacement, here are some notes and tips on my experience:
[*]If the glass is cracked but you can still see the display fine (i.e. no rainbow or black ink spills) then it is just your digitizer that is broken. Your top priority at this point is to not break the LCD because the digitizer is relatively cheap (~$35 shipped from China, $60 from the US). This also goes for the picture being fine but the touch not working at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just when I thought I knew the difference between the LCD and the digitizer I read your post. You said if the glass is cracked but you can see the display just fine the digitizer is broken. When you say "see the display fine" I presume when the device is on you can see whatever it should be showing? Correct me if I am wrong. Silly me I would have thought if the glass was cracked you need the LCD. Are the glass, LCD and digitizer 3 separate parts?
Anyway on my Note 10.1 2014 edition the display suddenly went black while I was using it. All indications are the device is working because I hear notifications if I sent email to one of the accounts registered on the device. Given this limited info which part(s) do I need. The glass is pristine in that there are no cracks or scratches. Do I need the digitizer, lcd or both? How can I determine what I need for sure?
Thanks in advance,
~metafizik
The digitizer is the touch sensitive glass, the LCD is under that and it makes the pictures.
If you crack or damage the LCD, you will frequently see something that looks like an ink spill or a rainbow pattern.
If you crack or damage the digitizer, you can still see pictures fine, but some or all of it might no longer respond to touch.
In your case, it sounds like your LCD is not working, but unfortunately it is hard to say whether that is the only part that stopped working since it wasn't due to damage to the screen.
DEinspanjer said:
The digitizer is the touch sensitive glass, the LCD is under that and it makes the pictures.
In your case, it sounds like your LCD is not working, but unfortunately it is hard to say whether that is the only part that stopped working since it wasn't due to damage to the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the information. I agree there is no telling what might have caused the problem especially given some other problems that proceeded this. I had recently replaced the battery and even with the new one it was draining way too quickly. I concluded it might be the ROM I was running had become corrupted because Google services was using the lions share of the battery instead of the screen. I downloaded and installed a factory Lolipop image and it was running fine for about half a day when the wife started playing around with live wallpapers we had never tried when it went black.
At this point I am reluctant to spend $ replacing the Lcd given it might be something else altogether.
Thanks again,
~metafizik
Accepting offers on my 32GB Note 10.1 2014 edition. As described above the display has gone dark but system is otherwise working fine. Includes very nice MoKo Wireless Bluetooth Keyboard Cover Case and the tablet's battery is new.
Hi all,
Just tried replacing the glass screen on my S4 because it was cracked. Heated up the screen and used a thin wire to separate the digitizer from the glass.
The glass came away ok but unfortunately a long rectangular copper strip which usually sits just above the screen came away with the glass. Now the screen won't turn on.
The screen itself I assume is undamaged, but this copper strip must provide power or ground to the screen. I've tried holding the copper strip in place but the screen still won't come on.
Can anyone with some expertise on the matter please shed some light on how fixable this is? Would be a shame to have to replace the whole screen.
Thanks in advance for your help
may be the touch panel is destroyed!! who did fix it? was it a pro?!
sirwiggus said:
Hi all,
Just tried replacing the glass screen on my S4 because it was cracked. Heated up the screen and used a thin wire to separate the digitizer from the glass.
The glass came away ok but unfortunately a long rectangular copper strip which usually sits just above the screen came away with the glass. Now the screen won't turn on.
The screen itself I assume is undamaged, but this copper strip must provide power or ground to the screen. I've tried holding the copper strip in place but the screen still won't come on.
Can anyone with some expertise on the matter please shed some light on how fixable this is? Would be a shame to have to replace the whole screen.
Thanks in advance for your help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately you tore the digitizer flex cable so your going to have to purchase a whole new top half full digitizer glass and frame (easiest) for your phone. You have to be very careful not to tear off this piece during removal. Sorry for the bad news
Sent from my GT-I9505G using Tapatalk 2
Hi guys,
Can anyone point me to a good adhesive to be used on an S5 G900F? Since it's water resistant, are they still using the usual adhesive sticker on the edges or are they using some kind of liquid sealant ? I had my screen replaced and right after I got it back I put it under the water and it held pretty well. Unfortunately after a couple of weeks I noticed the top part of the screen is starting to loose a bit and occasionally I have to press the screen a little bit. I'm not putting it under water until I fix it.
What can I but to replace the existing adhesive ?
Thanks.